# DIY Bi-Amp setup for front 3 channels



## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

I am going to give building an amp a try now. I just ordered a Bang & Olufsen ICEpower 50ASX2 SE 2x50W Class D Amplifier, and a B&O ICEpower 125ASX2 amplifier module. This will give me enough power to power 2 of my new speakers (bi-amped). Iam still looking for one more of each to finish off the amp, and an enclosure. I am hoping this turns out to be pretty easy to build. I need to still find the banana jacks, power connector, and a power button for this too. Am I forgetting anything? I will have to make up the wires for wiring too.


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## Lumen (May 17, 2014)

Still tinkering, eh Ron?! From this pic I found of the module's back panel, it seems this particular version also has a balanced input and a switch to toggle between AES/EBU and RCA input connections.








And here's the front panel. Nice enclosure, eh?


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## AudiocRaver (Jun 6, 2012)

Lumen said:


> Still tinkering, eh Ron?! From this pic I found of the module's back panel, it seems this particular version also has a balanced input and a switch to toggle between AES/EBU and RCA input connections.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Louie, your links did not work for me.

How about power, is that covered? Those amp modules can be very capable, looking forward to your writeup.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

AudiocRaver said:


> Louie, your links did not work for me.
> 
> How about power, is that covered? Those amp modules can be very capable, looking forward to your writeup.


I think we have power covered...the 50wpc ones will be for the horns, and the 125wpc ones will be for the bass bins. I am going to try and use a Elan 16 channel case for my amp build. I figure this way it will at least have all the holes on the back for me to do all 14 channels as IcePower modules. I am thinking another 4 IcePower 125wpc modules should complete all 14 channels required, and have zero fan noise. I will post up pics as i progress. I have never built anything like this so I will have a friend assisting me if i run into problems. I am hoping that by buying the modules it is more of an assembly of parts than one where i am soldering pieces on a circuit board.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Lumen said:


> Still tinkering, eh Ron?! From this pic I found of the module's back panel, it seems this particular version also has a balanced input and a switch to toggle between AES/EBU and RCA input connections.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I wish your links worked... I am a member over there too. 

I will have to see if I have enough room for 28 XLR connections too.
Strange they work when quoted though.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

I found 2 more amp modules, so now i have enough to do the front 3 channels bi-amped. I will try to arrange the modules so i can run all the channels in the Elan case (if I get it).


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## AudiocRaver (Jun 6, 2012)

I meant AC power, but I am sure you thought of that, too.

Here is a thought, kinda along the perfectionistic way of looking at things.

A spec that is hard to find these days for most power amps is crosstalk, or channel separation, which tends to decrease with frequency and can impact SS&I at high (10 kHz) frequencies.

Best way to make it not an issue would be to do vertical bi-amping, where the two channels of an amp are used to power the two drivers of the same speaker. Don't know how that would mess up your plans and don't know how much audible difference it would make. Just a thought.


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## Lumen (May 17, 2014)

Link corrected :R


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## Lumen (May 17, 2014)

AudiocRaver said:


> I meant AC power, but I am sure you thought of that, too.


ICEpower's feature sheet shows these modules are fully protected. I wonder if their recovery mechanism includes visual feedback. Are there any indicators that can alert the user to fault conditions? I imagine a non-functioning channel/driver would be a giveaway in a 2-way configuration, but might take awhile to detect depending on program material and playback volume. I'd prefer something a little more obvious like a power indicator changing from green to red, or better yet - flashing. Connecting the modules to a master fuse/breaker is beyond my area of expertise, and has questionable benefits for such well-protected devices. Still, I'd be more comfortable with an indication something is amiss - if for no other reason than to diagnose a problem.



AudiocRaver said:


> Here is a thought, kinda along the perfectionistic way of looking at things.
> 
> A spec that is hard to find these days for most power amps is crosstalk, or channel separation, which tends to decrease with frequency and can impact SS&I at high (10 kHz) frequencies.
> 
> Best way to make it not an issue would be to do vertical bi-amping, where the two channels of an amp are used to power the two drivers of the same speaker. Don't know how that would mess up your plans and don't know how much audible difference it would make. Just a thought.


In my quest to obtain more performance from my stereo system, I crossed a path where I obsessed over channel separation. Long story short, I wound up with one monoblock per channel. No direct A/B comparison could be made - how convenient say the objectivists! - because stereo amp "A" was converted to mono. But I knew in my heart that the system sounded more like music than a assemblage of mechanical parts making musical sounds. Or so I believed. So if you believe, then you too can experience the difference low crosstalk can make (I jest, of course).


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

AudiocRaver said:


> I meant AC power, but I am sure you thought of that, too.
> 
> Here is a thought, kinda along the perfectionistic way of looking at things.
> 
> ...


Not sure if i follow... We are using the 50w version for the horns, and the 125w for the woofers in the same cabinet. Not sure is the way you say to do it, and reduce noise, but we don't need as much power for the horns, and we will have to level control the horns.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

What would happen if I took 2 2x4 MiniDSPs, and mounted them inside the case...would I still need level controls or could I just use the gain in the 2x4s?


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Lumen said:


> Still tinkering, eh Ron?! From this pic I found of the module's back panel, it seems this particular version also has a balanced input and a switch to toggle between AES/EBU and RCA input connections.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Have you seen these...there are a bunch of really creative ones. I even saw one made from a cigar box!http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/87913-class-d-amp-photo-gallery-12.html


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## Lumen (May 17, 2014)

Guess what, Ron? You made my day. Here's an amp in a bottle from Post #752.
miniDSP land is unfamiliar to me, so maybe Wayne can answer your gain question if he's still watching.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Lumen said:


> Guess what, Ron? You made my day. Here's an amp in a bottle from Post #752.
> miniDSP land is unfamiliar to me, so maybe Wayne can answer your gain question if he's still watching.


Wasn't that a great mini amp! If I don't win the amp I am looking to use as a donor, I am thinking of making a amp case out of Aluminum, and Ironwood. I really like some of the designs I saw where the amps were made out of wood/plexi/aluminum.


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## AudiocRaver (Jun 6, 2012)

I BELIEVE the answer is - yes and no.

Both miniDSP 2x4 units will have gain which can be controlled by a remote, and both can be programmed to respond to the same remote, BUT, there is no gain readout (without USB connection to a computer) and keeping the two gains in sync while being changed by the remote is not something I have ried and I am guessing there might be circumstances where they might get out of sync. That would NOT be so good.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

AudiocRaver said:


> I BELIEVE the answer is - yes and no.
> 
> Both miniDSP 2x4 units will have gain which can be controlled by a remote, and both can be programmed to respond to the same remote, BUT, there is no gain readout (without USB connection to a computer) and keeping the two gains in sync while being changed by the remote is not something I have ried and I am guessing there might be circumstances where they might get out of sync. That would NOT be so good.


What i meant was to use the gain control via Windows, save it, unplug the USB, and let it go. Since I don't use a remote the settings should stay, correct?


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## AudiocRaver (Jun 6, 2012)

ellisr63 said:


> What i meant was to use the gain control via Windows, save it, unplug the USB, and let it go. Since I don't use a remote the settings should stay, correct?


Yes, that should work just fine. Once set, that gain should be retained, even through power off/on cycles.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

AudiocRaver said:


> Yes, that should work just fine. Once set, that gain should be retained, even through power off/on cycles.


I guess I need to order 2 kits then since they don't make a 3x6.


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## AudiocRaver (Jun 6, 2012)

the 4x10 HD is pretty hot:smile:


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

4x10 is much more expensive though, plus I only need 6 channels total...2x4 is 2 channels more than I need too. I am going to order the kit version, and remove the RCAs.

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## AudiocRaver (Jun 6, 2012)

We're going to want pictures.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

AudiocRaver said:


> We're going to want pictures.


I will take some pictures as I progress on this new project. Right now all I have are a bunch of amp modules for the front 3 channels. I plan on getting 4 more amp modules next week, and also i need to order 2 MiniDSP 2x4s for the amp. I have a Elan 16 channel amp arriving next week that doesn't work. If we can fix it i will sell it, but if not it will be the enclosure for my amp build (I got a real good deal on this, but my friend thinks it is better to fix it and sell it for a little profit. I hope to be moving forward on this over the next 2 weeks, and I am hoping it will be a pretty quick build.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Some questions...
Would it be advantageous to add a large cap for each amp Module? 

What would be the advantage?

What would the disadvantage be?

What should I use for wiring up the MINIDSP to the amp internally? Do I just take a RCAs, and cut it in half, solder the ends to the amp module, and the rear panel?

Would it be worth it to use a DIY Kimber Cable style braided wires for all the internal wiring?

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## Lumen (May 17, 2014)

Okay, I'll take a stab at this based on some research, but I think we need an expert to chime in :R. Hope I don't belabor the obvious!



ellisr63 said:


> Some questions...
> Would it be advantageous to add a large cap for each amp Module?
> What would be the advantage?
> What would the disadvantage be?


On first read, this reminded me of the caps car-audio enthusiasts add to support current draw from a vehicle's electrical system. With powerful or multiple amps, loud passages can cause enough draw to temporarily drop system voltage (ref this article). But outboard caps supply extra current up to their rated capacity. This is an advantage which smooths out current peaks in response to musical demands, keeping it dynamic instead of flat or distorted. A disadvantage is the risk for electrical shock. So what about the electricity in your home? Do we have enough info to calculate total current draw under max operating power (I=P/V)? 



ellisr63 said:


> Would it be worth it to use a DIY Kimber Cable style braided wires for all the internal wiring?


It would be cost-effective if you use reasonable quality wire as in this DIY braided cable project. The 3-wire braiding provides for field cancellation and low inductance, while the wire gauge provides for low capacitance. And according to this article, Unshielded Twisted Pair (UTP) cable has advantages that include improved data transmission in EMC-rich environments and ease of installation. Those class-D amps have a whole lotta switchin' goin' on! But on the other hand, they're completely EMI shielded to provide a CE and FCC pre-approved design (Ref: pg.3 of ICEpower manual). It wouldn't hurt to wire everything internally with UTP, but I think it's unnecessary. What if you selectively wire only the sensitive signals with UTP? The trick then becomes how to identify them.


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## AudiocRaver (Jun 6, 2012)

ellisr63 said:


> Some questions...
> Would it be advantageous to add a large cap for each amp Module?
> 
> What would be the advantage?


I assume you mean a bypass capacitor on the power supply line for the amplifier module. That is a standard practice in electronic design, and generally a good idea, but it is always best to follow manufacturer's application note. What do they recommend? If you want to look like a pro about it, and it fits with the mfr guidelines, double-bypass each power supply line with a large electrolytic and with a ceramic disc 0.01 uF. The ceramic disk handles the very-high-frequency AC current needs for the module.



> What would the disadvantage be?


Nuclear holocaust, but the possibility is exceptionally small.



> What should I use for wiring up the MINIDSP to the amp internally? Do I just take a RCAs, and cut it in half, solder the ends to the amp module, and the rear panel?


yes



> Would it be worth it to use a DIY Kimber Cable style braided wires for all the internal wiring?


no


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Would this be good for my MINIDSP hookup inside the Amp?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Panel-F...acf018f&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=6&sd=152348684392

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## AudiocRaver (Jun 6, 2012)

That looks like an extension, what you need should have a type B end to plug into the miniDSP.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Thanks, I will keep looking. I liked the idea of it being a circle. Do they make adapters to a type b connector?

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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Would this be the right connector... https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-1-Feet-Panel-Mount-Cable/dp/B002M8VBIS

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## AudiocRaver (Jun 6, 2012)

Perfect.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

I have the amp donor gutted now, and it looks like we can reuse the RCA jacks, after desoldering them from the circuit board.

Question...where do I find standoffs for mounting the boards, or do I have to make my own?

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## Lumen (May 17, 2014)

Standoff means "insulator" to me, so here are a wide variety to choose from (actually, more than you ever wanted to know about).


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

I now have these on the way:

Breakout box:
7 SpeakOn 4 pole male mounting plates
3 SpeakOn 8 pole male mounting plates
1 1u rack mount plate with 8 holes for the Speakon plates
1 1u rack mount plate for the front plate which will get 2 holes punched for the 8 pole SpeakOn plates

Still need to get...

Amp:
standoffs
12v power supply for 2 MiniDSP 2x4s which will be internally mounted

The plan right now is to use the Elan front faceplate with Cumaru wood for the side panels, perforated stainless steel for the bottom, and plexi for the top of the amp case. The back plate will have 16 RCAs for the input, 2 8 pole SpeakOn plates, AC hookup, and power switch. The 8 pole SpeakOn plates will feed all of the channels to the breakout box...which will then split them up into one pair of speakers per connector. This should make it easier to wire for bi-amping the front 3 channels and also allows me to run wire to speakers in pairs (L+R, or L front + L rear). It def should clean up the back of the amp. The breakout box will also have a plexi top, Cumaru sides, and perferated bottom. I will post up pics as soon as I get all the pieces in, and arranged in the case.


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## opell (Feb 18, 2017)

Good luck, I'm looking forward to you finished project. I hope I can start a project one of these days.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Would this be good for powering 2 MiniDSP 2x4s inside the amp?

http://www.mpja.com/download/40watt.pdf


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## AudiocRaver (Jun 6, 2012)

ellisr63 said:


> Would this be good for powering 2 MiniDSP 2x4s inside the amp?
> 
> http://www.mpja.com/download/40watt.pdf


Looks like it should work. Each 2x4 needs 0.8 A current, and the power supply will give 8 A for the two units. Plenty of available current (overkill, but no harm) with good regulation and low noise. If it's cheap, go for it.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

AudiocRaver said:


> Looks like it should work. Each 2x4 needs 0.8 A current, and the power supply will give 8 A for the two units. Plenty of available current (overkill, but no harm) with good regulation and low noise. If it's cheap, go for it.


I found a smaller one for almost the same amount...

http://www.mpja.com/12-Volt-Power-Supply-35A-40W-Switching-Hengfu/productinfo/16001+PS


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## AudiocRaver (Jun 6, 2012)

Should work just fine.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

I also ordered all the RCA jacks, (8) Speakon 4pole, and (8) SpeakOn 8 pole jacks, the metal standoffs, and the PS listed above. Hopefully all the parts will arrive next week so i can start laying these out. I also have submitted a design to Markertek for a rear panel that would have all the puched holes, and labeled (we will see if they will do a one off, and how expensive they are).


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Parts are arriving daily for the build now. I own have all 8 8 pole Speakon cable ends, and 2 my addon box panels. The addon panels I have will be 4 Speakon 8 pole inputs, and 8 4 pole outputs. I am also working on having the rear panel El for the amp too.


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## Lumen (May 17, 2014)

Lot of activity there! Can hardly wait to find out your impressions when it's all said and done. BTW, it's a small point but did you ever decide on the amp's internal wiring? At one point you were considering a Kimber type braid, IIRC.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Lumen said:


> Lot of activity there! Can hardly wait to find out your impressions when it's all said and done. BTW, it's a small point but did you ever decide on the internal wiring? At one point you were considering a Kimber type braid, IIRC.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have the wiring kit for the modules...not sure if I will go that route as the wires might be too short. I will be using my MonoPrice 12 gauge wiring for all of my cables out side of the amp including the for SpeakOns that go to the 2nd box for distribution.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

I am looking for something similar to this for my jacks on the back of the amp...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Round-12v-P...ash=item1a09b0e693:g:rEoAAOSwt6ZWU3YD&vxp=mtr


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

I am now waiting on the new rear panel.

What is best for screws for the standoffs...with built in washer, or with a star washer.

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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Here is a pic of the new gutted case with the amp modules in the approximate layout. I still need to drill the holes, and do a 90 degree bend for the aluminum mounting brackets.

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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

If you look to the right in the above pucture...you can see the orange colored wood side panels for the amp.

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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Just made the final approval on the amp rear panel, and I should have it within the next 2 weeks. 
https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/58d54f39e60fa/CMP-M2860373 - FINAL REV4.pdf

I still need to get like over 100 screws, and washers for the amp brackets. The black rack mount panels look great with the orange wood side panels too. As soon as I get the panel in, I will post pics of the case with the side panels installed. Getting pretty excited to se my first DIY amp coming together...hopefully it will work. 

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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

My amp panel has shipped. The bad news is that they sent me a new invoice, and tacked on $57 for shipping! Their website advertises free shipping with no minimum, but the fine print says special order, and oversize are extra. I sent 2 emails to complain about this outrageous shipping fee for a 5 1/2" × 17 1/2" piece of aluminum. I purchased this from Markertek, and I wouldnt be complaining if it was a more reasonable $10 to even a high figure of $20.

What do you think...reasonable or not?

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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Something is definitely wrong...the sales rep said he checked and the actual wight is 30lbs for the rear panel. We will see what they sent on Thursday this week. I am thinking they sent a complete case to me...which would be interesting since the rear panel I ordered had no mounting holes either.

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## Lumen (May 17, 2014)

ellisr63 said:


> What do you think...reasonable or not?


Maybe reasonable shipping for Next Day Air! Go get 'em - good for you!


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Here is what I got done today on the amp... I have the side panels made, but I cut them shorter than I wanted by about 1/4"... I am thinking of making a short piece of wood to come out 90 degrees from the sides and end at the end of the rack faceplate. By doing this I can recess the rear panel to flush with the metal of the case. I also got all of the aluminum plates drilled. I still need to get thee aluminum plates bent 90 degrees, and order a couple hundred washers, the remaining screws, plus sand and clear coat the side panels. I will also be installing a wood support around the top edge for a plexiglass top. Hopefully in the next week I will be assembling this piece. Next will be the matching breakout box for all the outputs.























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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Yesterday I worked on fixing the side pieces too short. I also installed the Armor, and surround amp modules. Today I plan in installing the rest of the amp modules, and minidsp 2x4s.

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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

I am still waiting on the power plug for the amp. I also need to make the enclosure for the breakout box too.












































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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Here is what I have so far.. I am still waiting on the power plug piece. Does this look like the layout will be Good? I am trying to keep the 24v power supply as far as possible from the rca hookups on the boards, and rear panel. The power supply box is 2" from the corner of the box to the closest rca. The power supply is 3" from the closest rca wires on the closest board.
















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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Now I am looking at wiring the amp. Has anyone ever tried silver wire for internal wiring? I am thinking it might not be too expensive, and I am wondering how it might be if I went with silver for the horns, and copper for the woofers, and surround speakers. 

Any input?

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## Lumen (May 17, 2014)

That's one handsome case, and the plexiglass top is such a cool idea to admire your handiwork! Do you have any concerns regarding thermal issues? I mean, should the top have a few "breather" holes to help rising heat escape? Or are all these modules so efficient that not much heat is expected?

So one of your goals is to reduce or eliminate power supply noise-coupling onto the unbalanced RCA cables? From earlier in the thread, I understand current requirements to be minimal, so resultant magnetic fields should not be that strong. Also, shielded, twisted pair shoul make short work of both RFI and EMI. But if still concerned, you might want to consider one or more of the steps below (Ref: The 13-Step EMI Mitigation Program for Switching Power Supplies).
Use an EMF meter ($35) to determine the orientation and strength of the interfering field then...
Wire the supply to minimize loop area (formed by power line and its return path) 
Include bypass caps between supply lines
Add local decoupling caps at each power supply load
Use a magnetic shield around the supply and/or wiring.

Is there a special reason you're interested in silver wire for the horns? I'm under the impression that silver cables do not have a signature "sound" as many audiophiles claim, and that using silver-plated wire to mitigate "skin effect" is ineffective at audio frequencies. Something else to consider: some maintain that wire should be the same throughout the signal chain, so what's outside your chassis should match the insides. The idea is that the more similar metals in the chain (include connectors and physical connections), the better the effect on sound.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

I discussed with a friend last night, and I think I am going to go with a wall wart for the mini dips. As far as heat these amps are designed for powered speakers so the heat should be very little. I just ordered some 22 awg mil spec silver clad copper twisted pair wire for the internal wiring. From what I have read the big difference is no corrosion, but the disease advantage is breaking time (not sure if I believe in breaking time for wires or not, but the quality of mil spec wire for what I paid should be worth it, plus it is easier to solder. The amp modules are class D ones. I have thought about venting the p,exit but I am not sure it is needed since they are for powered speakers. The whole bottom is vented so in theory I could pull the heat downward and away if needed.

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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

If I like the way It sounds... I might wire to the speakers with it too, but I would need several hundred feet minimum.

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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

I will take more pics with my phone next time as the tablet doesn't do well at all.

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## Lumen (May 17, 2014)

Pics are always welcome! And thanks for reminding me of some of the design's finer points. I applaud your efforts on this ambitious project!


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Hopefully it will work... ?

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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

I am currently redoing the wood side panels as I didn't like the way the water based poly finish came out. I sanded them down and started to apply Hormbys lemon oil to them. So far they look 100% better. I will post up pics whenever I get them to the level I was thinking them to be. I also need to make the wood shelving for the plexi too, and oil it too. 

I also just received a pair of USB panel mount Jacks that will be mounted above and below the power jack on the back panel. I also have decided to get a wall wart for the minidsps instead of the separate power supply. Another change is that I will be mounting 2 boards to each plate instead of one. The reason for this is we have the space to space the amps further apart from each other which I am thinking will also keep them cooler.

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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

I got a little progress today... I removed all the modules, and mounted them 2 to a support, and did a temp install of the rear plate. I also refinished the side panels. I have one more plate with 2 amp modules left to install. Once that is done I will be making the support wood strips for the top cover, and the rear panel support. Then we should be ready to start wiring it all up. As you can see we eliminated the 24v power supply, and will be going with a wall wart to power up the minidsps. I know I can use the USB to power the minidsps, but I feel safer with a wall wart as USB has not always been reliable in my experience. I would not be happy if the USB failed, and sent full range to my horns while cranking.

I still haven't figured out what I want to do with the the window on the front of the amp either.























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## Mikelo (Jul 25, 2014)

Nice project !!

:|


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Sorry for the delay...we have moved to Mexico, and I should have my equipment out of storage by the beginning of February. When I packed it up it was all wired, and had been tested to make sure it worked properly, and didn't have any hiss by a friend of mine. If everything survived I will be making the top for the amp, and then decide what to do with the faceplate. This will be the first time I have heard the amp on my setup. It will also be the first time I have tried my JBL surround speakers as front channels. I am planning in making 3 new front channel speakers for our living room, and that will be what the DIY amp will be hooked up to until we get to a bigger place (also one we will own instead of renting) and get the theater going again. I need to make a new entertainment rack soon too for our living room...so much to do and so little money to do it with.

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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Update on the amp.

I purchased a Krell clone case...which is being modified. We are making a new center piece, back panel, and rear rack mount handles. The new amp will have 3B&O 125w modules modded to balanced, and 3 50w BTL modules. We have 3 smaller amps for the horns on the front channels, and the big amps are for the front 3 woofers. The amp will have 3 XLRs, 3Speakon outputs, and 3 Powercon connectors. We are using 3 Powercon conectors so we can power up the amp we need when we need them, and power down when not needed. We will be using one power connector to power each of the front 2 channels, one for the center,. We will have 3 power switches on the front with 6 LEDs to indicate modules are on.

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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

3 AMP CAMP amps in mono will soon be drivng the compression drivers, and 2 icepower asx125btl amps will be used for each front channel to drive woofers.


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