# Subwoofer making popping sound - a different cause from other threads



## DukeSweden (3 mo ago)

My subwoofer (Klipsch SW120R) will make a popping sound always at the same point in a movie. One example is the beginning of Jurassic World Lost Kingdom. At the beginning we see the 2 man sub going down to retrieve a sample. As each headlight turns on there's a dull thump which is in the soundtrack. But with one of the headlights, the sub will make a popping sound, even though the thump on the soundtrack is exactly the same as the other ones. The thump itself is not the loudest sound, or the lowest frequency. It's pretty inconsequential and the sub should handle it with no problem.
Lowering the sub's decibel level does nothing, lowering the volume on the equalizer does nothing, lowering the gain on the sub does nothing. The only thing that stops it is lowering the master volume to -9 db (The AVR is calibrated to Reference Level). 
I've done that and raised the db's on the other speakers to compensate for the lower main volume, but I shouldn't have to. My AVR is a Yamaha RX-A2A. My other sub is also a Klipsch 12", the only difference being it's a downfiring sub, and it's 22 years old. It never gives me any problems.
I'm just adding this post since the cause of my problem is different from all the other posts about sub popping. I'm using a new Monster sub cable which is really flimsy for a Monster cable. I just ordered a new, higher quality cable off Amazon, when I get it I'll replace the current cable and try running the movie at 9db, then 8db, etc. to see if it takes care of the problem.


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

Definitely a curious problem. The only thing I can suggest is to monitor the driver itself at that moment, to see if its having excessive excursion.

Regards,
Wayne


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## DukeSweden (3 mo ago)

Wayne A. Pflughaupt said:


> Definitely a curious problem. The only thing I can suggest is to monitor the driver itself at that moment, to see if its having excessive excursion.
> 
> Regards,
> Wayne


Thanks for the response, Wayne. I've already done that, I even had my hand on it while it made the popping sound. It really doesn't seem to be doing anything out of the ordinary. I will report back once I replace the sub cable. It gets here on Friday.


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## DukeSweden (3 mo ago)

UPDATE: The new cable did nothing. Still making the popping sound above -8db on main volume.


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## adsell (Nov 11, 2021)

possible that you have a bad power supply\caps. Can you play music through it and does it ever make that popping noise too?


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## Lucerust (Mar 11, 2012)

Hi. If I understand this correctly, lowering the volume of the sound coming from the sub by lowering the equalizer gain or the sub's own gain control does not affect the popping sound, but lowering the system's master gain control does?
That makes it sound like a signal level getting too high somewhere between the adjustment point in the signal chain that affects the pop (master volume control) and the first subsequent adjustment point in the signal chain that does not affect the pop (volume control in the equalizer?).
Having said that, I'm not sure how to proceed with isolating it further.


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## DukeSweden (3 mo ago)

adsell said:


> possible that you have a bad power supply\caps. Can you play music through it and does it ever make that popping noise too?


It only does it on certain points of a few movies. I can watch Youtube TV, Youtube, listen to music, all with no popping.


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## DukeSweden (3 mo ago)

Lucerust said:


> Hi. If I understand this correctly, lowering the volume of the sound coming from the sub by lowering the equalizer gain or the sub's own gain control does not affect the popping sound, but lowering the system's master gain control does?
> That makes it sound like a signal level getting too high somewhere between the adjustment point in the signal chain that affects the pop (master volume control) and the first subsequent adjustment point in the signal chain that does not affect the pop (volume control in the equalizer?).
> Having said that, I'm not sure how to proceed with isolating it further.


I agree but the signal level isn't all that loud. I've got the AVR set to Reference level (75db at 0db master volume). I've played louder movies at louder volumes, and, again, on the one scene in particular, at the beginning of Jurassic World Lost Kingdom, as the 2 man sub is going down to take a sample, it's coming towards the camera. After the third light comes on at the center of the submarine, the next light on the left comes on and makes the popping sound. The actual sound on the soundtrack when that light comes on is exactly the same as the sound for the other headlights. It's not louder, softer, or a different frequency.


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## Lucerust (Mar 11, 2012)

It is a puzzle, but if the effect is repeatable, then there must be a difference either in the sound itself, or the other sounds in the movie at that moment in time, that add up to trouble at any setting above -8dB on your master volume.
I don't know the details of your system, but is there an accessible signal lead between pieces of equipment, or an additional output following the master volume control, that is analog rather than digital, that someone could view with a 'scope to gain useful insight into the issue?


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## DukeSweden (3 mo ago)

All I can tell you is my AVR is a Yamaha RX-A2A, with 2 sub outs (but not separate controls for each sub). One sub, which gives me no problems, is a Klipsch 22 year old down firing 12" sub, the one causing the problem is a 7 month old Klipsch R120-SW front firing sub. With the better quality cable I added a couple of days ago I can get it up to -5db on the main volume.


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## Lucerust (Mar 11, 2012)

Have you tried swapping the sub outputs over?


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## Jon67 (Jul 8, 2008)

First you said the new cable didn't help. Then later on you say sit gave you 3db of headroom. Which is it? If changing a cable changes your levels there's certainly a problem. Proper cables should be transparent. 

Unless you did some advanced work "setting a sub to reference level with an AVR" doesn't mean much in reality. No matter what sub you use it's not likely that the in-room response will be flat. So, when you set a level it's at a particular frequency which could leave a peaks that are way higher than that level that will over drive your sub only at that frequency. The only ways to fix this are physical placement or EQ to tame the peaks followed by readjusting your levels. THIS is typically why AVRs set sub levels drastically different to the mains (because they're reading a peak or trough in the subs response) which you mentioned. AVRs also typically do not have the ability to accurately EQ a sub.


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## DukeSweden (3 mo ago)

Jon67 said:


> First you said the new cable didn't help. Then later on you say sit gave you 3db of headroom. Which is it? If changing a cable changes your levels there's certainly a problem. Proper cables should be transparent.
> 
> Unless you did some advanced work "setting a sub to reference level with an AVR" doesn't mean much in reality. No matter what sub you use it's not likely that the in-room response will be flat. So, when you set a level it's at a particular frequency which could leave a peaks that are way higher than that level that will over drive your sub only at that frequency. The only ways to fix this are physical placement or EQ to tame the peaks followed by readjusting your levels. THIS is typically why AVRs set sub levels drastically different to the mains (because they're reading a peak or trough in the subs response) which you mentioned. AVRs also typically do not have the ability to accurately EQ a sub.


At first the new cable didn't help. Then the next day it allowed me to go up to -5db. What can I tell you. I'm just reporting my results. It didn't change my levels, it just let me turn up my main volume by -3db.
The Yamaha does allow me to adjust EQ on the sub. I brought both of them way down below 0db (I forget the frequencies right now but they're the two lowest on the equalizer). That gave me a lot tighter, drier bass response. Anyway like I said -5db is plenty loud for me, so I'll leave well enough alone.


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## Jon67 (Jul 8, 2008)

I've run into this issue a number of times. There are many possibilities. Swaping a cable should not have made any difference unless there was a problem with the cable. Perhaps if the impedance was much greater and or it was so long that the was a voltage dropped across it. This can be easily measure. As someone mentioned it could be a power supply cap on the sub's amp which is also easy to diagnose and fix. It could be not enough voltage out of the Yamaha's outputs two drive both subs. It could be a failing output for one of the subs. Try disconnecting the old sub and just running the new one. Try it with both current cables and swapping inputs on the receiver. See if it performs better with just that sub. The new sub's amp may be more picky. Maybe it has a dsp and it's clipping internally due to stacking processing. Perhaps the sub's driver is damaged but only shows it's fault under very particular conditions.

Let is know as if you figure it out it could help others.


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## DukeSweden (3 mo ago)

The original cable was a Monster cable, but it was so flimsy and thin I was surprised Monster put their name on it. The new cable is much heftier, with gold plugs.
For the record, I'm 68, in poor health, just getting behind the AVR to plug and unplug stuff is a major painful chore for me. Like I said, -5db is more than loud enough for me.
Klipsch had offered to replace the sub for a previous problem (LFE signal sometimes did not turn on the sub), but of course I'd have to send this to them first and there's no way I can lift this thing, put it in a box and drag it to UPS.


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## Jon67 (Jul 8, 2008)

Fully understand. Glad that you found some improvement. Also, I've almost never been comfortable listening at reference level. It's REALLY loud. HAPPY LISTENING!


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## DukeSweden (3 mo ago)

Jon67 said:


> Fully understand. Glad that you found some improvement. Also, I've almost never been comfortable listening at reference level. It's REALLY loud. HAPPY LISTENING!


I don't! It's a shock to the system when I check my levels and then forget to lower the AVR down from 0db! I usually listen between -11db and -5db (Marvel movies are notoriously quieter than DC movies or the Mission:Impossible series)


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## DukeSweden (3 mo ago)

Interesting and aggravating. I watched Top Gun Maverick tonight. It made my _other_ sub sound like a friggin' popcorn machine! Well, not that bad, but pretty bad.


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## DukeSweden (3 mo ago)

Here's a happy update for you. I know this goes against the Home Theater bible, but I lowered all of my levels to -8.5 so I could raise the main level to -3, and no more popping. I tweaked my surrounds so I could hear them, and the overall sound is amazing. Death to Reference Level!!!
So that's the last you'll hear from me about popping sounds. Now to find something good to watch tonight.


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## Gabbyy Alex (3 mo ago)

Noway that there's absolutely no one attempting to fix this for us.


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## DukeSweden (3 mo ago)

Gabbyy Alex said:


> Noway that there's absolutely no one attempting to fix this for us.


You have the same problem? I'm telling you, today's electronics are a crapshoot. I've had problems with a Samsung 85" 8K tv, a Denon 690H AVR, an Onkyo AVR, a Yamaha RX-A2A AVR, Klipsch subs, and an Nvidia SHield Pro. I know $8k isn't a lot to spend on a home theater but that ain't chicken feed either. All the components that I replaced with these never gave me any problems in 20 years of ownership. Oh, and while watching the Skyfall castle being blown up scene in Skyfall this morning, the sub popped. Grrrrr.....

btw, Gabbyy, as far as fixing, Klipsch offered to replace the sub, but as I said before, it's physically impossible for me to return this one, so what's the point...


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## DukeSweden (3 mo ago)

I found the cause. My 22 year old sub crapped out and I didn't even realize it. 
I didn't even realize until I did a phase test, turning 1 sub off and checking the decibel level, then turning the other sub off. When I turned off my new sub, the old sub sounded like absolute ****. I went to Best Buy and bought another sub, matching the new one I bought a few months ago. And the earth moved...
This is one happy camper.


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## theJman (Mar 3, 2012)

After 22 years it was time, glad to hear it worked out in the end.


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## DukeSweden (3 mo ago)

theJman said:


> After 22 years it was time, glad to hear it worked out in the end.


Thanks! Just did some sound checks and everything sounds amazing. I have finally achieved rumble chair and chest thumping bass. Just in time for movie night. Cheers!


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## DuggII (Nov 28, 2013)

I just repaired a 20year old subamp, it was in nice shape, all but two swollen caps. 
Super easy fix, about 1hour and I'm not a amplifier guru.
In the meantime, simply rerouted the wires to another subamp that I wasn't using, but the repair went went and it runs all day now.


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## DukeSweden (3 mo ago)

DuggII said:


> I just repaired a 20year old subamp, it was in nice shape, all but two swollen caps.
> Super easy fix, about 1hour and I'm not a amplifier guru.
> In the meantime, simply rerouted the wires to another subamp that I wasn't using, but the repair went went and it runs all day now.


Judging by the sound mine was making I think it's more a case of the electronics giving out rather than the drivers. I don't even know what you mean by swollen caps or how you went about fixing that problem.
EDIT: By swollen caps you mean capacitors?


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## RobKnapp (Nov 30, 2020)

DukeSweden said:


> : By swollen caps you mean capacitors?


Yes !








My soldering skills leave a lot to be desired !


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## DukeSweden (3 mo ago)

RobKnapp said:


> Yes !
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yikes, between the new caps, soldering iron, solder, and hospital visit I'm better off just leaving it as an end table ;-)


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## Da Wiz (May 8, 2019)

One of the major preventers in DIY circuit board repairs are the wide adoption of multi-layer circuit boards. These can make it impossible to perform useful repairs because your soldering equipment is not what is needed for solder-through holes... either removing existing devices or inserting replacement devices. It is difficult to draw solder through multi-layer holes because each layer may have it's own connection to the device. All those extra layers act like heat sinks that each have to be heated enough to create a live solder joint. The other big preventer of DIY repairs is surface-mount devices that are tiny and not likely to survive overheating just to get a good solder connection.


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## DukeSweden (3 mo ago)

Da Wiz said:


> One of the major preventers in DIY circuit board repairs are the wide adoption of multi-layer circuit boards. These can make it impossible to perform useful repairs because your soldering equipment is not what is needed for solder-through holes... either removing existing devices or inserting replacement devices. It is difficult to draw solder through multi-layer holes because each layer may have it's own connection to the device. All those extra layers act like heat sinks that each have to be heated enough to create a live solder joint. The other big preventer of DIY repairs is surface-mount devices that are tiny and not likely to survive overheating just to get a good solder connection.


Precisely why I opted to just replace the sub. A bit of good news. I paid $599.00 for the sub, and 4 days later BB lowered the price to $299. They were pains in the *** when it came to price match but I finally got it done. Anyway, if you're in the market for a useless Klipsch sub hit me up ;-)


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