# Connecting Ep2500 to receiver Help



## Guest (Oct 7, 2007)

Hello everyone,
I currently have a Denon Avr-2700 receiver to two Cambridge tower 2 and athena surrounds . I recently purchased a Ep-2500 to bridge for low freq for Ht.

Anyways, I connected the Ep-2500 into input 1 with a rca cable with a mono 1/4 plug adapter. The rca is wired into the Denon preout for sub. The subwoofer is a dvc wired in series for a 8ohm load. 
I get no sound or hissing nothing, the clipped led light stay on.. Subwoofer is wired correctly.

What would be the correct way to connect this amp?

Thanks in advance for any help

Mybe I need a crossover or line level???


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## Otto (May 18, 2006)

Achambers777 said:


> Mybe I need a crossover or line level???


 

Hi there,

Not sure what's wrong, but you don't need anything at this point. You may need something in the future, but you should be able to get something out of this system as it is.

Has this receiver ever worked with another sub? If not, perhaps there's some setup in the receiver's menu that needs to be taken care of.
Are you sure that all the connections are correct and that there are no shorts? The clip light being on all the time indicates that something's probably wrong.
Are all the DIP switch settings on the EP2500 correct? I believe there are options there for bridging, using a single input, etc.
Those are the things I'd check first.


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## jackfish (Dec 27, 2006)

Using an RCA to 1/4" plug adapter should work just fine. You are correct in connecting the RCA to your receiver's subwoofer pre-out and connecting the 1/4" plug into INPUT 1 of the EP2500. Make sure the switches 6 and 7 are set to "BRIDGE MODE ON", switches 4 and 5 are set to "STEREO", and only use the two middle binding posts to connect to the subwoofer. Only channel one controls are used. Also make sure the "GAIN" control for channel 2 is turned to its left-most postition.


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## paulspencer (May 11, 2007)

Most likely you aren't getting enough gain. You really do need a crossover, which should have gain, a crossover and ideally a rumble filter. I use this amp, and a DIY crossover kit which works well. Some time ago I found I needed to mod it to increase the gain. Without the crossover I get nowhere. 

First I'd hook it up to one of the main pre-outs if you have them to test.

Check meticulously your dip switch settings - they are confusing as there are some contradictions in the instructions/diagrams. 

Also make sure that you have the passive attenuators on the front correct. As I recall, channel 1 controls the volume, but the other one must be turned the other way or they cancel each other out. 

Make sure you don't have the low cut filters on - you could easily cut below 50 Hz and if your crossover point was 60 Hz then you would eliminate most of the signal!

Check everything rigorously - it's easier to make a mistake when bridging. Also make sure you have the speaker wire done right.


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## thxgoon (Feb 23, 2007)

Ditto on checking the dip switches. The red clipping lights indicate there is definitely something wrong post amplifier. In other words this is not an issue between your receiver and the amp. Try running the sub with just one channel of the amp in its normal configuration and see if it works. If all else fails they have a great warrenty and will swap the unit for you.


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## Rodny Alvarez (Apr 25, 2006)

turn the amp on w/o the sub hook up and see if the red lights are still on, this way you know for sure the sub its not the problem!


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## toecheese (May 3, 2006)

jackfish said:


> Using an RCA to 1/4" plug adapter should work just fine. You are correct in connecting the RCA to your receiver's subwoofer pre-out and connecting the 1/4" plug into INPUT 1 of the EP2500. Make sure the switches 6 and 7 are set to "BRIDGE MODE ON", switches 4 and 5 are set to "STEREO", and only use the two middle binding posts to connect to the subwoofer. Only channel one controls are used. Also make sure the "GAIN" control for channel 2 is turned to its left-most postition.


_Also check the push button next to Input 1 which is a 3db(?) boost._ <- that's wrong- the boost button is on the BFD.

Chances are that the problem is with your receiver either not having the subwoofer channel turned on, or it isn't truly line-level. 




In my case, I have a DSP1124 (aka BFD) wired in first with the RCA to 1/4 jack, then a balanced output to the sub. 

One benefit of this is that it shows input levels in the LEDs- I used it to find that I had a bad cable from my receiver to the sub.



Edit: also the dip switches- use the silkscreened image for on-off and *not* what is printed on the dip itself.
You don't need a crossover, because that's what your receiver should be doing for you anyway (there may be a setting as to set it to- typically 80 Hz).

Edit2: Why are you running bridged, anyway? Do you really have a load that needs that?


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## paulspencer (May 11, 2007)

Bridging makes sense if it's just for one sub. That amp can bridge a 4 ohm load and get 2.4kw. You can get the same result with normal operation and one channel to each VC with a DVC sub driver, but this way you use less cable - neater. 

The red clip lights should not be on. The only time they should come on and stay on is after you turn the amp off and the power supply caps are discharging. Other than that, you will only see them blink on very briefly if the amp is clipping.

At this point I would hook up some dispensable speakers and simply run some music fullrange and check the amp is fine.


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## toecheese (May 3, 2006)

paulspencer said:


> Bridging makes sense if it's just for one sub.


*If* that sub needs it, which is my question- does any single sub need 2.4KW? Just because it can output that power, doesn't mean it should. Bridging the the two amps doubles your potential noise.


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## paulspencer (May 11, 2007)

A sub could easily need 2.4kw, especially one with multiple drivers. The question is does _this_ sub need it. Probably not.

The alternative is 650w into 4 ohms with just one channel, plenty of power for most subs. Unless he is using an efficient sub, which is unlikely, noise isn't going to be a problem with this amp. I'd consider the extra headroom to be a higher priority. I recall a comparison of a plate amp with around 250w driving an Adire Tempest, then a Crown K1 with around 500w, same track. The difference between the two in authority was astounding. I'm not sure why they were so different, it could be a headroom issue. Often subs are powered with an amp that can reach xmax at the desired LF extension limit. However, when you are listening to music, xmax isn't usually the limiting factor in output, and if you have a driver with a high thermal power handling, you can get more output by feeding in a lot of power.


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## Simonno10 (Dec 27, 2009)

Ok I'm bringing this thread back from the dead. I purchased an Ep-2500 to power my SVS B4+ passive sub about 1 year ago and I've never been convinced it sounds right. I have done extensive reading on the net to find the answer for the correct Dip switches for running the amp in Bridge Mode. I have been using the following:

1.Right
2.Left
3.Right
4.Left
5.Left
6.Right
7.Right
8.Right
9.Left
10.Left

Then I read on this forum that switching dip switch #8 to the Left and leaving #3 to the right increasing the power of the output? I have tried this way and my Channel 1 Clip light stays hard on but goes away once the amp receives a signal. I tried some BD movies that I'm familar with and it just doesn't sound right the bass was too boomy and in the wrong places meaning bass where there should have been and bass where it shouldn't. Hard to convey into words how it's sounding. Also purchased recently a Samson S-Convert and have set that up correctly following instructions from a friends who works with pro equipment and is using one himself in a 2 sub config. After setting the Channel 1's attenuator and also adjusting the gain setting on the S-Convert Audyssey set the Sub trim to -2 on my NAD-T175 pre-pro as my friend said it's better to have Audyssey increase the trim and the EP-2500 is receiving a stronger signal.

Can anyone tell me what the correct settings are for the Dip Switches please running a passive sub in bridge mode? Thanks for the assist and sorry for the long winded post.


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## rjwtoy (Jan 6, 2010)

I'm with you Simon, I'm not convinced I have them correct either on my EP1500. The manual says one way, the back of the amp says another (which is 3 and 10 to the right, all others to the left which is the way I have my run and it seems to be fine), and Behringer Tech support says yet another way. To my understanding after much reading, it makes sense to have Channel 1 (1-3) set so the clip is on, the filter is on and I guess the filter setting, 30 or 50 is up to the user and shouldn't matter. I have a Reckhorn B-1 before my amp so I have mine set to 30. Now as for Channel 2 (8-10) it also makes sense to turn the filter and the clip off as you are not using this channel when bridged, so whether the filter is set to 30 or 50 here, it shouldn't matter. DIP switches 6 and 7 once turned to bridge mode I assume would override 4 and 5 because those are the stereo and parallel switches, if 6 and 7 were turned off, I could see where this would be critical either on stereo or parallel. 

But it just doesn't seem that I'm getting 1400 watts into my sub which is a Tempest X-2. Just my .02.


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