# Rythmik FV15HP



## Dale Rasco (Apr 11, 2009)

*Specifications* 



*Driver *
DS1510 15" high excursion with custom sensing coil

*Driver materials*
Black anodized aluminum with rubber surround 
Cast aluminum basket 
Copper flux modulation shorting rings 

*Amplifier *
600 RMS class H patented servo controlled

*Dimensions*
19"(W) x 19 " (H )x 20 "(D) - (21-1/2" D with grille) 

Shipping Weight
108 lbs 

*Frequency Response *
14 - 200 Hz (-2 dB @ 14 Hz) with LFE inputs
14 - 90 Hz (-2 dB @ 14 Hz) with LINE IN inputs

*Crossover slope *
Selectable 12 or 24 dB / octave (PEQ and XLR versions) 

*Crossover range (Low pass)* 
25 - 100 Hz

*Rumble Filter (High pass )* 
20 Hz 18 dB / octave 

*Phase response* 
90 degrees phase shift at 20 Hz 

*Phase adjustment *
0 - 180 degrees continuously variable 

*Bass damping factor settings *
high (Q=0.5), med (Q=0.7), and low (Q=1.1) 

*Finishes*
Available in honey oak vinyl or black oak vinyl

*Warranty*
5 years warranty on driver and 2 years on electronics
30 day satisfaction guarantee




*Manufacturers Published Measurements*










*Frequency Response*









*Max Output Before Compression* 









*Spectral Decay*









*Group Delay*









*Waterfall*









*Spectrogram*









*Harmonic Distortion*


*32 Hz*

*40 Hz*

*50 Hz*

*63 Hz*

*70 Hz*

*80 Hz*


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## Peter Orrick (Oct 9, 2006)

Dale-

funny thing, i'm the post who asked you about your behringer with 1.4 software, never heard back except you're checking. Reason it's funny is it for my two rythmik F12's.

Peter


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## aasenm (Oct 27, 2013)

What would you choose between the rythmik fv15hp or the svs sb13 For Music

Thanks Michael


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## Chucka (Feb 17, 2014)

Has there been any reviews of the FV12? I am looking for a MUSICAL sub that would be at home in a Condo with 5 KEF LS-50 speakers. I am concerned over too much bottom disturbing the adjoining condo units so I would prefer the LF not to go down as low as the FV15.


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## theJman (Mar 3, 2012)

Chucka said:


> Has there been any reviews of the FV12? I am looking for a MUSICAL sub that would be at home in a Condo with 5 KEF LS-50 speakers. I am concerned over too much bottom disturbing the adjoining condo units so I would prefer the LF not to go down as low as the FV15.


The FV12 is long gone, since replaced by the LV12R.


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## Chucka (Feb 17, 2014)

Sorry - I meant the F12 family of sealed subwoofers with my most interest in the F12SE fow wife approval. I am not even sure where I came up with the FV12 designation.


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## BeeMan458 (Nov 25, 2012)

The above graphs are open plane testing; ideal conditions. What I want to know, how well will a pair of them perform in a room our size?

...

...11Hz.

...

(i love our FV15HPs)



...:bigsmile:

If one buy's a pair of FV15HPs and gets them "properly" dialed in (based on REW measurements) you won't have regrets.

(dial in a pair of FV15HPs......and you'll understand what the word "spoiled" means)


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## ThrillCity (Jun 20, 2012)

*To Chucka:
Use a high pass? IF you're worried about too much extension there's your answer... From experience you want a subwoofer capable of playing much louder/lower than you need such that listening at normal -> loud volume is just as effortless, i.e. low distortion. People that complain about too much bottom end usually could use more bass traps/eq, it may not apply to you but I'd look down that road if you haven't already.


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## BeeMan458 (Nov 25, 2012)

ThrillCity said:


> People that complain about too much bottom end usually could use more bass traps/eq,


Complaining about too much bottom end?

...

I've read of folks complaining about not enough bottom end, but never of there being too much bottom end. What am I not understanding?

...

Have these folks who are complaining, used room measuring software to measure and graph the acoustics of their room? Are these same said people using "quality" room correction software to correct for the acoustics in their room?

Are these same folks trying to make magic with a single subwoofer based subwoofer system?


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## Mike0206 (Jul 14, 2013)

BeeMan458 said:


> Complaining about too much bottom end? ... I've read of folks complaining about not enough bottom end, but never of there being too much bottom end. What am I not understanding? ... Have these folks who are complaining, used room measuring software to measure and graph the acoustics of their room? Are these same said people using "quality" room correction software to correct for the acoustics in their room? Are these same folks trying to make magic with a single subwoofer based subwoofer system?


 Perhaps what he was trying to say is the bass is too boomy? That's just a guess but I agree, I want more bottom end as do most people. However if it's port chuffing then I could see someone wanting to back off a bit. That could lead someone to say too much bottom end I suppose.


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## BeeMan458 (Nov 25, 2012)

Mike0206 said:


> However if it's port chuffing then I could see someone wanting to back off a bit. That could lead someone to say too much bottom end I suppose.


Agreeing with you, in my opinion, that would that be an excellent reason to buy a second subwoofer?

We had boomy with our system but it was boomy because I had the gain on the subwoofer turned up to high. I don't like boomy so I turned the gain back down. I solved all our problems by purchasing a pair of FV15HPs, a XT32/SubEQ HT equipped AVR and installed and got a freeware copy of REW up and running to be able to measure and tweak the settings.

I state the above only because it's a thread about FV15HPs.


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## Mike0206 (Jul 14, 2013)

I hear you Bee, I was pondering dual rythmik FV15HP's for my sub upgrade but I decided on dual DIY FTW-21's. That should give me some output!! Glad your happy with your rythmik's.


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## BeeMan458 (Nov 25, 2012)

Mike0206 said:


> I hear you Bee, I was pondering dual rythmik FV15HP's for my sub upgrade but I decided on dual DIY FTW-21's.


Very happy with the pair of FV15HPs and you went DIY FTW-21s?

...

34mm Xmax

...

Now thass a lotta air being moved. We have 3300^3 open to kitchen and other areas and can feel the breeze coming across the floor.

What's it like when you're cranking your system?


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## Mike0206 (Jul 14, 2013)

Oh I just ordered them early this week. Won't be in til next week at the earliest. My space is huge hence the reason I went with 2 FTW-21's. I'm at near 7500cu ft for the great room area which is family room and kitchen and completely open. I'll let you know how it all sounds in a few weeks when it's all complete.


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## BeeMan458 (Nov 25, 2012)

Mike0206 said:


> Oh I just ordered them early this week.


That's some exciting stuff. Hope the box assembly goes without troubles. I'd have to go to a cabinet shop to get the box assembled. Are you going with a 4^3 or 6^3 box?

Thass a big room to have to light up. At 7500^3, are two FTW-21s going be enough? I'd guess you'd need three, maybe even four to fill a room the way folks like us want.

...


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## Mike0206 (Jul 14, 2013)

The cabinets will be around 7.5 cu ft maybe a tad bigger. I'm hoping they'll be enough but if not, two more it is


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## BeeMan458 (Nov 25, 2012)

Mike0206 said:


> The cabinets will be around 7.5 cu ft maybe a tad bigger. I'm hoping they'll be enough but if not, two more it is


Maybe a pair of Gjallarhorns?


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## dougri (Apr 1, 2009)

Mike0206 said:


> The cabinets will be around 7.5 cu ft maybe a tad bigger. I'm hoping they'll be enough but if not, two more it is


But that is only .01% of the room volume... Isn't the rule of thumb ~1% 
Seriously though, looking forward to your pursuits. I thought my space was large at 5000 cubes open to the remainder of the house... I guess not!


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## Mike0206 (Jul 14, 2013)

BeeMan458 said:


> Maybe a pair of Gjallarhorns?


 Cabinet size would be a little too big. Haha! I think dual 21's will be enough for me. I could place my most recent build, dual 10", near field to have a little extra mid bass if I need it but I doubt that will be necessary. If you look at at data-bass.com you'll see the UXL-18 and the FTW is basically the same motor and voice coil assembly. Just the cone is different. I'll have them in a bigger box then they tested the UXL in so look to upwards of 4-6db difference as that's what I got with WinISD. Having duals adds another 6db to the output I believe from what I've read regarding subs. So output would be as follows..... 

10hz- 104.2db 
12.5- 108.2 
16- 114.1db 
20- 120db 
25- 125.1db 
30+- 130db + 

Of course these are 2m ground plane measurements outdoors. Just imagine what it'll be in room! These numbers also follow closely to what I modeled in WinISD. Pretty close to a Gjallarhorn's output in the 25hz and below area and putting out more in the 30hz and above.


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## Mike0206 (Jul 14, 2013)

dougri said:


> But that is only .01% of the room volume... Isn't the rule of thumb ~1%


 Haha! Let me get on it then so I can finish my 750 ^3 enclosures! That would be something else wouldn't it?!


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## BeeMan458 (Nov 25, 2012)

Mike0206 said:


> 10hz- 104.2db
> 12.5- 108.2
> 
> Of course these are 2m ground plane measurements outdoors. Just imagine what it'll be in room! These numbers also follow closely to what I modeled in WinISD. Pretty close to a Gjallarhorn's output in the 25hz and below area and putting out more in the 30hz and above.


My guess, in a 7500^3 room, in my opinion, you're going find the 10Hz and 12.5Hz is going disappear. I find that's where the rumble and roll is; the tactile sensation.

Am I off base with that assessment? My experience is limited to what I've read and learned along the way with REW, three Klipsch subs and a pair of FV15HPs. I don't do DIY. Those FTW 21s will move a lot of air, but will that be enough for 7500^3 in the lower octave?

In room, what are your expectations at 10Hz and 12.5Hz?


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## Mike0206 (Jul 14, 2013)

I'm not sure what the output at 10hz will be. I would assume though that I would need 4 to hit reference at 10hz. It's really hard to say. I'm not to worried myself about the ULF output as much as I am hitting reference in my room at say 18-20hz. I don't think I'll have a problem with that.


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## BeeMan458 (Nov 25, 2012)

Mike0206 said:


> I'm not sure what the output at 10hz will be. I would assume though that I would need 4 to hit reference at 10hz. It's really hard to say. I'm not to worried myself about the ULF output as much as I am hitting reference in my room at say 18-20hz. I don't think I'll have a problem with that.


My reason for worrying about hitting reference in the lower octaves is, when the movie sound tracks are measured, there's a surprising amount of ULF in the recording that's not being reproduced. If one can't hear the difference they sure can feel it as the whole room starts to breath when the pulse wave goes through the room. Yeah baby! 

Money limited us to about 11Hz and if I had the budget, which we clearly do not, I would be pushing for a pair of Triax subs or JTR Captivator S2s, either of which will easily break the <10Hz barrier. So much money for so little. In the honest end, working with you and your comments, I guess a lot of my desire is ego based, just to say I can go there. Our system will easily do reference at 16Hz and what we have is far better than what one will experience in a theater.

Greed is a terrible sin to waste.

...

Good luck with your DIY project and I'll keep my fingers crossed that when finished, you'll get what you want in that big room of yours.


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## Bear123 (Dec 31, 2013)

Mike0206 said:


> I'm not sure what the output at 10hz will be. I would assume though that I would need 4 to hit reference at 10hz. It's really hard to say. I'm not to worried myself about the ULF output as much as I am hitting reference in my room at say 18-20hz. I don't think I'll have a problem with that.



I agree with you about staying more focused on the 18-20Hz stuff. Most people with strong low frequency output seem to concur that most of the tactile feel/shake/rumble happens 16Hz plus. There are scenes that include plenty of output below 16 Hz, but I think that people are feeling the 16+ and not the 15 and below.

I actually did a single frequency sweep that played tones starting at 1 Hz and going up to 30 Hz. Lots of cone movement starting below 10Hz. At 15 Hz...nada..at 16....boom, all the rumbling started.

Theres a DIY guy on AVS that measured 115 dB at 15 Hz and barely noticed anything...which is why he went with ported subs.


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## BeeMan458 (Nov 25, 2012)

Bear123 said:


> I agree with you about staying more focused on the 18-20Hz stuff. Most people with strong low frequency output seem to concur that most of the tactile feel/shake/rumble happens 16Hz plus.


You leave out the part about "nearfield" placement having a +10dB advantage over subs placed ten feet away.

IIRC, basshead81 has all three of his ported subs placed nearfield.

(once one has gone nearfield, there's no going back)


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