# Onkyo 876 sub out voltage



## gperkins_1973 (Aug 25, 2008)

Hi there,

I was wondering if anyone knows what the sub out voltage is on the Onkyo 876. I am connecting it to a Behringer EP4000 and am wondering if I am getting enough voltage from the onkyo into the Behringer amp.

cheers

Graham


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## tcarcio (Jun 27, 2007)

Well maybe Tony will know but most recievers do not put out enough voltage to drive the amps to their fullest. I have a Pioneer Elite and I needed the samson s-convert to get the amp to really sing. I would call Onkyo and talk to a tech but I see alot of recievers only putting out 2-300mv's which will not give you what the amp is rated for.


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## gperkins_1973 (Aug 25, 2008)

Hi there,

It says in the specifications that the output level is 200mv. What is that in terms of actual volts. Is that 0.2 volts? If the correct voltage was going into the behringer amp does this mean the subs will sound better in terms of depth, solidness and loudness.


cheers

Graham


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## tcarcio (Jun 27, 2007)

I cant say for all recievers as I really don't know but if yours say's 200mv that is very low and you will see a night and day difference in the way your sub performs if you feed the amp the correct voltage. My Elite spec was 250mv and I had to turn all my gains to max just to get the sub to work at a decent level but when I added the samson it was a huge difference. I had to turn everything down so I would not overdrive the sub.


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## gperkins_1973 (Aug 25, 2008)

With both my subs running and playing a 30hz sinewave tone at -10db which is only 10db from reference I am only getting 112db with room gain and my gain on the EP4000 is on max. According to winisd I should be getting 119db at 30hz for one sub without room gain so I should be seeing a good 125db at 30hz for both subs with room gain. This is why I was wondering about the samson.

There was plently more in the Q18's too. I could even play a 15hz tone at -10db with no issues.

cheers

Graham


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## Jungle Jack (Jul 28, 2009)

Hello,
This actually underscores one of the issues with integrating Pro Gear with HT gear. With the vast majority of Home Audio Subwoofers, you really do not have to be concerned with this as the designers expect the preamp sections will not be as sensitive.

I actually have had a similar experience when using my Aragon 8008bb , which has a low input impedance (22kOhms in regards to getting the best sound from it. This was an amplifier that definitely was not designed for an AVR to be the preamp. My Parasounds all have 100kOhms input impedance and are much easier to drive.
Cheers,
JJ


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## tcarcio (Jun 27, 2007)

Your right, you should get more then that. I know I can get that with my Danley with my amp gain at 1/2 or just a little more then that and with a 30hz tone I can blow my eardrums out if I'm not carefull.....:hsd:


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## gperkins_1973 (Aug 25, 2008)

Hi there,

I just had this response from Behringer.




> Hi Graham and thank you for writing to BEHRINGER technical support!
> 
> If you use the Line Out of the Onkyo 876, you will not need to amplify this signal prior to inputting to the EP4000. You will want to connect your Onkyo 876 Tape out to your Inputs 1 & 2 on the EP4000.
> 
> ...


Now I am confused. :dontknow:

cheers

Graham


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## tcarcio (Jun 27, 2007)

Me too, I don't get why you would use your tape out.


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## tonyvdb (Sep 5, 2007)

My 805 (the same as the 876 or 875 but without the Reon chip) puts out a lower level than pro audio equipment. I did a test and hooked up my Samson servo to the TRS balanced inputs and it was noticeably softer than when using the rca unbalanced inputs. 
The 200mv is .2volts 1000mv equals 1volt. I think the 200mv is at 0db on the level setting and goes above that if you adjust it up to +15.


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## Jungle Jack (Jul 28, 2009)

Hello,
I will say, with the Onkyo AVR's, picking outboard amplifiers with highish input impedances is the way to go. Since the switch to the 875, I rarely use my Aragon 8008BB. I positively love the amp, but the Onkyo does not get the most out of it due to the Aragon's low input impedance. Again, most power amplifiers have much higher input impedances than the Aragon's do. A corollary is that is was designed to be used with a preamp and not an AVR. It did retail for almost 3000 Dollars so I can understand the expectation that it would not be primarily used with AVR's.

I will say that the preamp section of my former Pioneer VSX-49txi was much better at driving my Aragon. Then again, this was a 5 thousand Dollar AVR.
Cheers,
JJ


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## RXPorlando (Aug 13, 2009)

So what's the best way to increase the voltage for the sub output? Is there a sub EQ that will do this? If so what ones?


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## tcarcio (Jun 27, 2007)

The Samson S-convert is what alot of us are useing with pro amps.





Get it here. www.sweetwater.com


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## RXPorlando (Aug 13, 2009)

OK Great,now if I'm feeding my front stage also plus 3 subs with pro amps do I need 6 total 
s-converts or is there a better product that boost multible feeds and does the same thing??


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## tcarcio (Jun 27, 2007)

RXPorlando said:


> OK Great,now if I'm feeding my front stage also plus 3 subs with pro amps do I need 6 total
> s-converts or is there a better product that boost multible feeds and does the same thing??


Each Samson is 2 channel so you need one for the fronts and if you are running all three subs from one reciever lfe then just put the Samson before you split the signal to the amps and that's it. I would try the front channels first to see how they work without a Samson before deciding you need one.


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## Ricci (May 23, 2007)

Guys I'm using Onkyo's and have no problem driving various pro amps to house crumbling levels (clipping). I know of other people who don't either.The EP2500/400 only needs about 1.4v input to hit maximum output. Most recievers should be able to put out 3-5v easily prior to clipping. Onkyo's do not max out at 200mv.

Ask yourself this...Do you have the amplifier channel trims set to maximum? You should if you don't you are *attenuating the input signal*. Have you tried boosting your SW pre out signal into the positive range? Using the speaker calibration routine in your reciever are you able to calibrate the subs with the mains 75db-75db or even quite a bit hotter like 81db? Yes? Then you have plenty of output voltage for your amps to drive them into clipping. 

If you have the amp turned up full and the sw pre out turned all of the way up to +15 or whatever and you run the calibration routine to set the speakers level relative to each other and *if you cannot get the sub level up even with the mains or a good deal past there like 6db hot, during calibration*, then you need a signal booster. 

I've yet to see a single person report that the above is what is happening and not be able to get their sub level up enough during calibration. How about you try it Graham or someone else and humour me? :neener: Turn your amp trim to full, set your sub pre-out to 0 to start and do the speaker level calibration in your reciever. Record what setting you have to put the sub channel pre-out trim at to get the subs to 75db to match the mains which should also be at 75db.

If you are clipping your amps then you have enough signal. If you can calibrate your subs to the mains correctly then you have enough signal. The reciever volume is what controls the output. If you think your subs should be louder and your amp is not clipping yet you simply haven't turned it up loud enough yet, better hope your mains can make it to the party too. The bigger and badder your sub system the louder you are going to need to turn things up to get them anywhere close to taxing themselves. My main system can put out quite loud bass without the signal lights on the amps even coming on. The bass is still there.


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## gperkins_1973 (Aug 25, 2008)

Ricci,

I can calibrate my subs to 80db with the spl meter and that is having the EP4000's gain on max and my sub trim level on 0db. I have never clipped my behringer amp or BFD once even when watching transformers 2 on -6db on the onkyo. I get 5 green lights only even with the low deep bass parts like the ending where there is alot of action. Your probably right when you say I haven't pushed them hard enough yet as I the loudest I have run a 10hz tone is -19db which gave me 80db at 1m away uncorrected. I have to say watching at -6db gave me an insight into how these two subs of mine handle all types of bass at extreme levels. Maybe I should drive them harder to really see what they are capable of. If I could run a 10hz test tone at reference then I would be over the moon. I have run a 15hz tone at -10db with no issues at all.

One thing I was going to mention is that I have applied about 5 cuts and one boost on my bfd filters. The cuts add up to about 14db and the boost is 5db. Will this make a vast difference on the power taken away from the EP4000 to incorporate those cuts and boost.

What are your thoughts Ricci.

cheers


Graham


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## tcarcio (Jun 27, 2007)

I have alway's agreed that if you can get the levels you need with your reciever as is, and you are happy then fine but I don't agree on maxing everything out to get there. I have a Danley DTS 10 horn sub and I shake the house with my EP2500 set at 1/2 gain and my reciever gain at 0db. Also not all recievers put out what pro sound equipment need or there would be no need for things like the Samson or an Art cleanbox except to balance the signal. IMO, I would much rather run my equipment at a lower level then to have to turn everything up to get the same result. Like I said though if your happy with what you have then great.


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## gperkins_1973 (Aug 25, 2008)

The problem is I don't actually know if I am getting the most out of it. Would a stronger input signal lead to a better sounding and more defined bass. It may be a crazy question to ask but I thought I would anyway. 

As I said in my previous post when watching transformers at that volume, yes there was alot of bass but I actually did think it could do with more. I guess the only way to find out is to get a samson and try. Its a shame its going to have to cost me £60 to find out. 

Winisd simulated that I should be hitting 111db at 15hz with one sub without room gain. I know I am getting a full 6db between 10 and 30hz with my subs co located so I should be getting 120db at 15hz with room gain roughly and I only measured 102db at -10db at 15hz uncorrected. Does this sound right?

cheers

Graham


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## tcarcio (Jun 27, 2007)

ALL i can say is that adding the Samson to my HT increased my headroom greatly, now to me it does sound much better and more dynamic whether it does for you only you can say but alot of people run there systems with it and say they are happy. Also I don't own an Onkyo and as far as that Ricci has more experience with them since he has one. I am going by what my system produced with my Pioneer Elite reciever.


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## Jungle Jack (Jul 28, 2009)

Hello,
My previous Pioneer Elite AVR (VSX-49TXI) had a much better preamp section. Again, I only noticed it on my Aragon that has a low Input Impedance and really was designed to be used with dedicated Preamps and not AVR's.

My Parasound Amplifiers have almost a 5 times higher Input Impedance which makes it much easier for a preamp to drive. I really think the preamp voltage with Onkyo's might require using Amplifiers with a higher Input Impedance.
Cheers,
JJ


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## Ricci (May 23, 2007)

gperkins_1973 said:


> Ricci,
> 
> I can calibrate my subs to 80db with the spl meter and that is having the EP4000's gain on max and my sub trim level on 0db. One thing I was going to mention is that I have applied about 5 cuts and one boost on my bfd filters. The cuts add up to about 14db and the boost is 5db. Will this make a vast difference on the power taken away from the EP4000 to incorporate those cuts and boost.
> 
> ...


You don't need a signal booster. 

You aren't overly boosting your sw pre-out. It's set to "0" which is fine and you are 5db hot even at that setting and 5 cuts worth of EQ . If you want to see what your subs will do you are going to have to turn your reciever up louder or boost the subs even hotter with the SW pre-out. The fact that you have not seen clipping yet with your set-up is a GOOD thing. It means you have a lot of headroom. 

You have mentioned your Winisd simulation for output. However things are much more complicated than that in the real world. First off that would be at maximum output, which you have not clipped the amp yet so you have an undetermined amount of headroom still left there. Also those SPL values are based on a perfect model with no compressions. They are also at a 1m distance. In your room you are probably about 4m away from the subs. Each time you double the distance you lose 6db of intensity so 4m would be dropping 12db off of the winisd sim. Then you have the room acoustics and boundary reinforcement to consider which is much more complex. You really can't use the winisd sim to gauge what you'll achieve in room at the listening position unless you know exactly what these effects are. It's more for comparing one design to another. Again The fact that you have not seen clipping yet with your set-up is a GOOD thing. It means you have a lot of headroom. In an ideal set-up you'd never reach the limits of your system at any playback level you'd ever care to use with any content. Seems like you are most of the way there. 



Yes eqing will increase or reduce the load on the amp depending on where the content is.


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## Ricci (May 23, 2007)

tcarcio said:


> I have alway's agreed that if you can get the levels you need with your reciever as is, and you are happy then fine but I don't agree on maxing everything out to get there. I have a Danley DTS 10 horn sub and I shake the house with my EP2500 set at 1/2 gain and my reciever gain at 0db. Also not all recievers put out what pro sound equipment need or there would be no need for things like the Samson or an Art cleanbox except to balance the signal. IMO, I would much rather run my equipment at a lower level then to have to turn everything up to get the same result. Like I said though if your happy with what you have then great.


No one is suggesting to max everything out. If you have your amp trim turned down you are lowering the output voltage of your reciever seen by the amp. There is nothing wrong with having them maxed which just means that their sensitivity is highest, basically they are a straght input of the voltage from the source. It is not a volume knob. You would never want to run your sw out up above +5 if you can help it or you could run into clipping issues. The only reason I mentioned +15 is because that is the maximum range on most. 

As of yet *not a single person* on 3 forums I frequent has reported being unable to achieve a calibrated subwoofer setting of +6db hot with a very sane sw pre-out setting in the range of -5 - +5. Not one. If you want to run your subs +15 or +20db hot then obviously you would probably want a signal booster to avoid maxing out your sw pre-out and system noise. This is what usually seems to be the problem is people that want to run the bass very hot like at a concert or in a car in which case yes a signal booster will be needed.


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## tcarcio (Jun 27, 2007)

I agree and that's why I said if it works for you then fine. But headroom is alway's nice and if you are running a sub that needs alot of wattage to perform then you buy the amp that can put out that amount of watts if not more. You cannot get that out of the amp without the correct amount of input that the amp calls for.


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## gperkins_1973 (Aug 25, 2008)

Cheers guys, I guess I have quite a bit of headroom. One thing I have noticed tonight is when I put the EP4000's gain on max I get quite a bit of noise through the subs. Its not loud by any means but I can slightly hear it from the listening position. (Its at a low volume so turned up I won't hear it)

I never had it before when I had the gains on max. Any ideas?

cheers

Graham


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## gperkins_1973 (Aug 25, 2008)

I have just swapped my cables around so that the shorter cable is going into the BFD (3m QED miniuature subwoofer cable) and the Mark Grant (5 or 10m subwoofer cable) and its completely gone.

All good on the hum front thank god. I just played the boiler scene in Pulse at -10db and got very little excursion. I am very surprised. Things were rattling quite a bit but I expected much more. I thought that was a low 10hz tone maybe lower by you would never think from my subs at all. I am going to get a samson and see for myself. I want as much as I can get from my subs as you probably can imagine. 

The other reason why I mention this is because I have a friend who has a BK monolith and we listened to the same film with his sub and although my sub are much more effortless his seemed to have more impact. I know my subs would give a hell of alot more wiht alot more impact and this is what shocked me with this film.




Graham


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## Ricci (May 23, 2007)

One final comment.

It is relatively easy to determine through a simple test whether your reciever has enough voltage to drive your amp to maximum output. Take a cheap RCA zip cord, you know the red and white ones like comes packaged with a cheap dvd player for example and hack the end off of one. Plug the good end into your sw pre-out, attach a multimeter to the other end and unplug your mains from the reciever. Use REW to set-up a sine wave at 50hz or whatever playing through the system. At this point your mains and the sub amp should be disconnected from the reciever so that nothing is going to get damaged. Turn up the volume way up and record the maximum voltage seen at the meter. If it is over 1.4v you have more than enough output to get maximum output and clipping from your amplifier. I'd guess that you'll be able to get 5volts or more out of the Onkyo.


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

Ricci said:


> Turn up the volume way up and record the maximum voltage seen at the meter. If it is over 1.4v you have more than enough output to get maximum output and clipping from your amplifier.


 Ricci, is that DC or AC voltage? I’m working on an article on this topic, as this is an issue that sorely needs clarifying. I’ve heard about the pre-amp output voltage measurement you mentioned, and was considering recommending it as a means to determine if a particular receiver will work with a particular pro amp. 

It seems there are a lot of people out there like Graham who are basically happy with their DIY sub’s performance, but worry that they aren’t getting everything the amp can deliver because of the uncertainly of how to set those gains. I’m trying to come up with some procedures for setting these pro amp levels. I’ve come up with a good one for using them with the main channelss, but the subs are kinda murky, since often the receiver’s sub output is hotter than the mains. Also it’s hard to use the DIY sub builder’s previous sub as a reference point, since there is such an extreme variance in manufactured subs.

As Graham noted, often you can get noise with the gains all the way up, so that should be avoided if that is the case. Off the top of my head, I’d suggest that a good place to start would be with the amp’s gains at 12:00, and with the receiver’s sub output level set to what you were using for your previous sub. At this point do your full speaker level calibration routine, as you would with a standard sub, and perhaps some listening and see how the sub blends with the mains. If the sub sounds a bit weak, then tweak either the receiver’s sub output or the amp’s gains, or both. It makes sense to me that you don’t want either one maxed out, if at all possible.

Once you’re satisfied with the sub/mains blend, disconnect all the speakers (both mains and subs) and turn the receiver’s volume control up to a setting that’s a good bit higher than you would ever use. If you can drive the pro amp’s level meters to clipping, then you’re looking good. If not, you can tweak the sub out or amp gains further. However, this is going to make your bass sound heavy, so you will probably end up returning them to your previous settings. Either way, you‘re assured that you have ample headroom and the amp is getting all the signal it needs. 

In the end, what you _don’t_ want to see is clip LEDs lighting up every time an explosion hits, and to live with the excessive bass levels you’d have to endure to insure those clip lights always went off with that explosion. It seems like this is what some people want, seeing those clip lights all the time to make sure they’re getting all the amp’s power output. No, what you want is a suitable blend between the subs and mains and to never see the amp clip.

There are only a couple of potential problematic scenarios. One would be if you get a good subs/main blend, but the amp readily clips. In that case, a more capable amplifier is probably in order. 

The other would be if you can’t get enough output from your subwoofer (SPL) and aren’t able to drive the amp’s inputs to clipping, even with the gains all the way up. This would indicate that either your amp has low sensitivity, or your receiver doesn’t have enough “umph” to push it, or both. In either case, the S-Convert would be needed.

Naturally, I don’t pretend this is a “be all, end all” procedure; there are just too many different amplifiers, receivers and pre-pros out there for that. But it should offer a good starting point for setting a pro audio sub amp’s gains

Regards,
Wayne


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## Ricci (May 23, 2007)

Sounds good Wayne. AC.

I totally agree with this...

"In the end, what you don’t want to see is clip LEDs lighting up every time an explosion hits, and to live with the excessive bass levels you’d have to endure to insure those clip lights always went off with that explosion. It seems like this is what some people want, seeing those clip lights all the time to make sure they’re getting all the amp’s power output. No, what you want is a suitable blend between the subs and mains and to never see the amp clip."


Exactly. I never see clip lights unless I'm purposely really pushing things in testing. 

Do you like the way that your sub sounds? Does it get loud enough for you? Do the clip lights flash? No? Then you are all good and don't worry about it.


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## gperkins_1973 (Aug 25, 2008)

Wayne,

As I mentioned even when watching Transformers 2 with the amps gain on max and the onkyo's sub trim level on +1 and the volume on -6db I only get 5 green lights on the BFD and that's even the low and loud bassy bits. So setting my amps gain on half or just over will result in me either not getting enough into the subs or setting the onkyo's sub trim on something like +10.

I am guessing but I reckon I can run reference without clipping both the amp and the BFD which is why I started to think of the low voltage input level but then I am getting very good amounts of bass in my room.

I played Bassotronics again this afternoon only on -30db and things were rattling etc... so I know I am getting tonnes of bass but I am any where near clipping anything. Does this then mean I would be able to run my volume to more than reference, to say +5db (the onkyo goes up to +12 or 18db I think). The frustrating thing is they are set to 80db so does this mean I have absolutely tonnes of headroom. 

I have my subs wired up for 2 ohms each so they are being fed with 1250 watts rms into each one if I so want to. Also as I mentioned before the BFD does lower the levels when connected. I may try and disconnect the BFD and just run the EP4000 on its own to see if it clips at high volumes. That way no cuts are being introduced from the BFD.

One thing I did want to mention is with the Onkyo multi EQ. When it calibrates and tries to fix the response to as flat as it can it applies cuts itself so will these be taken into consideration with what headroom is available from the EP4000 just like what the BFD does. So I guess what I am saying is you apply cuts with the BFD and then Audyessy applies its own cuts further.

I hope that last bit makes sense.

cheers

Graham


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## RXPorlando (Aug 13, 2009)

In my owners manual for the crest 8200 it says to keep the amp gains all the way up for maximum head room. I'm guessing this would apply to all amps? I've come to the conclusion that if your clipping the amp you need more subs 

I found a sene in dark nights with heavey sonic bass that cliped the amp every time and use that to adjust the bass in the reciever. The bottom line is now I need more subs and dual 18in mal-x ported just don't cut it.


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## gperkins_1973 (Aug 25, 2008)

Do you have a seperate amp for each Mael-X? I would want to run a good 2000 watts into each maelstrom. I have never clipped my amp. I would love to. Atleast then I can say I have actually done it.

cheers

Graham


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

gperkins_1973 said:


> Wayne,
> 
> As I mentioned even when watching Transformers 2 with the amps gain on max and the onkyo's sub trim level on +1 and the volume on -6db I only get 5 green lights on the BFD and that's even the low and loud bassy bits. So setting my amps gain on half or just over will result in me either not getting enough into the subs or setting the onkyo's sub trim on something like +10.


Graham,

Unfortunately I can’t cull any useful information from your settings, because I have no point of reference for them, like you do. However, 5 green lights on the BFD (-10 dB) is plenty of signal for it. Despite the popular theory, it’s better to leave some headroom rather than running its signal levels to the top.




> So setting my amps gain on half or just over will result in me either not getting enough into the subs or setting the onkyo's sub trim on something like +10.


If you’re referring to the recommendation I made in my previous post, I did note that setting the gains to the half-way point was merely a starting point to calibrating them. If you want to push your receiver’s sub output higher, enabling you to use a low amp-gain setting, you could always switch the BFD to the +4 dBV setting. But it’s noisier in that setting, so you might be just as well off merely increasing the amp’s gains (from an induced-noise standpoint, which is largely irrelevant with subwoofers anyway).




> I played Bassotronics again this afternoon only on -30db and things were rattling etc... so I know I am getting tonnes of bass but I am any where near clipping anything. Does this then mean I would be able to run my volume to more than reference, to say +5db (the onkyo goes up to +12 or 18db I think). The frustrating thing is they are set to 80db so does this mean I have absolutely tonnes of headroom.


Again, I have no point of reference for your system settings, but you did note that you’re getting plenty of bass. Basically it’s easy to determine if you have tons of headroom: If your amps never get close to clipping, even on the most demanding scenes with the system pushed harder than you normally listen, then you have tons of headroom. :T




> One thing I did want to mention is with the Onkyo multi EQ. When it calibrates and tries to fix the response to as flat as it can it applies cuts itself so will these be taken into consideration with what headroom is available from the EP4000 just like what the BFD does.


 Reducing the level of the input signal isn’t going to get you more headroom from the EP4000. It only means you’ll have to increase its gains to compensate. Remember, all the gain control is doing is adjusting for the strength of the incoming signal. That has absolutely no effect on the amp’s maximum output capabilities.




> Also as I mentioned before the BFD does lower the levels when connected. I may try and disconnect the BFD and just run the EP4000 on its own to see if it clips at high volumes. That way no cuts are being introduced from the BFD.


Seems like a pointless exercise to me. Say if you permanently ditched the BFD and its level cuts, you’d end up having to reduce either the amp’s gains, or the receiver’s sub-out level, to compensate for the overpowering bass levels you’d be getting. See “gains / signal strength”comment, above.

Anyway – hope this helps.

Regards,
Wayne


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

RXPorlando said:


> In my owners manual for the crest 8200 it says to keep the amp gains all the way up for maximum head room. I'm guessing this would apply to all amps?


 Nope. With a given subwoofer system, it should be obvious that a 200-watt amp would not require the same gain setting as a 5000 watt amp. Also keep in mind that the manual is written with the assumption that the amp is going to be used in a pro-audio system.

In addition to the difference in power output, higher-powered amps often have higher sensitivity, which means they require higher-than-usual gain settings. You can see this when reviewing the specs for a particular line or model of amp that come in several different wattages; it’s not unusual for the highest-powered amp(s) to have a higher sensitivity spec (unfortunately, the Crest Pro series you have doesn't include sensitivity in their specs). This means that if you had a lower-powered model of a particular amp that was blending well in your system, and then switched it out for the top-of-the-line high-powered model, it would probably require a higher gain setting than the lower-powered one to get the same level-match that you had before. But again, the relative gain setting has no bearing on the amp’s maximum power output. It only means that that amp requires a hotter signal to achieve its maximum output, compared to the lower-powered model. 

Hope this makes sense.

Regards,
Wayne


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## RXPorlando (Aug 13, 2009)

Thanks wayne for the info...The specs in the manual said the amp requires between 2-4volts for the feed..I just recieved the samson and there was no diffrence. But I'll be splitting this sub output 4 times so the samsom will help Then. It occured to me that my box is tuned to 18hz with no filter down low to cut it off from going to low and that must be the reason it's clipping my amp. So I'm going to get a reckhorn so I have a filter for the two mal-x and tomarrow I'm jumping on two DTS-10 and then I should be happy?


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## gperkins_1973 (Aug 25, 2008)

Hi there,

I just received an email from Onkyo with relation to the pre out on the onkyo receivers.

Pre-out level at Recievers

Balanced: 1V/235 Ohm, Max output: 11.0 Vrms
Unbalanced: 1V/470 Ohm, Max output: 5.5 Vrms

Not sure why balanced is on there but the unbalanced is.

cheers

Graham


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## Ricci (May 23, 2007)

They have balanced connections on their top processors PRSC885/886/5507P. I have one an 886P. 11v is more than enough. 

Actually 5.5volts is more than enough to drive even the biggest amp that i'm aware of into heavy overload. Told ya so!:neener: :heehee: JK.


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## gperkins_1973 (Aug 25, 2008)

Cheers Ricci, I just wanted to get it straight from the horses mouth.

Graham


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