# Polk DSW Pro-600



## kermyb123 (May 21, 2008)

Any one else try this driver, Im not overly impressed - wondering what other people would compare it to in the 500-600 range...

I would say the worse issue I have is low end and the lack of it. It doesn't seem to make much of anything under 30-35hz.

Am I being too subjective of a 12" ported sub? Or are there better alternatives.

I don't plan on keeping this unit, I'm in the process of building a unit for myself - but figured I would throw this out there for any fellow readers who might be looking into this sub


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## bobgpsr (Apr 20, 2006)

Internet direct normally gets you much better performance for the $.

SVS is tried and true.

HSU, eD, and Epik are also good choices IMO.


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## brent_s (Feb 26, 2007)

low, loud, small...pick two.

The DSW-600 is relatively small, by 12" subwoofer standards. Even SVS's PB10-NSD, a 10" driver based sub, has a noticeably larger cabinet. The SVS in it's size range would be the SB12+ ($699+ depending on finish). It will probably dig a little deeper than the Polk, but a single unit may not have enough output in that range to satisfy you, depending on room size, seating distance, and SPL preferences.

All of Hsu's 10" and 12" based subs are larger than the Polk as well. Same goes for Elemental Designs. Epik doesn't offer anything smaller than a 15" driver...which require even larger cabinets. Are you sensing the trend here? :bigsmile: 

If $600 is a hard limit with similar size to the Polk, I'm not sure if you can find much more low end extension. If you can give up some more room space, then as Bob said, SVS, Hsu, eD, Epik all have potential solutions to your "problem".

-Brent


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## kermyb123 (May 21, 2008)

cabinet size doesn't scare me... I may still make a box for an older RE xxx 18 I have sitting around. The box for the sub would have been 9-12cubes depending on if I went ported or not. 

I'm a little scared to use the sub I have so I wanted to see what a "factory" unit would sound like in my room - 16X12X8. The room is pretty small so I figured (and I was sold/told) that this Polk would fit my bill. Basically I want somthing that will actually hit a 20hz tone at a good db level. This sub (by specs) hits in the 20-25 range - however in real world its laughable. If I was to make a judgment by ear I would say it rolls off QUICKLY after - 36hz.

FYI I'm scared to use the sub I have sitting around due to the TS fs number being 29hz, which from what I am being told is quite high - for my wants.


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## brent_s (Feb 26, 2007)

Polk specs both anechoic and typical room gain numbers. The problem with room either spec is they vary from room to room and even with the listener/sub relationship within the room. From the objective measurements I've seen, Polk products usually meet their specs...but having an f3 of 25hz does not necessarily mean the unit will produce the output someone wants at that frequency. 

If you've got the driver, it only costs you some time and a few bucks to whip up a cabinet, assuming you have the necessary tools (or access). While 29Hz is pretty high by home standards, you can still get usable output below Fs depending on the driver, alignment, and user expectations. Run the T/S numbers through WinISD Pro or your preferred modelling software and see what you come up with. 

If DIY is an option, there are any number of ways you can go for $600 or less. The Dayton DVC15 is currently on sale at PartsExpress for $109. Pair that with one of Jack's 500 watt amps for $90 in a 6 ft^3 enclosure with a full length 4" precision port...tuning is 17hz. Corner loaded in my 24x16x9 theater room, REW measurements are +/- 2.5 from 10-80Hz. Disclaimer: I use a different amp, no personal experience with any of Jack's NHT surplus items, but have read nothing but positive feedback.

The best part of this project is the cabinet couldn't be simpler if you have a Home Depot close by. They sell precut 16"x48"x.75" MDF square edged shelving for about $5 each. The 48" is actually 48.75", IIRC. You only need 5 panels. Use four full sized and cut two 16"x17.5" pieces from the fifth to make your top/bottom panels. Slice up the rest for internal bracing. You're looking at a 16"x17.5"x51"ish cabinet with about 6.4 ft^3 gross internal before driver/bracing/port/etc.

-Brent


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## kermyb123 (May 21, 2008)

- That amp seems tiny! I have the tools and the know-how to make a cabinet - My other post in the DIY sub section has been re-visited with some very impressive info.


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