# Mounting TV on "Hat Channeled " Wall



## mnye00 (Jan 29, 2010)

Hello All,

I'm wondering if anyone out there has any recommended techniques for mounting their TV on a wall that they have installed RSIC clips and hat channel on? I am considering screwing a couple sheets of plywood (just wide enough to attach the mount to) to the channel and having my drywaller put board up over the plywood. The mount, of course, would then be screwed to the plywood and drywall.

Thanks for any suggestions


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

The following recommendation depends on the size of the TV. For moderate size weight loads, I would suggest that you install the first layer of plywood on the whole wall and have the plywood edge firmly placed on the flooring. This will allow the plywood to support this vertical load by transferring the load to the floor.

Next, I would install an extra row of clips and channel in the general area where the monitor will be installed. Again, to help support the load.

If this is a large monitor, I would suggest decoupling the wall via double stud framing rather than clips and channel. The independent stud wall will hold a huge load and not affect the isolation. The double stud will take up more space, however.


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## fishinbob (Sep 9, 2010)

Depending on the locations of your mount's bolt pattern, I would suggest going back to the framing with a cut just large enough to accomodate at least two or perhaps three horizontal 2x's fastened to at least two studs and any necessary plywood rips to furr it to your wall line. For any additional depth adjustments you can use cardboard butt strips to fine tune. Hopefully you may avert cutting the channel but if not it shouldn't be a big deal. You probably will be able to keep all this work behind the display and if your neat you may even be able to salvage the drywall. :clap:


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

That will significantly limit wall flex = lost sound isolation. You cannot go back to the original framing and lock the movement of the wall


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## mnye00 (Jan 29, 2010)

Ted White said:


> That will significantly limit wall flex = lost sound isolation. You cannot go back to the original framing and lock the movement of the wall


That's what I had thought of doing but for your reasoning Ted, decided against it.

The real issue that I have is that the wall (8' height) that I am going to be mounting the TV on is actually "split" at about the 4' level (a pony wall). The top of the pony wall is at the height of the house's footer and is supported by the basement floor whereas the top section is set back and rests on the footer. Given this, the staggered studs may not work as I may not be able to secure them to anything underneath.

One more idea that I just came up with is to attach two 2x4s to the existing upper wall studs with RSIC-DC04s and support these studs by resting them on top of the pony wall. Would this work?


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## fishinbob (Sep 9, 2010)

Perhaps I'm missing something. Is this an exterior wall? I don't want to seem a wise ..., but if it is purely for attenuation to the exterior I'm baffled. 
As for the flexing wall ... were it mine I wouldn't be concerned about a slight compromise in sound transmission in one bay, I would be more concerned about replacing my display.
You can attach your bottom wall plate to your concrete floor or maybe the top of the foundation wall with a rotohammer and split drives should you elect to add a wall.


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## mnye00 (Jan 29, 2010)

No need to worry about being a wise...., fishinbob, you may actually be able to teach me something. From everything I've read nothing has mentioned not needing to isolate exterior walls. It made sense to me to do it to reduce flanking from my basement to our main living area above. If I am wrong that would actually help a lot as I could just attach the drywall and then the tv straight to the existing studs. If not, then I'm back to my original problem.


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

mnye00 said:


> It made sense to me to do it to reduce flanking from my basement to our main living area above.


This is the exact issue. Sound travelling through the single drywall layer next to the foundation has nowhere to go but up. Classic flanking path. That's why it's necessary to thoroughly treat all walls, not just the ceiling.


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## fishinbob (Sep 9, 2010)

I have studied up a little on your wall system and still feel that my choice would stand. 

One thing I would do though, assuming I was concerned of course, would be to fill each affected wall cavity with rockwool as mass works for you as well. If you block in between the studs and build out you can install the neoprene clip device at each corner or stud involved surrounding your blocking. That way the remainder of your insallation will "flex" :huh:as if it wasn't there. 

I guess I am a smarty pants ... :whistling:

Good luck with your build.

Bob


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

fishinbob said:


> I have studied up a little on your wall system and still feel that my choice would stand.


Doesn't stand. Maybe more studying is necessary. 



fishinbob said:


> One thing I would do though, ... would be to fill each affected wall cavity with rockwool as mass works for you as well.


Mass in a partition cavity is not what we want, hence the advantage of standard fiberglass batts.


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## mnye00 (Jan 29, 2010)

Thanks for the responses. I guess I still have a little work to do.

Ted - what do you think of my dc04 idea?


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## fishinbob (Sep 9, 2010)

Ted White said:


> Doesn't stand. Maybe more studying is necessary.


I should clarify that by saying for me it would, and you're right, I'm obviously no expert either. I do know a few things about construction though.

How about using sheet metal backing and adding addtional channel and clips in the affected area? Would that satisfy your conditions?
Is there just one fastener per clip and how big is it?


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## mnye00 (Jan 29, 2010)

Could you screw the mount into sheet metal (which is behind the drywall) and have it hold? I am using #10 x 2 1/2" screws to mount the clips (yes, one each)


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

So this stud wall is up next to the foundation. If you frame this correctly, it will be decoupled, not require clips and channel, and you can mount the TV right to that wall. I'd strongly suggest two sheets of 5/8" drywall on that wall and field damp it.

I was originally fixated on the original post using clips, but based on what I understand now, clips aren't even necessary


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## fishinbob (Sep 9, 2010)

mnye00 said:


> Could you screw the mount into sheet metal (which is behind the drywall) and have it hold? I am using #10 x 2 1/2" screws to mount the clips (yes, one each)


Most certainly provided the backing is of sufficient guage. I see you can even purchase small quantities on line. The only limitation is the screw sizes available as SMSs stop at 14, which I would hope be large enough to fit the holes provided. Otherwise I would probably make a few holes of my own :gulp:. 

Since it sounds like this wall will be fairly resonant perhaps some kind of special glue or something like dynamat??? might be used to prevent any vibration that may occur.


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

KISS is always a good goal.


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## mnye00 (Jan 29, 2010)

Ted - just to clarify, the lower pony wall is already isolated and sits on the basement floor, but the upper portion of the wall that is set back from this pony wall and sits on the lip of the foundation is the actual exterior wall of the basement and is not isolated from the ceiling above. Hence, the use of clips and channel on only the upper portion of the wall where the TV will be mounted. I would prefer not to frame a new stud wall on top of the pony wall so that I lose the "shelf" created. So, to me the DC04 solution make sense. I basically plan on creating a stud frame and attaching this frame to the upper wall studs with the DC04 clips, putting 2 layers of drywall on top of the frame and attaching the tv mount to this isloated frame. This frame would rest on pony wall so the load would be supported by that and the 4 DC04 clips at the bottom and top of the frame. What do you think?


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## fishinbob (Sep 9, 2010)

mnye00 said:


> Ted - just to clarify, the lower pony wall is already isolated and sits on the basement floor, but the upper portion of the wall that is set back from this pony wall and sits on the lip of the foundation is the actual exterior wall of the basement and is not isolated from the ceiling above. Hence, the use of clips and channel on only the upper portion of the wall where the TV will be mounted. I would prefer not to frame a new stud wall on top of the pony wall so that I lose the "shelf" created. So, to me the DC04 solution make sense. I basically plan on creating a stud frame and attaching this frame to the upper wall studs with the DC04 clips, putting 2 layers of drywall on top of the frame and attaching the tv mount to this isloated frame. This frame would rest on pony wall so the load would be supported by that and the 4 DC04 clips at the bottom and top of the frame. What do you think?


Not that you asked me, but your saying you would build a drywall panelled frame clipped through your wall system to the framing on the existing wall? That would work from a structural standpoint. I would think attaching to the RC rather than the studs might be preferable or at least easier with this approach. I'm sure Ted can weigh in on this. 
From an architectural standpoint the edges of the panel could be finished to within a small reveal next to the rear wall and ceiling with some taping l-metal for a neat appearance. 
I'm curious if you left a gap between the drywall on the exterior wall system and the sill line? If so how did you treat this?


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

If you isolate the upper framing I would still rest it on that short knee wall.


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## falvaradob (Jan 8, 2012)

What a timely thread! I was just thinking about this last night!

Ted, you mentioned that is all dependent on TV size. I am in the process of building my HT and I am using isoclips to decouple. Due to extremely tight budget I decided to go with single drywall and give it a try before deciding if a second layer is needed. 

Anyways, I am planning on getting the LG 55LW6500 and it weights around 48lbs. That is far less than one sheet of drywall and the configuration of clips I am using is good for up to three layers. Why is it a problem to hang a 48lbs TV when the wall configuration can easily hold another two layers of drywall??


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

Sorry I missed replying to this! The drywall weight is spread out pover 32 square feet. The mount for a monitor doesn't spread out the load, so a few clips / channel will be strained to overload.

Thanks!


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