# CSS SDX15 Mounting Question



## 1999cutiger (Sep 11, 2008)

I just recieved my CSS SDX15 subwoofer and I am shopping around for some suitable mounting screws. I know that I am supposed to use T-nuts, but I am not sure if there is a specific screw I am supposed to use. The mounting holes on the subwoofer a deeply recessed and it is hard to see what type of screw head is needed to sit flush. If anyone can point me in the right direction I would greatly appreciate it. I know some people use the black hex head screws. Are these necessary?

Thanks!


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## Bent (May 24, 2006)

using hex head (allen style) wll help to prevent you from slipping with the screwdriver and sending the tool through the driver's surround.


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

1999cutiger said:


> I know that I am supposed to use T-nuts,
> 
> I know some people use the black hex head screws. Are these necessary?


according to some post I read the use of T-nuts and Hex screws is not necessary ...some people have used wood screws; I think it will depend on what material (MDF, plywood, etc.) you're using.

That's my opinion ...let see what the experts say ...:hide:


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

Bent said:


> using hex head (allen style) wll help to prevent you from slipping with the screwdriver and sending the tool through the driver's surround.


:rubeyes:, and if that happens, Can you fix that damage??? :whistling:


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## Bent (May 24, 2006)

David - is that the voice of experience?

I haven't had this happen to me, as I used hex-head screws in both of the enclosures I have mounted drivers in.

10-32 black oxide machine thread screws on my AS-15 Klone with t-nuts and 8-32 hex-head black oxide wood screws on the Heretic II.


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## Canadian_Dude (Jan 24, 2008)

I remember one time I was putting in a 8" speaker with phillips screws and slipped and punctured the surround. I noticed no difference between the other one that was fine, after a few years I tried to find the hole and couldn't even find it. This was on a foam surround though rubber might be different. For my SDX-15 I used #10-32 and #10-24 because I ran out of the 32 TPI because I stripped them. I think the 24 TPI is better because the threads are stronger and won't strip as easy. I don't like using t-nuts but I don't think I have much choice, I wanted to be able to remove the drivers a bunch of times if I had to, without worrying about stripping the wood.


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

Bent said:


> David - is that the voice of experience?


Sorry for the late reply ..."Better late than never" :bigsmile:

You won't believe it, but yes ...I just finished my Sonosub and had to remove the driver to make a new wire connection (driver was brand new, never used) and suddenly :wits-end: (I almost :boxer: myself).

It has a foam surround, so what I did is to use a little black tar (same used to patch roofs when leaking), I've been playing and haven't noticed anything wrong, yet raying:.

My advise to other newbies like me: "BE CAREFUL WHEN INSTALLING/REMOVING THE DRIVER"


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## beolson (Jan 16, 2009)

I used 1" #6 wood screws to mount my SDX-15. I'm no pro but it seems like the mount is good and I don't have any leaks or other issues that I can find. I bought a bag of 100 screws from PE for about $3. Good luck.


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## XipeTotec (Jan 27, 2009)

I wonder if the size of the sub would have any bearing? I mean some of the monster 18 inch sub have got to put more stress on the mounting screws! I have worked with MDF for a while and as long as you dont strip the hole the wood screws should work, but a T-nut would be best!


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