# Noob seeking DIY help with advent experiment



## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

I've run across a set of advent laureates for 30 bucks and I'm looking at them as 15 dollar cabinets for a first time DIY project. 

I’m currently thinking I’ll have an internal volume of 1.4 cubic feet after adding bracing to the cabinet. Using winISD I’m thinking of adding two 2” diameter 4.7 inch long ports to vent the cabinet to 44hz and using Fountek FW168 as my drivers see winISD attachment. For those more familar with winISD let me know if I've made any mistakes plotting the Fountek speakers.

From what I've read so far I’m thinking the tweeter would need to cross over to the woofers at ~2500 hz to allow for 5.4 inches of separation between the tweeter and driver.

The woofer that I think I'm going with is:

*$45 - Fountek FW168 6.5" Aluminum Cone Woofer*

Nominal Power Handlng 50 W rms Nominal Impedance 8 Ohms 
Sensitivity 1W/1M 87.3dB Frequency Response 40-4,000Hz 
Resonant frequency 45Hz Magnet System 
Magnet system type ferrite Magnetic Gap Height 5.8mm 
B Flux Density 1.0T Bl Product 8.2Tm 
Max Linear Excursion 4.6mm +/- Voice Coil 
Voice Coil Diameter 36mm Voice Coil Height 15mm 
Voice Coil Former Black aluminum Voice Coil Wire copper round 
Number of Layers 2 DC Resistance 7.2 Ohms 
T/S Parameter Cms 0.821mm/N Sd 119cm^2 
Vas 16.5L Mmd 13.955gm Mms 14.7gm Qms 3.246 
Qes 0.452 Qts 0.397 

Below are the three tweeters I'm considering for the project:

*$34 - SEAS Prestige 22TAF/G (H1283) Alum/Magn. Alloy 22 mm Dome*

Nominal Impedance 6 Ohms Voice Coil Resistance 4.9 Ohms
Recommended Frequency Range 2500 - 30000 Hz Voice Coil Inductance 0.05 mH
Short Term Power Handling * 180 W Force Factor 3.3 N/A
Long Term Power Handling * 80 W Free Air Resonance 1100 Hz
Characteristic Sensitivity (2.83V, 1m) 92 dB Moving Mass 0.23 g
Voice Coil Diameter 19.5 mm Eff ective Piston Area 5.9 cm2
Voice Coil Height 1.5 mm Magnetic Gap Flux Density 2.0 T
Air Gap Height 2 mm Magnet Weight 0.25 kg
Linear Coil Travel (p-p) 0.5 mm Total Weight 0.5 kg

*$33 - SEAS Prestige 27TDF (H1211) Textile Dome*

Nominal Impedance 6 Ohms Voice Coil Resistance 4.8 Ohms Recommended Frequency Range 2500 - 30000 Hz Voice Coil Inductance 0.05 mH Short Term Power Handling * 220 W Long Term Power Handling * 90 W Free Air Resonance 900 Hz Characteristic Sensitivity (2.83V, 1m) 92 dB Moving Mass 0.37 g Voice Coil Diameter 19.5 mm Eff ective Piston Area 7.5 cm2 Voice Coil Height 1.5 mm Magnetic Gap Flux Density 1.8 T Air Gap Height 2 mm Magnet Weight 0.25 kg Linear Coil Travel (p-p) 0.5 mm Total Weight 0.5 kg

*$89 - Fountek NeoCd3.0MS-blk 3" Ribbon Tweeter - Rectangular - Black*
(never heard a ribbon tweeter so slightly currious since madisound has the woofer and tweeter combined in KIT)

Ribbon material: Enforced sandwich Ribbon mass: 18mg 
Ribbon dimension: 8mmX60mmX0.02mm Ribbon area: 480square millimeters 
Gap flux: 0.6 Tesla Gap height: 3mm Impedance: 7 Ohm DCR: 0.02 ohm 
Sensitivity: 95dB/M/W Frequency response: 1,400~40,000Hz 
Resonance frequency: 400Hz Power handling: 17W Normal, 40W Max 
Recommended crossover frequency: 2,500Hz / 2nd-Order

So the million dollar question is what tweeter would folks recommend and what crossover designs would be recommended as a starting point for the speaker?


Thanks for your time
Jay


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## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

2500 Hertz | 6 Ohm Tweeter | 8 Ohm Woofer 

Using the parameters above what does the schematic look like for a textbook 3rd order high pass and 2nd order low pass Butterworth crossover? I was looking at an on line design calculator that yielded schematic for each type for the entire circuit but I wasn't sure if the schematics could essentially be cut in half using the high side of the third order with the low side from the second order.

Thanks
Jay


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## dyohn (Apr 17, 2008)

I love the Fountek Neo 3.0 ribbons and am currently using them in my home theater. I have then crossed much higher than 2.5K though as my design is 3-way, and I believe 2.5K is about as low as you'd want to push them. I also really like the Seas 27td fabcir dome. Not so much the metal dome.

A rough schematic of what your desired Xover network would look like the attached image.


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## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

For the low pass side of the cross over does anything need to be done to compensate for the fact the speaker has dual woofers for impedance values? I’m assuming the dual woofers are wired in parallel when connected to the crossover. 

Thanks
Jay


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## dyohn (Apr 17, 2008)

The network just wants an 8-ohm woofer, it does not matter how many are used to get to 8-ohms. The Fountek woofer you list above is an 8-ohm nominal woofer so two in parallel will create a 4-ohm load. Also realize the schematic above does nothing to address the sensitivity differences between the drivers...


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## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

Double check me since I'm using an online calculator but it looks like my Lpad values are the following: 

R1= 2.51 Ohms in series to the tweeter. 1.6 Ohms
R2 = 8.36 Ohms in parallel to the tweeter. 16.46 Ohms

I'm taking a stab the online notch filter to see what it does as well will edit with additional info shortly. wired in parrallel to the tweeter.

Capacitor
C = 33.37 uF
Inductor
L = 0.83 mH
Resistor
Rc = 4.8 Ohms

Again thanks for the help
Jay


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## dyohn (Apr 17, 2008)

L-pad: To pad the 6-ohm Fountek ribbon to match that woofer (one woofer) will require 7.7db of attenuation. Those values would be R1 = 3.53 ohms, R2 = 4.21 ohms. If you're using 2 woofers in parallel (realize the Xover network above is not for two woofers in parallel) the L-pad only needs to attenuate 4.7db, so R1 = 2.51 and R2 = 8.36.

What sort of notch filter are you trying to design?


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## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

dyohn said:


> L-pad: To pad the 6-ohm Fountek ribbon to match that woofer (one woofer) will require 7.7db of attenuation. Those values would be R1 = 3.53 ohms, R2 = 4.21 ohms. If you're using 2 woofers in parallel (realize the Xover network above is not for two woofers in parallel) the L-pad only needs to attenuate 4.7db, so R1 = 2.51 and R2 = 8.36.
> 
> What sort of notch filter are you trying to design?


I was thinking that the cross over schematic would only need a 4 ohm resistor added in series to support having the other woofer in parrallel?

I decided to try to solve for the SEAS Prestige 27TDF to save about $100. (I've got 500 to play with for the project 470 after the cabinets) I'm thinking of trying to build the crossovers on two different boards in case at some point I'd like to try to switch to a different tweeter or need to only make tweeks to one side of the X-over at a later point. 

I was using 6 ohms and 4.7 DB as what I needed to adjust for. I'd read it before but forgot that the woofer sensitivity value would change due to having dual woofers... Catch 22 is I don't know what the DB value should be considered from having them doubled up?

The notch filter was based on the calculator at diyaudioandvideo series notch filter using an Re of 4.7 and fs 1100. I wasn't sure if one would be needed or not but was following there steps for building a textbook crossover. I figured textbook would at least be in the ballpark and at some point if I got the equipment to measure the speakers or took them to someone that had it already I could go from there...

Thanks for your time
Jay


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## dougc (Dec 19, 2009)

Funny you mention it, today I finished turning my Laurettes into some new machines. I chopped off the bottoms to make them 24" tall and chopped off the back to make them 7" deep. Routed the two woofer holes to accomodate 7" RS180s, sealed it up, sanded, stained. I used the Advent crossover and tweeters. I don't have any scientific data to throw at you as far as that, but they sound very nice. They will tide me over until I can build some nicer ones. I plan to attach them to the wall on either side of the screen.


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## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

Doug,

I'd considered trying to save the tweeters but I don't know what they're spec'd for so figured it would be best to re-design the X-over and swap the tweeters out. I like the look of the cabinets so figured I could have a nice looking and hopefully performing speaker by the time it was all said and done. 

Glad your driver swap / advent mods yielded good results.

Take it easy
Jay


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## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

David, 

Do you think a better option would be buying the madisound kit with which includes the Neo 3.0 ribbons, woofers and 3500hz assembled crossover for $300 and then buying (2) 4 ohm resistors 2 more woofers? 

My concern was that I'd have a distance greater than 3.9" from driver center to driver center which seems to be in conflict with the kits 3500Hz crossover. "The generally accepted maximum center to center distance between the two drivers is equal to one wavelength (13,560) at the proposed crossover frequency. Max center to center distance = 13560 / crossover frequency" Not sure how hard and fast a rule this should be treated as?

Since I don't have the measuring equipment I'm wondering if I should take the kit path until I could later try to optimise the crossover. by measuring the system performance.

Thanks
Jay


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## dyohn (Apr 17, 2008)

I do not recommend using a resister in series with the woofer(s) to try and create an 8-ohm load. Just use the correct component values calculated for the 4-ohm load of having two woofers in parallel. The inductor would be 0.36mH and the capacitor 11.25uF.

I'm not familiar enough with whatever design you're building to comment on the need for a notch filter. Usually those are to help tame resonances or other FR issues with the driver, and I don't know the Fountek woofers well.


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## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

Perhaps one last question... What would I need to do if I wanted the speaker to have an 8 ohm load on the reciever? Is there away to add a resistor without impacting the cross over's circuit? How do commerical two ways with multiple woofers pull it off?

It looks like there's cash left in the budget for trying out the Neo's so I'll work on the parts list and crossover for that later tonight and attach them as well. The damage so far looks to be around $380.00 with the seas tweeters. 

Thanks 
Jay


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## dyohn (Apr 17, 2008)

If you want an 8-ohm net load on the amplifier you'll need to use only one woofer, or two 4-ohm woofers wired in series or two 16-ohm woofers in parallel, and you'll need to use an 8-ohm tweeter. Most amps that are designed for an 8-ohm load will handle 6-ohms OK, but they may have trouble with 4-ohms.


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## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

David,

Nice thinking I'd gotten locked in on the idea that the woofers were wired in parrallel. I picked up the speakers this morning off craigslist and have them gutted. The cabinets and grills were in better shape than I'd expected. After measuring inside the cab I got a box volune of 1.45 which was a pleasent surprise the the cabinet walls were thicker than expected. The area that the crossover was mounted in has a plastic section that can be screwed in and out which will be convient for getting to the crossovers for later tweaks.

On the down side I've measured the the distance between the tweeter center and the woofer center and came away with a distance of 6 inches so I'll need to lower the crossover to 2100Hz. The area that the crossover was mounted in has a plastic section that can be screwed in and out which will be convient for getting to the crossovers for later tweaks.

Mounting new tweeters will be a bit of a challenge Advent cut a 4" by 4.5" circle into the area covered by their tweeter mounting plate. Right now I'm thinking my best bet would be to look at Usher 9930C-15 tweeters from parts express to see if the tweeter could be liberated from it's mounting plate and attached to the advent plate.

I'll post more as I make progress

Thanks for the help
Jay


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## dyohn (Apr 17, 2008)

Be careful un-mounting a tweeter from its mounting plate as some of them will simply fall apart in your hands if you take off the front. I have not tried disassembling an Usher (very nice tweet by the way.) You could use a router and simply make the opening the correct size for the tweet you want to use.


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## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

Thanks for the warning I'm going to call PE to see if they can let me know the distance of the screws for the face plate but looking at the cad drawings in the PDF and scaling the size so the measurements agree with a ruler it looks like the usher's screws for the plate are 1.75" apart which would be a match for the face plate.

As for the routing I'd need to either buy a router or take them to a friend or a relative. A part of me would like to keep the stock apperence with new drivers and crossover from an apperence standpoint but if I end up altering the front of the cabinet I'm going to seriously consider Zaph's waveguide for the tweeter. It would help cover up all the orignial mounting for the face plate etc. My thinking is once I've crossed into cutting into the baffel might as well go all the way.

Also tinkering with the crossover I'm thinking of crossing the woofers seperately using the same components to stay at 8 ohms. Are there any problems with crossing the woofers seperately?

Thanks
Jay


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## dyohn (Apr 17, 2008)

Well, sure you could build separate filter networks for each woofer, but there really is no point in doing that since once you connect them both to the amplifier it's still a 4-ohm net load, plus you will have purchased twice the number of crossover components. While the FR curve of those Fountek woofers looks pretty good, you just can't use 2 of them and maintain an 8-ohm net for your amp. 

As far as modifying the front baffle of the speaker enclosures that is part of the fun of DIY. You can do almost anything you like with the woodworking and you're only limited by your skills.


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## jackfish (Dec 27, 2006)

While DIY is fun, I think you are not going to get any better results than just refoaming the existing woofers and maybe a crossover recap. The Advent Laureate ferrofluid parabolic soft dome tweeter is pretty good and the cabinet was acoustically matched to those woofers (same as in the Baby Advent I believe). Low frequency extension will reach down to 34Hz at -8dB, 42Hz at -3dB. The lowest note on a bass guitar is 42Hz.


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## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

I talked with Parts Express and they measured an Usher 9950 and let me know the mounting/faceplate plate screws were 2 3/8th's inches center to center which is what I get when measuring the advent faceplate. So it looks like 9930 is a viable option for the tweeter.

On the woofer front, after plugging several speakers into winISD, I'm now looking at the Silver Flute W17RC38-S-04 and the Dayton DC160S-4 as 4 ohm options. Of the two drivers in winISD the Daytons looks like they would be slightly flatter and would go deeper*. On the other hand the Silver Flutes seem to be very well thought of from everything I've read making it a tough call between the two.

As for probably not getting better results than re-foaming I might not but I'm looking at this as an enjoyable learning/troubleshooting process that I'd not get from putting a kit together or re-foaming. I'll concede that building an SR-71 kit with cabinet or Tritrix kit with cabinet should result in a better speaker for the money spent.

On the crossover front if I'm making a zobel for a crossover with two in series woofers should I double the Re and Le values for the speaker?

Thanks
Jay

*One handed typing while making over the baby but will try to get winISD plots up later


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## 1Michael (Nov 2, 2006)

Exchanging one driver for another requires a completely different Xover...


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## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

I called Madisound about ordering the silverflutes yesterday and they discouraged me from wiring the woofers in series in general they felt the better option was to bite the bullet and build a 4 Ohm speaker. I was told in general I could wire them in series but from their experience the results are usally subpar. So I'm back to going with the Fountek FW168 woofers. My main reciever is an HK 635 so it should be able to handle them... My other older Kenwood reciever might not be as lucky but when they are hooked up to it upstairs I'll baby the reciever. 

Rather than take apart the Usher tweeters and use the advent tweeter plate I'm going to use the SB Acoustics SB29RDCN-C000-4 tweeter. Since the plate for the SB accoustics is 2.83" in diamter I 
figured I could make a couple of plates to mount the tweeter into. The first external plate mounts where the advent tweeter plate was. The other oddly shaped internal plate would have the tweeters mounted to it and then would be glued and bolted to the external plate. I'm waiting for the tweeters 
to arrive before attaching the two plates together. Once the plates are joined together (and the temp gets out of the teens) I'll primer and paint them black.

I decided to have madisound use leaf to get me into the ball park for crossover design I'll pass along what they suggest once I've heard from them for review.

Tuning question for the cabinet is it acceptable to tune the cabinet below the the speakers FS frequency? In winISD the best tuning point seems to be 44 Hz for the flatest plotting although 43 and 42 also both look promising. I was originally thinking a cabinet shouldn't be tuned at or below the speakers FS for some reason.

Take it easy
Jay


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## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

Madison sent back the crossover design and the projected leap measurements. The woofer's responce in leap surprises me in that the plot seems very exagerated from the winISD projection. The leaf tuning was based on 48 hz so I'm wondering if I'd be better off trying a tuning of 42 since winISD projects a slight decrease in bass responce with the lower tuning?

Take it easy
Jay


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## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

Parts arrived last night which leads to a question on Woofer mounting depth vs width of the ledge to seat the woofer on. I'm going to need to use a router to make rabbet the cutouts for the woofers 1/4" wider.

The depth of the original recession cut out for the woofers is ~1/2" by a 1/2" wide looking at the woofers I'd estimate that I'll need a depth of 1/8" for the woofers mounting plate to be flush with the baffle. The question I have is if 1/4" width is enough for the woofer to be seated on? 

Or would it be better to seat the woofer deeper into the baffle thus having more support for the woofers to be mounted to but then having more baffle extending above the woofer?

Either way I'm thinking I'll be using a dremel to cut away and sand down some of the original ledge for the speakers to make room for the woofer baskets. I'll make it work but now can see why it'd be easier to start with a baffle without anything mounted in it and wasn't in a cabinet for access to the backside.

Thanks for the help
Jay


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## 1Michael (Nov 2, 2006)

1/4 inch is not very much to sit on...but if that is what you have to work with, glue some 3/4 X 3/4 X 3" hard wood ,like oak, to the inside of the baffle, drill the woofer holes through this, and bolt the woofer to this piece. Does this make sense? Flush mount the woofer.


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## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

Buggers, 

I could rabbet down further into the baffle to have a larger "shelf " to sit on since that would get me to the previous speakers mounting depth but the speaker would no longer be flush with the cabinet. I'm debating leaving some of the old "shelf" in place and perhaps making a ring or several stand offs that would help support the speaker.

My first thought was to get serval pieces of hobby shop wood dow that could be glued to the wall and lower shelf on end and then the speaker would sit on the dows and the freshly rabbeted shelf. Then next thought was cutting and gluing A hundread or so dowls into place for each of the woofers would get very old very fast.

Another thought I'd had was buying strips of wood that could be wet down, bent and allowed to dry in the cabinet's circles and sanded flush with the rabbeted shelf. Dismissing the I think routing out rings would work better.

I've got a fair amount of 3/4" plywood and 3/4 " course and fine MDF in the garage so another thought is to make a 1/4" thick rings out of the the fine MDF that the woofer could sit on along with the freshly rabbeted shelf. Get the MDF ring flush with the the pecan wood and then pull it out and glue it in place.

The easiest but I'm afriad perhaps subpar option would be to rabbet down to the old shelf and install the woofers at the same mounting depth that previous woofers were installed at. which would endup mounting the woofers slightly maybe 1/4 of an inch beyond flush with the baffel after adding foam tape etc... If the woofer is slightly beyond flush should the baffle walls be rounded over?

Take it asy
Jay


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## 1Michael (Nov 2, 2006)

Maybe I'm not understanding the situation correctly...can you post a drawing of the holes already existing, and the hole you need?
Are you saying the existing shelf is currently 1/2 inch deep? If so that will not work...


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## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

I'll try to get a picture of it up tomorrow I was starting to move too fast trying to get done prior to running out of daylight. I was thinking I'd screwed up a rabbet cut but it looks like it ended up being right when I measured it. 

The rabbet cut "shelf" originally on the speaker made by Advent is 1/2" deep. The majority of that shelf needs to be cut away so the speaker can drop in. I went ahead and did a 5/16" wide rabbet cut on Advent's rabbet cut to make a new circle for the bearing to ride against for the rabbet cut that would be made for the new speaker. I then starting the rabbet cut at ~ 1/4" deep for the new speaker to drop in when I had the router jump after I thought it was tracing the freshly cut rabbet. (the screw holding the rabbets bearing was obstructed and the jump actually was to where I should have been cutting) Having the router shift was enough mixed with the sun going down that I figured I'd stop and figure out what happend before I really screwed up.

I'm going to need to cut away some of the material that need to be trimmed in the middle tonight so I don't need to worry about having the rabbets set screw obstructed a second time. 

Take it easy
Jay


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## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

I got a couple of hours to work on the speakers a little more today the pictures are attached. The screws will have a 1/2 inch of wood to bite into so I think that will be ok. I'm not sure if I should add something to the stained ring since it would be under the speaker's mounting plate. I have the parts express foam tape for the speakers so I wasn't sure if I could just let that fill the gap or if I should try to add something more stiff to that ring.

I'll probably have to wait until next weekend to get more time for the project.

take it easy
Jay


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## dyohn (Apr 17, 2008)

You might consider drilling pilot holes and using t-nuts instead of wood screws. This can help prevent splintering and give you a more secure mounting. Plus, use weather stripping or caulk to seal the drivers to the baffle when you mount them.

T-nuts example


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## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

My one worry about the T-nuts is I'd think I'd need to have access to the back side of the baffle to really hammer them into place. While reading posts on T-nuts and H-nuts something I'd seen suggested and I am still mulling over is threaded inserts. I'd think I could install them from the front side of the baffle which hopefully would be easier since the baffle is already attached to the cabinet. I could screw and glue them in place.

http://www.amazon.com/1-4-20-Threaded-Inserts/dp/B001DSXJOW

Would caulk still be needed with gasketing tape? I bought a roll of the tape when I bought the 4 2" ports.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-540

Take it easy
Jay


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## dyohn (Apr 17, 2008)

Threaded inserts work great too. They're basically like t-nuts that are mounted from the front. You don't really need to hammer t-nuts into place. I usually use the bolts to pull them into position, tightening against a blank laid across the baffle. That gasket tape is perfect and no there's no need to use anything else.


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## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

I was looking at Zaph's blog data where he's using the SB29RDCN Tweeter with his MCM home brewed waveguide that has me debating a couple of things. I was really glad to see he tried this out because it was one of the options that came to mind while debating how to mount the tweeters. 

Looking at his blog made me wonder a couple of things though. One if I mounted the tweeter this way would the crossover need to changed? Secondly from looking at the graphs is this actually an improvement? It seams like more Db's were gained from 1K to 3K but it looks like there were more anomalies on the higher end of frequency response so I'm not sure how to take that.

SB Acoustics SB29RDCN Frequency response 
http://www.zaphaudio.com/temp/SBAcoustics_SB29RDCN-C000-4-FR.gif

SB29RDCN-C000 small flange neo in a waveguide
http://www.zaphaudio.com/temp/SB29RDCN-C000-4-MCMwaveguide.gif

I was really glad to see he tried this out because it was one of the options that came to mind while debating how to mount the tweeters. I'm thinking that it's an option I'll have to keep in mind for the speakers. Maybe I'd go with my home brewed mounts first to try them out and then decide if I'd like to try the waveguide.

Take it easy
Jay


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## Paul P (Dec 5, 2009)

Brewski said:


> My one worry about the T-nuts is I'd think I'd need to have access to the back side of the baffle to really hammer them into place.


A C-clamp (G-cramp for those in the UK) and a scrap of wood to protect the baffle works great for this. 
Just tighten the clamp and it drives the T-nut in. One thing I encountered while using T-nuts to install 
a guitar speaker was that the flange of the nut interfered with the basket of the speaker. I had to 
hacksaw off a piece of the flange for each nut. Not hard to do with tools but a bit of a pain. Worth it
for the great security and the fact that you can remove the speaker many times without worrying about
the screws eventually losing their grip in the wood.

Edit: One thing that may make things difficult working from the outside of a finished enclosure - I usually
drill holes a bit smaller than the spikes of the T-nut to avoid splitting the wood. The T-nuts are very close 
to the edge of the speaker cutout and the wood isn't all that thick so splitting could occur if holes aren't
drilled. I don't know how you could do that from the outside.

Paul P


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## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

I went ahead and used T-nuts to mount the woofers today and they seemed to get the job done. Unfortunately while at lowes on Friday I mistakenly only bought 8 nuts and 8 machine screws so I've only got one speaker up and running. 

I crossed my fingers and hooked the speaker up to the HK and thought they sounded fairly nice. The one thing I noticed is they don't crank out quite as much bass as the AS-F2's which shouldn't be much of a surprise considering the drivers sizes dual 6.5 vs. dual 8's. I don't have any measurement capabilties so I can only give a subjective evaluations of one speaker at this point. I played some tracks off of Jar of Flies, fumbling towards ectasy and a couple other disks. The bass in Jar of Flies sounded very tight with no hints of boominess and occasionally the bass could be felt in hardwood floors. Sarah Mclachlan's voice sounded very good Possession, Wait, and plenty all sounded good. The SB accoustics tweeter has a very nice tonality I'd read in other posts the tweeter described as silky sounding and not being bright from the 5 or so tracks I player I'd say it's an accuarate assement. In general I think it's a speaker that could be listened to for long periods of time without the fatigue associated with excessively bright speakers. 

Comparing these to the Athena AS-F2's my impression is it's a more neutral speaker that isn't as warm as the Athena but also doesn't energize the room the way the Athena's do. I think this is mainly a function of the size of the drivers and also I'm comparing one speaker to what I'm used to listening to at this point. 

I'll snag a picture of the one that's currently together and add it up later tonight. I'll also post a picture of them once I've been able to re-stain / paint them this spring. Thanks for the help.

Take it easy
Jay


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## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

The adventure took awhile but the Ruinations are done so I figured I'd bump the thread here with a link to the final build info and blogs over at PE. 

Final Crossover Components:
Tweeter Pass:
C9 8.2 uF
L9 0.15 mH DCR .23 ohms
C10 27uF
R10 2.7 Ohms
C12 4.0 uF
R16 3.3 Ohms

Woofer Pass:
L1 .80 mH DCR .43 Ohms
C1 .15 uF
C2 25 uF
R 3 8.0 ohms
L5 0.05 mH
C5 8.2 uF

.5 Woofer Pass:
L18 2.71 mH DCR .80 Ohms

Take it easy
Jay

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?t=221151


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