# DIYSG 1299 build



## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Here is my DIYSG 1299 build:
Ive wanted these speakers for a long time but never pulled the trigger. When I bought the speakers I currently have, I had them made into a tower speaker. They were originally bookshelf speakers from Elemental Designs. They have one Eminence Kappa Pro 12A and a B&C De250 Compression driver. When I ordered these, me and the ED guy threw around the idea of doing double 12 inch woofers. The price increase wasnt worth it at the time. Fast forward to now and I finally pulled the trigger on the 1299s!

My first issues before ordering were they going to be ported vs sealed, how would I finish them, and the big question: Will I keep the original baffle design or move the top woofer down which makes the waveguide sit up top. After playing around in winisd, I decided ported is the way to go. Also speaking to fellow 1299 owners that went sealed, they regretted it. If I ever want to use them without subs, I can. The plan right now is to prime and paint them with a light texture. Not real sure about duratex, but not ruling it out as of yet. As far as the baffle goes, I might keep the original design, but have a slot port at the bottom. I will have to extend the baffles 5 inches to accomplish this. Baffle is 40 inches tall.

I will post pics of graphs, unpacking, building etc..as we go.


Questions I had which Ill show pics and graphs when I first started:

*1. I want to build them ported mainly because everyone I have spoken with that built them ported, loves them, and the sealed guys regret it. Maybe I didn't speak to enough owners yet. *_Ported it is!_

*2. I like the look of the towers Kyle built by moving the woofer, but if that is going to cause me issues, I'm out. I want the speaker to sound like it should, So... on that thought brings this:
If i still want to build them ported and keep the ORIGINAL baffle layout, can i just add the 5 inches or so that he did to the bottom of the speaker and do the slot port? I don't care how big the port is, it just looks better to me. As far as the tune, I'm fine with 40 or more. They don't have to dig deep. I have dual 18 subs for that. But like to very occasionally listen to music. *_The "plan" is to go ported and tune them to roughly44-45hz. Played with this in Winisd._
*If I keep the original design, build the slot port, will the wave guide be ok sounding since I'm not sure where it falls compared to being seated. My seated reclined ear height is 32"-33" from floor, My seated ear height not reclined is 36"-37" from floor. (*_This might not be an issue now, since I have spoken with Ryan the designer of the 1299s and verified it will be ok to move the top woofer down. The waveguide might be moved up top, but Im still thinking keeping the original design._*)

3: Will building the left and right speakers ported still match up with the sealed center? Or should be port the center(I can go wider). *
_After speaking to a buddy about this, he said "if you are making the mains and surrounds ported, why not port the center also" Thats all I needed to hear!_

*4: Im purchasing 5 total kits, Left, Right, Center, L&R surrounds. If im cutting the wood, Im thinking it will be just as easy to make everything the same, so why not build the surrounds the same as the fronts? *_Definately going the same on fronts and surrounds unless something changes my mind before cutting wood._

My speakers:








Life of Bliss's design where he moved the top woofer down to the bottom, making the waveguide sit up top.


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Here is the progress post


Everything showed up packed GREAT!









Unpacked a baffle to see how it looked next to my cardboard mock up speakers.

















And...Here we go!


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Here is what 5 1299s look like. Lots of work ahead.


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

keeping the same tune on the center channel with two 1 inch ports. Is this ok?


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

just arrived:


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Going over the cutlist. I hope I did this correctly. Feel free to check my measurements. One question, Should I put the bottom and top "inside the other pieces? Wasnt sure it mattered. I think not having a seam all the way around the top would be easier to finish later. The other measurements are a different cutlist with the top and bottoms inside the box. Let me know what you guys think.

Boxes are 45 tall x 16 deep x 14.75 wide .75 thickness material. I think my measurements are correct:

Baffle is 14.75 x 45(will be extended 5 inches) This box will be 4.83648cuft total. 

sides 44.25 tall x 15.25 OR 45 tall x 15.25 deep
tops 16 x 14.75 OR top 13.25x 14.5
bottoms 13.25 x 14.5
backs 44.25 tall x 13.25 OR 45 tall x 13.25 deep


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Final box with center channel. Played around with different length ports. Didnt want to cut the port lengths something odd like 6.18 etc, so just made them 4, 5, or 6 inches.
The center channel is in RED. The main speakers are grey and purple with different ports lengths. These are all within 1 db or less of each other.


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## BP1Fanatic (Mar 28, 2011)

Subscribed!


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## Spy8181 (Sep 7, 2012)

Subbed


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Center and mains compared. Mains and surrounds will have a 5 inch length port, center has 6 inch length port


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Wondering if anyone has experiences with any of these. Im debating on just going with binding posts or terminal cups. Speakon is a distance second.


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## sealman (Jun 10, 2013)

nezff said:


> Wondering if anyone has experiences with any of these. Im debating on just going with binding posts or terminal cups. Speakon is a distance second.
> 
> View attachment 174181
> View attachment 174175
> ...


I have used the Dayton posts and the round terminal cup with the square face before. The Dayton posts are the easiest by far to install. However with that said all my projects that will accomodate them will get speakons going forward. Just too many benefits that outweigh the size of them.


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## sealman (Jun 10, 2013)

Oops I forgot to mention that these "uxcell 4 pin speakon panel connectors" are much easier to work with that the small square ones.


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Thanks. I ordered the right angle male plug from parts express, and the round female at bottom. See if I like them.


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Made a new piece for the tv stand which will have the tv "floating" above the center channel. I made one a while back for my original speakers, but it is going to be too short for the 1299 center at 14.75. This one was made 52 inches tall in order for the tv to be hung with final height being above the 1299 center. The 1299 center is quite a bit wider also, which will make the tv stand look not so big compared to the speaker. Also the width of the 1299 will cover up the 1x6s on final assembly.

I also "beefed" it up a tad by gluing and sandwiching two 1x6 pine together. I then kreg jigged the two center pieces to the side pieces along with glue. Sanded everything down from 150,220,400 then applied a coat of oil based Coventry wood sealer. After letting that dry, applied two coats of Behr Ultra interior satin "mouse ears" black. These are pics this morning of it drying.

(yes that is my current shop setup, which is not really a shop, but a cart garage. Hence the reason for finally building a metal shop in my backyard 30x30 with 15x30 patio)


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Work of art:
1299 crossovers done!


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## sealman (Jun 10, 2013)

Looks great!
Did you use screws with a nut on the back side for the large coils?


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Soldered. These were done by Matt Grant Mtg desings


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## sealman (Jun 10, 2013)

Ahh! I wish I had done something similar on my single 1299 instead of just using zip ties.


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

sealman said:


> Ahh! I wish I had done something similar on my single 1299 instead of just using zip ties.


This is the reason I let him do them. Him and Erich are the designers of those boards. He is the one that assembles them for DIYSG.


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

After 4 coats on mdf with a smooth foam roller. Roller grade duratex. Added a tad bit of water to the last coat. It covers well, but YES it is hard to make sure no roller marks. If you basically lay the roller on the surface and backroll with the roller just sitting on the surface. This is a test piece of mdf to see what type of finish Im going with. The texture is very very minimal by using a smooth foam roller. Next I will use the roller, sand with 400 grit to knock down the high spots, and roll again.


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## GPM (Jan 14, 2007)




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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Test two: Coventry oil based wood sealer/primer. (Very good product for bare wood) After this dries, going with mouse ears black in satin with a foam roller to have just a hint of texture. On a side note, I played around with another test panel and duratex. Applied a light coat, then sanded with 400 grit, then recoated. Roller marks are very hard to minimize with this stuff. It does seal the edge of mdf very well though.


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## sealman (Jun 10, 2013)

nezff said:


> Applied a light coat, then sanded with 400 grit, then recoated.


How did the Duratex handle being sanded and how long did you wait before sanding it?


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

sealman said:


> How did the Duratex handle being sanded and how long did you wait before sanding it?


I only waited maybe 45 minutes. It sanded extremely well. I have been in contact with the owner/inventor's daughter and talking back and forth about the product. It dries very hard.  The 4 light coats I put on yesterday dried hard. I definately want to use it, but not unitl I figure out how to keep the roller marks out. On these small test panels its easy, but a big cabinet, I could see a issue.


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## sealman (Jun 10, 2013)

A word of advice about Duratex drying times. Even though it may dry hard overnight and handling is okay at that point do NOT stack anything on top or leave the entire bottom in contact with another hard surface and especially not another surface painted with Duratex.

I learned my lesson from stacking my HTM12's. Keep in mind I stacked them overnight 2 WEEKS after they were painted.
Other people have reported similar issues well.


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Yes. I definitely know about that. A buddy on another forum did the same with his volt 10s and 1299. Peeled up.


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## BP1Fanatic (Mar 28, 2011)

Those crossovers came out nice as h3ll!


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## BP1Fanatic (Mar 28, 2011)

I have right angle speakons on my Rockville SPG88's.


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

BP1Fanatic said:


> Those crossovers came out nice as h3ll!


Thanks to Matt Grant. He does all the crossovers for DIYSG.



BP1Fanatic said:


> I have right angle speakons on my Rockville SPG88's.


I just got the right angle connectors in, so Ill be playing around with those and making them look "fancy".

My initial idea was to go 14 gauge 4 conductor and twist them on both ends and instead of cable pants, make "skirts"


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Just too hard to make duratex look really good rolling it. Granted I was using a fine finish foam roller and it was inky 4 inches. I think a larger one would definitely work better at evening the final finish out. 

Spray grade rolled vs roller grade rolled vs behr latex rolled. All thinned and unthinned.


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## sealman (Jun 10, 2013)

Which one is the streaky one on the 2nd row left side?

This one looks good to me.


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## sealman (Jun 10, 2013)

Here is what my latex looks like. Rolled with a foam 6 inch roller.


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

sealman said:


> Which one is the streaky one on the 2nd row left side?
> 
> This one looks good to me.
> View attachment 174236
> View attachment 174236


The one you have in your pic was rolled with foam roller oil wood sealer and behr mouse ears. The streaky on next to it in left was one I did not like. I brushed the oil sealer on but didnt sand it lightly to remove brush strokes. Then rolled latex on. Beulah stokes showed through so i redid it with rolling twice in right which has a tad bit of texture/orange peel.


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Made some dust! All panels cut out. Extra 5 inch pieces for baffle extension and some extra mdf for the bracing.(not pictured)


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

I have my boxes at 45x16x14.75 which is 4.836 cubic feet. How much would I be losing after woofers, seos horn, mids, and two window braces. Of course lining them with denim 1.5 inch insulation and the crossover board.

the displacement of the woofers is .158 total, and mids .028 total.

My box is 4.836 cubic foot as of now. Just wondering if I will be down to around 4ish or below, or higher.

thanks in advance.


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Here we go


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Dry fitting. 2.5 port on rear instead of front. 
45hz tune. Baffle will be extended 2.5 inches on each end for a total of 45


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## david yurik (Feb 17, 2013)

@nezff what was the delay? If I'm reading the posts right the wood was cut back in Sep 2020.


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

david yurik said:


> @nezff what was the delay? If I'm reading the posts right the wood was cut back in Sep 2020.


You know, life, work. Those things.
I bought new subs and need to make those too so I figure I would start on these. The.1299s arent a necessity because I have speakers already.


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Extensions added


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)




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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)




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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)




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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Top drying.


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

One snafu. Better to get it out of the way now 😜
Bearing came off right at end of cutting out port hole for center channel. Fixed with PC epoxy and flush trimmed today and then rounded over all edges until baffle gets put on.


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## sealman (Jun 10, 2013)

Looking at your recent pics and your solutions to clamping the port pieces was mind blowing. Lol that method just never occurred to me!


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

sealman said:


> Looking at your recent pics and your solutions to clamping the port pieces was mind blowing. Lol that method just never occurred to me!
> 
> 
> View attachment 175308


Thank you brotha. I keep scrap pieces of wood exactly for that when I started this project. I used them on top to even out the pressure while glue was drying


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Update. 
Center done. Edges rounded over and baffle glued on. 
Tower started:


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)




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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Center and Tower one done. Took the tower out and flush trim the extension. Opened up the port with a flush trim bit. Then round it over all the edges with 3/8.


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## david yurik (Feb 17, 2013)

nezff said:


> Opened up the port with a flush trim bit. Then round it over all the edges with 3/8.


How does the mdf route in your opinion? No issues to watch out for??

Dave


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

david yurik said:


> How does the mdf route in your opinion? No issues to watch out for??
> 
> Dave


Doing a round over is super simple. I use a Bosch 2.25 hp with ½ shank. Yonico and diablo bits.


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Tower 2:


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)




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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)




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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)




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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Tower 2 done. Ready for roundover and port cut out


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Tower 3 started


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Tower 3 done


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Tower 4 started:
Final speaker


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

I'm a 25 year firefighter so I work 48 hours straight. I just off this morning so I glued the last baffle on. After it dries, all towers getting flushed and rounded over.


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)




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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

1299s done 
Everything has been flush trimmed and rounded over. Now all that's left is finishing work.


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Filled and sanded


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Everything is done. Started on my gsg mini Marty subs.


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)




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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

2 down, 2 to go


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

This Graco HVLP shoots way better than I anticipated. Using #4 tip, turbo setting on machine at highest, gun setting 3-4 fluid and a tad over half on air. Shot spray grade @DuratexSupport with a 10psi hvlp NO THINNING.


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

I'm putting light coats over the boxes progressively and building it up to where nothing shows.. I know they won't be perfect but I'll get them the best I can.

As far as wood fillers I used the Elmer's color changing wood filler which works pretty good


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Towers started


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)

Velvet finish using higher air and tad less fluid on gun.


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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)




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## nezff (Jan 9, 2011)




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