# Help finding good speaker kit



## HTB2015 (Nov 24, 2010)

I'm wondering if anyone can think of a good 5 channel speaker kit for around a $1,000. I've been doing a bit of research and can only find speaker builds for bookshelf or floorstanding alone (i.e. Aviation or TriTrix)....center channel seems to always be left out. Wouldn't it be bad to mix speaker type(manufacturers,drivers) between your FL/FR and center? I would also like to blow the socks off of my 16x11, 1500cuft room. Would floorstanding be too much in there? Could I get enough out of all bookshelf? Thanks for any suggestions!

Jared


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## Guest (Jan 13, 2011)

Zaph Audio teamed up with madisound.com and has some pretty affordable HT kits.

https://www.madisound.com/store/index.php?cPath=35_425

The dayton classic audio drivers are decent, but not great. While the kits are very pleasing to the ears, they aren't actually all that flat and the drivers themselves get bashed a lot.

Another option could just be to get the behringer studio monitor speakers, because they beat any DIY kit in the same price range. Or, a lot more.


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## 1Michael (Nov 2, 2006)

Tritrix or Zaphs speakers would fit that bill.


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## fusseli (May 1, 2007)

You can just get the tritrix components, and assemble them in whatever cabinet you like. You could do a smaller sealed or vented setup for the center and surrounds and then the original TL floorstander for the two mains.

http://www.speakerdesignworks.com/Tritrix_pg_3.html


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## HTB2015 (Nov 24, 2010)

Hey thanks for all the info guys! TriTrix it is. One question though. Seems the Dayton DC28FS-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Shielded Tweeter is discontinued or no longer available. Can I substitute this with the Dayton DC28F-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Tweeter?? Will this conform to the specifications in the crossover/enclosure? Seems like the range for the DC28F goes 300Hz lower than the DC28FS, 1300Hz and 1600Hz respectively.


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## fusseli (May 1, 2007)

HTB2015 said:


> Hey thanks for all the info guys! TriTrix it is. One question though. Seems the Dayton DC28FS-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Shielded Tweeter is discontinued or no longer available. Can I substitute this with the Dayton DC28F-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Tweeter?? Will this conform to the specifications in the crossover/enclosure? Seems like the range for the DC28F goes 300Hz lower than the DC28FS, 1300Hz and 1600Hz respectively.


AFIK, non-shielded should be a fine drop-in replacement for the shielded. I think shielded versions will have slightly different parameters due to the shielding itself (E.g. slightly higher sensitivity and a different impedance curve) but the differences should be minor enough not to worry about too much.


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## Jstslamd (Nov 30, 2010)

I believe you could also use the aviatrix as an LCR type setup also just food for thought


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## HTB2015 (Nov 24, 2010)

Thanks for the suggestion. Could I use AviaTrix for LCR and have TriTrix surrounds, or will this be a bad mix of speaker design/model?


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## 1Michael (Nov 2, 2006)

Having the same speakers all around is the best, but that would be ok.


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## Gregr (Nov 2, 2010)

I wholly agree matched system drivers is the ideal but so isn't having a &10k speaker budget for "Magico or Focal or Dynaudio kits" What I will suggest is questionable, but hear me out, please.

I have alot of time on my hands lately and I am French (we are frugal) and I come from a long line of farmers (we make do) and my Dad could fix anything. I got some of that fix it as well/plus if it is made or housed/finished in wood I can build it or fix it most times better than the factory produced it. 

I still don't know what I want for the big investment but I have been looking around alot. I have $0 budget these days except what I have in my pocket..., so I have to look hard. Well here are my ideas/s.

Very often I have seen L/C/R speakers on ebay (sometimes seperately and sometimes together). Focal 716 Chorus pair w/center went for $6C about and they were beautiful..., I had no money &^%&*(^&%^[email protected], but this is the best part. I recently bought a pair of B&W DM303 ($289) surrounds (that I mostly use as mains lately) and they sound better than anybody could have described to me. 

B&W produced the DM302's the critically acclaimed 302's for about a decade before the 303's came out last year (don't quote me). The DM303's are bigger and heavier with a 6.5 mid that will produce down into the 70hz's or lower and the tweeter (so often overlooked in mass produced speakers) the tweeter is a "Nautilus" type with its long cone shaped damping chamber behind the aluminum dome. The damping chamber is inside the cabinet unlike the Nautilus speaker itself.

The B&W DM303's are what make this idea a realistic plan for me. These speakers need listening to. I am beside myself to describe the natural ability of these speakers to put me in the studio or the auditorium even when listening to MP3's. The sound stage is always believable the atmosphere is very often palpable. Anybody looking for new speakers..., if you have any time give these a listen. I truly believe many of you will be happy you did. 

My next step to try the different B&W speakers. Some of the [email protected] speakers are under $1k for a floorstander pair, but I don't know which I will like best. Time for a road trip. Actually I should..,

Greg


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## HTB2015 (Nov 24, 2010)

Ok so I've ordered the TriTrix L/R. I also added another set for the Center channel. So what about surrounds? Curt Campbell has a design for an enclosure with 1 woofer and tweeter. I'm assuming these would be a good selection because he uses the same woofer and tweeter as in the LCR. I'd hate to assume though only to find there was a better alternative. And it would be silly to make surrounds with the same design as the center channel, right?


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## fusseli (May 1, 2007)

HTB2015 said:


> Ok so I've ordered the TriTrix L/R. I also added another set for the Center channel. So what about surrounds? Curt Campbell has a design for an enclosure with 1 woofer and tweeter. I'm assuming these would be a good selection because he uses the same woofer and tweeter as in the LCR. I'd hate to assume though only to find there was a better alternative. And it would be silly to make surrounds with the same design as the center channel, right?


Ya surrounds in just an MT form would voice nicely with MTM mains and center of the same drivers (ideal scenario anyways). As long as you have the correct crossover it's a great idea!


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## HTB2015 (Nov 24, 2010)

Thanks. One more thing. Again, novice question I'm sure. It says the ported MT is better....yet no instructions/measurements about where to put the port. Can this port be any size and go anywhere? I would've thought this had to be calculated.


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## 1Michael (Nov 2, 2006)

Add a link to the project you are referring to.


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## skeeter99 (Jan 24, 2007)

HTB2015 said:


> Thanks. One more thing. Again, novice question I'm sure. It says the ported MT is better....yet no instructions/measurements about where to put the port. Can this port be any size and go anywhere? I would've thought this had to be calculated.


No it'll be specific. I'll see if I can dig it up for you. Curt is very thorough. Good choice with the TriTrix! Its supposed to be a fantastic setup!!

Scott


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## fbov (Aug 28, 2008)

HTB2015 said:


> Ok so I've ordered the TriTrix L/R. I also added another set for the Center channel. So what about surrounds? Curt Campbell has a design for an enclosure with 1 woofer and tweeter. I'm assuming these would be a good selection because he uses the same woofer and tweeter as in the LCR. I'd hate to assume though only to find there was a better alternative. And it would be silly to make surrounds with the same design as the center channel, right?


Actually, it would make great sense to make surrounds the equal of the others if you listen to multi-channel music, which tends to treat all speakers equally. The added power handling and sensitivity would get used on some pieces. 

If your goal is HT, an MT is fine. Porting will extend LF output, to make them more of a match to the towers. The port can go anywhere as long as the ends are ~1 port width away from any surfaces that could restrict air flow. Front is safe as the drivers need to be heard, too. 

Have fun,
Frank


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## HTB2015 (Nov 24, 2010)

Here's the link Michael,
http://www.speakerdesignworks.com/TritrixMT_pg_1.html
Scott, if you can dig up the port measurements that would be great. It's always nice to have a tested measurement. If not, I will probably be taking Frank's advise to put the port in an area about 1 port width away from any surface. Thanks for all the info it's much appreciated! Think I will post a new thread with pics from the build.

Jared


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## skeeter99 (Jan 24, 2007)

Here' a link to the design itself on Curt's site: http://speakerdesignworks.com/TritrixMT_pg_1.html

That doesn't give the box specs, at least from what I could find. I'd just email Curt direct and get the box designs straight from him. He's a super nice guy and always extremely helpful.

Scott


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## HTB2015 (Nov 24, 2010)

Will do, thanks.


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## fbov (Aug 28, 2008)

In DIY, you sometimes have to read between the lines. Here's the box diagram from page 2, at the bottom:
http://www.speakerdesignworks.com/TriTrixMTbox.gif

And driver placment is described in words on page 1:
"I calculated about the woofer to have about 7/8" between the baffle 
edge and the frame edge. -This is a center spacing of approximately 3 
3/4" from the sides and bottom. The tweeter also has about 7/8" 
between the the frame edge and the near side and top edges. I calculate 
it's center is about 3 1 1/16" from the top, and is offset approximately 
3/4"."

Box tuning calcs are straightforward if you have one of the simulators (unibox, WinISD), box volume and Theil/Small parameters (on spec sheet). In a surround application, an F3 of 85Hz is a pretty good match to a sub crossing at 80Hz. Or ask Curt...

If you need to add a port, check out the Karma Indignia's at PE's project showcase as the design is very similar to this MT.

HAve fun,
Frank


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## HTB2015 (Nov 24, 2010)

Took your advice and emailed Curt. His response is below. He says to put it directly behind the tweeter. I'll follow his directions 

"
Hi Jared, 

What measurements are you looking for? The port measuremnet from the BOM at my site:
260-388 PORT TUBE 1 3/8" ADJUSTABLE x 4" 
If you are referring to where it is on the rear baffle, anywhere directly behind the tweeter will be fine. 
If you are attempting to put it on the front baffle, it only will fit on one place on the baffle. I believe this was addressed by another builder on the PE forum. A search should bring that thread up. 

If you can't find the thread, let me know and I'll look as well...

C "


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## skeeter99 (Jan 24, 2007)

HTB2015 said:


> Took your advice and emailed Curt. His response is below. He says to put it directly behind the tweeter. I'll follow his directions
> 
> "
> Hi Jared,
> ...


Cool! I told ya Curt was a good guy


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