# Logitech Z-680 2-channel 'Upgrades'...??



## spdracer22 (Dec 17, 2006)

I have the Logitech Z-680 powered speaker/sub setup for my computer. My room is fairly small, I have a rather loud computer, and I never watch movies in there anyway. I do like to enjoy cd's/mp3's as I work, though. I really like the setup, and it's served me well, but I'd like to try and make it a little better for the type of listening I do now, if at all possible...

I have two questions, both kinda getting at the same thing-

A:

The setup has two stereo modes, 1X and 2X. In 1X, it uses the two fronts and the sub. In 2X, it uses the fronts, rears, and sub, but stays in 2-channel mode (both lefts get the same signal and both rights get the same signal).

What I'm wondering is if I can run some filters to essentially turn one left-right set into mids, and the other into highs. For the mids, I'd need a low pass or bandpass, and for the highs I'd need a high pass. 

I know I can find high pass 'bass blockers' for car stereos that would probably work for the highs, but what about the mids?


B:

I measured the 'static' voice coil impedence (multimeter, speaker disconnected) to be about 6.3 ohms, which, according to what I've read online, means the speaker is an 8 ohm speaker (6.3x1.3~8.19).

The amp is rated at 62 watts per channel for the 4 satellites. Is this enough to be able to swap out at least two of them for something like the Insignias, which are also 8 ohm, but rated at 120W max (according to BestBuy.com)? Would it be possible to bridge the two right and left channels?


Thanks guys for any help you can offer! Any other ideas are greatly appreciated as well!


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## Otto (May 18, 2006)

Hi there spracer22,



spdracer22 said:


> What I'm wondering is if I can run some filters to essentially turn one left-right set into mids, and the other into highs. For the mids, I'd need a low pass or bandpass, and for the highs I'd need a high pass.


You _might_ be able to get away with something like that, but I don't think it's going to make a lot of difference. Also using passive crossovers is going to eat to some of your amplifier's power.



> B:
> 
> I measured the 'static' voice coil impedence (multimeter, speaker disconnected) to be about 6.3 ohms, which, according to what I've read online, means the speaker is an 8 ohm speaker (6.3x1.3~8.19).
> 
> ...


I think this is a better approach. If you have some "normal" speakers lying around, give it a try. Just increase the volume gradually and see how it goes. You may well push the limits of your amplifier, which can cause damage to the speakers and/or the amp. However, if you keep it in its normal operating range, it should be OK. 

So, yeah, I recommend going with the bigger speakers.

If you decide that you are running out of steam at the amp, you can always buy a cheap second-hand receiver. That's how I've run the stereo by my PC for years -- a receiver and a pair of small PSB speakers and it works well.

Good luck!


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## spdracer22 (Dec 17, 2006)

Thanks Otto. I think I might just try some Insignias. They're pretty cheap, but I've heard good things about them.

If there's maybe another brand I should try out, let me know...


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## Otto (May 18, 2006)

Yeah, I've heard the Insignias, and they are great for the price. I have an old pair of PSBs in my office (I think they're the 40 mk II, and they're about 17 years old), and they're sweet. I see you can pick up the PSB Alpha B1 for about $200, those should be nice... I'm sure there are others in that price range that would work as well -- B&W, Paradigm, Energy, etc.

Good luck!


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## spdracer22 (Dec 17, 2006)

Ok, so I went out and got the Insignias.

A few things-

1. So far, they seem to be a definite improvement over the Z-680 speakers. They don't break up on the high end like the others did. Songs by my new favorite artist, Yello, are definitely more alive, and there's better balance across the range. I'm definitely hearing some things that I was missing with the Z-680's.

2. As expected, I have to run the amp at a higher volume to get the same output volume.

3. Always check the Best Buy website before going into the store. At the register, they rang up for $84.98. Since I asked, (they were definitely not going to do it on their own) they matched the price on the website, which was $59.48. All told, I paid $63.05, including tax, instead of the $90.xx they rang up the first time. So again, check the website first, since they'll price match, and it'll save you a trip back, and a lot of hassle, after you find you paid too much.


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## Otto (May 18, 2006)

Sounds like you have a good solution. Good job!

And it sounds like your Best Buy story is kind of like the ones I was reading about a while ago.


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