# First Shot at REW/BFD



## Splotto (Mar 14, 2007)

Hello:

Here is my initial graph of the set up.

Seems like I have a real issue at 45 hz and 90 hz.

I am working now with my BFD but I am seeing no change after loading the filters (midi connection).

I have double checked all the common issues I could find reading here. MIDI IN/OUT was lit, BFD was in STORE MODE, etc.

I will keep at it but would appreciate any advice.

Splotto


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## Otto (May 18, 2006)

Hi Splotto,

Sounds like you may have the MIDI problem. What version of firmware does your BFD have? You can tell by turning the unit off, then pressing and holding the "Filter Select" button as you power up. If you have v1.3, the device has a MIDI communication problem and you will have to enter the values by hand for now. Let's see what you have, and go from there.

Good luck.


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## Splotto (Mar 14, 2007)

Otto said:


> Hi Splotto,
> 
> Sounds like you may have the MIDI problem. What version of firmware does your BFD have? You can tell by turning the unit off, then pressing and holding the "Filter Select" button as you power up. If you have v1.3, the device has a MIDI communication problem and you will have to enter the values by hand for now. Let's see what you have, and go from there.
> 
> Good luck.


Arrrrrrggggg. I have 1.3. I will try entering them by hand for now.

Thanks.

Splotto


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## Splotto (Mar 14, 2007)

BTW.....two questions....I have 2 subs in my system.....the BFD feeds both. Therefore am I correct that I should have both the L & R engine lights ON? And should I be saving the filters to preset 1 on both engines?

Splotto


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## Otto (May 18, 2006)

Are they connected using two separate cables? Or are you using a splitter? If you are going "in" to the BFD on both the L and R channels (I believe they refer to them both as "L/R" as well as "1/2", for extra confusion), and "out" of "L" to sub 1 and "R" to sub 2, then, yes, you will have to use both banks of filters. 

If you are using a splitter out of _one_ side of the BFD and then _that_ goes to two separate subs, then you can use only one bank of BFD filters. 

If you are using the former method, then you will have to use both banks. Once you have loaded then for one channel (say the left), you can copy them over to the right by holding "Engine L" down, and then, at the same time, click "Engine R" once. You will see the number of filter light indicators match that of the left channel. I believe this is called "Couple Mode". You can verify that they are the same by scrolling throught the values. That should save you some time on entering filters.


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## Splotto (Mar 14, 2007)

Otto said:


> Are they connected using two separate cables? Or are you using a splitter? If you are going "in" to the BFD on both the L and R channels (I believe they refer to them both as "L/R" as well as "1/2", for extra confusion), and "out" of "L" to sub 1 and "R" to sub 2, then, yes, you will have to use both banks of filters.
> 
> If you are using a splitter out of _one_ side of the BFD and then _that_ goes to two separate subs, then you can use only one bank of BFD filters.
> 
> If you are using the former method, then you will have to use both banks. Once you have loaded then for one channel (say the left), you can copy them over to the right by holding "Engine L" down, and then, at the same time, click "Engine R" once. You will see the number of filter light indicators match that of the left channel. I believe this is called "Couple Mode". You can verify that they are the same by scrolling throught the values. That should save you some time on entering filters.


Hello:

Yes....2 separate cables. My Pre/Pro has 3 SUB OUT's. I run 2 of them to my BFD and then out to my 2 subs.

Thanks,
Splotto


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## Otto (May 18, 2006)

> Arrrrrrggggg. I have 1.3. I will try entering them by hand for now


Here's the thread about the v1.4 firmware upgrade.


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## Splotto (Mar 14, 2007)

Otto said:


> Here's the thread about the v1.4 firmware upgrade.


Yeah....I saw it. I won't be popping out the chip. I will just enter them by hand.

Thanks,
Splotto


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

Have you seen the discussions about using dual subs? Depending on your room, they can be difficult to equalize, especially if they are not co-located. Often you have to plot and EQ them separately. The reason I ask is that your relative depressions are pretty severe, especially the one at 45 Hz, and will be hard to equalize. Anyway you can experiment with different locations?

Regards,
Wayne


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## Splotto (Mar 14, 2007)

Wayne A. Pflughaupt said:


> Have you seen the discussions about using dual subs? Depending on your room, they can be difficult to equalize, especially if they are not co-located. Often you have to plot and EQ them separately. The reason I ask is that your relative depressions are pretty severe, especially the one at 45 Hz, and will be hard to equalize. Anyway you can experiment with different locations?
> 
> Regards,
> Wayne


No, but I will try that next.

I just manually entered my filters and I am still getting no change in the plots which is worrying me more.

I entered then into each filter, stored it as preset 1 and coupled it with the other channel.

Any other advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Splotto


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

> I just manually entered my filters and I am still getting no change in the plots which is worrying me more


Sounds like you’ve been bit by the kHz bug.  Is there a decimal point showing when you hit the “Frequency” button? If so, you’re adjusting too high – kHz, not Hz. You’ll see the tiny amber light to the right of the numeric display says “kHz.” Turn the knob counter-clockwise until the decimal goes away; the amber light will change to “Hz.” Now you’re in the low-frequency subwoofer range.

Regards,
Wayne


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## Splotto (Mar 14, 2007)

Wayne A. Pflughaupt said:


> Sounds like you’ve been bit by the kHz bug.  Is there a decimal point showing when you hit the “Frequency” button? If so, you’re adjusting too high – kHz, not Hz. You’ll see the tiny amber light to the right of the numeric display says “kHz.” Turn the knob counter-clockwise until the decimal goes away; the amber light will change to “Hz.” Now you’re in the low-frequency subwoofer range.
> 
> Regards,
> Wayne


Nah....I figured that part out. 

REW's filter table gives you the exact reading which made it easy (However, I was confused at first).

I am going to keep trying before I throw my laptop and SPL meter into the pool.

Splotto


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