# Time to replace my current sub



## slyfoxx (Mar 19, 2009)

It is time to replace my current sub, it is or should I say was an MK V125. When I think about it's at least 12 years old and has been great. But I am noticing that it's not performing which is too bad.
I am considering 2 (based on price and brand experience) 

Paradigm Servo15 V2 and SVS PB13-Ultra

My current system is all Paradigm, which I really I have no complaints but have been reading about the SVS line of subs as well and I am looking for some input on the comparison.

thanks in advance

Steve


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## tonyvdb (Sep 5, 2007)

No question, The SVS PB13 Ultra is the sub to go with. Matching the sub to your mains is not necessary at all. I have the PB13U and dont regret it at all.


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## drdoan (Aug 30, 2006)

The SVSound sub will do nicely. Have fun. Dennis


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## Pinhead-227 (Dec 24, 2008)

Is DIY out of the question?


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## slyfoxx (Mar 19, 2009)

Pinhead-227 said:


> Is DIY out of the question?


No it's not? I looked through some of the DIY that have been done, but to be honest I was a little confused.

If I could find a set of plans then I am sure I am capable... what would you recommend?


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## Pinhead-227 (Dec 24, 2008)

Considering the $1500 price tag for the PB13 Ultra, I would think you could get much more bang for your buck. 

You would need a driver, amp, and build a box. The first question is, how big of a box can you put up with? I have a feeling that with using the PB13-Ultra as a benchmark (both price and performance) and aligning the driver with the size of cabinet that you can use, we could put together plans for a much better sub at a much lower price point. 

If you're willing to allot space for a huge enclosure (17 or so cu ft) you could run an IXL-18.2.2 in an LLT enclosure tuned to 14 Hz and have an absolute monster. If you don't want to go that big, it could be tuned higher (say 17 Hz) in a smaller enclosure and still mop the floor with the PB13-Ultra.


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## slyfoxx (Mar 19, 2009)

Pinhead-227 said:


> Considering the $1500 price tag for the PB13 Ultra, I would think you could get much more bang for your buck.
> 
> You would need a driver, amp, and build a box. The first question is, how big of a box can you put up with? I have a feeling that with using the PB13-Ultra as a benchmark (both price and performance) and aligning the driver with the size of cabinet that you can use, we could put together plans for a much better sub at a much lower price point.
> 
> If you're willing to allot space for a huge enclosure (17 or so cu ft) you could run an IXL-18.2.2 in an LLT enclosure tuned to 14 Hz and have an absolute monster. If you don't want to go that big, it could be tuned higher (say 17 Hz) in a smaller enclosure and still mop the floor with the PB13-Ultra.


17 cu ft would be huge, realistically 12 - 15 or so cu ft. 17 cu ft measurements would be, so maybe


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## Pinhead-227 (Dec 24, 2008)

I re-entered the T/S parameters of the IXL-18.2.2 in WinISD Pro and it modeled a 14.7 cu ft box at 13.86 Hz (-3dB EBS) which should be more acceptable. 










And here is one that I believe is still for sale in the FS section of this forum.  

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/classifieds-speakers-subwoofers/17411-reconed-ixl-18-a.html


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## slyfoxx (Mar 19, 2009)

Pinhead-227 said:


> I re-entered the T/S parameters of the IXL-18.2.2 in WinISD Pro and it modeled a 14.7 cu ft box at 13.86 Hz (-3dB EBS) which should be more acceptable.
> 
> 
> OK, so now were getting a shopping list together. What then would you recommend to power this thing?
> ...


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## Pinhead-227 (Dec 24, 2008)

A little more information is needed, mostly about the "look" that you want from your sub. Do you want it down-firing? It would be easiest to put together a front-firing driver with end-firing ports.

Such as 

25.5x25.5x55 (0.75" MDF)
Dual 6" ports at 47.25 inches long

Driver on the long/tall face (55x25.5) and the port out the end (25.5x25.5).

Unless you want to use 90° elbows or a slotted port to get the enclosure closer to square.

EDIT: HERE is a perfect example of what you would be putting together to make a monster sub.

As for driving the sub, the EP2500 seems to be the standard on the forums. You'll probably need something between the receiver and amp, though, to increase the gain since you're hooking HT equipment (receiver) up to pro audio equipment (amp).


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## slyfoxx (Mar 19, 2009)

guess my thought would be closer to square, or I should say I could get that past the wife easier. 

Question regarding the EP2500, I assume based on the example the EP2500 is not inclosed with the sub like my current sub not that that would be a problem. Is this something you can set up as an auto on? If it receives a signal it powers on? or is this a manual on?


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## Pinhead-227 (Dec 24, 2008)

You'd be looking at approximitely 32-inch cube for about 15 cu ft. In this case, a folded slot port 2 inches tall x 30.5 inches wide by 49 inches long, would be needed which will slightly add to the complexity of the build. This keeps the peak port air speed below 24 m/s when driven to 850 watts at 13 Hz. 

To make it more simple, you could alternately use a 1-inch x 30.5-inch x 23.28-inch slotted port (which eliminates the fold in the port) but the peak port air speed would be 46 m/s at 14 hz. I have absolutely no idea if you would hear the "noise" with normal programming, though. To keep it safe I'd personally stick with the 2" slot port. Others with more experience at these tuning frequencies may have to interject here.


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## Pinhead-227 (Dec 24, 2008)

Here should be your final measurements for a 15 cu ft box tuned to 14 Hz.


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## tmoey82 (Mar 19, 2009)

Don't know much about diy, but the Ultra gets good reviews.


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## slyfoxx (Mar 19, 2009)

Pinhead-227 said:


> Here should be your final measurements for a 15 cu ft box tuned to 14 Hz.


That looks doable! Thanks for the help. You mentioned the EP2500 for the power and then I will also need something between that and my AV what is this you speak of??? 

This construction looks simple, am I missing something?

Some of the constructions in the DIY area are amazing!


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## Pinhead-227 (Dec 24, 2008)

I can't remember what the the electronic doo-hickey is called... It basically boosts the input sensitivity of the amp. 

How's your project going?


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## 93ext (Feb 15, 2009)

Essentially a Line Driver, I heard the Reckhorn B-1 boosts.


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## Pinhead-227 (Dec 24, 2008)

I think it was the Art Cleanbox or the Behringer Feedback Destroyer (BFD). The cleanbox will simply boost your signal but the BFD includes parametric EQ.


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