# How many of you built your own cables?



## Bent

I'm needing to do two runs of rg-59 for component video, anybody here build their owm video cables?


----------



## lcaillo

Only when I need a custom length. Good cables can be had cheap enough that it is not worth the trouble. What lengths are you talking about?


----------



## bpape

Agreed. Check out:

BlueJeansCables.com

or for slightly better specs and GREAT folks to work with

AVCables.com (GEPCO in house custom cable shop).

Pretty much everything I use is from AVCables. Unbelieveable specs and quality, excellent customer service, will make you cables for whatever you need down to the inch length at reasonable prices from quality components, and with a very quick turnaround.

Don't get me wrong, BlueJeans is a quality outfit too. But, for serious HQ video, there really isn't anything that can touch the AVC's IMO - especially for the money.

Bryan


----------



## Sonnie

I've ordered quite a bit from www.bluejeanscables.com ... www.apature.com is another good source for really inexpensive but quality built cables. I bought some really nice cables from John down there that were like 8 bucks each for 24"-30" lengths. 

I've not ordered any AVCables but heard good things similar to what Bryan states.


----------



## lcaillo

Also try www.cablesforless.com


----------



## lcaillo

We sell a lot of Apature and they are very good quality, too.


----------



## Cap'n Preshoot

Also for great prices on DVI and HDMI cables, check here
http://www.svideo.com

so far svideo seems to have the best prices I've been able to find on commonly std. length HDMI and DVI cables & adapters. They also offer free shipping and do not seem to gouge you for any of the more expedited shipping methods. 

Example, HDMI cables: 3' = $8.95, 6' = $14.95, 10' = $16.95

They also offer every other type & length of cable imaginable.

One of the engineers at a local tv station gave me the tip.


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

I make my own all the time. All kinds – RCA, XLR, 1/4” or combinations of the above. Even done some S-video. That’s the advantage of soldering that you don’t get with DIY crimped cables – you can make practically anything. 



> Good cables can be had cheap enough that it is not worth the trouble.


 Well, I can make a 10’ RCA cable with Canare stock and Neutrik connectors for _well_ under $10. Any of the on-line custom cable makers able to beat that? :bigsmile: 

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## bpape

Nope - but they have to make a profit. You're not counting what your time is worth. I've made my own in the past with crimps and/or solder. Anymore, I just don't have the time to do it. 

Now, in the near future, I may change that trend. I need some new AC cords and refuse to pay the outrageous prices some of the companies get. I'll probably spend a day making a few. It's a lot more economical and easier to justify when you're making a lot rather than just 1 or 2.

Bryan


----------



## Guest

I custom build cables for my clients when needed as well but with Apature and some other online companies sometimes its just not worth it. Ben send me a PM with what you need and we'll chat.


----------



## Darren

I built all my interconnects from Belden cable with locking RCA's for less than $75. It will save you tons to build yourself and it was terribly easy. In one afternoon I made 6 pair.


----------



## SteveCallas

Me thinks www.monoprice.com is the leader in terms of quality cables for the cheapest price. The RG6 component cables and ESPECIALLY the 24awg DVI cables are very impressive and very cheap. Overkill city.


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

bpape said:


> Nope - but they have to make a profit. You're not counting what your time is worth.


 Bryan, isn’t that the whole reason people DIY to begin with, because to them their money is worth more than their time? :huh: 

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## Rodny Alvarez

I build some of my cables and pay some to, this guys have a good price, my HDMI cable is 7.5 meters cost me $78.
http://www.lindy.com/us/catalog/08/06/02/index.php


----------



## RayJr

When I build component cables I use RG-6..it has less loss and better shielding then RG-58.

Later
RayJr


----------



## drf

I always make my own cables also. +1 for the RG-6 and get the quad shield if you can, it will have the best shelding of just about any cable you can buy. If you are going to make your own component cables then make sure you get the lengths of each cable the same. As far as cost goes, most of my cables don't cost anything as I install P.A's on the side I usually have leftover 100M rolls of cable and plugs/sockets lying around :bigsmile:.


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

> When I build component cables I use RG-6..it has less loss and better shielding then RG-58.


 RG-58? Who uses RG-58? :huh: 

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## majorloser

I used quad shield RG-6 with compression (not crimp) type connections for many runs. It just takes a little care to make sure you don't have any stray outer wires contacting the center wire after you use the stripper.


----------



## Bent

Isn't "RG-58" data network coax?


----------



## bpape

LOOOONNNNNGGGGG ago it was. Nobody uses coax for network any more. That MIGHT give you 1 megabit througput. Now everyone uses Cat5E at a minimum and if they're smart, they're running according to CAT 7 specs.

Bryan


----------



## Sonnie

Isn't there an RG-59 that's used for audio/video cabling? I bet that's what you meant to type RayJr, isn't it?


----------



## drf

rg58 is 50ohm coax usual used for data (sat, network 2.4gHzdigital) and rg59 is 75ohm coax used for aerials, video, etc. RG6 is general purpose 75ohm, yet better than rg59 in nearly (??) all applications.


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Sonnie said:


> Isn't there an RG-59 that's used for audio/video cabling? I bet that's what you meant to type RayJr, isn't it?


 Yeah, I’m sure that’s what he meant. RG-59 is basically for FM or TV antennas. RG-6 is for higher bandwidth signals like CATV or satellite feeds, although it can replace RG-59 in all applications. RG-59 is easily identifiable because it’s physically thinner than RG-6.

RG-59 is fine as an audio or video cable, like RG-6 is. Actually, for audio or video signals I can’t see where RG-6 offers any advantage, unless you were talking about a _really_ long run, in which case RG-6 has a thicker center conductor and should exhibit less loss. 

If you’re using coax for line-level audio or video, either RG-59 or –6, it’s best to use some with a copper shield, since the center conductor is also copper. However, that stuff can be hard to find. More typically shields are some kind of steel alloy, I believe (someone correct me if I’m wrong about that). Just seems wrong to me to have you signal (-) on a metal that’s not as good a conductor as what your signal (+) is traveling on, but at the end of the day, it probably all works fine.

Re RG-6 quad-shield, I’ve heard it doesn’t even have a copper center conductor, but a clad copper over steel. Don’t think I’d use that stuff at all for audio or video signal.

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## bpape

... and unless you're living right next to a tower or microwave transmitter, you probably aren't gaining anything over standard shield RG6. If you want good copper on both sides, Belden 1694A is kind of the standard for resonably priced quality RG6. It's great for analog and digital audio as well as composite or component video.

Bryan


----------



## F1 fan

Another good 75 ohm cable is the Canare LV 61S.It has a stranded center conductor and full outer sheild and is very flexable.Used with some Neutric RCA conectors it makes for an excellent audio/ video interconnect.
http://www.canare.com/index.cfm?objectid=0D01B44F-3048-7098-AF1C088D26068A8A


----------



## muse77

bpape said:


> I need some new AC cords and refuse to pay the outrageous prices some of the companies get.
> Bryan


Newark has shielded cordsets for about $14.00

A different Bryan


----------



## infrasonics

I've made plenty of cables, mainly using Belden 1694A with Canare RCA's and F connectors. I invested in the expensive Canare crimps and dies, and while they were not cheap I more than made up for it by constructing many sets of cables. My time was cheap, considering I did the cable construction while watching videos/TV. I like the ability to make the correct length and personal color coding of the boots/shrink wrap.


----------



## Prof.

Names like Belden and Canare cost an arm and a leg here..particularly when you need to have a number of 10M..runs..
I had never tried making my own cables before, but since my present setup required long runs, I decided to give it a try..
Always looking for the easiest way, I bought a roll of RG6 quad shield and a number of "twist on" F type connectors to RCA plugs..
Couldn't have been easier..The twist-ons require a bit of elbow grease, but once on they really hang on..and of course no crimping tool required..
I can't imagine any commercial cable would perform any better over that distance..


----------



## bpape

Your call - but I'd personally never use the twist ons. I want a SOLID, TIGHT, PERMANENT connection - which the twists aren't. The diff in price between that and the Belden/Canare combo - even with tools when doing lots of long runs is trivial in the grand scheme of things.

Bryan


----------



## Prof.

Well I guess I'm a bit of a miser at heart..If I can save a few bucks here and a few bucks there, and not suffer for it, then that's the general road I take..

But seriously (and I'm not calling Shirley!) do you think you are getting any better video quality, using those brand names than what I'm getting with my ghetto cables?


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

I used twist-on F-connectors back before I got a good crimper. They’re still in my system, ten years later. They will work fine for coaxial cable, as long as they’re installed on the cable properly, and as long as you know and respect their limitations.

First, I’ve had them fail when used in attics. So avoid that. Apparently they don’t do well with the constant changes in humidity and temperature (although I have no explanation why crimped connections wouldn’t have the same problem).

Second, I’ve seen them fail in situations where the connection is handled a lot. If you’re say, an equipment reviewer who’s always shuffling new gear in and out of your system, you should probably avoid using twist-on F-connectors.

Aside from that, they work fine in “set it and forget it” installations, such as in-wall cable TV outlets, and even in an equipment rack that’s only occasionally disturbed.

With any coaxial cable, proper installation of the F connector is what makes or breaks it. If the connection is bad, it’s usually apparently immediately, visibly, on the screen.



Prof. said:


> But seriously (and I'm not calling Shirley!) do you think you are getting any better video quality, using those brand names than what I'm getting with my ghetto cables?


 The only concern I have about your installation, is the quadshield you used. Really, quadshield is only needed if you happen to live in really close proximity to a high-powered broadcast tower. I guess extra protection never hurts, but from what I understand RG-6QS typically has a steel center conductor that’s copper plated. That’s fine for the RF signals the stuff was made for, and it probably isn’t affecting your installation one way or the other, but personally I just prefer solid copper for my audio and video signals. I generally prefer RG-59 mainly because it’s more flexible and easier to work with, and works just as well as RG-6 for line-level video signals.

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## bpape

Agree with what Wayne said. I've used them OK for pretty permanent things and for usage like a secondary cable TV hookup, etc. For my RGBHV, HD component video, SPDIF audio, etc - I'll stay with the crimp ons. 

If they'll fail as outlined above, then even in less strenuous situations, there will be a less tight connection that can allow air/moisture/corrosion to begin which is the bane of any signal that counts on impedance.

Bryan


----------



## Prof.

Wayne A. Pflughaupt said:


> I used twist-on F-connectors back before I got a good crimper. They’re still in my system, ten years later. They will work fine for coaxial cable, as long as they’re installed on the cable properly, and as long as you know and respect their limitations.


I totally agree and they can be a problem if not connected properly..My first attempt failed after following the advice that was given by the person that sold them to me..

After trying different ways of twisting them on, I found the right way of making the connection, and after repeatedly trying to pull them off again, could not budge them, so I figured that even if I did have to remove them from the equipment from time to time, they would be ok..





Wayne A. Pflughaupt said:


> The only concern I have about your installation, is the quadshield you used. Really, quadshield is only needed if you happen to live in really close proximity to a high-powered broadcast tower. I guess extra protection never hurts, but from what I understand RG-6QS typically has a steel center conductor that’s copper plated. That’s fine for the RF signals the stuff was made for, and it probably isn’t affecting your installation one way or the other, but personally I just prefer solid copper for my audio and video signals. .


I have major power lines that pass out the front of my place, so the RG6-QS is almost a must..



Wayne A. Pflughaupt said:


> I generally prefer RG-59 mainly because it’s more flexible and easier to work with, and works just as well as RG-6 for line-level video signals..


This is one thing I do find annoying with the RG-6..You just can't make tight bends with it..But all of my connections are behind the screen wall (except for the projector) so no one sees them...

I would prefer to use RG-59 particularly for the leads to the projector, but I don't know if they would give me sufficient protection from interference..


----------



## Prof.

bpape said:


> If they'll fail as outlined above, then even in less strenuous situations, there will be a less tight connection that can allow air/moisture/corrosion to begin which is the bane of any signal that counts on impedance.


Bryan..I had to use pliers to screw these things on..I don't think their going to move anytime soon...
What I did find is that not all RG-6 cable is the same diameter, so if it's not matched up to the twist on, then I agree, it's not going to be a solid connection..


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

> I have major power lines that pass out the front of my place, so the RG6-QS is almost a must..


That shouldn’t matter at all as far as having to use quadshield. EMI is only a problem if the electrical and signal cables are right up against each other (parallel) for a considerable distance.

Actually, I’m surprised you could find some twist-ons for QS... Maybe that’s why you had to use pliers to get them on? That shouldn’t have been necessary. :scratch: 



bpape said:


> If they'll fail as outlined above, then even in less strenuous situations, there will be a less tight connection that can allow air/moisture/corrosion to begin which is the bane of any signal that counts on impedance.


Well – ten years I’ve been using these, and I live in Houston. Not many places more humid that this! Air conditioning helps, I suppose. Not sure how moisture and corrosion can be issues with an indoor installation.

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## Prof.

Wayne A. Pflughaupt said:


> Actually, I’m surprised you could find some twist-ons for QS... Maybe that’s why you had to use pliers to get them on? That shouldn’t have been necessary. :scratch:


Wayne...The Belden cable was too big a diameter to fit the twist-ons, and I had to use a local brand of cable that was slightly smaller..Even then it was a tight fit...

While we're on the subject of video cables..one thing that I have always wondered is if the copper clad steel cored RG-6 cable has an impedance of 75 ohms..how can the solid copper core type still have the same impedance? Isn't video source equipment supposed to be matched to 75 ohm cable?


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Prof. said:


> While we're on the subject of video cables..one thing that I have always wondered is if the copper clad steel cored RG-6 cable has an impedance of 75 ohms..how can the solid copper core type still have the same impedance? Isn't video source equipment supposed to be matched to 75 ohm cable?


Actually, coaxial was designed for RF signals, not line-level video signals. It just happens to also be highly suitable for video. (It works great with audio, too.) We just prefer copper because it’s a better conductor for electrical signals. I also prefer that the shield be copper, too, but that can be difficult to find.

The center conductor really has nothing to do with the cable’s 75-ohm rating. As far as I know, that has more to do with the construction of the cable, but I’m not sure exactly what. I’ve seen 75-ohm-rated coax in a variety of center conductor metals.

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## bpape

Wayne.

Do a long term experiment. Take a pc of speaker wire and strip off a couple of inches of the jacket and just let it lay in a box somwhere in the house. Go back in a year and cut off an inch off the other end and strip that back a couple inches. Look at the difference. Moisture, corrosion (more correctly oxidation) are absolutely issues in a home. In your case (Houston) you're actually probably better than most since you likely run the AC more (which has a dehumidifying effect)

Bryan


----------



## FlashJim

Wayne, we might have to have a cable makin' party sometime.  I'd love to see how it's done.


----------



## wig

Wayne what kind of beer do I need to bring?


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

LOL - Scott, it would be hot by the time you get here! Just as well – ice tea’s my brew. 

Jim, I’m working on a “How to solder DIY cables” thread that I hope to have up next month. But you’re welcome anytime for a lesson. Basically, if you can do intricate work with your hands and have a keen eye for detail, you should be able to solder. :T 

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## Sonnie

Wayne A. Pflughaupt said:


> Just as well – ice tea’s my brew.


And he drinks about 2 gallons a day... NO.... I'm not kidding! 

Wayne did a fine job on the cables he built for me... he could definitely hold a class on how to build them... :yes:


----------



## blownrx7

A while back I made a set of 15ft component cables using DH Labs Silver Sonic video cable and some decent connectors (can't remember the brand). Nowadays, I would go with the bluejeanscables.com or the premium monoprice.com video cables. 
I came to the realization that there is a lot of hype with cables. I do feel a good quality connector is often the determining factor in cable performance.


----------



## wig

Wayne the Red diamond ice tea is the best.or maybe a long island. WIG


----------



## Jerm357

I made a RCA to 1/4 mono subwoofer cable from an old monster cable and Cardas parts from http://www.diycable.com/


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Well done, Jerm! Gotta love that color! 

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## Jerm357

Thanks. If you like that you'll love this.


----------



## Otto

Finished this up yesterday. Canare cable, Neutrik connectors, 18mm 3:1 heat shrink (will go with a smaller diameter in the future, but the 3:1 shrink ratio is good), 3/8" carbon Techflex. Looks good!


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Nice! Don’t you love those Neutrik connectors? What are you using it for?

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## Otto

Thanks, Wayne. Yeah, I like the Neutriks. The guts weren't the easiest to to work with. I like a hole in the outer crimpable part of the connector (where you'd connect the "ground"). Other than that, they're nice. The Techflex really makes them look professional to me. I'm using it for a center channel interconnect. Although I have balanced I/O, I've been experimenting with biamping, which was easier to do with the single-ended inputs on my amp. I also wonder about sound quality differences between the two, and _think_ it sounds better with single-ended connections, though I need to back and forth more. Anway, I was short one, and decided to DIY, cause they're so expensive to buy pre-made. I have enough ends for at least two more cables, so should getting better.


----------



## bpape

Nice job Otto. Those look really good.

Bryan


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Otto said:


> Thanks, Wayne. Yeah, I like the Neutriks. The guts weren't the easiest to to work with. I like a hole in the outer crimpable part of the connector (where you'd connect the "ground"). Other than that, they're nice.


Hmm, those must not be the same Neutriks I thought the were – the ones I like don’t have a “crimpable” part. 

I know what you mean about that hole, but really it isn’t terribly functional. When I worked for a pro audio company, I repaired more cables than I care to remember – countless dozens, mostly mic cables but others, too. You have to keep in mind that XLR connectors don’t have any holes like that, to stick the wire through and wrap it back, supposedly to make a stronger connection. The 1/4” connectors we used did have the holes, but we never used them. 

Why? You have to keep in mind that the cables I got had been subjected to the worse abuse. Despite the XLR’s not having any “holes,” and the ones on the 1/4” connectors not being used, I never saw a cable fail because the solder connection broke loose. The wire will break before the solder connection does – and I did see plenty of that!

Solder is essentially a low-temperature weld that’s much stronger than the wire it’s welding. I’ve never had any problem soldering a shield straight to the tab without using the hole.

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## Otto

You're right, Wayne, that the solder is stronger than the wire. I did just solder it to the the outer piece, and it seems fine. It may be that that little flange isn't really crimpable, because after I crimped it, things didn't really want to go together properly (the outer sleeve wouldn't screw to the plug itself nicely). I had to back out my poor crimp a little to get it to screw together properly. I've done this type of thing to some degree, but I'm not a pro -- live and learn, huh... Anyway, I'll almost certainly be making most all of my cables in the future, as it saves so much money, and is a minor challenge.


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Just remembered I had a picture of this on my computer, some custom cables I made ten years ago for my system, using some Mogami 8-channel cable stock, which I configured as four stereo pairs. 







​

If it looks a bit plain, that’s because I personally don’t go for dressing up cables. No one’s going to see them once they’re stuffed behind the rack anyway. As long as they’re functional, I’m happy. :T

Mogami is a cable brand that’s relatively unknown to home users, but fairly well known in professional circles. Good stuff – oxygen-free copper, nice supple jacketing (they make regular cabling, too).

The connectors are Dayton Super RCAs – nice for the price, but I’d use the Neutriks if I had it to do over. One thing I like about the Neutriks is they’re thin. The Daytons are kinda “fat,” like a lot of RCAs. Once you fill up the back panel of your receiver with them, you can’t disconnect a pair in the center of the row without disconnecting everything else in front of them first! The cable ID's are colored electrical tape under clear heat shrink.

I had a lot of gear in my system back then – three equalizers, electronic crossover, two power amps, three VCRs, etc., divided between a three-piece entertainment center. Passing regular interconnects back and forth would have given me a cable bundle the size of your average NFL football player’s arm, so I made three of these and they saved me a lot of bulk. 

One cabinet, for instance, had a tuner, CD player, cassette deck, VCR and amplifier – seven pairs of audio connections total. Two of these multi-cables handled the entire cabinet, with one pair left over. 

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Otto said:


> You're right, Wayne, that the solder is stronger than the wire. I did just solder it to the outer piece, and it seems fine. It may be that that little flange isn't really crimpable, because after I crimped it, things didn't really want to go together properly (the outer sleeve wouldn't screw to the plug itself nicely).


Ouch! You aren’t supposed to crimp these!!! That little black plastic piece with the tab that slips over cable is a chucking device that clamps down on the cable when you screw the barrel on.














​

Don’t feel bad – it took me a while to figure out what the deal was with these connectors, too – I’ve never seen any others like them. It’s a pretty ingenious design, really, but some instructions sure would have been nice!

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## Otto

That's a good representation of it! And I figured about the plastic thing clamping down with the screwing action. No more crimping that for me! Thanks!

I do need a little vise/clamp thing to hold my work. I'll pick one of those up next time I order from PE or MarkerTek.


----------



## ACGREEN

I've tried to make component video cables using RG6 with RCA crimp connections, but can't get the proper connection. Any thoughts?


----------



## drf

ACGREEN said:


> I've tried to make component video cables using RG6 with RCA crimp connections, but can't get the proper connection. Any thoughts?


The best way is to make sure the connectors you are using are designed specifically for the cable.
sorry if this sounds to simple, but I have seen people trying to squeeze quad shield into rg59 connectors.


----------



## lcaillo

Use compression fittings. ProConnect or PermaSeal are popular brands with pros.


----------



## F1 fan

DS 21,maybe one of these would be suitable # 53479 or 68141 on this page.http://www.partsconnexion.com/catalog/connectors.html


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Can’t find those numbers on that page... :scratch:

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## F1 fan

Wayne A. Pflughaupt said:


> Can’t find those numbers on that page... :scratch:
> 
> Regards,
> Wayne


Thanks Wayne ,I guess the link goes to the first page but if you look at the bottom there will be a box that will say Spades and Bananas.Clicking that should get you to the correct page.


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Got it. :T Yup, those look like just what he’s looking for. :clap:

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## Anthony

I really like the Canare LV-77S for interconnects. Flexible, lots of colors, and relatively cheap.

I use the Canare X-5CFB series for video (composite and component), since it comes in 3 and 5 bundles. the V3-5CFB is huge, though. It's like a garden hose.

I always ask customers whether or not they want techflex. The answer is usually yes, even though it makes the cables cost more. I had one customer insist on some chrome techflex (so much for hiding the wires  )

The 3:1 heatshrink is a must. Very forgiving (you don't have to match diameters exactly), and it does make for a professional look. I also got the Dymo labeler with heatshrink labels so I can put my company name (or cable labels) on the wires.

The only wire I don't DIY is HDMI, but the Impact Acoustics rapid run is very nice for custom lenghts. Monoprice and Parts Express are pretty cheap as well.

Finally, GLS Audio for locking banana plugs. $50 for a 20 pack, so that's not ultra cheap, but its comparable to the WBT and Cardas connectors, which are much more expensive.


----------



## F1 fan

DS-21 said:


> Thanks for the links. I thought about those, but to be honest I just don't like to support businesses that offer as much snake oil as that one seems to.


Yes, One must have the ** filter on when checking through their catalog :bigsmile:but they do offer some legit products at reasonable prices.
I applaud your choice of using the Speakon's.They are excellent.


----------



## Guest

Hi Wayne,

Can you please tell me how to build my own DVI-D cable? I have the connectors, pins, but the wiretype is what I don't know what it should be. I have some 13-48 stranded cables, but don't know if it works.

Thanks


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

> but the wiretype is what I don't know what it should be.


Not sure what you mean by that...

I’ve never made one of those specifically, but I have done some similar, using the so-called d-sub mini connections (db25, etc). I have to tell you, those things are really tedious, if you’re soldering, because they are so tiny. As cheap as DVI-D cables are, I’d be more inclined to just buy one. 

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## bpape

Not to mention the frequencies involved, already having length/signal issues, etc. I'd definitely just buy one most likely.

Bryan


----------



## Guest

Buying one is easy, but I like the challence of building one. The wiretype is what materials made of the wire. I have copper, nickle plated, coaxial, ect...If a company can build it, I'd like to know how for myself, since I have access to those wires, but just not the drawing on how to build one.

Thanks Wayne, and Bpape on your respond.


----------



## Sonnie

I didn't read it all but the DVI Wiki might give you some info.


----------



## Guest

Thank you so much Sonnie. Wikipedia is a wonderful resource. Thanks for taking time and find that for me. Now I can try to build my own cable.


----------



## gsmollin

Bent said:


> I'm needing to do two runs of rg-59 for component video, anybody here build their owm video cables?


Of course the question is a year old, but I actually recommend using RG-6 for the component video cables. Obviously, the short run would use whatever component cable you want to buy. I'm talking about a long run from an equipment rack to a PJ located on ahigh ceiling. This run could by >100 feet. It may be behind a wall. The RG-6 can go a long way with that signal, and the F connectors are not going to fall apart behind the wall. You will need F-RCA adapters.


----------



## fibreKid

I need to run a 35 foot length of subwoofer cable through my walls. I would like to purchase the bulk cable and attach the ends myself to the faceplate connectors. 
What type of cable should I buy ?
Any ideas about connectors ?
Where ? 

Thanks much
-john


----------



## bpape

Try Markertek.com. You can get Belden cable from them as well as the ends and the wall plates.

Bryan


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

fibreKid said:


> What type of cable should I buy?


A single conductor shielded installation-grade cable, which will be rated for in-wall use. However, I’ve found that two-conductor mic cable of this variety is easier to find.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=100-246



> Any ideas about connectors ?


That will depend on the faceplates you use. If you can’t solder, you’ll need to find some that provide an alternative means of termination.



> Where ?


Part Express, Markertek, etc. Google: bulk installation cable. Most any outlet will have termination options.

If you want to do this cheap and easy, just run some RG-59U and use F- to RCA adapters. Subwoofers don't require anything fancy.

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## fibreKid

Thanks Wayne, it's the cable types that had me stumped, "RG-59U" and such. I'll start looking :whew:


----------



## gsmollin

If you go to Home Depot or Lowes, you will see lengths of RG-6 for sale. These cables are even better than RG-59. RG-6 and RG-59 have the same characteristic impedance, 75 Ohms, but RG-6 is heavier gauge, and double shielded, so it is the usual choice for long runs in cable TV. On the downside, it is stiffer.


----------



## bpape

Just be careful. Much of the cable sold in the big boxes is copper clad steel which isn't a good choice for non-broadband applications. Try to get a solid copper center conductor and a minimum of tinned copper shield. 

Bryan


----------



## fibreKid

Good points.
Thanks
-john


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

bpape said:


> Just be careful. Much of the cable sold in the big boxes is copper clad steel which isn't a good choice for non-broadband applications. Try to get a solid copper center conductor and a minimum of tinned copper shield.
> 
> Bryan


Isn’t that typically an RG-6 QS thing? I think any RG-59 should be copper, but I don’t know for sure.

Another note, when it comes to _audio,_ RG-6 doesn’t have a functional advantage over R-59. Except maybe for a really lo-o-o-ong run...

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## gsmollin

For a subwoofer, one doesn't need any controlled impedance, neither RG-59, RG-58, RG-6, or any of the other common coaxial cables. Any good shielded cable will work.


----------



## bpape

Pretty much any of the typical broadband coax cables have variants that are copper clad steel. I'm not saying the HD is - just watch it. 

Bryan


----------



## lcaillo

The primary practical problem with copper clad coax is the possibility of corrosion or poor connections from damaging the clad layer. It is stronger than solid copper, but this is rarely a real advantage. I would stick with copper, and if one must use clad coax, be careful not to scratch through the clad layer. I was not aware that much clad coax was being sold at retail, but we never buy it that way.


----------



## gsmollin

Yes, I wasn't aware either, and I buy mine that way. Anyway, you can check it in the store with a magnet.


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Well, it's been over a year and a half in the making, and with a cast of thousands (of pictures, that is), but I finally got the How to Solder article up (with a few additional installments yet to come). I'm going to designate this as the discussion thread.

Take a peek, hope you like it. I started putting up posts only a month ago, and already it's had over 500 hits and is #2 on a Google for search "solder diy cables." 

Otto, I used one of your pictures - hope you don't mind (I gave you credit for it).

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## Otto

Wayne,

The thread looks great, and it's 100% fine that you used that picture. 

One comment -- it looks like the link in your post above links back to page 2 of this thread.

Nice job!


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

It links to a post I made in April last year where I said I hoped to have the article up in a month. LOL! I forgot to put in a link to the article - I've fixed that now. 

I'm thinking maybe I should break up the parts in to separate threads, since there are so many pictures it may be slow to open for some users.

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## gsmollin

Wayne A. Pflughaupt said:


> Well, it's been over a year and a half in the making, and with a cast of thousands (of pictures, that is), but I finally got the How to Solder article up (with a few additional installments yet to come). I'm going to designate this as the discussion thread.
> 
> Take a peek, hope you like it. I started putting up posts only a month ago, and already it's had over 500 hits and is #2 on a Google for search "solder diy cables."
> 
> Otto, I used one of your pictures - hope you don't mind (I gave you credit for it).
> 
> Regards,
> Wayne



Wayne,

I clicked over to the subject post, and the third illustration, "Alternative spiral shield", shows a poorly designed shield arrangement. The cable is apparently a "shielded, twisted pair". The second illustration just above shows a proper shield design, with both conductors under the shield. The alternate design has separate shields over each conductor. This design forces the electromagnetic field between each conductor to cut through the shields, and it is present outside the shields. This design will exhibit a large susceptibility to external fields, and it will exhibit large AC resistance. The electromagnetic field surrounding the conductors should be completely enclosed by the shield in a properly designed cable.

Obviously, this has nothing to do with soldering. I recommend you not use that photo, as it tacitly approves of this construction.


----------



## Stele

Nice DIY post Wayne.

I've been doing high reliability soldering of Military Fighter Jets for over 10years now, and while I didn't read the entire thing, the bits I skim read were pretty spot on.

My top tips for soldering... use the right tools. That includes flux (if you can get it - if not the solder has some flux in it but it's not as good for the flow of the solder - and then cleaning the flux off after!) and using the appropriate soldering tip, if it's too big it will be a pain, and if doing bigger jobs and it's too small it won't hold the heat (though if your making just audio leads stick to small ones)

Tinning your wires before you solder them in in a must and will make the job a LOT easier. It will also make the joint more reliable and less susceptible to 'bird-caging' and breaking from becoming dry and brittle ofter a few years.

In the end your soldering should be shiny (not 'frosty') with a medium fillet, not a bare amount and not a blob. Also don't worry about putting the wire through the eyelets and then looping it back and twisting cause you think it'll make a better connection or something, let the solder do it's job. All you're doing it creating a bigger area for some stray stand of wire to short out on. After twisting and tinning just solder it in/to the cup/terminal and have a nice concave fillet, not a massive blob.

If you have access to an expensive temp selectable soldering station set the temp at 300-310° C (572-590° F).

Buy a few cheap-o connectors to practice on and you'll get a idea of how much heat/time you need before you melt the plastic, it'll only be a couple of seconds (1-2) when your good at it.


----------



## franky

I have a few questions regarding soldering coaxial cables to rca connectors. 

1) What happens if your coaxial cable has only one single strand conductor in the middle of the cable? - Do you simply solder that to the solder cup of the rca connectors? 

2) Then what do you do with the shield on both ends? Do you just solder the shield to the arm on one connector only? - Or do you solder the shield to the arm on both ends?

Thanks in advance,
Frank


----------



## ZeosPantera

franky said:


> I have a few questions regarding soldering coaxial cables to rca connectors.


If you are using standard RG6/59 then I wouldn't try to solder in the first place. You would probably look at getting a crimp set with RCA connectors. I use an ICM set like this 

















If you already have a standard Coax crimper then you can just buy some Adapters like this











It all really depends on the level of quality you are going for. I doubt you will notice a severe difference either way with very short runs in low EMI areas.


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Single-conductor cable is actually what most off-the-shelf home audio cable uses. So yes, the “single strand conductor in the middle of the cable” goes to the solder cup. The shield must be soldered at both ends to the connector arms.

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## Andre

I also crimp,
for all my coax needs I used http://www.canare.com/ProductItemDisplay.aspx?productItemID=40
and Belden 1694A coax cable. I am very proud, and have never found better interconnects at any price


----------



## bpape

Carare RCAPs are very good ends.

I personally prefer the 1695A (Teflon dielectric) and a compression fitting if you can get the tools and the ends. Don't get me wrong, the 1694A and RCAPs will outperform a lot of pricier interconnects. I just prefer the Teflon

If you want something predone, check out AVcables.com 

Excellent people to work with. Very fast and do excellent work at very reasonable prices.

Bluejeanscables.com will also build you cables using 1694 or 1695 at very reasonable prices.


Bryan


----------



## Andre

I do belive the Canare are one of the Only 75ohm ends out there, correct me if I am wrong. The 1694/1965 are one of the only coax that are sweep tested to 3ghz (HD). This is all back in the day before HDMI, with HDMI component becomes more or less mute. However, these will do audio just as good.


----------



## bpape

The RCAPs are the closest you're going to get to 75 ohm. The geometry of an RCA connector makes 75 ohms effectively impossible. Fortunately, analog audio isn't really terribly picky about impedance.

Video and digital audio are another story and are very sensitive to impedance. This is one tick in favor of HDMI and optical digital audio. If you are going to use neither, then BNC connections are far superior if you're up to modding your equipment to have BNC connections also.

Bryan


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

The sad truth is, most RCAs are 25-ohm connectors. Furthermore, I’m told by reliable sources who are familiar with component electronics (our own lcaillo and brucek) that the input and output impedances of consumer electronics isn’t tightly controlled. 

So the connectors we use for digital coax and video signals aren’t as critical as one may think. Any impedance mismatches you’ll have with either a soldered or crimped RCA are insignificant compared to the variances in terminating impedance in the source and destination components. 

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## ZeosPantera

Wayne A. Pflughaupt said:


> input and output impedances of consumer electronics isn’t tightly controlled. Any impedance mismatches you’ll have with either a soldered or crimped RCA are insignificant compared to the variances in terminating impedance in the source and destination components.


I kind of assumed that without anyone telling me. Always found it hilarious people spending 100+ dollars to buy analog monster or more on "hand crafted" exotic golden 0 oxygen cables only to see them hook it up to a made in china $0.03 tin RCA out soldered by a machine that was also made in china on whatever piece of equipment they are using.


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

No kidding. Why do people spend magabucks for cables that are going to be plugged into this?







​

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## bpape

Well, some of us take the time and spend the money to have the connectors on the equipment side changed also. Impedance is very important for SPDIF Coax connections and video connections. 

The problem with impedance mismatches is the 'reflections' which are passed back down the cable and back into the equipment.

Bryan


----------



## delangheb

Hi,

Many thanks for the DIY article on how to solder. Very nicely done.

In your example the cable has a braided shield and 2 center conductors.

I'm wondering how to solder an RCA plug to a cable with both a braided and a foil shield.
The foil is beneath the braid. The 2 center conductors are then behind some filler material.

The cable in question is a subwoofer cable from QED. It was ordered without the plugs attached to be able to fit the cable into the wall.

Many thanks in advance,
Bart


----------



## ojojunkie

thanks for all the infos on RCA's and connectors...


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

delangheb said:


> Hi,
> 
> Many thanks for the DIY article on how to solder. Very nicely done.
> 
> In your example the cable has a braided shield and 2 center conductors.
> 
> I'm wondering how to solder an RCA plug to a cable with both a braided and a foil shield.
> The foil is beneath the braid. The 2 center conductors are then behind some filler material.
> 
> The cable in question is a subwoofer cable from QED. It was ordered without the plugs attached to be able to fit the cable into the wall.


No need to worry about the foil if a cable has both foil and braid shields. Just trim out the foil and solder using the braid.

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## matthew

Hi Wayne,

I am a newbie in DIY cables and your article is so informative and a useful reference.

What to do when the cable has 2 layer of braided shields? Should we tie both layer and solder it?

Thanks,
Matthew


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Wow, don’t know that I’ve ever seen a cable with dual shields, except coax! 

Technically-speaking, there’s certainly no problem tying both shields together. Functionally-speaking however, it may end up being too fat to deal with. So you might need to trim some of it out to make it a manageable size. This would be done before tinning.

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## DaveDaGr8

Hi,

From an industrial point of view !!!

The second braid is a drain. your centre core gets attached to +ve, the first braid -ve and these will be attached at both ends.

The outside braid is generally a drain, and it should get attached directly to Earth AT ONE END ONLY. The idea is that any voltages that may be induced are drained out through this shield. This works really really well in an industrial environment where signals are transmitted along KM's of wire, and come in close proximity to noisy cables. If you attach it to earth at both ends you can end up with eddy currents being induced OR worse, earthing your second appliance using this braid. If a fault occured on the second appliance you could end up frying this cable and starting a fire. It is a signal earth NOT a protective earth.

In the home ????? ... If you have the time, it can't hurt but probably won't help.

and depending on the application ( especially video), you shouldn't twist the two braids together, as you MAY upset the impedance. Just use the inner core and don't use the outer one at all. Triim it back and then heatshrink it neatly.


----------



## matthew

Thanks Wayne & Dave, that means I shouldn't look for dual shield cables for my audio interconnects. I just happened to see a cable with dual shield in Belden catalog, and was wondering how does it get soldered. Wayne, FYI, cable model is Belden 1505F, of course that is coax.

Matthew


----------



## bpape

1505 is a decent cable for interconnects. Personally, I preferred the 1695A for analog interconnects. I believe the Canare RCAP C53 is the appropriate RCA connector for that cable.


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

DaveDaGr8 said:


> Hi,
> 
> From an industrial point of view !!!
> >snip<


Thanks for the great info, Dave! :T

Regards,
Wayne


----------



## DaveDaGr8

No probs Wayne,

I have been an industrial Sparky / Instrument tech for 20+ years now and in that time i have witnessed MANY arguments between engineers over which shield should go where. There are some pretty funky cables out there so it can get confusing.


----------



## GsFlyer

I have built many cables, but what I am most intrigued with is the TS cable helping hand that is pictured in this thread. Any one know its manufacturer or where one might be had? The letters stamped on the base seem to read, CEACO or CEHCO.


----------



## charlieblue

Dear Wayne,

I am happily listening to the longer-and-thicker-than market-sold mini-jack to RCA stereo cable I made today. 

I followed your instructions on soldering for "best noise rejection" construction, using a two conductor cable with shield. This successful build was a great boost of confidence for me. Hope to continue soon with more constructions!

Thank you for a great, extremely detailed, very comprehensive article :clap:

Best regards,

Charlie


----------



## altittude

All this time i`ve been messing with my a v-hifi and just built some new speaker cables very impressed much better than store brought


----------



## gazoink

I built my own HDMI cable from scratch using wire coat hangers, bobby pins and balsa wood. 


Then I woke up.


----------



## tonyvdb

I built these 3 speaker cables last month for my main left, right and centre channels.


----------



## willis7469

Nice cables tony. I've only built some conversion stuff like speaker to line, RCA to 1/4, and mini to RCA. I made the RCA to 1/4 for my BFD which I'm going to abandon for a minidsp/umic. Fun and rewarding.


----------



## msaviste

Wayne A. Pflughaupt said:


> I make my own all the time. All kinds – RCA, XLR, 1/4” or combinations of the above. Even done some S-video. That’s the advantage of soldering that you don’t get with DIY crimped cables – you can make practically anything.
> 
> Well, I can make a 10’ RCA cable with Canare stock and Neutrik connectors for _well_ under $10. Any of the on-line custom cable makers able to beat that? :bigsmile:
> 
> Regards,
> Wayne


Hi Waine! 
I ended up here, posting now to you and all others, because of your very precise, and much appreciated post on "How to Solder..." which Google helped to find. 
I'm struggling with s-video cable and quite poor sockets (well judging from different posts). I find it really nerv wrecking to be able to solder those 4 pins securely and correctly. So I would be really grateful if you could give some pointers on how to go about soldering the grounds and conductors. In which order should I do it, 1st grounds, then conductors, or vice versa? The cable itself is this brand Tasker C142 (not sure if sold even in US). 

Thanks in advance for any feedback


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Hi msaviste,

Glad you enjoyed the article. :T 

Yup, like the stereo 3.5 mm, the S-video connector is one of the more challenging ones. However, I imagine the main source of the problems you’re having is that you’re using a difficult cable. An S-video cable only requires a two-conductor cable with independent shields, so unless you have a compelling reason to stick with the 4-conductor cable you’ve selected, I’d suggest going with something else.

Regarding soldering an S-video connector, the connection tabs are arranged in a circle and as such don’t obscure each other, so I’m not sure what’s causing the challenge you’re having, except perhaps the tiny size of the tabs, which is unfortunately the “nature of the beast.” If you’re having problems keeping the connector steady while you’re soldering it, I suggest getting a coupler. You could secure the coupler into a “helping hands” device, with the connector you’re soldering plugged into the coupler.

If it helps, here is a pinout diagram of a S-video connection.

Regards, 
Wayne


----------



## POPE3909

Hello Wayne A. Pflughaupt,

I was wondering if you take commissions to build custom RCA stereo cables, or know someone that does. There are many splitters on the market that offer 1 input and 2 output, but I was hoping to find a cable that offered 1 input and 3 output. Please give any recommendations that you can.










Respectfully,
Brian


----------



## luisv

Thanks for taking the time out and creating the instructional thread... it was very helpful!


----------



## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

POPE3909 said:


> Hello Wayne A. Pflughaupt,
> 
> I was wondering if you take commissions to build custom RCA stereo cables, or know someone that does. There are many splitters on the market that offer 1 input and 2 output, but I was hoping to find a cable that offered 1 input and 3 output. Please give any recommendations that you can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Respectfully,
> Brian


Hi Brian, 

Sorry, somehow I overlooked the notification for your post back in September.

Three-into-one, that’s a tough call. It would require an RCA connector with a really huge barrel, or a super thin shielded cable that would be thin enough to fit under the barrel of something like the Dayton connectors mentioned in the article. Can’t say I’ve ever run across these items.

And if you really mean “1 input,” as in a female, good-quality inline female RCA connectors are as scarce as dinosaurs.

Regards, 
Wayne


----------

