# The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread



## mcascio

SEATING
* FRONT ROW: 3 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners
* BACK ROW: 4 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners

SPEAKERS
* CENTER: M&K S-5000 THX
* FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K S-5000 THX
* FRONT WIDE LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* FRONT HIGH LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SURROUND LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* BACK LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SUB: M&K MX-350 THX (Looking to add a 2nd Sub)

ROOM DIMENSIONS
* BEFORE WALLS: 23'7.25" Deep x 17'9" Wide (excludes 10'7" x 2'7" entryway)
* NOTES: The theater is being constructed in part of our unfinished basement. There is a 23" drop in the basement to allow for stadium seating. 
* SHORTEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION: 8'10"
* TALLEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION in Drop Down area: 10'9"

HARDWARE
* RECEIVER: Onkyo TX-NR3008 (9.2)
* AMP: Emotiva XPA-5
* BLU-RAY PLAYER: Cinemar MLP-1000 Digital Movie Player (BluRay/DVD)
* STORAGE: Cinemar MLD-4000 12 TB Mass Storage Server
* PROJECTOR: Panasonic PT-AE4000U
* MOTION: D-Box Motion Platform for front row (3 Chairs)
* SCREEN: 140" Wide (152.1" Diagnol) 2.35 AT Screen (Seymour AV)
* USER INTERFACE: Cinemar's MainLobby / MLServer / DVDLobby
* LIGHTING CONTROL: Insteon via MainLobby
* THERMOSTAT CONTROL: via MainLobby
* INTERCOM: Not sure yet - most likely go with Russound

SOUND PROOFING
The room above the theater is a nursery and office. One of the rooms next to the theater is a furnace room. So it's important to keep the sound out of the rooms above and prevent sound coming in from the furnace room.
Current plan of attack is to use two layers of 5/8" drywall and Green Glue with sound absorption clips. Staggered stud walls will be on any framed walls.
* Minimum 1-3/4" Solid Core Door with automatic door bottom.

PAINTED STAR CEILING
* This may be added later in the soffit; however, I will definitely plan for it.

UNFINISHED BASEMENT AREA









MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Top View)









MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Side View)









LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Top View)









LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Side View - RESERVED)

LATEST THEATER DESIGN (3D View)




































FABRICS, CARPET & PAINT INFORMATION









COMPOSITED 3D IMAGE WITH ACTUAL PHOTO [There is an angled divider. The Left Upper Area is the actual photo, the right lower area is 3D]









FINAL ACTUAL PHOTO WITH NIGHT SKY MURAL STAR CEILING:









LED MOVIE POSTER DISPLAYS CURRENTLY PLAYING MOVIE AND ACTUAL START / END TIMES USING CINEMAR'S MAINLOBBY SOFTWARE










CURRENT STAGE OF CONSTRUCTION
* Finishing Mouldings on Columns
* 03.19.11 - Construction Lumber arrived and moved into Basement
* 06.20.12 - Nearly Finished Painting
* 08.13.12 - Construction Completed
* Working on Room Acoustics, Picture, Automation User Interface


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## mcascio

Here's a cutout view of how the room build went together with the clips and channels. A little difficult to see since there's a soffit in the middle of the room.

The foundation wall is on the right side.

5/8 plywood for the first layer, then 5/8" drywall with GG in-between.


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## mcascio

Two supplys service the room. I'm using AT-Core 6" Flex Duct from The Sound Proofing Company. They are insulated and contained within their own double 5/8" enclosure. The bottom of the enclosure will meet up with the theater ceiling.

This seems to be better practice now than trying to implement mutliple curves in the duct work.


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## mcascio

Photos and documenation from 04/21/11:
The entire basement outside the theater is pretty much all framed up. 

I have a few chairs that I took out of the box and they've been moving around the basement depending upon where they are working. I took a snapshot while they rested in the theater.










The inside wall lines were chalked for the theater as well. Anyone know if I should put Silinseal along the base plate of the outside wall?










This weekend I'll need to buckle down and make all final plans for how it's getting constructed and how I'm going to handle lighting for the room. They want to start on the massive soffit. Which drops the entire room down about 14" except for a center 12' x 12' area in the center of the room.


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## mcascio

Here's a pretty cool visual of a 3D composite wireframe blended with the empty room prior to construction.


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## mcascio

Photos and documentation from 05/29/11:
There have been lots of things happening but not as much in the theater. In fact, things just started rolling in the theater now that most of the basement is framed. I was looking at the backlit movie posters thinking it would be a nice touch for the theater foyer wall. After pricing them out, I ended up ordering a 40" TV to mount on the wall instead and I'll have it display the movie poster for the currently playing movie instead.
I'll post pics as the story develops on that one. The plumber also was able to stub for a urinal in our basement bath. It wasn't much extra work since he was already breaking up the concrete to move the shower drain.


Here are some pics.









Moved the bar drain out of the theater in order to make room for the dead vent.











Framed Bar wall outside of theater.











Started framing Dead Vent in the back corner of the theater. They used double 3/4" OSB since we had the space.











Green Glue in action.











Adding the final layer of 3/4" OSB to the theater side.











Another shot of the dead vent from inside the closet. The Dead vent actually sits between the theater and the back side of a closet. The heat will be pulled from the high side of the theater and then passed through the Fantech inline fan...it then routes through the lower portion of the closet pushing heat into the rest of the basement which is typically cooler.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 06/01/11:

The guys were able to get the soffits started today. The entire room will be dropped except for the center area where the future star ceiling will go.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 06/02/11:
A bit more progress today. They were able to finish framing the main soffits. Inside walls are next.





































I need to start strategizing all my cable runs and where I'll need electric. It won't be long before the first layer of OSB goes on to the walls. 

My radon levels are reading high, so I've started caulking all cracks where the walls meet the floor. The levels rose after they busted up the concrete to move the drain. The hole was open for about a week. Now that it's patched, I'm hoping they drop down. I still need to close up my Sump Pump but I'm waiting on a second sump pump bobber level sensor that I can connect to the automation system and alert me when the second backup sump fails. I put a sensor in the Ejector pit as well in case that pump fails. Hopefully I'll be able to catch any major issues before they occur and possibly ruin the theater.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 06/03/11:
And here's what 540' of Drywall Furring Channel looks like:









I'm assuming it will straighten itself out once it's aligned in the Whisper Clips.

2000' of Cat6 and 1000' of Cat5 arrived today so I can finish up most of the basement wiring and hopefully have enough left over for the theater. I've got 1000' of 12/2 coming for the speakers in the theater. Also waiting on RG6 for the Subwoofer runs.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 06/08/11:
The walls are completed and they started on the raising the lower level up.

The front row seating, D-Box platform, stairs and front stage will all be built upon this raised level.

Anyone know how to turn this space into a bass trap?


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 06/08/11:

They finished adding two layers of 3/4" OSB on to the raised lower level. We opted to put a zillion screws into it and liquid nails in between the layers.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 06/19/11:

Today I was able to get most of my speaker cable, bass shaker, RG6 and two cat5 runs into the theaters patch panel area. Still need to come up with some clean way to hide all of this in a wall or enclosure but have some ideas in my head.

It should be pretty easy now for me to just make the final runs from the patch panel to the appropriate locations in the theater. I'll still have a few home runs from the projector as well.

I pretty much filled up my I-Beam with cable for the rest of the house...so I made a different path into the theater that was a little more direct within a soffit.











Here's where the patch panel will be terminated within the theater itself. Another set of cables will go up the right side and within the theater.










I put some puddy pads on some outlets that I know won't get moved that are on the other side of the double wall in the bar.


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## Jasonpctech

No picts on page one.


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## mcascio

Jasonpctech said:


> No picts on page one.


Sorry - they are now up.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 06/23/11:
The construction crew had some other projects this week so I'm on the back burner.

The new baby is due in about 6 1/2 weeks so I thought I'd try to push the project along by trying to make some can light backer boxes tonight. I ended up using 3/4" wood with 1/4" cement board. I have two of them cut to size and will get all the pieces together before I acoustic caulk and green glue them permanently. These things feel pretty heavy to be floating right on the drywall. I may attach them with IB3's to help reduce the weight unless others have had that some feeling.










This is about the extent of my wood working skills. 

I also put up some R13 on one of the theater walls. The electrical and low voltage haven't been pulled into the room yet, but given the limited locations it shouldn't be a problem to work around later. I'll be putting two sconces on the back wall. This should help in cases where I need to light up more of the center of the room.










I think I've also figured out my lighting plan for the room. The lights are shown in pink. The inside perimiter will be 3" cans. All the rest will be 4" cans including the three pointing at the screen. 16 3" cans around the inside perimeter may be a bit much but I still may tweak that number down to maybe 3 on each side instead of 4.










Sample Rendering with Sconces:


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 06/25/11:

Here are some pics from todays activitives. Both Vent mufflers have been built. We used 3/4" OSB and then 1/2" OSB and Green Glue in the middle. Acoustic sealant was used at the joints. ONe of the Vent Mufflers was mounted using the IB3 clips. I also Green Glued and screwed four backer boxes.











The smaller hole is for the Arzel air tubes to control the zone dampers in the theater.






























Some 2x4's were mounted underneath the soffit to hold the wait while the screwed the IB3's to the Joists above. The entire muffler will be 5/8" above the first layer of plywood we put on the finished ceiling.






























The IB3 clips were spaced every 16".








































We wrapped a thin plastic around the duct to improve air flow and prevent any fiberglass from blowing into the room. I can't imagine this would cause any issues with the sound proofing. I'm thinking of using the plastic wrapped insulation as well inside the mufflers. It seems it would also help improve the airflow.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 06/26/11:

A bit more progress today.

These corner clamps were a great investment while building the backer boxes.










Finished putting the acoustic sealant all the around the theater.










Threw up a couple bags of R19 into the ceiling after putting 181 Metal Foil tape around the joints on the 6" ducts within the joists. I can tell I'm getting better air pressure in the rooms above because some of the vents with manual dampers actually rattled until I adjusted them slightly. 










Wired for the network thermostat in the Theater Foyer and ran 18/2 into the theater for the thermostat sensor. Since the Prolphix thermostat makes a clicking noise when it turns on/off and there is no way to turn off the display, I opted to keep it outside the theater and will put a small thermostat sensor within the theater.










I caulked all the backer boxes with acoustic sealant and built one last backer box. I'll assemble it completely the next time we break out the Green Glue. Just need to add a lip to all the backer boxes so we'll have something to screw into.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 06/29/11:

UPS dropped off another package from The Sound Proofing Company which included the automatic door stops and bottom. That motivated me to get out to Lowe's and finally pick up the 36" 1 3/4" thick solid core door along with some accessories. They only had 4" hinges. Looks like Home Depot has some 4 1/2" Heavy Duty Hinges which I'll probably pick up instead. I need my door frame to span about 11", should I just use 2x12 for the frame?

Tonight I was able to make a little progress.


Put some Pipe Wrap from the Sound Proofing Company on the boots that are going into the Vent Muffler.










I screwed all the IB3 clips to the second Vent Muffler every 16" using #8 2" Screws.










Finished insulating the first vent muffler and cut the AT-Core flex duct to size.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 07/01/11:

They framers worked till 11pm last night cranking out things while I stuffed insulation in areas that were getting boxed in. All the lines were snapped for me so I can install Whisper Clips this holiday weekend.

This is the final vent muffler mounted to the joists with IB3 clips.










Notice the cold air return in between the joists? We were thinking we should remove the carboard and replace it with 3/4" OSB. Any thoughts? This seems like it could be the weak point of the room since there's only going to be clips, channle and DD/GG below it.



















The vent mufflers hang down so they are just above the final first layer of 5/8" plywood will be putting on the ceiling. Only a small portion of the vent muffler will actually be screwed to the first layer of drywall...just the area surrounding the 6x10" vent.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 07/03/11:

I spent about 15 hours in the theater yesterday hanging whisper clips and started the hat channel. I had to add some blocks here and there to accomodate for proper spacing. I've probably got about another 75 or so whisper clips still to hang. But I thought I'd start with the inside soffit first and get the hat channel in just so I could see if I made any mistakes and correct them before hanging the rest. I just had to adjust a few of the inside corner clips but other than that, it went pretty well.

I'm pretty sore though. 15 hours of climbing up and down a ladder and drilling is nothing like holding a mouse and sitting at a desk all day. 










One thing I meant to tweak and didn't was to make the inside soffit 12'. It ended up being 12'7" x 12'11". So I had to splice together the channels. It wasn't a big deal using the tin snips to cut the channels, but getting them connected together in tight spots next to the ceiling joists was a challenge.

I'm adding some more windows to our walk-out basement where the new office will be. So I also ran some wire to accomodate powered blinds. I have some Somfy powered blinds in our main level. For the bigger blinds, the batteries were only lasting 6 - 12 months.

I'm hoping to finalize the speaker column issues, get insulation in, install all clips and channels and hopefully have the electrician here early next week.

I broke down and ordered the Emotiva XPA-5 during their holiday sale. I'm a sucker when it comes to a sale and figured it will be much easier and save me some time when I'm terminating all these cables so I only have to do it once and make it look neat.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 07/05/11:

Put in another 14 hours today in on the theater.

Here's a cold air return I wanted to sound proof.










I stacked half inch boards all around to create a square area. Then insulated the end and put silinseal around the edges.










Then I used a scrap 2"x10" board as an end cap. Then added more silinseal to the edges after screwing in place.










This cold air return was in a soffit, so I screwed 3/4" OSB underneath and then will insulate after before the first layer goes on the ceiling.










I finished up putting all clips and channels everywhere. Feels good to be done. You get pretty good at doing it by the end and I came up with a lot of techniques to speed things up.










Look up from the floor.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 07/06/11:

Here are some of my latest renderings with the columns in place as I plan to construct them in the room:


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 07/07/11:

Made some more progress tonight. Got most of the cables ran into the theater but still need to decide how / where I'm going to pop them through into the rooms...but I think I've got a game plan.

Ordered some equipment to build my patch panel in the room.

Just got the samples of some theater carpet in and will see how it plays with the wall fabric.

I also finished sound proofing the last cold air return so I could finish insulating the entire ceiling.

I took a different approach with this one.

Here's a pic of the cold air return before sound proofing.









I started by cutting a 3/4" hole in the return.









Then I slid a 5' 1/2" board cut to the same width as my joists into the return. Be careful not to extend too far into the return. You don't want to complete close off air flow from the main return duct.









Then I attached some boards 16 1/2" wide underneath the joists. I screwed them to the joists, and then through the middle to connect with the 1/2" board within the return and sandwich them together so it wouldn't move or vibrate. 









I used some scrap wood to build blocking on this side of the return.









I put some insulation in before adding 3 layers of 1/2" osb underneath. Then added Silinseal for good measure. 









I also make sure they add a thin layer of insulation before the first layer of 5/8" plywood goes up. I'm hoping the extra 1/2" of osb in the return should add some mass. I would have probably used 3/4" if I had some extras.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 07/13/11:

They finished all of the hvac items related to the theater today. The final layers of OSB went on the dead vent that routes through the closet outside the theater and the interior supplys. Feels like a big weight has been lifted getting these pieces done.

An access door was built for the inline fan.

Here are some pictures taken during the process.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 07/15/11:

Here's a shot of the 4' rack I'll be using for my Theater Patch Panel. It will get mounted in between two walls within the Theater. I'll probably have them elevate it 2 1/2' above the ground. Then disguise the opening with a movie poster or something.

If I'm forced to do Audyssey calibration with the receiver in the room, I'll just put a shelf in temporarily in the rack to set the receiver on during calibration. I ran a really high quality mic cable, so I'm hoping the distance won't be that much of an issue for Audyssey.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 07/31/11:

They started putting the first layer of 5/8" OSB and Plywood on the ceiling yesterday.


We attached the 4" can light backer box before attaching the plywood to the hat channel.










The tray around the room will be about 12". The interior can lights will be built into the plywood within the room. Hopefully the crown moulding will be enough to hide the cans.










Here's a frame around the supply vent. This is the only portion of the supply chamber we attached to the plywood ceiling.










Finished assembly with plywood layer.










View within the soffit. Acoustic caulk was used on any entry points.










Front wall. Three 4" cans will light the screen. Question....Where the plywood meets the left wall, do I need to use acoustic caulk? Or do I wait for the final layer of 5/8" Drywall?










View from the front of the room. The plywood seems pretty sturdy. I may not need any L-brackets...or possibly just a spot one near the middle of each section.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 08/04/11:
Well - the walls are finally closed up. We worked from 6pm until about 2:30am to get it done before the drywall. I put acoustic caulk all the around the perimeter. It looks like a racquetball court.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 08/06/11:
They knocked out the drywall. Took 3 guys about 6 hours straight. Went through 3 1/2 five gallons of Green Glue. They had initially buried a 4 gang switch box...but fortunately I caught it shortly afterwards. 

Taping and mudding starts Monday! 

Looks like I need to get a parts list together for the next phase and start ordering.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 08/10/11:

They finished the taping and mudding in the theater and applied a gray primer to all the walls. It's really starting to come together now. Electricians are here tomorrow to get the cans up so we can have a little more light in the room. Hopefully they'll also be able to get the electrical floor box into the cement for the back row.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 08/11/11:

Here's a sample with Benjamin Moore Twilight Blue 2067-30. It's lighter by itself, but I think it may appear dark in the room given there isn't much uplighting aside from the rear sconces.

I think some contrast with the black ceiling will give it that cutout impression.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 08/13/11:

I was hoping to have my new lower level office moved before the baby arrived. Turns out the new office will be carpeted on Monday - the same day the wife and new baby come home. The old office will be turned into the new nursery. I guess I came pretty close. Taking on an entire basement and theater all at once might have been a little too aggressive. 

I do have some pics of the floor box installation for the back row. The electric / data / bass shaker wire will run from the constructed first row floor through a pvc pipe in the concrete and then into the installed floor box. There are two chambers, one for electric and the other for the data and bass shaker speaker wire.










Once carpeting is installed...the electricians will cut the boxes flush with the floor.










Here are some pics that I never posted of the 5 installed can lights that have backer boxes up in the ceiling. I put a little bit of insulation in the backer box.








































Here's the wiring area. I still need to have a wall built and 48" rack installed with patch panel.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 08/21/11:

Sorry to report no progress on the theater. I've had to divert resources to the rest of the basement.

I did clean up my Elk security panel yesterday until about 3am and got all the basement and theater sensors added. I'm almost maxed out at about 48 sensors that include, motion, glass breaks, sump pump sensors, ejector pit, doors/windows, etc.

Here's a before and after shot. Sorry about it being blurry, it was taken with my phone. I still have one cable I need to route to the basement alarm speaker that is hanging in the after shot. 
I've got a couple glass breaks that are only showing as violated. I've double checked all the wires for continuity and they all pass. I've swapped the glass break with a motion and still get the same results. I switched it to another input on the ELK panel and that didn't work either. Running out of ideas on this one.

BERFORE











AFTER


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 09/09/11:

I wish I could post some more cool photos of the theater development. But with the new baby, work and finishing up the rest of the basement it just hasn't happened.

I did make use of the theater seats though. They are serving as temporary couches until the theater is completed.





















Just to prove I'm not being lazy though...The lower bath is now finished except for a few items.




























My pride and joy!










I had them make the glass tile border the larger 2x2's to make it look like a film strip around the shower wall.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 09/26/11:

They added some 2x4x12's to the soffit to help straighten out the 5/8" plywood on the ceiling. That really helped out. The 2x4's will be hidden with the Crown molding.










The stairway and platform have also begun construction.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 09/28/11:

Here's some of tonights progress. The first row stage was framed in along with some insulation. I ran the electrical/data along the back wall and then into the cemented floor box enclosure for the back row electric recliners.

You can see the framed cutout area for the DBox platform that will handle the 3 front row seats.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 09/28/11:

The granite bar counter tops were installed today. So another item checked off the to-do list. I think they turned out great.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 09/28/11:

I became a little more ambitious tonight and decided to take on building the DBox platform before the stage the next phase of the first row platform was completed. I found out I'm missing four hex bolts. 

Assembly was fairly easy but just time consuming. Fortunately the room was fairly clear open because I needed at least 224" in length to assemble this bad boy!

Here are some pics of the process.


Here's what I had to work with.










I started by screwing in all the hex bolts into the ends of all the aluminum pieces.




















Then start sliding the pieces together.










It starts to look like this after a while.

















































All the bolts still need to be tightened and positioned in place...but that'll be the easy part. I decided to call it night since I'm severly sleep deprived.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 10/04/11:

The first layer of 3/4" OSB was liquid nailed and then screwed to the first row platform. A layer of roofing felt was stapled to the top and ready for the next layer of 3/4" OSB.











I added a little signage outside the rec room/bar bathroom.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 10/05/11:

The 2nd layer of 3/4" OSB was added to the stage. Next steps...stairs!











The panels and stained cherry wood was added to the front of the bar. I just need to order some more cherry moldings and wait for delivery then the bar will officially be done. I also played around with some under counter lighting using LED rope lights.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 10/15/11:

They made some progress on the front stage today. Next step...steps! 











I think I'm going to order sand bags from Lowe's and have them deliver it for $20. Hopefully they can deliver some dry sand.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 10/17/11:

More exciting progress tonight as the next steps were put in on the riser and the front stage.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 10/18/11:

More developments tonight. I didn't get around to putting the sand into the stage tonight, but some of the 3/4" tops were added to both the stage and the riser. The curve behind the front row should wrap the curved seats nicely!


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 10/19/11:

We were able to get another layer of OSB added to the steps leading to the front row. Roofing felt was put in between the layers again. The front stage step OSB layer was also cut to fit. It actually worked out really nice since the front stage is just under 4' deep. So the remnant used from the top of the stage fit perfectly on the step below. He just traced the curve 11" away from the first cut. We used 1/2" MDF for behind the front row seating. I'll either paint it black or apply some type of fabric treatment to it. Probably just paint it black since it won't be visible.

Here are some pics of tonights activities.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 10/20/11:


Looks like we've stuck pretty close the actual plan thus far. 










No seats in the render:


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 10/22/11:

I finished filling up half the stage with sand last night. Looks like I'll be about 7 bags short to complete the other half. The sand from Lowe's was all dry which was nice.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 10/24/11:

I finished emptying all of the remaining sand bags into the other half of the stage. Looks like I'm about 10 bags shy. So I'll pick those up tonight and finish that phase up.

I need to zero in on the construction of the false screen wall next. 



Another composite image I created blending reality with vision:


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 10/25/11:

I finished putting the last 10 bags of sand into the front stage this evening. I also was able to cut all the OC703 for the front corner bass traps. 

I created this makeshift cutting table out of 1/2" osb and some left over metal from my drop ceiling corner metal. The OSB grabbed the OC703 while the metal provided a nice smooth edge to run the blade along. The 2x4 gave me a nice clean 2' cut every time.



















For cutting the 2x2's in half, I rigged this:









After doing about half of them, I realized it was just easier to use a straight line piece of metal at a 45 and score the OC703 with the turkey cutting knife. Then remove the metal ruler and then cut all the way through.

This entire process actually went very quickly.

I mounted a 1/2" osb shelf to set the pie shaped OC703 bass traps on. I left it 30" off the stage to allow for future subs should I ever decide to go big!










I measured it so they'd fit pretty snug up against the ceiling.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 10/26/11:

I was able to tackle a few more items tonight.

The two layers of recycled denim were added to the top of the screen wall.

You can see how big the 50' rolls are.










I ended up just using the roofing nails and fender washers along with some 3M spray. A bit challenging to do by myself, but I was able to rig something up to hold one end while I started on the other. I put some liquid nails on the washers and head of the nail to hopefully prevent any unwanted metal on metal sounds when the room shakes.










I then tackled the water pipe sticking into the lower screen wall. 

Here's what I needed to soundproof.









I framed it with 2x4's on end.










Then applied some acoustic caulk around the edges before putting on two layers of 3/4" OSB.










I have to snug my speakers against the screen wall. So I may just put another two layers of recycled denim underneath and then cutout the denim once I know for sure where I'll be putting the speakers.


----------



## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 11/02/11:

Finally finished cutting out all of the 4" can light holes. I used a dremel. After the first bit broke. I picked up some RotoZip bits and they seemed to cut much faster. Not sure if it was just the older bit or the brand.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 11/04/11:

My father-in-law was over this morning putting on the first coat of Benjamin Moore Starry Night Blue. Turned out pretty good.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 11/11/11:

I wired in the remaining cans temporarily and put 50 watt halogen spots in them.

The lighting worked out great where it lights up all the path ways for walking and in the back row it's just above the seating for any light reading.


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## mcascio

PHotos and Documentation from 11/12/11:

I spent tonight terminating the patch panel in the theater. For those wondering, I ended up putting in this patch panel in case I had to move my Receiver into the theater room to do mic calibration with Audyssey. I'm hoping I don't and that my mic extension cable will work but at least I've got options.

The keystones are the feeds from the Theater Rack. Now I need to put banana jacks on the cable going into the theater. If I need to put the receiver in the theater for a quick calibration, I can quickly move the banana plugs from the patch panel and into the receiver.

I ended up being short a few keystones. Looks like I need to spend more money.





































I also wired in some more Insteon Dimmers that will eventually be controlled by my automation system and tablet/remote/phone. I was anxious to see how the cans looked dimmed.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 11/12/11: 

I started playing around with column construction based upon materials I can actually buy vs. some random mouldings I found online months ago.

I've moved to a raised panel look which I think gives a bit more depth. However, I'm not too happy with the area between the columns. I think they are competing with the speaker columns. So I either need to offset them so they don't line up as close to the speaker columns or change the moulding itself to maybe something a bit less fancy.

I'm also thinking of using 3/4" MDF on the lower wall to create the paneled look.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 11/13/11:

I thought I'd take a stab at the columns. Was going fairly well except my jig saw couldn't seem to cut a straight line while cutting out the speaker areas. The blade seemed to have a mind of it's own. 

Finally it just died on me. Looks like I'll need to pick up a new one.


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## Quijibo

I don't really want to interrupt this fantastic thread, but I just have to say...
....
....
wow.


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## ALMFamily

Quijibo said:


> I don't really want to interrupt this fantastic thread, but I just have to say...
> ....
> ....
> wow.


+1 - anxiously awaiting the next round of updates! :bigsmile::T


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## mcascio

Thanks folks. I'm slowly but surely updating the progress so I can get to what it actually looks like today.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 11/18/11:

Just thought I'd post some plans for the column in case it benefits anyone down the road.









I finally got the moulding up on the bar. I decided to save some money on labor and attempt to do it myself and put that savings towards some new tools. I bought a Porter Cable brad nailer (combo kit with compressor). First time ever using one. I felt empowered.  I figured I could attempt to do the moulding in the theater myself...so the finish nailer will more than pay for itself.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 11/21/11:
I tackled more of the columns today. Gave the Kreg jig a try as well. I wasn't really sure how many places I should screw the sides to the front. I think I ended up using about 7 or 8 per side. Applied and finish nailed some of the larger speaker mouldings and pre-cut the moulding for the bottom of the front column. I'll need to order some black GOM fabric before I can permanently mount the remaining mouldings. You'll notice a white inside frame. That's MDF that I used to attach the mouldings to and provide some additional support. I may also need to paint some of the mouldings before I completely finish nail them to the column since it's be adjoining the GOM fabric.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 11/22/11:



Larry M said:


> How are you attaching the fabric in the columns?
> 
> Any more details on the trim you used? Interested in the back profile


Here's a diagram showing the moulding I'm going with.










I'm still on the fence about how to tackle attaching the fabric. Especially on the sides. I'm open to recommendations.

For the sides, I was thinking of just using hot glue or contact cement to attach it to the MDF. I'm thinking stapes may fray the edge of the MDF since I only have about 1/2" of contact with the mdf to fabric.

Here's an illustration. The moulding is 3/4" and I'll finish nail it over the top of the fabric and then into the mdf.









For the lower front of the column, I have a lot more room to staple or glue the fabric. The top half grill needs to be removable. I'm planning to use a plastic speaker frame from parts-express. 

I ordered the Black GOM so I'll be getting to that phase soon.

I cut all the mouldings for the first column. I became more and more efficient. I started using a finished cut moulding piece as a template to mark the next piece for cutting. The trick was to place them back to back on the floor and then use a sharp pencil to trace the cut line. This narrowed by cuts down to about two or three per moulding per side. Much easier than using the measuring tape. Then to shave off a hair, I would lower the mitre saw blade down and push the moulding against the blade. Then lift the blade up and make the cut. The teeth are a little larger, so it just shaved a smidge off the end moving me closer and closer to my finished cut. These are probably all stuff the pro's know, but being my first time. I'm learning as I go.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 11/23/11:

I haven't gotten into the theater tonight. But here's some progress from last night. 

I built a speaker frame out of a speaker frame kit from Parts-Express. I removed the nubs on the back that fit into the female socket fittings. The sockets seemed like it was going to be challenging to get the grills in and out. So instead I'm using magnets to attach the frame. 

The frame certainly took some time and I have to believe there's a faster way. Was thinking of a metal bar on the top wrapped in the GOM and then another metal bar to add some weight to the bottom. Then magnets would hold the material taught vertically both at the top and bottom. My concern with this method is the edges may not always look taught over time unless they are attached to something and could possibly get snagged or frayed over time.

Any one else try the gravity method with magnets.

Overall the parts-express kit was easy to work with. I initially made some cuts with a hacksaw, but then just used a table saw for more precise straight cuts. The frame was hot glued together and then the material applied using hot glue. You really just need to take your time with the hot glue and keep pulling the material so it has a smooth edge. I started with the corners. Going from one diagnol to the other and then working towards the middle.

One thing I'll be doing with the next frame is adding the provided supports that the kit comes with in the middle. I can see a bit of bowing in the frame. It was most likely from me pulling the GOM to tight on the plastic frame. So next one, I'll be a little less agressive. I'll probably slip a small piece of black velcro on the bottom of the speaker frame against the fabric so I can pull the frame off the column easily.

Right now, I have screws attached into the back of the speaker frame that line up with the magnets in the female socket fittings within the column. I think I'll switch that around and put the screw in magnets on the frame and just a piece of metal in the column. Requires less presicion and lining up screw to magnet.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 11/25/11:

Worked in the theater until about 2am last night getting a total of 5 columns cut up for assembly. Was a little slow after all that Turkey.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 11/27/11:

Here are a few shots from yesterday's work.

I placed the columns against the wall, but two of them are not actually where they are going. The one will be taller, and the one near the back wall will be shallower.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 11/28/11:

Back to our regularily scheduled program. 

I knocked out tall column 1 of 2 last night.









1 more tall column to go, then 2 shallow depth columns which should go quick left. Then moulding, then onto screen wall.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 12/01/11:

Slow and steady wins the race.


I was able to add moulding to 3 more of the columns. My corners are getting better the more I do. I may try some new techiques to see if I can get a better miter cut by using a clamp to hold the 90 degree pieces together. and then sawing down the middle.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 12/06/11:

I was able to finish up building the 2nd taller room column. Just need to add some moulding next.

2 more room columns to go. I'm leaning towards just keeping them all the same size. Based on some walk tests, it's a bit snug, but keeping the column the same depth gives me an option of putting a speaker in them down the road if I chose to. I have about 1' 9" of walkway between the seat and the column. But because the arm is only about 24" tall, it feels roomier.

I should have enough room for the back bar as well - probably a 9 - 12" counter depth.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 12/12/11:

I got a few more things done. 

I've modified the plans slightly as far as what I'm planning to do in between the columns. Just simplified it a bit to save on time and materials. Nothing major and I don't think the look will be sacrificed at all.

I wrapped up the final in-room column.

Ordered some more speaker kits from Parts-Express so I can finishing building those out before I have to attach the columns to the wall. A little easier to work with when the column is laying on the ground.

I also spray painted my test 4" LED can light for the soffit and two back cans in the room. I was quite pleased with how it turned out using some Rustoleum spray paint.










First I removed the lens and paper cone reflector from the Home Depot LED can light. Then I inserted a plastic 3" mask I had laying around. Fit almost perfectly. I wrapped the sides with a plastic bag so I wouldn't spray the heat-sink around the fixture.

Then applied two coats.














































While the edge wasn't as perfect as I would have liked with the plastic mask. It really wouldn't be noticable for anyone looking up at the lights with them on. And with them off, you wouldn't be able to see anyways.  I may try to fine-tune another mask just for my own relief.

Now I just need to order 17 more. 

This will help reduce the heat in the room and save on the electric bills. Although, these lights really shouldn't be getting that much of a workout. I must say, the extra few degree's during these winter months have been welcome while working in there but it does get a little warm.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 12/14/11:

I installed all the LED lights in the theater. Replacing the 50w halogens with 9.5w each. What a difference and I couldn't be happier. I get a much more evenly lit light even in the middle of the room.

I came up with a better game plan to spray paint the led can lights. I'm using a 2 3/4" no-putty gasket ring I purchased from Menard's in the plubming section. It has a sticky side that I can affix to the inside of the LED to create a nice seal and straight lines. I filled the inside of the ring with painters tape. 1 coat would probably be enough, but I've been giving them 2 coats. I sprayed 4 and will finish the rest later. I didn't want to accidently hit and scratch one. They all need to come out eventually to install the GOM fabric on the soffit anyways.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 12/15/11:

Worked in the theater until about 2am last night. Finished another 3 speaker frames. I'm becoming a lot more efficient with each one.

It looks like a column grave yard in the theater at the moment.









I also picked up some more wood for attaching the GOM to the wall in between the columns. I'm using 1"x2". The denim is only 3/4" thick.

I may tackle installing the 4 rear columns just to get them out of the way...and put off the front wall that I've been dreading.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 12/18/11:

I attached (4) 16" 2x2 furring strips to the wall using (2) screws each.
Then I elevated the column with a 1/2" mdf board to get it off the ground. Leveled and screwed it in where the crown is going and the chair rail.

I'm trying not to use too many furring strips in case I need that space inside the column down the road for larger speakers or sound treatments.

The columns are going to be sandwiched on each side by more furring strips for the fabric on the top half of the column and 3/4" mdf on the bottom 2'6" of the column for the wainscoting. If I don't screw in where the mouldings are going to hide the screws, I'll need to screw in 3/8" from the edge of the mdf. So I tried not to do that so I didn't break off the edge. I guess I could shoot a few extra 16 ga 2" finishing nails in close to the edge if you guys think it will be necessary. Just having the screws gives me an easy option for disassembly if needed.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 12/19/11:

One more column mounted. I also cut the outlets for the electrical outlet in the column and optional subwoofer jack. I ended up adding one more furring strip near the bottom of the column. The baseboard will hide that screw. 

Initially I was planning to just staple the bottom openings in the columns with GOM and then install the moulding over it. This forces me to paint the moulding before installation since it'll be right next to the GOM fabric. Another problem is if the fabric ever got damaged or torn, it would be a big production to remove the moulding in order to replace the fabric. So I'm thinking of making those removable as well. I was going to use 1/4" hardboard for a frame, but I'm looking for those screw clamps that you see on cabinets to hold the speaker frame tight to the frame. They look like a small 3/4" l-bracket with a screw that tightens. Anyone know what these are called and where to pick them up? I think Menard's may even carry them.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 12/22/11:

Ok - here's a pic of the third column mounted. Like the other, I installed two single gang boxes. One for electric and the other for the sub.










I've got to figure out what I'm going to do with all the scraps and 4x8 sheets of OSB/MDF that are within the room. Space is becoming limited!


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 12/26/11:

I was able to sneak into Menard's 5 minutes before they closed. Just enough time for me to grab a solid piece of oak to cut one stair tread and a bullnose.

I started by cutting off a pizza wedge at about 15 degree's. This allowed me to flush the piece to the wall and match closely the angle of the stairs and prevent waste.

Then snugged it up on top of the first step and used a couple of boards to run along the back of the stair and traced the line with a pencil. Then cut with a jig saw using a Bosch Xtra clean blade. Cut like butter.

Then I built a block that was 3.5" long and used this to trace another line to cut for the top step bullnose. I bought one of those guide railes for my jigsaw, but found I was more accurate by hand than using that. Perhaps my inexperience played a big role.

Finally I used two stack boards again to trace the final front of the step cut line. That gave me about 1.3125" overhang. I'll have a 3/4" bottom lip made of solid oak, another 1/4" for the back riser. That will leave some wiggle room and play to mount the bullnose and stair tread.

Now I just need to figure out how to make a biscuit joint. I'm pretty sure I just need a bit for the router but will do some research.

Some photos of the rough cuts follow. I was also able to mount one more column in the room.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 12/27/11:

A few more shots of the progress.

I've almost completed the cuts to build the bull nose and stair tread for the behind the first row seating. Because of all the angles and arches, it was extremely difficult to figure ou the angled cuts where the bullnoses join together at the corners. It worked out to be about 42 degree's with trial and error. I have one more to cut.

I used 3/4" solid oak so it would match the height of the 1/2" pad plus carpetting which appears to be about a 1/4".

I'm contemplating not putting the 3/4" oak under the lip to give more height to the edge of the oak bullnose and step. The rise on the steps is only 5 3/4". I'm thinking it will make the steps look even shorter. Any thoughts on this?


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 12/27/11:


So I'm tossing around the idea of carpeting the front stage...before I commit to the work and materials. It would be a pretty large time saver and would also eliminate some of the light reflections in the room. I added the bullnose in other areas mostly to help prevent someone from mistepping in the dark theater. The front stage is not a concern obviously.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 12/31/11:

Here are some more updates.

I finished putting in the final room column electrical outlet. I have a cat5 in the column as well that runs back to the patch panel. I haven't decided if I'll need it for anything. I'll need to make a decision as to whether to cut another gang box hole above the electrical outlet before mounting the column. It'll be easier to cut now. I may need it to change the step led lighting colors from a remote. But I'm thinking it'll be easier to just snake the IR sensor into the column and wire it hidden.

In fact, I should probably wire an internal electrical outlet while I have the chance. So I can hide the transformer if I want.











To do the front bull nose. I screwed two blocks to the stage that are square to the side walls. Then screwed the oak down. I made sure that my final cuts would leave me with 3.5" width. Then traced the underside. I built a buffer block that I used during tracing which keeps me flush to the side wall and out the distance I need. Keeps me from having to reach way back as well.










Next I cut with the jigsaw along my mark.









I used my handy 3.5" spacer to mark my next cut using the first cutline as a guide.









Before cutting, I marked straight lines in the arch off the square edge. I wasn't sure if I would need them as cut lines, but once that square edge is gone you are only left with angles.










It took three pieces to build the front bull nose. I ended up stacking the smaller pieces on top of the larger one and tracing my cut lines which ended up being about 17 degree's. So I didn't end up using the straight cut.



























If I wasn't concerned about the echo, it might look really cool to have the whole first row platform in oak!


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 01/03/12:

So I decided to start tackling the front wall last night and made a good dent on jig sawing the oak. I liquid nailed and screwed the first layer of osb down finally and then made some precut pieces for the top section. I'll fill in the back side with 3/4" OSB or MDF scraps I have since it won't be visible.










And here are some renders of what the final product should look like.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 01/07/12:

I worked in the theater last night until about 4am. I finished many of the risers and stair sides with 1/4" oak veneer using 18 ga finish nails and liquid nails. All the osb steps were screwed and liquid nailed before hand. The oak puzzle pieces for the front stage are pretty much done. The random orbital sander did a nice job. NOTE: The oak riser that's peeling away has been pre-cut. Just need to install it.




























I think I have a game plan for carpeting the Dbox motion platform and surround fixed platform:


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 01/08/12:

Here's the weekend report with lots of pics.

I've been trying to tackle the lip under the bullnoses and steps.

I scrapped the concept of ripping 1x2 routed oak pieces. The table saw just couldn't grind through it and it was a lot of work. So after scrapping a few 8' pieces. I picked up some unfinished oak base shoe 1/2" x 3/4". This gave me a standard step height of 3/4" step and 1/2" lip...so a total of 1 1/4". I would've liked it at 1 1/2" but like I mentioned...scrapped that idea.

So I thought I'd practice on a stair. Just in case I messed up.










Started by routing the top with a 1/2" roundover bit. Does anyone know if the $30 carbide bits are better than the $3 bits? I went with the $3 bit and it seemed to work through it alright.











I ran the router straight past the edges to give it a sharp look rather than rounded.










Snapshot of the trusty Porter Cable Brad Nailer:











I flipped the stair over and glued and brad nailed the base shoe after figuring out the miters.











Finished shot:










I left the corners long and just used a jig saw to cut them off:










Nice profile after flipping it over again:










Here it is dropped in place to see how it fits:










Then I used the random orbital sander with a 220 grit to blend the two edges:


















After doing both stairs, I decided to move on to one of the big boys. The front step of the stage. I set it up and marked lines where I would be using the Kreg Jig.










Then started drilling:




















Glued and screwed together:









Does anyone know if these 1" kreg screws will make this piece solid enough to actually pick up and flip over onto the stage? I'm a little nervous. So my theory is to run a board across the three pieces and screw into the bottom side helping to unify the entire piece. Otherwise, I may need to call a few friends over for some help.

I also started attaching the base shoe on the under side.

Clamps were helpful in getting the base shoe nicely aligned before brad nailing generously.










I cut the under sides at a 30 degree angle to help hide the joints.










Voila. Now I think it's time to do some clean up. You know it's bad when you actually have to start vacuuming the walls:


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 01/10/12:

Got a late start tonight but did accomplish some things.

I was impressed on how well the kreg screws and glue held the three large pieces of oak for the front step together. I didn't get too bold, but I was able to lift, flip and position it without creating any cross braces for it. Once in position, I routed out the top and sanded.




























I then finished making and sizing all my oak pieces for the top of the stage. 

Ready for assembly with the Kreg jig again.










Glued and screwed upside down on the stage.









I'm hoping I'll have some time tomorrow night to sand the front and put on the bottom lip.

I'm holding off on doing the bull nose areas for now since I'll be constantly walking by them to construct the front stage. I'll wait until the front is closer to completion.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 01/13/12:

Recap from last nights work.


Added 1/2" base shoe to the oak top for the stage. 










Finished putting 1/4" oak plywod on fronts of stage. Little tricky given the one large piece with the cutout and three 45 degree angles. I used painters tape along the cut line and cut the oak plywood upside down to prevent fraying the edges. I also notched the front step a 1/4" to snugly fit in the oak plywod. I ended up just liquid nailing it and used some carpenters glue.










Turns out I missed a screw. Didn't realize this until going through these pictures.









Now I just need to assemble the one large piece with the two side wings. I'll probably go with the Kreg Jig again. Then finish adding the base shoe to the side wings. 









As of now, I'm leaning towards OSB or MDF on the remaining areas of the stage. MDF might be a little easier to maneuver the subs in/out than the OSB.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 01/15/12:

Here's a quick update from yesterday. 

I'll post more photos later when time permits.

But I finished assembling the top layer of the stage. I ended up using Green Glue and MDF. I broke out the biscuit joiner for the first time. Pretty cool little gadget.










I spent a couple hours just cleaning up the room and vacuuming.

Now I'm ready to start assembling the front wall on top of the stage.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 01/16/12:

Here are some more detailed pics of Saturday's work in the theater.

Notched the oak along the wall so it will be easier to put the 3/4" MDF on the lower wall.









Marked the center of the #20 biscuit joints:









Cut biscuit joints:









Dry fitted:









Serving up a dish of green glue. I didn't feel like cleaning out the gun for such a small section:






























I used biscuits to join some of the MDF to the OAK.









Cleaned up the theater before starting the next phase.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 01/21/12:

I made some more progress last night. As I worked on my plans for the front wall, I needed to verify that my chair rail on the front wall landed in the same spot as what was in 3D since a cabinet door was falling just below the chair rail. I noticed it was about a 1/2" off. Which lead me to breaking out a laser level to see why.

Turns out there is a little pitch to the room. I opted to adjust a couple of the columns down in the back of the room to compensate. Because the chair rail runs in between two pieces of moulding and I have it centered within that space I didn't want to take the chance of it being noticed. I'm also putting the lower MDF wall at the exact height of the top of the chair rail. It's challenging to get tight moulding joints let alone without having to cheat things at an angle. 

Once I had the laser level set I just decided to start putting up the lower wall MDF since I had the pieces already ripped.

I'll be building fabric panels for the upper portion of the wall. I'm still debating if I should just install the crown moulding first and then fit the fabric panels below or install the fabric panels and then the crown moulding directly on top of the fabric panels. Installing the crown first would give me an option to replace the fabric in the event it were damaged. Installing on top of the fabric panel requires less work and accuracy when building the panels and I don't have to worry about a clean finished edge where the crown meets the fabric panel.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 01/22/12:

I made a nice dent in the theater yesterday.

I finished leveling and mounting all the in-room columns and installing some more of the lower 3rd MDF on the wall. I also ended up putting another gang box in the front column where I put in a cat5 cable. That will allow IR control of any LED step lighting.





































So I'm still trying to nail down the front and make sure I can get the subs in/out.

I'm leaning towards removing the chair rail from the front in order to make the cabinet door 3" bigger to about a 2'3" tall opening. That should get me a 2' sub in the door.

Otherwise it'll be too hard to maneuver a 130 lb 2' sub in and out.

Here are some original vs new concept renders. I think I'm liking the cleaner look anyways.

Original with Chair Rail on Front Columns









New Concept without Chair Rail and Larger Cabinet Door










Original with Chair Rail on Front Columns









New Concept without Chair Rail and Larger Cabinet Door


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 01/23/12:

I'm out of my league trying to design a flush cabinet door since I've never done it. I may have to do a little online digging to find out tips and tricks. I'm also deciding whether to make the entire roughly 7' door swing open or just the bottom half. 


To give my mind a break yesterday, I wanted to at least get something done that didn't require thinking. So I installed the 1/4" oak along the front of first row riser. Some areas are a little higher than the riser so I'll use a dremel to sand it flush.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 01/26/12:

I took a photo of the Fidelio, Protostar and SyFabrics Black Plush Triple Velvet.

It's hard to tell the difference between the Triple Velvet and the Fidelio (Small sample).

The Protostar is noticably not as dark in my testing. Perhaps it reacts differently in a darker room or absorbs light differently than the velvet? But to my untrained eye, it doesn't look as dark as the two velvets.

In varying applications though (even my own), Protostar may be the better choice.










I left the carpet and white baseboard in the picture so you could see that it was taken in natural window light. If you have an LCD monitor and look down from a standing position rather than straight at your monitor, you may see a bigger difference in the darknesses. At least on mine I do.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 01/29/12:

I installed some 1/4" oak over the edges of the double layer OSB behind the front row.









Then I routed all edges on the remaining bull noses and dry fitted everything to make sure I was in good shape. I used a 1/2" round over bit on the fronts and a 1/8" round over bit on the back side edge that faces the carpeting. I'm using biscuit joints to connect them. But next phase will be installing the base shoe underneath.


















I wanted sharp edges at the corners. So I routed each piece individually. To prevent from rounding the corner, which is easy to do, I'd butt a scrap piece of wood right next to the piece I was routing so I could route right through the end.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 01/30/12:

Yesterday I finished all the bull nose pieces. They just need a good sanding that I'll do closer to the end of the project. I may need to order some LED lighting for the steps. I'm not sure how easy it will be to install it behind the upside down base shoe on the bull nose/steps once the bull nose is completely installed.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 02/01/12:

I finally dove into tackling the front wall angled corner cabinetry last night. I also ordered flat black hinges that should work well with the 3/4" pine.

Here's the plan I came up with:









I started by routing a 1/2" 45 degree on one side of a 1x2:










Then I flipped that same piece over and routed a 1/4" 45 degree on the other side:









Then I sanded and connected to the side walls using the Kreg Jig and Glue:


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 02/06/12:

I didn't make much progress due to the Super Bowl. 

But I did almost finish assembly of the two front corner cabinet frames.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 02/08/12:

I was able to get both corner cabinets attached to the walls using a 2x4 and a 4x4 post on the room interior side.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 02/09/12:

I got a start on the top of the center cabinet. I decided to use 3/4" MDF. Like the oak, I'll put a base shoe underneath it to add some meat to the front. Then I plan to wrap it with a dark fabric. The base shoe will give me a nice way to hide staples, glue and the edge of the darkening matrial.

I needed a 12'6" piece so I could trace the front of the stage curve so I connected two pieces together with the Kreg and glue. I may make a 2' section in the middle of the top removable so I can get a sub in/out easier. I think the darkening material will hide the seam well.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 02/10/12:

I traced my cut lines from the front stage for the top of my front wall cabinet.









Then using the jig saw, I cut along the curve.









I'll be mirrioring this for the bottom portion of the cabinet as well. It just won't be quite as deep.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 02/11/12:

I made some progress on the bottom portion of the front wall cabinet.
I used the top curve to trace the bottom section. I plan to attach a 1x2 maple to the front for a finished edge. The top will have a couple inch over hang.










After tracing the curve, I used the jigsaw and just cut near the line leaving about an 1/8".

Then I used a router with a flush trim bit to cut it down.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 02/12/12:

Here are some pictures from yesterdays work on the front wall cabinetry.

I started by routing an 1/8" round over on the cabinet top. This will allow the fabric to rollover nicely when I wrap it. I might bump it up to a 1/4" though.









Then I routed the edge of my 1x2 Maple that will be showing on the room side. Next I used the Kreg Jig and marked areas where I thought I could place screws and avoid the supports that will go inbetween the cabinet doors.

I was able to use the bottom shelf of the cabinet as a perfect way to wrap the 1x2 onto the larger top. In the picture below, everything is flipped upside down. So the top layer is actually the bottom side of the bottom of the cabinet. And the 3/4" MDF below that is the under side of the cabinet top.









I used 1" coarse threads to screw into the 3/4" mdf.









I extended the 1x2 over the edge. Then I just have to flip it over and cut off the extra with a jig saw flush to the mdf.









Not sure what best practice is, but any joints along the curves I've been cutting at a 30 degree angle. I had to use two 1x2's in order to make the full 12'+ curve. They seem to glue nicely together at that angle. I also make sure I cut both pieces while the saw is set at that angle before readjusting the saw. 









Here's the routed edge of the maple.









After the glue dried, I started brad nailing and attaching the base shoe to the cabinet top under side edge. There's a nice little gap between the shoe and 1x2 for me to brad nail, staple or glue the fabric and have it hidden from view.









Here's a side profile of the top upside down. Remember, that top layer of MDF is the bottom and not attached aside from the clamps as a guide.









Here are both pieces assembled.









Today, I'll be attaching a 1x2 to the front of the base of the cabinet arch made of MDF. I've predrilled all the Kreg holes already.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 02/13/12:

Here's some progress from yesterday.

I attached the 1x2 maple to the front of the bottom of the cabinet arch. Unfortunately my camera battery died so I didn't get a shot of how I did it. But I basically stacked the top and bottom layers together. I had already marked where I had clamped and screwed the top of the cabinet piece. I made those same markings on the lower mdf arch. This was to ensure that my arch matched as closely as possible between the two pieces. As you bend the board, you can see where the arch isn't always perfect. By stacking the two layers, I was able to make sure that the 1x2 lined up. So when I add the middle supports from top to bottom, they should be spot on.

Here's a shot of the lower section of the cabinet. BTW, I've learned to mark my factory edges with blue painters tape. It's a good thing to do so you know it's a perfectly straight piece. I've been doing this pretty religously especially when you plan to rip multiple pieces...it's good to always work off the factory straight edge.









I had routed the edges that would be visible with a 1/8" round over bit before attaching:









Snapshot of the how I connected the 1x2 along with glue.









I wanted to see how it looked so I just rested it up there on some stools. It's sitting several inches higher than the finished product. I'm playing with the vertical dimensions. I was planning to cut the middle section of the top shelf into 3 pieces so I could remove the center to get the sub in / out. I'm rethinking that and may just make the opening another 1/2" taller instead.



























So I've come up with an Option C that seems like it should work and look very close to option b. I'll just need to order different hinges to make it work.

I'll continue to use the 1x2 inbetween the cabinets, but instead rotate them so only the 3/4" side is facing the front. I'll just need to notch each side to get around the 1x2 lips I added to the top / bottom of the cabinet. I played around with the depth of my miter saw and it's actually easier than expected once I got the hang of it and found the center of the saw blade.












Here are the renders of Option C. The edges look sharp, but I'll be adding a 1/8" rounder over edge along the outsides:


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 02/15/12:

I made some temporary supports to see how I liked the height of the front cabinet and double check measurements with the computers. Doing so I caught an issue with one of my front corner cabinets. So I had to re-align it and level. I'm just glad I caught it now.

My plan is to build the cabinet free standing so I can slide it in / out for now. Then once complete I'll attach it to the 4x4 posts. I still need to treat the corner cabinet sides with some material. So keeping it free standing allows me to do that once I'm closer to the end. I fear I'd end up damaging the material otherwise during construction.










I thought I'd show I notched the divider for the front cabinets. I needed to make a 1.5" x 3/4" deep cut on one end and a 3/4" x 3/4" notch on the other. I started by routing the face of the boards that reveal into the room. Then made my cut marks.





















Then I adjusted the depth stop on my miter saw and did a few practice cuts. It was easy to get it to a 3/4" depth though just by sliding a 3/4" board and butting the saw blade to it. 












Then I proceeded to make small cuts from the end of the board towards my finished cut mark. I had to cut to size a small block that would push my 3/4" divider out to the middle of the blade so my cuts were even on both sides. The blade is round. 










The finished product.










I initially had the 1x2 dividers with the thicker side facing the room just because I thought notching it with a jig saw would be too much work and not that accurate. This method worked much better and faster and allowed me to get the design I initially was going for.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 02/17/12:

I stacked the top and bottom of the front wall cabinet so I could rough mark where the 1x2 dividers will go. That will hopefully help keep me square and give me some to eye as I align the top and bottom.










Then I installed some corner supports. I wished I wouldn't have used the soft pine, but I had sitting there. I added some cleats to help keep the vertical 3/4" mdf supports square.









I used the Kreg drill bit to make these recessed screw holes.









Finally, I attached the top to the corner supports to get the two pieces aligned properly. The 4x4's are just temporary. I need to install the 1x2's first before I can add the 3/4" MDF supports behind them.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 02/18/12:

Last night I started on the front wall cabinets.

I started by mounting the first divider. I used the Kreg drill bit to screw through the notched area. Then screwed and glued it to upper and lower shelves.









Here's a snapshot of the cabinet construction:









I mounted the hinges 2.5" from each edge. The same height as the railes and stiles. Then attached it to the divider. A bit tricky to do while balancing it. But you get a little play with the holes in the hinges as long as you get close.









The door swings all the way open which will be nice when moving the sub into the cabinet.


















Here's the moulding I'll be using on the inside frame. Only the 3/4" edge and 1/4" lip of the moulding touches the cabinet. I'm wondering if that's enough surface to attach the moulding or do I need to build something behind as well?



























I still need to use the 1/8" round over bit on all the cabinet edges. I guess I'll have to dis-assemble the doors/hinges in order to paint them anyways.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 02/19/12:

I finished constructing all the center cabinet doors today. All my divider marks that I pulled from the 3D model I built before hand was pretty much spot-on. 

Here are some pics:


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 02/20/12:

Here's another composition at this stage of the game.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 02/22/12:

I finished one of the corner cabinet double doors. I decided to add a divider in between the doors for several reasons. 
1) This would give me room to correct the doors individually
2) Add's a nice design element and custom look
3) Should help keep the opening square
4) I can also use it to mount the magnetic push latch for both top/bottom doors
5) I may use it later to mount some 3/4" moulding to divide the doors visually like I've done with the other side columns

Only downside is the opening was divided. But there's still plenty of room to get a sub under it.

I had a of a time getting straight boards, especially for the big door. I had to pick through quite a bit and ended up with a lot of wasted material that just wasn't usable. I was probably getting one stile or rail per 8' board. I noticed after completion there's still a little skewing to the large cabinet door. Is there anyway to retrain the door if I compress it for a few days or will it always return? My thought was to use a top magnet to pull it in flush with the frame. The moulding will hopefully have a positive effect on the doors when I glue them on.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 02/23/12:

I was having a of time finding any maple that didn't have some bowing to it (aside from other issues like cupping and warping). So working with what I had, I thought I would counter the bowing with another adjoining board.

So I found the natural bowing of the board and placed the perpendicular adjoing board with the bowing in the other direction. Hoping the two would counter-act each other and meet somewhere in the middle. That seemed to give me good results on the second large door I built.

Here's an illustration that will hopefully make some sense. This may be common knowledge or maybe I just got lucky, but I did have good results.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 02/24/12:

Here's a shot of the right front corner cabinet door installed. Bottom is built but just waiting on hinges.









I also cut the lower wall MDF by the steps. A little tricky with all the steps to workaournd but it turned out good. Does anyone know if it's critical for me to leave a half inch gap where it will meet with carpeting? I still am going to put up baseboard.



















I just need to finish the lower mdf wall next to the front stage and then I can make final cuts on the bull nose and stair tread before attaching.


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## mcascio

Photos and Documentation from 02/27/12:

I finished cutting the MDF for the lower front walls. If I'm right, I may only need to rip one more sheet of MDF down for the rear of the room. Woohoo!

I also started removing the cabinet doors and sanding and routing the edges with a 1/8" round over bit. Then I applied some base cap moulding that I'm using throughout the room before running out of moulding.


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## mcascio

Ok. Hope you've stuck with me thus far. I'm finally caught up with where I'm at in the project. Not much accomplished this past week due to work, being sick and a jambed finger. But will try to dig in this weekend on some more.


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## Prof.

Fantastic workmanship!! :clap: :TT You wouldn't be a Carpenter by any chance! 
Can't wait to see the finished result..


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## mcascio

Thanks very much. Actually, this was my first time doing any carpentry work like this. The only other thing I did about 6 years ago was build a horseshoe pit. And even then I had help.


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## Prof.

Wow!!..I doubt a professional Carpenter could do a better job! Well done..:T


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## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Wow!!..I doubt a professional Carpenter could do a better job! Well done..:T


That's a great compliment. I appreciate that.


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## mcascio

I experienced a lull due to being sick and jambing my finger but am back in the swing. 

I managed to finish all the mouldings on the front cabinets. I also finished adding the 3/4" mdf supports in the front center cabinet. I can now sit or stand on it without worry. The temporary 4x4 supports have now been removed. 

I also mounted all the magnetic touch latches.

I ran into a bit of a snag where ther chair rail I was planning on wasn't in stock at the lumber yard. I'm hoping they'll be restocking since I centered everything around the 3" chair rail. Going to a 2 5/8" will get me off center a bit.

Here are the photos from the progress.


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## DESCypher

Wow I love that stage. Nice work man nice work.


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## DESCypher

mcascio said:


> Photos and Documentation from 10/20/11:
> 
> 
> Looks like we've stuck pretty close the actual plan thus far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No seats in the render:


What are those holes or cutout in the middle for?


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## mcascio

DESCypher said:


> What are those holes or cutout in the middle for?


Thanks for the compliments on the stage. If you are referring to the square openings on the cabinet doors. I'm going to put black GOM fabric there once the doors are painted.


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## DESCypher

No I'm talking about the squares in the middle of the floor before the riser.


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## mcascio

DESCypher said:


> No I'm talking about the squares in the middle of the floor before the riser.


Ah. That's the DBox motion platform for the front row. It will move the 3 seats in sync with the movie. 

I document the construction of it here if you want to check it out:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...theater-construction-thread-4.html#post503458


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## DESCypher

Oh that's really cool. Yes I'll read about it. Thanks...


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## mcascio

There's also a video on their website you could check out:
http://www.d-box.com/en/home-theatre/


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## Homeincontrol

Two words for this thread and theater; Absolutely exquisite!


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## ALMFamily

You know, reading threads like this one make me realize how woefully under-qualified I am to be building my own HT. :R

In all seriousness, fantastic workmanship. :TT When the room is all said and done, I may just take an hour drive and see this beauty in person! :bigsmile:

A quick question if you do not mind - you said you got the 4" LED canned lights at Home Depot. Are those the Lithonia model?


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## mcascio

Homeincontrol said:


> Two words for this thread and theater; Absolutely exquisite!


Thanks. I just stumbled on yours too! Incredible!


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## mcascio

ALMFamily said:


> You know, reading threads like this one make me realize how woefully under-qualified I am to be building my own HT. :R
> 
> In all seriousness, fantastic workmanship. :TT When the room is all said and done, I may just take an hour drive and see this beauty in person! :bigsmile:
> 
> A quick question if you do not mind - you said you got the 4" LED canned lights at Home Depot. Are those the Lithonia model?


Cool. Madison is not too far away. You're welcome any time.

I used these LED lights in the ceiling:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...ay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=ecosmart 4&storeId=10051

The IC rated housing I bought was from Lowe's. I can get the model if you'd like.


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## ALMFamily

The Lithonia model I was looking at is only dimmable to 15% - have you played with the dimming of these at all to notice if they reach that mark and then just pop off? Or, are they "fully" dimmable?


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## mcascio

ALMFamily said:


> The Lithonia model I was looking at is only dimmable to 15% - have you played with the dimming of these at all to notice if they reach that mark and then just pop off? Or, are they "fully" dimmable?


I do not know the minimum dimmable amount. I do know that they go very low to the point it's barely visible. 
I've experimented with other brands and this is by far my favorite. The color temp is right on with other incandenscents so if you need to match them. Other's had delays when turning on, wrong colors, bad mounting methods that wouldn't grip the housing.

I'd highly recommend this model. I bought one about a year ago for my kitchen and have since outfitted the entire house with them wherever possible. I think I'm at about 60 of them now with the theater.

Buy one, assuming you have a nearby Home Depot, and take it back if you don't like it. They are quite expensive though.


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## Prof.

ALMFamily said:


> You know, reading threads like this one make me realize how woefully under-qualified I am to be building my own HT. :R


I know exactly how you feel Joe!..I feel so amateurish by comparison! :R


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## ALMFamily

mcascio said:


> I do not know the minimum dimmable amount. I do know that they go very low to the point it's barely visible.
> I've experimented with other brands and this is by far my favorite. The color temp is right on with other incandenscents so if you need to match them. Other's had delays when turning on, wrong colors, bad mounting methods that wouldn't grip the housing.
> 
> I'd highly recommend this model. I bought one about a year ago for my kitchen and have since outfitted the entire house with them wherever possible. I think I'm at about 60 of them now with the theater.
> 
> Buy one, assuming you have a nearby Home Depot, and take it back if you don't like it. They are quite expensive though.


If you do not mind, I would like to price that compared to the Lithonia model. Would yopu be able to link the housing you got from Lowes?

Thanks!

Joe


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## mcascio

ALMFamily said:


> If you do not mind, I would like to price that compared to the Lithonia model. Would yopu be able to link the housing you got from Lowes?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Joe


I went with this housing iN my soffit:
http://www.lowes.com:80/pd_90674-38...c1&Ntt=ic1&N=0&langId=-1&storeId=10151&rpp=24

You can go with less expensive housing. For my soffit, I needed a housing that wouldn't bleed light through and was low profile.


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## mcascio

Not much excitement to report this week. I had to shut down cutting while I sprayed all of the remaining LED can lights with Flat Black.


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## engtaz

Wow, I'm blown away with the quality work and you well though out design of your theater. Congrats on a job well done.


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## JBrax

I just have to ask…are you in construction as a profession? That is some serious meticulous planning and execution.


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## Owen Bartley

This build is so impressive, mcascio, you should be very proud of what you have accomplished! The planning, the carpentry, the composite wireframe diagrams(!)... this is a huge inspiration. I won't be able to approach the level of professionalism you have here, but I like seeing things come together as neat and tidy as in your thread. Absolutely fantastic work so far.

I also had a question about the layer of recycled denim on the screen wall... I looked back and didn't see much info about this, is it just an alternative to putting OC703 or something on the wall, and was it chosen specifically for any reason? Thanks!


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## mcascio

engtaz said:


> Wow, I'm blown away with the quality work and you well though out design of your theater. Congrats on a job well done.


Thanks engtaz. I'm looking forward to the day I can just walk in the theater and actually watch something rather than cut something.


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## mcascio

JBrax said:


> I just have to ask…are you in construction as a profession? That is some serious meticulous planning and execution.


I wish JBrax. If I was, I'd probably be done by now.  I'm in the exact opposite profession. I work with a mouse and keyboard all day developing home automation software. It's my first time doing anything like this...so it's been a great learning experience. Forums like this have helped guide me along the way.


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## mcascio

Owen Bartley said:


> This build is so impressive, mcascio, you should be very proud of what you have accomplished! The planning, the carpentry, the composite wireframe diagrams(!)... this is a huge inspiration. I won't be able to approach the level of professionalism you have here, but I like seeing things come together as neat and tidy as in your thread. Absolutely fantastic work so far.
> 
> I also had a question about the layer of recycled denim on the screen wall... I looked back and didn't see much info about this, is it just an alternative to putting OC703 or something on the wall, and was it chosen specifically for any reason? Thanks!


Thanks Owen. I do have a sense of pride in getting this far. I probably spend more time in the 3D world than actually building the room. It's much easier to make changes in the 3D layout.

I'd seen other theaters designed by the pro's using the recycled denim on the screen wall. There is foil on one side and denim on the other. This also proves to be helpful in attaching the denim to the wall but also for absorbing frequencies. It's more expensive, but I also like the fact of not having to deal with fiberglass...especially after hanging so much of it in my basement and theater. I can track down a link to the product if you like.


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## DESCypher

mcascio said:


> I wish JBrax. If I was, I'd probably be done by now.  I'm in the exact opposite profession. I work with a mouse and keyboard all day developing home automation software. It's my first time doing anything like this...so it's been a great learning experience. Forums like this have helped guide me along the way.


I'm amazed even more now! You mean you have NEVER done this level of construction before and you did this good of a job? Man I can't even think about tackling a simple job let a lone this level of construction. Amazing! Great job.


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## mcascio

I scored one of my 1/8" hardboards down to size to fit the soffit. Then used a dremel to cutout the can light holes. I plan to attach the center area of each soffit, then back fill with the corner wedges that I can tuck the fabric underneath. Had to run out and get some more screws before I could proceed any further. I plan to screw up the hardboard first, then cut the can light holes. As long as that goes smoothly, I'll use liquid nails and rescrew it back in place.


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## mcascio

DESCypher said:


> I'm amazed even more now! You mean you have NEVER done this level of construction before and you did this good of a job? Man I can't even think about tackling a simple job let a lone this level of construction. Amazing! Great job.


I built a horseshoe pit about 6-7 years ago.

After my basement was finished, I thought I'd tackle putting in shelving to save a few bucks. Which helped me get some experience with the hand saw. Other than that, it's my first rodeo.


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## DESCypher

Nice; I actually built a horeshoe pit too years ago... lol


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## mcascio

After scrapping the idea of using the 1/8" hardboard under the soffit, I was able to cut a 1/8" channel groove to push the fabric into and give me the clean lines I was after in the corners.

I used a dremel freehand and it worked out better than expected. I thought it was going to be very difficult to get a straight line. 










And the end result should look similar to this rendering.


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## mcascio

I'm close to finishing all cuts for the lower 1/3 MDF wall.









I'm still trying to finalize how I'm going to access the patch panel. I'm thinking of just making a hinged door that opens. I'm just not sure if I want to make it blend in with the upper red fabric wall or make it look like one of the front cabinet doors. I may have to play around with it in 3D first.


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## Homeincontrol

What program do you use for the 3D renderings?


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## Owen Bartley

Mario, thanks for explaining the denim. I will have to keep watching this thread, because (to me at least) it is an inspiration to take your time and do things carefully, and the results will be simply amazing. I'll have to try to remember that when it comes time for my own build. Keep up the fantastic work!


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## mcascio

Homeincontrol said:


> What program do you use for the 3D renderings?


The 3D renderings are created using Newtek's Lightwave3D. Not your typical everyday software and is more used in the commercial industry for things like movies, tv series [Star Trek] and tv commercials [M&M's].


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## mcascio

Owen Bartley said:


> Mario, thanks for explaining the denim. I will have to keep watching this thread, because (to me at least) it is an inspiration to take your time and do things carefully, and the results will be simply amazing. I'll have to try to remember that when it comes time for my own build. Keep up the fantastic work!


Thanks Owen.

My philosophy has been to do most of the work in the 3D world first. You can play with everything before you start. Modify colors, dimensions, get things lined up across the room, etc. I'll probably spend longer than most because of this, but it has hopefully saved me time and money during construction and will show in the end result...if I ever get there.


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## mcascio

I've been playing around with different ideas for the hinged patch panel door.

Here are a few concepts:

This is a maple frame with moulding and black gom fabric to match the front cabinets. I can also put some denim in the frame for acoustics.









Same thing as above but with red GOM fabric to match the upper wall fabric.









This would be a hinged door frame that would be completed covered with red GOM fabric. Designed to blend into the upper wall.


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## ALMFamily

If I had a vote :whistling:, it would be for the black. I like how it stands out from the rest of the area.


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## DESCypher

Black for me too


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## Prof.

Likewise..


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## Owen Bartley

I like the black one too. Second choice would be the all-fabric covered door that blends in. I think the red framed in black looks a little odd... like a picture fell out or something, but that's just me. 

Did you mention previously what program you do the 3D work in? It looks awesome.


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## mcascio

Owen Bartley said:


> I like the black one too. Second choice would be the all-fabric covered door that blends in. I think the red framed in black looks a little odd... like a picture fell out or something, but that's just me.
> 
> Did you mention previously what program you do the 3D work in? It looks awesome.


Thanks guys. I'm leaning towards black too. 
I'm pretty sure I mentioned it above, but I'm using Newtek's Lightwave3D for the renderings and modeling.


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## mcascio

I ended up rebuilding part of the patch panel wall so I could make sure the door was perfectly centered. I didn't want the moulding on the lower 1/3 wall to be centered and not line up with the upper door. I also cut the mdf and placed the gang boxes below the patch panel. I had to just make sure the moulding wasn't going to go through the gang boxes per my plan. So they are a bit higher than normal.

I had cut holes in the plywood that the rack sits on so I could drape the cables through. But I'm thinking I might cover those back up in case I drop something down there and just neatly tie up the extra cables.

I've also made the opening a bit taller to fit the space better. The renderings made it look like the door was too short for the space. But it also allows me to remove the patch panel if I ever needed to. The old design pretty much locked it in there.


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## Owen Bartley

Thanks Mario, I must have missed it before. I haven't used Lightwave since the mid-late 90's, but even then is was a slick program. That was back in high school and I've drifted away from most digital graphics and modelling programs since then, except the basic Photoshop stuff. It's nice to get a peek at someone's work in 3D again.


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## mcascio

That's funny. I started with Lightwave3D around the same time back when it was available on the Amiga. I also had Newtek's VideoToaster. I remember doing a 3D logo animation for a commercial and I had to get the 3D layout done so I could start rendering because it was going to take 21 days to completely render a 12 second animation....and then you crossed your fingers and hoped nothing would go wrong with your $2000 2 GB hard drives.


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## Owen Bartley

LOL, amazing... 21 days to render 12 seconds. Those were the days. I got my first use of it in high school, in "communications technology" class, which was basically just a class where we got to fiddle with electronic gizmos, build simple circuit boards, experiment with graphics and video editing, all kinds of fun stuff. The problem was that we only had 2 computers that could run the good programs, and the Power Mac with dual monitors was always being hogged by a few guys, so the machine I got to play with it on was pretty slow. Either way, I loved it, and had a blast building simple logos and text animations for projects.


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## mcascio

Owen Bartley said:


> LOL, amazing... 21 days to render 12 seconds. Those were the days. I got my first use of it in high school, in "communications technology" class, which was basically just a class where we got to fiddle with electronic gizmos, build simple circuit boards, experiment with graphics and video editing, all kinds of fun stuff. The problem was that we only had 2 computers that could run the good programs, and the Power Mac with dual monitors was always being hogged by a few guys, so the machine I got to play with it on was pretty slow. Either way, I loved it, and had a blast building simple logos and text animations for projects.


Sounds like a great class. It's crazy to think my four year old already knows how to work an iPad. I found it funny when she tried swiping the laptop screen though.


----------



## mcascio

Still picking away at this patch panel area.

I think I have a final game plan for the black hinged door. It's a bit larger than originallly intended but I think it looks good and will prove functional.









I added another shelf under the patch panel to close the holes I originally cut to allow the cables to drape down to the ground and out of the way. I think by time I terminate all the cables, there will only be a handle left unused so it won't be as messy. I put some black roofing felt on top of the shelf just so I didn't have to look at the bare plywood. I also put roofing felt on the cement before placing the insulation below the panel. I mounted an outlet right to the patch panel after spraying it black. 

I need to install the remote temperature sensor in the MDF lower wall...probably just below the chair rail. It's small and paintable, but it's designed to be screwed into soft drywall. So I'll need to get a little creative.










I also picked up the paint and primer yesterday. So I'm hoping to get some samples primed and painted over the weekend.


----------



## Prof.

That looks perfect! :T More in keeping with the fabric panel size..


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> That looks perfect! :T More in keeping with the fabric panel size..


Thanks. I'm liking it too.


----------



## mcascio

I started priming (using Zinnser BIN) sample MDF yesterday and am applying three different paints this morning so I can determine which route to go. I also made a corner out of MDF so I can do a test treatment on that. I sanded the edges smooth to 220 with my orbital sander then applied two coats of sanding sealer to the edges. Then sanded smooth again with a 320 sanding sponge block. 

My question is how easy is it to remove the sanding sealer that I just applied with the 320 sanding block?

While waiting for the primer coats to dry, I tackled the 4 gang outlet in the room. It was already recessed about 3/4" in to the wall before I add another 3/4" from the fabric panel. I hate seeing crooked switches in the wall - especially when you have 4 gangs...so I used a dremel to cut a 4 gang box in half then built a frame to fit it into and attach to the wall. This will also allow me to attach the GOM fabric around.


----------



## mcascio

I finally finished the lower MDF wall below the Patch panel.

I mounted the thermostat temp sensor right below the chair rail. I wanted to flush mount it so it wouldn't be noticable after painting it.

I drilled a recessed hole using a 3/4" paddle bit. I ended up using a triangle to make sure my drill was going perpendicular to the MDF. Otherwise the sensor wouldn't sit flush.









Then another hole with the drill bit.









It fits snugly in after the test fit.









I screwed in the MDF and put liquid nails on the studs behind it. Rewired the electrical outlet and pulled the subwoofer cable into the gang box.









I started sanding the corners of all the columns as well. It was a dust storm in the room but the mask I wore helped.


----------



## mcascio

I finished sanding smooth all the bare MDF edges on the columns and corners down to 220. 










Now I just need to take a sanding sponge and take out the sharp edge on all the corners before applying two coats of sanding sealer.


----------



## Prof.

Mario,

What type of finish are you planning on for the panels and columns?


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Mario,
> 
> What type of finish are you planning on for the panels and columns?


As of now, everything will be Matte black. The ceiling will be flat black.


----------



## Prof.

The reason I asked was because I've just finished painting MDF black.. and I used a product that goes straight over the raw MDF..It's a sealer/undercoat/top coat in one..One coat and it was completely covered!..
I'm sure you would have a similar product there..It saves a lot of time!


----------



## mcascio

Actually, I was planning on priming with Zinsser BIN and then some Matte Black Benjamin Moore paint in 2 coats. So I'm curious what you used.


----------



## sporty_drew

Looks great and is giving me some serious inspiration. 

What are you using for automation of the lights and equipment?


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> Actually, I was planning on priming with Zinsser BIN and then some Matte Black Benjamin Moore paint in 2 coats. So I'm curious what you used.


The paint I used is called "Solver Duraguard"..but I don't know if it's available in the States..
It's a "One Coat" EXTERIOR Acrylic paint..You can paint over just about any type of material with it..with just one coat!
I would think that BM would have something similar, but if not Dulux have a similar product..


----------



## mcascio

sporty_drew said:


> Looks great and is giving me some serious inspiration.
> 
> What are you using for automation of the lights and equipment?


Hi sporty_drew,

Glad I could provide some inspiration.

My entire home is controlled via Cinemar's MainLobby / MLServer combo. It would be a little embarassing if I didn't use the home automation software from the company I work for. 

I'm pretty big into automation. Everything throughout the house is automated including: sprinklers, shades, lighting, security, security cameras, zoned thermostats, green energy, whole house audio/video, movies, music, etc. One of my favorites was the driveway sensors I put in when we built that can tell if a vehicle is coming or going. This then takes a snapshot of the vehicle and emails me a photo of the vehicle. It also announces over speakers in the home and pushes a message to all the Russound Keypads. All touch screens in the home switch to a live view of the car so we can see who it is and track which door they go to. Other sensors are used to turn on / off lights and even plasma's within the rooms based on occupancy.

I'll be doing some neat stuff in the theater as well to automate turning on/off bass shakers and step lighting. I've got a 42" LED TV that will be in the theater foyer that will display a cover art from the playing movie as well - I plan to make it look like a movie poster frame and mount the TV vertically. All components for the theater will be controlled through the Cinemar software as well. This will make it a breeze to configure the Onkyo receiver and play around with various settings. Once the movie starts I'll probably use a standard IR or RF remote to control the movie. The good thing is I can also control just about anything else from that remote through the software by listening for certain IR codes. This comes in handy for toggling lights in the room.


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> The paint I used is called "Solver Duraguard"..but I don't know if it's available in the States..
> It's a "One Coat" EXTERIOR Acrylic paint..You can paint over just about any type of material with it..with just one coat!
> I would think that BM would have something similar, but if not Dulux have a similar product..


Hi Prof.

Thanks for the info. But I thought it wasn't a good idea to use acrylic (water based) paint on MDF because of it's tendency to swell. I could be mistaken. How long ago did you apply it?


----------



## DESCypher

I'm really trying to stop spending money and this thread/build just keeps pulling me back into doing something with my unfinished HT room. Not even close to anything you're doing but it just keeps giving me some inspiration to do other things. I'm huge in automation as well but I haven't even began to look into it. It's something I definitely want to do so I'm watching this thread for sure. That's a huge undertaken I know! Nice work man; I love what you're doing. I also plan to integrate my home cameras into my system overall somehow. I'll take a look at the software you're using.


----------



## mcascio

DESCypher said:


> I'm really trying to stop spending money and this thread/build just keeps pulling me back into doing something with my unfinished HT room. Not even close to anything you're doing but it just keeps giving me some inspiration to do other things. I'm huge in automation as well but I haven't even began to look into it. It's something I definitely want to do so I'm watching this thread for sure. That's a huge undertaken I know! Nice work man; I love what you're doing. I also plan to integrate my home cameras into my system overall somehow. I'll take a look at the software you're using.


Yeah - it seems I always seem to pick the most expensive hobbies too. 

Feel free to give me a call directly when it's time to tackle your home automation. While the Cinemar software is relatively inexpensive compared to comparable solutions, we've always made our software ala-carte so you can build your system in phases without breaking the bank.


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> Hi Prof.
> 
> Thanks for the info. But I thought it wasn't a good idea to use acrylic (water based) paint on MDF because of it's tendency to swell. I could be mistaken. How long ago did you apply it?


It was only a week ago, but I checked one of the panels yesterday and I don't see any sign of swelling..
I'm guessing the sealer part of the paint prevents swelling..:dontknow: According to the paint supplier, it can be used on raw MDF!


----------



## mcascio

I built the corner pine cap using the Kreg. Now I'll just need to round the edges with a sanding sponge and fill the hairline crack where the pieces are joined.




























I feel like with the products I'm using I can avoid the sanding sealer on the edges of the MDF. After sanding smooth, then applying Zinsser MH Ready Patch (to fill the joint cracks), then applying Zinsser BIN Primer and sanding...I don't think the paint will have any problem adhering to the MDF.


----------



## DESCypher

mcascio said:


> Yeah - it seems I always seem to pick the most expensive hobbies too.
> 
> Feel free to give me a call directly when it's time to tackle your home automation. While the Cinemar software is relatively inexpensive compared to comparable solutions, we've always made our software ala-carte so you can build your system in phases without breaking the bank.


Sure will my man! Keep up the great work. I checked out your company site and yes the prices are pretty good. Your server with all the tools are just a little over $2K. Can't beat that.


----------



## mcascio

I ran into a little delay with my pine corner cap on the wall. I noticed it didn't seem to be straight and the wall looked like it was leaning into the room. Sure enough, a level showed it wasn't quite straight. So I had to break away some of the corner bead and shave the drywall down towards the top of the wall to get it straight. I probably could have left it, but I know it would bother me everytime I looked at it.










All the columns have been skimmed with the MH Ready Patch to fill in the joints. Now I just need to sand them down again.


----------



## ALMFamily

Ah, a person after my own heart.  I know that exact feeling - everyone will admire your beatiful space, and you will be pointing out your perceived "flaws". :bigsmile:

My dad shakes his head at me when we are working on something that no one will ever see and I insist on making it as clean as possible.


----------



## Owen Bartley

Looking great, Mario. Your attention to detail (temp. sensor, etc.) looks like it would put many construction pros to shame.

The home automation sounds absolutely amazing too! Remind me to talk to you if I win the big jackpot and get to design our next home from scratch.


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> I ran into a little delay with my pine corner cap on the wall. I noticed it didn't seem to be straight and the wall looked like it was leaning into the room. Sure enough, a level showed it wasn't quite straight. So I had to break away some of the corner bead and shave the drywall down towards the top of the wall to get it straight. I probably could have left it, but I know it would bother me everytime I looked at it.


LOL!..Likewise for me also..I know no one is going to notice that something is not quite square..but I know it's not quite right every time I look at it! :rolleyesno:
I even went to the extent of buying a Laser Level, just to be doubly sure that everything is square! :bigsmile:


----------



## Prof.

double post


----------



## Owen Bartley

I don't blame you guys one bit for being "excessively" picky. Especially when you're the ones who will notice it later, and it will bug you. I'm the same way for a lot of things, once they stick out to me, they'll always stick out. And hey, might as well fix it in the early stages instead of having to do major demo after it has driven you crazy for a year.


----------



## mcascio

Glad I'm not the only one.


----------



## mcascio

I ordered all 32 yards of my Red Claret Accent FR701 from Fabricmate tonight. It looks like they raised their prices 5% from the last time I ordered. But with the AVS discount I actually ended up saving 5% overall from the last time. So not a bad deal.

I finally made some decent progress this weekend. My final push before starting on the crown moulding and few other odds and ends. 

I finished all the corner caps and attached them to the drywall. I patched all the visible screw holes and sanded smooth. Then gave a second coat of the Zinsser MH Ready Patch. Supposedly, it falls somewhere in the middle of drywall compound and bondo. I guess it's similar to a vinyl compound. Sanded really easily and is supposed to get rock hard.


















Then it was time to finish leveling and installing the lower front MDF walls I had built a couple weeks ago. I used a laser level shot across the wall to make sure the two MDF panels lined up. I used a mixture of green glue and liquid nails. Then screwed where the chair rail and baseboard would go. Then a few 18 ga finish nails in the center.









Next it was time to make final cuts to my bullnose and stair tread. I had orginally just made them flush with the wall. But I wanted to make it easier on myself when installing the baseboard to prevent having to cut around the rounded out bullnose. So I cut them the depth of the baseboard. Then the baseboard can just run straight through vertically.


















In the case of the stair tread, I just notched it out to squeeze the 3/4" MDF and baseboard.









On the first level bullnose, once I had it where I wanted it, I screwed in some blocks to keep it from moving left and right. That way when I glued it down, I didn't have to guess where to put it.









I used this Loctite to attach the oak to the OSB.



























I would get once piece glued down loosely and then finish gluing any biscuit joints.









I then used my 18 ga finish nailer to attach the backside of the bullnose at about 140 psi. I only had two nails that didn't go as plan and broke a little of the bottom side of the oak off. It was because I shot the nail a little too low and just chipped off the very bottom edge. I practiced a few times on some scraps before doing it...given all the work that went into the oak portion of this project. I varied the spacing around 6 - 12". Then in some case shot a few straight down on the tops of the board if I felt it need it. I think a little puddy and primer will cover the small hole.



















And the finished project.


----------



## Prof.

Very nice work..as always!  :T
You guys don't know how lucky you are..having a room big enough to have your workshop in there! The most tiring part for me was going back and forth to the workshop to make every cut and join! :whew:


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Very nice work..as always!  :T
> You guys don't know how lucky you are..having a room big enough to have your workshop in there! The most tiring part for me was going back and forth to the workshop to make every cut and join! :whew:


Thanks Prof. I can't imagine having to cut outside the room. That would probably add another month to the build. The downside is the house is constantly dusty.


----------



## Prof.

Yeah!..I could have built mine in a week, if it wasn't for all the walking back and forth!! :rofl2:


----------



## HTip

Only one word comes to mind after reading this thread... AMAZING!!! :TT

It looks like you got some DIY skills 

Seriously, it looks better designed, planned, build than professional created HT's. And your designs look just like the real thing. What program do you use?

Look forward to the next pictures... :T


----------



## mcascio

HTip said:


> Only one word comes to mind after reading this thread... AMAZING!!! :TT
> 
> It looks like you got some DIY skills
> 
> Seriously, it looks better designed, planned, build than professional created HT's. And your designs look just like the real thing. What program do you use?
> 
> Look forward to the next pictures... :T


Thanks HTip.

I'm learning more and more as I go along. I use Newtek's Lightwave3D software to create the models and renders.


----------



## ALMFamily

I think I will purposely slow down progress on my build so I do not get compared to yours Mario!  You are doing just some fantastic work!


----------



## phillihp23

Just curious..whats the distance between the two rows of seats?


----------



## mcascio

ALMFamily said:


> I think I will purposely slow down progress on my build so I do not get compared to yours Mario!  You are doing just some fantastic work!


Thanks ALMFamily. Don't slow down on my account. Theater's take long enough to build!


----------



## mcascio

phillihp23 said:


> Just curious..whats the distance between the two rows of seats?


Depends upon where you actually measure from...but I think I have planned about 2'6". If I opt not to do the back bar, I can push the rear row back even further.


----------



## HTip

mcascio said:


> Thanks HTip.
> 
> I'm learning more and more as I go along.


You're too modest  I learned a lot during my build but I don't have nearly the skills you have!



> I use Newtek's Lightwave3D software to create the models and renders.


Thanks! I will look into that :T


----------



## Owen Bartley

ALMFamily said:


> I think I will purposely slow down progress on my build so I do not get compared to yours Mario!  You are doing just some fantastic work!


ALM, I haven't even started yet, but following Mario's thread has encouraged me to slow down to make sure I do everything right. Taking a little extra time will pay off big time in the long run, if his finish work is any example to go by.


----------



## mcascio

I'm getting closer to needing to do something with the slab door I bought 6 - 8 months ago. A bit premature to say the least.

I think I'll use the the same moulding that I use inbetween the columns on the door to give it that paneled look.


----------



## mcascio

I didn't want to see the bare 2x4 when I opened the Patch Panel doors. So I primed and painted some 1x4's black to line the inside of the cabinet.



















I also built and primed the fabric frame that surrounds the cabinet door. This was probably one of the more frustrating pieces of the project because nothing was square in that corner including the maple 1x3's I used. But with a lot of trimming around the edges with my flush bit I think I have enough space for the fabric to surround it. 

The GOM claret accent fabric came in today so I may get a chance to wrap it sooner than later. I plan to keep the edges of my frames sharp (no bevel) so that should save me some time. I'll probably quickly sand the corners to prevent the fabric from tearing. If anyone has tips on how to handle the inside edges of wrapping my patch panel frame I'm open to ideas. I assume I just need to slit the fabric in the corner at an angle and then wrap the fabric around and staple.











The door I still need to build will fit in the opening and look like the front wall cabinets.


----------



## phillihp23

Your work is amazing. Your theater is astonishing. My theater build is childs play but a huge tasking for me. You are a natural talent. :clap:

Is that mdf board against the walls with trim to create frames (the lower panels on the walls)?


----------



## phillihp23

mcascio said:


> Depends upon where you actually measure from...but I think I have planned about 2'6". If I opt not to do the back bar, I can push the rear row back even further.


In other words when the back row of seats is reclined is the distance 2'6" from the front of the reclined seats to the back of the front row of seats?

Or is it 2'6" from the front of the back row of seats, not reclined to the back of the front row of seats.


----------



## mcascio

phillihp23 said:


> Your work is amazing. Your theater is astonishing. My theater build is childs play but a huge tasking for me. You are a natural talent. :clap:
> 
> Is that mdf board against the walls with trim to create frames (the lower panels on the walls)?


Wow. Mighty kind words. Very much appreciated. 

That is correct. Just 3/4" mdf with moulding to look like wainscoting.


----------



## ALMFamily

Mario,

As far as the wrapping of the fabric around edges - your assumption is correct. At least, that is how I have seen it done on the myriad of other build threads I have read.  Good luck!

Joe


----------



## mcascio

phillihp23 said:


> In other words when the back row of seats is reclined is the distance 2'6" from the front of the reclined seats to the back of the front row of seats?
> 
> Or is it 2'6" from the front of the back row of seats, not reclined to the back of the front row of seats.


This illustration may help. I have a lot of variables for the measurements given the seats are staggered, in a curve and the two rows are on different heights.

It's a bit tighter than I'd like, but given me and my wife and kids are not that tall, it'll work fine for us who will enjoy the theater the majority of the time.


----------



## Prof.

Looks fantastic Mario!! :clap: and the moulding on the door was a good idea..It matches very nicely..:T


----------



## mcascio

I went on a weekend crown moulding bender. I have about 95% of it done aside from the foyer. I went with miter's in the corners rather than coping given the complexity of the crown. Maybe I just haven't had enough practice, but I couldn't seem to produce a good cope. Although I will have to cope one piece. 

I used 18 gauge 1 1/4" brad nails for securing the bottom edge of the crown to the columns and furring strips. Then I used 16 gauge 2 1/2" finish nails to secure the top of the crown to the ceiling. Elmer's Wood Glue Max was used in all the inside and outside corner miters.

I'm hoping the chair rail comes in today.

I started by marking my lines on the ceiling and columns. The 1x2 I mounted to the wall marks the bottom of my crown.


----------



## mcascio

So I'm thinking I may be going with the BM Flat black on everything. There doesn't appear to be much of a difference between the Matte and the Flat.

I was initially worried about burnishing with the Flat black but based on my samples, I don't see any of that happening. In fact, I even took a wet rag and wiped it down without any issues...which completely surprised me. 

My theory is that the Zinsser BIN primer may be the magic ingredient here. Or maybe it's just that it's on MDF. In either case, I'm pretty happy.


----------



## Prof.

Very nice job on the crown mouldings..They look great! :T

I used a low sheen black on my timber..The flat black to me looked a little too dead and lifeless..
You obviously can't see that when watching a movie, but when all the room lights are on, it was obvious against the low sheen panel..
Just a thought..


----------



## ALMFamily

Great work Mario! :T:T


----------



## phillihp23

Prof. said:


> Very nice job on the crown mouldings..They look great! :T
> 
> I used a low sheen black on my timber..The flat black to me looked a little too dead and lifeless..
> You obviously can't see that when watching a movie, but when all the room lights are on, it was obvious against the low sheen panel..
> Just a thought..


Wow Prof. I just posted a similar question on my thread...then bumped over to see this thread..and poof...you had answered my question for someone on this thread. Like a magician. Keep giving out all the great advice.


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Very nice job on the crown mouldings..They look great! :T
> 
> I used a low sheen black on my timber..The flat black to me looked a little too dead and lifeless..
> You obviously can't see that when watching a movie, but when all the room lights are on, it was obvious against the low sheen panel..
> Just a thought..


Thanks Prof. You make a good point. I brought a sample piece of the black moulding into the room and even with the lights on it seemed like a black hole. So maybe a little sheen will help reveal some lines and detail.

My goal though was to prime and paint everything the same...just to make it easier since everything (crown, trim, chair rail, base board) will be already attached to the MDF. 

I had thought about even painting the first one or two sections of the room a flat black and then going with more sheen as you get to the black. This would help reduce reflections from the screen/projector when watching the movie. Just not sure how that would look in the real world though. The columns would act as a divider so you may not notice a difference since they are on different planes.


----------



## mcascio

ALMFamily said:


> Great work Mario! :T:T


Thanks ALMFamily.

I gotta get this train to the station.


----------



## mcascio

Well - I finally finished the crown for the theater. I precut some that I'll need to hang near the front screen and then I'll have to tackle the foyer later.

I was going to have a friend come over and do the final cope but he was leaving on a trip for two weeks. So I thought I'd give it a whirl. I had a few bad 8' boards of crown so I knew I had to get it pretty much right on the first time. Turns out the last corner I had was the worst. It was 3 degree's off, the wall was bowing, the ceiling was pitching, yadda yadda yadda.

I ended up using a jig saw to cut away the bulk of the back side. Then a dremel with a sanding bit. And about an hour and half later I ended up with this.










I squeezed it in as best I could but was fearful I would break off an edge. Man that was nerve wrecking.









Not nearly as clean as all the miter's I did and of course my worst corner is right as you walk in.  Oh well. I think the caulk and black paint will hide everything.

Some final shots. Time for a clean up of the room before moving on to the chair rail.


----------



## HTip

Respect again for the way you construct things. I guess good is not good enough in your book  But that is like the kettle is saying to the pot, hey you're black 

The train is running along nicely :T


----------



## Owen Bartley

Mario, the crown looks great, and that was a nice job you did with the coping. That's no easy feat, and I doubt that you'll be able to see any problems with the finished job. The room looks fantastic and there's still a lot of finishing to come, I really can't wait to see the final room.


----------



## Prof.

Mario..I think you did a very good job on the mitres..considering the complexity of the profile! :clap: :T
I know some of my mitres were not that good, but a bit of wood filler and the black paint, nicely covers up any errors!!


----------



## dguarnaccia

Wow, that is some beautiful Mitre work there. I just bought my own compound Mitre saw for my project, but I don't think I'll achieve something quite as ambitious as what you've done. Hat's off to you sir, that looks like a work of art already :T


----------



## PyroRick

Wow. Great looking theater. Thanks for all the pictures.


----------



## mcascio

HTip said:


> Respect again for the way you construct things. I guess good is not good enough in your book  But that is like the kettle is saying to the pot, hey you're black
> 
> The train is running along nicely :T


I guess we are all our own worst critic.


----------



## mcascio

dguarnaccia said:


> Wow, that is some beautiful Mitre work there. I just bought my own compound Mitre saw for my project, but I don't think I'll achieve something quite as ambitious as what you've done. Hat's off to you sir, that looks like a work of art already :T


Thanks. Good luck with your project. I just wish I would have invested in some of the better tools early on. The right tools for the right job makes everything easier.


----------



## mcascio

PyroRick said:


> Wow. Great looking theater. Thanks for all the pictures.


You bet PyroRick. More to come.


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Mario..I think you did a very good job on the mitres..considering the complexity of the profile! :clap: :T
> I know some of my mitres were not that good, but a bit of wood filler and the black paint, nicely covers up any errors!!



Yeah. It won't be long before I need to start prepping for paint!


----------



## mcascio

I didn't get around to cleaning up the room last night as planned. I was too anxious to get going on the chair rail.

I knocked out about a 1/3 of the room.


----------



## Prof.

The chair rail sets it off nicely..:T


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> The chair rail sets it off nicely..:T


Thanks. Unfortunately the white primed chair rail reminds me of a hospital.


----------



## mcascio

I ended up cutting the pieces standing up vertically against the fence and that was alot better than my original method.

One tip I found was in a couple cases on inside corners I cut the pieces just a 1/16" short or so. I just used a shim behind the chair rail to butt the seam tighter rather than discarding or using that piece elsewhere.

After seeing some of the moulding's in place, I couldn't resist to break out the speaker column grills I had made a while back. It was exciting to see how much it made everything just seem more polished.

I've installed about all the chair rail I can for the moment. Once the door and jamb are installed and the fabric frames, I can finish the rest.


----------



## phillihp23

When your done with your masterpiece are your skills and time for hire :unbelievable:


----------



## mcascio

Here's a 3D / Photo composition layered based on the current stage of the project. I thought the 3D wireframe layer looked cool too.


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> Here's a 3D / Photo composition layered based on the current stage of the project. I thought the 3D wireframe layer looked cool too.


Spooky!!


----------



## mcascio

No developments on the theater last night. I ended up helping my brother build something in there for a project he's working on. Funny when your theater doubles as a wood working shop. 

I did get a chance to test mount a sconce so I could make sure it will clear the mounting brackets.


----------



## phillihp23

Is the chair rail attached to the MDF panel or above it?


----------



## mcascio

phillihp23 said:


> Is the chair rail attached to the MDF panel or above it?


It sits on top of the MDF.


----------



## mcascio

I worked till about 2am last night in the theater. I finished installing all of the lower side column mouldings.

I only had three different moulding sizes to cut. So I used some scrap wood clamped to the fence to act as a stop which makes getting accurate cuts a breeze.

Here's the larger cut. 









To cut the smaller pieces, I just used another block cut to size that I could easily add remove to the fence allowing me to switch freely between the two sizes without reclamping.










Next, I remarked my column sides where the moulding will be installed. I was fortunate enough to use 2" from the front of the column which made it pretty easy to just flush my 2" square against the face and trace my line.










I made everything square off the face of the column and didn't worry about breaking out a level. 

I built this jig so I could clamp it to the face and have a nice hard edge to set my first long piece of moulding.









A little glue before installing.









Then I set it against my block and nailed down.









Then I glued up the two smaller pieces. Followed by the final larger right moulding.









Then nailed while holding the pieces. Make sure you shoot straight otherwise the moulding could shift. I learned to start installing everything in place that are not as visible in the room. So by time I made it to the more visible parts I worked out any kinks. 
This putty knife worked nice to remove any excess glue.










Finally, the completed project.


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## ALMFamily

Ye gods man - 2am?! Did the kids run you ragged the next day? 

As always Mario - great work! :T


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## phillihp23

What size MDF Board should I use on the walls for panels?
The walls are of course already sheet rocked painted etc.

Is it ok to use something smaller than 3/4 inch or are there benefits to the 3/4 inch...such as more sound proofing, better look ?

I now look to Mario for my answers as there is not much he has not done in his amazing build. :TT


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## Prof.

Excellent work as usual Mario!! :T Are you doing the same for the upper section of the columns?


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## mcascio

ALMFamily said:


> Ye gods man - 2am?! Did the kids run you ragged the next day?
> 
> As always Mario - great work! :T


I've been pretty lucky...my kids have been really good through this project. I'm a night owl and have been running on little sleep and energy drinks for years.


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## mcascio

phillihp23 said:


> What size MDF Board should I use on the walls for panels?
> The walls are of course already sheet rocked painted etc.
> 
> Is it ok to use something smaller than 3/4 inch or are there benefits to the 3/4 inch...such as more sound proofing, better look ?
> 
> I now look to Mario for my answers as there is not much he has not done in his amazing build. :TT


The 3/4" will certainly help...although unless I went floor to ceiling, it may not actually do nearly as much. In my case I needed to fur the entire wall out to accomodate the 3/4" fabric frames with denim on the upper walls.

I already had 5/8" osb, green glue and 5/8" drywall plus clips and double walls to address my sound proofing needs.

Not sure I answered your question because I'm not sure what your end goal is.


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## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Excellent work as usual Mario!! :T Are you doing the same for the upper section of the columns?


Yeah. I just need to wait until the room is painted so i don't have to paint around the fabric that is surrounded by the moulding.


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## mcascio

I was hoping to finish up the base boards over the weekend but it didn't happen with it being Easter weekend.

I was able to make a big dent in the room though.


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## PTAaron

Looks great!


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## mcascio

I only had a couple hours to spend in the theater last night.

I completed cutting all the baseboard along a set of stairs.


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## therick83

Crazy awesome Mario, great job!:T


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## Prof.

Looks like you're nearing the finishing line with the timber work!


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## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Looks like you're nearing the finishing line with the timber work!


I keep thinking the same. But then I remember I still have to build a cabinet door for the patch panel. Trim out the theater foyer and build the entire back seated bar area plus do all the trim work around the light soffit.


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## mcascio

I made another big push last night after dinner until about 2am.

I finished putting up all the base for now at least until the door is installed.

I also started on the mouldings in between the columns.

First I cut to size all the vertical pieces since they were all the same size. Trimmed here and there to ensure they were identical in size.

I used my base (4 1/4" tall) as my spacer all around. I started by tracing my shape inbetween the columns on the MDF. Since I made sure to mount the chair rail level to the ground I went off of that as my guide since it would be consistent as opposed to using the base board which fluctuates in height with the ground.

I dabbed a bit of glue on the backside of the moulding, especially in the corners, and pushed the top piece snug against my base board spacer to ensure it was straight and level. Then brad nailed.










Next, I glued the back side and joints of the two side pieces and set in place. 










Then finally glued the bottom piece and placed on the wall. By time you finish positioning all the corners so they are square...the glue should start doing it's magic.










Finally...I brad nailed the remaining sides and bottom to the wall. Make sure to go straight so the moulding doesn't slide.


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## mcascio

I'm looking for a little feedback on the moulding between the chair rail, base and columns in these two renders.

I need to decide whether to have the moulding follow the stairs with an "L" shape or just run it straight. This would be the only place this occurs in the room if I decide to make an "L" shape.

Any thoughts?

"L" Shape









Straight


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## ALMFamily

My vote would be for the "L" shape. While it is true that would be the only place it is used, it maintains the same distance from molding to baseboards as the rest. To me, having that larger space where the step drops and the molding doesn't in the straight one just makes that gap stand out.


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## phillihp23

I like the L also. :bigsmile:


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## phillihp23

By the way, how tall are your wall panels "floor to chair rail"? 3 feet


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## Prof.

Well I'm going for the straight section!  I think it keeps all the moulding below the chair rail the same rectangular shape giving a symmetry to all the mouldings..


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## mcascio

phillihp23 said:


> By the way, how tall are your wall panels "floor to chair rail"? 3 feet


Keep the votes coming. I may not get to this tonight.

The chair rail is 30". I set it lower than normal so the sound treatments would reach ear level when seated.


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## PTAaron

I'm a fan of the "L" shape...


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## moe4ever

I prefer straight, I wouldn't have noticed the L-Shape unless you pointed it out. By the way, great work and It will be an awesome theater, I will be sleeping in it if it was mine.


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## HTip

Tough one. Straight is more in line with the wall. However, the L-shape makes the transition to the larger panels easier on the eyes. All considered I would prefer the L-shape


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## Prof.

Just to add more confusion!  The L shape does emphasise the step up..if that's what you want..


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## NotBananas

I would try both as a dry run. It always looks different in real life than on blueprints (showing my age ). Just tack it on with doublefaced tape and live with it for a day or two.

In my opinion, straight is the way to go. This is the only one that has the L shape, which makes the eyes notice it more than the others.


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## mcascio

Thanks everyone for your feedback and suggestions.

I played around a bit more in 3D with some of the ideas tossed around and in the end went with the "L". I think the straight was more consistent if you see the room as a whole without anything in it...but once you add chairs into the mix, I don't think the eye will be able to notice that "one of these things is not like the other."  Also, when it's all black, it won't pop out as much.

I also finished installing the receptacle's in the columns...not sure why I didn't do that sooner. Would have saved me running extension cords on occasion.


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## Prof.

mcascio said:


> Thanks everyone for your feedback and suggestions.
> 
> I played around a bit more in 3D with some of the ideas tossed around and in the end went with the "L". I think the straight was more consistent if you see the room as a whole without anything in it...but once you add chairs into the mix, I don't think the eye will be able to notice that "one of these things is not like the other."  Also, when it's all black, it won't pop out as much.


Good point!



>


That looks fine..:T


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## phillihp23

I think the "L" was the perfect option. Good Job!!! matter of fact it keeps the distance to the baseboard even and the distance to the chair rail even. No void, like if you went straight.

:T:T:T


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## PTAaron

Looks great, glad you went that way with it. Can't wait to see it all painted!


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## jkvoth

Mario,
I don't know if anyone has asked you this, but how do you have the time to update this thread on both forums?


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## Owen Bartley

At first I liked the straight piece better, but now that you have it in, I think I do prefer the L. If nothing else, at least it shows another painstaking detail that you thought about and made an extra effort to do right.


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## mcascio

jkvoth said:


> Mario,
> I don't know if anyone has asked you this, but how do you have the time to update this thread on both forums?


One trick I've used it keep updates to a separate post. That way I can post them identically across multiple forums with just copy/paste. 

Then answer specific questions in their own post.


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## mcascio

Owen Bartley said:


> At first I liked the straight piece better, but now that you have it in, I think I do prefer the L. If nothing else, at least it shows another painstaking detail that you thought about and made an extra effort to do right.


Yeah - I don't think I could really go wrong either way. 

It was a bit more work adding the L. One trick I discovered was that the two pieces that make up the length of the longer piece could be joined together to ensure that the distances were the same. So I was able to size them pretty accurately. I did shave off a little to accomodate for the turns eating up some.


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## HTip

Good choice on the panels. Looks great :T


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## mcascio

I built my first fabric frame last night and started the 2nd.

I also wrapped the fabric around the patch panel door frame. If I had to do it over again and didn't have to rework the wall, I would have made the whole red fabric panel swing open instead of the two separate pieces. Would have been a cool hidden door too.

I didn't document the first frame I built, but did the 2nd that I started.
I primed the visible side of the 1x2 select pine with some dark gray primer.









Then glued and screwed together using the Kreg pocket jig.









Before assembly, I made sure to use the width of one of my right angle rulers. It's about an 1/8" wide. This makes sure the fabric will fit in to frame.

A test fit before applying the fabric. I found out that I won't be able to remove the fabric panels once the side column trim goes up. So I'll just need to make sure I install them before I get to that step of the project.









I used 1/2" 18 ga staples to attach the fabric with my Porter Cable gun. I ordered a Porter Cable Upholstery Stapler US58 but the staples hadn't arrived yet. The 18 ga I think is too risky on the edge of MDF, but seemed to work fine going into both Pine and Maple.

Here's the two fabric panels I finished.


















The patch panel frame didn't work like I expected as far as wrapping the inside rectangle cutout. I'm thinking because I pulled the fabric tight to the frame, it didn't allow me to get the fabric bank into the inside corners. So you can see some of the exposed wood. I'll have to pick up some 3/4" outside corner to cover it up.


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## mcascio

Worked on the fabric frames again last night.

Quick tip. Pick up one of those pizza roller cutters from the fabric store. I used a ripped piece of MDF as my underside cutting board and drape the fabric over it. Then use a large clamping straight edge to get a nice clean cut.

Here's my temporary fabric center...using two six foot tables. A shot after being stapled. I divided the frame so I could easily squeeze remnant denim into the space. I have some smaller 16" areas...so the remaining leftovers, get used here. And then the left over from this piece then gets used in another frame. It worked out that I use pretty much all the material with little waste.









And then on the wall:










For the sconce wall, I've seen where people just attach mdf/wood around the fixture. But in my case, I wanted the entire frame and cutout to be removable so I don't have to do any stapling later and just attach the frame.

Here's the backside:









Then on the wall:









After stapling the fabric:









I then traced the fixture box with a pencil:









Then I got to break in the new Porter Cable upholstery stapler. I stapled just outside the pencil lines where I knew the backing was:









Next, I used scissors to make a star pattern cutout inside the pencil outline:









As you can see...complete removable now until painting is complete:


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## ALMFamily

I kid you not - you have got to be one of the ingenuitive people I have seen do a build. Very creative Mario! :T


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## Prof.

Excellent work again Mario...You certainly are a perfectionist! 
Do you mean that a pizza cutter actually cut the fabric!! I wouldn't have thought it would be sharp enough to do that! :scratch:


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## HTip

Great job Mario! You really can do anything :T


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## Owen Bartley

Mario, the panels look fantastic. They must be very solid with all those pocket hole joints too. Did you say how you are attaching them in place on the wall? I can't tell if they're just friction fit, or if you have some kind of fasteners.


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## PTAaron

Those panels look really good, I like the color a lot.


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## mcascio

ALMFamily said:


> I kid you not - you have got to be one of the ingenuitive people I have seen do a build. Very creative Mario! :T


Awww shucks. Very kind of you to say.


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## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Excellent work again Mario...You certainly are a perfectionist!
> Do you mean that a pizza cutter actually cut the fabric!! I wouldn't have thought it would be sharp enough to do that! :scratch:


Thanks much. Pizza cutter was my non-technical term.

I guess they are called rotary cutter's:
http://www.joann.com/dritz-pressure-sensitive-rotary-cutter-45mm/prd2762/

Great tool!


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## mcascio

Owen Bartley said:


> Mario, the panels look fantastic. They must be very solid with all those pocket hole joints too. Did you say how you are attaching them in place on the wall? I can't tell if they're just friction fit, or if you have some kind of fasteners.


If everything were straight and square friction fit would have worked; however, between the walls and the wood bowing one way or another just a bit, I'll need to attach them to the wall in a few places.

I'm planning to just shoot a few brad nails angled down a bit through the wood panel and into the drywall. They do fit very tightly...I had a hard time getting one off the wall after I set it in there. I had to use a putty knife to pull it out.


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## mcascio

PTAaron said:


> Those panels look really good, I like the color a lot.


Thanks. Some of the photos make them look a bit more orange than deep red.


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## Prof.

mcascio said:


> Thanks much. Pizza cutter was my non-technical term.
> 
> I guess they are called rotary cutter's:
> http://www.joann.com/dritz-pressure-sensitive-rotary-cutter-45mm/prd2762/
> 
> Great tool!


What a neat tool! I could have done with one of those when I was cutting my fabric..
Stanley flat blade knives just don't do the job!


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## mcascio

I'm almost half way done with the fabric panels. I thought I'd put them all in to see how it looks.

I also hot glued all the corners where I cut away the extra fabric to prevent them from fraying or getting caught on anything.


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## mcascio

I forgot to post pics of this from the other day of how I've been cutting the fabric.

I've found it easier to cut on the floor using my tile as a straight edge.

I'm using a smaller ripped piece of MDF as the cutting board, rotatry cutting tool and straight edge ruler clamp. The roll itself acts as a nice straight edge to butt the MDF to.


It just so happens the one I documented happens to be the one with the yellow tag that indicates there is a flaw in the material. If you look closely in the picture you can see it.



















The rotary cutting tool does a fantastic job of cutting the fabric. Sure beats the expensive scissors I was initially using. I'm hoping the MDF cutting board will keep the blade sharp.










I've also been tracing the fabric frame outlines on the wall before I remove them. Just in case I want to apply the acoustic material to the wall before installing the frame.


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## ALMFamily

Very nice Mario - did you get the clamp at Joann's as well?


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## mcascio

I bought it at a local Menard's (Big Box Builder Store). It's been handy for ripping all the MDF.

One word of caution though. I discovered very early on that the ruler on that clamp is off. Their graphic guy or printer screwed up and it's in no way accurate.


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## ALMFamily

Ah, Menards. I think I am on a 1st name basis with all the building materials guys at mine.  It is probably too much of a convenience for me as they are only about 5 minutes away - I seem to stop there almost every day. I will have a look there for the clamp - thanks!


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## mcascio

Yeah. If I could add up just the number of receipts I have from there this past two years it would probably be 400+. I stopped trying to keep track of receipts for returns. I just use their scanning tool and try to always use the same credit card.


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## TheUnscented

That's quite a build! Didn't see where the urinal was plumbed in. Don't forget the urinal.


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## Prof.

The panels look great Mario! :T


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## HTip

Looks great again Mario :T At the speed you are working I was wondering if you got enough sleep


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## mcascio

TheUnscented said:


> That's quite a build! Didn't see where the urinal was plumbed in. Don't forget the urinal.


The urinal did get plumbed in. We had to create an extra thick wall to allow for the plumbing. I'm not sure I documented that in this thread though.


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## mcascio

HTip said:


> Looks great again Mario :T At the speed you are working I was wondering if you got enough sleep


Not much. I feel like I've been running a marathon though.


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## mcascio

I pulled an 18 hour straight bender this weekend and got quite a bit accomplished.

I knocked out all the fabric frames except for the back door entry wall.

I didn't want to have to use long screws for the outlets and have them be all wobbly so I used the 4 gang box that I cut down to a 3/4" depth and fitted it right into the frame. 








































I ordered an 6"x8" vent cover for my 6" dead vent. Since the vent was larger than the actual opening, I painted the frame and wall black just so you couldn't see anything through the vent.




















After stapling the backside. I stapled around the opening I framed earlier. Then lightly hot glued the edges so they couldn't get snagged. 









Next I marked my holes.









I dabbed a little hot glue before pre-drilling the holes for the screws to hold the vent.









Now I just need to spray the vent black.









Here are some shots with the fabric frames in place. I used some velcro strips on the bottom side so I could easily remove them from the wall.














































Next, I primed the underside of the light tray so it's ready for fabric when the time comes.









I started working on the jambs as well. I decided to go with Poplar for the legs and header. I couldn't justify spending the extra for two jambs in Maple for something that will just get primed.

As usual, it's challenging to find straight stock. So I'll have to swap some boards later.

I made a little jig so I could easily knock out the four rabbett joints for the top of the jamb legs. I think those are called rabbetts. ?!? They are 3/8" deep and 3/4" wide so the header should fit in there nicely.




























I'm at a stand still now until I figure out what my measurements are supposed to be around the door, under the door, jamb to the floor, etc. I couldn't really find anything online that told me how to build a jamb.


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## mcascio

I've commited to cutting the Jamb legs.

For those interested, here's how I figured out my jamb leg height.

From the concrete up:
1) Allow 3/4" for Oak Threshold and Roofing Felt
2) Allow 3/8" Gap for Door to swing open and Automatic Door Bottom
3) Allow 80" For Door Height
4) Allow 1/8" Gap between top of Door and Jamb Header

My Jamb Legs will sit 3/8" Off the concrete - putting it right in the center of the Oak threshold.

After I cut the Jamb Legs (81 5/8") in my case, I snugged them around the door and made sure there was a 1/4" on one side of the door.










With the dado, my header ended up being 37" wide.










I routed all sides that face into the room with a 1/8" roundover bit.










I just did a dry fit after shaving the drywall. The rough opening is only 38". That doesn't give me a lot of wiggle room to level. But it looked like the opening was pretty level.


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## mcascio

I worked on the jamb again last night. Trimming some more drywall and dryfitting both jambs into place to see how much I'll need to shave off the extended jamb. The wall gets bigger in places so I'm trying to think of how I might handle that with minimal gaps. I can see it's going to be challenging to flush both set of jambs. Because you loose access to one side once the first jamb is installed. So shimming becomes an issue.

I liked the idea someone mentioned of doing a dado. If I make it big enough the two jambs should slide together and overlap...but I'll make it so they don't physically touch.

I did route out the door hinges.

I marked my top hinge 7" down from the top of the door and the bottom hinge is 11" from the bottom of the door. The middle hinge was just calculated by finding the center between the top and bottom hinge.









I picked up this Porter Cable hinge jig from Lowes. I managed to break it pounding the set pin in on the last hinge of the door. So I'll need to pick up another to finish the hinges on the jamb leg.

CAUTION: I was just about to start routing the hinge. I figured it was a slab so the door was the same on both sides so it didn't really matter which way the hinges faced because I thought I could just flip the door. Wrong! Because the top and bottom hinges aren't symetrically placed on the door you can't do that. So just make sure you mark the orientation and position of the door and then route. I caught this seconds before firing up the router.










After routing, I had to trim the radius corner with a utility knife to accomodate the black square hinges.










You really need to make sure the set pin goes in straight. I noticed that there's a little play in the jig. So not all my hinges would sit the same distance into the door. The depth was fine. So I may need to just verify when I screw them in that they are all the same. I'm guessing there's not much play when it comes to getting these hinges set correctly. 











My next step is to do the route the jamb leg hinges now before assembling it together. 

Then assemble the jamb, and hange the door. Then drill/route the latch and door knob.


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## mcascio

Got a bit more done on the door situation last night.

I installed the hinges on the door slab. I wanted to ensure the hinges were all equidistant from the edge of the door. So I grabbed my jig I made the other day to route the jambs. It happens that the hinge pin sits about 3/4" from the door. So my jig acted as a stop. One of my routed hinge holes was deeper than the rest which is why I needed to make sure they were all even.










I just screwed in 2 of the 4 screws thus far. I found it somewhat challenge try to get them screwed in perpendicular, straight and centered to the hole.










Next I layed the hinge jamb leg on top of the door and extended it an 1/8" over to leave room at the top. Then traced where the hinges landed. I also later remeasured just to be safe.

Then I routed the hinges out.










I did a test fit and it was nice a snug.










My two jambs were too long to fit between the double walls. So rather than ripping one of them, I made a grove cut (rabbet) along the inside of both jambs so they could almost interlock together. I made the cut a bit deeper so hopefully in the end they don't actually touch. It was just a bit over 3/8" deep and 3/8" wide. This should help me keep the two joints in line with each other but also allow me a bit of play between the two jambs. On top of that, I think it's better for sound proofing and keeping the two walls/jambs decoupled. I plan to use some acoustic caulk in between.





















I screwed the extended jamb together. 










One idea I have for mounting the two jambs is to put a small spacer (< 1/8") in between the jambs and then clamp them together so they become essentially one unit. Then shim them together and nail. Then just remove the spacer leaving the intended gap.


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## mcascio

Here's a recap of last night's festivities.

I found using a larger nail set worked good for getting the screw started in the hinges. Using my drill to pre-drill just seemed to make it worse. So just a nail set and then screw driver. Oh, and a little wax on the screw to make it thread easier. Although I still managed to get a few blisters.

I finished putting all the screws into the door side hinges.









I elevated the door 1.5", then put a 1/8" board under the hinge side jamb to offset for the depth of the hinges. This put me right at about level so I could screw the hings right to the jamb to ensure they fit.










Like the door, I used a 3/4" board to space the distance from the face of the jamb to the pin side of the hinge. Same thing I did on the door.










I used an Irwin Door Lock Installation Kit that I bought probably eight months ago with the door to drill out all the holes for the handles.

Normally, you'd probably set the depth into the door at 2 3/4", but because I'm planning on moulding right on the door, I thought the 2 3/8" would look better.






























So now the not so good news.

My first attempt at hanging the door jamb was a little crooked. So I realized I needed a bigger level. That'll be tonights next purchase. But I was still able to get the door on the hinges. That was a heavy door. I used three screws on the jamb...good tip from Dwight. 

After mounting the door, I saw a fairly sizable gap on the latch side. Turns out it was 3/16". Which doesn't sound like much but it looked big. Turns out my hinges only have a 1/16" gap. So that extra 1/16" ended up on the latch side plus the 1/8" I initally planned for.

So I think the easiest think is to just take it all down and shave off a 1/16" on the header. That will leave me with an 1/8" gap on the right and still only a 1/16" on the hinge side. But I think I'd rather have it be a little to big than too small.




















Another thing. I initally had them leave the drywall extend past the rough opening all around for sound proofing. But in hindsight, I have to shave it off in order to shim on both sides anyways.


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## mcascio

I finally had some time on Sunday to get the jamb and door installed and completed.

I ended up using a 1x2 board on the hinge side screwed into the wall as my leveled straight edge. The one side of the hinge screws actually went into the 1x2 as well.

I also screwed some other temporary board guides into the wall that surrounded the door jamb so I wouldn't have to keep breaking out the level.

I used all 3" screws on the first jamb after shimming. Then ran a bead of soundproofing sealant along the joint that meets the other jamb.










I shimmed the two jambs on the latch side as if it were one unit.









I used 3" screws on the Door jamb side since it was going to be covered with trim. I used 16 gauge finish nails on the extension jamb.










The rabbet joint allowed me room to play to get the extension jamb flush with the foyer side wall.









I was happy with the gaps all the way around the door.









I ran another bead of soundproofing sealant inside the grove and then used a putty knife to scrape off the extra.


















I'm glad to be done with this phase. Now I can finish up the lower MDF and trim that leads into the door jamb.

I took some spare 1/2" pad and the carpet sample. When the door swings out against the wall...it just barely touches the carpet. I had to add a very small scrap piece to the lower hinge in order to clear the carpet. I think if I just sand the bottom of the door, it will work out good without me need to cut off anything. It looks like my cement raises up about 3' out from the jamb. I'm glad I planned for 3/8" gap under the door. Any smaller and I'd need to cut the door down.

If I had to do it over again, I would have probably spaced the top hinge down 6" from the top and the bottom hinge 10" from the base of the door per the hinge instructions. Given the weight of the door, it might have made more sense. I matched my other foyer door which was 7" down and 11" up.


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## Prof.

Very nicely done Mario! :clap: With a solid timber door, that would have been an awful lot of heavy work! :whew:


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## Owen Bartley

NOW I see what you were doing there! I admit I was totally confused about the 2 jambs and their connection, but now that I can see it in place, and with the acoustic sealant, it makes sense. Great work.

I remember my father telling me once that when they were adding a 2nd storey to the house (30-some years ago) that he could easily spend an afternoon to hang a door properly, but one of the pros who did it for a living could bang it up all straight and true before you knew it. In conclusion, doors are hard. And yours looks great.


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## mcascio

Thanks guys.

That door is heavy! I'm just really glad I didn't opt to add even more MDF to it. After putting it on/off the hinges a dozen times it got heavier and heavier.

The goal of the double jamb was to keep the two walls decoupled from each other as much as possible. While there was some coupling, I think it was still better than a single jamb. I can push on the seam and see the sealant move so I know there is still some decoupling going on.


----------



## mcascio

I finished adding the MDF to the lower wall leading up to the door jamb. And then continued putting the base, chair rail and moulding up.










I have one last fabric frame to build that surrounds the door jamb. If I want it to be seamless, I'm going to have to make a frame that is shaped around the jamb.


----------



## mcascio

I finished painting and installing the trim for the patch panel fabric frame. I did the frame to hide the inside corners where I couldn't figure out how to get a sharp seam. In the end I think it will add nicely to the surround of the cabinet door that I need to build yet.


----------



## Prof.

That finishes it off nicely..:T
What did you use for the trim angle? Is that metal or wood?


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> That finishes it off nicely..:T
> What did you use for the trim angle? Is that metal or wood?


Thanks Prof, it's a 3/4" pine outside corner moulding.


----------



## mcascio

I worked until about 2:30am last night and finished up the door for the patch panel.

It's constructed like the other doors I did on the front screen wall.




















I changed my game plan for the door wall. I wanted to be able to get all the moulding and door casing up so they could be primed and painted before fabric. So rather than doing a single frame to wrap around the door and entire door wall and having to deal with inside corners, I'll break it into three sections. This will leave me with two vertical 2" seams just above the door in line with the casing. Since I'll be wrapping boards I can get the seam to be pretty sharp when they meet up. Plus it'll be near the ceiling in a darker area so I don't think anyone will even notice it.

With that said, I was able to install the rest of the room chair rail, base board and door casing inside the theater.


----------



## mcascio

I started working on some ideas for the back bar over the weekend.

So far this is my favorite design. I just don't want it to look too meaty as you walk in the room. I tried some wrought iron designs, but didn't like them. So I went more with similar panels and mouldings that are alredy in the room.

So to add some airiness to the design, I raised the center area between the supports off the ground.

The top counter is 16" deep x about 8' wide. The counter sits at 3' high. The bar arch will match the other arches in the room and the back of the seating. 

I'm open to any suggestions or comments before I commit to building it. I would think structurally, the two side pillars will support the counter even though the center is not fixed to the ground.


----------



## mcascio

This top view will help show how it fit's in the room.

There's about 2'2" of walking space between the bar counter and the back columns.


----------



## ALMFamily

Really like the design - it fits perfectly with the rest of the room. As far as the center being raised, I think you should have no problems supporting it.

The only concern I would have is the walking clearance if someone is sitting at the counter - you probably already worked that out, but I could not tell how much space there was in the schematic.

You probably already have planned for this, but I would make sure to put at least one electrical outlet on the counter as it will potentially be used as a snack counter if you entertain so you can put your crock pot, etc there. Also, I would include a network connection point as well as a connection point for a gaming system (composite video or the like).


----------



## Prof.

I think that looks fine..and should blend in well with the rest of the design..:T


----------



## mcascio

Thanks for the feedback guys. 

I've been mulling this back bar over and I'm thinking of just tossing out the back bar altogether.
I'd rather not crowd the space with something that barely gets used and on top of that doesn't look polished or even functional. As mentioned, the bar just outside the theater that seats nine comfortably can act as my overflow area. By removing the bar, this also gives me the flexibility to move the back row seating further back. Giving more leg room. This also opens the back up for walking to your seats. Overflow can still gather in the back or I can pull in the bar stools. One more plus, I just saved myself a week's worth of work and 10 trips to the big box stores. 

If I come up with a design I like I may change my mind. Maybe at some point I could build more of a sofa table that's only 5' wide.


----------



## mcascio

I started knocking out the moulding frames for the lower part of all the columns. I could have just attached these individually to the columns after painting the columns and stapling the fabric...but I thought it would be much easier to have them prebuilt and painted. Then I can just brad nail the entire frame to the column and touch up the holes.

I used this frame jig from Menards. I just glued the corners and let sit for an hour. Then shot a 1 1/4" 18 gauge brad nail through the corners to lock both pieces together.

I have to build eight of these.


----------



## ALMFamily

Now that looks like a super handy tool - how big of a frame can it manage?


----------



## mcascio

ALMFamily said:


> Now that looks like a super handy tool - how big of a frame can it manage?


It looks like it can handle up to 26" x 30" frames.


----------



## Owen Bartley

ALMFamily said:


> You probably already have planned for this, but I would make sure to put at least one electrical outlet on the counter as it will potentially be used as a snack counter if you entertain so you can put your crock pot, etc there. Also, I would include a network connection point as well as a connection point for a gaming system (composite video or the like).


It would also be a good spot to park with a laptop if someone wanted to surf with casual watching, or to run REW or similar software. Looking great, Mario, I like the raised part of the bar.

...And I just noticed that since I originally opened this page, there were multiple replies and the bar is likely out. Still not a bad idea to have a comm panel somewhere to plug in I guess? Also, that frame jig looks awesome.


----------



## ALMFamily

mcascio said:


> It looks like it can handle up to 26" x 30" frames.


Looks like I have another trip to Menard's coming up..... :bigsmile:


----------



## mcascio

Owen Bartley said:


> It would also be a good spot to park with a laptop if someone wanted to surf with casual watching, or to run REW or similar software. Looking great, Mario, I like the raised part of the bar.
> 
> ...And I just noticed that since I originally opened this page, there were multiple replies and the bar is likely out. Still not a bad idea to have a comm panel somewhere to plug in I guess? Also, that frame jig looks awesome.


Unfortunately there would be no way to run power or data to the bar unless I opted to break up the concrete again. I do have power/data under the back row seating though...so I'd just have to tap into that.

I'm probably going to finish up some more things in the room and then give it a good cleaning. Move in the chairs and see how the space feels before I completely abandon the bar idea. I like the idea of the back bar, but I'm not sure it visually works in the limited space I have.


----------



## PTAaron

The bar looks great. I would make the suggestion that if you are planning to use standard bar height stools, you may want to look into making the bar closer to 42" height.


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> I started knocking out the moulding frames for the lower part of all the columns. I could have just attached these individually to the columns after painting the columns and stapling the fabric...but I thought it would be much easier to have them prebuilt and painted. Then I can just brad nail the entire frame to the column and touch up the holes.
> 
> I used this frame jig from Menards. I just glued the corners and let sit for an hour. Then shot a 1 1/4" 18 gauge brad nail through the corners to lock both pieces together.
> 
> I have to build eight of these.


What a nifty tool! I could have done with one of those when I made up my 12 frames for the acoustic panels!
I've never seen a clamping system like that down here though..


----------



## ALMFamily

Want me to buy you one and ship it?!


----------



## Prof.

Now that's an offer I would have taken up a few months ago!! :laugh:


----------



## Prof.

I've just done a quick search on Google..and would you believe it..we do have a similar device here! 
Perhaps I should have done that search earlier!! :gah: :laugh:
http://www.timbecon.com.au/details/framer-s-clamp-8490.aspx


----------



## phillihp23

Dang...that would have been handy when making the 18 moulding frames for my panels....nifty tool!


----------



## Owen Bartley

Prof. (and Phil), I guess its too late for you now, but I was inspired to look around a bit and these framer's clamps actually look fairly simple to DIY. I might try one out and see if it actually lines up correctly (even if it won't be as pretty as Mario's).

http://sawdustmaking.com/Picture Frame Clamp copy/picture_frame_clamp.htm 

http://www.ehow.com/how_7842796_diy-picture-frame-clamp.html 

etc., etc.


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> I've just done a quick search on Google..and would you believe it..we do have a similar device here!
> Perhaps I should have done that search earlier!! :gah: :laugh:
> http://www.timbecon.com.au/details/framer-s-clamp-8490.aspx


That one looks really nice.


----------



## mcascio

I finished constructing all the frames for the lower columns. I dry fitted them in all the columns for now. Once the columns and frames are painted, I'll staple the GOM fabric to the column itself, then brad nail the frames to the column.










I'm getting close to installing the fabric on the light tray, but wanted to finalize my plans for trimming it out.

Here's my current game plan. I need to add a little height to the crown to hide the can light enclosures in the tray. I'm not sure I'm sold on this, but I haven't come up with anything better.


----------



## ALMFamily

One suggestion - take a look at Prof's recent thread on rebuilding his soffits. He had an issue with how the rope lighting looked on the ceiling and made a small change - it really made some crisp light lines.


----------



## Prof.

Owen Bartley said:


> Prof. (and Phil), I guess its too late for you now, but I was inspired to look around a bit and these framer's clamps actually look fairly simple to DIY. I might try one out and see if it actually lines up correctly (even if it won't be as pretty as Mario's).
> 
> http://sawdustmaking.com/Picture Frame Clamp copy/picture_frame_clamp.htm
> 
> http://www.ehow.com/how_7842796_diy-picture-frame-clamp.html
> 
> etc., etc.


Good luck with that OJ..I'll be interested to hear how it turns out..


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> I finished constructing all the frames for the lower columns. I dry fitted them in all the columns for now. Once the columns and frames are painted, I'll staple the GOM fabric to the column itself, then brad nail the frames to the column.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm getting close to installing the fabric on the light tray, but wanted to finalize my plans for trimming it out.
> 
> Here's my current game plan. I need to add a little height to the crown to hide the can light enclosures in the tray. I'm not sure I'm sold on this, but I haven't come up with anything better.


Mario,

Are you saying you can see the tops of the can lights above the face of the trays and you need to increase the height of the faces?..Or is it that you're concerned about the height of the crown moulding on the face of the trays?


----------



## mcascio

Hi Prof.

I have to raise the crown moulding higher vertically to hide the 5.5" enclosed can lighting box. that's up in the tray. I went for fully enclosed to prevent any light from spreading upwards.


----------



## mcascio

So a major set back the other night. I finally pulled the D-Box actuators out of storage. I wanted to take some height measurements with the platform on so I could match it to the surrounding fixed area. 

After making all the connections, one of the actuators is giving me an error and I noticed some hydraulic oil leaking near the actuator that elevates.

This was a major disappointment after waiting so long to integrate this into the theater.

I've got an email into D-box, but something tells me the leaking oil is not a good thing.


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> Hi Prof.
> 
> I have to raise the crown moulding higher vertically to hide the 5.5" enclosed can lighting box. that's up in the tray. I went for fully enclosed to prevent any light from spreading upwards.


OK..that's not a problem..
Just bare in mind that the rope lighting needs to be positioned approx. 5" below the ceiling, to get a bright and evenly defined line of illumination on the ceiling..


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> OK..that's not a problem..
> Just bare in mind that the rope lighting needs to be positioned approx. 5" below the ceiling, to get a bright and evenly defined line of illumination on the ceiling..


Good to know. It looks like I'll have 7.25" from the very top of the crown to the ceiling.


----------



## mcascio

I still have to strategize placement of the LED rope light and the black lights for the star mural.


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> Good to know. It looks like I'll have 7.25" from the very top of the crown to the ceiling.


Even that's a bit far down..Are you able to raise the moulding any higher?


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Even that's a bit far down..Are you able to raise the moulding any higher?


I could, but I'll need that height for the black lights to energize the stars near the middle of the room. I may have to strike a balance.


----------



## mcascio

I finished test mounting the frame that will sit behind the actual screen and frame. This will be taken down and then wrapped with either Protostar Hi-tack flocked light trap material or triple plush black velvet.










I started working on the top D-Box platform. I'll be adding two layers of 3/4" birch plywood. There will be two access panels hidden beneath the carpet and built into the platform. I'll be using some handles from Parts-Express that I'll install in each panel to make it easier to remove since it will be a tight fit. I've created a ledge on the lower 3/4" board so the panel can't fall through and I'll have something to screw them down. The carpet will be seamed and velcroed to the platform for easy access. The challenge I face is trying to screw the deck down to the aluminum platform and hitting the grooved channel with the screws. 

First layer cut. The platform is bigger than 8' so I'll have to seam them together.





























I also did a small test moulding section for the soffit. I don't have the larger crown yet so I tested with some shorter crown left overs. I'm thinking of adding a 3/4" outside corner to help separate the ceiling from the soffit. I think it'll also help define the soffit.


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> I'm thinking of adding a 3/4" outside corner to help separate the ceiling from the soffit. I think it'll also help define the soffit.


Do you mean that small piece between the soffit and the wall!?


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Do you mean that small piece between the soffit and the wall!?


Yeah. It would separate the ceiling and the soffit. That base moulding would have to be shortened by a quarter inch.

Although, I found some other moulding that will look identicaly but it's flat. It's just 3/4" x 1/4" and rounded on both ends.


----------



## mcascio

Here's a sample render with the extra outside corner moulding added. (I've lightened the image quite a bit to help showcase the mouldings) Hard to tell though if you don't know what to look for. But I think it'll make a huge difference. Especially from when you walk in the room. There are no reveal lines below the ceiling...everything goes up from the drywall. This drops it down into the room and creates a nice border and separates the flat drywall from the satin moulding.


----------



## Dotball

YMMV but I'd consider using quad instead of the half round.

I think I just gave some really bad advice. I think I can see now that it's not a corner but a "flat edge" so the quad won't work.

Sorry for any confusion.

Cheers,


----------



## mcascio

Dotball said:


> YMMV but I'd consider using quad instead of the half round.
> 
> Cheers,


Forgive me...but what do you mean by "quad"?


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> Here's a sample render with the extra outside corner moulding added. (I've lightened the image quite a bit to help showcase the mouldings) Hard to tell though if you don't know what to look for. But I think it'll make a huge difference. Especially from when you walk in the room. There are no reveal lines below the ceiling...everything goes up from the drywall. This drops it down into the room and creates a nice border and separates the flat drywall from the satin moulding.


Sorry Mario but I'm not sure which moulding you're referring to..
The above render looks totally different from this photo..

http://www.cinemarsolutions.com/cinemartheater/images/IMG_9009_small.jpg

Either way..adding appropriate mouldings can only enhance the overall effect..

Quad moulding is quarter round..


----------



## Dotball

Thanks Prof,

Saved me from answering.

Mario, as Prof said imagine a round piece and cut in half to get "half round" then cut in half again to get quarter round or "quad".

Half round is used on flat section to flat section and quad is used at 90° intersections.

As I said, when I first looked at the photo it looked like a corner joint but when I saw the render I realised it was flat to flat hence the withdrawal of my comment.

Cheers,


----------



## mcascio

Here's what I think I'm going to run with at the moment for the tray.

I may run with this flat stock piece instead of the outside corner moulding as shown in this illustration on the left side. It ends up accomplishing the same thing and allows me to use a stock piece of door stop to the right of it rather than having to rip down base board.










I probably don't even need to add an 1/8" round over on the bottom right side moulding. Once it's black, it's really hard to tell especially when the lights are on and you are looking up.

You can see the defined line in the rendering created by adding just the small bit of moulding.


----------



## mcascio

I continued my construction of the D-Box platform at the moment athough it was difficult given my recent experience with them...I'll explain later.

Here are some of the details of my build with the two access doors to the actuators.










I stapled roofing felt to the top of the bottom layers to prevent any squeaking.


















I stacked and aligned the layers together then screwed them together.









Access Panel Opening









I fit the bottom into the opening. This was the piece that I originally cut out. Then applied liquid nails to the top.










Then put the top piece into the opening and shot some brad nails from underneath to lock the pieces in place. Then flipped it over and started screwing them together making sure not to encroach in the area where the handles will be.









Then I measured and used a jig saw to cut the handle opening.









Handle installed









Finally, I had to mark all the center lines of the aluminum platform on the top side of the deck. The screws need to go through the middle slotted area of the aluminum extrusions. Hopefully my marks are pretty close, but there's not much room for error. After that, I started screwing the two layers together.


----------



## mcascio

So as I posted about a week ago, one of my actuators was not working. I was shocked to find out that D-Box wants a $1,000 plus shipping to Canada to repair the actuator. 

I wasn't aware that them just sitting on the shelf could do any damage to them. 

I unfortunately wasn't able to put the actuators through their paces when I bought the system so the warranty period had expired.

I'm not an expert, but it would seem like the leaking fluid would mean some type of rubber gasket or a seal has dried up over time and could be a couple dollars in parts. 

While I realize the system itself is expensive, so are cars with a lot more moving parts, and I've been fortunate to not have any mechanical repairs costing a $1,000. [knock on wood]

Given they are the only place that can repair them that I'm aware of, it seems like they've got you cornered and are taking advantage of it's customers. Is anyone aware of any other options?

My biggest concern is getting the one repaired and then another one fails after it actually gets some use.

I thought D-Box would be a little bit more willing to work with me given that I haven't even been able to watch a full movie with the system.


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> Here's what I think I'm going to run with at the moment for the tray.
> 
> I may run with this flat stock piece instead of the outside corner moulding as shown in this illustration on the left side. It ends up accomplishing the same thing and allows me to use a stock piece of door stop to the right of it rather than having to rip down base board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I probably don't even need to add an 1/8" round over on the bottom right side moulding. Once it's black, it's really hard to tell especially when the lights are on and you are looking up.
> 
> You can see the defined line in the rendering created by adding just the small bit of moulding.


Now I see what you're saying!..I think that will look fine :T..And as you say, you probably won't even notice it when it's all painted black..


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> So as I posted about a week ago, one of my actuators was not working. I was shocked to find out that D-Box wants a $1,000 plus shipping to Canada to repair the actuator.
> 
> I wasn't aware that them just sitting on the shelf could do any damage to them.
> 
> I unfortunately wasn't able to put the actuators through their paces when I bought the system so the warranty period had expired.
> 
> I'm not an expert, but it would seem like the leaking fluid would mean some type of rubber gasket or a seal has dried up over time and could be a couple dollars in parts.
> 
> While I realize the system itself is expensive, so are cars with a lot more moving parts, and I've been fortunate to not have any mechanical repairs costing a $1,000. [knock on wood]
> 
> Given they are the only place that can repair them that I'm aware of, it seems like they've got you cornered and are taking advantage of it's customers. Is anyone aware of any other options?
> 
> My biggest concern is getting the one repaired and then another one fails after it actually gets some use.
> 
> I thought D-Box would be a little bit more willing to work with me given that I haven't even been able to watch a full movie with the system.


That's very disappointing to hear Mario and a very bad deal from D-Box! They obviously don't stand behind their product..:thumbsdown:

I would suggest that you take the unit to a Hydraulic Repairer in your area..and see if they can do the repairs..It is after all just a hydraulic cylinder and should be able to be repaired by anyone in that field...


----------



## HTip

Prof. said:


> That's very disappointing to hear Mario and a very bad deal from D-Box! They obviously don't stand behind their product..:thumbsdown:
> 
> I would suggest that you take the unit to a Hydraulic Repairer in your area..and see if they can do the repairs..It is after all just a hydraulic cylinder and should be able to be repaired by anyone in that field...


I agree. Such an expensive piece of equipment should last a lot longer and certainly not wear while sitting on a shelf. I would file an official complaint with the management of D-Box. Also maybe accidently dropping a line in between that bad press is not good for business


----------



## mcascio

Thanks guys for all the reponses. 

I sent D-Box an email last week asking them for instructions from the tech on how to repair the unit myself as well as seeing if I could elevate my situation to someone else there. That was last week Tuesday and I haven't heard back yet. I resent the email yesterday so hopefully I'll get a response.

I bought the system as a DEMO back in 2007 but if I'm not mistaken it was inspected by D-Box and given another year warranty. The actuator is actually their Odyssey XL line and designed for platform use. So different than the ebay auction. It may have actually been a DEMO system that D-Box lent out to a high-end store.










I wasn't looking for free service on the unit, but I thought the $1,000 repair fee was a hefty charge and plus given my situation of not having it officially installed in the theater, that it might have some weight. I've only found 2 or 3 people with issues on the forums. 2 of 3 had theirs repaired for free due to manufacturer assembly or something. I've sent the information to D-Box in hopes that they can honor the same for me...but like I said, I never heard back.


----------



## mcascio

In more exciting news.

The carpet is ordered. They are going to double-glue it down because of all the oak it ends up butting up to.

I also started putting the fabric up on the soffit. If you recall, I went through a couple different ideas of trying to get a seamless 45 edge in the corners. I ended up cutting a slot at a 45 in each corner so I could push the fabric up into the soffit and staple it above. So far it's worked as I expected although it takes a bit of time. I'm just hoping I can squeeze the second set of fabric through the same hole.


I'm dealing with 13' pieces of fabric. So to cut it easier, I just folded it in half. My roller "pizza" knife cut right through both pieces without a problem. I start pushing the fabric up through one end and stapling them down. Then draped it to the other end held up with a clamp.









Here you can see the corner seam - sorry it's dark. I lost a few lights during this phase:









I initially cut pie pieces in the fabric where the can lights went...but my holes were too tight with the fabric. So I had to trim the edges. I tried to staple as close to the edge as possible. There's not a lot of play with the can lights rim.


----------



## Prof.

The slot idea made a very neat job of it..:T I can just imagine how difficult it would be to put up fabric like that!..Very fiddly!..


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> The slot idea made a very neat job of it..:T I can just imagine how difficult it would be to put up fabric like that!..Very fiddly!..


You're right about that. I remember looking up just before I started hanging the fabric and thinking...man this isn't going to be fun. 

You've really got to be patient.


----------



## ALMFamily

mcascio said:


> You're right about that. I remember looking up just before I started hanging the fabric and thinking...man this isn't going to be fun.
> 
> You've really got to be patient.


Given I am about to embark on the same thing, I really wish I would not have read that last post... :bigsmile:

That looks great - looks like another stolen Mario idea is in the works!


----------



## mcascio

ALMFamily said:


> Given I am about to embark on the same thing, I really wish I would not have read that last post... :bigsmile:
> 
> That looks great - looks like another stolen Mario idea is in the works!


I thought about running color changable LED's under the soffit since it would have been easy to poke them through and have them run in a nice straight channel in the moulding. But I opted not to because of the added workload and pushing the project completion further off. Something you might want to consider though. I think it would look pretty cool.


----------



## mcascio

Finally finished up the soffit fabric. That was abit painful. I took all the light fixtures down and cleaned them up to get rid of the dust.

One tip I can pass on when installing fabric of this length and without an edge to wrap around is to staple about foot at a time. Staple on one edge pulling length-wise. Then staple the other side pulling width-wise. Initially I was just pulling length-wise when stapling both sides and later noticed the material was sagging in the middle a bit. I was able to stretch and add more staples to clean it up...but better to do it right the first time.










The corners ended up turning out really nice so I won't have to add any fabric covered boards to hide staples which was my initial goal.

Next step is to pick up all the soffit moulding, rip down, then prime and paint so I can hang that. That should just about wrap up all cutting in the room and the priming begins.

I've got a bit more sanding to do and then the final clean up.


----------



## Prof.

Nicely done Mario..:T


----------



## mcascio

I cleaned up the scrap wood out of the theater room this past weekend.

I also picked up some 14' length base boards and ripped them down to size for trimming out the light tray. I also picked up a slightly different moulding instead of the outside corner to separate the drywall ceiling from the light tray. I think it adds a little more flare.

I primed, lightly sanded, then painted the first coat.

I still need to rip down the mouldings for the inside edge of the light tray. I'll do that after I finish the 2nd coat and hang these mouldings to make more room.


----------



## phillihp23

when installing LED lights above the screen....how far from the back wall should they be to cast down on the screen. I would be using 4" cans. I have a tricky job as my ceiling is sloped. I will use sloped cans and the light will have to travel approximately 2' 6" before it begins to hit the screen. Ceiling highest point 10'. Screen top will be just below the 8' mark on the wall. Any help would be great. To further the issue I was gonna install 3 lights over the 97" wide screen. Do to the ceiling I will need to install 4 lights.


----------



## mcascio

phillihp23 said:


> when installing LED lights above the screen....how far from the back wall should they be to cast down on the screen. I would be using 4" cans. I have a tricky job as my ceiling is sloped. I will use sloped cans and the light will have to travel approximately 2' 6" before it begins to hit the screen. Ceiling highest point 10'. Screen top will be just below the 8' mark on the wall. Any help would be great. To further the issue I was gonna install 3 lights over the 97" wide screen. Do to the ceiling I will need to install 4 lights.


I can't answer your questions yet since I haven't officially finished that step.

In my case, my cans are right near the top of the screen and only 9" from the screen and I'm hoping I get the desired spot light (showtime) feel as I've shown in my 3D renders.

I think with 2'6" from the screen you'll be pushing towards the wider part's of the bulbs so you may get more of a fill. But switching to spots may solve that.

You might consider, if possible, five lights instead of four. It's like planting trees and flowers, always try to group in odd numbers. It just has a more natural appearance to the eye. If you can't - no biggie though. Personal preference.


----------



## mcascio

Here's the final light tray moulding design that I'm going with.











I put on a second coat of paint on all the mouldings the other day. Then started installing it.

Given the pieces were all greater than 12' and my arm span is no where near that I created a couple extra hands. I wrapped some 1x2's with spare GOM fabric so I wouldn't damage the moulding. Then clamped it to the soffit to create a channel to slide the moulding into for dry fitting and nailing.


















Here's a photo of just the base trim installed.









Finished photo's with both the base and wainstcoting cap installed.


----------



## Prof.

That trim finishes it off nicely..:T


----------



## ALMFamily

Nice work Mario!


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> That trim finishes it off nicely..:T


Thanks Prof!!!


----------



## mcascio

ALMFamily said:


> Nice work Mario!


Thanks as always.


----------



## mcascio

Made a big push on Friday night to get the base boards ripped down to size, primed and 2 coats of paint so I could install them on Saturday.










I built six L shaped supports and wrapped them with fabric to hold up the long pieces around the room. I left them extra long so I could cut and fit each end and then slide the board and move to the other corner and find my cut dimensions there. Then I'd make my final cut to size. I ended up ripping one board an 1/8" shorter to get the can lights to line up in the center. This forced me to miter a 2.5" board with a 2.625" board. Fortunately I just went to my 3D model and was able to calculate the two angles for each cut and it ended up working out perfect and unnoticable to anyone.

I started by putting on the under side first.




































And then finally installed the 4 vertical baseboards. This was a bit of a challenge by myself and trying to get a quarter inch reveal and finish cut each corner. I ended up dinging the ceiling once. 














































I think I figured I have almost 200 feet of baseboard in the light tray soffit alone. 

I've got a few odds and ends in the room to finish up before final cleanup. But I think I may have officially cut the last board in the room. I'm going to wait to install the crown once I have a chance to get speakers in the room and test for any rattles that may exist up in the soffit. It'll be easier to reach up there without the crown in my way.


----------



## mcascio

Here's some pics of the room prior to priming and all cleaned up.

I also finsihed installing an outlet behind the stage for the subwoofer(s).


----------



## mcascio

My father-in-law did most of the priming - I tried to help but he paints 4x faster than me. I finished sanding half of the room last night. I used grade 2 steel wool on all the moulding and a medium/fine sanding sponge on the flat surfaces.

It makes everything look like plastic.


----------



## Prof.

Wow!..That's some nice progress in a short space of time! :T
With everything out of the room, it looks HUGE!!


----------



## Dotball

That looks seriously impressive. One word comes to mind

WOW!

BTW what was the final outcome of the blown actuator for the moving floor?

Cheers,


----------



## mcascio

Dotball said:


> That looks seriously impressive. One word comes to mind
> 
> WOW!
> 
> BTW what was the final outcome of the blown actuator for the moving floor?
> 
> Cheers,


Thanks Dotball.

I ended up sending in the defective unit. They offered me a second lower price of $600 plus shipping if only certain parts needed to be replaced. They won't know though until they open it up.

I really didn't have a lot of options since they are the only repair shop and I really don't need the most expensive paper weight in the world.

It costs me $40 to ship the unit to them, but I prepaid them $158 to ship it back. I'm still trying to figure out why the big difference. I'm not a big fan of tripling shipping charges for handling.


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Wow!..That's some nice progress in a short space of time! :T
> With everything out of the room, it looks HUGE!!


Thanks. I missed posting after the cleanup on the weekend so just catching up.

The room did open up quite a bit.


----------



## mcascio

Here are some pictures from yesterday after my father-in-law primed the front stage area. He also oil primed the Oak stage, steps and bull nose.

I still need to roll behind the cabinets just to seal up the MDF.

I started puttying the nail holes and did some more sanding. The oil paint he applied to the OAK areas is still not quite dry so I have limited mobility in the room. Hopefully it'll dry up by tomorrow.


----------



## mcascio

My father-in-law was anxious this morning to see how well the BM paint worked and I wasn't about to stop him. He had to switch brushes to a softer one to prevent it from digging in and creating lines. He didn't feel it needed thinning once he had the right brush.

He's going to perform a scratch test tomorrow to see how well it adhered.

But I think it looks great and the Egg Shell has created the perfect amount of sheen.


----------



## Prof.

That's looking very nice..Your father-in-law is obviously a very skilled painter!


----------



## PTAaron

Looking amazing! I can't wait to see the finished product.


----------



## friggy

Wow, awesome work. 
Can'y wait to see the rest.


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## mcascio

Thanks guys.


----------



## mcascio

I finished puttying last night.

Glad to be done with that phase.

The oil primer on the Oak areas was still not completely dry.

My FIL was over early painting some more areas that were ready for him.


----------



## Prof.

How nice to have a FIL that enthusiastically does all the painting for you!
He's doing an excellent job..:T


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> How nice to have a FIL that enthusiastically does all the painting for you!
> He's doing an excellent job..:T


Yeah. He makes it look effortless.


----------



## mcascio

I finished priming the insides of the front wall cabinet floor and top. I know you won't see it, but I figured I've come this far.

I also put one coat of paint on the back sides and edges of the cabinet doors. I'll sand and then put another coat on today and then let my FIL do the fronts.


----------



## phillihp23

Like a pro....whats admission when its finished? :whistling:


----------



## Owen Bartley

Wow Mario, I haven't been around for a while, but you've made some serious progress. Sorry to hear about the hydraulic issues, but the theatre looks fantastic. The 45's in the soffit where the fabric panels meet look absolutely perfect. I'm consistently blown away by the level of both detail and precision in your project.


----------



## mcascio

phillihp23 said:


> Like a pro....whats admission when its finished? :whistling:


Miller Lite always has a place in my heart.


----------



## mcascio

Owen Bartley said:


> Wow Mario, I haven't been around for a while, but you've made some serious progress. Sorry to hear about the hydraulic issues, but the theatre looks fantastic. The 45's in the soffit where the fabric panels meet look absolutely perfect. I'm consistently blown away by the level of both detail and precision in your project.


Thanks. I can almost taste the popcorn from the first movie!


----------



## mcascio

I made a little progress last night.

I rolled black paint onto the flooring of the front cabinetry wall and put a coat of paint where all the hinges are going and the dividers between the cabinets.











Here's all the cabinet doors sanded after the first coat.


----------



## HTip

I haven't been following your progress lately, but I'm seriously impressed with your skills and how the room looks already. Indeed you make it all look so easy...


----------



## ALMFamily

HTip said:


> I haven't been following your progress lately, but I'm seriously impressed with your skills and how the room looks already. Indeed you make it all look so easy...


+1 - I am amazed by the progress you have been able to make in the summer - I have gotten bogged downn with baseball games, outside projects and camping! So glad I am following along - good to see someone progressing well!


----------



## mcascio

HTip said:


> I haven't been following your progress lately, but I'm seriously impressed with your skills and how the room looks already. Indeed you make it all look so easy...


Thanks HTip.


----------



## mcascio

ALMFamily said:


> +1 - I am amazed by the progress you have been able to make in the summer - I have gotten bogged downn with baseball games, outside projects and camping! So glad I am following along - good to see someone progressing well!


It's really tough but I try to get in there every night while the family sleeps.


----------



## mcascio

The Seymour screen and masking panels arrived yesterday. It looks like they packed it really well.










My FIL finished giving the walls in the theater their first coat. He also gave one side of the door a first coat.



























I finished putting on the 2nd coat on the back side of all the cabinet doors and rehung them so it's easier for my FIL to put two coats on the front side.


----------



## Prof.

Mario..did you get the Center Stage XD material or the 4K material?


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Mario..did you get the Center Stage XD material or the 4K material?


The Center Stage XD material.


----------



## Prof.

:T Same as mine..I actually preferred the image on the XD over the 4K!


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> :T Same as mine..I actually preferred the image on the XD over the 4K!


That's great. It won't be long before I start assembling mine. Is that a two man job?


----------



## mcascio

My FIL got the first coat on the front cabinet faces as well as rolling the ceiling with the BM Flat Black.





























I removed the casing around the door to the theater foyer so I can staple up the GOM fabric. Then I'll put the casing back up. I also sanded all the oak areas so it'll be ready for a first coat.


----------



## phillihp23

Looking Good. Love it when it starts coming all together!


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> That's great. It won't be long before I start assembling mine. Is that a two man job?


it does make it easier if you have two assembling the screen..I did mine myself and it was a bit of a pain!


----------



## mcascio

I picked up some black shelving material from Menard's that should work well for adjustable speaker shelves. I bought an 8" black shelf board and ripped it down to 7". I still need to cut those to size to fit in the columns. I think I'll put some thin rubber pad on the shelf to keep the speaker from vibrating or moving.











I also started working on the theater foyer.
I primed the lower half of the wall with BIN primer and then will sand to hopefully get a smoother finish like the MDF. I built the moulding panels on the bench rather than on the wall like I did with the MDF. It's really nice being able to nail anywhere...especially in the corner joints. But the foyer just has drywall and studs. So after gluing the corners and clamping, I shot a finished nail through the corner and waited about 20 minutes for each corner to dry then moved on to the next one.












I went with one long moulding rather than two since it's such a small space and it certainly made it look much longer.










I challened myself to putting a finish coat on the Patch Panel door so I could install the fabric on the back. With the tips I picked up I think it turned out pretty good.
After it dried, I stapled using 3/8" deep staples all the way around pulling it firmly.










Then used the roller cutting and a straight edge to trim it off.





















I had to make another trip to Milwaukee to pick up/swap some warped lumber. It was slim pickings, but I think I have enough to finish the project.

I just need to make one another trip to Lowe's with the trailer to get the larger crown in 12' lengths.


----------



## mcascio

I need to rework my moulding on the door design due to the door handle being a lever and it will overlap my intial plan.

So I came up with these two layouts.

Which one do you prefer?

Design A - The lower panel matches the height of the rest of the room.










Design B - This design fills in the door better than the first but doesn't match heights.


----------



## Prof.

B for me!..It gives a break from all the horizontal mouldings and looks more appropriate for a door..


----------



## Dotball

My vote would be for "B" as well. It changes the focal point of the facade.

Cheers,


----------



## mcascio

Thanks for all the recommendations and opinions. 

I tweaked Design B to match the spacing similar to my theater foyer six panel door. 

So I'm leaning towards this variation of B. I think it helps make a 3' wide door look leaner too.

Design C


----------



## ALMFamily

Design C for me!


----------



## phillihp23

B for me!!


----------



## mcascio

My FIL gave the ceiling a 2nd coat of paint as well as the first coat of paint on all the OAK stairs and bullnose. It really takes the room to the next level.

Tonight I finished up painting the lower theater foyer wall.


----------



## Prof.

The painting is looking very nice Mario..:T

Just looking at all those corners, cut outs and protrusions!..I would hate to be the carpet layer!! :yikes: :rofl2:


----------



## ALMFamily

Prof. said:


> The painting is looking very nice Mario..:T
> 
> Just looking at all those corners, cut outs and protrusions!..I would hate to be the carpet layer!! :yikes: :rofl2:


+1 - looks great Mario! :T


----------



## Owen Bartley

Prof. said:


> The painting is looking very nice Mario..:T
> 
> Just looking at all those corners, cut outs and protrusions!..I would hate to be the carpet layer!! :yikes: :rofl2:


I was just thinking the same thing. First "carpet must be coming soon, it's going to look great!" ...then "oh wow, that carpet installer is going to have his work cut out for him." lol


----------



## mcascio

Hi Guys.

Fortunately for me, the carpet guy is really top notch. He not only did my basement carpet, but also all our tile work. He's very talented and also does wood working. He borrowed me some tools during the middle of the theater build for a month or two.

He's already seen the room and I have the utmost confidence. The price is more than I would have liked, but I was really sold on his work ethic.

When he was doing grout some dust from the theater build had made it's way into the black grout we had, so it looked more gray than black. He was willing to cutout all the grout lines and redo it. I didn't have the heart to make him do it, so we just stuck with the darkish gray. I spent about 10 hours trying to scrub it, but it was useless.


----------



## ALMFamily

Does he travel to the Madison area by chance?


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## mcascio

ALMFamily said:


> Does he travel to the Madison area by chance?


Seems a bit of a hike. But I can always give you his contact info if you'd like.


----------



## ALMFamily

Depending on what kind of price I get here, I may just take you up on that - thanks Mario!


----------



## mcascio

The 2nd coat of paint went on the front wall and one of the side walls. It turned out really nice. I think I'll try tackling the larger crown install in the soffit next before putting the fabric on the front cabinet doors.


----------



## untuned

Been following this build for some time now and I must say WOW! congratulations on your commitment thus far and you have a truly amazing vision. Your choice of colors and materials are spot on!

I think I can speak for just about anyone following your build that we are looking forward to seeing this HT in a magazine when it's done! it deserves it


----------



## mcascio

untuned said:


> Been following this build for some time now and I must say WOW! congratulations on your commitment thus far and you have a truly amazing vision. Your choice of colors and materials are spot on!
> 
> I think I can speak for just about anyone following your build that we are looking forward to seeing this HT in a magazine when it's done! it deserves it


Wow. You're too kind. I certainly appreciate the fuel to keep me going.


----------



## mcascio

Here's an image that documents all the paints, fabrics and carpet used in the build. I've posted this in the very first post of this thread as well for others to reference.


----------



## mcascio

I put a first coat on all the crown moulding. I really want to get that piece done this weekend so I can start introducing more and more fabric to the room and tackle the theater foyer. I'll be cutting outside the room this time, so I don't want to do any damage bringing in the large pieces.










I also stapled the fabric to the backs of one of the corner cabinet section of doors.









I had to take all the doors off again. I'll need to move the whole center cabinet section in order to install the light trap flocking material on the sides of the corner cabinets. Something tells me handling a 10" x 8' sticker is not going to be easy. 

I put some LED lighting in the soffit as well. I need to plan for that as well as the black lights so I'm trying to get a feel of what looks best.


----------



## ALMFamily

Looking great Mario - it is really taking shape! :T


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## Prof.

The lighting looks good Mario..Nice even spread..:T
Is that LED strip or rope lighting?


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> The lighting looks good Mario..Nice even spread..:T
> Is that LED strip or rope lighting?


Thanks. That was using color changing LED strip.


----------



## mcascio

Ok. After removing all the doors from the front cabinet I pulled it away so I could install the self adhesive light trap material on the sides of the corner cabinet facing in towards the screen. I didn't want to get light reflections that close to the screen.
http://www.protostar.biz/flock.htm

I cut them to size and marked which side was my straight edge. Then I worked from the floor up slowly removing the massive sticker. It went on easier than I anticipated and I did have some time to pull it off and fix it if a bubble was introduced.




















Then I went to work on stapling SyFabrics Triple Plush Black Velvet to the top of the front cabint. I started stapling the straight edge to the back and then worked on the underside of the front. I used 3/8" leg staples.









To cut the front side underneath the lip, I used my pizza roller cutter (forgot what they call it). This is a truly must have tool!



















Then it was on to stapling the the black velvet onto a frame I had already precut a while back that sits behind the Seymour screen. I used MDF.









After install...I still need to finish the bottom 12' piece.









IMPORTANT BLACK VELVET TIP!!!
When I went to install the wrapped panels I needed to step on the front cabinet that was already covered in velvet. I saw the dirt that my shoes had on them from all the construction so I took them off and got up on the cabinet. I noticed my foot prints were being left beind but didn't think anything of it. I thought I would just brush them out afterwards. Turns out that black velvet and perspiration don't mix. I tried cleaning up the foot prints and got most of them out after about an hour, but there were a couple spots that were just irrepairable. So it looks like I'll be putting on a 2nd layer of black velvet over the first. And when it's time to hang the screen, I'll be putting down some type of board to walk on. I've been fortunate not to have a lot of rework in this project and I think I may have enough extra black velvet to redo it so I guess I can't complain too much.


----------



## Prof.

That Protostar material looks like it would be an excellent material as an alternative for covering screen frames, with it's light absorbing qualities and adhesive backing!
Does it come in roll form and do you think it could be used in that manner?


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> That Protostar material looks like it would be an excellent material as an alternative for covering screen frames, with it's light absorbing qualities and adhesive backing!
> Does it come in roll form and do you think it could be used in that manner?


Yeah. It's supposedly darker than the triple plush velvet when light is cast on it; however, in a well lit room it looks lighter than the velvet.

I think you could use it in that scenario. It's a bit more expensive though than the velvet. I went back and forth on which to use on my panels behind the screen. I ended up going with the velvet. 

I think install wise, the velvet would be a little easier to install.

They come in 30" width rolls and at any length you desire. They do have some of it already on boards that might suit your needs to.


----------



## mcascio

Ok. Thought I'd take a break and post some pics tonight instead before I do a tool change over and switch to stapling fabric to cabinet doors. 

My FIL finished putting on the finish coat on the other side of the theater...so the finish coat is pretty much on everything in the theater. The theater foyer still has a few things left to do. He also gave the theater foyer door a 1st coat of black. I'm keeping one side white to match the bar area and the other side black to match the theater.

Here's the crown that went up tonight.

First I had to figure out how high the crown needed to be mounted in order to hide the can light enclosures. I figured that out using my 3D software and figuring a person about 6' tall. Then I cut angled blocks. I wanted them to be flush with the baseboard I already installed so it would be easier to install them around the room. I placed one in the center and then measured 52" from the center. This gives me just enough room to place a 48" black light plus the cord width in between each section. I may go a different route, but at least this option is open still.

Here are the angled supports.



















After installing the first crown.



























Time to start stapling again.


----------



## Prof.

The moulding looks good! :T


----------



## mcascio

I put a good dent in the theater yesterday. Worked from sun up until sun down.


I need a second wind the other night after hanging the first piece of crown. So I pulled in half of the red fabric panels into the room for some inspiration.

Here's a photo:









I think I'm going to try using velcro to hold the panels to the wall. Just stick the one side of the velcro to the wall and it should just grab the fabric.

I removed all the hinges and sprayed them with a flat black spray paint from Rustoleum. There was some primer marks on them. The spray paint gave them a new look again.

I also finished stapling all the fabric to the maple doors.


















I decided to try this theory on the lower moulding frames I built for the bottom half of the speaker columns too.


















The fabric tension is really tight so I was worried it may crush the frame, but so far so good. If the frame continues to hold up, I'll probably do this for them all, then use something to hold them in tightly to the column. I'm thinking something like puddy would keep it held in.










My friend stopped over and we finished hanging the remaining crown in about two hours. It went quicker than I thought. Only had to walk the crown out twice to recut out of the four pieces. The laser measure tool worked out nicely to get accurate results. Just make sure you measure before you hang your first crown all the way around the room. The benefit of not having a ceiling is that everything was able to be cut at 45's!

The LED lighting has a little sharper edge now with the crown. So I'll probably need to elevate the LED lighting to cast a bit higher above the top of the crown.









































































To wrap up the night I put some more coats of paint on all the mouldings I'll be needing for in the theater foyer.


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> I think I'm going to try using velcro to hold the panels to the wall. Just stick the one side of the velcro to the wall and it should just grab the fabric.


Good idea!..I found..(to my detriment)..that too much Velcro on panels like those, makes it almost impossible to remove them..That Velcro really hangs on!! 

WOW!..That is a sharp edge from the LED's!..Did you use 3528 or 5050 SMD LED strips?
The room is looking really great ..:T


----------



## mcascio

I'm not sure. I bought this kit a couple years ago:
http://www.barlighting.com/flexibleledstrip.html

It looks like they use 30 leds every meter.


----------



## ALMFamily

That looks like exactly what I was looking for - were you able to do completely around your soffits with one kit?


----------



## mcascio

I bought only 4 meters (12 ft) just for testing because it was really expensive. I've seen some similar models on Amazon that look to be the same for a 1/5 of what I paid through barlighting.com but I'm not positive they are the same. I really like the brightness of these and the glow, but I want to eliminate the sharp line and have it gradiate to the ceiling color so it looks more natural.

So I'll probably have to raise them up so they don't get blocked by the crown or black lights.

I'll need about 42 ft to make it all the way around.


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> I'm not sure. I bought this kit a couple years ago:
> http://www.barlighting.com/flexibleledstrip.html
> 
> It looks like they use 30 leds every meter.


They only call them SMD premium!..whatever that is..The SMD 5050 LED's are larger and brighter than the SMD3528 and each LED is almost the width of the strip..


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> They only call them SMD premium!..whatever that is..The SMD 5050 LED's are larger and brighter than the SMD3528 and each LED is almost the width of the strip..


I believe there are also some that have more lights per strip. That may allow me to reach the center of the room and get a glow throughout. 

Just wish you didn't have to buy to try.


----------



## mcascio

I'm looking to wrap up the theater foyer.

So before hanging the fabric on the drywall, I thought I'd mount my virutal movie poster.

It consists of a 40" LED TV mounted on it's side in the portrait position. I didn't want to damage the fabric by doing it later. I'll remove the mount when it comes time to put up the fabric and then just make small holes into the fabric for the bolts.

I'll eventually build a frame around it and maybe add some decorative moulding to match the columns.














































Using MainLobby, I plan to use the virutal movie poster to display a variety of things. Currently playing movie Poster and fan art, Movie in Progress graphic, how much time is left on the movie, movies coming soon based on release dates, last few movies played, total number of movies watched in this theater, etc. I may bring the posters to life and have them slowly panning in/out. It may be triggered on/off with motion or door sensors. Still haven't worked out all the details yet.


----------



## Rokkar

Hi Mario,

I just joined HTS. The color scheme in your theater could break all records. It has to be the best looking theater out there. You have inspired me to use similar colors and I couldn't be happier.

Please keep the pictures coming! Thanks for the help and inspiration.

Rokkar


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> I believe there are also some that have more lights per strip. That may allow me to reach the center of the room and get a glow throughout.
> 
> Just wish you didn't have to buy to try.


Yes, you can get 60 LED's /metre which will give a greater spread of light and a very even illumination..


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> I'm looking to wrap up the theater foyer.
> 
> So before hanging the fabric on the drywall, I thought I'd mount my virutal movie poster.
> 
> It consists of a 40" LED TV mounted on it's side in the portrait position. I didn't want to damage the fabric by doing it later. I'll remove the mount when it comes time to put up the fabric and then just make small holes into the fabric for the bolts.
> 
> I'll eventually build a frame around it and maybe add some decorative moulding to match the columns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using MainLobby, I plan to use the virutal movie poster to display a variety of things. Currently playing movie Poster and fan art, Movie in Progress graphic, how much time is left on the movie, movies coming soon based on release dates, last few movies played, total number of movies watched in this theater, etc. I may bring the posters to life and have them slowly panning in/out. It may be triggered on/off with motion or door sensors. Still haven't worked out all the details yet.


That's a very nifty idea Mario..using an LED TV for your display..Are you able to just get a white screen on the TV?


----------



## phillihp23

Details...details..do tell...What brand/model T.V. did you use? How are you displaying the photo's....usb...computer hardwire connection....computer wireless signal with built in tv software????

I am putting in an outlet outside the door of my theater to do the same thing. Any advice in the TV...photo feed arena would be great.


----------



## mcascio

Rokkar said:


> Hi Mario,
> 
> I just joined HTS. The color scheme in your theater could break all records. It has to be the best looking theater out there. You have inspired me to use similar colors and I couldn't be happier.
> 
> Please keep the pictures coming! Thanks for the help and inspiration.
> 
> Rokkar


Thanks Rokkar. With so many other great theaters out there and in this forum...I certainly appreciate your comments.

More pictures will follow soon.


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Yes, you can get 60 LED's /metre which will give a greater spread of light and a very even illumination..


THanks. Any personal recommendations?


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> That's a very nifty idea Mario..using an LED TV for your display..Are you able to just get a white screen on the TV?


I could display anything on the screen for the most part including a white screen. What did you have in mind for the white screen?


----------



## mcascio

phillihp23 said:


> Details...details..do tell...What brand/model T.V. did you use? How are you displaying the photo's....usb...computer hardwire connection....computer wireless signal with built in tv software????
> 
> I am putting in an outlet outside the door of my theater to do the same thing. Any advice in the TV...photo feed arena would be great.


I'm using this LED TV:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/TCL-40-Cl...Hz-HDTV-1.25-Ultra-Slim-LE40FHDP21TA/16115032

I ran cat5 wire behind the TV. I'm using a VGA balun that then connects to a Windows PC in my rack. That PC will be running MainLobby. Through the Cinemar automation system, when I select a movie, all the details about that movie are then pushed to the TV display so visitors see in real-time the actual movie that is playing at that moment including runtime. I distribute movies throughout the entire house (which is about 8 TV's now), so I'll only show movies that are playing in the theater zone.

Through MainLobby I can either select a movie on the touch screen in the bar area, from my phone, from an iPad or right from the big screen in the theater. Lots of options.

Here's a sample of the user interface for the big screen version:









Or from an iPad:









I'd be happy to walk you through in more details about setting up a similar system.


----------



## phillihp23

Further details would be great...Looks like a nice setup..

I looked at the webpage...it didnt list connection types... or a price for that matter...does it have a usb slot?

I plan on building a custom HTPC....I could easily run a PC hookup cord up through the ceiling to the monitor outside the door....would I be able to watch a movie in the theater room while displaying something differant on the T.V. Poster all feeding of the same PC??

Options in no particular order...
A.Using a Thumb drive loaded with movie poster images
B.Streaming Movie Poster images to a internet connected t.v. through ORB Server software
C. Hardwire a PC to the T.V. to display an image

I am not looking (have the $$) to put in a home automation system at this time...appears thats the software you are using.


----------



## phillihp23

Actually I was just looking at the Cinemar MainLobby webpage...It looks interesting and possibly not so expensive??? What do you think a basic setup would run and how complicated is it to setup?


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> THanks. Any personal recommendations?


I bought a 5m. RGB roll of 60 SMD5050 LED's/ M. off ebay for $43.00AUD. It came with a power supply and controller with a 14 key remote pad..
There would be many options available on your ebay..


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> I could display anything on the screen for the most part including a white screen. What did you have in mind for the white screen?


Apart from movie poster images from your PC, you could also display a transparency of any image you desire..just using the TV as a light box..


----------



## Gillig500

I too would like to know some info in regards to MainLobby . I have been following your thread and I must admit it is so awesome !!! I'm definitely going to use the 40" LCD poster display . I'm a newbie so hopefully people will be patient with me . 
Keep up the good work because your thread has inspired me to begin working on my HT . Can't wait to see your finished product . PM me with info on MainLobby / Cinemar . Thanks


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> I bought a 5m. RGB roll of 60 SMD5050 LED's/ M. off ebay for $43.00AUD. It came with a power supply and controller with a 14 key remote pad..
> There would be many options available on your ebay..


Cool. I'd be curious to see what the difference may be from the ones I have now.


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Apart from movie poster images from your PC, you could also display a transparency of any image you desire..just using the TV as a light box..


I thought that's where you were going with it. 

Only problem is the TV probably isn't the exact dimensions of a typical movie poster size. But you'd certainly get an evenly lit image.


----------



## mcascio

phillihp23 said:


> Actually I was just looking at the Cinemar MainLobby webpage...It looks interesting and possibly not so expensive??? What do you think a basic setup would run and how complicated is it to setup?


I sent you a PM. Feel free to call any time.

It's really not that expensive compared to other systems out there. Our software gets installed in all sizes of homes and all types of customers. It's really affordable for someone with a smaller budget to replicate an install of a multi million dollar 30,000 sq ft home that our software may be installed in. The software is really the least expensive of piece of the equation...it's the hardware that starts to add up.


----------



## mcascio

Gillig500 said:


> I too would like to know some info in regards to MainLobby . I have been following your thread and I must admit it is so awesome !!! I'm definitely going to use the 40" LCD poster display . I'm a newbie so hopefully people will be patient with me .
> Keep up the good work because your thread has inspired me to begin working on my HT . Can't wait to see your finished product . PM me with info on MainLobby / Cinemar . Thanks


Thanks for jumping in Gillig500.

I'll shoot you a PM.


----------



## mcascio

I put in a late night on the theater again working on the theater foyer.

I cut the fabric so I could staple it from the top of the ceiling down to the middle of the chair rail. * You wouldn't think the staples would hold in the drywall but it does!*

I then used 3/8" x 1/2" leg staples starting from the top left corner and stapling every inch or so. Once I was about two feet in across the top, I staple a few more on the left side to keep it from pulling in too much. I kept the fabric taught while stapling.
Once I staple all the way across the top to the other side, I stapled half way down the left side, then moved to the right side again pulling it taught while stapling to get any slack out of the fabric.










I used my rotary cutting tool to trim off the excess in the corner. Works like a charm.









Here's a shot of the door entry way with staples trimmed around the door.









Another shot after trimming the door cutout:









For the wall with the TV Mount and outlets, I stapled around the outlets. I had already made the holes for the TV mount so I found them again with my finger and applied hot glue larger than the size of the hole. So as I screw the bolt back into the hole it wouldn't twist and tear the nearby fabric:



















I finished three of the walls and then had to move to puttying the light tray.

You'll notice green painters tape on the ceiling. I marked all of the studs on the ceiling before hanging the fabric. This will come in handy when it comes time to hang the crown.


----------



## phillihp23

You'll have to be carefull with this thread...people are gonna start asking how much you charge....to build their theater rooms...


----------



## Gillig500

:T I like how your being so proactive . Trust me it saves a lot of time in the long run . Once again great work on your HT . I'll continue to follow your progress .

Best.


----------



## ALMFamily

Mario,

Good to see you doing the TV movie poster concept - I am doing it as well even though my wife thinks I am a geek for using a TV just to display posters. :bigsmile:

So, if I am reading this correctly, you are using software that is created by the place you work for to do all those functions?

Joe


----------



## mcascio

phillihp23 said:


> You'll have to be carefull with this thread...people are gonna start asking how much you charge....to build their theater rooms...


I can't even imagine trying to bid a project of this scope.


----------



## mcascio

ALMFamily said:


> Mario,
> 
> Good to see you doing the TV movie poster concept - I am doing it as well even though my wife thinks I am a geek for using a TV just to display posters. :bigsmile:
> 
> So, if I am reading this correctly, you are using software that is created by the place you work for to do all those functions?
> 
> Joe


Joe. I took a bit of smack from my wife to on the tv but she also gave me a hard time about the urinal and now thinks it's pretty cool.

Cost-wise, it's not that much more going the tv movie poster route...especially after you start adding up poster costs annually. The ability to add interactivity steps it up a notch.

Yes. MainLobby will handle updating the movie poster display.

There so many possibilities to what you could display. Just thought of another one.

Say you are entertaining friends for movie night, you could have a countdown showing how long before the movie starts. Even tie it into one of our popcorn theater intro music bits.

You could also display what time the movie officially ends based on the remaining time.


----------



## mcascio

Gillig500 said:


> :T I like how your being so proactive . Trust me it saves a lot of time in the long run . Once again great work on your HT . I'll continue to follow your progress .
> 
> Best.


Thanks. I couldn't agree with you more.


----------



## Prof.

looks like it's all coming together very nicely Mario..Are you seeing light at the end of the tunnel yet!!


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> looks like it's all coming together very nicely Mario..Are you seeing light at the end of the tunnel yet!!


Thanks. Actually speaking of lights...I have 6 more lights to install yet. There goes the light at the end of the tunnel.


----------



## jgourlie

Why is it that, that light always seems to be so far away???


----------



## mcascio

jgourlie said:


> Why is it that, that light always seems to be so far away???


Yeah. If you actually put a punch list of the things left it sometimes appears to move further away instead of towards you.


----------



## mcascio

I spent the weekend in the Theater foyer. 

I wrapped up installing all the fabric, base, chair rail, crown and the corner trim. I did my last bit of coping (my least favorite thing to do) on one corner of the crown. I think it took me 2 hours for the one piece!

I do miss cutting in the theater. That was a huge time saver. Walking in/out in a 100 degree heat is no fun. I bought a small 10x10 popup canopy with sides to get a little relief from the sun which worked out pretty well. It would have also allowed me to keep working in case it rained; however, rain is pretty scarce right now in Wisconsin. 

It looks like I'll need to disassemble and spray paint the thermostat - it sticks out like a sore thumb.

The tray crown all got a finished coat from my FIL this morning and he gave the area behind the first row chairs a first coat of paint.


----------



## phillihp23

Looking Great!! So Jealous


----------



## Gillig500

Mario ,

I'm liking the vertical tv poster . Did you borrow the idea from TK Nice ? Because I too am going to borrow this idea except 
I'm going to have mine outside the theater . Good work on the foyer very impressive I might add . I also sent you a PM .

Best


----------



## mcascio

phillihp23 said:


> Looking Great!! So Jealous


Thanks phillihp23.


----------



## mcascio

Gillig500 said:


> Mario ,
> 
> I'm liking the vertical tv poster . Did you borrow the idea from TK Nice ? Because I too am going to borrow this idea except
> I'm going to have mine outside the theater . Good work on the foyer very impressive I might add . I also sent you a PM .
> 
> Best


Hi Gillig500,

I'm not sure who was the originator concept of the movie poster tv idea itself, but the first time I saw it was probably five or six years ago. It was from a MainLobby customer (the guy who started Orbitz). I'll try to search our forum to see if I can track it down. 

I was thinking of building an animation with flashing lights that would surround the movie poster to give it that marquee effect.

I probably would have opted to put mine outside if I had a good spot for it. But I always have the option of leaving the foyer door open to the rest of the basement so it ends up working out pretty good right where it's at.

I'm contemplating putting an exit sign in the theater foyer as well. 

Thanks for the PM. Right back at ya!


----------



## Dotball

mcascio said:


> Hi Gillig500,
> 
> I'm contemplating putting an exit sign in the theater foyer as well.


Mario,

You can get exit signs or spread LED's which only come on in the event of power failure. That way you can put one in the HT and it wont disturb the ambiance under normal conditions. They do have a small colored LED indicating normal power but it shouldn't be too annoying.

Anyway check them out at your local electrical supplier.

HTH
Cheers,


----------



## mcascio

Dotball said:


> Mario,
> 
> You can get exit signs or spread LED's which only come on in the event of power failure. That way you can put one in the HT and it wont disturb the ambiance under normal conditions. They do have a small colored LED indicating normal power but it shouldn't be too annoying.
> 
> Anyway check them out at your local electrical supplier.
> 
> HTH
> Cheers,


Thanks. I'll do some investigating.


----------



## Dotball

Australian site but will give you an idea.

http://www.clevertronics.com.au/emergency_luminaires.html

and a picture of one installed. (I hope :dontknow

















That is one of the spread LED's.

HTH
Cheers,


----------



## PTAaron

I've been away for a bit, but I'm glad to see you're still making great progress! Looks amazing!
I LOVE the TV as a poster idea, I would love to do something like that myself at some point.


----------



## HTip

PTAaron said:


> I've been away for a bit, but I'm glad to see you're still making great progress! Looks amazing!


+1

I should go away on holiday more and by the time I come home you're all finished and enjoying your amazing Home Theater :TT


----------



## mcascio

Thanks guys. Last week was rough getting into the theater for very long with the holiday and just being tired. So I was happy to make some good progress this weekend as I make my final push.


----------



## mcascio

Here's a recap from the weekend as I try to widdle the list down.

I finally finished installing the strike plate for the theater door.




















I used a 3/4" paddle bit to drill out the center, then a dremel to shape it more like the opening:










I started priming, then sanding all the remaining mouldings I'll need for the theater door and the column sides.











I installed the last vent in the theater after applying three coats of Rustoleum Flat black. It blended nicely into the ceiling.










I wrapped the entire foyer so my FIL can finish coat everything. He thought I didn't need to wrap and tape it, but I really wasn't sure how to get latex paint off the fabric if some did drip on it. After wrapping, I finished putting puttying everything. So final coat will hopefully be sometime this week and then I can install the foyer light.









After my first coat of black on the theater door mouldings, I started assembling some of them. It's gonna take at least another couple nights this week to finish.










I finished putting all the fabric on the frames for the bottom front columns. They are just sitting in there right now. It looks like I may need to finish nail them in. I tried velcro and putty, but I think the only way to get a tight seam flush with the front is to finish nail. The fabric pushes it out just enough and the frames are not always perfectly flush due to the wood imperfections.


----------



## Prof.

It's the little things that take the time!


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> It's the little things that take the time!


You got that right. The last mile in the marathon is always the most difficult.


----------



## mcascio

I finished attaching moulding to one side of the theater door. Just needs some sanding, putty and a finished coat of paint.











Here's the dimensions I went with for laying out the trim for anyone interested:


----------



## HTip

mcascio said:


> You got that right. The last mile in the marathon is always the most difficult.


So right. That's why it took me almost 3,5 years to complete our HT 

BTW: Is that door so small or that level so long?


----------



## mcascio

HTip said:


> So right. That's why it took me almost 3,5 years to complete our HT
> 
> BTW: Is that door so small or that level so long?


I have a friend who has gone through an entire home build during my theater build. 

When you consider all the extra parts that go into a theater, room within room, loads of insulation, lots of moulding, it's probably like 4 rooms in one.

I'm trying to think when the next time I'll need to use a level that big. I bought it to level the door jamb.


----------



## Owen Bartley

A level that big was a HUGE help when we did our patio last summer. making sure the grade on the screening material was good, and then checking the stones as they went down were pretty important for my peace of mind that I wouldn't be pooling water around the foundation. So there you go, you have the start of your next project!


----------



## HTip

I bought levels which can also be used for flooring and paths outside, etc. They helped me with to level the timber on the walls in both vertical and horizontal direction. At one time I used 7 levels at the same time :yikes: We are not that precise


----------



## mcascio

Hey Guys. Don't give me any ideas. One project at a time.


----------



## mcascio

I started worked on the fabric frames for the upper column sides.

After priming and applying two coats of black, I precut the determined lengths and assembled the frame separately. Sanding the corners and sharp edges a bit. I'll have to repaint them one more time lightly after putty anyways.

I decided it would be better in this case to staple the fabric to the column first. I traced the outline of where the frame will sit and made sure I kept the staples in that area. A little challenging with a smaller 3/4" width frame.




















Once I finished stapling, I used 18 ga 1 1/4" brads to attach the frame. Then used my handy dandy rotary cutter to trim off a nice straight edge using the frame as my guide.










Now I just need to step and repeat 15 more times.


----------



## Owen Bartley

mcascio said:


> Now I just need to step and repeat 15 more times.


:rofl: Lol... I don't know why but I found that hilarious.

I bet those M&K speakers will really sing behind the fabric enclosed columns. Did you ever mention what mode you planned to run them in? I think they call it dipole or tripole modes?


----------



## mcascio

Owen Bartley said:


> :rofl: Lol... I don't know why but I found that hilarious.
> 
> I bet those M&K speakers will really sing behind the fabric enclosed columns. Did you ever mention what mode you planned to run them in? I think they call it dipole or tripole modes?


Yeah. I'm anxious to hear them in the room. They really produce some fantastic sound and seem to envelope the listener.

I'm planning on running them in Tripole mode. Although that's a whole 'nother phase after the build. 

It looks like Onkyo finally released an 11.2 capable receiver...just wish I would have waited a little bit before I bought mine since it can only do 9.2 simultaneously. Eventually I'll be upgrading though and just move that receiver to a different room I guess.

The wides and highs sound incredible on their own, I can't wait to hear them all on at once with the rest of the speakers.


----------



## mcascio

Weekend update.

I continued building the upper column frames. I also got two coats of paint on the next batch so they can be ready for assembly.










I found stapling one end of the fabric to the wall made it easier to work with the fabric out of the way...then it was easy to pull out of the wall.

For making sure the side frame lined up with the front top frame, I used this corner level.









Then I reused my old corner block I had made to make sure it was set back the exact distance:









I also used a large 2" metal ruler as a guide when stapling the fabric near the wall side. My frame happened to be 2" away from the drywall so it worked out great giving me a straight line to follow as well as pull the fabric tight.

I also started putting some of the recycled denim into the fabric frames.









I finished putting in the sconces as well in the back of the room. I was able to figure out how they wired it without having to call back the electricians.



















D-Box shipped out the repaired actuator so I'm anxious to test it out. 

I need to start working on the door threshold and seals. Just wondering what everyone else has done regarding painting / spraying the seals. I'm think I could tape or remove the rubber gaskets and then spray prime, then flat black spray paint? Anyone have success just painting them?


----------



## Owen Bartley

mcascio said:


> It looks like Onkyo finally released an 11.2 capable receiver...


Mario, I did a quick google search and didn't see one, what's the new model?

I love all the little tools and gadgets you have like the corner clamps, and that yellow corner level. Those must have been priceless through this build. Oh, and the denim is backed with foil?


----------



## mcascio

Owen Bartley said:


> Mario, I did a quick google search and didn't see one, what's the new model?
> 
> I love all the little tools and gadgets you have like the corner clamps, and that yellow corner level. Those must have been priceless through this build. Oh, and the denim is backed with foil?


Thanks Owen. I've acquired tools during this project and you do end up finding multiple uses for them.

Onkyo announced their TX-NR5010 that is 11.2 capable with an external amp.

The denim is foil backed. It's denimed for hvac use.


----------



## Owen Bartley

Thanks Mario... Wow, 11.4 capable, that is a lot of channels. I had been thinking that I wanted to go 11.4, but now I think that in the room we will be using I just don't need the extra width channels (and might not even have room for the height either, being realistic). But... if this feature does trickle down into the more affordable receivers, I'll look for it "just in case".


----------



## mcascio

I continued work on the upper side column fabric frames. Turns out I was one board short...it'd been quite some time since I figured out the materials...so I forgot I was supposed to use the scraps to cut the smaller 5.75" top/bottom pieces rather than use an 8' piece to make them. I'm hoping Menard's will have the same trim which I know they do, but hope that the profile will match identical to the one from the lumber yard...otherwise it's one more trip up to Milwaukee. 

I wanted to figure out a way to make the frames in two sections removable so I could have the option to play with the acoustic treatments in between the columns.

So I went old school and just predrilled a bunch of holes after tracing the moulding outline in position.









Then I used some left over Kreg screws on the inside of the columns to attach the moulding in place.


















Then I removed the frame and stapled the fabric and remounted the moulding frame. Now I can take them on/off fairly easily. On the plus side, there are no visible brad nail holes either.


----------



## mcascio

Owen Bartley said:


> Thanks Mario... Wow, 11.4 capable, that is a lot of channels. I had been thinking that I wanted to go 11.4, but now I think that in the room we will be using I just don't need the extra width channels (and might not even have room for the height either, being realistic). But... if this feature does trickle down into the more affordable receivers, I'll look for it "just in case".


I've always been a big fan of heights and wides. If you have an opportunity to listen to them I would at least test it out just in case. But sometimes the room will dictate that.


----------



## J&D

Mario,
Amazing build. That room is shaping up very nicely and the end product looks to be stunning. All of the trim work looks fantastic, very high end and great choice of colors as well.

JD


----------



## mcascio

J&D said:


> Mario,
> Amazing build. That room is shaping up very nicely and the end product looks to be stunning. All of the trim work looks fantastic, very high end and great choice of colors as well.
> 
> JD


Thanks for the compliments JD. Only a few pieces of trim left on the project.


----------



## mcascio

Been a while since I posted some full room shots.

Here's with most of the side column upper frames in place.









Instead of making the drive to Milwaukee for the one missing moulding, I decided to glue two pieces together to make the length I needed. By time I sand and paint it, I don't think anyone including myself will know it's there. So I was happy to save the trip.









I finished terminating the cables in the patch panel. 









Then installed the frame and door that I built months ago. I decided to use four L-brackets to hold the fabric frame to the wall just in case I needed to ever remove it for some reason.


















I added some more recycled denim into a frame.









And then installed.



























The theater foyer and both doors got their final coat of paint thanks to my FIL.


----------



## Prof.

Looking VERY nice Mario..Keep up the good work..:T


----------



## Owen Bartley

I love the heavy use of pocket holes throughout the project, and as shown on that frame. That must be very sturdy (I assume you glued it as well, but even without glue it should be a tank with that many screws).


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Looking VERY nice Mario..Keep up the good work..:T


Thanks Prof. for keeping my motivation level's high.


----------



## mcascio

Owen Bartley said:


> I love the heavy use of pocket holes throughout the project, and as shown on that frame. That must be very sturdy (I assume you glued it as well, but even without glue it should be a tank with that many screws).


Thanks Owen. I used glue on 99% of the pocket holes joints. There were a few cases where if I thought I might want to have flexibility to adjust it later, that I didn't.


----------



## mcascio

Here's the weekend update. Lot's of progress.

I terminated most of the connections in the rack to the Onkyo receiver, but ran out of banana plugs. So I ordered a bunch more. I still need to unbox the Emotiva Amp and get that put in the rack though.

I noticed since adding some incandescent lights in the foyer and back of the room, the colors shifted a bit so forgive the pictures if they are a bit from the true colors, but they are still pretty close.
I finished cutting all of the denim and putting it behind all the fabric panels. I had just enough to cover the entire room. I ended up treating every panel at the moment until I can do some further testing.

I took down all of the plastic in the theater foyer and installed the foyer light that had been boxed up for the past year.


















I cleaned up and wired the entry lights with some an Insteon switch and Keypad Linc. I plan to control the entire room on/off with the keypad including Movie Poster TV along with some of the LED/Black Lights and one touch mood lighting.









Here are some random shots looking into the back of the room.













































Shot of the black sprayed thermostat.










I sprayed three more LED can lights flat black and installed them in the front to wash the screen.










With most lights turned off. I think it produces a nice uniform light, matches the others, plus only uses 30 watts. 









I hung the projector and terminated two of the cat6 connections. I noticed that the part that mounts to the projector itself seems pretty movable, just wondering if it's supposed to be that way or if it should be completely locked and unable to move the projector in any direction. I failed to notice during my design that the mount contained two parts, so the projector dropped another 1.5" from the ceiling. I was able to lower the screen about 3/4" so it's still pretty close to lining up. 


















I installed all of the speakers around the room and the shelving. I had to rip and cut a few more black shelving. I also put adjustable shelves in the front of the room. I was happy that all of the wires/speakers worked after making the connections. I had one scare, where a speaker wasn't working but found the problem. The wires travel through the patch panel before it makes it's way to the rack, so you have to trace all the steps. Turned out to be a quick splice I made at the speaker itself.









Here are the height speakers in the corner mounted as high as I could go behind the GOM fabric and pointed down at the primary listening position.









These M&K S-150's are stand in's for the M&K S-5000's.









You'll notice I ripped the black velvet from the top of the cabinet. I'm going to attempt to replace it with the light trapped flocking material. I'm hoping that is a bit more resilient. But on top of that, I think it more closely matches the color of the black on the wood...so I think it will blend better and even have better darkening than the velvet. I'm just nervous about working with a 12'6 sticker and bending it around the front without it sticking to itself.

I also hung the hangman cleats for the Seymour screen.









I have some of the side mouldings removed so I could put in the fabric panels. Here are some overall room shots.































































Next steps are to rewrap top front cabinet. Test DBox platform. Install threshold when parts arrive.


----------



## ALMFamily

Looking absolutely fabulous Mario! :T

Keep up the great work!


----------



## phillihp23

I can't watch this thread anymore.......its too nice....makes me feel like I am watching movies in a shack. :rubeyes:


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> I hung the projector and terminated two of the cat6 connections. I noticed that the part that mounts to the projector itself seems pretty movable, just wondering if it's supposed to be that way or if it should be completely locked and unable to move the projector in any direction. I failed to notice during my design that the mount contained two parts, so the projector dropped another 1.5" from the ceiling. I was able to lower the screen about 3/4" so it's still pretty close to lining up.


Mario..which projector mount did you use?

I found the same problem with my Peerless mount..The quick release slide unit seemed tight when I first assembled the unit, but when the projector was mounted, the slide had some movement in it! Made it very difficult to make any adjustments when aligning the projector!..
Very disappointing actually..You pay top dollar for a quality mount, only to find it's no more precision than a $60.00 mount!! :thumbsdown:


----------



## Owen Bartley

phillihp23 said:


> I can't watch this thread anymore.......its too nice....makes me feel like I am watching movies in a shack. :rubeyes:


Don't worry Phillip, you're in the right place for that!


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Mario..which projector mount did you use?
> 
> I found the same problem with my Peerless mount..The quick release slide unit seemed tight when I first assembled the unit, but when the projector was mounted, the slide had some movement in it! Made it very difficult to make any adjustments when aligning the projector!..
> Very disappointing actually..You pay top dollar for a quality mount, only to find it's no more precision than a $60.00 mount!! :thumbsdown:


I'm using the Chief RPAU Mount. Mine didn't even seem tight when it was connected to the projector before mounting it to the ceiling plate.
I'll have to take it down and see if I missed something. It's nice to have a little play when it's up there for minor adjustments but I think it should be fairly tight so removing the cap doesn't offset it.


----------



## mcascio

Owen Bartley said:


> Don't worry Phillip, you're in the right place for that!


Too funny.


----------



## phillihp23




----------



## HTB2015

So I've spent the last weekend and first couple nights this week going through this 50 page thread, and I've gone through it about 3 or 4 times. What sticks out the most to me is your intricate planning. This is the best and most detailed thread I've seen to date. I may not have many posts on HTS but I'm always watching everyone's HT projects. I can definitely say that there are numerous parts of your theater that are great and will be sticking in my future HT project. Where did you get your inspiration for this project? Also, as organized as this thread is, I'm assuming you have a start to finish materials list? Any chance on sharing it?

-Jared

P.S. My wife just said "are you looking at that guy's theater...AGAIN!":dontknow:


----------



## untuned

Don't feel alone my friend... I have a direct shortcut to this thread lol


----------



## mcascio

HTB2015 said:


> So I've spent the last weekend and first couple nights this week going through this 50 page thread, and I've gone through it about 3 or 4 times. What sticks out the most to me is your intricate planning. This is the best and most detailed thread I've seen to date. I may not have many posts on HTS but I'm always watching everyone's HT projects. I can definitely say that there are numerous parts of your theater that are great and will be sticking in my future HT project. Where did you get your inspiration for this project? Also, as organized as this thread is, I'm assuming you have a start to finish materials list? Any chance on sharing it?
> 
> -Jared
> 
> P.S. My wife just said "are you looking at that guy's theater...AGAIN!":dontknow:


Jared. Thanks for your post. 

I hate making uninformed decisions that lead to rework....especially if I'm one doing the rework. . 

I'm glad you were able to find some goodies in there. 

I had seen a theater on the Avs a few years ago by Koach that I liked. He had drawn inspiration from another theater there as well. 
So it's good to keep passing the inspiration along and see how it evolves. I know there are a few other builds in progress that are going to look similar to mine. So I'm anxious to see how they integrate into their rooms.


----------



## mcascio

I finished rewrapping the front stage cabinet top with the Protostar Hitack flocked light trap material.
I think because it's not as dark as the black velvet it actually blends better next to the painted wood.

My FIL gave all the oak steps and bullnose another coat of floor paint.

The M&K S-5000THX front speakers are now in place. I'll probably need to lower them a tad.





















I used Loctite PL Premium to glue down the maple primed threshold. It's 2.5" wide. 
The board had a little bow to it so I put some weights on it to keep it flat.
I'll need to cut the shims tonight.


















I used 320 fine sanding sponge to sand the surface of the door stop seals from the SoundProofing Company. I completely removed the inside rubber seal and center track by unscrewing all of the screws. Then I wiped down the aluminum with some Naptha to remove any grease from the machining of the screw holes. Next I sprayed a gray primer onto the aluminum. Next, I'll cut to size, then spray a flat back spray on them. Then finally they will be painted with the same eggshell paint as the rest of the room.









I started using some scrap base that I had ripped down. I plan to stack them on top of each other, and then put them into the soffit to help elevate the LED lighting so it's beam casts higher than the black lights up in the soffit. Otherwise, the black lights are creating shadow lines that I don't want to see.


----------



## ALMFamily

Great work as always Mario! :T

Looking forward to your impression of the door lock - I am planning to use it as well and would love to hear how you think it performs.


----------



## PTAaron

Looks absolutely amazing so far! Keep up the good work.


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> The M&K S-5000THX front speakers are now in place. I'll probably need to lower them a tad.


Mario, I wouldn't lower them any more than they are now..If anything, I would raise them up a bit..
Also the L&R speakers need to come in a little..
Ideally they should be just at the edges of the width of the 16:9 image to give a smooth pan of sound across the screen..


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Mario, I wouldn't lower them any more than they are now..If anything, I would raise them up a bit..
> Also the L&R speakers need to come in a little..
> Ideally they should be just at the edges of the width of the 16:9 image to give a smooth pan of sound across the screen..


Hi Prof.

Thanks for the input.

I was following the Audyssey guidelines for speaker placement.









This puts my front left/rights at the edge of the 2.35 screen. But I also have masking panels that I'm working around. There's a 1.5" bar frame that I have to avoid.

As far as height, I was trying to get the tweeters at the primary listening positions ear level (which is the front row). This would mean I'd have to lower them a bit while staying above the screen frame.

I'm glad I did move to the S5000 THX since it has a bigger sound stage to help accomodate both rows. And when you add the Front High's, it's just a wall of sound coming at you.


----------



## mcascio

HTB2015 said:


> So I've spent the last weekend and first couple nights this week going through this 50 page thread, and I've gone through it about 3 or 4 times. What sticks out the most to me is your intricate planning. This is the best and most detailed thread I've seen to date. I may not have many posts on HTS but I'm always watching everyone's HT projects. I can definitely say that there are numerous parts of your theater that are great and will be sticking in my future HT project. Where did you get your inspiration for this project? Also, as organized as this thread is, I'm assuming you have a start to finish materials list? Any chance on sharing it?
> 
> -Jared
> 
> P.S. My wife just said "are you looking at that guy's theater...AGAIN!":dontknow:


Jared,

Forgot to respond to your materials list question. Due to the number of receipts and the basement build happening simultaneously, I didn't care to itemize everything. It would have been extremely time consuming.
I've got several hundred receipts probably just from the local big box stores.


----------



## HTB2015

Oh yeah, I can relate to that with all of my projects! Thanks for sharing your build, it will be a great resource for me and, I'm sure, others! It's also interested me in Cinemar's products which seem very affordable comparably. 
-Jared


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> Hi Prof.
> 
> Thanks for the input.
> 
> I was following the Audyssey guidelines for speaker placement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This puts my front left/rights at the edge of the 2.35 screen. But I also have masking panels that I'm working around. There's a 1.5" bar frame that I have to avoid.
> 
> As far as height, I was trying to get the tweeters at the primary listening positions ear level (which is the front row). This would mean I'd have to lower them a bit while staying above the screen frame.
> 
> I'm glad I did move to the S5000 THX since it has a bigger sound stage to help accomodate both rows. And when you add the Front High's, it's just a wall of sound coming at you.


If you toe in your left and right speakers as shown in the Audyssey diagram, then you could get away with them at the sides of the 2.35 screen..Your photo shows your speakers as square on..If this is how you intend to use them, then ideally the L&R speakers should come in a bit from the sides..

What you're trying to achieve is for the sound to extend beyond the left and right speakers and project a little along the side walls..
Considering the sound wave dispersion of the speakers is more in the horizontal plane, you're restricting the wave to the outer sides of the speakers by having them square on and relatively close to the side walls..
If you toe them in, then the side wave is able to spread out more..

I originally had mine to the outer edges of my 2.40 screen, and had them toed in, but when I built my baffle wall I move them in to the edge of the 16:9 image, and the difference in the sound stage was obvious!


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> As far as height, I was trying to get the tweeters at the primary listening positions ear level (which is the front row). This would mean I'd have to lower them a bit while staying above the screen frame.


The height of the speakers is also relative to the screen height as well..So the rule of thumb is that tweeters need to be approx.1/3 of the way up from the bottom of the screen..
If this places the tweeters above your ears when seated, just angle the speakers down a little..


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> If you toe in your left and right speakers as shown in the Audyssey diagram, then you could get away with them at the sides of the 2.35 screen..Your photo shows your speakers as square on..If this is how you intend to use them, then ideally the L&R speakers should come in a bit from the sides..
> 
> What you're trying to achieve is for the sound to extend beyond the left and right speakers and project a little along the side walls..
> Considering the sound wave dispersion of the speakers is more in the horizontal plane, you're restricting the wave to the outer sides of the speakers by having them square on and relatively close to the side walls..
> If you toe them in, then the side wave is able to spread out more..
> 
> I originally had mine to the outer edges of my 2.40 screen, and had them toed in, but when I built my baffle wall I move them in to the edge of the 16:9 image, and the difference in the sound stage was obvious!


Thanks Prof. I actually have them angled in but it's hard to tell from the pictures. I may need to cut back some of the denim in order to angle them even more but I think they are pretty much pointed at the primary listening position. What I'll probably do is add another set of brackets which should allow me to position them at the edge of the 16:9 image. This will give me options to play around later.


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> The height of the speakers is also relative to the screen height as well..So the rule of thumb is that tweeters need to be approx.1/3 of the way up from the bottom of the screen..
> If this places the tweeters above your ears when seated, just angle the speakers down a little..


Yeah. I guess you have to break some rules to achieve others. My thought was to cheat them lower and angle them up so the not only line up with the front row listeners but also the back row since it's on an incline.

My front row is lower than I would have liked it. 

If the DBox weren't in the front row, I'd say the back row is probably a better movie watching position.


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> Thanks Prof. I actually have them angled in but it's hard to tell from the pictures. I may need to cut back some of the denim in order to angle them even more but I think they are pretty much pointed at the primary listening position. What I'll probably do is add another set of brackets which should allow me to position them at the edge of the 16:9 image. This will give me options to play around later.


That's a good idea..If you like the spread of sound at the 16:9 position, you won't need as much toe in and it won't be necessary to cut into the denim..


----------



## Owen Bartley

Mario, I love how those M&K's look at the front of the room. I think as long as your stands aren't permanently fixed in place, you'll probably find some benefit from tweaking after the room is all set up. Start out with them where you think they should go, and then when you have everything else in place run through some material and follow Prof.'s suggestions. Maybe a little more toe-in would help, maybe you could bring them in a little bit, and if you think they're too high you could certainly angle them down some. 

My concern with lowering the speakers farther than they already are is that you might get some blockage from the screen wall/frame. I would rather see the speakers a little higher, to anchor the sound closer to the middle of the screen, and angled down a bit to the listening position although the spread between 1st and 2nd row will be greater. Some testing and fiddling around will likely solve any problems.


----------



## mcascio

Owen Bartley said:


> Mario, I love how those M&K's look at the front of the room. I think as long as your stands aren't permanently fixed in place, you'll probably find some benefit from tweaking after the room is all set up. Start out with them where you think they should go, and then when you have everything else in place run through some material and follow Prof.'s suggestions. Maybe a little more toe-in would help, maybe you could bring them in a little bit, and if you think they're too high you could certainly angle them down some.
> 
> My concern with lowering the speakers farther than they already are is that you might get some blockage from the screen wall/frame. I would rather see the speakers a little higher, to anchor the sound closer to the middle of the screen, and angled down a bit to the listening position although the spread between 1st and 2nd row will be greater. Some testing and fiddling around will likely solve any problems.


Thanks guys. I think experimentation is the key word here. I like how they sound now where they are placed. But I'll have to move them and then rerun Audyssey to see if I like them better. It's really hard to tell though after 20 minutes passes and you can't compare them instantly.


I will add another bracket though and a 3' shelf to allow me to bring them closer inside to the 16:9 edge. Better to have the option. It's easier to do now before the screen goes up.

EDIT: Is it an issue for me to put some rubber padding on the shelf to help absorb any energy from the speakers or will that reduce their affect?


----------



## mcascio

Here's a quick recap of the weekend.

I cut down the floor box using a dremel in preperation for the carpet.




















I used a file to sand the rough edges. There's multiple pieces to the floor box, but the top will have a finished look.









I primed and sprayed flat black on the door seals and door bottom. The Rustoleum Flat black was a good match to the egg shell finish. The satin is a bit too glossy.









It's difficult to see, but the door seals are installed. I cut them with a blade designed to cut metal so I wouldn't ruin my fine finish blade. Be careful, the scrap piece is extremely hot to the touch. I'd recommend assembling everything before priming and painting. I found that the spray paint bubbled up from the heat so I had to sand and give it another coat in some cases.









I had about a 3/16" gap where the header piece was just too short. The header piece came precut (mitered on both ends) to 3' so I think that was the problem. I would think they should miter just one end and let the user cut the other so it can be fit properly. 

Here's a shot of the door bottom seal prior to the finish coat. When mounting it I closed the door and just raised it up 3/8". Be sure to screw in the adjustment knob all the way inside the cavity first. 









I assembled my boards to raise up the LED's in the soffit so they sit above the black lights and installed them.









I opened up my last tube of acousitcal sealant so I could close the gap between the platform and the concrete foundation.









I swicthed out the led color bars in my Insteon switch to red to see if I like it. It's a bit dimmer, but matches the fabric nicely.









Finally, I had to elevate the Dbox platform actuators. I won't be putting any pad on the platform so you get the maximum effect. So I need to compensate. I made these with channels for the cabling to fit under.


----------



## mcascio

Ok it's been a while since I've done a composite.

So I thought it would be cool to try with the fabric panels in place now.

Can you tell what's real and what's not?


----------



## ALMFamily

The chairs are not real!

Note - I only know this because I follow this thread!


----------



## Prof.

Neither is the carpet!


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> Is it an issue for me to put some rubber padding on the shelf to help absorb any energy from the speakers or will that reduce their affect?


It may or may not help..Something you'll need to try after it's all set up..
Generally some form of isolation is good..


----------



## Dotball

Oh that's so not fair, I was going to say both of those. :unbelievable:

I will add the sconce lights on the back wall.

Did I win anything? :dontknow:

Cheers,


----------



## mcascio

Here's the division line of the render vs real photo. I made it really simple on you guys. Next one might not be that easy. 










Here's what the room should look like Thursday after carpet is installed minus the work table and tools.
The top half of the room is real...the carpet and steps are 3D.


----------



## mcascio

It took two guys the whole day to install the carpet. They glued the pad to the floor then glued the carpet to the pad. Hopefully this never has to come out!










I'll try to get some more photos later.

They brought the DBox platform carpet back to the shop to bind the edges. They made sure the patterns lined up once I velcro it to the platform. I should have taken a picture, but they used rubber to ramp the carpeting up to the 3/4" bull nose edges so they weren't tripping hazards. While they guys were careful, I'm going to have to do a lot of touch ups along the base. Everything was tucked so they had to jamb it down along certain areas were I didn't have base. Now that I think of it, the face of the platforms I think I ran all the way to the ground, I should have left them a 3/8" gap so they could tuck under. I guess next time. 


I finished putting up the LED lighting strips in the soffit. The sticker worked really nice. I used 5050 HitLight Strip ligthing. They had 300 LED's per 16.4 ft. I was connecting them together and found they lost their vibrance once you reach over 20'. So I used a 5050YSplitter right at the power source and ran the lights in opposite directions in the soffit. They both met up in the diagnol corner so both strips ended up being the same length which meant that the intensity matched up as well.
http://www.hitlights.com/5050ysplitter.html

I used the invisible connectors to join them so there was no break in the lighting:
http://www.hitlights.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=5050CONNTB

Just be sure to leave the sticker backing on otherwise it's challenging to fit in. I had to put the sticker peel back on the back to make it work.


----------



## mcascio

Here's a couple pics of how I did the led strip lighting in the soffit. As I've shown in this thread, I elevated my led strip by about 1.25" to get higher than the black lights (which I still need to install 7 more).

I put the lights closer to the wall so they would have a better chance of clearing the height of the black lights which are sitting in the crown cavitiy itself.





















I left a gap in my led board elevators so I could squeeze the cables for the blacklights through and not have to go over the led's which would create a shadow on the ceiling.
In the corners, I also made a swooping loop so that they wouldn't be dark. You loop it around and then come back under.









I have plenty of room to add another led row if I want too. But the effect is pretty amazing when you look up from the center of the room and you can't see any corners. It really looks like it goes on forever.


----------



## Prof.

The LED strip lights look GREAT Mario..Very nicely and evenly illuminated..:TT



> Just be sure to leave the sticker backing on otherwise it's challenging to fit in. I had to put the sticker peel back on the back to make it work.


I've just ordered some of those connectors as well, for my new LED strip lights..
Are you saying to leave the backing tape on to fit them into the connector, or remove the backing tape and just leave the adhesive on the strip?


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> The LED strip lights look GREAT Mario..Very nicely and evenly illuminated..:TT
> 
> 
> I've just ordered some of those connectors as well, for my new LED strip lights..
> Are you saying to leave the backing tape on to fit them into the connector, or remove the backing tape and just leave the adhesive on the strip?


Thanks Prof. and thanks for the tips on the 5050. They are definitely brighter than the older set I had bought a couple years ago.

You want to leave the backing tape on so it slides easily into the enclosure. If it's sticky it won't slide easily into it.


----------



## Prof.

Thanks Mario..I tried that with a similar connector on my previous 5050's but I couldn't get it under the contacts..It seemed that it was too thick to go in!
The only way I could get it to go in was to remove the backing tape..It did make it difficult as you mentioned..with trying to push it in against the sticky surface..and the connection was not very secure..
Perhaps those clip down connectors are not all the same!..Were you able to close the clip with the backing tape still on?


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Thanks Mario..I tried that with a similar connector on my previous 5050's but I couldn't get it under the contacts..It seemed that it was too thick to go in!
> The only way I could get it to go in was to remove the backing tape..It did make it difficult as you mentioned..with trying to push it in against the sticky surface..and the connection was not very secure..
> Perhaps those clip down connectors are not all the same!..Were you able to close the clip with the backing tape still on?


Yeah. I was able to close the clip no problem. There are two grooves that you need to make sure you go into before inserting it. With a little wiggling, they do go in and create a nice seamless transition.


----------



## Prof.

OK.thanks..I'll give it another try when the next lot of LED's and connectors arrive..


----------



## mcascio

Ok. So it was a busy weekend.

All the black lights are installed. 

I started working on putting butt kickers in the Berklines. But I noticed after installing one that you can feel the board it mounts to ever so slightly when you sit into the seat. I'm not a very heavy person so I don't notice it unless I'm bouncing on the seat and it eventually stops at the bottom. So I stopped at the one and will just get it connected to see if I want to proceed with the rest of the back row seats.

The Seymour screen went in this weekend. It was extremely easy to build. It did take two to hang, but otherwise it was a simple one man job. The picture looks fantastic. Rango looks just incredible on it!
The bounded carpet for the Dbox platform came in. I still need to bolt the deck to the aluminum frame, but the weight of the chairs itself is doing a fairly good job at the moment while I test out everything. I want to make sure all the cabling is right where it needs to be before making it more difficult to remove.

Here are some pics as I added the first row, then the second.














































I had them wrap the carpet down into the Dbox platform so it looks pretty seamless once the top bounded carpet is on the deck.


----------



## phillihp23

Incredible :sob:


----------



## erwinbel

Fantastic! I am more of a modernist, but it takes all kinds to make the world go round... This is a truly great result! Great skills! I hope I can be just as persistent as you.


----------



## ALMFamily

I would like to hire the guy who takes your pictures! 

Looks great Mario!


----------



## robbo266317

Well I'm jealous. 

Nice work.


----------



## jgourlie

Simply stunning....nice work


----------



## Rokkar

Hi Mario,

I have two questions:

1. Is there a specific purpose for using Zinsser BIN as a primer?

2. Did it come tinted gray or did you have it tinted? If so, could you tell me the tint color? 
I am using similar colors in my theater and I want to get it right.

Looking great and thanks again for the inspiration.

Rok


----------



## Prof.

It looks absolutely FANTASTIC Mario.. You've done a first class job!!..:TT


----------



## Dotball

Absolutely amazing, you must be very proud.

Congratulations.

Cheers,


----------



## mcascio

Thanks to everyone for sticking with me on the project and your positive comments. There's still more to do now that most of the room construction is done. So hopefully you'll continue the journey with me.




Rokkar said:


> Hi Mario,
> 
> I have two questions:
> 
> 1. Is there a specific purpose for using Zinsser BIN as a primer?
> 
> 2. Did it come tinted gray or did you have it tinted? If so, could you tell me the tint color?
> I am using similar colors in my theater and I want to get it right.
> 
> Looking great and thanks again for the inspiration.
> 
> Rok



I went with Zinsser BIN primer because I thought it would help seal the MDF. It also covers well and goes over just about anything. It sands smooth. 

I had them tint it gray. Not sure what the tint color was, but just ask them to make it as dark as possible and it ends up gray. There's only so much black they can put into 1 gallon.

I'd highly recommend it. Your brush will **** up at times so if you are doing a lot at a time, take a clean rag and wipe the brush down a bit.


----------



## mcascio

Jeff from Night Sky Murals will be here tomorrow morning to paint the star ceiling. So I'm anxious to see how that turns out. Hopefully I can get some good shots with my camera that represent what I actually see.


----------



## Rokkar

Great! Thanks for the info, really appreciate it. Eagerly awaiting the next set of photos!

Rok


----------



## mcascio

Jeff from Night Sky Murals was over last Thursday painting the star ceiling. What a fantastic guy. Funny too!

I'd like to say it was a pleasure to see him work, but he works in the dark. The star ceiling turned out fantastic and was a big hit at my daughters birthday party this weekend.

I'll try to get some snapshots together and post them here.


----------



## mcascio

I did finish wrapping up a few items on my list this past weekend.

The D-Box deck is now screwed down to the aluminum platform. I velcroed the bound carpet to the plaftorm deck so it is easily removable.

I had some guests sitting in the front row (mostly kids) watching a movie with the D-Box platform in motion, I forget what movie it was, but everyone was reclined and it was so funny to see their feet literally get lifted up in the air during a movie scene!

I'll need to shoot some video and post it. It plays with your mind when you are sitting in the back row watching the entire front row move.


Back to construction, I finished cutting what could be, at least in Phase I, the final three pieces of wood for the theater. I used some baseboard inbetween the two door jambs to hide the seams . I only nailed to the theater side to keep the two walls decoupled.

Now I just need to putty and paint.











Both my FIL and I are not too happy with the floor paint. It seems like it's not drying and it remains tacky. I put a humidifier in the room to see if maybe it was too humid, but that wasn't the issue - it was around 37% humidity. We took a piece and put it outside to bake in the sun and brought it back in and it was still tacky.
I remember the first coat even being a little sticky even after a month later. So I'm not sure if we got a bad batch or what. But we're going to see if we get another quart if it does the same thing. I may have to call Benjamin Moore to see if they have any ideas.


----------



## Owen Bartley

Mario, it looks incredible. Really fantastic work, you should be very proud of this room. I can't wait to see the pics of the star ceiling when you get them posted.


----------



## mcascio

Here's a photo of Jeff's mural.

I ended up taking two separate photos. 
One with some lights on and one with no lights on and then merged the two in Photoshop. If I didn't you wouldn't get a perspective of the seats in the room and would only see stars in a black room.


----------



## Owen Bartley

Really cool. I bet it feels just like you're looking out a giant skylight into the actual night sky! Do you have to have the UV lights on to see the stars, or do they just charge up the luminous paint. If the latter, how long does the paint glow reasonably well with a full charge?


----------



## mcascio

Owen Bartley said:


> Really cool. I bet it feels just like you're looking out a giant skylight into the actual night sky! Do you have to have the UV lights on to see the stars, or do they just charge up the luminous paint. If the latter, how long does the paint glow reasonably well with a full charge?


You definitely need the black lights on during a movie if you want to see them. When the scenes go dark you can see them though.

I'm not sure how long the charge lasts yet, I honestly haven't had a chance to do any testing yet. But I think it will last through the movie.


----------



## mcascio

Hey Everyone.

I finally got around to posting a video of the D-Box motion platform in action:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SIxtzX_fznk&feature=youtu.be


----------



## Rokkar

That's awesome! So cool. Thanks for posting it.

Rok


----------



## Prof.

WOW!! they really do rock around!! :yikes: I was almost vomiting just watching them..little alone actually sitting in them!! :rofl:


----------



## erwinbel

Airbus uses this as a flight simulator:devil:


----------



## raZorTT

WOW Mario!!! I just read through your entire build thread :T

Congratulations on such a stunning result!! I'm a big fan of your colour scheme 

Cheers
Simon


----------



## mcascio

Rokkar said:


> That's awesome! So cool. Thanks for posting it.
> 
> Rok


You bet.


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> WOW!! they really do rock around!! :yikes: I was almost vomiting just watching them..little alone actually sitting in them!! :rofl:


Yeah....I have to make sure everyone sitting there doesn't have full drinks because they will spill!


----------



## mcascio

erwinbel said:


> Airbus uses this as a flight simulator:devil:


I thought I saw someone on the internet using DBox as a flight simulator. Not sure where your link was specifically directed to though.


----------



## mcascio

raZorTT said:


> WOW Mario!!! I just read through your entire build thread :T
> 
> Congratulations on such a stunning result!! I'm a big fan of your colour scheme
> 
> Cheers
> Simon


Thanks Simon. You must have had a lot of free time to read the entire thread in a sitting. 

I appreciate the compliments.


----------



## KGBSteve

That is one seriously wicked room. Probably my favorite that I've seen so far. Great design, congrats


----------



## mcascio

KGBSteve said:


> That is one seriously wicked room. Probably my favorite that I've seen so far. Great design, congrats


Wow. I really appreciate that. And thanks for making your first post here.


----------



## mcascio

Here are some pics of the theater that remind me of some of my earlier renders. I shot these from a ladder.


----------



## HTB2015

I mean.....I've seen people try and replicate what they have designed using software but.....this is sick, man! You're a human CNC machine. :clap:
I have a couple of questions: The first post you made said the steps are 5.75" so that means rear seating and front seating have a height diff. of about 1ft. How is that working for you? And I'm assuming that when the DBox platform twists and turns it decreases the height diff. slightly. 
Also, do you have extensive experience with the software you used to design this amazing theater or can a beginner to the software do this easily?


----------



## mcascio

HTB2015 said:


> I mean.....I've seen people try and replicate what they have designed using software but.....this is sick, man! You're a human CNC machine. :clap:
> I have a couple of questions: The first post you made said the steps are 5.75" so that means rear seating and front seating have a height diff. of about 1ft. How is that working for you? And I'm assuming that when the DBox platform twists and turns it decreases the height diff. slightly.
> Also, do you have extensive experience with the software you used to design this amazing theater or can a beginner to the software do this easily?


Thanks.

Yes - the 11.5" difference has worked out perfect. I did some initial tests before construction even started with my seats. Because of the drop down in the theater, I could have had a larger difference if desired. 

My goal was to clear the first row heads, but also strike a balance with the head positioning of the screen. The further I dropped the front row, the lower their viewing experience would be on the screen.

The distance does change when the DBox is on, but it's minor.

I do have a long history of using Newtek's LW3D software. I used to use it commercially / making money, but now mostly use it for personal use. Every now and then I'll use it for making graphics that get incorporated into our touch screen user interfaces or create some animated buttons.


----------



## mcascio

Back by popular demand...here's a composite 3D render with a photo with the chairs included.


There is an angled divider. The left upper is real and the right lower is 3D.


----------



## Dotball

mcascio said:


> Back by popular demand...here's a composite 3D render with a photo with the chairs included.
> 
> 
> There is an angled divider. The left upper is real and the right lower is 3D.


"The left upper is real and the right lower is 3D." If you look closely enough you can actually pick it from the texture of the chairs.

I have to say I think the real thing looks better than the 3D render. The colors are richer and smoother, just beautiful.

Mario, that is one seriously nice HT you have there. It would be a joy to experience.

Cheers,


----------



## Owen Bartley

Unbelievable. I think this must be the closest from plan to final result that has ever been built. I was thinking the same thing, Dotball, the real life view definitely looks richer. But man are they close! What blows me away the most is the lighting. LW must have some incredible rendering for lights, because they look absolutely real.


----------



## mcascio

Dotball said:


> "The left upper is real and the right lower is 3D." If you look closely enough you can actually pick it from the texture of the chairs.
> 
> I have to say I think the real thing looks better than the 3D render. The colors are richer and smoother, just beautiful.
> 
> Mario, that is one seriously nice HT you have there. It would be a joy to experience.
> 
> Cheers,


Thanks. I'd agree with you. The 3D certainly provided a great reference tool to get me to the end result. I've been extremely lucky in that respect to be able to design it in 3D. I feel sorry for guys that have to do it any other way or even without real plans. It certainly made my job easier.


----------



## mcascio

Owen Bartley said:


> Unbelievable. I think this must be the closest from plan to final result that has ever been built. I was thinking the same thing, Dotball, the real life view definitely looks richer. But man are they close! What blows me away the most is the lighting. LW must have some incredible rendering for lights, because they look absolutely real.


Owen. Thanks again. Back in this thread, I remeber spending time and questioning how many lights to use in the room. The software helped tremendously. LW3D was able to import some of the can light settings (I had to track them down from the manufacturer) which accurately produces the angle at which the light exits the can. So you actually get a pretty true representation of where shadows hit.


----------



## mcascio

I finally got around to installing the color changing LED strip lighting under the stairs. By design, you don't actually see the LED's blasting you in the eye due to them being recessed.

I used the same HitLights Led strips that I used in the soffit tray.

I had to order a variety of their splitters and adapters to make it all work and cut them to length. I had to cover two steps on both sides since I just wanted to deal with one power supply and one IR emitter. I'll be emulating the remote control within MainLobby.

I think it turned out pretty good and will put me at ease especially when there are older people or kids going in / out of the room. It's pitch black in the room when the projector is off or goes to a really dark scene. 

The red color is one of my favorites since it matches the fabric and also produces less ambient light in the room. 

TIP: If you get the LED remote with the DIY buttons on them, you can get them to dim lower than what the remote allows you to by just selecting a color then hitting DIM. Just hit the DIY# button, then use the UP/DOWN arrows for each of the three available colors. I found this gets you a lower level light setting especially when using brighter colors like white or blue where even the dimmest setting is too bright.














































As a side note. My FIL painted another coat of the Benjamin Moore floor paint on a section of the bullnose. It seemed to dry much better than the first can we used. So maybe we just got an old can or bad batch. So we've got one more coat yet to go.


----------



## ALMFamily

Wow - those turned out really well Mario. I agree on the color choice - blends in so well with the rest of the room.


----------



## Prof.

Very nice Mario..:T I had the same problem with my LED strips..They are great in the soffit lighting, but when you set them up closer to where you would be walking, they can be a bit over powering! 

I've also set up my new LED lighting to glow blue while the blu-ray is loading..otherwise it's a bit hard on the eyes in a completely dark room with all the flashes of light that occurs while the disc is loading..


----------



## HTip

I find it hard to know if I'm looking at a render or real photo. They look so much a like.

Either way, your room looks really great. Probably the most precise DIY build HT on the planet. Respect!! :TT


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Very nice Mario..:T I had the same problem with my LED strips..They are great in the soffit lighting, but when you set them up closer to where you would be walking, they can be a bit over powering!
> 
> I've also set up my new LED lighting to glow blue while the blu-ray is loading..otherwise it's a bit hard on the eyes in a completely dark room with all the flashes of light that occurs while the disc is loading..


Yeah. If I have them on bright blue or white, they are too much. But I liked the blue as well at it's dimmest setting. Fortunately they are enough to the side of the front row that it's not that distracting while the movie is playing. I still may work in the motion sensor and turn them on only when motion is detected in the room...but that can be tricky too. For parties, people are going in and out of the room so it would be more annoying with them turning off and on. 

Boy, in hind sight, I should have put some floor sensor's underneath the platform so they turned on as you walked towards them.


----------



## mcascio

ALMFamily said:


> Wow - those turned out really well Mario. I agree on the color choice - blends in so well with the rest of the room.


Thanks. They definitely put me at ease with both the younger kids and older adults with a beverage in their hand.


----------



## mcascio

HTip said:


> I find it hard to know if I'm looking at a render or real photo. They look so much a like.
> 
> Either way, your room looks really great. Probably the most precise DIY build HT on the planet. Respect!! :TT


Don't feel bad. I find myself having trouble at times too!


----------



## Rokkar

Hi Mario,

The red LED looks fantastic. Are the HitLights Led strips dimmable?

Thanks,
Rok


----------



## mcascio

Rokkar said:


> Hi Mario,
> 
> The red LED looks fantastic. Are the HitLights Led strips dimmable?
> 
> Thanks,
> Rok


Hi Rok,

Thanks. The HitLights come with an ir remote control for dimming. If you want to dim with an electrical switch you'll probably need to purchase some additional hardware from them.


----------



## Rokkar

Ok great. I forgot to also ask, is there a UV LED color in that color changing strip/remote to get your star ceiling to charge? Or is this a separate LED strip?

Thanks!
Rok


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> Yeah. If I have them on bright blue or white, they are too much. But I liked the blue as well at it's dimmest setting. Fortunately they are enough to the side of the front row that it's not that distracting while the movie is playing. I still may work in the motion sensor and turn them on only when motion is detected in the room...but that can be tricky too. For parties, people are going in and out of the room so it would be more annoying with them turning off and on.
> 
> Boy, in hind sight, I should have put some floor sensor's underneath the platform so they turned on as you walked towards them.


Yeah, motion sensors can be a bit too much and as you say it would be continually going on and off..
Another way of doing it is to use an IR sensor beam..
http://www.bircheramerica.com/automatic-door/beam-sensors.htm

When you walk through the beam, it sends a signal and activates whatever device you want it to..
It could be operated in a manner that it disconnects once the movie starts, so your not distracted by it when someone enters or leaves the room..


----------



## mcascio

Rokkar said:


> Ok great. I forgot to also ask, is there a UV LED color in that color changing strip/remote to get your star ceiling to charge? Or is this a separate LED strip?
> 
> Thanks!
> Rok


I installed separate black lights to charge the stars.


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Yeah, motion sensors can be a bit too much and as you say it would be continually going on and off..
> Another way of doing it is to use an IR sensor beam..
> http://www.bircheramerica.com/automatic-door/beam-sensors.htm
> 
> When you walk through the beam, it sends a signal and activates whatever device you want it to..
> It could be operated in a manner that it disconnects once the movie starts, so your not distracted by it when someone enters or leaves the room..


Yeah. I thought about that....but I don't think I have the wiring in place.

I think my best strategy is going to have that configuration screen that allows me to turn them on when the movie starts or only when the movie is paused.

When I have visitors going in/out freely leaving them on is the best route. But when it's just me, when the movie is paused or over is nice. And then I can use the insteon keypad to turn everything off as I leave the room.


----------



## mcascio

With the D-Box being a big part of the theater, I wanted myself and visitors to have the ability to see which movies are supported. I think there are just about a 1,000 titles coded to date.


So we recently modified DVDLobby to support displaying some custom fields while browsing your collection.

So for each movie that supports the D-Box, I can now show the D-Box logo over the cover art. I still have to go through my collection and tag each movie as a D-Box title, but you get the idea.










We've also added a few new variables that get populated when you play a movie which will include start time and end time. This will come in handy for the virtual movie poster.


----------



## Rokkar

Mario, you could have stopped at "Abduction" starring Taylor Lautner. 

What more mind blowing action does one really need.


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> Yeah. I thought about that....but I don't think I have the wiring in place.
> 
> I think my best strategy is going to have that configuration screen that allows me to turn them on when the movie starts or only when the movie is paused.
> 
> When I have visitors going in/out freely leaving them on is the best route. But when it's just me, when the movie is paused or over is nice. And then I can use the insteon keypad to turn everything off as I leave the room.


With my Harmony One remote, I can set up a macro sequence which went activated can pause the movie and switch on any desired lighting for when I need to leave the room..and when I press play again, the lights go out..
No additional wiring needed..That might be your best and simplest solution..


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> With the D-Box being a big part of the theater, I wanted myself and visitors to have the ability to see which movies are supported. I think there are just about a 1,000 titles coded to date.
> 
> 
> So we recently modified DVDLobby to support displaying some custom fields while browsing your collection.
> 
> So for each movie that supports the D-Box, I can now show the D-Box logo over the cover art. I still have to go through my collection and tag each movie as a D-Box title, but you get the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We've also added a few new variables that get populated when you play a movie which will include start time and end time. This will come in handy for the virtual movie poster.


 :T


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> With my Harmony One remote, I can set up a macro sequence which went activated can pause the movie and switch on any desired lighting for when I need to leave the room..and when I press play again, the lights go out..
> No additional wiring needed..That might be your best and simplest solution..


Yeah. Mine gets a little more complicated because I want to build logic into the room so I can easily turn features on or off. In the end, it will send out an IR code, but based upon what I have setup in MLServer, it will then turn on/off any of the leds as desired.

For some reason, I like to make things overly complex.


----------



## mcascio

So I've got a working virtual movie poster now that dynamically updates.

Here's how it works, once you select the movie from MainLobby for the dedicated movie player for the theater, the movie poster is instantly displayed on the Virtual Movie Poster LED.

The Start and End Time's are automatically calculated.

I also display the rating, year, aspect ratio and run time. 

There's still a lot more I'd like to do but due to time constraints it'll have to wait. I'd like to add some light sheens to the movie poster soon though to help draw the eye to the screen. It would also be really easy to scroll the synopsis along the bottom. It definitely deserves some movement to take advantage of the technology.










Here's another look at it since the photo doesn't quite do it justice.


----------



## HTip

Prof. said:


> With my Harmony One remote, I can set up a macro sequence which went activated can pause the movie and switch on any desired lighting for when I need to leave the room..and when I press play again, the lights go out..
> No additional wiring needed..That might be your best and simplest solution..


That's exactly how I do it too. I also put the projector on video mute and virtually anything else I would want to do 

BTW, I really like the DVDLobby and dynamic now playing posters. Very professional :T


----------



## paulster

Wow, that's a seriously inspiring build, Mario!

I'll be going back over this and making notes of the tips and tricks, because this covers pretty much everything one might want to do with a theatre!


----------



## camsauce

Mario - Fantastic theater! I registered for the forum so I could drop some well deserved kudos to you and hopefully ask a couple questions.

I'm currently in the planning phases of a new home construction and will likely shamelessly borrow from some of your ideas. The sunken floor was a great idea -- I'm assuming this was intentional from the start? If you were do it all over again would you stick with the 23" height? Was this very costly to do and were there any plumbing/drain considerations? Any dimensions or other aspects of the room that you would have changed in hindsight?


----------



## camsauce

One other question that popped into my head just now - I saw that you went with the whisper clips, did you also use Quiet Rock or is it standard 5/8" drywall?


----------



## ALMFamily

camsauce said:


> One other question that popped into my head just now - I saw that you went with the whisper clips, did you also use Quiet Rock or is it standard 5/8" drywall?


Pretty sure he went with standard sheetrock - Quiet Rock is pretty steep in cost compared to 2 sheets of drywall and some Green Glue.


----------



## mcascio

HTip said:


> That's exactly how I do it too. I also put the projector on video mute and virtually anything else I would want to do
> 
> BTW, I really like the DVDLobby and dynamic now playing posters. Very professional :T



Thanks HTip. I'll be refining the Virtual Movie Poster over time.


----------



## mcascio

paulster said:


> Wow, that's a seriously inspiring build, Mario!
> 
> I'll be going back over this and making notes of the tips and tricks, because this covers pretty much everything one might want to do with a theatre!


Great to hear Paulster.

I'm glad you'll find some useful information in the thread.


----------



## mcascio

camsauce said:


> Mario - Fantastic theater! I registered for the forum so I could drop some well deserved kudos to you and hopefully ask a couple questions.
> 
> I'm currently in the planning phases of a new home construction and will likely shamelessly borrow from some of your ideas. The sunken floor was a great idea -- I'm assuming this was intentional from the start? If you were do it all over again would you stick with the 23" height? Was this very costly to do and were there any plumbing/drain considerations? Any dimensions or other aspects of the room that you would have changed in hindsight?


Thanks for the compliments and I'm honored to be your first post.

Great questions.

Yes. I did intentionally sink the floor down during construction of the home. At the time, it was an additional $1500. Super cheap compared to doing it later. In my case, 11.5" was all that was needed to separate the two rows for comfortable viewing but that really depends on where your screen falls (lots of moving parts). But I also had the D-Box which is sunken into the floor. 23" was probably 5" too low, but it actually worked out for me. In the event of a flood (since the theater is the lowest area of the foundation), it won't reach the expensive D-Box actuators until it's gotten really bad. But I had a back up sump, alarms, house generator installed to prevent this from hopefully ever happening. Ironically, my house generator recently stopped working due to a hose that worked itself loose. So even with everything in place...things can and will go wrong.

Because of the lower theater, the sump probably runs more often than if I didn't dig the theater down. Because it sits lower in the water table.

When I dug down, I positioned the first row as if the screen was going against the wall. But I hadn't thought of an acoustically transparent screen 8 years ago. Not sure if they even around. So I lost about 14" to fit the speakers behind the screen....this made the front row closer than I would have liked...but it's still a nice experience. So I probably would have changed the drop down dimensions to allow me to push the front row back into the room further. Plus you can always fur out the wall with 2x4's. I also didn't plan for how much space is lost during sound proofing. You easily start loosing inches or even a foot in some areas.

Hope that helps.


----------



## mcascio

camsauce said:


> One other question that popped into my head just now - I saw that you went with the whisper clips, did you also use Quiet Rock or is it standard 5/8" drywall?


I've heard don't waste your money on Quiet Rock. Double 5/8" Drywall and Green Glue.

Although I'd highly recommend using OSB for the first layer. This made installation of everything within the room easy. Especially when you are hanging crown...no need to find a stud since the whole room has OSB behind it.


----------



## Prof.

Love the LED program display..Very Pro. looking! :TT


----------



## HTB2015

Mario,

Did you decide against the bar table and stools behind the seating area?


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Love the LED program display..Very Pro. looking! :TT


Thanks as usual!!!


----------



## mcascio

HTB2015 said:


> Mario,
> 
> Did you decide against the bar table and stools behind the seating area?


Yeah. At least I'm not putting in anything permanent. We're hosting a Packer party this Sunday so I'll see how things go.

I'm probably going to bring in some extra bar stools for behind the back row. Eventually I want to see if I can find some smaller black pub tables too.


----------



## NotBananas

Mario,
I've been following your project with awe for many months! A thought had come to me (first one today): What will you do if you ever decide to sell your house?

One of the tricks I found regarding subwoofers is to have as many as you can. I originally started out with just one Velodyne 15". It wasn't enough. Then I added two more 10" Velodynes. It still didn't give me the "punch" I experienced in theaters. Then I added six more 10" for a total of eight 10" (two in each corner) and the one original 15". These are all self powered and driven by my receivers single subwoofer RCA cable output split 9 ways to each subwoofer. You should hear the amazing difference it makes. 
The theory of subwoofers is that it has to move a lot of air at low frequencies. Even a single 15" speaker just can't move enough air to create the effect I was looking for. As I kept adding each 10" subwoofer, their combined movement of a tremendous amount of air made the difference. Obviously they are all in phase, so the sound pressure it creates is accumulative. Another advantage of a 10" subwoofer is that it can respond super fast to the signal since the voice coil doesn't have as much mass to move as a 15" speaker.

BTW, you can see my HT at another thread:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...processors/51906-sharp-aquos-80-led-tv-2.html

You also gave me inspiration to complete my Cinemar setup I bought a few months ago (no time).


----------



## mcascio

NotBananas said:


> Mario,
> I've been following your project with awe for many months! A thought had come to me (first one today): What will you do if you ever decide to sell your house?
> 
> One of the tricks I found regarding subwoofers is to have as many as you can. I originally started out with just one Velodyne 15". It wasn't enough. Then I added two more 10" Velodynes. It still didn't give me the "punch" I experienced in theaters. Then I added six more 10" for a total of eight 10" (two in each corner) and the one original 15". These are all self powered and driven by my receivers single subwoofer RCA cable output split 9 ways to each subwoofer. You should hear the amazing difference it makes.
> The theory of subwoofers is that it has to move a lot of air at low frequencies. Even a single 15" speaker just can't move enough air to create the effect I was looking for. As I kept adding each 10" subwoofer, their combined movement of a tremendous amount of air made the difference. Obviously they are all in phase, so the sound pressure it creates is accumulative. Another advantage of a 10" subwoofer is that it can respond super fast to the signal since the voice coil doesn't have as much mass to move as a 15" speaker.
> 
> BTW, you can see my HT at another thread:
> http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...processors/51906-sharp-aquos-80-led-tv-2.html
> 
> You also gave me inspiration to complete my Cinemar setup I bought a few months ago (no time).


Thanks for chiming in.

If I decide to sell the house, the theater would be included. I'm certain I wouldn't recoup my investment but that's a fact of life. I shouldn't lose my shirt though given I did most of the labor.

I've put a lot into designing the house itself and setting it up for the future. So hopefully I'll never have to sell it.

Man - that's a lot of subwoofers. I definitely want to add some more and have everything in place to do that. Our house is about 8 years old now, so things are starting to fail. Everytime I spend $600-700 on a repair item, I think to myself....bummer, that could have gone towards the purchase of a new subwoofer.

I think the room sounds fantastic but I haven't done a lot of experiementation to find out if it can sound better. It's possible the D-Box is making up for some of the bass that may be lacking as well so I don't seem to notice it as much.

I'll have to check out your thread and see what you are up to.

Glad I could provide some inspiration!


----------



## mcascio

I took the projector down and tightened up the mount since it was loose. It seems to sit better now.

I'm also happy with the new Monoprice HDMI extender I added:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10110&cs_id=1011012&p_id=6532&seq=1&format=2

I don't see any drop outs now like I did with the older non-powered version. My run must have been too long. The only downside is the power is at the projector which is not ideal. But I've done my best to hide it above the projector.

Here's a photo I put together that I sent to friends with an invite for the Packer game this Sunday. I saw someone else on another forum do the same thing and thought it was really clever.


----------



## phillihp23

Mario,
You crack me up with your software program :rofl:


----------



## Homeincontrol

That pic is awesome, looks like somebody is having a good time!


----------



## Quijibo

It's been a while since I stopped in on your thread.
Just wanted to say, it turned out great. Lots of nice details, well planned and executed.


----------



## Gillig500

Mario, Kudos to a fabulous job . The theater room came out great well planned & well executed my friend .
Please enjoy the sweet fruits of your labor . Love the Packers pic hilarious ! . I'll definitely be in touch with you
in regards to Cinemar . Just been real busy at work . Once again great job .


----------



## Dale Rasco

Mario, absolutely incredible work!!!


----------



## mcascio

phillihp23 said:


> Mario,
> You crack me up with your software program :rofl:


Thanks. The party turned out great.


----------



## mcascio

Homeincontrol said:


> That pic is awesome, looks like somebody is having a good time!


Yeah. Although the first loss wasn't pretty for the Packers.


----------



## mcascio

Quijibo said:


> It's been a while since I stopped in on your thread.
> Just wanted to say, it turned out great. Lots of nice details, well planned and executed.



Thanks for checking back in. I appreciate the compliments.


----------



## mcascio

Gillig500 said:


> Mario, Kudos to a fabulous job . The theater room came out great well planned & well executed my friend .
> Please enjoy the sweet fruits of your labor . Love the Packers pic hilarious ! . I'll definitely be in touch with you
> in regards to Cinemar . Just been real busy at work . Once again great job .


Thanks so much.

I'd like to say I've watched tons of movies in it, but unfortunately I haven't spent a lot of time in there.

BTW, there's a big sale going on right now til the end of the month. Might be a good time to get your feet wet. We also just added drivers for the Oppo and the Dune HD players.


----------



## mcascio

Dale Rasco said:


> Mario, absolutely incredible work!!!


Thanks Dale. Much appreciated!


----------



## HTip

mcascio said:


> Thanks. The party turned out great.


I can imagine. Did it look anything like the picture?


----------



## mcascio

I snapped a few more pics today that I thought I'd post.


----------



## paulster

Awesome! It also answered one of the questions I had which is whether there's an iPad interface to the Cinemar products. Looks like a really good integrated system.


----------



## Prof.

The finished theatre looks fantastic Mario..:clap: :TT..Well I presume it's finished!!


----------



## HTip

Great job, Mario! :T It really looks perfect. I particurlarly like the dynamic "Now Playing" poster.

Are you satisfied with the picture, sound, etc.?


----------



## ALMFamily

It really turn out amazing Mario - all told, how long did the project take you?


----------



## mcascio

paulster said:


> Awesome! It also answered one of the questions I had which is whether there's an iPad interface to the Cinemar products. Looks like a really good integrated system.


Thanks Paulster.

There's a native iPad interface as well as another method that utilizes the SplashTop Remote App.

We watched Avengers in the theater last Tuesday and I had inquired if anyone was warm. Someone said a little, I pulled out my phone and turned on the air from the MainLobby interface. My friend said, "You've got to be kidding me."


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> The finished theatre looks fantastic Mario..:clap: :TT..Well I presume it's finished!!


Thanks Prof. I still need to tweak the audio and room acoustics.


----------



## mcascio

HTip said:


> Great job, Mario! :T It really looks perfect. I particurlarly like the dynamic "Now Playing" poster.
> 
> Are you satisfied with the picture, sound, etc.?


Thanks HTip.

I think the picture looks great. I'm sure it could be even better though with a higher end projector.

It feels like the room is lacking bass and possibly liveliness. I'll need to add another sub to the room.

Will room measurements assist with with determining if the room is too dead?

My columns are still hollow, so I need to add some OC703 inside them or at least fill them with insulation.


----------



## mcascio

ALMFamily said:


> It really turn out amazing Mario - all told, how long did the project take you?



Thanks. It looks like it was around 14 months from the start of construction until the majority of the project was completed -- aside from some smaller non-essential items that I'll probably be tweaking until the end of time.


----------



## HTB2015

Mario, it looks great! What would you say was the hardest part? I'm guessing the curved woodworking?, that looked pretty involved.


----------



## NotBananas

Mario,
I had the same problem with bass effect. My HT system lacked the punch a movie theater has. I solved the problem by adding 8 (yes, eight) 15" active subwoofers with their own built in amps over a period of years (started out with only one). Two in each corner stacked, facing at a 45 degree angle towards the viewer, thus using the room walls to reinforce the bass. These are front facing speakers (not downfacing, it makes a difference) which are the Velodyne CT-150's. Took me a while to find 8 over a period of many years.These are all driven by the subwoofer output of my receiver's RCA jacks that are split with many two way adapters, with a long run to each corner and then splitting again for the two subwoofers.
It made all the difference in the world for an "earthshaking" experience! The idea is that you have to move a lot of air to make it feel like you are in the theater. I'd bet even 12" or 10" subs will work if you get enough of them to move a lot of air.


----------



## dguarnaccia

+1 on more woofage. I have 4 18" cones moving air, and it's never enough..I want 4 more!  The CHT subs are a bargain for the output the deliver, but I'm sure you could easily DIY with your amazing woodworking skills.


----------



## HTip

mcascio said:


> Thanks HTip.
> 
> I think the picture looks great. I'm sure it could be even better though with a higher end projector.
> 
> It feels like the room is lacking bass and possibly liveliness. I'll need to add another sub to the room.
> 
> Will room measurements assist with with determining if the room is too dead?
> 
> My columns are still hollow, so I need to add some OC703 inside them or at least fill them with insulation.


I missed your question Mario. Sorry!

Room measurements will definitely help you to determine whatever acoustic problem you might have. I started with one in a almost bare room, then took the needed acoustic measures and did one more to see what areas were still troubled or not. I ended up doing 3 measurements in total and the result is stunning.

The answer to an acoustic problem is never easy or straightforward. Adding more subs might be the solution, but then again maybe not. Integrating more subs in the sound is much more difficult than only one powerful sub. The problem with bass is standing waves which can eliminate bass in one place and overpower in another.

To add more liveliness you might consider diffusion in stead of absorption. I applied this to the first reflection points of my fronts.

One this forum you can find the REW-tool and the experts to point you in the right direction when you post the graphs. It is quite easy to execute a measurement, but reading the graphs and decide what you should do is not.

One the projector side, if you don't need/want 3D I definately can recommend a JVC RS25. It's the high-end projector from 3 years ago and I just had it calibrated with 740 hours and the picture still looks stunning. In my thread you can see the result. If you can get one for a nice price (MSRP was $7999), don't hesitate.


----------



## mcascio

HTB2015 said:


> Mario, it looks great! What would you say was the hardest part? I'm guessing the curved woodworking?, that looked pretty involved.


Thanks.

Great question. I think the most difficult part was just finding the materials needed. Countless trips to the hardware store and lumber yards. Half the time they only had a few of what you needed so I'd have to make a trip to the next closest store for more.

I also dreaded working with 4x8 sheets of 3/4" MDF. Loading and unloading those was a back breaker by myself.

I was never good at ripping the harder wood, but I think it came down to the table saw being inadequate.


Actually, cutting along the curve was easy...but that assumes your curve was accurate. Fortunately for me I don't recall messing up. I found just trying to stay in the middle of the line provided good results. Take your time, take breaks to cool the blade, keep the cutting area clear of debris and you'll do fine.


----------



## pyrohusband

I must say... I have taken the time to go through this thread and read up on your build. I am truly amazed at what you have done. I am just an enthusiast that hopes to build a theatre at some time. and you have given me inspiration and a high bar to reach for.


----------



## mcascio

NotBananas said:


> Mario,
> I had the same problem with bass effect. My HT system lacked the punch a movie theater has. I solved the problem by adding 8 (yes, eight) 15" active subwoofers with their own built in amps over a period of years (started out with only one). Two in each corner stacked, facing at a 45 degree angle towards the viewer, thus using the room walls to reinforce the bass. These are front facing speakers (not downfacing, it makes a difference) which are the Velodyne CT-150's. Took me a while to find 8 over a period of many years.These are all driven by the subwoofer output of my receiver's RCA jacks that are split with many two way adapters, with a long run to each corner and then splitting again for the two subwoofers.
> It made all the difference in the world for an "earthshaking" experience! The idea is that you have to move a lot of air to make it feel like you are in the theater. I'd bet even 12" or 10" subs will work if you get enough of them to move a lot of air.


Now that's a lot of subs. I could see where that would make for an "earthshaking" experience.

However, it may nullify all the sound proofing I did with that many subs. 

I did just order an HSU VTF-15H. I liquidated some older equipment to help justify the purchase. 

It'll just fit in the front corner cabinets (left/right). Thank goodness I modified my plan to fit that size sub.

I can also squeeze the same size sub in each of the corners in the back of the room. I might even try the sub in the back of the room by the patch panel first to see how the M&K MX-350 in the front center and the HSU VTF-15H rear sound together.


----------



## mcascio

dguarnaccia said:


> +1 on more woofage. I have 4 18" cones moving air, and it's never enough..I want 4 more!  The CHT subs are a bargain for the output the deliver, but I'm sure you could easily DIY with your amazing woodworking skills.


I'm reluctant to go DIY at the moment. I think I want to buy one that is highly rated first (So I just bought the HSU VTF-15H) and then at least if I go the DIY route, I'll have something to compare my build to. Otherwise I'll always wonder if it could sound better.


----------



## mcascio

HTip said:


> I missed your question Mario. Sorry!
> 
> Room measurements will definitely help you to determine whatever acoustic problem you might have. I started with one in a almost bare room, then took the needed acoustic measures and did one more to see what areas were still troubled or not. I ended up doing 3 measurements in total and the result is stunning.
> 
> The answer to an acoustic problem is never easy or straightforward. Adding more subs might be the solution, but then again maybe not. Integrating more subs in the sound is much more difficult than only one powerful sub. The problem with bass is standing waves which can eliminate bass in one place and overpower in another.
> 
> To add more liveliness you might consider diffusion in stead of absorption. I applied this to the first reflection points of my fronts.
> 
> One this forum you can find the REW-tool and the experts to point you in the right direction when you post the graphs. It is quite easy to execute a measurement, but reading the graphs and decide what you should do is not.
> 
> One the projector side, if you don't need/want 3D I definately can recommend a JVC RS25. It's the high-end projector from 3 years ago and I just had it calibrated with 740 hours and the picture still looks stunning. In my thread you can see the result. If you can get one for a nice price (MSRP was $7999), don't hesitate.


Thanks for the information. This is an area I'd like to learn more about. I'd like to keep my eyes peeled for good deals on the hardware I'll need to perform these tests. Any recommendation as far as what I"ll need to purchase to perform these tests? Pardon my ignorance, but I have yet to dig into this area.


----------



## mcascio

pyrohusband said:


> I must say... I have taken the time to go through this thread and read up on your build. I am truly amazed at what you have done. I am just an enthusiast that hopes to build a theatre at some time. and you have given me inspiration and a high bar to reach for.


Hi pyrohusband,

Thanks for tuning in to this thread. I started out as an enthusiast as well. So beware. 

Hopefully this shows what someone with little to no experience in carpentry can do. The internet and forums are a great resource to learn from. Hopefully this thread will provide enough details that you don't have to do as much research as I did.


----------



## Owen Bartley

mcascio said:


> I'm reluctant to go DIY at the moment. I think I want to buy one that is highly rated first (So I just bought the HSU VTF-15H) and then at least if I go the DIY route, I'll have something to compare my build to. Otherwise I'll always wonder if it could sound better.


Mario, I have no doubt whatsoever that if you put your mind to building a sub, you would end up with one of the better ones on the forums. With the woodworking and technical skills you have shown on the theatre build, a sub would be a piece of cake. There are lots of people in the DIY forum who will be able to help with driver selection, enclosure parameters, etc. etc. which would point you in the right direction.

See how your HSU works out, and then if you decide you want to take on another project (and take up some more floor area), just start a project thread and ask for advice. You'll be in good hands.


----------



## mcascio

Thanks Owen. I'm confident I could do the construction, but doing it the proper way with all the right components is my concern and just requires time and research. I'll see how things go with the HSU like you said. As usual though, this forum is a great resource to learn and figure it out.


----------



## HTip

mcascio said:


> Thanks for the information. This is an area I'd like to learn more about. I'd like to keep my eyes peeled for good deals on the hardware I'll need to perform these tests. Any recommendation as far as what I"ll need to purchase to perform these tests? Pardon my ignorance, but I have yet to dig into this area.


No need for that  I knew nothing about acoustics, projectors, ISF, HAA, etc. when I started my built.

To use REW to perform a simple test all you need is a SPL-meter, an audio cable and a computer (preferrably a laptop) with REW installed on it. When you want a more accurate measurement you could use a external soundcard with a calibrated microphone connected to it.

See the REW section on this forum for more information. Specifically these threads:

REW Forum
REW Sound Card Database
REW Cabling and Connection Basics

Good luck!


----------



## mcascio

Thanks HTip,

I ordered the following items yesterday from Parts-Express.

1	242-743 JAMSTANDS JS-MCTB200 TRIPOD MIC STAND W/TELESCOPING BOOM
1	248-574 BEHRINGER XENYX 502 MIXER 5-INPUT 2-BUS
12	260-770 PENN-ELCOM F1686 RUBBER CABINET FOOT 1.57" DIA. X 0.61" H
1	390-801 DAYTON AUDIO EMM-6 ELECTRET MEASUREMENT MICROPHONE
1	241-348 DAYTON AUDIO CMX-25K XLR MICROPHONE CABLE 25 FT. BLACK


I'm planning on building a 3/4" thick platform the size of the HSU sub and putting the Rubber Cabinet feet underneath it. Then set the HSU sub on top of the platform to help decouple it. This will also make it easier to get in/out of my front cabinet.


----------



## HTip

Wow, you move fast! Impressive setup, so now al you need is the cables to connect the Behringer mixer with your PC/laptop.


----------



## mcascio

HTip said:


> Wow, you move fast! Impressive setup, so now al you need is the cables to connect the Behringer mixer with your PC/laptop.


Thanks. I have a bunch of cables I've acquired over the years so I think I'll have everything I need.

How do I know if my sound card is good enough to work with REW? I'm actually planning to use an older HP TouchSmart Vista PC which has analog stereo inputs and outputs.


----------



## mcascio

Here are some pictures of the room EQ hardware that arrived. I haven't had a chance to do any measurements yet though.


----------



## HTip

mcascio said:


> Thanks. I have a bunch of cables I've acquired over the years so I think I'll have everything I need.
> 
> How do I know if my sound card is good enough to work with REW? I'm actually planning to use an older HP TouchSmart Vista PC which has analog stereo inputs and outputs.


Hard to say. I think it more or less depends on you being satisfied with the results. To be sure you can always add a external USB sound card.


----------



## HTip

mcascio said:


> Here are some pictures of the room EQ hardware that arrived. I haven't had a chance to do any measurements yet though.


Equipment looks good. I would recommend to place the microphone in a 45 degree angle at ear height. You can repeat the measurement for every seat and combine them all to find the best overall solution.


----------



## mcascio

I ended up ordering a USB sound card. I couldn't get REW to recognize any of the other inputs except the mic builtin to the PC. There was no mic input on the pc after all, but I thought at least one of the pairs of the analog stereo audio inputs would have worked.

You mentioned 45 degree angle at ear height? I thought I read somewhere to place it straight up and down. Or maybe that was for the Audyssey mic. Do you point it toward the front speakers then if at a 45 degree angle?


----------



## HTip

mcascio said:


> I ended up ordering a USB sound card. I couldn't get REW to recognize any of the other inputs except the mic builtin to the PC. There was no mic input on the pc after all, but I thought at least one of the pairs of the analog stereo audio inputs would have worked.


Normally a line input should work. But I guess in your case it didn't. A USB sound card is therefore a good idea.



> You mentioned 45 degree angle at ear height? I thought I read somewhere to place it straight up and down. Or maybe that was for the Audyssey mic. Do you point it toward the front speakers then if at a 45 degree angle?


The opinions differ in that respect. But a professional who performed the measurement explained why but also depends on the type and quality of the microphone. Anyway, the mic should be pointed to the fronts.

I looked for a few pictures of my measurements, both for acoustics and setting up the EQ/DSP of my Velodyne sub.



















BTW, it's not me on that last picture


----------



## mcascio

I'm finally getting around to posting some pictures of the HSU VTF-15H sub that arrived. I had a chance to unbox it this past weekend. They really pack that thing well.
As of now, it's sitting in the cubby next to my patch panel (not shown in any of these pictures). I wanted to get some room measurements there before I place it in the front corner cabinet. It's so large I'll probably need some help getting it in the cabinet. I'm hoping the results will be better in the front cabinet since that's the ideal location.

I did do a test fit in the back corner of the room. When designing the room I made sure that this particular sub would fit in the corner and made sure to accomodate for the base board moulding and chair rail depth. It fits snugly in there...but again, I could see small kids getting their hands on it and/or bumping into it. 




























































































I also built two custom subdude stands for two subs. I moved my M&K MX-350 into the right corner and onto one of these stands. I used some left-over 3/4" MDF and some rubber feet I bought from Parts-Express.


----------



## Harold Dale

Wow incredible build with very detailed information throughout! I hope someday I can have a room similar. 

I love how you did the star ceiling as it's a much more economical solution to the fiber optic system.


----------



## HTip

Impressive looking sub, Mario. I had the same issue with my 18" sub. It could barely fit through the door and the weight was enormous. Why do you think the best place for the sub is in the cabinet?


----------



## mcascio

Harold Dale said:


> Wow incredible build with very detailed information throughout! I hope someday I can have a room similar.
> 
> I love how you did the star ceiling as it's a much more economical solution to the fiber optic system.


Thanks.

The painted star ceiling is a great alternative and can be done even after the theater is completed when the budget permits.

I've found that it provides a nice ambient light when I turn on the black lights during the movies along with the step lights. Plus you can see the stars during the movie.


----------



## mcascio

HTip said:


> Impressive looking sub, Mario. I had the same issue with my 18" sub. It could barely fit through the door and the weight was enormous. Why do you think the best place for the sub is in the cabinet?


Thanks. 

According to HSU, they recommended the two front corners would be good for the subs. But aside from that I would prefer it there since it's out of sight and not in the way.

Measurements may however prove otherwise. If it's a small difference, I'd still opt to put it hidden in the corner.


----------



## mcascio

A bit off topic. I took on a small project this weekend using some scrap material left over from the theater.

I've been wanting to convert my shuffleboard table into a buffet table. We'd been using the back bar area but it just wasn't enough room when we entertain for things like the Superbowl and have a lot of dishes.

Initially I was going to build a complete cover using some type or wood or mdf and then wrap it with some type of vinyl. Research found that the vinyl wouldn't be a good idea for hot dishes. So my Dad gave me the idea to use two 6' plastic tables which we already had.

So I built these supports to fit snuggly inside the table.


















Then I stapled some grippy tool box liners all around the supports to keep them from scratching the shuffleboard table and to keep the plastic tables in place.











I'll now be able to fit two tables perfectly on top of the shuffleboard table. I'll add a table cloth to dress it up.










The tables are about a 3/4" shorter than the shuffleboard table width, so I'm going to add a 3/4" stop on the wall side of the supports so it makes it easier for me to just set the tables on top and align them perfectly each time. I thought someone else with a shuffleboard may want to do the same.


----------



## phillihp23

mcascio said:


> I also built two custom subdude stands for two subs. I moved my M&K MX-350 into the right corner and onto one of these stands. I used some left-over 3/4" MDF and some rubber feet I bought from Parts-Express.


What do the two sub stands do? What's the purpose of them?


----------



## HTip

phillihp23 said:


> What do the two sub stands do? What's the purpose of them?


They isolate the sub from the surroundings and prevent the floor and walls from resonating. Only the force of the air provided by the sub can make things in the room vibrate 

It provides for tighter bass with less distortion. The commercial version is from Auralex and comes in 3 versions, SubDude, Gramma and Great Gramma. I have the normal Gramma in my living room and the Great Gramma underneath my Velodyne DD18.

http://www.auralex.com/c_sound_isolation/c_sound_isolation.asp


----------



## HTip

mcascio said:


> Thanks.
> 
> According to HSU, they recommended the two front corners would be good for the subs. But aside from that I would prefer it there since it's out of sight and not in the way.
> 
> Measurements may however prove otherwise. If it's a small difference, I'd still opt to put it hidden in the corner.


Putting the subs out of sight would be my preferred option also. And unless the bass reproduction becomes a problem it's certainly your best option.


----------



## pyrohusband

I really like the starlight scene as well. Such detail.


----------



## phillihp23

HTip said:


> They isolate the sub from the surroundings and prevent the floor and walls from resonating. Only the force of the air provided by the sub can make things in the room vibrate
> 
> It provides for tighter bass with less distortion. The commercial version is from Auralex and comes in 3 versions, SubDude, Gramma and Great Gramma. I have the normal Gramma in my living room and the Great Gramma underneath my Velodyne DD18.
> 
> http://www.auralex.com/c_sound_isolation/c_sound_isolation.asp


Whats the going rate for one of these $?
And would it work effectively with this subwoofer (link below)

http://www.definitivetech.com/products/prosub-800


----------



## HTip

phillihp23 said:


> Whats the going rate for one of these $?
> And would it work effectively with this subwoofer (link below)
> 
> http://www.definitivetech.com/products/prosub-800


Bottom price for the SubDude/Gramma in Europe is €55/60 (app. $75). A Great Gramma is around €80 (app. $100).

Your sub could benefit, but a isolator works best when the sub makes maximum contact. In your case the DF sub prevents this. DF subs sometimes have bottom plates and they work more effectively. A FF sub placed without legs/feet benefits the most.


----------



## phillihp23

HTip said:


> Bottom price for the SubDude/Gramma in Europe is €55/60 (app. $75). A Great Gramma is around €80 (app. $100).
> 
> Your sub could benefit, but a isolator works best when the sub makes maximum contact. In your case the DF sub prevents this. DF subs sometimes have bottom plates and they work more effectively. A FF sub placed without legs/feet benefits the most.


My issue is my DF sub tends to walk across the floor.:rubeyes: and cause some rattling in the room.

It also has A pressure-coupled Low Bass Radiator on the enclosure bottom works with the front-mounted bass driver to produce deep, soul-stirring bass. 

Any ideas on how to mitigate the floor walking and vibrations?


----------



## HTip

phillihp23 said:


> My issue is my DF sub tends to walk across the floor.:rubeyes: and cause some rattling in the room.
> 
> It also has A pressure-coupled Low Bass Radiator on the enclosure bottom works with the front-mounted bass driver to produce deep, soul-stirring bass.
> 
> Any ideas on how to mitigate the floor walking and vibrations?


Not to cloud Mario's thread I will answer your question in your own thread...


----------



## mcascio

I just posted some REW graphs into another thread. I'll hopefully be able to summarize my findings in this thread.

I'm in the dark, so if anyone can offer some guidance it would be greatly appreciated. 
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/rew-forum/62871-rewing-cinemar-theater.html#post560141


----------



## mcascio

I finally got around to moving the HSU VTF-15H into my right front corner.

But before doing so, I made a 1:1 sized reproduction of the back panel graphic. I knew I'd have to reach over the top from time to time and make some adjustments. The graphic allows me to feel my way around and make some quick adjustments. 

I've included the printable graphic for anyone else who has the same sub. I just set it on the top of the back of the sub.


















First impressions of this sub are really good. It does dig deep. There are lots of settings that you can tweak to vary your results. And the balance with the two subs in each front corner seems to work good. There's a note in the beginning of Tron that I never even new existed!

I've found my M&K 350 sub can also go very deep when you take it out of THX mode settings. One thing I've noticed with both of these subs digging so low is that my sound proofing may have needed more. If I go to near reference levels, the floor above does vibrate.

Perhaps another layer of drywall may have solved the problem...but not sure. It's still magical that I can listen at the levels I can without disturbing the family upstairs.

I've been tweaking the speakers in the room as well and tinkering with some of the Onkyo settings based on THX settings to see how things sound. Chris from M&K was nice enough to spend two hours with me on the phone last week going over everything within the Onkyo to prep me for using REW.

I've angled my front LCR's down just a bit to target the primary listening position and verified that the wides are also at the same level as the fronts. I moved my LR speakers out to the very edge of the inside of the projection screen. 
I also configured my M&K SS-150's for Heights and Wides to be in Direct Radiating mode instead of Tripole mode. The sound in the room is continually improving.

My next thing I'd like to do is get some insulation in at least the bottom half of all the speaker columns to prevent any resonance that may be happening. I think I've asked this before and not got an answer, but is there any benefit using OC703 instead of fluffy insulation in the speaker columns?


----------



## Prof.

> I moved my LR speakers out to the very edge of the inside of the projection screen.


Mario..What difference did that make to the front sound stage.? Was it an improvement on your previous positioning?


----------



## mcascio

I haven't had a chance to really listen to it yet to give it the seal of approval. But with that change, it got me close to Audyssey, Dolby and M&K's recommended positions. It seems pretty far apart, but in line with their standards.

Here's a view of where my speakers are physically within the room and the Audyssey recommendations.


----------



## Prof.

I'll be interested to hear your report on that set up..


----------



## robbo266317

It really is an impressive setup.

My room is nowhere near that size, or as elaborate.


----------



## SI.Theater

To borrow a line from one of my favorite movies...









Awesome theater! This is one of the best theater setups I've ever seen!


----------



## NotBananas

Mario: ..._"Perhaps another layer of drywall may have solved the problem...but not sure."_

A second layer of drywall may help a little, but it won't stop the sound. I solved the problem by knowing how sound is transmitted. The only way sound can be passively transmitted is by vibrating the air. If the speakers vibrate a door, wall, etc. on one side, the other side will also vibrate, thus acting like a passive speaker, re-transmitting the sound to the other room.

I solved the problem by remembering how hotels and motels (fond memories of my youth) isolate the sound from the other rooms. They use concrete blocks for walls. Obviously they cannot vibrate, so no re-transmission of sound to the other room.

Since my house cannot have walls replaced by concrete blocks, the next best way to stop sound re-transmission was to pour fine grain beach sand (the kind they use for kids' playground) into the walls. I drilled two holes between each vertical stud, one on top at the ceiling level and using a stud finder to locate the horizontal 2x4 between the studs, one just below the horizontal stud and filled the cavity with the sand.

I used soft putty (never hardens) on the inside of each wall outlet and light switch box to cover up the holes, so no sand worked its way into these boxes. The sand is non-conductive and will not harm any electrical boxes even if it goes inside.

Now the hollow walls are as good as solid walls. No re-transmission of sound to the rest of the house. BTW, I used solid core (fire rated) entry door to the family room and made sure there was a heavy duty weather seal on the perimeter and the bottom of this door. Think of sound as water: any leak will find itself to the other room.

Magic! No more sound into the rest of the house.


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> I'll be interested to hear your report on that set up..


After some playing around...I decided that I didn't care for them that far out. The center channel seemed to become more obvious and pronounced. I moved the L/R speakers in by only about 4-5 inches and it seems to sound better to my ears. They are facing the primary listening position.


----------



## mcascio

robbo266317 said:


> It really is an impressive setup.
> 
> My room is nowhere near that size, or as elaborate.


Thanks so much. I really appreciate the compliments.


----------



## mcascio

SI.Theater said:


> To borrow a line from one of my favorite movies...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome theater! This is one of the best theater setups I've ever seen!


Thanks SI.Theater.

I really appreciate it.


----------



## mcascio

NotBananas said:


> Mario: ..._"Perhaps another layer of drywall may have solved the problem...but not sure."_
> 
> A second layer of drywall may help a little, but it won't stop the sound. I solved the problem by knowing how sound is transmitted. The only way sound can be passively transmitted is by vibrating the air. If the speakers vibrate a door, wall, etc. on one side, the other side will also vibrate, thus acting like a passive speaker, re-transmitting the sound to the other room.
> 
> I solved the problem by remembering how hotels and motels (fond memories of my youth) isolate the sound from the other rooms. They use concrete blocks for walls. Obviously they cannot vibrate, so no re-transmission of sound to the other room.
> 
> Since my house cannot have walls replaced by concrete blocks, the next best way to stop sound re-transmission was to pour fine grain beach sand (the kind they use for kids' playground) into the walls. I drilled two holes between each vertical stud, one on top at the ceiling level and using a stud finder to locate the horizontal 2x4 between the studs, one just below the horizontal stud and filled the cavity with the sand.
> 
> I used soft putty (never hardens) on the inside of each wall outlet and light switch box to cover up the holes, so no sand worked its way into these boxes. The sand is non-conductive and will not harm any electrical boxes even if it goes inside.
> 
> Now the hollow walls are as good as solid walls. No re-transmission of sound to the rest of the house. BTW, I used solid core (fire rated) entry door to the family room and made sure there was a heavy duty weather seal on the perimeter and the bottom of this door. Think of sound as water: any leak will find itself to the other room.
> 
> Magic! No more sound into the rest of the house.


Thanks for the response.

I've never heard of anyone doing that sand trick. I would think that you would actually be coupling the walls further together. Did you have insulation in the walls before adding the sand?

In my case though, I've decoupled everything so I was hoping not to have any vibrations transmitted to adjoining walls or even the ceiling. The ceiling is suspending using clips and channels. The walls are decoupled from the ceiling using IB-3 Clips. The other half of the room has double walls separate by an inch air gap. 

I've also got door seals and the heavy door installed.


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> After some playing around...I decided that I didn't care for them that far out. The center channel seemed to become more obvious and pronounced. I moved the L/R speakers in by only about 4-5 inches and it seems to sound better to my ears. They are facing the primary listening position.


I thought that might be the case..As I mentioned previously, I have my L&R speakers placed near the edges of the 16:9 image and this gives me a very smooth transition of sound right across the screen and beyond, on my 2.39:1 scope screen..


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> I thought that might be the case..As I mentioned previously, I have my L&R speakers placed near the edges of the 16:9 image and this gives me a very smooth transition of sound right across the screen and beyond, on my 2.39:1 scope screen..


Mine are pretty close to in the center of the 16:9 bars on my scope screen. I initially didn't move them in any further since there's a bar on my masking system. But I really have been too lazy to even break out the masking system...so I may try positioning them more closely to match yours.


----------



## mcascio

I just wanted to wish everyone out there a very Happy Thanksgiving. Especially those who were affected by Sandy and may not have a home to eat a warm meal in today.


----------



## mcascio

Anybody try one of these in their theaters: Laser Stars Indoor Light Show
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VBNIP2/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M2T1_ST1_3p_dp_1

I bought one a couple months back and never got around to posting my results. My sister saw it in a commercial building and asked what it was.

I think it's very cool and the blue blobs create a really cool effect. Not so sure I liked the green stars since they started to look repetitive. 

The major downside with this device though is it's impossible at least in my room to hide it and project it without getting in the viewers eyes.

The fan is a bit too loud as well. Great for a kids room though in my opinion.


----------



## mcascio

I know the GOM Fabric I used is pretty popular. And I'm sure alot of you also have black seats. So I'm hoping someone has already found some good throw blankets and pillows for their theater that match the GOM Claret Accent Red:









Ideally I can also pull out the gold in my carpet.

Here's a room image for reference.









I found this red plaid throw at sears:
http://www.sears.com/cozy-nights-by...096VA52240012P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3


----------



## moblsv

This is the best thing I've found on the Internet in ages! I built a theater in my existing house 4 years ago, which has been awesome, and am now in the process of moving to a new home. My new place has a decent spot for a theater which is roughly the size of this room, except for the sunken floor. I am soooo looking forward to building another theater and improving on things I wish I had done the first time. I now have in place the general concept for my new build which has been very heavily influenced by what I have read here. Thanks so much for posting so much detail.


----------



## mcascio

moblsv said:


> This is the best thing I've found on the Internet in ages! I built a theater in my existing house 4 years ago, which has been awesome, and am now in the process of moving to a new home. My new place has a decent spot for a theater which is roughly the size of this room, except for the sunken floor. I am soooo looking forward to building another theater and improving on things I wish I had done the first time. I now have in place the general concept for my new build which has been very heavily influenced by what I have read here. Thanks so much for posting so much detail.


Thank you very much moblsv.

Congrats on your new house. I'm glad you'll be able to benefit from the pics and details I've posted here.

Hopefully it will save you some time and research. Be sure to start a thread when you start your build.


----------



## mcascio

I converted an old HP touchsmart PC into a MegaTouch gaming station at the bar outside the theater.

Much less expensive going this route. I can also turn it into a jukebox and run MainLobby on it as well.

It's been working out really well and adds a nice gaming element to the bar area.


----------



## phillihp23

Stop it ...Stop it...my eyes ...my eyes :rubeyes: Your over the top Mario.


----------



## JQueen

It looks amazing man great job all the way around


----------



## NBPk402

mcascio said:


> Thanks for the response.
> 
> I've never heard of anyone doing that sand trick. I would think that you would actually be coupling the walls further together. Did you have insulation in the walls before adding the sand?
> 
> In my case though, I've decoupled everything so I was hoping not to have any vibrations transmitted to adjoining walls or even the ceiling. The ceiling is suspending using clips and channels. The walls are decoupled from the ceiling using IB-3 Clips. The other half of the room has double walls separate by an inch air gap.
> 
> I've also got door seals and the heavy door installed.


Years ago I went to Keith Yates Audio in Sacramento and he had the wall behind the speakers filled with sand between 2 concrete or cinder block (I believe) walls. He also had a coffered ceiling, RPG diffusers, and ASC Tube Traps. The sound in the room was the best I have ever heard. :T


----------



## phillihp23

Mario,
The TV your using for a digital poster and hooked up to your cinemar software.......
Is it hooked up to the same computer as is playing the digital movies in your theater? If so what connections are you using to connect to the TV Poster? (hdmi, ethernet,PC). So can the same computer run one immage on the TV Poster and play another on the theater screen? I assume thats what you do.


----------



## mcascio

JQueen said:


> It looks amazing man great job all the way around


Thanks JQueen.

If you get bored with all your new toys, I'll be happy to take them off your hands.


----------



## mcascio

phillihp23 said:


> Mario,
> The TV your using for a digital poster and hooked up to your cinemar software.......
> Is it hooked up to the same computer as is playing the digital movies in your theater? If so what connections are you using to connect to the TV Poster? (hdmi, ethernet,PC). So can the same computer run one immage on the TV Poster and play another on the theater screen? I assume thats what you do.


Yes - you could use the same computer for both purposes. MainLobby allows you to specify the exact X/Y coordinates of where it opens up on.

I use the primary display for my whole house movie player (not theater) and the 2nd display is showing the movie poster for the theater. My movie player for theater is a smaller form factor.

I used a MuxLab VGA balun over cat5 to connect the LED Movie Poster.


----------



## phillihp23

So if I have a 50 ft run of VGA CL2 installed in wall from the pc location to the TV Poster location it should suffice the same i assume, or does cinemar need a Cat5 connection to identify, talk with, the TV Poster?

To install both displays (projector and TV Poster) to the same PC would a VGA splitter work with cinemar?


----------



## cuzed2

mcascio said:


> Here's a photo of Jeff's mural.
> 
> I ended up taking two separate photos.
> One with some lights on and one with no lights on and then merged the two in Photoshop. If I didn't you wouldn't get a perspective of the seats in the room and would only see stars in a black room.


I guess I spend too much time on AVS, because I completely missed this fabulous build thread.
Simply Awesome. Mario, you are thee Man!


----------



## mcascio

A VGA cable in the wall would work fine too. I just like the flexibility of having cat5 should I decide to go HDMI or some other connection down the road. We're merely displaying one of the computer displays at the movie poster. There's no need for any type of data connection. Now if you decide you want IR control at the Movie Poster to power it on/off you might want to run 22/4 or another cat5.

A VGA splitter won't work. You'd need a PC with two video outputs.


----------



## bamabum

Awesome Theatre... my plans just changed


----------



## mcascio

bamabum said:


> Awesome Theatre... my plans just changed


Thanks bamabum.

Glad you found some useful info in the thread.


----------



## mcascio

We recently started carrying the Dune HD Media Players and I finally had a chance to test the Dune HD Max out in the theater over the weekend.
I had played with network media players in the past and have always been disappointed.










But I must say I'm really impressed with this one.

The packaging it comes in and solidness of the unit was even impressive.

I only played with the onscreen navigation using the supplied IR remote for setting up the unit since my main objective was to launch movies on it using MainLobby. 
After getting it networked and obtaining the IP Address, I had it configured within MLServer in a few minutes and was controlling it from my iPad. I also updated my Harmony remote to support the transport controls. I like the fact that the HD Max has IP control. This provides me with bi-directional control and feedback of the unit. I'll be enhancing my MainLobby Movie Poster LED TV to show some more details while the movie is playing including things like time code, playback status, percentage complete, etc.

One of the challenges with the HTPC has always been that it will only output sound on one channel. The Dune HD Max outputs both sound and video on all available ports. This works out well for me where I'm feeding the Onkyo via HDMI and can get TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio sound, plus feed my D-Box motion platform via Coax or Toslink (which requires 5.1 to sync), plus feed my Russound Whole House Audio system via the stereo outputs. I also feed the whole house component matrix switcher via the Dune HD Max's component video outputs. 

The video also looks great and upscales standard DVD's making them watchable even in the theater at 136" wide. 

I connected my Watt's Up? Pro to the HD Max and found it's only drawing 14.5 watts while streaming a Blu-ray movie to it. So I'm really impressed with its energy efficiency as well.

For anyone who is tired of dealing with the complexities and ongoing maintenance of an HTPC, the Dune HD Max is a great low price option.
This one's a keeper.


----------



## phillihp23

You have peeked my interest....


----------



## shananigans

You have given me such inspiration to build my own theatre looks amazing


----------



## mcascio

shananigans said:


> You have given me such inspiration to build my own theatre looks amazing


Great to hear.

Merry Christmas everyone.


----------



## mcascio

Hope everyone had a great Christmas.

These cups showed up under the tree for the theater's front row D-Box seats.

They work great for mixed drinks and soda and prevent spills while sitting in the motion seats.


----------



## mcascio

The new Panasonic PT-AE8000U is installed.

A few first impressions and some comparisons of the PT-AE4000U I previously had in the theater.

Out of the box, the colors seem more vibrant compared to the 4000. There's certainly more light output and brightness.
I can see the walls around the room light up more because of this...but not to the point of it distracting. Everything really seems sharper.
The NORMAL lamp mode seems louder than the PT-AE4000U.

I like the fact that I can now hide the text PROCESSING IMAGE as it switches back and forth between different screen size / formats. Especially for movies like Tron where it's switching within the movie itself.

I was curious to see how much better the 3D has improved. While I have yet to watch an entire movie, I was impressed with the 3D. In fact, I wanted to show my Father In Law what it looked like and I only had one pair of 3D glasses. He actually was so wowed by it that he sat by himself in the theater and watched the entire movie (Ice Age).

I have yet to do much tweaking of the settings aside for some options in 3D.

My perspective is if you are an existing AE4000U owner and not interested in 3D, you might consider holding on to your 4000 for a while - or just upgrade to the 7000.

But I think the jump in price from the AE4000U to the AE8000U is definitely worth it if you also want to dive into 3D. You'll have to figure in the cost of the 3D glasses though too. They aren't cheap.

Hope that helps others make a decision.


----------



## kelsto

mcascio said:


> I converted an old HP touchsmart PC into a MegaTouch gaming station at the bar outside the theater.
> 
> Much less expensive going this route. I can also turn it into a jukebox and run MainLobby on it as well.
> 
> It's been working out really well and adds a nice gaming element to the bar area.


Excellent HT and thread!

Do you have specifics on how you turned your HP into a MegaTouch and a jukebox?


----------



## mcascio

kelsto said:


> Excellent HT and thread!
> 
> Do you have specifics on how you turned your HP into a MegaTouch and a jukebox?


Thanks kelsto.

Sure. I'm just running games bought from:
http://www.popcap.com/all-games/bejeweled

I specifically pointed you to the Bejeweled page which is very popular and addicting. They have other photo hunt games as well.

I plan to build a MainLobby menu game page that shows all the games available and then launch each game. When they exit the game, they would be brought back to the main menu of games. This isolates them from having to use windows and makes it more like a MegaTouch.

The Jukebox is using our own software. It requires a combination of MainLobby, MusicLobby and MLServer.

I designed the interface to function just like they do at the bars, except without the need to insert a quarter.  It even has options for "Make Mine First" - which puts it next in line instead of appending the song to the end of the list.










There are more screenshots on this page:
http://www.cinemarsolutions.com/musiclobby.screenshots.html

Hope that helps.


----------



## HTip

That explains why your home automations look so professional... You are a professional! 

Seriously, it looks great and well thought through... :T


----------



## raZorTT

mcascio said:


> Hope everyone had a great Christmas.
> 
> These cups showed up under the tree for the theater's front row D-Box seats.
> 
> They work great for mixed drinks and soda and prevent spills while sitting in the motion seats.



Love the cups! Where did you find them??

Cheers,
Simon


----------



## mcascio

raZorTT said:


> Love the cups! Where did you find them??
> 
> Cheers,
> Simon


Thanks Simon.

My wife bought them...but I did a quick google search and it looks like she may have got them at Bed Bath and Beyond:
http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/product.asp?SKU=17000918


----------



## mcascio

HTip said:


> That explains why your home automations look so professional... You are a professional!
> 
> Seriously, it looks great and well thought through... :T


Thanks HTip.

It's not only a profession...but an obsession.


----------



## Galwaybay

Nice one


----------



## mcascio

I needed an easy way to charge, store and keep safe all the 3D glasses at once.

So I used a rackmount cable management D-ring from Monoprice. I had plenty of space left over in my Patch Panel cabinet in the theater so it worked out great. 

I used this 10 port USB hub and a power supply. 









Then routed all the cables up to the D-rings.



















I only plan on stocking seven 3D glasses, but I could easily hold 10 with this sytem if not more. It's nice to be able to charge, store and keep the glasses protected all at the same time.

Thought this might be helpful to other's with 3D glasses.

That usb hub also allows me to charge my remote and PS3 remote in the same cabinet.


----------



## cuzed2

Mario,
Clever idea for the glasses!

I also need to check out those drink glasses - thanks for sharing.


----------



## mcascio

cuzed2 said:


> Mario,
> Clever idea for the glasses!
> 
> I also need to check out those drink glasses - thanks for sharing.


You're very welcome. I've also been playing around with the idea of making custom drink glasses from Tervis. But have yet to come up with a design idea that I like.


----------



## mcascio

This past weekend, I met with my old friend insulation.

I had enough left over from the project to fill the lower half of all the columns below the chair rail.

I'm going to hold off on filling the top portion for now. I may opt for something more finger friendly since I may need to pull it out from time to time. I'd like something that stays together fairly well and doesn't shed on the carpet.

Any ideas? Cotton batting?


----------



## ALMFamily

mcascio said:


> This past weekend, I met with my old friend insulation.
> 
> I had enough left over from the project to fill the lower half of all the columns below the chair rail.
> 
> I'm going to hold off on filling the top portion for now. I may opt for something more finger friendly since I may need to pull it out from time to time. I'd like something that stays together fairly well and doesn't shed on the carpet.
> 
> Any ideas? Cotton batting?


What about OC 703?


----------



## mcascio

ALMFamily said:


> What about OC 703?


Yeah - I was thinking about that. I have some left over GOM - so I would probably wrap it with that once it's cut to size. Again, trying to minimize getting things on the carpet if I need to remove them.


----------



## ALMFamily

mcascio said:


> Yeah - I was thinking about that. I have some left over GOM - so I would probably wrap it with that once it's cut to size. Again, trying to minimize getting things on the carpet if I need to remove them.


There is a place right in West Allis that carries it, but you have to buy a case. If you decide to go that route, let me know as I have some left from the case I just got. I think I have 2 sheets......


----------



## phillihp23

46,759 Thread Visits INCREDIBLE!!!! Shows just how amazing your build is. :clap:


----------



## mcascio

phillihp23 said:


> 46,759 Thread Visits INCREDIBLE!!!! Shows just how amazing your build is. :clap:


Wow. That is a lot of visits...especially considering I didn't start the thread until March of 2012. Now if we could just set it up so I get a penny for every visit.


----------



## mcascio

After adding the 3D glasses rack to my Patch Panel cabinet, I thought a little more light would make sense.

So I used one of my left over LED strips to line the inside perimeter of the cabinet. It is much easier now to see.

I'm also planning to put put some OC703 in the back of the cabinet since it's in the corner. I can tell the bass is really boomy back there. Just wish I had room for 4" instead of just 2".


----------



## mcascio

I've also noticed my electric bills rising so I'm always trying to find ways to reduce the energy usage.

I know the theater uses quite a bit but all the equipment gets powered down.

But since I have motion detectors in all the rooms and touch screens in quite a few, I've set up the screens to power down after 60 minutes of inactivity. Then whenever, someone walks in the room, the phone rings or pulls in/out of the driveway, the touch screens power back on. I'll be able to apply this to at least 3 of my touch screens around the house. The one in our great room I'll leave on all the time.

I also received some battery powered water leak alarms that I'll be placing around the house mainly because of the theater.

I'm putting one by the water heater, one by the well blader and one in the bathroom above the theater. I'll eventually add auto shutoff's too, but I just wanted something I could pop in there without a plumber involved. Just a bit more peace of mind.


----------



## NBPk402

mcascio said:


> I also received some battery powered water leak alarms that I'll be placing around the house mainly because of the theater.
> 
> I'm putting one by the water heater, one by the well blader and one in the bathroom above the theater. I'll eventually add auto shutoff's too, but I just wanted something I could pop in there without a plumber involved. Just a bit more peace of mind.


Don't forget to put one by your dish and clothes washers too.


----------



## phillihp23

mcascio said:


> I used this 10 port USB hub and a power supply.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought this might be helpful to other's with 3D glasses.
> 
> That usb hub also allows me to charge my remote and PS3 remote in the same cabinet.


Were did you get the 10 port USB Hub? Brand? Thats a swell idea. I could use one for my 6 pairs of 3D glasses and 3 PS3 controllers.


----------



## JQueen

Here's one ^^^

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051PGX2I/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1358052433&sr=8-4&pi=SL75


----------



## mcascio

phillihp23 said:


> Were did you get the 10 port USB Hub? Brand? Thats a swell idea. I could use one for my 6 pairs of 3D glasses and 3 PS3 controllers.


I may need to find another one. The one I have doesn't appear to charhe my Ps3 or harmony remote. Maybe not enough juice?


----------



## chrapladm

Wow what an amazing Theater. WOW. Hats off to you.


----------



## mcascio

chrapladm said:


> Wow what an amazing Theater. WOW. Hats off to you.


Hey chrapladm,

Thanks for chiming in o the thread tand the compliments.


----------



## mcascio

I woke up at 5am to the pleasant sound of our sump pump alarm going off.

Turns out that a piece of hardened spray foam had fallen into the sump tank and lodged it's way underneath the float so it couldn't go all the way to the top and turn on the main sump.

I have the alarm set to go off when the first sump fails...which was a good thing. I immediately mannually tripped the 2nd backup sump - but that wasn't pumping water out either. I had just layed down some black plastic flexible sump hose and layed it on the ground outside extending it past the house...but apparently it was clogged or frozen. Which is odd since that sump never runs.

My plan was to route some PVC underground next year to hide the pipe, but it would be a bigger pain if it's frozen underground rather than above. What's the recommended approach? I need to route it about 30 feet away from the house.

The 2nd sump outlet sits about 2' above the ground. So one theory is just to use a stiff PVC pipe and keep it angled to prevent any sitting water. But this would keep it above ground and kind of an eye sore.

All in all, I was happy to have avoided potentially flooding the theater.


----------



## ALMFamily

Mine is the same - juts out about 2' above ground. What I ended up doing is planting a berry bush in front of it to hide it. Like you said, putting it in the ground is probably not an option....


----------



## Dale Rasco

I am sure you mentioned it, maybe not, but what software did you use during your design?


----------



## mcascio

ALMFamily said:


> Mine is the same - juts out about 2' above ground. What I ended up doing is planting a berry bush in front of it to hide it. Like you said, putting it in the ground is probably not an option....


Thanks. I actually got some good tips on another forum. I'll post more details later.
I do need to get it about 30' away from the house to prevent it from recycling itself.


----------



## mcascio

Dale Rasco said:


> I am sure you mentioned it, maybe not, but what software did you use during your design?


Hi Dale. I used Newteks Lightwave 3D.


----------



## mcascio

I picked up the Darbee Darblet DVP 5000 a couple weeks ago. I wanted to play around with it a bit before giving some thoughts on it.

I must say, it does a great job of adding sharpness to the projected image on my Panasonic AE8000U that I hadn't seen before. You can see this especially with things like hair, the strands become much more visible and defined.

It also appears to affect the contrast of images. This is especially true with the animated movies out there. They really seem to pop now. The ability to dial it in is also nice.

The only downside I've really seen is that you want to play around with it before each movie to see which settings work the best.

I'm definitely keeping the Darbee Darblet and making it a permanent link in the chain.

I was going to post some screenshots, but the DarbeeVision website does a much better job and has lots of images that you can see how it affects the images.

I also watched Polar Express in 3D with my daughter. I finally got around to getting my PS3 hooked up into the D-Box too. So we were able to experience 3D plus the motion platform. It really brought us into the movie. The only thing we were missing was smellavision.


----------



## Prof.

Mario,

I've recently installed a Darbee Darblet on my system as well..
It does all what you say, but there's another aspect that I think helps the image as well..

When you zoom to fill the screen with a 2.35:1 image, you're pushing the black bars off the screen and you lose about a third of the pixels!
With an anamorphic lens you're actually filling in the black bars with the image and therefore there is no pixel loss..Hence the popularity of A lenses..

What I find with the Darbee processor is that the image produced is virtually the same sharpness and definition as when all the pixels are used..similar to the A lens..but with the added advantage of improved contrast..
A very worthwhile addition to anyone's system! :T


----------



## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Mario,
> 
> I've recently installed a Darbee Darblet on my system as well..
> It does all what you say, but there's another aspect that I think helps the image as well..
> 
> When you zoom to fill the screen with a 2.35:1 image, you're pushing the black bars off the screen and you lose about a third of the pixels!
> With an anamorphic lens you're actually filling in the black bars with the image and therefore there is no pixel loss..Hence the popularity of A lenses..
> 
> What I find with the Darbee processor is that the image produced is virtually the same sharpness and definition as when all the pixels are used..similar to the A lens..but with the added advantage of improved contrast..
> A very worthwhile addition to anyone's system! :T



Prof. Thanks for your feedback on the Darbee Darblet as well. And an interesting perspective of the anamorphic lens. Given I didn't go the route of the anamorphic lens, this seems like it's a perfect solution.

I'm assuming though that it still helps those even with anamorphic lenses since I do still see great improvements with 16:9 imagery as well.


----------



## Prof.

mcascio said:


> I'm assuming though that it still helps those even with anamorphic lenses since I do still see great improvements with 16:9 imagery as well.


Yes it would also help to improve the image with any type of A lens..In fact I've heard of people reporting improvement even with top line projectors worth about $10,00!
On 16:9 HDTV I see a vast improvement..


----------



## bamabum

Mario,

I am a fan and I have learned a lot from your thread. 

If you have a second please help me with the following:

1) Did you have any issues with the 3/4 oak butting up to the carpet. My installer told me to leave a 3/8 in lip but I would like to do something similar. How did they roll the edge to the wood? Is there any tripping hazard or is it a smooth transition.

2) What size/style screws did you use for the MDF columns? I bought a kregg kit and the screws at HD have a washer style screws will rip the MDF if tightened to the right amount. I am having issues with keeping the MDF solid even with Brad nail, Kregg screws, and premium glue. I didnt notice any corner blocking or anything to help. 

Any help is much appreciated and will be returned in Karma.


----------



## mcascio

bamabum said:


> Mario,
> 
> I am a fan and I have learned a lot from your thread.
> 
> If you have a second please help me with the following:
> 
> 1) Did you have any issues with the 3/4 oak butting up to the carpet. My installer told me to leave a 3/8 in lip but I would like to do something similar. How did they roll the edge to the wood? Is there any tripping hazard or is it a smooth transition.
> 
> Here's a photo I took to show you the two meeting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That little white on the right side is actually the backing of the carpet...unfortunately it's white...so at certain angles you can see it. I plan to eventually go around with a magic marker and paint it black. There's a few spots where it's noticable.
> 
> 2) What size/style screws did you use for the MDF columns? I bought a kregg kit and the screws at HD have a washer style screws will rip the MDF if tightened to the right amount. I am having issues with keeping the MDF solid even with Brad nail, Kregg screws, and premium glue. I didnt notice any corner blocking or anything to help.
> 
> Any help is much appreciated and will be returned in Karma.


Thanks bamabum,

I didn't have any issues butting up the carpet to the oak since I didn't do it.  The carpenters did a fantastic job though. Everything was double blued to prevent lift up and they also had to add some rubber ramps to bring the carpet to the same height as the 3/4" oak bullnose. Because of the ramping, there's no tripping hazard.

Regarding the Kregg, if you are using a joining (2) 3/4" material together, then use a 1 1/4" screw. The ones that have the large washer are better. Use the coarse thread when going into MDF. You'll want to "HAND" tighten the screws. Otherwise you may overtighten and strip the MDF. You should get a very solid corner with the Kregg. You may just need a bit more practice. 

Hope this helps.


----------



## HTB2015

mcascio said:


> Thanks bamabum,
> 
> I didn't have any issues butting up the carpet to the oak since I didn't do it.  The carpenters did a fantastic job though. Everything was double blued to prevent lift up and they also had to add some rubber ramps to bring the carpet to the same height as the 3/4" oak bullnose. Because of the ramping, there's no tripping hazard.
> 
> Regarding the Kregg, if you are using a joining (2) 3/4" material together, then use a 1 1/4" screw. The ones that have the large washer are better. Use the coarse thread when going into MDF. You'll want to "HAND" tighten the screws. Otherwise you may overtighten and strip the MDF. You should get a very solid corner with the Kregg. You may just need a bit more practice.
> 
> Hope this helps.


Hand tightening is a good idea. We used a drill but with very low torque. I'd say 15% of max torque.


----------



## bamabum

Thx!!

Things in Alabama are not as sophisticated. We only know how to win National Championships.

So I've learned to hand tighten the screws and someone else said to put glue in the holes and make sure to space every 6 - 8 ". I was going for every 1.5 ft. Also I was using 1/2 inch and now Ill upgrade to 3/4. I noticed you and others say to flush route the edge. Did you leave a 1/16 overhang and route the edge? Or did you try to hand line them up. Ive noticed the kreg jig moves the wood even when clamped as the screw goes in. Did you use the 90 degree clamp or is this a $30 sales gimmick?

I google'd the rubber ramps and will show/order for the carpet guy. This makes sense as I have laid tile on a sloped bed using thin set.

I don't fully understand the white crack edge. Is that from the carpet under binding showing through because it is bent down around the ramp edge?

Sorry for all the questions.. I've been kicked out of the man cave by my sons x-box and his yelling into the headset microphone so I am very particular about my new man cave. I still am not sure how his friends can't here his normal voice when the mic is 1 in from his mouth.


----------



## mcascio

HTB2015 said:


> Hand tightening is a good idea. We used a drill but with very low torque. I'd say 15% of max torque.


Yeah - eventually I moved to using the drill with very little torque to get them most of the way down...then hand tightened. I think for someone starting out, hand tightening will give them a better feel and can see the slight shift of the material on the last twist.


----------



## mcascio

bamabum said:


> Thx!!
> 
> Things in Alabama are not as sophisticated. We only know how to win National Championships.
> 
> So I've learned to hand tighten the screws and someone else said to put glue in the holes and make sure to space every 6 - 8 ". I was going for every 1.5 ft. Also I was using 1/2 inch and now Ill upgrade to 3/4. I noticed you and others say to flush route the edge. Did you leave a 1/16 overhang and route the edge? Or did you try to hand line them up. Ive noticed the kreg jig moves the wood even when clamped as the screw goes in. Did you use the 90 degree clamp or is this a $30 sales gimmick?
> 
> I google'd the rubber ramps and will show/order for the carpet guy. This makes sense as I have laid tile on a sloped bed using thin set.
> 
> I don't fully understand the white crack edge. Is that from the carpet under binding showing through because it is bent down around the ramp edge?
> 
> Sorry for all the questions.. I've been kicked out of the man cave by my sons x-box and his yelling into the headset microphone so I am very particular about my new man cave. I still am not sure how his friends can't here his normal voice when the mic is 1 in from his mouth.


When I first started my columns I didn't have a flush trim bit nor knew too much about it. So I didn't use that method. I got pretty good at positioning the mdf slightly off so by time I tightened it, it landed pretty square on. However, I'd probably go the route of the flush trim bit now though and just trim off the little extra on the edge.

I personally use any glue on the screws. Make sure when you are apply the glue, that you rub your finger over it along the length of the board...so it's pretty much covers the entire surface and isn't thick. That should hold extremely well.

Regarding the carpet, I stayed out of the room while I let the pro's do their job. So I'm not too knowledgable about their techiniques. But from looking at it, they tucked the edge of the carpet down, but it doesn't look like they wrapped it under the rubber ramps. Yeah - the white is just a section where they probably cut it a little too short and didn't have as much material for tucking. (the white is the carpet under binding)

Good luck on the build. I've thoroughly enjoyed my basement as well as the theater. Since it also includes my office, it provides some nice separation for work and normal everyday living with the family.


----------



## pyrohusband

Yes, the carpet is tucked between the oak and the shim. Not tucked under the shim. They are glued or nailed to the main floor.
You say they did a double stick installation? If so hope it never has to come up for any reason. Lol
That is a bear to take up. But I would think the density of the glue down pad would help the acoustics.


----------



## mcascio

pyrohusband said:


> Yes, the carpet is tucked between the oak and the shim. Not tucked under the shim. They are glued or nailed to the main floor.
> You say they did a double stick installation? If so hope it never has to come up for any reason. Lol
> That is a bear to take up. But I would think the density of the glue down pad would help the acoustics.


The guy installing the carpet said not to ever call him back if I need the carpet replaced...like you he said it would be a bear to take out.


----------



## pyrohusband

mcascio said:


> The guy installing the carpet said not to ever call him back if I need the carpet replaced...like you he said it would be a bear to take out.


We use a machine to remove double stick installations. Still not any fun.
I would like to know more about your Main Lobby. What is your opinion on it? I currently have my home setup with x10 home automation. I would like to incorporate a single software to run my media library and my home automation and have heard there software is really nice.


----------



## mcascio

pyrohusband said:


> We use a machine to remove double stick installations. Still not any fun.
> I would like to know more about your Main Lobby. What is your opinion on it? I currently have my home setup with x10 home automation. I would like to incorporate a single software to run my media library and my home automation and have heard there software is really nice.


I can imagine it would be a real chore to take out. Hopefully I never have to see that day. 

Regarding MainLobby...you may not be aware, but I work for Cinemar...so my opinion could be biased. 

As you can imagine it's a big part of my daily life both when it comes to work and play. 

First hand, I've seen our software installed in the most modest homes all the way up to one of the most expensive homes in the state at one time. It's been used in multi-million dollar vehicles and is now making it's way into quite a few sports bars. I think this is a testimate not only to it's affordable price point, but also it's flexibility to tackle just about every situation. 

I'd be happy to answer any specific questions you may have either in the forums or offline. Feel free to call as well. I'm always happy to talk shop as well as inform you of how you could incorporate Cinemar into your daily life.


----------



## mcascio

We had a few people over for the Super Bowl last night. I didn't want the Movie Poster LED TV to go unused. So I found an image online just an hour before to fill in the space that worked out nicely.

Yet one more advantage to having the dynamic movie poster over the old-school paper posters.


----------



## cuzed2

Mario ,

That is awesome - this needs to be part of my next build.
Love It!


----------



## cavchameleon

Awesome!!! I'm subscribed - want to follow you though the process. Keep the pics and updated coming!!!


----------



## mcascio

Thanks guys.

Using the movie poster for the Super Bowl actually gave me another great idea for when the next season rolls around.

I should be able to display the current score of the game instead of some of the other data below the movie poster image...then display a graphic for the Green Bay Packers (insert your favorite team poster here) in place of the movie poster. People tend to move in/out of the theater quite frequently. So this will give them the latest score at all times. I think this will add some nice WOW factor.


----------



## mcascio

Here's what I'm thinking about converting the movie poster into a real-time scoreboard during the games.


----------



## ALMFamily

That is looking really good Mario - once you get that fleshed out, I think I will need to chat again about the software!

You would need to run it on an HTPC and then send it to the display TV via HDMI, yes?


----------



## mcascio

ALMFamily said:


> That is looking really good Mario - once you get that fleshed out, I think I will need to chat again about the software!
> 
> You would need to run it on an HTPC and then send it to the display TV via HDMI, yes?


Thanks Joe.

You bet.

You just have to get your HTPC connected to your display TV via VGA, HDMI or DVI...just depends on the outputs/inputs available to you on both the HTPC and TV. I personally just converted a cat5 cable to a VGA connection using baluns.


----------



## ALMFamily

At some point here in the near future, I am going to start looking at building an HTPC. It will really only be used for music (I love hard copy movies for some odd reason) and for the movie poster display. I also want to use it to do pre-movie entertainment - I have seen some recent things using XMBC which look really neat.


----------



## Dale Rasco

You guys are KILLING ME! I haven't even started making serious changes and I am already another two weeks behind! Awesome ideas by the way!


----------



## raZorTT

An up to date score board is a brilliant idea! :T


----------



## HTip

Really clever idea once again :T


----------



## MrAngles

Yo Mario!

I may have missed it in the thread, but what type of UV lights are you using for your star ceiling, and where are they mounted? Is there a UV rope light?


----------



## mcascio

I picked my black lights up at a local Spencer Gifts. If I remember right, if you bought one you got the second one 50% off. They are four footers. I used a total of 8 in the soffit.

I know there was some experiementation going on in other forums regarding using UV rope light. But I don't think there was ever definite confirmation that it worked well so I went down the proven route of using the tubes.


----------



## MrAngles

Ok so did you put an outlet in for each one, or extension cords, or what?


----------



## mcascio

MrAngles said:


> Ok so did you put an outlet in for each one, or extension cords, or what?


I have one outlet that they all go back to. Then they plug into an Insteon ApplicanceLinc so I can turn them on/off from the keypad and my home automation system.


----------



## MrAngles

Cool, thanks for the info!


----------



## HTB2015

Mario, how did you finish off the crown molding in this section (circled in blue)? I tried looking through the rest of your finished photos but they were a little dark to be able to tell exactly how you did it. I've been racking my brain trying to figure out what we're going to do. Maybe it was a bit easier for you since your screen was further back? Our screen frame butts up against the corner of our corner columns.


----------



## mcascio

HTB2015 said:


> Mario, how did you finish off the crown molding in this section (circled in blue)? I tried looking through the rest of your finished photos but they were a little dark to be able to tell exactly how you did it. I've been racking my brain trying to figure out what we're going to do. Maybe it was a bit easier for you since your screen was further back? Our screen frame butts up against the corner of our corner columns.


I just returned it towards the screenwall. I had it precut to size except for the length so I could prepaint it and just glue/nail it up. I had to put it up later since I hadn't finished installing the background for the screen itself. I wrapped 4" mdf with triple plush black velvet and made a frame to hide the 4" posts as well as above and below the seymour screen frame. Then the screen frame itself mounted to the black velvet frame. I tried to evenly space out both the top/bottom and left/right so the screen frame looked centered.


----------



## mcascio

I noticed my Generac wasn't doing it's normal weekly test run. So I went outside last week to look at the Overcrank light was lit.

I did get it to start so I'm not sure why. We did have a cold spell so maybe it just didn't turn over.

That scare prompted me to order one of these Remote Monitor's from HomeDepot. At least now I'll be able to tell from inside whether or not there is an issue with the generator rather than waiting for my ears to notice it not running or worse yet during a power outage it not turning on.

Now I just need for this snow to melt a bit so I can get it installed.










I noticed the manual shows a common wire terminals on the Generac itself. Anyone know if I could connect this right to my ElkM1 security system? That would be even better than the remote monitor.


----------



## phillihp23

Mario what you been watching lately in that state of the art Theater room....its been awfull quiet from you lately. Must be :hsd::yes:


----------



## mcascio

phillihp23 said:


> Mario what you been watching lately in that state of the art Theater room....its been awfull quiet from you lately. Must be :hsd::yes:


It's been a while since I've watched a movie in the theater. Been sick for the past couple weeks and then finally went to the Doctor and ended up going to the hospital on Tuesday to get my appendix out. So I've been recovering the past couple days...but have gained more mobility today.

We've got a group of friends coming over next Friday for movie night...so we may watch Looper or Battleship.


----------



## phillihp23

Wish you the best in a quick and healthy recovery.


----------



## HTip

phillihp23 said:


> Wish you the best in a quick and healthy recovery.


Me too. Get well soon!


----------



## mcascio

Thanks everyone for the well wishes. It's amazing how fast I'm recovering. It'll be a week tomorrow since surgery and I'm hoping I'm well enough to plow the 4-8" of snow we're supposed to get. I'll be on an ATV so my body shouldn't take too much abuse.

I still need to post some photos of the Denon 4520CI receiver that's replaced my Onkyo 3008. I'll get to it though.


----------



## ALMFamily

Glad to hear you are on the mend. And, welcome to the 4520 club!


----------



## HTB2015

mcascio said:


> We've got a group of friends coming over next Friday for movie night...so we may watch Looper or Battleship.


Glad you're feeling better Mario. Battleship should be a nice home theater experience! Especially since you have DBox.


----------



## mcascio

HTB2015 said:


> Glad you're feeling better Mario. Battleship should be a nice home theater experience! Especially since you have DBox.


Thanks. This is the first time I've actually tried to avoid watching any D-Box movies myself though...after recovering from the surgery.


----------



## mcascio

ALMFamily said:


> Glad to hear you are on the mend. And, welcome to the 4520 club!


Thanks Joe. The 4520 is a beast. It does seem to have a different sound than the Onkyo though.


----------



## mcascio

So I had some remnant Protostar black material that I thought I'd put to use. It seems everyone wants to see inside the speaker columns. So I thought it might be a good idea to cover the white MDF boards used to hold the speaker screens on with magnets.

Rather than painting, I thought the Protostar added a nice touch to the inside.


----------



## ALMFamily

mcascio said:


> Thanks Joe. The 4520 is a beast. It does seem to have a different sound than the Onkyo though.


I quite agree - I have not had too much time with the 4520 yet, but it does have a "warmer" feel to it IMO.


----------



## Greenster

Thank you so much for sharing your build with us.


----------



## mcascio

Greenster said:


> Thank you so much for sharing your build with us.


You bet Greenster. I'm honored to be your first post on this forum.


----------



## mcascio

I upgraded to the Denon AVR-4520CI back in January, but never got around to posting pictures I took of it compared to my Onkyo 3008.

I really wanted to take advantage of the Denon's 11.2 capabilities.

The Denon is a bit shallower in depth. The sound is different to me than the Onkyo. It's almost a bit crisper or sharper. Not necessarily better or worse, but just sounds different.

I also wanted the ability to save the Audyssey settings to my local hard drive; however, it took about 12 tries before I finally got one that saved properly. I recently updated the firmware so maybe that will improve the reliability. The Onkyo seemed to have more options for listening modes too.

I'm still debating whether to keep the Onkyo 3008 and use it for the Rec Room area (I've got the Onkyo 609 for that space right now). I like the idea of keeping it around in case I ever need to send the Denon in for a repair, I'll have a backup ready to go.

Here are the pics.


----------



## bamabum

Do you use the iPhone app for the denon?

I hope they release a firmware soon mine locks up the receiver occasionally.


----------



## mcascio

bamabum said:


> Do you use the iPhone app for the denon?
> 
> I hope they release a firmware soon mine locks up the receiver occasionally.


I haven't used their iPhone app. I dabbled with the Android app briefly. But nothing extensive at the moment enough to know for sure whether there are any lockups.


I'm pretty sure there was a firmware update not too long ago.


----------



## mcascio

My sump alarm has gone off twice in the past few weeks. The float didn't seem to be obstructed and I didn't see anything floating in the sump so it leads me to believe my main sump may be failing. If I pushed the vertical float down and then back up again it fired just fine.
I've had this Little Giant for about 3 years now. Fortunately I'm still under warranty. Little Giant is sending out replacement parts to see if that resolves the problem the failing switch. We've had a lot of rain lately and my sump has been running quite a bit so it's been getting worked out for sure. 

With the warmer weather and a need to have a better backup plan in place...I finally routed the backup sump drain underground and away from the house. Thanks to forum members for giving me ideas on how the parts to do this.


----------



## mcascio

*Best Home Theater $25,000 to $75,000 Gold Winner: Cinemar*

Hey everyone. I'm pretty stoked. Just found out recently that my theater won Electronic House's Home of the Year for 2013 in the Best Home Theater, $25k - $75k category.
http://www.electronichouse.com/article/theater_shakes_with_112_surround_sound_d-box_motion_simulator

Even took the Gold award.

On top of that, another Cinemar user took Gold for his Home Theater in the $75k - $150k category:
http://www.electronichouse.com/arti...tem_takes_high-performance_theater_up_a_notch


----------



## cavchameleon

mcascio said:


> *Best Home Theater $25,000 to $75,000 Gold Winner: Cinemar*
> 
> Hey everyone. I'm pretty stoked. Just found out recently that my theater won Electronic House's Home of the Year for 2013 in the Best Home Theater, $25k - $75k category.
> http://www.electronichouse.com/article/theater_shakes_with_112_surround_sound_d-box_motion_simulator
> 
> Even took the Gold award.
> 
> On top of that, another Cinemar user took Gold for his Home Theater in the $75k - $150k category:
> http://www.electronichouse.com/arti...tem_takes_high-performance_theater_up_a_notch


CONGRATS!!!!!:clap:


----------



## Greenster

That is awesome Mario. Congrats. You deserve it.


----------



## Prof.

Congratulations Mario..You certainly deserve it! :TT


----------



## MrAngles

Congratulations! Not a big surprise though, your theater is awesome.


----------



## ALMFamily

That is awesome Mario - congrats! :clap:


----------



## pyrohusband

Awesome accomplishment Mario. I sure wish I could see your theatre in person. The photos I am sure do it no justice.


----------



## HTip

Congrats! That's quite a big honor, Mario :T and well deserved too :TT


----------



## AlphaPie

Breath taking build.


----------



## mcascio

Thanks guys for all the compliments. This award makes up for me not winning the Powerball. 



pyrohusband said:


> Awesome accomplishment Mario. I sure wish I could see your theatre in person. The photos I am sure do it no justice.



pyrohusband. Let me know if you are ever in the area. 

I still have to get around to hosting a meet and greet here sometime so everyone can talk shop.


----------



## mcascio

I was a little bummed out the other day. I had bought a Nexus wireless monitor a few months back to connect to my Generac generator. I was all amped up to install it last weekend. Got everything disaseembled and then realized my insides didn't look like the pictures in the manual. It turns out that my Generac model wasn't compatible after all. I bought the Generac in 2010, but it turned out that it was built a few months prior to the newer model that came out in the middle of 2010.

So it looks like I'll just have to keep listening for the weekly startup tests to verify that it is operational.


----------



## daddieo

With where you live, is the fiberglass insulation allowed by code to be installed onto concrete basement walls? I live in DE and it is not allowed due to condensation and capilary moisture issues. Only ridgid foam on foundation walls or rockwool for interior walls. The only place fiberglass insulation is allowed is in flooring bays. Not trying to freak you out or cause concern but just curious


----------



## MrAngles

daddieo said:


> With where you live, is the fiberglass insulation allowed by code to be installed onto concrete basement walls? I live in DE and it is not allowed due to condensation and capilary moisture issues. Only ridgid foam on foundation walls or rockwool for interior walls. The only place fiberglass insulation is allowed is in flooring bays. Not trying to freak you out or cause concern but just curious


Don't know about where Mario lives, but in Des Moines fiberglass is allowed on the concrete, that's actually what the builders put up in my new construction home last year. I replaced it with rigid foam when I started framing the walls though.


----------



## Horrorfan33

BIG CONGRATS!!!..That's Awesome!! :clap: :T
It is truly an amazing theater!!


----------



## mcascio

daddieo said:


> With where you live, is the fiberglass insulation allowed by code to be installed onto concrete basement walls? I live in DE and it is not allowed due to condensation and capilary moisture issues. Only ridgid foam on foundation walls or rockwool for interior walls. The only place fiberglass insulation is allowed is in flooring bays. Not trying to freak you out or cause concern but just curious


It's ok in my area. There was an air gap between the insulation and the concrete so it can breathe and prevent condensation.

Although I would have gone with rigid foam, but the insulation was better for sound insulation than rigid foam.

I did tear out all the old insulation along the exposed basement walls and we went with spray foam. I would have opted for this in the theater, but it would have made things too rigid and would have again caused more problems with sound proofing.


----------



## mcascio

Horrorfan33 said:


> BIG CONGRATS!!!..That's Awesome!! :clap: :T
> It is truly an amazing theater!!


Thanks Horrorfan33. I really appreciate it.


----------



## AlexF

Mario, you've made an incredible theater, very beautiful and stylish! WOW! :clap:

*What program* did you use *for the 2D/3D design* of the room for this project? 

And I really love the *movie poster* in the hall. *What program or software* do you use for that? :bigsmile: Thanks for the advise


----------



## mcascio

AlexF said:


> Mario, you've made an incredible theater, very beautiful and stylish! WOW! :clap:
> 
> *What program* did you use *for the 2D/3D design* of the room for this project?
> 
> And I really love the *movie poster* in the hall. *What program or software* do you use for that? :bigsmile: Thanks for the advise


Thanks AlexF.

I used Lightwave 3D to design the room. 
http://www.newtek.com/

And I used our own automation and media management software to do the movie poster ala Cinemar's MainLobby / DVDLobby:
http://www.cinemarsolutions.com

We actually put together a home theater suite of software to help others get going with selecting/playing movies and building the movie poster integration. I'm happy to provide my movie poster scene files to anyone who is interested. Just PM or email me.

Hope that helps.


----------



## mcascio

We finally got around to developing a driver for the Panasonic AE8000U.

I plan to create a macro to completely power down the entire basement / theater after entertaining. So that includes all receivers, amps, projector, Russound, black lights, step lights, Movie Poster tv, ice maker, any ceiling lights on in the basement etc.

One thing I noticed is that the AE8000U doesn't seem to send back information to us when you power it on/off with the remote or issue input and picture mode changes. Has anyone else noticed this?


----------



## mcascio

Things actually ended up working out really well after testing things out even though the Panasonic didn't report back status if someone uses a physical IR remote to control it. I setup an event in the Cinemar control system to listen for the Panasonic power command which it then polls the projector for status...keeping it in sync with our system at all times.

But then I took it one step further.

Through the Harmony software, I disabled the Power command for the projector completely. And I now have our software listening for a generic IR code that powers everything on in the theater including the projector, russound zone, step lights, black lights, black light to 50%, Dune player, etc. Another generic ir code I listen for then sends a power off to all the equipment and shuts down all the room lighting. And because our software is doing all the turning on / off of the projector, it always knows the power status.

The reason I had to do this is because if someone turns on the theater from say upstairs via the Cinemar user interface and then walks down in to the theater and wants to switch to the harmony remote and selects Watch Movie...the projector doesn't have a discrete power on/off ir code, so the Harmony remote would essentially issue a power command and you end up with the onscreen prompt from the projector asking to power it off. So this won't happen now.

Now everything in the theater can be powered off from anywhere. My wife was pretty excited about this. My daughter has play dates where they watch a movie, so she can cue up a movie from upstairs and send the kids down to the theater to watch a movie without ever going down there.

When it's done, she can then hit a single button to power it all down and know for sure that the projector lights and all equipment powered off.


----------



## MrAngles

That's awesome. I won't be doing full software automation for a while due to cost, but I'm planning on getting a ir232 device for serial control since the ir commands for the 8000u are so bad. From the manual it looks like there are single-command codes for _almost_ everything I want, I just wish there was also a way to change the lamp mode to normal for 3d movies without going through the entire menu system.


----------



## mcascio

MrAngles said:


> That's awesome. I won't be doing full software automation for a while due to cost, but I'm planning on getting a ir232 device for serial control since the ir commands for the 8000u are so bad. From the manual it looks like there are single-command codes for _almost_ everything I want, I just wish there was also a way to change the lamp mode to normal for 3d movies without going through the entire menu system.


We just had a sale on the software last week. 

Yeah - I just reviewed the protocol and I don't see any way to change the lamp either. 

I tend to prefer different picture modes too for 3d animated movies vs regular film. I may setup a rule to automatically switch the picture mode based on the type of movie.

That looks like a neat device.

I'm using the USBIRT for listening for incoming IR codes and then translating them through our software to do what I need.


----------



## bamabum

Just looking at your thread again tonight thinking of how much I learned ...

I really appreciate your detail and what you shared. It gave me so much inspiration.

Thank you!


----------



## mcascio

bamabum said:


> Just looking at your thread again tonight thinking of how much I learned ...
> 
> I really appreciate your detail and what you shared. It gave me so much inspiration.
> 
> Thank you!


bamabum,

Thanks so much for taking the time to post here. Forums like this are a great place to share information and certainly learn a lot along the way. I'm glad I could contribute to the experience in some small way.


----------



## mcascio

I'm looking to take on building a DIY sub as outdoor projects move to indoors this winter.

I ordered the DIYSoundGroup Sealed Flat Pack 4 cu ft Subwoofer Box:
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/subwoofer-flatpacks-2/sealed-subwoofer-flatpacks/4-sub-flat-pack.html

For a driver, I'm going with the Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" Rerence HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-472&scqty=1

For the amp, I'll be using the Behringer EP4000:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=248-748

I was going to use the square speaker termincal with Gold Banana Binding Posts:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-284&scqty=1

I'm still a complete novice in this department - so treat me nice.


----------



## Greenster

From looking at your HT build, I am sure that your sub will turn out to be awesome.


----------



## cuzed2

mcascio said:


> I'm looking to take on building a DIY sub as outdoor projects move to indoors this winter.
> 
> I ordered the DIYSoundGroup Sealed Flat Pack 4 cu ft Subwoofer Box:
> http://www.diysoundgroup.com/subwoofer-flatpacks-2/sealed-subwoofer-flatpacks/4-sub-flat-pack.html
> 
> For a driver, I'm going with the Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" Rerence HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm:
> http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-472&scqty=1
> 
> For the amp, I'll be using the Behringer EP4000:
> http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=248-748
> 
> I was going to use the square speaker termincal with Gold Banana Binding Posts:
> http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-284&scqty=1
> 
> I'm still a complete novice in this department - so treat me nice.


Mario,
If my experience, with the DIY SEOS kits are any indication; You are going to really enjoy building this kit.
Or are you building more than one


----------



## mcascio

cuzed2 said:


> Mario,
> If my experience, with the DIY SEOS kits are any indication; You are going to really enjoy building this kit.
> Or are you building more than one


My original game plan was to order one, and then order another later if I liked the results.

My plans changed after I saw how much shipping was through Parts-Express. So I ended up ordering a complete 2nd Kit from Parts-Express when ordering my Dayton 18" driver in order to get Free Shipping.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-7094

Essentially I ended up saving a $100 off the second kit with driver so I thought it made sense.


These subs will fit nicely in the front wall cabinets but also allow me to play with the idea of putting them in the back corners of the room. Although I'd have to build smaller Subs for the rear corners for them to be permanent.


----------



## cuzed2

Mario,

Sounds like a good plan - will be very interested to see how these turn out!


----------



## jtl

Mario,

Could you pls confirm the black paint colour used on the columns & mouldings and also the ceiling? I checked the Benjamin Moore site and there are 52 shades of black. Would it be Black PM-6?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## mcascio

jtl said:


> Mario,
> 
> Could you pls confirm the black paint colour used on the columns & mouldings and also the ceiling? I checked the Benjamin Moore site and there are 52 shades of black. Would it be Black PM-6?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Hi jtl,

The only thing I see on the can that the paint store wrote on it is Black. So I'd have to assume it's the PM-9 Black on the Benjamin Moore website.

I used:
Benjamin Moore Regal Eggshell Finish Black (Ultra Base N319 4B) on everything but the ceiling. I used Flat Black for the ceiling.


----------



## jtl

Hi Mario,

Thanks so much for the quick reply. Your home theater is awesome.


----------



## mcascio

Here's my adventures in building two sealed 4 cu ft DIY Flat Packs with the Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 ohm subwoofers. As of this writing I completely finished one of them. I'm a complete novice in this area...so be gentle.

2' clamps were all that I would have needed for this project instead of 3' clamps.

Here's a quick parts list for the project:
Dayton Audio 18" Reference Series HO Subwoofer and Cabinet Package
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-7094

Dewalt 3-Amp Orbital Power Sander
http://www.lowes.com/pd_117946-70-D...l=1&currentURL=?Ntt=orbital+sander&facetInfo=

BIN Primer (tinted gray or as dark as possible)
http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...imers-sealers/bin-primer/p-1963340-c-8028.htm

Sandblaster Premium Abrasive (For baffle area and edges)
http://www.menards.com/main/paint/s...r-trade-premium-abrasive/p-1419949-c-8193.htm

TiteBond II
http://www.menards.com/main/home-decor/cter
ts/glue/wood-glue/titebond-ii-premium-wood-glue-32-ounce/p-1956875-c-7176.htm

Rust-Oleum Flat back Spray Paint
http://www.menards.com/main/home-de...over-2x-spray-flat-black/p-1956007-c-8050.htm

Truck Bed Boating
http://www.menards.com/main/home-de...-oleum-truck-bed-coating/p-1963108-c-8043.htm

MH Ready Patch
http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...ht-spackling/ready-patch/p-1956277-c-8201.htm

1/4"-20 Press in Wood Inserts x 8
http://www.menards.com/main/tools-h...ess-in-wood-insert-1-pcs/p-1445518-c-8921.htm

1/4"-20 x 1-1/2" Socket Cap Screws x 8
http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...-socket-cap-screws-1-pcs/p-1445723-c-8937.htm

1/4" Flat Washer - 18 PC
http://www.menards.com/main/tools-h...lat/1-4-flat-washer-18pc/p-1827816-c-8945.htm

Puddy Knife
http://www.menards.com/main/paint/p...y-knife-with-hammer-head/p-1496322-c-8082.htm

3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive
http://www.menards.com/main/paint/a...-super-77-spray-adhesive/p-1420001-c-7923.htm

Acousta-Stuf Polyfill Speaker Cabinet Damping Material 5 lb
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-330

Gold 12 AWG 1/4" Female Disconnect 5 Pair
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=095-810

Square Speaker Terminal Cup 4" Gold Banana Binding Post
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-284

3" Hole Saw
http://www.menards.com/main/tools-h...-advanced-edge-hole-saw/p-1735683-c-10085.htm

DIYSoundGroup Flat Packs all boxed up. TIP: Save the boxes. They will come in handy during spray painting:










Really packaged well...no damage to any of the parts










I started by laying out all the pieces onto a table










I did a dry fit test to see how things came together.































































Then I brushed off all the edges and tops/bottoms of the pieces to get all the dust off of them









Here's the process of gluing (Titebond II) and assembling the flat packs.




































I used this rafter angle square to help make sure everything was perpendicular.




































I sanded the edges say they were completely flush:



























I sanded smooth the inner edge where the driver sits:









Next, I dry fit the very top piece and clamped it down tight:









I marked the center so I could get the driver screws to be aligned with the center as well.









And also drew a straight edge to make sure when I reassemble that the two top pieces line up:









Insert the driver:









Predrill the holes for the driver through both top pieces. I used this rafter angle square to help make sure my holes were perpendicular to the top. A variable speed drill at a slow speed is all you need:









I used these two 1/4" bits. The one on the right allow me to find a perfect center to start with. So I just started with that bit, then switched to the other since it worked much better on the MDF:









Then I threaded the socket head cap screws just to ensure I had it right:



























I made sure to mark the TOP since you could possibly rotate the piece and not get perfect alignment. I'd recommend marking South, East, West and North as well:









Here's a good way to remove the driver by sliding the top boards:










Here's my make shift stop for my 3/8" drill bit:









I drilled on the under side of square edged top piece again using the rafter angle square to make sure I was drilling straight and then only went in about a 1/2":









See - straight!









I then threaded some of the socket head cap screws to lock the two top pieces in place:









I the put on a little Titebond II wood glue on the Press In Wood Insert:









I cleaned out the bottom of the 3/8" holes:









Make sure the Press in Wood Insert is pointed in the right direction and put a 1/4" washer between the socket head cap screw and the mdf. Then slowly start turning. Try to keep the sharp edges of the insert away from the edge. I did notice the mdf pushing out a tiny bit.









When this did happen, I put some extra glue around where it pushed out:









Here's what it looks like when the inserts are completely done:









I caulked the inside corners:










Finish gluing the top square edged piece:


















Glue the top and just watch out for the screw insert areas:


















Start tightening all the socket head cap screws:


















After drying, I marked the center area of the 3" hole for the speaker terminals. I debated going with the SpeakOns, but I really liked that I could get these tighter to the wall if I needed to:



























Great way to get the terminal square with the edge of the speaker when the cabinet is actually finished:









Here are the inside terminal connections that I crimped on:









Next it was time to install the PolyFill using 3M Super 77 spray. I used about .75 lb per cu foot.









I rounded all the edges to 1/2" and sanded smooth down to 220 using an orbital sander. I used a 320 grit sanding sponge pad for the rounded edges.


















Primed using BIN Zinnser:









I wasn't happy with the edges so I used some wood glue. I needed a new batch of MH Ready Patch otherwise I would have used that instead:









Sanded smooth in between 2-3 coats of primer:










Ready for spray paint:









Sprayed two coats of Rustoleum Flat Black all at once. It took 1 full can:


















Then waited 30 minutes and inserted 1/4" dowels to plug the speaker screw holes from being filled in with the Bed Liner spray:









Then sprayed the 2 coats of Rustoleum bed liner spray - I put some foam on a 5 gallon bucket and set the cabinet on top of it. It took 1 full can:



























I waited several hours and then flipped the cabinet to finish the bottom. I set it over the top of the 5 gallon bucket and grabbing the framing inside the cabinet and the 3" center hole:


















The installed the speaker terminals with screws:



























Filled .75 lbs of Polyfill per cubic foot so 3 lbs for this 4 cubic foot cabinet:









Placing the heavy driver onto the cabinet and lining up the holes was not difficult at all when I used one 1/4" dowel as my guide to set the driver over:


















The finished product:


















I'm really satisfied with the Rustoleum Spray Bed Liner product combined with the first two coats of Flat Black. It looks very similar to an older Sony subwoofer I have...although rougher. I called up Linex and they could have sprayed each one for $60 each. Unfortunately, I had already primed the cabinet, and they said I would have to wait 30 days for the primer to cure. I think I might have preferred to go the Linex route for simplicity and no mess. The spray mist got everywhere in the garage. The Linex spray would be tougher but probably not quite as attractive as the Rustoleum bed liner.

I'll be trying out the Behringer EP4000 to power both subs:


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## dougc

They look great Mario! I am a fan of using the truck bed liner too. I think it gives a more refined look when compared to Duratex, which looks more like a PA speaker finish. The only thing that I could suggest is to use some sort of sealant around the terminal cup from the inside, such as PL or any caulk. The air in that box will find it's way out cheat you out of some sound.


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## ALMFamily

dougc said:


> They look great Mario! I am a fan of using the truck bed liner too. I think it gives a more refined look when compared to Duratex, which looks more like a PA speaker finish. The only thing that I could suggest is to use some sort of sealant around the terminal cup from the inside, such as PL or any caulk. The air in that box will find it's way out cheat you out of some sound.


Looks great Mario - you should make a thread in the DIY subwoofer forum for these!


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## Prof.

Beautiful job Mario (as always) and a very detailed construction process..Well done! :T


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## mcascio

dougc said:


> They look great Mario! I am a fan of using the truck bed liner too. I think it gives a more refined look when compared to Duratex, which looks more like a PA speaker finish. The only thing that I could suggest is to use some sort of sealant around the terminal cup from the inside, such as PL or any caulk. The air in that box will find it's way out cheat you out of some sound.


Yeah. The Duratex looked like it would be good if I was toting it around town, but not for my home theater.

The terminal cup actually came with a rubber gasket, I actually had to sand the hole a little larger to get the terminal cup to go in...so it's a tight squeeze. But I can always add some caulk around it next time I take out the driver.


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## mcascio

ALMFamily said:


> Looks great Mario - you should make a thread in the DIY subwoofer forum for these!



Thanks Joe. Just reposted the above in the DIY Sealed Subwoofer build section.


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## mcascio

Prof. said:


> Beautiful job Mario (as always) and a very detailed construction process..Well done! :T


Thanks Prof! The flat packs really pushed me to tackle this one. It was a huge time saver.


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## Owen Bartley

Mario, your attention to detail really is second to none. It's almost superhuman! Another inspirational build on these subs, and I hope they work out great in your room.


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## Buck64d

Love the room....the wife says I can finish ours off as long is it looks as clean and polished as yours. Over the next couple weeks I plan on starting at it again.

Couple questions if you don’t mind...I tried to find them in the search function.

1) What size MDF did you use for your columns and the lower wall panels 1/2 or 3/4? 

2) On the lower panels would it benefit any to have the center squares cut out and place Acoustic material behind them then cover it up with fabric? 

3) What did you do for acoustic control behind the upper portion of your side and ball wall?

Thanks
Buck


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## kevin360

Mario,

While looking over this thread again, I noticed that I haven't commented on your gorgeous theater build. I'm quite sure the reason is that the right superlatives failed to come to mind – a problem that still confronts me. I'm not sure which is the more impressive, your attention to detail, or the number of details you covered. It's staggering – downright mind numbing. Perhaps, the word I should use is monumental, but even that fails to express how extraordinary I think it is. Pardon the following string of complimentary adjectives, but they (and more) are definitely appropriate – arresting, beautiful, cool, dramatic, exceptional, fantastic, grand, handsome, impassioned, jaw-dropping, killer, lavish, majestic, neat, outstanding, phenomenal, quintessential, ravishing, stunning, tantalizing, unsurpassed, vaunted, wonderful, xenodochial, yearn-inducing, and in my eyes, it's the zenith! :clap:

Okay, I cheated on a few of those, but there just aren't that many words that start with x, y, or z, and j was a tough one too. Zenith isn't an adjective and xenodochial literally means friendly to strangers, but I figure it could pass for welcoming or inviting, which that room sure looks to be!


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## mcascio

Owen Bartley said:


> Mario, your attention to detail really is second to none. It's almost superhuman! Another inspirational build on these subs, and I hope they work out great in your room.


Sorry for the lack of response guys. Busy with work, family and holidays. Also, spending the weekend enjoying the theater.

Thanks as usual Owen for following along!


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## mcascio

Buck64d said:


> Love the room....the wife says I can finish ours off as long is it looks as clean and polished as yours. Over the next couple weeks I plan on starting at it again.
> 
> Couple questions if you don’t mind...I tried to find them in the search function.
> 
> 1) What size MDF did you use for your columns and the lower wall panels 1/2 or 3/4?
> 
> 2) On the lower panels would it benefit any to have the center squares cut out and place Acoustic material behind them then cover it up with fabric?
> 
> 3) What did you do for acoustic control behind the upper portion of your side and ball wall?
> 
> Thanks
> Buck


Hi Buck,

Congrats on the sign off from the wife. Sometimes that's the hardest part of construction. 
1) I used 3/4" MDF for all the columns.
2) I considered that and even rendered examples, but ended up not doing it. It would have pushed the walls in further, plus with little kids, I was afraid they would get damaged too easily at that height.
3) I used recycled denim on the behind all the fabric on the side and back walls.

Hope that helps.


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## mcascio

kevin360 said:


> Mario,
> 
> While looking over this thread again, I noticed that I haven't commented on your gorgeous theater build. I'm quite sure the reason is that the right superlatives failed to come to mind – a problem that still confronts me. I'm not sure which is the more impressive, your attention to detail, or the number of details you covered. It's staggering – downright mind numbing. Perhaps, the word I should use is monumental, but even that fails to express how extraordinary I think it is. Pardon the following string of complimentary adjectives, but they (and more) are definitely appropriate – arresting, beautiful, cool, dramatic, exceptional, fantastic, grand, handsome, impassioned, jaw-dropping, killer, lavish, majestic, neat, outstanding, phenomenal, quintessential, ravishing, stunning, tantalizing, unsurpassed, vaunted, wonderful, xenodochial, yearn-inducing, and in my eyes, it's the zenith! :clap:
> 
> Okay, I cheated on a few of those, but there just aren't that many words that start with x, y, or z, and j was a tough one too. Zenith isn't an adjective and xenodochial literally means friendly to strangers, but I figure it could pass for welcoming or inviting, which that room sure looks to be!


Hi Kevin,
This is probably one of the most memorable compliment posts I've read. Very thoughtful of you to run through the entire alphabet to find words to describe my theater and build. I certainly appreciate it and hope there's some helpful information in there for everyone.


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## Macattack

Very impressive build and result. Congratulations! 

Beyond the result itself, which is incredible, I am envious of your collection of the coolest set of toys (tools) on the planet, needed for the build


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## mcascio

Macattack said:


> Very impressive build and result. Congratulations!
> 
> Beyond the result itself, which is incredible, I am envious of your collection of the coolest set of toys (tools) on the planet, needed for the build


Thanks Macattack. It's nice that I've built a nice portfolio of tools to call from. Definitely makes me want to do more and more household projects. I especially like the rolling cart for my Dewalt Miter saw. It really makes it easy to pull it out of the garage just to make a single cut.


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## mcascio

With Andy and Craig (Forum members) stopping over this weekend, I got the itch to enhance the theater a bit. Craig had mentioned that he put his bass shakers on a board, and then zip tied them to the springs underneath his Berkline chairs. This got me to thinking that I would at least test zip tieing them to the springs themselves to see how that felt. 

In order to avoid the bass shaker making contact with the center bar that reclines the seat, I had to put the bass shaker on the left and right side of the seat. Otherwise, when you plunk down on the seat, you would hear/feel the bass shaker hit the center bar. I initially tested just one bass shaker, but with it off center, I could tell. So I ended up adding one on each side. It definitely shook things up, but the energy didn't translate to the rest of the frame and back of the chair. I wasn't sure I truly liked the way it felt. 

I had one chair that I had put a shaker underneath, mounted to a board that also mounted to the entire frame, before the theater was even finished, but I wasn't sure I was going to do it to other seats. I didn't like if you plunked down hard on the seat, you would bottom out. But given I had forgot that it was there, I felt no one would even no the difference. So I plugged that one in as well and noticed that with that method, the entire frame shook producing a similar effect as when the bass is really rumbling in the room. So I decided to run with that method. I had one spare board that I precut a while back so I thought I'd document it for anyone else interested. I didn't test Craigs method of mounting it to a board and then zip tie it to the springs, but my theory was that unless you physically connect to the frame, you won't transfer any energy to the back of the chair and or arms.

With the D-Box in the front, I was focused primarily on the enhancing the back row with bass shakers. 

Here's the board I had made a while back with some angles cut out to help fit better underneath the seat.
Dimensions: 21 3/16" x 7 3/16" with 2 1/4" angles cut out on each corner









I used the Kregg Jig and 1 1/4" screws to connect to the frame.

The bass shaker was then mounted to the center of the frame using 1" screws:









Here's the board and shaker mounted to the frame:









It's mounted just above the brackets and the bass shaker doesn't physically make contact to the chair reclining bar.



























As of now, I still have one chair with two bass shakers zip tied to the springs, and two other chairs with the shaker mounted to a board and then onto the frame. This summer, I'll probably complete the back row. However, I may just do two of the four in case someone prefers the less tactile experience.

I plan to add an Insteon ApplicanLinc to the receiver that powers the Bass Shakers so I can have a single button on my touchscreen and remote to toggle them on/off. I'd rather not have them on all the time, especially if no one is even sitting in the back row.


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## ALMFamily

We have two other forum members close to us?! Cool!

Nicely done as always Mario - that has got to be quite the experience for anyone seeing your room for the first time!


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## Greenster

Mario
Thanks for sharing your build with us. It really has helped me with every area of my own theater. I think it is fair to say that your post has become my " how to build a Home theater" go to reference. I am quite a bit slower at my build than you are but I am slowly getting there. I am curious as to how you will feel about the transducers down the road a bit. I want to add them to mine but have read mixed reviews on them an need to buy seating first. Lol. 

I love your stage and have been mulling over my design for a while now. I love your design and would love to copy yours a bit. How do you like yours? Would you change anything if you did it again? 

Thanks again for being such a valuable asset to this forum.


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## jtl

Mario,

Can you pls confirm the finished width of the columns. On a previous sketch it indicates 17" width but they look wider in the photos.

Thanks in advance.


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## mcascio

ALMFamily said:


> We have two other forum members close to us?! Cool!
> 
> Nicely done as always Mario - that has got to be quite the experience for anyone seeing your room for the first time!


Thanks. One was in Racine and the other came from Illinois. I probably should have let you know but the schedule was ever changing and last minute.


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## mcascio

Greenster said:


> Mario
> Thanks for sharing your build with us. It really has helped me with every area of my own theater. I think it is fair to say that your post has become my " how to build a Home theater" go to reference. I am quite a bit slower at my build than you are but I am slowly getting there. I am curious as to how you will feel about the transducers down the road a bit. I want to add them to mine but have read mixed reviews on them an need to buy seating first. Lol.
> 
> I love your stage and have been mulling over my design for a while now. I love your design and would love to copy yours a bit. How do you like yours? Would you change anything if you did it again?
> 
> Thanks again for being such a valuable asset to this forum.


Thanks Greenster. I've been really happy with the stage. Nothing that I can think of that I would change. I'll have to give some feedback on the bass shakers once I've sat through a whole movie.


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## mcascio

jtl said:


> Mario,
> 
> Can you pls confirm the finished width of the columns. On a previous sketch it indicates 17" width but they look wider in the photos.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Hi jtl,

The width of the columns are 17". This was based on the size of my speakers and also general looks. They probably look wider due to the wide angle lens.


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## jtl

Hi Mario,

Appreciate the quick reply. As many others have stated, your home theatre build is a model for many of us to follow. Fantastic job!

jtl (Joey)


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## jdhatfield

Mario, I just had to post and say that I really enjoyed going through the thread start to finish. What an amazing build!


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## jtl

Mario,

When you constructed the MDF columns, did you do any electric sanding on the outside corners or just hand sand. As you mentioned earlier it is very difficult to get both pieces exactly even when using the "Kreg system. I see you used some filler but was curious about how much sanding to do. I am hesitant to sand the smooth flat surface of the MDF board.

Joey


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## mcascio

jdhatfield said:


> Mario, I just had to post and say that I really enjoyed going through the thread start to finish. What an amazing build!


Thanks jdhatfield for the kind words!


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## mcascio

jtl said:


> Mario,
> 
> When you constructed the MDF columns, did you do any electric sanding on the outside corners or just hand sand. As you mentioned earlier it is very difficult to get both pieces exactly even when using the "Kreg system. I see you used some filler but was curious about how much sanding to do. I am hesitant to sand the smooth flat surface of the MDF board.
> 
> Joey


It's been a while, but I'm pretty sure I used a fine sanding pad for the corners of the column to take out the sharp edge. I don't recall using a router on those edges.

I did use an orbital sander with a fine grit to take the fuzz out of the sides of the MDF.

One tip that someone else pointed out was to let the face edge run past the other adjoining sides, and then use a flush edge router bit to make it flush with the side.


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## mcascio

I've posted some REW measurements that I took with the UMM-6 this past weekend in my REW thread if anyone wants to provide some input:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/rew-forum/62871-rewing-cinemar-theater-2.html#post675656


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## mcascio

Hi everyone.

I got the itch to take on a wood working project and thought I'd post it here...sorry...a bit off topic.

I finished up a couple weeks ago a raised garden bed. It's about 20' x 20' x 2' tall. It's sunken in to a hill. So I purchased a rotary laser level and took measurements at each corner point where the beds where going to be placed. This allowed me to plug it into my 3D model and figure out exactly how far down I needed to dig a trench to set the beds into and keep everything nice and level. I wanted the inside area to be sunken into the sloping hill. So there is a step down into the raised bed garden on one side, but then a walk out at the bottom of the slope at ground level. Everything within the center rubber mulched area of the raised bed garden was carved out so it's 2' all around and optimal height for gardening. I was able to convert a sprinkler zone specifically to the garden area. So it will be easy to automate the watering on a timed schedule. It was my first time also using a HPLV spray gun. Looking forward to planting season next year.


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## HTB2015

Wow, that looks really nice! What is the black material you laid down called? What did you use for a barrier? We have a garden and were thinking about crushed rock but that material looks nice.


----------



## mcascio

HTB2015 said:


> Wow, that looks really nice! What is the black material you laid down called? What did you use for a barrier? We have a garden and were thinking about crushed rock but that material looks nice.


Thanks so much.

It's actually a dark brown Rubberific mulch. It's rather expensive, but my goal is to transition all of our landscaping to it over the next few years so I don't have to deal with adding mulch each year because the color fades. We recently converted a 1/4 of our landscaping to it this year and the color is vibrant and really makes the plants pop. The outer edge is a rolled up Rubberific border mulch. Underneath the Rubberific mulch is a black weed barrier. The Rubberific is easy on the knee's and feet too.


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## chrapladm

Looks awesome. I am just finishing up a fencing screening the wife wanted for our backyard. Never done it before so it was a learning experience. Not nearly as pretty and perfect as yours but another outdoor project none the less.:T


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## Prof.

That looks like a very nice well thought out garden bed Mario..Well done :T


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## mcascio

Side Project Alert!

I'd been looking to solve a problem in our basement living room area where we didn't have any end tables to put drinks on because of our L-shaped couch.

I wanted something that could sit on the Ottoman as well as the couch.

I had looked around for serving trays to set on our Ottoman but none of them had cup holders that I could find. 
Our carpet is pretty think so having some type of standing tray that slides under the couch wasn't viable nor attractive to me.

I decided to put my woodworking to task again and came up with this design. It holds up to 4 drinks which is perfect for socializing. The center area can hold magazines or a full size dinner plate or handy for a friendly game of dice. There is a lip around the top to help contain any spills.
There are recessed areas on the sides to allow your hand to slip under the tray and pick it up easily.

Just about done with the sanding and then it will be ready for stain. I'm happy with the results and anxious to put it to work.


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## daddieo

nice design and the color goes well with your existing decor


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## NBPk402

Great idea!


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## phillihp23

Mario,

what did you use to mount the tv vertical? What size tv did you use? (Your digital movie poster).


----------



## NightSkyMurals

Nice thread, as would be expected, Mario


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## robbo266317

Great idea and the splash lip is ingenious.

What are the black drink holder inserts made of, are they something you bought off-the-shelf or made yourself?


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## NightSkyMurals

Knowing Mario... he probably made them himself. 




robbo266317 said:


> Great idea and the splash lip is ingenious.
> 
> What are the black drink holder inserts made of, are they something you bought off-the-shelf or made yourself?


----------



## albe

That's insane! What a build, what a thread. ENJOY!


----------

