# Which amp and how to connect?



## Jetjones

Hey guys, I am looking to replace the amp in my MFW-15, which just recently bit the dust, and I have been looking into some pro-amps for replacements. I figure that I can leave the stock amp in place and just connect the driver directly to the binding post then go from my amp to the binding post on the back of the sub. The amps that I am considering are:

Behringer iNuke 1000
Peavy PV-1500

The Peavy is an older amp that I can pick up for under $100 bucks. It is very heavy and seems to be built like a tank. If I go with the Peavy PV-1500 or the Behringer iNuke 1000, how would I hook these up? (I have never used pro-gear and am unsure about how to connect). How would I adjust the crossover in order to intergrate these with my other speakers? Someone mentioned that I would need something called an F-Mod, but I am unsure of what this is. Could someone out there please help with my questions?


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## Jetjones

Bump


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Hey Jet,

You’ve already mentioned that you intend to connect the sub’s driver directly to some binding posts on the cabinet. That’s a good first step; that way you’ll have a straight connection to the driver, bypassing the sub’s internal electronics.

As for the connections, there’s nothing to it: RCA-1/4” cable from your AVR’s sub output to the amp input; speaker cable from the amp output to the sub's binding posts. That’s it. Crossover duties are handled by your AVR.










Regards, 
Wayne


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## Jetjones

Which one of the 2 amps would be the better choice, the Peavey PV-1500, the Behringer iNuke 1000 (not the DSP version), or a Crown XLS-202?


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

The folks at our Subwoofer Amplfiers would be better able to answer that question. :T

That said, the MFW-15’s original amp was 350 watts, so that should give you an idea of what you’re looking for. However, you don’t necessarily need an amp that gets 350 watts per channel– many pro amps can be set up for bridged mono operation to get double the power (or close to it). You do need to measure the driver’s impedance with an ohm meter to make sure it’s compatible with the amp you choose.

Regards, 
Wayne


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## Jetjones

Thanks for the reply, Wayne. If I do end up soldiering the driver to the binding post, how would I connect the amp to the binding post? The Peavey amp has what looks like some screw down connectors that look like what is found on a car audio amplifier. I am not sure what kind of connectors the Behringer has? Any advise on how to wire the amp to the binding post?

Also, what is an F-Mod and where can I find one?


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

An F-mod is an in-line passive device (that connects in the signal line) that filters out the highs or lows. Your receiver’s bass management takes care of that, so you don’t need it.

The screw terminals on the Peavey is an input barrier strip that is commonly used for professional installations. You’ll probably just want to use the standard 1/4” inputs.



Jetjones said:


> Any advise on how to wire the amp to the binding post?


It should be just like connecting any receiver to any home speaker you’ve ever used: Run a speaker cable from the amp’s binding posts to the binding posts on the sub. If not, then there’s something unusual about the connections on the sub. If that’s the case, I’d have to see a picture to help.

Regards, 
Wayne


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## WooferHound

To connect to the speaker outputs on most professional amps you will need a Double Banana Plug.
Note the tab on one side of the connector, that is the Ground or Common.


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## ejbragg

Jet,

I have owned several Peavey amps. Peavey has their uses. My experience is that they are not necessarily the best sounding amps, but they do take abuse pretty well. And for the price, they are really hard to beat. But one thing I have to rule against, and that is buying a Peavey amp for subwoofing. I have blown 3 peavey amps by attempting to run low end though them. Their lesser expensive output transistors just cannot handle the current (watts) their specs claim. They fry under that sort of abuse. For midrange or upper freqs, they're fine and they'll take a pounding.

I have no experience with the Behringer amp you mentioned, but I would guess it would be similar to the Peavey. The manufacturers of these amps cut their costs by saving material - none of the beefy isolation transformers or hefty transistors found in other amps, such as Crown.

I strongly suggest you go with Crown for this endeavor. Those amps are fairly unstoppable, and they can actually handle the specs the manufacturer claims, at all frequencies - and then some. They generally claim less than the amp is capable of, just to be safe. They also just plain sound better, especially in the low end (likely because they're not current-starved).


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## WooferHound

Peavey Fanboy here . . .
I use Peavey amplifiers every day and own 6 of them. They spec their amps more accurately than any other amp I know. They work smoothly down to 10 hz and they will pound your guts. You are correct about the gear being very tough. I have had bad experiences with Behringer equipment dieing prematurely, but they sound fine. Here are some examples of the sound systems that I use these amplifiers with...
http://wooferhound.home.mindspring.com/sound.htm


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## goyop

If you haven't decided yet, I suggest the Crown amp. They have been in use forever and are super tough. Especially if it has any protection features built in. Peavey is definitely a lower quality amp. You won't find one in a rack in a studio. Behringer is good but I have only used their processors, not amps.

Good luck.


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## Jetjones

How do you guys feel about the Crown d-75a? I am considering purchasing a pair of these to power my main LCR in my theater room. I came across a great deal on a pair. If I go with the Crown d-75a, would I need a signal amplifier to bring the voltage up on the pre-outs of my Denon AVR-3312? Is this a good amp and will it play nice with my Denon avr-3312?


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## jackfish

The Crown D-75A offers no advantage over the power of your Denon receiver as it offers only 40 wpc or 110 watts bridged. The best deal in the world doesn't mean a thing if it doesn't improve your system.


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## ejbragg

The Crown XLS1500 might be a good place to start looking. It may well be more than you need, but for only $350, you get a solid amp and an efficient 1500 W.


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## Jetjones

ejbragg said:


> The Crown XLS1500 might be a good place to start looking. It may well be more than you need, but for only $350, you get a solid amp and an efficient 1500 W.



This amp is on my short list at the moment. Also looking at the Behringer iNuke-1000 or iNuke-3000. How is the DSP that is built into the iNukeDSP series? The iNukes with the built in DSP seem to be more expensive thsn the standard iNukes. 

I have dropped that lower powered Crown amp that I mentioned earlier from my short list.


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## ISLAND1000

Don't "chince" on the sub amp. You get what you pay for generally.

I run both a Crown XTi 4000 and a Peavey IPR3000. The Peavey is noticeably better than the Crown below 20hz as far as power and definition but the Crown has the built-in DSP. I run the Peavey with a Behringer DEQ2496.
I power an LSM 5400 18" in a 6ft sealed with the Crown and I power 2 21" RCF Neodymium Pro drivers in a 9ft. sealed with the Peavey. Together they make AWESOME music.
The Peavey amp plays for EVER at full power if needed. The Crown turns on the cooling fan at the same level. The Peavey weighs less than half the weight of the Crown. I've had the Crown back to the factory for service once, nothing yet on the Peavey.


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