# New setup in basement/first step



## TonyN (May 28, 2015)

Hello all,

I recently parted with my old-style 70" TV, and am thinking of having a ceiling-mounted projector setup to replace it. Rather than a general/overall 'what do you suggest' thread, I am going to ask some specific questions at the start and then go from there.

My first question relates to the size of the room. It is 10' wide, 8' high, and 22' long. Just a basic question, is there any concern with the size of the room, from a projector point of view? For the screen, I am seeing screens up to 120", but would likely go with something around 100", to accommodate speakers.

Initial opinions on such so far?

Thanks,

Tony


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## showcattleguy (Jun 30, 2011)

My first thought would be to make sure there are no obstructions such as support beams or ductwork that would run horizontally across your room. These would tend to make installing a projection setup with such a low ceiling rather difficult. I ended up completely relocating my furnace/water heater/water softener and rerouting all ductwork to make a theater space work. You made no mention of it i would tend to assume there is not but just thought i would throw it out there. Second you should put some thought into the aspect ratio of your screen. My room dimensions are only slightly larger than yours at 12ft wide by 22 ft long by 8.5ft high and i went with a 110 inch wide 2.37 acoustically transparent screen so i could place my LCR speakers behind the screen.


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## RTS100x5 (Sep 12, 2009)

as previous stated,
do you have access to attic above this room for running HDMI and power to your projector ??

Choices for screen size are not limited to having room for Front L/R speakers if you do want a very large screen - that involves an Acoustically Transparent screen or AT for short... Obviously this choice favors in wall speakers behind the screen , but more advanced installations can use custom towers on a riser or customized platform...
So I would first choose between A. the more common install with speakers (towers or Inwalls) on the Left and Right with a Center channel under a Fixed screen .... or B an AT Screen with more customized speaker design...


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## TonyN (May 28, 2015)

Thanks for replies so far. To answer some questions:

- the ceiling is finished with drywall. 8' is 'the top'.
- it is the basement, so the main floor is above (i.e. no attic).

Is 8' too short for a projector?


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## RTS100x5 (Sep 12, 2009)

No , your mount would not have any type of extension pole ie... mount directly to the ceiling and your fine..

How do you propose to run cables to your projector location from the equipment ?


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## showcattleguy (Jun 30, 2011)

8ft is definitely doable for a projector! If you have a second tier on a riser like i do, the people who are seated up there may have to duck down a bit depending on their height and which projector you choose and how you mount it. The ceiling is finished... hmm do you have a way of running cables to the projector area? I assume there is already power somewhere on the ceiling. Another thought is what is above the drywall to mount the projector to? If you plan on just screwing it into the floor joists you are going to get vibrations from footfalls of whatever room is above. I tied 5 joists together with 2x4s running perpendicular to the joists and i still get slight movement if someone is running around above. Not trying to make this seem daunting just more things to consider to help make this an enjoyable journey


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## bokeh (Nov 13, 2013)

Have you considered an Acoustic Transparent (AT) screen to place speakers behind? This way you can get a bigger screen size if you prefer. You room is good, including height...as many homes of 8' ceiling heights and have HTs setup. You can also get wireless HDMI transceivers if wiring to the PJ is a concern. You could just run electric in ceiling, just hire a ln electrician to run and make sure to get a permit then...you dont want the insurance company to void any claims if there ever is a fire/accident.


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## thrillcat (Mar 25, 2014)

Keep in mind, too, that you don't have to just buy a screen off the shelf. You can buy the screen material (I also suggest acoustically transparent), build a frame and your screen can be whatever size works best for your room. 

If you go to seymourav.com they sell the screen material (very high quality) and have a couple different sets of plans for building your own frame. 

I also have a low ceiling. I use a Peerless projector mount which allows me to keep it very tight to the ceiling. I have it mounted over my front row so there's no way anyone could bump their head on it without actually trying, even from the second row riser. 


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## bokeh (Nov 13, 2013)

thrillcat said:


> Keep in mind, too, that you don't have to just buy a screen off the shelf. You can buy the screen material (I also suggest acoustically transparent), build a frame and your screen can be whatever size works best for your room.
> 
> If you go to seymourav.com they sell the screen material (very high quality) and have a couple different sets of plans for building your own frame.
> 
> ...


I would advise against the Seymour (and any others in this price range) and recommend an Elite AcousticPro, which comes with everything and a great frame that's easy to put together. Much better value and very good screen quality. Also, the Seymour is a brighter white material, which also hurts black levels and results in unnatural saturated colors IMO. Best of all, an Elite Acousticpro costing around $500 costs $1800 at Seymour for no beneficial reason except for a heavier frame which is overkill for what's really required to stretch the material appropriately. Save the extra money to spend on room treatments, which is far more beneficial to your HT experience. Best of all about the Elite is that for the cost, it takes out all the guess work from going DIY, which is another headache. DIY is just not cost effective considering Elite's prices.


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## thrillcat (Mar 25, 2014)

bokeh said:


> Best of all, an Elite Acousticpro costing around $500 costs $1800 at Seymour for no beneficial reason except for a heavier frame which is overkill for what's really required to stretch the material appropriately.



Where did you come up with these numbers???
A basic 98" Seymour screen is $699. 103" is $749. 

What you get for that difference is:
-black backing layer
-the best acoustical transparency available
-made in the USA

Screen gain is something everyone should consider, matching that gain to your projector and room. 
The DIY approach, which I was suggesting, costs even less. I built a 115" screen with fidelio velvet frame for about $350. It took about 75 minutes. 


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