# 21 Acoustic Panels To Be Built!



## Reemdog23 (Jan 2, 2011)

Ok I Have 40 Pieces Of Roxul AFB 24 x 48 x 3. I will be making 6" and 3' Panels. So I went to Lowes today and described my situation and they gave me some suggestions. Since i told them i wanted to build an "around frame(where you place the insulation inside)" instead of just a Backing Frame.They told me i would have to purchase 42 pieces of 1x6x4 pine wood for the sides of the panels (48 inches) and 21 pieces of 1x6x6 pine wood which all together is about almost 300 dollars :/

So I did some more looking around and I seen alot of projects with 1x2x8 pieces of wood, also instead an "around frame(where place the insulation inside)" they just had the Backing Frame.

So I'm wondering would it be a problem if i just did the Backing frame for 6" and 3" bass traps/panels because i think the 1x2x8 would be a much cheaper option. Please I would appriciate the help and feed back very much. I'm trying to complete this by the end of this week . Thanks in advance.

:LOWES WILL CUT THE WOOD FOR FREE


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

You can certainly do that as long as the back is still open. It's just a lot harder to wrap and make them look sharp without the hard frame.


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## Reemdog23 (Jan 2, 2011)

So I Cant Put The Fabric On The Back To Hold In The Roxul Particles If They May Leak or Fly Around The Room?


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Sure. Easiest way is to lay the back frame on a table. Staple some cheap cloth over it. Then lay the mineral wool on top of that. Then, when you wrap it, the cloth inside is already covering the back.


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## Reemdog23 (Jan 2, 2011)

Ok Will Do Thank You So Much For Replying! Also When I ask them to cut it down for me, do i tell them 42 24inch pieces and 42 48inch pieces or do they have to be a little off measurement? Because i ve herd from some folks that they did not get exact numbers :s


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Well. if you're going to make the frame 24x48 and you're going to do butt joints, you'd need 2 pcs at 48" and 2 pcs at 24" minus the width of the 2 48" pieces.


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## patchesj (Jun 17, 2009)

Keep in mind that if your roxul is 24x48, you'll need the INSIDE dimensions of your frame to be that big. Otherwise you'll be trimming... so you'll have 2 x 24" and 2x50" (dimension will vary depending on the actual thickness of your wood).


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## Reemdog23 (Jan 2, 2011)

What Do You Mean By Inside? Like 2x6x8? Please Explain


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## patchesj (Jun 17, 2009)

If your roxul is already cut to 24" x 48", you need the space inside the frame to be that size or you'll need to trim the roxul down. The outside dimensions of the frame will end up being 26"x50" assuming true 1" thick material. Dimensional lumber isn't actuall 1" thick, but this is just for ease of illustration:








Ooops.. where is says 49" shoudl be 50"


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## Reemdog23 (Jan 2, 2011)

Ok So Im Going To Ask Them To Cut It At 24" and 50" Wood Pieces? Also Does It Matter What Kind Of Wood I Use? (example Cedar, Pine, etc)


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## patchesj (Jun 17, 2009)

It would actually be 48" + the thickness of the wood*2. More than likely the wood is 3/4" thick, so your side pieces will be 49.5". I would just use pine. Make sure they get you straight, non-warped/twisted pieces....


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

I thought you were going with a back frame instead of a perimeter frame? In that case, the outside of the frame would be 24x48 - same size as the wool.

The 1x2's are not fully 1"x2" so that needs to be taken into account in either case. IIRC, 1x2's are actually 0.75" x 1.75" but verify that.

I prefer poplar as it's a bit harder and straighter usually and isn't as prone to warping over time like softer woods such as pine. Whitewood is cheapest but even worse for warping over time.


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## patchesj (Jun 17, 2009)

Sorry... I thought he had decided to do the around the sides frame. Either way, now you've got an idea how to put them together! Personally I like the side frames better. Much sharper and you won't need to worry about it sagging or losing shape over time.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Could be. I may have missed that.


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## Reemdog23 (Jan 2, 2011)

Hey I Was Just Thinking About It Hard and Asked Around. Few Folks Said It's Not A Problem But With Roxul It May Sag And Not Look As Good As Frame All Around The Trap and I Dont Want That To Happen


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

The perimeter frame will definitely look sharper and you'll be able to stretch the cloth tighter and not crush the edges.


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## Reemdog23 (Jan 2, 2011)

Ok Well I Went To Lowes And I Think Im Back To The 1x2x8 Plan Because The 1x6x8 The "good" Pine Board Is Like 15 A Board Way To Exspensive For Me In This Process. Is There Any Way Possible I Can Place Something On The Corners Of The Roxul or The Overall Slab So It Won't Droop and Look More Set?


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## patchesj (Jun 17, 2009)

Out of curiosity, what are you going to do with 160 sq ft of 6" absorbers??


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## Reemdog23 (Jan 2, 2011)

Build Acoustic Panels. My Room 11.5 x 11.5 and they said i needed alot of bass traps and also i would have to double up because of the roxul density rating or something of that nature


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## patchesj (Jun 17, 2009)

I think AFB is ~3lb density. Have you measured your room? response? You have ~44 feet of wall, you're building enough panels to cover basically the whole way around (4' high) 6" thick. I would think about it for a bit before moving forward. You will probably be better served building tri-corner traps first and then figuring out how much broadband control you need on the walls.


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## patchesj (Jun 17, 2009)

Also, if you are stacking 2 layers of AFB I'm not sure how well that would work with just the backer frame.


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## fitzwaddle (Aug 25, 2010)

A cheaper way to get the strips of wood to make frames is to rip cut them from sheet goods (such as plywood).


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## patchesj (Jun 17, 2009)

fitzwaddle said:


> A cheaper way to get the strips of wood to make frames is to rip cut them from sheet goods (such as plywood).


That's a great idea. I wonder what a 4x8 sheet of 1/2" costs? More labor, but you could get the frame depth to match your stacked roxul exactly... AND, you could make some deeper absorbers. 3 or 4 layers would really help to lower the effective range.


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## patchesj (Jun 17, 2009)

Looks like you're going to have a really strong node at 53 and 107.


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## Reemdog23 (Jan 2, 2011)

Ok Well Here's How My Room Is Setup (I MOVED THE COMPUTER BY THE WALL WITH THE WINDOWS)(Chair In Corner Removed)










Im going to need 8 bass corner traps, 3 bass traps on the back wall, then 3 panels across the wall behind my bed, then a bass panel behind where the setup is place by the windows, the 2 panels for a cloud. Then 2 on the rear ceiling by the backwall. One on the right side of the mirror.

Would Lowes Be Able To Cut It Down For Since Its A Plywood Board? I've never heard of this idea?


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## patchesj (Jun 17, 2009)

What is the floor covered with? Where are your speakers going and what is the goal? Is this in a house, or some other building?


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## patchesj (Jun 17, 2009)

I looked at your other posts... Mixing.. OK. I agree with Bryan's comments in the other thread about shifting the furniture around. What are your options for attaching framing to the walls? You could create one giant absorber for what will become the back wall (left side). Use some 1x8's and create a frame 4 feet wide and 8 feet tall. Stack 4 panels 3 layers deep (12 * 2x4s) and put the whole thing in the middle of that wall.... I think they would call that a monster monster bass trap... 

You could go 6 feet wide if you have the space between doors. I can't tell what the scale on the drawing is.


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## Reemdog23 (Jan 2, 2011)

This My Room and It Is Carpet. I Would Like That Idea But I Want My Traps More Portable Just In Case You Know? The Speaker Will Go In The Window Space. My Options For Framing I Guess Was To Just Hang It Up Like A Picture lol

Would This Be A Good Money Saving Idea? ( Click Link Below) (By Chance Do You Know What Size Wood That Is)?

http://www.thewombforums.com/showthread.php?t=16184


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## fitzwaddle (Aug 25, 2010)

1/2" plywood ranges from 12 (sheathing) to 30+ (hardwood) here. HD at least will do a couple cuts for free, but then they charge per cut - and I seem to recall they won't rip cut, only cross cut. I've been using a circular saw with fine blade and a $20 clamp on rip fence.

I'll PM you a link to an avs forum thread on building frames - probably bad form to cross link here (although that didn't stop me before).


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## Reemdog23 (Jan 2, 2011)

See Yea I Dont Have The Tools To Cut And All So That's Why I Need Them To Do It. So Your Saying Get Plywood Sheets? Then See If They Will Strip Cut Them


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## Reemdog23 (Jan 2, 2011)

By The Way, THANX FOR ALL THE HELP GUYS!


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## fitzwaddle (Aug 25, 2010)

Or maybe a neighbor/brother/uncle/friend with tools who will work for pizza and beer


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## Reemdog23 (Jan 2, 2011)

Nope LOL


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