# DIY Balanced AC Power



## Glen B (Jun 11, 2013)

I could not help but notice a lack of discussion about power conditioning projects on HTS. Over the years I have tried various audiophile power conditioning devices with varying degrees of success, until coming across balanced AC power. Since 2004, when I tried my first DIY balanced AC power project, I have gone through several incarnations, each time tweaking and improving on the previous effort. 

I went the DIY way because I was not satisfied with some of the parts and design choices I was seeing in manufactured units. I decided to build my own, using the best parts and wiring I could obtain, regardless of cost, and doing careful listening along the way. I use premium outlets and power inlet, hydraulic/magnetic time delay breaker, OCC silver and copper wirinng, pure copper terminals, and non-ferrous hardware. All transformer mounting bolts, nuts and washers are bronze. 

Chassis are supplied by Par-Metal Corp., a manufacturer of rack-mount chassis in New Jersey that is know to some DIYers. In the beginning I bought the raw enclosures and cut my own holes using a Dremel tool. I later found out that Par-Metal also did hole-punching for a modest fee once you provided a detailed drawing. I had them supply subsequent chassis with holes pre-punched, which made for a much neater, more professional looking end result.

My current unit has three duplex outlet banks, each fed by its own balanced isolation transformer. I use Littelfuse iTMOVs for surge suppression. The iTMOvs have a third lead that can be used for a power cutout or indicator circuit in case of surge protection failure. I employ a simple indicator circuit using a front panel LED that does double duty as a power on indicator. When the LED is lit, that tells me power is on and surge potection is present. If the LED goes out, that telle me the MOV has gone south, and the circuit breaker may also have tripped. 

Of all the technologies I have tried, balanced power has brought the most benefits. YMMV.

Some of my builds, from first to current:


















































































Unit at home in my equipment rack:


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## Tonto (Jun 30, 2007)

Nice looking build, you look to have a fair knowledge of electical. What king of benefits are talking about & how did you measure them?

Looks like it woud make an interesting build thread.


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## Glen B (Jun 11, 2013)

Sonic benefits in my system are reduction of an already very low system noise floor to the vanishing point, noted increase in bass heft and definition, and improvements in detail and transparency. Technical improvements of balanced power have already been proven. Equi=Tech Corp. the pioneers of balanced power (a.k.a. symmetrical power) has several articles and papers published on the subject.

http://www.equitech.com/articles/articles.html


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

How expensive was it to make one?


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## Glen B (Jun 11, 2013)

I've done several builds and spent between $1,900 and $2,600 on parts.


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## B- one (Jan 13, 2013)

Wow. And wow again. That looks great,how long to build it?


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## Glen B (Jun 11, 2013)

B- one said:


> Wow. And wow again. That looks great,how long to build it?


How long to build THEM, since you're looking at three different builds. The average build time is about 18 hours.


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## Chester (Feb 19, 2007)

can you provide a breakdown of part costs (for your build) and also, what the function of each part is (to help with potentially substituting less expensive parts to achieve the same function)? Thanks!


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## Glen B (Jun 11, 2013)

Your build can range from something as basic as a single balanced isolation transformer in an enclosure, with circuit breaker and GFCI outlet, to something more involved, with multiple transformers and the best audio grade parts and wiring. Your final cost will vary accordingly. I've done two rebuilds within the past 9 years, with major parts changes and tweaks in-between. Parts costs have varied from approximately $1,900 to $2,600. Following are the items in my current build. I've used various brand EMI/RFI block filters and GFCIs in the past, which I don't use now for sonic reasons, after careful listening comparisons.

Equi=Tech 2BQ balanced isolation transformer - $650.00
Toroid Corporation of Maryland 250VA balanced isolation transformers, potted (2) - $400.00
Par-Metal rack mount chassis, including hole-punching charge - $85.00
Oyaide R-1 duplex outlets, cryoed and cooked (3) - $540.00
Furutech FI-33 gold 20A IEC power inlet - $109.00
Carlingswitch 20A hydraulic/magnetic time delay breaker - $35.00
Acoustic Zen and VH Audio OCC silver and copper internal wiring - $600.00
Auricaps, 0.47µF/600V and 1µF/600V - $90.00 (used as differential noise filters)
Other small parts + sound dampening material + non-ferrous hardware + parts shipping costs - estimated $150.00, ± 20%


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## fschris (Oct 31, 2009)

this is pretty cool but I would get electrocuted making something like this ....


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## richidoo (Dec 14, 2006)

Very cool Greg! 

I had Equitech Q1.5 in my system for about 6 months a few years ago, it was a revelation how much it improved the sound, especially with tube amps that have relatively small power transformers themselves, and are relatively more sensitive to line noise due to less cap storage due to the high voltage. 

I plugged everything into it, almost everything benefitted. One particularly well designed DIY amp with very large power transformer didn't change sound much. 

Is it true, as Bryston suggests, that an isolation transformer can lower the source impedance to below that of the utility? I guess the voltage ratio of the windings at 2:1 then you would get 1/2 impedance on each balanced leg. Is that right? I think that is what makes the amp sound more alive, and better LF transients. That plus the huge magnetic reserve in that big core makes up for too small trannies in the components.

I didn't know the Equi-Tech sold their raw trannies. Did you order direct from them? I read somewhere that Plitron winds iron for them.

The only negatives in my experience with the Q was the slight mechanical hum, and the 90 pound weight! But the great sound was worth the effort.
Thanks for sharing your projects!
Rich


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## Dave7 (Nov 30, 2010)

Glen - very nice! 

I have been thinking about this very thing a lot lately, but I do not have a really good understanding on the advantages of the different available approaches. I get that PS Audio "regenerates" AC to DC back to AC, others "condition or filter" while you are using balanced like Eqi-tech and some other reputable companies.

Is the basic design of your unit as simple as wiring the 115V primaries of the toriodal transformer to the IEC inlet and then wiring the 115V dual secondaries to a pair of outlets? I understand you do some filtering and protection in between, but is the above description a simplistic view of the basic layout?

Why not incorporate something like this just after your circuit breaker panel...unless there are noise issues between the panel and the outlet.

I guess there will always be tons of questions...

Thanks,

dave


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## richidoo (Dec 14, 2006)

dave, balanced power is using a transformer to convert +120V single ended power (sine wave 0-120V on hot lead 0V on neutral) into balanced +60V and -60V legs with floating 0V ground in the middle. The hot lead is 0to+60V while neutral is now 0to-60V. Your devices still see the 120V potential they need to run, but the power is split into balanced legs which creates some noise limiting and grounding advantages, among others. Check out the articles at Equitech.com, it is very interesting.
Rich


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## Glen B (Jun 11, 2013)

Dave7 said:


> Is the basic design of your unit as simple as wiring the 115V primaries of the toriodal transformer to the IEC inlet and then wiring the 115V dual secondaries to a pair of outlets? I understand you do some filtering and protection in between, but is the above description a simplistic view of the basic layout?


Here is a basic schematic of the most simple implementation, devoid of additional filters, etc. Parts are balanced isolation transformer, time-delay circuit breaker, power inlet or male plug and cord, GFCI outlet, and metal enclosure.


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## Glen B (Jun 11, 2013)

richidoo said:


> Is it true, as Bryston suggests, that an isolation transformer can lower the source impedance to below that of the utility? I guess the voltage ratio of the windings at 2:1 then you would get 1/2 impedance on each balanced leg. Is that right? I think that is what makes the amp sound more alive, and better LF transients.


Yes, the isolation transformer lowers source impedance. Its almost like having the utility co transformer relocated close to your system.



richidoo said:


> I didn't know that Equi=Tech sold their raw trannies. Did you order direct from them? I read somewhere that Plitron winds iron for them.


They sell factory blems/B stock factory-direct from time to time. The transformer I bought from them was from a lot that met all operating specs, but was a little to tall to fit in their chassis. From what I've seen of various Equi=Tech transformers, they do seem to outsource winding, including from Plitron.



richidoo said:


> The only negatives in my experience with the Q was the slight mechanical hum, and the 90 pound weight! But the great sound was worth the effort.


The Q type transformers are pretty immune to power line DC offset, but will still hum if it is high enough. A DC blocker inserted between the wall and Q1.5 or locating and removing the source of DC would have cured the hum if it was indeed the cause. I've built a number of DC blockers as favors, and all except two people reported significant or total reduction of mechanical transformer hum.


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## Dave7 (Nov 30, 2010)

Thanks for the info. 

Maybe this is a really dumb question, but why a GFCI outlet? Wouldn't a nice fused IEC be enough, and maybe a fuse or two on the output side?

Or is the GFCI just a simple and more cost effective solution.


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## Glen B (Jun 11, 2013)

The GFCI is used for safety since both 60V legs of the transformer secondary are hot. With standard 120V, the neutral side is grounded. With balanced power, the "neutral" side is hot. Now, there are some electrical devices with polarized two-prong plugs (like lamps) that have the neutral side connected to the case. If you plug such a device into balanced power, the case will be live, and pose an electrocution hazard. Likewise, in equipment with only a single pole switch on the hot side, even when that switch is in the off position, the neutral side will be live as long as that equipment remains plugged into balanced power. The GFCI helps to minimize those risks. Fuses or double pole breakers can be installed on the isolation transformer secondary if one chooses.


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## stevekale (Jan 19, 2013)

Wow I am impressed. I would definitely fry myself and all my equipment.

As someone who has been exploring power conditioners I am interested in the build. Are power conditioners/rejuvenators really as "simple" as a toroidal transformer providing isolation? Can you explain the use of the Auricaps in a bit more detail?

(I'm amazed you can get a nice chassis, punched to design, for $85. In the UK that would cost a bomb if available at all.)


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## Owen Bartley (Oct 18, 2006)

Really nice innovative DIY, Glen. You seem to really know what you're doing, and have put together a great addition to your system. I'm with the couple of guys who noted that they'd probably do more harm than good, but good for you, having the skills to pull it off!

There isn't too much discussion of power conditioners, etc. around here, and maybe that's because it is something mysterious to most of us. I've seen a few mentions of UPS in systems, and occasionally someone will have a Monster or APC unit, maybe a Panamax (very slick looking at least) and I remember reading about someone using a unit from Richard Gray's Power Company, which I thought looked very serious. But I think most of us still don't really understand exactly what they're DOING or how they work. As for building your own... unless you're an electrician or similarly trained, its an intimidating subject to tackle, since there's so much potential to cause damage.


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## Dave7 (Nov 30, 2010)

Thanks Glen - that makes good sense.

You list the Carlingswitch 20A hydraulic/magnetic time delay breaker. When I look that up, there are tons of variations. Any chance you have a part number? I assume you use a double pole, one for each leg then.

BTW - Thanks very much for sharing this. It looks like Plitron stocks toroidal transformers for medical use for likely the same reason you like them in audio:

http://shop.plitron.com/shopdisplay...+Isolation+Transformers+for+Medical+Equipment

I am not sure why there are three different part numbers and prices for most sizes though. It appears as though the major specs are the same, however I haven't spent much time investigating.


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## Glen B (Jun 11, 2013)

stevekale said:


> Wow I am impressed. I would definitely fry myself and all my equipment.
> 
> As someone who has been exploring power conditioners I am interested in the build. Are power conditioners/rejuvenators really as "simple" as a toroidal transformer providing isolation? Can you explain the use of the Auricaps in a bit more detail?


Yes, a solution can be as simple as a balanced isolation transformer. It will block a substantial amount of common mode noise, resulting in a lower system noise floor. A lower noise floor can result in darker background and revealing of more subtle details in your music, among other benefits. The Auricaps are used as differential noise filters. If using a single transformer feeding a bank of multiple outlets, caps across the hot and neutral of each duplex will provide some isolation of each outlet. You may be interested in the UK forum, The Art of Sound. There is a thread on balanced power there that may be beneficial to you in locating local sources of parts.

http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?24394-Balanced-Power-Supply


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## Glen B (Jun 11, 2013)

Dave7 said:


> Thanks Glen - that makes good sense.
> 
> You list the Carlingswitch 20A hydraulic/magnetic time delay breaker. When I look that up, there are tons of variations. Any chance you have a part number? I assume you use a double pole, one for each leg then.


I don't have a part number immediately on hand. I will have to check and get back to you. I'm not even sure if the one I'm using is readily available right now. I got it from DigiKey, and at one time they were no longer stocking them. I had to substitute Potter & Brumfield (P&B) breakers, which are also good, in other projects.



Dave7 said:


> BTW - Thanks very much for sharing this. It looks like Plitron stocks toroidal transformers for medical use for likely the same reason you like them in audio:
> 
> http://shop.plitron.com/shopdisplay...+Isolation+Transformers+for+Medical+Equipment
> 
> I am not sure why there are three different part numbers and prices for most sizes though. It appears as though the major specs are the same, however I haven't spent much time investigating.


You are looking at the wrong transformers. Those are standard isolation transformers. There are different part numbers for equivalent sizes because they have different electrostatic screen and thermal protection options. 

What you need is Plitron 2,000VA rated balanced isolation transformer, part # 8575-X0-02, the one product they make specifically for sale to do-it-yourselfers. It sells for Canadian $343.84, and lead time is approx. 2 weeks. See the following link. Clicking on "View product specifications" on the page, will take you to the transformer schematic and specs.

http://shop.plitron.com/search_new.asp?Action=Search&SearchTerm=8575-X0-02&Search=Search

You can also obtain balanced isolation transformers from Toroid Corporation of Maryland. Don't buy what they have in boxes with outlets listed on the website. Call their sales department and ask to purchase a bare transformer, potted (i.e., center-potted). Part numbers for bare transformers are the same as ones in enclosures, except you don't include the "X" suffix. So for example, a bare 2,200VA transformer would be part #BT2000. Lead time is often quoted as two weeks, but in my experince has been more like three business days.

http://www.toroid.com/standard_transformers/balanced_transformers/balanced_transformers.htm


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## stevekale (Jan 19, 2013)

Glen B said:


> Yes, a solution can be as simple as a balanced isolation transformer. It will block a substantial amount of common mode noise, resulting in a lower system noise floor. A lower noise floor can result in darker background and revealing of more subtle details in your music, among other benefits. The Auricaps are used as differential noise filters. If using a single transformer feeding a bank of multiple outlets, caps across the hot and neutral of each duplex will provide some isolation of each outlet. You may be interested in the UK forum, The Art of Sound. There is a thread on balanced power there that may be beneficial to you in locating local sources of parts.
> 
> http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?24394-Balanced-Power-Supply


Thanks. I took a read through the article by 6Moons for which a link is found on the Equi=Tech website. I've been considering Isotek products here - they seem to claim far higher reductions in noise. Then again, there seems to be so much confusing opinion regarding the value of power conditioning (absent the need to battle a particular problem) I'm wondering how far up my priority list it ought to be....


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## Glen B (Jun 11, 2013)

The Equi=Tech products and other similar ones like it are built to a certain price point. IsoTek seems to have a line of products ranging from ones with noise reduction figures similar to Equi=Tech, to ones that appear uber-expensive, likely employing multiple technologies. In that case, the noise reduction figures should be higher, as befits the greater cost


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## stevekale (Jan 19, 2013)

Yes the IsoTek stuff isn't cheap, even there lower models. 

Question: I was reading about balanced power. I have a Krell FPB 200 amp where FPB stands for "full power balanced". (Almost all of my gear is powered by linear power supplies with toroidal transformers and so there is galvanic isolation there.) I wonder if the Krell amp deploys internally the principal of balanced power that's used by Equi=Tech.

Also, I'm intrigued as to whether you guys hear noise from your speakers (without content playing of course) without such power conditioning products. I don't. I've so far always thought that the internal linear power supplies of my equipment delivered clean power and that unless I was experiencing a particular ground loop issue then such products are unnecessary.


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## lcaillo (May 2, 2006)

Balanced power designs certainly can reduce common mode noise. Power conditioners can clean up power line noise. The real question to me is precisely what stevekale poses. Is the difference meaningful. I have not found it to be so with most systems with otherwise good design and installation. I'd like to see some actual measurements and DBTs that demonstrate a benefit that justifies the cost. 

Most power supplies do clean up most normal noise on a power line. Conventional power supplies can pass noise to the amplifier stages, but I have rarely been able to measure it. Switching power supplies make power conditioning all but irrelevant. Balancing a supply addresses common mode noise, which is a different matter. Large transformers act as filters themselves for high frequency noise but this is less likely to pass through to an amplifier stage.

A complex set of questions and issues...and like every problem, if you want to solve it you have to define it first. Actually, you have to decide if it is even a problem. For most of us, it is not, at least not in a way that justifies hundreds or thousands of dollars in solutions.


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## Glen B (Jun 11, 2013)

Dave7 said:


> You list the Carlingswitch 20A hydraulic/magnetic time delay breaker. When I look that up, there are tons of variations. Any chance you have a part number? I assume you use a double pole, one for each leg then.


 I use a single pole breaker on the incoming hot line. Following are the part numbers for Carlingswitch A-Series 10A, 15A and 20A breakers, all medium delay. Mouser Electronics has them at $25.90 each. TE (Tyco Electronics)/Potter & Brumfield (P&B) are also good options at a similar price. I've used P&B when I could not find Carlingswitch stock in the amperage value I needed. Part numbers below.

Carlingswitch
10A: AA1-B0-34-610-3B1-C
15A: AA1-B0-34-615-3B1-C
20A: AA1-B0-34-620-3B1-C

P&B
5A: W67-X2Q10-5
10A: W67-X2Q12-10
15A: W67-X2Q12-15
20A: W67-X2Q12-20


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## Glen B (Jun 11, 2013)

stevekale said:


> Yes the IsoTek stuff isn't cheap, even there lower models.
> Question: I was reading about balanced power. I have a Krell FPB 200 amp where FPB stands for "full power balanced". (Almost all of my gear is powered by linear power supplies with toroidal transformers and so there is galvanic isolation there.) I wonder if the Krell amp deploys internally the principal of balanced power that's used by Equi=Tech.


"Full Power Balanced" has nothing to do with balanced AC power. The "balanced" in FPB refers to the amplifier audio circuitry being full differential topology from input to output. The non-inverted and inverted halves of the audio signal are amplified by mirror-image stages from input to the output. The two halves of the audio signal are combined at the speaker. The "full power" in FPB means the amp operates in class A up to its full rated power, unlike some other amps that claim to be "class A" but operate in class B after a certain point. Yes, an amplifier's power supply can block some percentage of AC line noise, but it can only do so much. The best RFI/EMI noise filtering and AC regeneration devices are not perfect either, and some noise will still pass.

The following threads on power conditioners, high end cables and audiophile fuses in the Polk Audio Forum should make some good reading. The author, whose member username on Polk Forum is DarqueKNight, is a university professor of electrical engineering, and audio enthusiast. He has tried various conditioners and tweaks in his personal system(s), taken measurements, and published his findings on the forum. I guess if you wanted some kind of corroboration whether various tweaks made a measurable difference, this is probably the closest as it gets.

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?71333-Studies-On-Residential-Power-Line-Noise-Part-1

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?71382-Studies-On-Residential-Power-Line-Noise-Part-2

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/sho...ine-Noise-Part-3-PS-Audio-Power-Plant-Premier

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/sho...e-Noise-Part-4-PS-Audio-Premier-SC-Power-Cord

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/sho...Line-Noise-Part-5-PS-Audio-Power-Port-Premier

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/sho...Noise-Part-6-PS-Audio-Soloist-Special-Edition

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/sho...e-Noise-Part-7-HiFi-Tuning-and-Isoclean-Fuses

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/sho...ise-Part-8-Audio-Grade-Fuses-For-Home-Theater


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## Dave7 (Nov 30, 2010)

Glen - Thanks again...you might be getting more than you bargained for when you began this thread...

I get it is regard to the link I provided. 

1) Would the unit I linked work as a "step-up" transformer if someone wanted to run 240 balanced power since it has 117v secondaries?

2) I took a look at the Plitron and Maryland units you linked. It appears as though the Plitron would supply two independent outlets with its four secondary 60V leads while the Maryland would supply one (only two secondary 60V leads). Am I looking at this correctly? 

3) If so, is there an advantage in either noise reduction and/or isolation between the two Plitron secondaries?

4) Also, is the Plitron linked below more or less a 1500VA equivalent of the Maryland unit you linked?

http://shop.plitron.com/shopexd.asp?id=273

I ask this to make sure I am understanding this correctly and not just parroting what you say. 

5) Also, do you have a methodology to properly size a toroidal transformer for a particular component or group of components?

Questions, questions, questions...

And, now you've given us a another reading assignment. :T


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## Glen B (Jun 11, 2013)

Dave7 said:


> 1) Would the unit I linked work as a "step-up" transformer if someone wanted to run 240 balanced power since it has 117v secondaries?


Yes, but derated by 50%, and it would be a standard isolated transformer, not balanced, and lack a screen. The screen helps to shunt noise and voltage spikes to ground.


Dave7 said:


> 2) I took a look at the Plitron and Maryland units you linked. It appears as though the Plitron would supply two independent outlets with its four secondary 60V leads while the Maryland would supply one (only two secondary 60V leads). Am I looking at this correctly?


You're looking at it wrong. Leads 5 and 6 are meant to be connected together to form the center tap of the balanced output. At leads 4 and 7 you get the 120V output. If you tried to feed two outlets from each half of the secondary, each would only be 60V. 

With the Toroid Corp of Maryland balanced isolation transformers, one end of each secondary half is joined internally and brought out in a single center tap lead.



Dave7 said:


> 3) If so, is there an advantage in either noise reduction and/or isolation between the two Plitron secondaries?


You may get some isolation between the two operated single-ended, but that is offset by lack of a screen and lack of balanced output. It makes no sense to use a standard transformer in that way when you can get a balanced one for not that much more, plus you will get greater noise reduction, and spike protection.



Dave7 said:


> 4) Also, is the Plitron linked below more or less a 1500VA equivalent of the Maryland unit you linked?
> 
> http://shop.plitron.com/shopexd.asp?id=273


No, they're not equivalents. One is a standard transformer, the other is balanced, with closer matching of the two halves of the secondary and a screen.



Dave7 said:


> [5) Also, do you have a methodology to properly size a toroidal transformer for a particular component or group of components?


When you add up the total maximum power consumption of all equipment, I would go with about minimum 1/3 reserve, more with a big amp in the mix.


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## Dave7 (Nov 30, 2010)

You have a lot of patience. Thank you.


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## stevekale (Jan 19, 2013)

Thanks. I will do some more reading.


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## Dave7 (Nov 30, 2010)

It looks like this is a rather simple way of doing it...Albeit not DIY:

http://www.goertzaudio.com/contents/en-us/d21_Balanced_Power_Supply.html


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## Glimmie (Apr 26, 2012)

Looks good! Just one caution:

Are those Auricaps rated for AC line duty? Just because they can take 600vDc does not make them acceptable for connection across the AC line. In fact most 600vdc capacitors WILL FAIL at 240vac.

They make X rated caps that are certified for connection directly across the AC line and they are inexpensive.

I too run a 6kva balanced power system house wide made from a 480/240v transformer running with 240v in and 60-0-60 out.



http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43122&stc=1&d=1374113608


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## Glen B (Jun 11, 2013)

I am full aware that X rated and Y rated caps are used in across-the-line and line-to-ground AC mains applications. The Auricaps are not certified for AC use but are self-healing, fail open circuit not shorted, and have been used in across the line AC applications. According to the manufacturer's AC application guide, the 0.47uF values I use are rated to 504VAC RMS at 60Hz. I am fully aware of the risks. I have been using them for 9+ years without a single failure. They are a popular tweak, if you visit forums outside of HTS. Balanced Power Technologies used them in earlier models of their balanced power products, as does Auricap manufacturer Audience, in their Adept Response Line Conditioners. 

Do you use GFI's with that whole house balanced power ?

Audience Adept Response line conditioner inside view:











Auricaps in BPT product, each in heatshrink:


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## Glimmie (Apr 26, 2012)

No on the GFI. The secondary breaker was a pool/spa GFI but was nuisance tripping due to the leakage in all the gear. I replaced it with a 50a standard breaker. All breakers are double pole.

There is another balanced power sub panel in the HT that handles all that gear. I had to resort to a 3kva ups when I went server based so my HT computer gear is no longer on balanced power. But the audio gear all is.

Note that my system is basically illegal anyway. NEC rules specifically state residential balanced power system installation is not allowed. You are exempt with a power cord connected unit. Still my system is safe and will move with me if it ever does.


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## lcaillo (May 2, 2006)

Just to be clear, setting up your a.c. distribution as balanced is prohibited according to the N.E.C. Using balanced power locally on a system, with proper grounding, is not, at least by my understanding. 

Also, one would not expect anything but constant tripping on a GFCI circuit with balanced power because there is essentially no neutral. GFCI works by opening the circuit anytime there is a potential between ground and neutral. With balanced power, there is potential at all times between all three lines.


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## Glen B (Jun 11, 2013)

Correct. Per NEC Article 647, hardwired balanced power is only permitted in commercial and industrial locations. Article 647 also requires GFCI protection of receptacles. Since GFCIs work on detecting imbalance on the two poles, as long as there is no leakage detected on either pole, the device will not trip.


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## Glimmie (Apr 26, 2012)

lcaillo said:


> Just to be clear, setting up your a.c. distribution as balanced is prohibited according to the N.E.C. Using balanced power locally on a system, with proper grounding, is not, at least by my understanding.


This is correct. I have read Equitech requested changes to the 2012 NEC that would allow residential installation but don't know if that was put through. In any case my system would still be illegal because using a standard 480v/240vct distribution transformer for 60-0-60 power is not an approved application of the device. UL and NEC is a very specific about mis-use or modification of listed products. My system is safe however as I have total control over it's use. And BTW, I should explain "house wide". I have dedicated balanced circuits pulled to all AV devices, TV,s other entertainment systems. The whole house is obviously not on balanced power.

Buy hey, I tear the labels off my mattresses, exceed the posted speed limit daily, and even have a 20lb can of R22 Freon in my garage without an EPA license! :nono:



> Also, one would not expect anything but constant tripping on a GFCI circuit with balanced power because there is essentially no neutral. GFCI works by opening the circuit anytime there is a potential between ground and neutral. With balanced power, there is potential at all times between all three lines.


In theory as all current should be returned to the transformer it should not care. A GFCI works by detecting imbalance betwenn the two conductors. It doesn't really "know" one is a neutral. Note that a pool/spa GFCI breaker is for 240v and really no different than a balanced power system. Our residential standard in the US is a 240v balanced system when you look at it. But the balanced transformer centertap ground in our DIY systems is still bonded to the main electrical ground. It has to be for safety and that's where the leakage occurs from internal RFI/EMI filters. GFCI trippng is a known issue with balanced power systems. If you use GFCI receptacles it seems to work OK but standard GFCI branch circuit breakers see more of a load from additional devices and thus more leakage current.

Note that I think one would have the same problem with GFCI breakers on standard non balanced power as well. The same EMI/RFI filter leakage still occurs. Once you get over IIRC, 5ma, imbalance it trips.


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## Glimmie (Apr 26, 2012)

Glen B said:


> Correct. Per NEC Article 647, hardwired balanced power is only permitted in commercial and industrial locations. Article 647 also requires GFCI protection of receptacles. Since GFCIs work on detecting imbalance on the two poles, as long as there is no leakage detected on either pole, the device will not trip.


With regards to item #4, I think we would have to have a new NEMA receptacle and plug designed for balanced power before it could be accepted for residential installation. This would prevent casual misuse of the system to some extent. Just like you can't plug a 240v 15a air conditioner into a 120v outlet.

But then we really would have "honest" $200 audiophile AC plugs and outlets due to the miniscule market demand. Just think, dip these in a cryo bath and you could charge $500 each.:sarcastic:


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## Glen B (Jun 11, 2013)

Glimmie said:


> But then we really would have "honest" $200 audiophile AC plugs and outlets due to the miniscule market demand. Just think, dip these in a cryo bath and you could charge $500 each.:sarcastic:


Hey! I use $200 cryoed outlets and plugs (Oyaide C-004/P-004 and R-1) and they do make a worthwhile audible difference in my system. Part of the high cost is the fact that they're beryllium copper, then plated in platinum and palladium. Beryllium copper is the purest form of copper (approx. 99.5% copper/0.5% beryllium) you can get that still retains the springiness and hardness suitable for outlets. Pure copper is too soft for the purpose. Beryllium is rare and expensive, therefore, products containing the element will accordingly not be cheap.


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## Glimmie (Apr 26, 2012)

Glen B said:


> Hey! I use $200 cryoed outlets and plugs (Oyaide C-004/P-004 and R-1) and they do make a worthwhile audible difference in my system. Part of the high cost is the fact that they're beryllium copper, then plated in platinum and palladium. Beryllium copper is the purest form of copper (approx. 99.5% copper/0.5% beryllium) you can get that still retains the springiness and hardness suitable for outlets. Pure copper is too soft for the purpose. Beryllium is rare and expensive, therefore, products containing the element will accordingly not be cheap.


How much voltage drop do you measure between a standard spec grade outlet and the Oyaide? What exactly is this enhanced outlet doing to increase audio performance? I guess if your plugs don't fall out while playing, that is a significant increase in audio performance. Beyond that I just don't see a benefit.

But hey, if they work for you, then you made a good choice.

BTW, while we speak of NEC and codes, any UL or equivalent listed product is null and void once modified such as re-plating or cryo treatment. Silly? I don't think so. What did the cryo do to the plastics? Perhaps nothing or made them brittle where the can shatter in the future and cause an arc flash?

I don't know about Oyaide but many of these "audiophile" plugs and outlets are nothing more than standard specification grade commercial products gold plated and cryo treated. The fact that the OEM product bears a UL label is no longer valid.


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## Glen B (Jun 11, 2013)

I think this thread is starting to go off on the wrong track. While there are a number of audio grade outlets that are commercial grade Hubbell, Pass & Seymour or Woodhead products that have been specially plated and cryoed, that is not true of Oyaide and Furutech, which are manufactured from the ground up. 

Hubbell and Woodhead make OEM products to the specifications of "private labels". FIM (First Impression Music) 880 outlets are a Daniel Woodhead Company OEM product made to FIM specs. The metal parts of Furutechs are cryo-treated during manufacture, before final assembly. The metal parts in Furutech and Oyaide are of heavier gauge (1.2mm versus 0.8mm) than standard Hubbells, P&S, Levitons, etc., clearly different. The receptacle material is a seemingly indestructible glass fiber. 

All I know is that after years of trying various receptacles, from standard commercial grade devices to what I'm using now, that I have heard distinct improvements in my system. It is one thing to try these devices and find they've made no difference in your system, and another to have never tried them. I have always stayed away from making comments about the efficacy of things I have not myself tried.


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## Glimmie (Apr 26, 2012)

Well if one doesn't mind spending the money, yes try it. The Wattgate goes for about $150 IIRC.

But as an EE and IEEE member with 30 years experience in broadcast systems / product design. I just want to see some peer reviewed test documentation that supports the claims before laying out that cash. 

In the past 30 years since 1980 when the audiophile accessory market seems to have been born, nobody has produced this evidence. Specifically standard format scientific data that can be verified by independent labs. There are of course plenty of scope pictures and phoney engineering data published by the vendors but nothing yet that would stand up to professional scrutiny.

Outside of a few esoteric studios where advertising fees were questionably exchanged, no professional broadcast or mastering facility uses these AC power components. I know, I build them. That speaks volumes and should provide some guidance for those who are curious yet lack the disposable income "to just try it" .


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## Glen B (Jun 11, 2013)

Thirty+ years ago, high end amplifiers were thought by many to sound better, despite having poorer distortion figures than mass market electronics, a phenomenon that could not be explained by measurements. Anyway, repeated here is a link I posted earlier in this thread. The author Darqueknight, is a member of Polk Audio Forums, a regular guy like us, who also happens to be a professor of EE. He undertook to take measurements of various high end products he has tried in his system. In this case, it is the PS Audio Power Port Premier duplex receptacle, a product similar to the Oyaide R-1 outlet, in that the base metal is beryllium copper.

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/sho...Line-Noise-Part-5-PS-Audio-Power-Port-Premier


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## Glimmie (Apr 26, 2012)

Glen B said:


> Thirty+ years ago, high end amplifiers were thought by many to sound better, despite having poorer distortion figures than mass market electronics, a phenomenon that could not be explained by measurements. Anyway, repeated here is a link I posted earlier in this thread. The author Darqueknight, is a member of Polk Audio Forums, a regular guy like us, who also happens to be a professor of EE. He undertook to take measurements of various high end products he has tried in his system. In this case, it is the PS Audio Power Port Premier duplex receptacle, a product similar to the Oyaide R-1 outlet, in that the base metal is beryllium copper.
> 
> http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?75093-Studies-On-Residential-Power-Line-Noise-Part-5-PS-Audio-Power-Port-Premier


Well I see some issues with those spectrum analyzer images. There are not in sync time wise as evidenced by the displayed frequency shift. AC line frequency does shift over time and noise is certainly random. So yes there will be differences in the noise patterns. I also don't see any measurments with the amps reversed. So we therefore do not have a baseline of each amp channel with each receptacle. We cannot assume the two power amps have identical noise spectrums because surely they cannot. 

This is a fair and honest attempt to reveal the benefits of these outlets but like most of these audiophile products tests, it fails in the details. This is why we have peer review in technical institutions. Polk audio is not an accredited institution.

I am not looking to get into debate on this. You like these products and so do quite a few others or they would not be in business. I just fail to see the mechanism in action that would produce the differences many, not just you, claim to hear. I would welcome seeing some accredited data to support a conclusion but like I said in 30 years we have yet to get it.


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## AudiocRaver (Jun 6, 2012)

Glen B said:


> Thirty+ years ago, high end amplifiers were thought by many to sound better, despite having poorer distortion figures than mass market electronics, a phenomenon that could not be explained by measurements. Anyway, repeated here is a link I posted earlier in this thread. The author Darqueknight, is a member of Polk Audio Forums, a regular guy like us, who also happens to be a professor of EE. He undertook to take measurements of various high end products he has tried in his system. In this case, it is the PS Audio Power Port Premier duplex receptacle, a product similar to the Oyaide R-1 outlet, in that the base metal is beryllium copper.
> 
> http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/sho...Line-Noise-Part-5-PS-Audio-Power-Port-Premier


Glen: I admit I am not a big believer in the difference that products like this can make in the sound, BUT - I have to admit that I have not tried them either. And I try to be open minded about such things.

Are there specific listening tests you go through when you try new peripheral components? I am sincerely interested in how you go about determining the amount of improvement.

Thanks.


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## Glen B (Jun 11, 2013)

Whether I make a change to components or parts, I do very close listening to the same tracks from the same batch of familiar high quality recordings, and try to match listening levels with my SPL meter. I let my ears be the judge by listening for differences. I ask myself, has the sound changed ? Is it better or worse ? How so ? I've had the experience of hearing parts of music never heard previously, words that were previously unintelligible, or the sound of instuments that were previously buried in the background that became more prominent.


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## Glimmie (Apr 26, 2012)

AudiocRaver said:


> Glen: I admit I am not a big believer in the difference that products like this can make in the sound, BUT - I have to admit that I have not tried them either. And I try to be open minded about such things.
> 
> Are there specific listening tests you go through when you try new peripheral components? I am sincerely interested in how you go about determining the amount of improvement.
> 
> Thanks.


Not everybody has a technical background in electronics. Therefore the common approach is to try these products and see what you get. OTOH, those with technical backgrounds do have the training and experience to know why these products can't work as advertised. This is why many naysayers don't bother to try the devices.

Here's another thing to consider:

Why are these audiophile accessory products, let's stick to power products for this example, only relevant in consumer audio applications? As I stated above they are not used in the mainstream mastering and broadcast industry. And let's look outside that. These products are claimed to reduce noise, increase dynamics, widen sound stage, etc. But yet they are still simply electrical distribution components.

So if these devices actually increase the quality of power delivered, why are they not found in the medical and scientific research facilities? Here you have very low signal voltages and noise constraints far above audio entertainment systems. Yet outside of low leakage cords and plugs, they use standard specification grade electrical parts*.

Let's look at some of the cable claims and the computer industry. If these audiophile cable companies really did accomplish the claims they make in enhanced electrical conductivity in a wire, wouldn't the multi billion dollar computer networking industry be all over it? The current SOTA is 10gbs over copper. If some audiophile company can make a 6 foot SPDIF cables that improves the subjective quality of the decoded data srtream, i.e widen sound stage, (which in it's self is impossible), wouldn't that technology be huge for a 10gbs data link at hundreds of feet?

Look at the new craze in electric cars. If these mega bucks speaker cables really do offer superior conductivity, why aren't the car companies all over this for patent rights? Any power wasted in an electric car is lost range - a big deal today. Ditto that for the solar power industry.

Some will say how do we know the audiophile accessory companies don't sell into these other high tech markets? That's simple. Look at their advertising. Do you think if some prestigious lab would install audiophile outlets they wouldn't splash that all over their brochures?

It just doesn't add up when you look outside the niche consumer audiophile market. This is my "open mided" view of the issue. Audio is electrical voltages. That's a fact. So to say these claims are only relevant in consumer audio systems is pretty closed minded IMO.

*Just for reference, a green dot hospital outlet costs about $10 retail. A low leakage power cord costs about $20.


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## AudiocRaver (Jun 6, 2012)

Glimmie said:


> Not everybody has a technical background in electronics. Therefore the common approach is to try these products and see what you get. OTOH, those with technical backgrounds do have the training and experience to know why these products can't work as advertised. This is why many naysayers don't bother to try the devices.
> 
> Here's another thing to consider:
> 
> ...


I am not disagreeing with you in any way. I have a technical background as well and rely heavily on specs, science, and lab proof. When the subjective and objective do not sync, I know I have to dig deeper.

I am also interested in the processes that are used by those who rely mainly on the subjective in making their decisions, and simply wanted to hear how Glen goes about it.


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## AudiocRaver (Jun 6, 2012)

Glimmie said:


> I too run a 6kva balanced power system house wide made from a 480/240v transformer running with 240v in and 60-0-60 out.


Catching up on earlier parts of this thread...

I understand the benefits of balanced signal runs, had not thought about it for power distribution. Have you been able to measure the difference it makes for power-related noise? I am actually not sure how one would go about doing that, just curious if you had come up with a way.

It seems safe for equipment with a 3-wire grounded power plug and chassis connected to ground wire, how about 2-wire (hot and neutral only) equipment? A fair amount of AV equipment does not have chassis ground these days. I recently worked with an AVR that has the 3-wire plug at the wall, but only hot and neutral at the equipment end of the power cable. Any safety concerns there?


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## lcaillo (May 2, 2006)

All equipment has isolation between the chassis ground and the power lines. The chassis has to be safe to touch in all cases. A unit with three wire a.c. has the neutral isolated and the ground connected to the chassis, but the ground and neutral both go back to the same earth ground at the electrical service. The ground is a safety path, but the fact that the ground and neutral are isolated at the equipment power supply makes for a long path to where they are common. The impedance in that path provides a circuit that can oscillate even if most of the current that would harm someone has a path to ground.


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## Glimmie (Apr 26, 2012)

Also note that a balanced power system still has a safety ground and that must be bonded to the building electrical ground.

There is a ungrounded system used in critical healthcare facilities like operating rooms and ICU. Here the ground goes through a fault sensor and alarm so if there is too much ground leakage a, alarm sounds but the power is not cut so that critical life support equipment is not shut down. This is obviously highly specialized and subject to very high code scrutiny.


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