# TRIO12 SonoSub build



## ehkewley (Mar 25, 2010)

This is my first attempt at a DIY subwoofer build. I chose the CSS TRIO12 based on cost and positive reviews. I also liked the idea of the sonotube taking up less floor space.

Specs:

Diameter 16" 
Volume 4.697 ft^3 
Tuning 20.50 Hz
Port Size 6" 
Amp 500 watt Bash
EQ 18.7hz
1db boost at 27hz 

Finding sonotube was the hardest part! I called several concrete, forms, and construction businesses all of which were not in the business of selling tubes. I finally lucked out with a tile and masonry store which sold to contractors and Do-it-yourselfers. Unfortunately they only sold 12' sections, so I had to purchase a lot, but thankfully the kid who helped me load it cut it in half for me.

Originally I was going to follow the standard practice of two layers of MDF for the top and bottom caps. While at Lowes, I spotted an 18" round piece of wood that I thought would look nice. It's constructed from glued together pine boards, and edges are rounded over. I'm hoping to use three of these for the top, bottom, and floor piece.








*WinISD Measurements*








*Sonosub
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*I read somewhere that using wrapping paper would help give a straight line on a tube.. also picked up the spray paint tip as well.
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*Spray paint mask made a nice line*









*Cutting circles out. Thankfully I also read a warning about adjusting for outer diameter cuts (lots of helpful tips on this site)
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*Test fitting circle inserts in piece of scrap tube.*








*Stained end cap.
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So far I'm pretty happy with the build. The amp and speakers are on order. I still need to figure out how to add the dowels for the base plate. Lastly I used a small jigsaw (with many teeth on blade) for cutting the tube. It made for a clean cut.


Questions:


- When mounting the dowels to the bottom plate and floor plate, does it make more sense to recess the dowels into both plates? If so, is there a technique for drilling to a particular depth without a drill press?

- I tried peeling some of the waxy material off of the cut off end piece of the cardboard tube. In order to do so, i had to take a light layer of the cardboard (paper width) material off with it. Is this fine? Should the waxy material itself separate?


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## kadijk (Jan 23, 2011)

Nice build so far! Your construction looks good. Depending on the dowel diameter for the feet, you could use your router and circle jig, or use a flat bottomed drill bit like a forstner bit to drill the dado's. I'd be tempted to just glue and screw- the right glue and a well placed screw and it would be solid.


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

> Should the waxy material itself separate?


I guess it will depend on the way the tube is manufactured. I was able to peel off the transparent release film from my tube.


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## ironglen (Mar 4, 2009)

Mike P. said:


> I guess it will depend on the way the tube is manufactured. I was able to peel off the transparent release film from my tube.


My 24" tube had a similar film that wanted to tear easily, while the 14" tubes had more of a waxy layer, so I peeled a thicker layer off, probably akin you what you did. The tubes were pretty thick, so I didn't worry about it nor do I think you should. The micro-thin 12" tube I picked up at Lowes/Home Depot can't afford much 'skinning'.

Nice documentation, work, and pics :T


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