# First DIY Basement Home theater



## gskinusa (Dec 21, 2008)

Hi
Finally after reading a lot over the years about home theaters and challenges of constructing one I have decided to convert a part of my unfinished basement in to a home theater room. As usual I look forward to all your knowledge and valuable guidance in completing this task.

I have attached the initial Plan diagram for the room. I have tried to have everything matching to scale so all the items are envisioned to be in that exact particular location as depicted in the diagram. So please take a look and provide any thoughts or ideas that you think will make this better. The speaker locations obviuosly will need to be finalized based on the effect but for now I have put them in to give an idea.

Obviously budget is a constraint, so as I move along this project I will be coming back to you all for ideas that would save money and the same time help me construct a better home theater.

Thanks again for your time and thoughts.


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## chadcummings (Apr 26, 2008)

The first thing I would change is the double door to a single door. That way it is not only easier to seal as far as sound proofing, but is a cheaper install.

If possible you should put a return vent near your projector to help with the heat generated by it.

Looks like your first row is 14' back, are you going 16x9 or 1:2.35. You could probably go with a DIY 2.35 screen 120" wide at that distance with no problems.


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## gskinusa (Dec 21, 2008)

Thanks for the reply. I will definetly consider using a single door (wife's preference).
Regarding the vent, based on your suggestion should I move the current 2 HVAC one to the projector and another near the screen. Will that make sense.
The distance from the screen to the first row (head placement) is 12.5ft. I was thinking of 16:9 screen. Also, I was thinking of going for a Da Lite Cinema Vision 110". Do you think I can pull of a 120". By the way the projector I have is Optoma HD 65 if it makes any difference.
Thanks


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## gskinusa (Dec 21, 2008)

Also, here are the number of outlets and the different ports I am thinking of having. The switches matches with the numbers in the main diagram. The pricing is based on Monoprice item price but still approximated. Looking forward for feedback on this.


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## chadcummings (Apr 26, 2008)

I would not put the actual AC vent at the PJ but a return there due to heat and cold mixing to cause possible condensation issues depending on how hot and how cold.

There are some nice xls sheets out there that help you calculate what will work. At 12.5 feet to the first row I would definitely go with a 120" 2.35 screen.

I have not used the HD 65 myself but looking at the specs you should be ok if you have a room that you control all the light entering. If your windows let any light in you may have a problem.

Looking again at your drawing, it looks like your sub is about 6' out from the corner on the right side of the room. Not knowing what you have for a sub, you will pick up significant gain by placing it in a corner, your left corner should do as it is not obstructed. You can also cause nulls from having the sub that far forward in the room.


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## gskinusa (Dec 21, 2008)

Thanks for the reply. I can control the light very well as the windows in the basement are not that big. I have SVS PB13 Ultra sub and the position in the diagram is just a reference but I understand your point. Will definetly consider that while placing the sub. Thanks


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

If I've read your drawing correctly, you are showing 3 speakers on the back wall..
Why 3?. With a 7.1 system you only need two on the back wall..

Also, I have a 108" wide 2.35:1 screen with the Optoma HD65 and it's very bright, so you could easily go to 120"..

The only other thing I would be concerned about is that front right corner window..
To apply corner bass traps to the front wall, you may need to fill in that window, if it's very close to the front wall..
Otherwise, it looks good..:T


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## gskinusa (Dec 21, 2008)

Thanks. I have the rear center in place just to have the outlet put in and just as a placeholder so if I decide to switch the things around I will have outlet for a center speaker.

That front right window is way high up. Its 1ft in height and 1.8ft length and its at the top of the 9ft wall. If needed I can definetly close it but I am not sure it will be needed. Please let me know if you think otherwise.


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

With it high up like that, it won't be a problem..
Looking forward to your progress..


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Be very careful with power being very close to low level cabling. Many of your wall plates have that. It can be a large source of noise.

Bryan


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## gskinusa (Dec 21, 2008)

Thanks for identifying that. I will keep that in mind. What will be the typical distance between power and low level cabling. Just to clarify the diagram, Switches 1,2,3,4,5,8,9 are the outlets in the room to which the different equipments if needed can be connected. The switch 6 and 7 are the other end of the switches 1,2,3,4,5,8,9 to provide the input. I have the sub power also coming through swtich 6 as then I can manage the quality of volt/amp through the common power controller I have in the component room. This is the same for Projector (which will be attached in the room through switch 9). If I could not have minimal distance required for preventing problems is there any type of shielded wires that I can use. I was planning to run PVC conduits for the different outlets and thinking of having 2 conduits for each switch so A/V can run through one and the power through another. Please let me know your thoughts.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

It's OK for the connections to be in the same plate. Differen conduit is a good idea. Try not to run the wires parallel if closer than 1' to each other along the way.

Bryan


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## gskinusa (Dec 21, 2008)

Thanks. I will keep that in mind. 

I was thinking of what type of screen to get and is it worth while to invest more and go with Balck Diamond 2 even though it is 4 times the price of the projector. So when I am ready to move on to a 1080p projector I will be all set. Or is it worth to spend on a less expensive screen for now and when upgrading the projector I can upgrade the screen also. Honestly I have no idea when I will decide to change the projector so not sure what to do. I am more concerned with whether HD65 can perform well with Black Diamond or not. Any suggestions.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Personally, if you're considering spending 4x the PJ price for a screen, I'd maybe spend a little more on the screen and upgrade the PJ now - unless you just bought it.

Bryan


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

I'm not familiar with the Black Diamond screen, but in a light controlled environment any good quality 1.0 - 1.2 gain white screen (of the size you're considering) will be suitable for the HD65 and for any later upgrade..


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## gskinusa (Dec 21, 2008)

Thank you both for your reply. I will stay away from spending lot of money at this time.


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## gskinusa (Dec 21, 2008)

I am looking to put in drop ceiling for the room and was wondering what type of sound proofing I can do. I did contact some one from sound isolation company and got some details and here they are:
Resilmount
Tubes of Green Glue
Tubes of SilenSeal Acoustical Caulk

Is this enough to ensure the ceiling is properly sound proof (does not need to be perfect). Or is there something else that is required. I understand, I need to put basic isolation like R-30 or R-19/

If I go with the basic tile with the things mentioned above will that be enough or should I need to look for acoustic tiles?

I read lot of the threads but could not come to a proper conclusion. So any thoughts will be helpful. Thanks again to all of you for your time in helping me with this.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

With a drop ceiling, there's not much point in trying to do much soundproofing. There are a couple things you can do to help a little.

You can try mass loaded vinyl hung loosely to the bottoms of the joists above the ceiling. That will give a bit of resistance. You can also cut drywall squares the same size as the tiles and set them on top of each of them to add some mass.

Also, if you're cutting holes in the tiles for can lights, those are big sound leaks.

In any case, you'll want to insulate above.

Bryan


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## gskinusa (Dec 21, 2008)

Do I need to still use R-30 insulation if I use MLV?


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

You'll still want to damp the cavity above the vinyl. You'll want to damp it if you do the drywall on the tiles too. 

Bryan


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## gskinusa (Dec 21, 2008)

Thanks for the clarification. so we have the framing then insulation then MLV between the insulation and framing studs and then the drop ceiling. Can I use 2 layers of MLV is that better or use the resilent clips and 1 layer of MLV?. I think both might cost the same but wanted to know which one can provide better isolation.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Not sure where you'd use the resilient clips. Are you talking about DC-04 clips to decouple the walls from the joists above?

Don't bother with 2 layers of MLV. One layer with insulation above will work well. The trick is to overlap them a bit and not get them stretched tight so the mass can work while still having some 'give' to it to further absorb some of the bass waves.

Bryan


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## gskinusa (Dec 21, 2008)

Yes the clips are to decouple the walls from the joists above. Will they be effective in case of a drop ceiling or will be good only in case of dry wall installation?.


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## gskinusa (Dec 21, 2008)

By the way thanks for your thoughts on whether to use dual layer of MLV or not. I will go with 1 layer as suggested.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Well, decoupling the walls will help a little. If you're going to do the MLV, I guess it's still worth the investment. Not sure I'd spend the money on GG and double drywall though.

Bryan


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## chadcummings (Apr 26, 2008)

I have read many differing views on the MLV vs DWggDW.

BPAPE, I could have sworn you had even advised before on using GG


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

In a room where you have all drywall surfaces, absolutely. Double drywall and GG is the way to go hands down. In this case, he has a drop ceiling which is a HUGE hole in the room. 

In this case, I recommended the MLV up at the bottoms of the joists, loosely, above the drop ceiling to try to provide a little extra isolation. My comments were purely in this specific case as to whether using double drywall and GG was a logical expenditure given the huge loss that will occur via the ceiling.

Bryan


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## chadcummings (Apr 26, 2008)

Aahh, open mouth insert leg. i missed the drop ceiling part.


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## Bruce Fisher (Nov 24, 2007)

As Bryan notes - drop ceilings are tough... you can't totally sound proof it. The goals I had with mine was to minimize the sound transfer (can't eliminate it), and ensure no rattles/vibrations from it.

I did a few things:
1) added more braces from the joists above to the drop ceiling grid. This was to ensure it could handle adding weight to it. Probably wasn't needed but I feel better  (My ceiling above had insulation in all the joists already - if it didn't I definitely would have done that too).

2) bought good acoustical tiles. These are heavy... not the lightweight tiles you see in offices. Each 2x2 square is probably 2-3 pounds and a good 2" thick. They aren't cheap (thankfully my theater ceiling already had these)... about $8 a piece iirc.

3) add soundproof insulation above. I opted for Quiet Batt over regular insulation. I'm very glad I did - this stuff is really good (my personal, non-professional opinion). No worrying about fiberglass itchy (although I still wore a mask to reduce dust breathed). This material is pretty dense and absorbs nicely. Its lots of recycled towels, etc all compressed together. It was easy to work with (a pain to cut or rip if needed less than a full piece). I believe it's better than pink insulation - but definitely cost more.

4) added a layer of MLV on top. I opted for 1 lb/sq ft but they offer it in 2. Basically added a couple hundred pounds of weight to my ceiling.

The results? HUGE improvement. Very little sound goes up and out of the room (yes, you can hear it upstairs when very loud downstairs, but its very muffled and muted and won't wake the kids). No rattles or noises from the ceiling.

If I were to do it again, I'd seriously consider Bryan's suggestion about adding a layer of drywall ontop of the ceiling tiles before doing any of the above improvements. Weight is a big help (in my opinion).

I believe I have some pictures of it in my thread... if not ask me and I can post some.

< edit: nope, didn't have any. added some (someone else asked me via PM too) >


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## gskinusa (Dec 21, 2008)

Thanks everyone for detail explanations. So based on this, in my situation, I can have the following:
[][][][] Joists
===== MLV
+++++ Quite Bat
_-_-_-_ Dry Wall 
_______ Tiles (if possible connected through the resilent clips)

Bruce, 
The $8 is it for the each acoustic tile. Can you let me know where you got that from. I looked at the acoustic tiles but they seem to be really costly but if its worth it then I guess I have to go with that. 

Having said that if putting drywall is has a better effect and cheaper than the tile then I think it is better to consider that. Do you guys think it is cheaper to go with the drywall. If that is the case why many ppl go for drop ceiling , is it just for the convenience of taking care of anything above it in the future (like wires, ducts etc).

Thanks again for the explanations.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Put the insulation above the MLV up in the joist cavities.

Bryan


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## Bruce Fisher (Nov 24, 2007)

bryan - i laid the quiet batt right on the drop ceiling and layed the MLV right on top of it. My joist cavities already had insulation. I've been really happy with that approach - the drop ceiling makes no noises (rattles, creaks, etc). But are you saying I should have mounted the MLV to the joists above? I figured the extra weight on the drop ceiling was part of the goal...

gsk - I found a local specialty store here in town that does drop ceilings and purchased a 8 pack of panels from them (needed to replace a few panels when we built some of the walls). If found plenty of distributors on the internet but shipping added up quickly! Thankfully i could pick them up locally.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

That will work fine Bruce.

It's still allowing the vinyl to be loose and move a bit. 

Bryan


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