# Speaker Impedance Diagram - Complex



## todj (Nov 25, 2010)

I have seen several wire diagrams on the internet but I can't seem to find one to fit my specific needs. The goal is to design and build my own speaker cabinets (DIY) from sites such as:

http://www.zalytron.com/
http://www.parts-express.com/
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/welcome.php


My concern is that I don't have a resistance (ohm/impedance) calculator to take into account the different resistance combination presented by so many unique drivers. My goal is to install 8+ drivers in each (one) speaker box. What do you guys use?


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

Are they all going to be identical drivers or are you planning on a two or three way design?
If they are not all identical then you need to build a crossover to separate the high and low frequencies.

Can you provide more details on what exactly you are hoping to build.


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## todj (Nov 25, 2010)

I am looking for AT LEAST a 3 way design.....possibly adding a subwoofer (bash type plate amp) to the bottom. I want two solid L & R channel speakers comprised of several tweeters (ScanSpeak Illuminator D2004/6020-00 maybe ), midranges (Scanspeak Revelator 18W/4531G00 maybe )and (~12" Peerless SLS's maybe?) midbasses if possible.


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## todj (Nov 25, 2010)

http://www.parts-express.com/project-gallery-speaker-project-the-dayton-storms

http://projectgallery.parts-express.com/speaker-projects/the-dayton-storms/

Something like this but with nicer drivers.


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## dgmartin (Oct 29, 2011)

3 way design is fine but you probably do not need 8 drivers per side. Integration/directivity might difficult to achieve unless you are seating far away. Assuming you limit yourself to one tweeter per side, the low (~1.7kHz) crossover point required to the 18W (or any 7in woofer) will make a dome tweeter the weakest link if the 18W does not handle the bass. You might get more output using a smaller midrange that lets you pick a higher crossover point. I own 18W8531's and they are wonderful drivers for getting low bass (around 30Hz) at limited volumes without a sub but you won't benefit from that if crossed over to a woofer. You still pay for that unused extension in terms of efficiency and required cabinet size (relatively high Qts).

To come back to your OP, it is is always best to first build a well-documented and tested design. Google zaph audio or troels gravesen just to name a few. Once you have built it and tested/measured the response you will have a better idea of the design process and invest your time/money wisely in your next build. If anything, just ask.


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## todj (Nov 25, 2010)

I am not looking for speaker designs. I am looking for a wire diagram breaking down what the overall ohm load is going to be on each speaker. If it could explain what % of wattage will be going to each speaker that would be even better.


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## dgmartin (Oct 29, 2011)

todj said:


> I am not looking for speaker designs. I am looking for a wire diagram breaking down what the overall ohm load is going to be on each speaker. If it could explain what % of wattage will be going to each speaker that would be even better.


I'm not 100% sure I'm getting the meaning of your question. I think you would like to know the total "ohm load" of each speaker (here "speaker" meaning the sum of all the drivers connected to one channel). And you would also like to know the % of power going to each drive unit (e.g. tweeter, mid, woofer...) installed within the speaker?


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## todj (Nov 25, 2010)

Yes and yes!


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## dgmartin (Oct 29, 2011)

Good. I will use "drivers" for the individual drive units from now on. From your OP, I assume by "wire diagrams" you refer to the electrical schematic of the crossover. Do you already understand that the "ohm load" will vary with frequency for each driver? This is why we normally use "impedance" instead of "ohm" since it includes more than the resistive part of the load, but also the inductive and capacitive part. Also, what calculation "tools" do you have at available?


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## todj (Nov 25, 2010)

I apologize for using ohm and impedance interchangeably when they actually aren't. I don't have any tools.


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## dgmartin (Oct 29, 2011)

todj said:


> I am looking for AT LEAST a 3 way design.....





todj said:


> I am not looking for speaker designs.





todj said:


> I apologize for using ohm and impedance interchangeably when they actually aren't. I don't have any tools.


I'm still confused by what you are trying to achieve and why you are not considering a proven design to learn from it. Are you looking to design a speaker from scratch? Did you already purchase some drivers?


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## todj (Nov 25, 2010)

I want a proven 4 way design. I don't have any drivers and if someone had a proven 4 way design already in existence I would gladly use it.


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## dgmartin (Oct 29, 2011)

Factors you need to consider:
Price & Dimensions
Target usage: HT/Music
Room dimensions (volume)
Distance from back and side wall
Current speakers: pros & cons, what would you like to improve
DIY considerations: Cabinet complexity & Available tools 

Here is guide to help you in your decision.
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/choices.htm

Is there any particular reason you want a 4-way design instead of 3 way?


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## todj (Nov 25, 2010)

My main goal is to get a set of speakers with absolutely INSANE midbass. I have the subwoofer section covered well. My midbass is decent - that's not enough. I have a fairly large room. It is a dedicated HT. I have access to DIY tools. I have great woodworking skills. I have no experience/knowledge in assembling crossovers though.


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## dgmartin (Oct 29, 2011)

todj said:


> My main goal is to get a set of speakers with absolutely INSANE midbass. I have the subwoofer section covered well. My midbass is decent - that's not enough. I have a fairly large room. It is a dedicated HT. I have access to DIY tools. I have great woodworking skills. I have no experience/knowledge in assembling crossovers though.


Not knowing what you own, its tough to evaluate how to go from decent to insane. 

If I get what you mean and size is not an issue, I would consider a pair of efficient 15in pro-woofer per side over home "hi-fi" drivers. Any opinions on the designs I linked to?


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## todj (Nov 25, 2010)

I have a 12.4 Surround sound. 

For amplification I have: Onkyo TX-NR708 running to 5 Klipsch Quintet surround speakers, and the rear 2 channels are Klipsch SB3's

I also have an Adcom GFA 7805 running to my mains 
Center: RC3
Front L & R: Paradigm Monitor 7's
Rear L & R: Klipsch RF3's

For subwoofer amplification I have 4 Crown XTI4000's running to 4 18" subwoofers:

TC SOUNDS LMS5400
TC SOUNDS PRO 5100
RESONANT ENGINEERING (XBL2) XXX
RE AUDIO XXX (ORIGINAL FROM RE - NOT THE LATEST VERSION)



Out of the options you posted a few jump out at me so far: Illuminator-5 & ZDT 3.5,


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## dgmartin (Oct 29, 2011)

I agree you have the sub section covered well... I'd like to have this myself!

The illuminator-5 does seem like a nice speaker, which was not there back when I visited this website. The use of the 12MU midrange addresses the issue I was highlighting about the tweeter limitation (Post #5) when crossed over to a 7in woofer. The designer mentioned it made a great difference and in my opinion this is not an overstatement. If you have the woodworking skills, then go for it! 

The crossover layout is already on the website and that simplifies your greatly (I find that the layout of a circuit is the most time consuming part). The soldering portion is not difficult once you know 3 or 4 basic principles. I did my Nathan crossover point-to-point as Troels is doing and it’s the way I prefer.

The crossover point to the 26W (10in) woofer is 80Hz, you can likely do without it given your subs. Save your money or get a second 22W to provide extra (insane) output capability in the 80-180Hz range.


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