# Sticky  Making A DIY Anamorphic Lens



## Prof.

If anyone has ever considered making their own lens, but felt it would be beyond their capabilities, this DIY article that was published sometime ago might just change your mind..

It's a very straight forward description of what's required to produce a very reasonable Anamorphic lens..
Anyone with any Carpentry skills should be able to make up the lens box..and the method of setting up the prisms is clearly explained and shown..

http://www.zuggsoft.com/theater/prism.htm


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## yourgrandma

I'd make one of those in a heartbeat, but the picture would be wider than the room. Sure would be nice to get extra screen size with no major degradation in picture quality.


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## Prof.

How wide is your room!!?
My theatre room is only 10'6" wide, but I have an 8' wide scope screen..

One of the advantages of scope screens is their low profile, which means you have more space to mount speakers above or below the screen, in narrow room situations..


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## Mike P.

Excellent article, Prof. I wonder if the bigger the prisms are the less pincushion effect there will be.


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## Prof.

Mike...Unfortunately no..
The only thing that affects pincushion is the throw ratio..The longer the throw ratio, the less pincushion effect..

The advantages of the larger prisms is that they can be used with a variety of projectors, and possibly help to collect maximum light output from the projector..


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## Mark Techer

Whilst the DIY lens has tradionally being a prisms lens, it may be possible to do (more difficult and expensive, none the less) to make a DIY cylindrical.

Anyone interested in discussing this?

Mark


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## Mike P.

You have my attention. Are there any advantages to a cylindrical lens over a prism lens?


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## atledreier

Definetly interested! This is intriguing. I like cheap DIY as long as it works.


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## Mark Techer

MikeP said:


> You have my attention. Are there any advantages to a cylindrical lens over a prism lens?


Many, including the ability to focus, which you can not do with prisms...



atledreier said:


> Definetly interested! This is intriguing. I like cheap DIY as long as it works.


No, will not be cheap...

Mark


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## Prof.

Sounds very interesting Mark...
Are these cylindrical lens elements readily available?


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## Mark Techer

Prof. said:


> Sounds very interesting Mark...
> Are these cylindrical lens elements readily available?


No. I am having them made to my specs. I have pricing and it makes a fully corrected cylindrical lens "affordable", but ultimately not cheap - still a couple of grand...but half the price of anything currently on the market in the same class...

Mark


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## Prof.

I presume that you would need a quantity of lens elements to be made up to keep the cost down..
Will it be a viable proposition considering the lack of interest that was shown towards the Mark 111 lens?


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## Mark Techer

This lens will not sell like the older prism lens, and the pricing I have been given are for a 1 off only. Only time will tell if this is viable enough to mass produce, but at least I end up with a new, fully performing anamorphic lens... 

Mark


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## Prof.

Well if I ever win the Lotto..I'll put in an order for one..:bigsmile:

In the meantime I'm still very happy with the Mark 1..:T


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## Mark Techer

Yes, and I was happy too, then someone showed me better...

Mark


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## dac83

sad that they don't come cheaper in store, i don't know if a can build one with good results..


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## Prof.

Just about anyone can make their own lens ..
If you have any basic carpentry skills, then it's not going to be a problem..
There is plenty of information available for setting up the prisms..and a few places where you can purchase them..

Alternatively, if you don't feel that it's something you want to do yourself, there are kits available where you just do some of the assembly..And it costs a fraction of the price of a commercial lens..:T


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## CompguyRG

I finally got my home theater up and running and now its time to start adding the fun stuff. I specifically built the screen so that I could use an anamorphic lens, but I have to admit a DIY approach is intimidating. I am sure up to try anything, but I would sure feel more comfortable if there was a step by step construction site or something. Any ideas/links? I'd also be willing to look into the kits, but I seem to be having difficulty finding them. Prof if you have those links handy I'd love to see them. 

With all that being said, if I had the coin I'd be charging in after that Mark III I've read a little about on your website, Mark. :yes: But unfortunately I've used my funds to get the theater up in the first place. 

The only seller I've seen for less than $1k has been Home Theater Bro's and if you get a track it comes close. 

Appreciate the help in advance and let me know if you EVER have some kind of sale or discount Mark, I'll be interested :innocent:


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## Prof.

This link gives a good explanation on how to build a lens..
http://www.zuggsoft.com/theater/prism.htm


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## mnfish

Hi! I'm new to the site. I'm also looking at doing a DIY lens. I read the article on the DIY lens but it doesn't say what size prisms to use? Anyone have a guide to go by? I have a BenQ W5000 and am looking at a DIY 110" CIH 2:35:1 screen. Also he states that to get the best picture to use 4 prisms? Don't most commercial lenses use just 2? 

Thanx :T


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## Prof.

Well firstly..welcome to the Shack mnfish..

Ideally the prisms for a DIY lens need to be 5" x7"..This size will be suitable for most projectors..

Most commercial lenses these days are using 4 prisms plus corrective elements..
These types of lens units are beyond a DIY set up..but the 2 prism lenses do a fine job and well worth the effort..:T


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## mnfish

Thanx for the Hello!! 

The reason I ask about the number prisms is that 4 of them seem to do away with the rainbow affect on the outer edge of the screen? Or would it be better to have a curved screen? Is that just too much to get into for a simple home theater screen? And looking at cost of the prisms...they aren't that cheap? The ones I was looking at were $66 US each.


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## Prof.

A curved screen won't have effect on any Chromatic Aberrations that you see at the sides of a screen.
Curving the screen helps to reduce pin cushion effect..

You need to use the best quality prisms you can find, so there is a premium to pay..


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## mnfish

Anyone have or know someone that has used this lens? And if so what are the thoughts? It uses 4 prisms. 

http://www.anamorphiclens.com.au/


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## Prof.

I know of many people who have Marks new Mk.3 lens..In Aus, UK and the US and ALL are very impressed with the quality of the build and the image it produces..
It's right up there with the best of any 4 element prismatic lens..and very reasonably priced..:T


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## Mark Techer

I've not posted in a while and thought some might like to see the latest developments. 

The CAVX Corrector

And of course the best of the best, the MK4.

It is pretty impressive when you can see pixel structure on an AT screen.

It seems I can not attach images, so here is the link to the image I am referring to. Click on the with the word "FOCUS" in the centre. If you look closely, you can see fine lines in both the Horizontal and Vertical lines of the Test Pattern. They are the interpixel gaps of a 1080 DLP.


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## Prof.

Quite remarkable Mark..:clap: :T
You certainly have come a long way with the advent of the Mk.1V!
How are sales going?..It seems that there just isn't the interest in anamorphic projection these days..
I've also noticed that there's not a lot of A lens activity on the AVS forum these days either..

I think a lot of people who had considered going anamorphic, are now looking more at the preset AR projectors, as a cheaper alternative..

Good luck with the new lens..


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## Mark Techer

There is plenty of interest, just not too many people prepared to pay the price for a high quality lens.


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## SAY IT LOUD

I am after one how much is the Mk4?


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## SAY IT LOUD

Hi Prof i cant find the build specs for the housing (BOX) only where to get the prisms in AU. Cheers


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## Prof.

SAY IT LOUD said:


> I am after one how much is the Mk4?


You'll need to contact Mark through his Blog for pricing..
http://cavx.blogspot.com/


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## Prof.

SAY IT LOUD said:


> Hi Prof i cant find the build specs for the housing (BOX) only where to get the prisms in AU. Cheers


I don't think any specs for the housing was published..
It will of course depend on the size of the prisms..
If the prisms you refer to are the ones used in Marks earlier models, then I can pass on the dimensions of my housing to you..


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## SAY IT LOUD

www.evright.com Crystal Anamorphic Lens 14cm wide x 17cm high is this the size? if so your build specs would be fantastic thank you.


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## Prof.

Yes..that's the same size as my prisms..
I'll PM the dimensions to you later today..


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## SAY IT LOUD

Cheers Prof


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## SAY IT LOUD

Should i black out the the outside edge right around or just the back larger area of the prism. cheers Troy


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## Prof.

You only need to blackout the thick end of the prisms..

My original prism ends were blacked out with flock tape, but the backing on the tape actually reflected the image!
If you looked at the lens from the side, you could see a reflection of the image!!

I removed the flock tape and painted the ends with a special matt black glass paint..and I would recommend that you use a similar product..
It's a 2 pack application..consisting of a glass primer and a carbon black fluid acrylic..
This product is available from Artists supplies..The brand I found was Jo Sonja's..which I bought online..


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## SAY IT LOUD

ok will be building my Anamorphic lens this long week end. I will be making a new screen but should i go 2:35 0r 2:37 screen? cheers Troy


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## Prof.

I actually made mine 2.39:1..Cinema screen aspect ratio..


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## SAY IT LOUD

Ok 2:39 it is . My calculations are H 1350mm x W 3226.50mm is this correct? Can i round the width off to 3230? Cheers


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## Prof.

That will be fine..
That's going to be a nice size scope screen..:T


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## SAY IT LOUD

Thanks i cant wait. I had all the mdf cut exactly perfect to the specs i am glueing it together now. I have the black velvet but i need to buy the mouse pads tomorrow. New 2:39 screen tomorrow and finishing DIY centre speaker with black wood grain vynil laminate. Oh and making 5 bass traps this week end plus 2 corner traps floor to ceiling. Cheers


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## Prof.

Do you have a piece of MDF the height you require, or are you butt joining a piece for the extra height and width.?
What thickness are you using?


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## SAY IT LOUD

I used your measurements exactly. I noticed there is a bracket around the lens for adjustment I will be making it tomorrow. If I can work out how to attach a pic I could show you my build but right now I cant see how to do it in a reply. 

I painted my sub today in black metal finish looks great next I will be making a grill for it with speaker cloth. cheers


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## Prof.

To add photo's to your post you will need to put the pics into a program like Photobucket..
You then select "Go Advanced" on the reply form..so you can preview your post.
Copy the IMG link of the photo in Photobucket, and paste it directly to your post..


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## Mark Techer

It can't hurt to black out the sides that you don't want light to exit from. I actually want to black out the edges of my high end cylindrical lenses.


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## SAY IT LOUD

Hope this works? http://s752.photobucket.com/albums/xx163/MADTHX/?action=view&current=101_0700.jpg&newest=1


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## Prof.

Yep..that worked..
It's starting to take shape!


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## SAY IT LOUD

Hi Prof the lens is really taking shape. I have black glass paint but it is gloss finish is this ok?


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## Prof.

That's good to hear THX!

Unfortunately that black paint won't be suitable..Even though it's black, it will look glossy through the edge of the prism, and still reflect light..
What you need is stated here..It's the only product I know of that's readily available..and it's the flattest black possible..When applied it looks like the chemical black that's used inside camera lenses.. 

"It's a 2 part application..consisting of a glass primer and a carbon black fluid acrylic..
This product is available from Artists supplies..The brand I found was Jo Sonja's..which I bought online.."


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## SAY IT LOUD

can you give me the website or biz you bought from please.


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## Prof.

Here you go..

This is the primer.. http://josonja.net/index.php?option...ypage&Itemid=28&category_id=35&product_id=585

And this is the carbon black..http://josonja.net/index.php?option...page=&category_id=31&product_id=187&Itemid=28


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## SAY IT LOUD

I finished my Anamorphic lens today 3 weeks in the making wow Prof my 2.39 DIY sreen looks amazing and the picture WOW CINEMA at home YEAH. thanks for all help Prof i will post pics tomorrow.


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## Prof.

Glad to hear that you've got it finished and working nicely Mr THX..:yay: :clap:
I'm only too happy to have helped you and to have another anamorphic enthusiast in the making..
I'll look forward to seeing some pics of your work..


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## SAY IT LOUD

I have a small problem the picture lines up ok on the sides of the screen but i cant get the picture to fill the screen top and bottom i have a grey bar top and bottom and the bottom line has a slight arc (Curve) How can i get it to fill the top and bottom ie the whole screen? i have played with the prisms but i cant get it to fill the screen. 

When the projector is on i get the blue screen it fills the screen but it goes off the screen at the bottom on an angle greater on one side. I need help please Prof.


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## Prof.

OK..To set up the lens correctly, you need to do the following...
You may have done some of this already, but I'll just go through the whole procedure in the correct sequence..

Anamorphic lens removed..

1. Firstly, set the zoom on the projector to minimum..
2. Play a 16:9 movie and make sure that the image is centred on the screen and fills the height of the screen..
If it doesn't, you can do one of two things..
Zoom the image to fill the screen height, or don't zoom and move the projector back to fill the screen..
The latter is preferable but not always possible..
A small amount of zoom will be ok..

Anamorphic lens in position..

Once you have the 16:9 image filling the screen, move the lens into position, making sure that the projector lens is centred within the prisms, and the anamorphic lens is square to the projector..

Adjust the tilt of lens so that you have a small amount of overspill top and bottom..
If the prisms have been positioned correctly, you will also have a small amount of overspill at the sides..Otherwise, you will need to adjust the front and back prisms until you have the image filling the width of the screen..
If you have overspill on one side and not the other, don't move the lens left or right to compensate..The prisms need adjusting if that's the case..

The curved image at the top and bottom is known as "pincushion" and cannot be avoided..
The longer the throw ratio, the less pincushion you will have..
Providing you have good light absorbing black borders on your screen, you won't notice it..

I hope that fixes your problem..


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## SAY IT LOUD

Thanks Prof i will give it go after lunch thanks again


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## SAY IT LOUD

ok the only problem i have now is the pic goes off the screen at the bottom about 100mm it does line up good on the top and sides. any ideas Prof?


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## Prof.

It sounds like the lens needs to be tilted up or down, so that you get the same curved part of the image equidistant top and bottom..
If your projector is tilting slightly up or down, you might have to adjust the tilt on the projector to line it up parallel to the lens..
It is most critical that every thing is perfectly aligned..
It sounds like you're almost there..Just a little more adjustment needed


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## SAY IT LOUD

Problem fixed. I moved the projector closer ( i thought this but i hoped i could fix it without re positioning the lens and pj) Now the problem i got tonight when iwas about to watch a movie for the first time, the pj powered up then when off with the power light RED and the temp light on RED then after a minute turns off. 

I had this problem last year i simply blew compressed air through the front to remove dust and it worked. Tried to do it again with air and no go. I am dying to watch a movie with my new screen set up


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## Prof.

How disappointing when you've just got the projector and lens set up properly! :rant:

If the temp. light has come on just after you've started the projector, it could be that the fan is not working, in which case the unit would power off..


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## SAY IT LOUD

Here are some more pics of my DIY lens so easy to make enjoy. the top is not screwed down yet i did it after i took the pic.


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## Prof.

Looks like a professional one..Well done!.:bigsmile: :T
I bet you're busting to get that new projector!


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## AbeG

Hi All, 

I'm a completely new to this excisting world of home theatre. 

I have dedicated home theatre room, size is 3855 long x 4280 wide. 

Planning on using JVC HD550 projector.

I would like to embark on the journey of building my own Anamorphic Lens as well documented by the professor. My question is would anamorphic setup work in a room of this size with 100" Screen???

Your help is very much apprciated.
Thanking you in advance.

Abe


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## Prof.

Hi Abe and welcome..

Are you projecting down the length of the room or across the width?
I can only presume that it would be the length, unless there is a reason why you can't do that..
If it's the length then 14' with a 100" screen will be fine for anamorphic projection..

My room is 15' long and I'm projecting onto a 106" Scope screen..sitting 9'6" back from the screen..so you should be fine..
Nice projector choice!.:T


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## AbeG

Hi ya, Thanks for the quick reply. I will be projecting down the room, 3855mm which I believe equals 
12.64 feet. This doesn't take into account the length of the projector. Do you believe 100" Ananmorphic projection will still work in a room of this size.

Best Regards,
Abe


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## Prof.

Abe,

If your projection length is approx.12' then the projector you're proposing to use won't be suitable..
The HD550 is a long throw projector and according to the projectorcentral calculator, probably wouldn't fill a 100" scope image in that length..
To use a 100" scope screen in that length, you're going to need a shorter throw projector..
Why can't you project down the 14' dimension of that room? Then you would be able to use the JVC..


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## AbeG

Hi There, Apprciate the help however I'm now more confused than ever before. Getting conflicting information from different sources.

I looked into buying a LP Morgan Lens for use with HD500 projector.
Seller said they physically setup in a room of my size 3855mm (12.64 ft) and fit to 100" screen using this projector. This is a big investment for me, obviously need to be carefull & don't want to buy just because they say it will work.

I cannot change config of room due to location of door & window.

Apprciate your thoughts on this.

Kind Regards,
Abe


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## Prof.

Abe,

According to the projectorcentral calculator (which most people use to calculate projection distance) the HD550 set at 12' back from the screen, will require a scope screen with a height of 44"..That would mean having your screen width at 105".. and that calculates to a 114" diagonal screen..
Here are the details..http://www.projectorcentral.com/JVC-DLA-HD550-projection-calculator.htm


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## AbeG

Hi Prof, thanks for the info. So are you saying I can get 100" Anamorphic to work in a room of my size???

Cheers & Best Regards,
Abe


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## Prof.

Yes..Looking at the calculator for a 100" scope screen with no zoom on that projector, the projector would be approx.8.5' back..
That's going to give you a very bright image from that distance!..


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## Mark Techer

[commercial post] Mods please remove if inappropriate.

The topic of making a 4 prism DIY lens has once again come to my attention. In short, you need two prisms of different angles that are made of different materials that once bonded (with opposing apexes), form a new doublet prism. The use of 4 identical prisms does not correct CA.

If I was able to get enough interest, I might be able to produce a short order run.


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## Wull

HI there.

I've been reading this thread with great interest, this could be my next project. Does anyone know of a prism supplier in the UK?

Or where I could import a couple of finished prisms to have a play.

I found this http://www.surplusshed.com/pages/item/l9113d.html any thoughts?

Cheers.

Will


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## Mark Techer

The prisms from SS are the same prisms also known as "the French" prisms. Whilst they are made from BK7 and do feature optic coatings, they are not corrected for CA or astigmatism. They are actually quite small as well at about 80mm tall, so your throw needs to be quite long.


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## Wull

Hi Mark.

Think I'm OK there. My PJ 'jvc350' is 16ft away from my screen at present, and could go back another 4.5ft if required.

I would possibly use a 2.39 108" wide screen.


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## Wull

Mark Techer said:


> they are not corrected for CA or astigmatism.


Sorry, but what does this mean Mark?


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## lcaillo

magicj1 said:


> Sorry, but what does this mean Mark?


CA = Chromatic Aberation


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## Wull

lcaillo said:


> CA = Chromatic Aberation


I see, cheers.

Well if anyone could point me in the right direction for a suitable prism :T


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## Mark Techer

magicj1 said:


> I see, cheers.
> 
> Well if anyone could point me in the right direction for a suitable prism :T


Again, only if the mods permit discussion here about them.


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## Prof.

Mark..You can provide a link to an outside supplier if you have one..Otherwise, if it's your own then Will can PM you..


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## Mark Techer

Prof. said:


> Mark..You can provide a link to an outside supplier if you have one..Otherwise, if it's your own then Will can PM you..


Will has PM'd me, thanks.


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## tgregory73

So after my introduction I started reading through the
Anamorphic Projection section and who do I find but my friend
Mark Techer!

For those of you that want to jump down to the reason I am
posting in this thread and skip the flashback, go to the
bottom of the text in italics

For those who care about the backstory read on....

_**flashback music begins....screens fades away in waves.....**

I met Mark in 2004 on another HT forum.
Not too long after, he started talking about Scope and lost me in a blur of fuzzy math....but caught my attention back when I realized what in the he was talking about.
Mark had already moved way down the path of his own solution when in 2006 I won an MK1 in a competition on that other forum. (No, not the one you are thinking of....this was a much smaller forum)

We have stayed in touch via email over the years.

In 2009, My wife, son and I went to Australia on vacation
(holiday for the Aussies here).
We spent about a month in Brisbane and I got to see several
really nice Home Theaters (Alot of which had added some
version of the MK lens to their HT)

Jump to 2010, we caught up again at CEDIA in Atlanta. My wife
and I drove down for the weekend just to catch up and I
started talking to Mark about my new house and my new
plans....

**flashback music fades......screen fades in waves back to the

high definition clarity of the present.....**_

Now it's 2011 and my new HT is getting ready to become a
reality and I approached Mark about a possible DIY version of
the MK4. I wasn't sure how he would take my asking about
taking the lens he worked so hard to get just right and putting it in a case I would make....but he was very supportive. 
He mentioned a special offer that he was able to get in January for glass only for the MK4.
Just about a week ago I received an awesome package in the
mail!!!

Woohooo :bigsmile:My glass is here and I am ready to start designing my
case.

I have some great ideas and this looks like the perfect thread to log my progress.


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## Prof.

Welcome to the forum..

By all means post your details and progress with making up the MK.4..I for one will be most interested to see how it works out as I'm sure others will be as well..

If Mark is making a kit type lens available for the MK.4, then others may be interested in takiing this up as well..


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## Mark Techer

Prof. said:


> If Mark is making a kit type lens available for the MK.4, then others may be interested in takiing this up as well..


It had been on the "to do" list for some time. The challenge to making a DIY cylindrical is that the alignment of the two lenses is critical. Whilst a DIY prism lens allows for a fair amount of hit and miss, near enough is not good enough when you are using cylindrical lenes, and so I need to be mindful of this when designing the DIY case parts as well or no one will be able to assemble the lens.

The ONLY way to align the two lenses is to use single display lines mapped at 1:1 with the projector and you need to ensure the glass is 100% vertically aligned.


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## Prof.

Could you not make up some sort of simple jig to align the lenses that could be included in the kit..
I wouldn't even worry about including a case..This is something most people could make themselves if you included a drawing of the case with dimensions..


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## Mark Techer

There are three axis to consider and whilst X (depth) is variable, Y (width) and Z (height) MUST be aligned correctly or the or the lens won't focus properly and I haven't even mentioned rotation. You might remember I included a paper check test included with the Mk1. This is nothing like this, and the ONLY way to get this correct is to use single display pixel lines that run in both the H and V directions. So the DIY case I am creating will allow all the adjustments and (hopefully) allow you to get the best from the lens in your system.


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## Prof.

I see your point..This is not really a DIY case that just anyone can make up..
Looking forward to hearing further developments..


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## Mark Techer

Prof. said:


> I see your point..This is not really a DIY case that just anyone can make up..
> Looking forward to hearing further developments..


Not exactly a true DIY job. What I will do this week is draw up all the parts for the laser cutter to run me a prototype. After I have assembled it and worked any bugs out (I have a spare set of optics here for testing purposes), I will be able to start a production run. The end user could assemble this case themselves. The point is that there is a great deal of accuracy required in the design, so why I feel it is best to have all the parts duplicated from a machine rather than having each DIY lens being essentially a one off. 

The idea here is to offer an "affordable" solution to a high end problem. The challenge I face is that there seems to be a belief system in place that anything DIY is cheap. This glass used in this lens is not cheap and the cost cutting exercise here is the case where the machined alloy cases are expensive to produce forcing the price of the MK4 up to its listed price. Take that out of the equation and you have a very good product that more could afford.


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## Prof.

So each case is machined individually!?..That would be expensive..
Obviously, Injection Moulding would be a lot cheaper, but off course that's only practical with a large quantity of units..I see your dilemma..


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## grinthock

Others here may (like myself) have access to equipment to cut and machine a case as well.. So I am listening for sure.


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## Mark Techer

Prof. said:


> So each case is machined individually!?..That would be expensive..
> Obviously, Injection Moulding would be a lot cheaper, but off course that's only practical with a large quantity of units..I see your dilemma..


The joys of machining. For this case, the most economic way to do the case is to laser cut the plastic parts. That way, the case should be less than $100 each. 



grinthock said:


> Others here may (like myself) have access to equipment to cut and machine a case as well.. So I am listening for sure.


Given the price of the glass, is the little extra for a tested design really too much?


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## grinthock

Mark;

Well that being said nobody has discussed $$ yet... So if i'm saving $50 then it's obviously not worth it.


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## Prof.

Pricing can't be discussed here..PM Mark for details..


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## tgregory73

Hey guys,

Sorry I have been out of touch since my post....We are making a lot of changes at work that had me working all last weekend and very long days this week. Once the dust settles around these servers I will start posting my progress. 

I have a few ideas about my case but before I start actually putting anything together I thought I would set them up in front of my PJ to get a feel for where they should sit. I see what Mark is talking about on being VERY precise. This case will have to be very carefully crafted (laser cut plastic might be ideal) or designed or at minimum it will need to have a least 3 fine tuning adjustments to get the lens setup correctly.

This weekend is set to be gorgeous (weather wise) and I hope to get out in the garage open the door and see what I can come up with.


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## Mark Techer

Laser cut plastic is probably the most affordable and accurate method to make the lens holders. 

Given the rear lens is some 19mm think, my new DIY case will be made from 2 layers of 10mm (bonded) with a cutout of 80mm in each, and have a 2mm plates front and black (back plate will be bonded, front plate will be screwed down) with a cutout of 76mm. I'll also use the same 76/2mm O Rings that I use in the MK4. This way the lens can't move and is sealed once installed and aligned. 

I've been working on this new case for 4 days now and I am still finding things I need to change. Lucky I find it fun to do this stuff.


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## Mark Techer

Ok after about 2 weeks of painstakingly drawing and redrawing this new "DIY lens" case, I finally am ready to take the design to a fabricator to make the prototype. This will probably take another 10~14 days. The reason for this post is simply to let you guys know I am all over this.


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## Prof.

That's good to hear Mark..Very interested to see how it turns out..


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## Mark Techer

Yeah me too. Design is now at the laser cutters.


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## tgregory73

Sweet Mark!! Keep me posted......I have been swamped at work...the new building is nearing completion so all of the projects I have been working on are about to be installed...((Video Wall (Qty12 55" screens) access control, distributed audio, audio for Basketball court, gym,fitness room.....)) As fun as it sounds to be able to spend money that is not yours to get some really nice equipment....It can still be stressful!

Let me know when you get that case back from the cutting shop.


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## Mark Techer

tgregory73 said:


> Let me know when you get that case back from the cutting shop.


Will do


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## Prof.

Mark..With the case for the Mk. 4 lens.. is it just the spacing and vertical alignment of the lens elements that's critical, or are there other aspects to consider?


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## Mark Techer

Prof. said:


> Mark..With the case for the Mk. 4 lens.. is it just the spacing and vertical alignment of the lens elements that's critical, or are there other aspects to consider?


Spacing between the lenses as well as alignment of the two lenses. They must be perfectly aligned to each other on all three axis. An issue I identified with batch 1 was that the front lens had a very small degree of movement (part was 0.25mm undersized) that allowed the front lens to yaw. This was enough to prevent the lens from focusing corner to corner. That was fixed in batch 2. 

So I have to make sure I don't allow movement in the wrong directions for this project.


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## Prof.

Wow!..only .25mm. out and it wouldn't focus..I see what you mean about it having to be spot on!


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## Mark Techer

Prof. said:


> Wow!..only .25mm. out and it wouldn't focus..I see what you mean about it having to be spot on!


As an example of how precise these lenses are, the difference between being able to see inter pixel gaps and not on a 1080P can be a difference of less than 1/8th of a turn of the cap screw on the front of the MK4. It runs on a standard M6 thread.


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## Prof.

This sort of precision is more like an SLR camera lens than an A lens!!
Obviously the multi element A lens is closer to a camera lens than the prism type A lenses..


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## Mark Techer

It is because it uses real lenses. Prisms bend light and that is about the limit of the of the science there.


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## Mark Techer

UPDATE: The parts for the new case should be ready on Monday.


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## Prof.

Good one :T


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## Mark Techer

Apparently they had an issue with their laser, so my job was put back (along with many others).


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## Mark Techer

OK I picked up the prototype today and assembled it. Yeah it is a work in progress. I need to go back to my CADs because there are holes that do not line up and a few holes are not on the parts they should be. Easily correctable, just time lost is annoying. All I can say is it is HUGE and looks so cool.


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## Prof.

So this DIY case is much bigger than the original Mk.4 case?


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## Mark Techer

Prof. said:


> So this DIY case is much bigger than the original Mk.4 case?


Yeah it is huge. It is even larger than the size of the original MK1 :rofl:


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## Prof.

Wow!..that's big!!..I hope it's not heavier than the Mk.1!.:bigsmile:


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## Mark Techer

I hope not either. MK1 and Mk2 were almost 10KG after being packed.


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## Mark Techer

So I put some glass in the prototype case last night and it weighs allot :flex:. I would say +5KG at least :T


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## Mark Techer

I updated the drawing tonight. Feedback?


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## Prof.

Are there any adjusters for the elements? The drawing doesn't seem to show any.. or is it that once they're in place, no further adjustment will be required?


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## Mark Techer

Prof. said:


> Are there any adjusters for the elements? The drawing doesn't seem to show any.. or is it that once they're in place, no further adjustment will be required?


I've drawn the lens in its fully extended position of what should be 150mm. The case is telescopic, so collapses to about 100mm. This gives you the extended throw range where the shorter the throw, the shorter the lens will be.


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## Mark Techer

Here is a quick snap of the prototype as it starts to take shape.


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## Prof.

Mark..What purpose does the smaller base plate under the main plate serve?
It seems like if the lens was inverted and suspended from the ceiling, it might be in the way of a sliding track system!


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## Mark Techer

It keeps the nuts and bolts from scratching my polished table


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## Doc

I have been following this forum for a long time. I have set up my theater recently - about six months or so. Although still some work (seating) is needed. I have been very interested in anamorphic lens. I have already created one using the small prisms marketed at SS. As most of you know, it works but not great for a perfectionist. I am interested in cylindrical lenses. 

Mark, you have done great work here. :clap::yourock: I would appreciate if you can pm me with information about how and where to get these cylindrical lenses. Thank you.


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## Mark Techer

Thank you Doc. As the rules state, I can not list prices here, so a PM has been sent. There is a reason I am doing this project the way I am. Simply put, I want to hear wow factor stories about how great the image is, not complaints about how hard this is to get aligned.


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## Mark Techer

I demonstrated the advantage of the new design of the MK5 last night to the owner on an MK4 by removing the front lens holder which allowed the front lens to slide in and out. I was able to show him how quick and easy the astigmatism adjustment will be with the new design compared to the current thread adjustment of the MK4. 

If your wondering why I am doing this, then research "eye retention" and you will quickly understand the method in this madness.


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## Mark Techer

I got the revised prototype back today and assembled it. It went together much easier than the first, but I think there is still some holes missing. I'll see if I can snap a photo and post it.


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## Mark Techer

Mark Techer said:


> I got the revised prototype back today and assembled it. It went together much easier than the first, but I think there is still some holes missing. I'll see if I can snap a photo and post it.


UPDATE: As this project unfolds, I am starting to think this might be out of the average DIY'ers realm. Tonight was my first attempt at "bonding" of the plastic parts for the out case and whilst so far it looks good, I won't know until tomorrow how well I have done. The main body is bolted together, so no gluing required there (yet). I will have to glue the outer case to the main body next. 

The glue is a solvent especially made for acrylic, so technically it should be one piece of plastic.​


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## Prof.

If it's only a matter of accurately gluing and or bolting bits together, I don't see that that would be too difficult for the average DIYer!


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## Mark Techer

Prof. said:


> If it's only a matter of accurately gluing and or bolting bits together, I don't see that that would be too difficult for the average DIYer!


So supply a tube of glue and let them go for it? I don't know. We will have to see how this all goes when all is said and done.


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## Mark Techer

There is way more to this than meets the eye. I've had the prototype MK5 assembled for 2 days now and today found myself dismantling it once again. The good news after today is: IT NOW WORKS :clap:


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## Prof.

That's good to hear Mark..:T
How is this now looking as a DIY kit!?


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## Mark Techer

Complex? 

I honestly don't know how this would go as a DIY kit Prof. I ended taking the case into a machine shop today to have the outer part of the case machined. The guy charged me 'mates rates' but not sure if he'd be keen to do that for others. The need for precision alignment is paramount. You can't gave close enough is good enough like you can have with prisms. There is simply no room for error here. Having said that, I realigned this late this afternoon and watched a quick sample of video and it is stellar. So maybe there will be a few that can do this. I just don't think this is for everyone though.


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## Prof.

If this is a modification to the original design, wouldn't you be doing this on all the MK.5's?..or are you just making the mod for each lens as you sell them?
Are they just made to order, or are you carrying stock?


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## Mark Techer

I'm just "ironing out the bugs" so to speak. One the glass is aligned (2nd hardest part after the case), the lens is super easy to set up with the projector. I watched a full length film last night and saw no issues that would prevent this from going to market as is. There are still a few more things that need to be done though. I guess the first issue to sort out is for TGregory out as he already bought the glass and needs a case ASAP. If anything, I'd be happy for him to have the case as it stands right now. Any further mods I do will be simply refinements to what is already a great little (haha at 200mm, it is not exactly 'little') product. 

At this stage I plan on making them as required. Turn around is about 3 weeks so not a big wait for someone wanting one.


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## SAY IT LOUD

How much will they be $$$$$$$$$$

Cheers


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## Mark Techer

GOLD COAST? Shame you didn't attend the GTG I ran at BIG PICTURE PEOPLE (Robina) on Saturday evening. You could have got to see the MK5 in action for yourself.


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## Mark Techer

Anyway, here is what the MK5 Prototype looks like now.


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## SAY IT LOUD

I didnt know about it


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## Mark Techer

I am running another in Brissie soon. It will be on the south side, most probably at Sunnybank Hi Fi. The last one was for DTV Forum members, so announced on that site only.


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## SAY IT LOUD

Hi Mark please Pm me with the venue date and time and i will see you there.


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## Mark Techer

There will be 2 in the next few weeks. One will be at Sunnybank HiFi (hopefully this month) and the other at Aussie HiFi (July). Dates and times are yet to be confirmed.

If the MODS are OK, I might start a threat on GTGs here unless there is a section for that else where.


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## Prof.

You can start a new thread in the Anamorphic Projection forum for the GTG..


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## Mark Techer

Thanks done


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## Mark Techer

OK back on topic. Today I spent the best half of the day with the industrial designer again to work out what I need to do to improve the design. It looks as if on Monday, we will be turning a massive thread on the case parts to allow it operate the same as an ISCO. This will be quite complex and I would say this project is no longer DIY, but I would like to continue to post about it here as this is still the prototype and not a commercial or production unit at this time.


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## brodaiga

do you plan on making these for sale?


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## Mark Techer

brodaiga said:


> do you plan on making these for sale?


This one is getting built for sure  








Exactly how much they cost me to make will set the final sell price. Originally this was to be a DIY kit. However as I proceeded with my own lens, many challenges that would prevent an end user from enjoying their lens became apparent to me. A serious re-think was in order and this project can no longer be DIY.


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## SAY IT LOUD

That looks shmick. I will want one for sure. I am not sure what projector to buy next any ideads? cheers well done Mark thats beautiful machining



Mark Techer said:


> This one is getting built for sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly how much they cost me to make will set the final sell price. Originally this was to be a DIY kit. However as I proceeded with my own lens, many challenges that would prevent an end user from enjoying their lens became apparent to me. A serious re-think was in order and this project can no longer be DIY.


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## Mark Techer

SAY IT LOUD said:


> That looks shmick. I will want one for sure. I am not sure what projector to buy next any ideads? cheers well done Mark thats beautiful machining


That's actually a render, not a real image. The machining will look good, but not as shiny as that as the plastic itself is not that shiny when machined. It all starts tomorrow after 9am and turning this idea into a reality. 

It depends on what technology (DLP, LCoS or LCD) you want, and if you want 3D at this time. I prefer DLP, yet AFAIK, there are no DLPs with 3D under 10K (maybe the 5K Sharp).


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## Mark Techer

UPDATE: The "tuning" ring is done as is the main case. All parts fit nice and snug. I am super impressed with the guys ability to make something this complex from ideas we discussed less than 2 weeks ago.

The photo below is of the astigmatism adjustment ring being turned on a lathe.


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## Prof.

What type of black finish are you planning on using for the alum. parts?


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## Mark Techer

Prof. said:


> What type of black finish are you planning on using for the alum. parts?


Anodized I would say. Powder coating is too course and may clog the threaded parts. The question now is, do I get these parts done in black or another colour. I am really liking the contrasting sliver on black, so might even look into white for the threaded collar.


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## Prof.

Ideally all the internal surfaces should be finished in chemical black, to eliminate all internal reflections..
Personally, I think having a contrasting white focus ring would distract from the overall finish..Silver..not so bad..


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## amaraptor

This MK5 looks better than prismasonic cylindrical AL.I want one for sure.:clap:
A greeting from Malaysia.


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## Mark Techer

Prof. said:


> Ideally all the internal surfaces should be finished in chemical black, to eliminate all internal reflections..
> Personally, I think having a contrasting white focus ring would distract from the overall finish..Silver..not so bad..


Black it is then  The industrial designer came up with an engraved number system for the front of the focus ring. It looks good, but because one adjusts this in the dark, not much use I think.


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## Prof.

Looks neat but like you say, not much point when you're using it in the dark..

I take it that once the lens is adjusted correctly, then no further adjustment is ever needed..In which case the numbers around the ring would only serve to show the correct position, should the lens ring be moved anytime.. 
A click stop adjustment would be more appropriate, but would obviously be more expensive..


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## Mark Techer

And if the lens was accidentally moved, I would simply run a test pattern and re-align it. The focus ring allows a very quick and easy adjustment and in the end, the on screen image is what you want and need to make alignment.

Did you notice something odd about the numbers?


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## Prof.

Yeah..The spacing is 20 between all except 100 -130!?


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## Mark Techer

Prof. said:


> Yeah..The spacing is 20 between all except 100 -130!?


Yeah there is that as well as something odd at the 0/360 point.


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## Prof.

I see what you mean...0 and 360 should be at the same point! :rofl2:
That's a bit of a worry who ever did that calculation!! :unbelievable:


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## Mark Techer

If I know this guy, he did it on purpose and he is probably waiting for me to say something. So anyway the idea is neat, but not practical in the dark. And no, glow in the dark numbers would work either.


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## tomheart

great article.get a lot knowledge.


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## Mark Techer

Thanks tomheart and welcome to the forum.


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## Mark Techer

UPDATE: I collected the parts for the stand today. The stand is made from 6mm alloy (which I will get anodized next week) with Stainless Steel tube legs. Very sexy if I may so. I am also fabricating a new clamp for the lens which is more robust than the original and will be a lower profile on the finished unit than the current design. It is all looking very good and I will update images soon.


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## Retiredgeek

Mark, I am a newbee to the DIY lens thread. I am now researching trying to decide on my final approach to a 2.35 screen/projection setup. In reading through this thread you mentioned anodizing some of your lens parts. I thought I would mention something that I observed years ago while doing Infrared studies. If you use a typical anodizing process you will find that anodized aluminum becomes a perfect mirror, the closer you get to infrared. Reds in the still visible range are reflected but to a lesser degree. If you want a flat black anodized like surface I recommend you use CHEMGLAZE Z306. This is the only product recommended for optics in space applications. I'm sure it works the same here on the ground.


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## Mark Techer

Retiredgeek said:


> If you want a flat black anodized like surface I recommend you use CHEMGLAZE Z306. This is the only product recommended for optics in space applications. I'm sure it works the same here on the ground.


Thank you for the heads up. I could only use it if it didn't push the production price out to the stratosphere.


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## Mark Techer

Retiredgeek said:


> . In reading through this thread you mentioned anodizing some of your lens parts.


The parts that will be anodized are external like the stand clamp and focus ring, so will not affect light performance through the lens.


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## tgregory73

After having been MIA for awhile I am back to report what most everyone following this thread can probably guess. I am not making any "REAL" progress with the DIY case. I have worked on it off and on for several weeks and was beginning to doubt my skill :help: when I took the time to catch up on the thread and see that Mark was running into the same issues I was facing. Of course he found solutions to his issues and I gave up......but that sounds really bad so let's say "I have too much going on at work and didn't have the time to resolve the issues I was running into." :bigsmile: "There...that makes me feel a bit better"

I have decided to put my focus back on theater construction and just hope this MK5 case ends up in an affordable price range. "Mark, PM me once you know approximately what this case will run" I have these 2 gorgeous lenses here and nothing to put them in :sad2:


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## Mark Techer

An Email shall be sent ASAP Tim.


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## BOBBY1029

Im looking for a step by step way to make an anamorphic lens


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## Prof.

Firstly..welcome to the forum..

This link will give you the information you require to make a prism based anamorphic lens..
http://www.zuggsoft.com/theater/prism.htm

The main requirement is to get the best quality prism's you can find and of the size mentioned..


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## Prof.

You're welcome..

There's not so much interest these days in making an anamorphic lens..particularly since the advent of memory zoom that's now available on many projectors..
Are you planning on making a lens?


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