# Component Rack Advice



## Tommy

Hi all:

I'm running a full project blog type thread at http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=12 but though I'd ask a component type specific question over here.

I'm currently framming the walls for my dedicated HT room and would like to do some type of recessed in-the-wall type rack.

The shelving systems I've seen are very expensive, I just ordered the mid atlantic slim 5 rack but I still dont think thats what I want.

I'd like some type of in-wall cabinet about 3' in height and 3-4 shelves with maybe some glass or regular doors on it thats not thousand of dollars.

Any clues or ads of anything like this? I know there must be something like this for sale but I'm not having any luck web surfing for it.

Also if I do get something with a full door or that hides the components what needs to be done in order for the remotes to work?


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## Sonnie

Are you a handyman of sorts... you might could build your own or have someone do it for you. I'll see if I can get Rodny to post some pics of his cabinets he built. Actually I have his images hosted and here are a few...


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## Tommy

Couple of questions

No matter what it looks like I need to build the enclosure, should I build the shelves and send the rack back or put the rack into the enclsure?

2nd what to do about the back wall of it, it seems pointless to go through so much trouble of soundproofing when the back of the rack wall is open?

3rd question does it matter where the rack is in the room? I would like to put it on the wall next to the screen but I will only have about 20" depth behind that wall. On the other hand if I put it on the back wall it will go into a closeted space that I can enter but how difficult does that make wiring things in the future specially if video connections may need to go directly to the tv?


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## Sonnie

As far as whether or not to put the rack into the enclosure, I don't really know. I suppose that's gonna depend on your skills and ability to construct an idea of how to do it. I'd simply put adjustable shelves in there with pegs on the sides and drill plenty of extra holes for future upgrades with possibly size differences. I'm not sure what it's called but I have the metal strips on each side of my shelf (2 on each side) that metal clips snap into.

To do an inwall, I'd say you need access to the back side, otherwise you are gonna play havoc with wiring. Rodny has access to his through his attic. Then you could put a door on it and keep it shut to help with sound proofing. Maybe install some sort of small fan for ventilation. I just don't see how it would work without some way of accessing it from the rear, unless you get one of those sho-nuff fancy rack systems that slide in and out of the wall, but they ain't cheap.

With location, think about how far are you gonna have to run wires and think about your remote working properly. I believe those are the two major considerations with location. 

Someone else may have some ideas to help you here.


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## Jeff Aguilar

Erik Farstad built his rack next to his screen in his home theater. I am sure he will chime in. He put in some really heavy duty slide out shelves to be able to access his shelves. It turned out really cool. He has access to his equipment through the room behind his theater. 

Another thing you could do, is build an equipment rack in the closet behind your theater and put in the infared sensors to your equipment. That way all of your equipment and movies can be in an adjacent room. I did this in my last house. I just put a sensor next to the screen. My wife really liked the fact that none of the wires or equipment was visible in the tv room. 

Jeff Aguilar


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## Tommy

Hey thanks, I'll look more into the infrared suggestion. In my blogging thread for the project on this site, I showed last night where I put the riser in. 

The corner in the back of the room where I was thinking of putting the rack recessed into and accessible to a closet in the other room, I dont think is such a good idea anymore. Mainly because of the low ceiling/soffit there. 

It wouldnt be to bad, but to get to that corner but I would have to duck in order to access the front of the rack. Right now because of the soffit & the riser, the height is a little less the 6' and I still have to add the plywood to the riser, padding, carpet and drywall for the ceiling. So after its finished that corner even smaller.

I'm back to either putting it on the front wall or side wall (with max depth of 20") or as you suggested a completly differe room. My worry with putting it on the front wall on the side of the screen (besides seeing it) is I also have the in-wall speakers to put on the side of the screen.

Sonnie can you give me a rough estimate on the sizes of that cabinet you posted and also the material that its made of?


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## Sonnie

I'll see if I can get Rodny to chime in and give you the measurements.

EDIT: I did speak with Rodny and he stated he would get those measurements and post them tonight once he gets home.


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## Rodny Alvarez

Hello!!

The wood is 1/2 inch MDF, the cabinet is 18" W, 20" D and 42" H, this is inside measurements, The shelves are 18" D, this way you have 2" in the back for all the wiring.
The back has a door for easy access, I have a fan on the back is blowing the hot air out. 
The whole thing is put together with wood glue and screws.


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## Guest

I would say just build your own rack...all you would really need is a few pieces of metal and a drill press. At least that way it won't be too much or too little rack for your equipment.

CUSTOM ALL THE WAY!!!


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## lcaillo

Whatever you do you need to have plenty of space and easy access to the back for wiring. 2" would be very little space. Having installed and serviced hundreds of systems, I can say with certainty that more problems are caused by poorly designed cabinets with lousy access for wiring than component failures themselves, at least when talking about decent quality products.

We work with interior designers, architects, and custom cabinet people all the time and they create real problems by limiting access and space behind the equipment.


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## reed.hannebaum

I agree that you need plenty of access room to the back of your equipment. This will make it easier to rout your wiring (keeping analog audio away from AC power wiring), allow for better heat disapation, and you won't be cursing yourself when you do some future upgrade and have to access all these wires and cables. Its also a good idea to put wire markers on all your wires and cables.


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