# in-wall center speaker won't fit between studs....



## aquafat11 (Oct 2, 2011)

Hi everyone! I'm brand new to posting on the forums, but have used these forums many times in the past. Thank you in advance for your help and my apologies of this question has already been answered...

So I have a Yamaha in wall speaker with a cut-out width of 22 5/8 inches. I intend to use it as my center speaker, mounted long-ways. My question is, if I'm supposed to cut out a hole that is that long, but the studs only measure 16 inches apart, how would I be able to mount this speaker in the wall? I assume it probably wouldn't be a good idea to cut out the space in the studs. Should I just return the speaker and get a smaller one?

Thank you!


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

Welcome aboard.

Cheers,
Bill.


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## tonyvdb (Sep 5, 2007)

do you know if the wall is structural? If not then cutting one of the studs wont hurt to make it fit. You can just brace the section you cut from above if your concerned.


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## SAC (Dec 3, 2009)

Issues of wall structural integrity aside...

Seldom do you want to take a speaker and simply rotate it 90 degrees and lay it on its side.

I know, I know, we see it all the tine, but unfortunately most are only aware of the aesthetics rather than the acoustical performance of the speakers.

Assuming the drivers are aligned vertically, the polar lobing that results from the shared passband will now, instead of being oriented horizontally - which can be avoided by sitting at a particular level, be oriented vertically creating regions that cannot be easily avoided.


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

SAC said:


> Issues of wall structural integrity aside...
> 
> Seldom do you want to take a speaker and simply rotate it 90 degrees and lay it on its side.
> 
> ...


Maybe it's OK if you are lying down on the couch. :bigsmile:


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## Guest (Oct 3, 2011)

Are you using a mid/tweet for your left and right? If they are sold in singles, I'd just get a single speaker.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

I think i would look into what Tony said and also consider Turners idea.:T


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## mjcmt (Aug 30, 2010)

Very easy solution to your problem.

Cut the opening exactly where you want it to the exact cutout recommendation, but add 3" more to the height cutout Yamaha says. Header off the top w/ a 2x4 and add a bottom 2x4 plate. extend the 2x4 top header and bottom plate to the next adjacent studs and secure. With the drywall you cut out, d/w over the top header and bottom plate, then tape and mud. Really it is quite easy.

If it is a load bearing wall you could use double 2x4s for the header, but the truth is you only cutting one stud so a single 2x4 header is still fine.

(Without going into to much detail, if you're really good and have a sawzall, cut the opening exact as Yamaha recommends and do plunge cuts thru the drywall to accommodate the header and plate so you have less d/w patching.)


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