# Simpson Theater



## simpsonb4 (Dec 27, 2013)

I'm starting this thread to see if the location I have available to me would suffice and be worth the effort to turn into a HT. It's a basement bedroom location (13'-6" x 15'-6") at the outside corner of my home with two outside walls and three windows (less that 7sq.ft each). 8'-6" from concrete floor to bottom of joist. It is a full walkout on both sides of the room. It sits directly below the master bedroom and shares a cold air return with it.

Goals:
- Use as a dedicated HTR with 106" screen and 4 seats
- Prevent as much sound from escaping the room so as not to disturb others.

I attached an illustration. I plan on using:

*Ceiling* (exposed joist currently):
Double R13 batts in the joists with whisper clips, hat channel 5/8" DD/GG. 

*Wall's:*
Currently have 1/2 "DW, add 5/8" DW and green glue over the 1/2". Use sound isolation caulk on all wall/floor seams/ and electrical boxes.

*Floor:*
Carpet over concrete, no soundproofing

*Door:*
Replace with solid core and door sealing products.

May add some sound dampening panels in the room depending on sound reflections.

*Concerns:*

*1. Wall framing not decoupled from ceiling joists *- The existing walls (2 interior and 2 exterior) are not decoupled from the ceiling joists above as they are load baring walls. Will DD/GG be effective in stopping sounds from traveling up the wall cavity to the room above? Both exterior walls have a window in them so I have to extend the extension jambs which is no big deal sine I'm trimming out the hole room anyway.

*2. Windows* - they are double pane insulated but the exterior walls have 1.5" extruded foam to which they are nailed to (maybe this decouples them?). Will these be an issue to transferring sound through the wall cavity to the room above? The home has cement board siding which really dampens outside noise. I plan on using some sort of blackout window treatment for light and maybe to prevent high frequency reflection, thoughts?

*3. Cold air return* - not sure what can be done with that since I need a return vent in the room. I don't care about hearing the air flow, just not to use it as an amplifier to the room above and be the weak link. Maybe a baffle in the wall to help dampen.



Any advice on the approach and if this room is worth the investment? I'm not looking for the ultimate HT, just a place that I can be proud to invest in and enjoy. 

This forum is great, thanks in advance!


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## Horrorfan33 (Jun 11, 2013)

That's a great space for a home theater!!..You won't have to spend a gazillion dollars to get awesome sound in there either!!..I'm sure you will get tons of advice on the soundproofing from the experts on here, but I don't think you will have any problems with sound leakage/sharing..Acoustic panels and insulation are going to be your best friend!! 
Good luck and be sure to keep us updated on your progress!!


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

I don't know how accessible your cold air return is. However, if you can, then I would suggest adding a baffle to it.
All in all it is a decent space and should work well for you.


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## bamabum (Dec 7, 2012)

Subscribed..this is a great space. Definitely worth the investment! Can you swing the door outward to prevent impeding the space while you are already doing construction? With that size screen you could easily come off the back wall 2 ft with the couch to have better sound. What kind of seats will it be? Theater or a couch? The make space saving seats. I have 4 across at a total of 10 ft in width.


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## simpsonb4 (Dec 27, 2013)

Thanks, I'm excited about it. I know I will not get it to be perfect but just striving for the best it can be within reason and no glaring sound issues. 

Forgot to mention that I'm a very experienced builder with many years experience in many disciplines, this is just not one of them (soundproofing). I have a custom woodworking shop on my property and can build pretty much anything out of anything. I'm envisioning a modern theater with simple lines and finishes. I'll document the process when I get started, hopefully in the next 2-3 months.


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## Tonto (Jun 30, 2007)

Welcome aboard simpsonb4, glad you considered us for you pre-build planning phase. 

1st suggestion: 
Since your going to replace that entry door with a solid core one. Go ahead & change its orientation to open out. You'll need a riser for the rear seating. A door that opens in will cause a lot more work on the riser.


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## simpsonb4 (Dec 27, 2013)

bamabum said:


> Subscribed..this is a great space. Definitely worth the investment! Can you swing the door outward to prevent impeding the space while you are already doing construction? With that size screen you could easily come off the back wall 2 ft with the couch to have better sound. What kind of seats will it be? Theater or a couch? The make space saving seats. I have 4 across at a total of 10 ft in width.


I was thinking of swinging the door out too since I'm replacing it, shouldn't look too odd I don't think. I was envisioning theater seats, 4 across with the two in the center being a love seat. That way I can sit dead center when the wife doesn't want to watch with me. I have enough width for a standard set of around 144". Only wish I could find a place that sells them so I can test them out. I'm in Grand Rapids, MI. Haven't looked to hard though.


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## simpsonb4 (Dec 27, 2013)

Tonto said:


> Welcome aboard simpsonb4, glad you considered us for you pre-build planning phase.
> 
> 1st suggestion:
> Since your going to replace that entry door with a solid core one. Go ahead & change its orientation to open out. You'll need a riser for the rear seating. A door that opens in will cause a lot more work on the riser.


Good suggestion, thanks. I was thinking I could only get one row of seats with the short distance from the screen so I wasn't thinking of putting in a riser anywhere. (honestly haven't gotten that far in my planning yet, didn't want to get to excited if the room wouldn't work well).


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## Mike Edwards (Mar 10, 2011)

this is easily doable. you have a much better space available than most people have and this can make an excellent HT room


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## simpsonb4 (Dec 27, 2013)

Thanks, here is a slightly updated drawing


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## simpsonb4 (Dec 27, 2013)

robbo266317 said:


> I don't know how accessible your cold air return is. However, if you can, then I would suggest adding a baffle to it.
> All in all it is a decent space and should work well for you.


I have access from one side and limited on the other side. Not sure what a baffle for a cold air return looks like so I'm not sure what access I need to install it. Are there any pictures of them?


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## simpsonb4 (Dec 27, 2013)

Soundproofing - giving this more thought, can I leave the outside walls and just DD and GG on the inside walls?


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

Here is an example of a simple baffle. (from http://community.homedepot.com/t5/Install-Replace/Sound-absorption-with-a-vent/td-p/29871 )


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## Tonto (Jun 30, 2007)

You can still do a riser with one row of seating. It will help with acoustics. Do a little research on it & if you want one we can help you with the design. I recomment it.


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## simpsonb4 (Dec 27, 2013)

robbo266317 said:


> Here is an example of a simple baffle. (from http://community.homedepot.com/t5/Install-Replace/Sound-absorption-with-a-vent/td-p/29871 )
> View attachment 45616


Thanks for the picture. So I can build a baffle and slid it into the duct and fasten it, probably with sound sealer. Seems simple enough.


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## simpsonb4 (Dec 27, 2013)

Tonto said:


> You can still do a riser with one row of seating. It will help with acoustics. Do a little research on it & if you want one we can help you with the design. I recomment it.


Interesting, I never thought that would help but if so then I'm interested in learning more. I'll come up with a more exact dimensional drawing of the room and maybe I can get help with the design. I really appreciate everyone's good advice. I'll be reading more of the posts to learn what I can. Is there a standard height? Ceilings will be 8'-4". And I might build a soffit around the room to add some lights and such.


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## Tonto (Jun 30, 2007)

There is no standard height with just one row...more than that & there are calculators that help figure it out for you. So asthetics will be your concern. To get bass control with the riser, the front will have to have openings in it as well as the top, rear--right at the end (each cavity). You will stuff the internal sections with fluffy insulation. If you build a stage, I'd say twice the stage height would be a good starting point.


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## simpsonb4 (Dec 27, 2013)

Thanks everyone for your great comments! I've been doing some reading here and am learning a lot.

Can anyone comment on my approach to soundproofing to room? I may switch up to 5/8" drywall instead of 1/2" and add additional insulation in the ceiling joists (UltraTouch R13 already purchased + Pink R13 since I already have some that left over from another job) but does the rest of the plan seem sound? (pun intended). I wanted to avoid DD and GG on the ceiling if possible.

Also, all 4 walls of the room are attached to the ceiling/floor joists above, they are not decoupled. 3 are support walls and one is "partially" supportive. Am I wasting my money with putting DD/GG on those walls? I can't afford the space that clips and channel would take up on at least 2 of the walls.

Any suggestions? Has anyone else done a room like this with non-decoupled walls and had good results with insulation/DD/GG and no clips?


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## B- one (Jan 13, 2013)

simpsonb4 said:


> I was thinking of swinging the door out too since I'm replacing it, shouldn't look too odd I don't think. I was envisioning theater seats, 4 across with the two in the center being a love seat. That way I can sit dead center when the wife doesn't want to watch with me. I have enough width for a standard set of around 144". Only wish I could find a place that sells them so I can test them out. I'm in Grand Rapids, MI. Haven't looked to hard though.


American Seating might be a good place to look. Not sure they do small orders but may have something laying around that could work. Watson's has a few online not sure about in store they are more home style then true theater seats.


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## mpednault (Dec 20, 2012)

Not sure if you made mention of what you have for speakers but you'll want the front LCR tweeters at or as close to ear level as you can get so that may play into the height of your seating/riser.


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