# KevinBCCAN Basement HT



## KevinBCCAN (Dec 5, 2013)

Introduction message to my new build.
I just finished building a suite in our basement and have the remaining area to work with. 
The "Dungeon" room is ideal for a HT so here we go.
Room size is 20' long x 11' & 12' wide (bay shape area) X 7'11" high. 
Concrete walls floor to ceiling on two sides. Isolated walls framed in front of the concrete walls, 1/2" space to concrete and 1/2" space to floor joists above. Concrete has 6mil poly covering for any moisture.
End wall behind seating is an isolated wall in front of existing 2x4 stud wall with 1/2" drywall both sides with safe & sound insulation.
Third long wall is 2x6 supporting wall with doorway. plan to use wisper clips and hat channel on this wall.
Ceiling will have whisper clips and hat channel.
I have been on the Soundcompany website and will be doing most of what they recommend with 2x5/8 dw and GG etc.
I am now at wiring stage and planning locations for everything and my wiring methods/requirements conduit etc. Also determining HVAC, dead vent or ??? requirements. Room has a supply and return in it now.
my receiver,amps,dvd,cable box etc will be in a well ventilated under stair closet immediately outside the HT door.
Equipment plans so far are for a Panasonic PTAE8000 projector and Yamaha AVENTAGE 7.2 receiver. rest to be determined. Not sure of ceiling mount or rear wall mount for the projector. Screen size in the 100"sq range on a 11'w X 7'8"h wal 
Seating for 6 or 7, raised platform for rear seats, approx 8".
Lighting is to be determined also, which is how I came to the forum, looking for ideas befor I wired and had to re-wire.
I am sure lots is left out, and others with chime in with what I am missing or have not yet considered, but at least you have a bit of an idea of my starting point.
This first post will help me learn the posting protocols also.

Kevin
Pictures to come.


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## KevinBCCAN (Dec 5, 2013)

Sketch up is a bit more of a challenge than I thought. Squares, rectangles etc no problems with 90 degree corners, but the bay window area with 31 degree angles is another story. 2D drawing is ready to post and some pics.


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## KevinBCCAN (Dec 5, 2013)

Here is a 2D drawing of the HT. Also three pictures
I will work on the 3D version


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## hjones4841 (Jan 21, 2009)

Your room will be about the same size as mine. You will find that bass traps and as many of them as you can fit in will make the room sound much better. I ended up with 5 GIK Monster Traps in mine and they made a huge difference in bass transient response - kick drum, action movie explosions, etc. are more defined, no ringing.

Check out the REW section here for suggestions of how to measure your room when you get it finished.

With all the gear I have in my room, seating for 6 is out. Three on one row is about it, across the 12 foot width. But, I did not build risers and really had no reason to go for more than 3 seats anyway.


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## KevinBCCAN (Dec 5, 2013)

Thanks, acoustics and correction are new territory for me so I appreciate the suggestions. Would you know if the bay knock out in the seating area helps or hinders the acoustics, and if so what to do about it?


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## KevinBCCAN (Dec 5, 2013)

I have developed my wiring plan and am looking for input for what I am missing.
Other threads have provided insight into the importance of "future proofing", so I have tried to keep that in mind.
Plan:
1. Equipment will all be in a large closet immediately outside the HT entrance door. The closet is well ventilated and this will keep the heat out of the HT. All runs therefore go back to this closet.
2. Plan is for a 7.2 system
3. All speaker locations will terminate in standard electrical boxes, with backer boxes on the back of the OSB first wall layer. I intend to use cable wall plates and not have banana plugs on the wall plates. The wires will connect direct to the speakers. This is from the less connections less potential problems school of thought.
4. using 14AWG 2 pair speaker wire in all locations. Is this overkill? I am thinking that 2 pair just gives me 2 extra wires for future use just in case. I have no plans or ideas for this use at this point.
5. Front L,C,R boxes 24" from the floor
6. Side surrounds 14' from the screen wall & 72" from floor. This should put them just behind the front seat row.
7. Rear effect speakers 60" apart and centred on the back wall
8. I think 2 subs is plenty, but was going to put possible connections at each of the 4 corners. 12" from the floor. Subs would be located in opposite corners. I see others have located their subs centered on the front and back wall in a 2 sub set up. Should I just plan on 2 sub location centered on the front and back wall or stick with the 4 possible locations? Which is better centered or in corners?
9. Running coax to the sub locations and also a 14AWG 2 pair. Do I need the 14 AWG?
10. Not planning on using conduit for the speaker or sub locations.
11. 2 20amp circuits for the subs. on circuit for front and 1 for back.
12. 14AWG 2 pair and a 15amp plug on the front of the riser for the front seats and the same in the riser floor for the back seats. Future use only.
13. Conduit run to the projector. For HDMI cable and to allow for future changes. 110V 15 amp at projector location. Is there any need for this to be a separate circuit?
Not sure yet whether to mount the projector in the rear soffit, like in ALMS HT or hang from ceiling. 
Panasonic PTAE8000 projector. Any recommendations on which is the best location. Joe Alms, why did you pick the rear soffit location and are you happy with it? 
14. Conduit run to centre of front wall behind the screen. For possible future HDMI for a flat screen TV. 110V power to this location also.
15. All wiring for pot lights and low voltage LED's will be in the soffit. Using existing 15amp lighting circuit in the room.
16. 2 x 20 amp circuits in equipment closet.
17. All connections in the equipment closet will be direct to the receiver, amp etc. Not planning on a termination point and then patch cables between equipment and other plugs.

This is my first HT. Even though I am considering the future proofing I don't really see making many future changes. Just want to do a good job the first time and enjoy, but just in case....
I appreciate any and all comments.
Kevin


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## bamabum (Dec 7, 2012)

some more random items to consider.

If you intend on powered seating or kicker boxes run power to behind the chairs. This has also been helpful to have a cell phone charger cord at the seat vs stretched from the wall.

If you intend on a main remote control from the closet, run something like cat 5 to the projector to repeat IR. 

I ran an extra HDMI to the front wall back to the receiver in the closet. It is very helpful for transient items that are not in the closet. My son brings in his xbox from the man cave from time to time. Also my daughters wii is in the room so she doesn't have to go to the closet.

Power sockets for the subs is something to consider. IF the amps are at the subs and not in the closet you may need these on own circuit vs with the regular outlets in the room.

Power plugs for lighting affects if you do them. LED ropes (transformer based) in the ceiling tray or a star ceiling.


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## KevinBCCAN (Dec 5, 2013)

Thanks Bama,
I read through your build and like what I see. Lots of good ideas to consider.
Power for the chairs is a great idea and I did plan on that one.
HDMI connection for games consoles etc I had not thought of but this is important for us.
OK for the Cat5. Do I need this anywhere else?
Regarding the Subs, I did plan on two circuits for this, one front and one back, but don't understand the amp in the closet. The simple HT in a box system I have now you just plug into the was and connect to the receiver. I thought I would just be buying better quality subs but the connection would be the same?
I will read through some of the other forum topics on equipment so I understand better.

I note you are a CPA; I am a CPA, CGA in Canada


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## bamabum (Dec 7, 2012)

The cat 5 is nice to have anywhere you expect IR repeaters for remote stations that are in the closet. Such as automated curtain (s), projector, led lights on IR, fireplace, etc.

One other one is a power stub out for a fan for the hush box if you intend on building one for the projector.

On the subs, sry for confusion. I have seen the amps not in the sub box but in the closet. and speaker wires ran to an unamped sub box in the room. You are probably using coax / LFE cable for the HT in a box sub unless it is a wireless sub. Either way your correct. 

I am certified but not in accounting. That was just during my rant. 

Look forward to seeing more of your build!


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## KevinBCCAN (Dec 5, 2013)

OK, maybe I'm putting too many questions in one post.
I want to pick up speaker and coax wire so I can get to this wiring during my Christmas break.
Should I use two wire speaker wire to each location or is there a reason to use 4 wire?
And should I also run speaker wire as well as coax to the sub locations?
Thanks


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## bamabum (Dec 7, 2012)

Here how I see it, but maybe someone will correct me.

Also see...
simple article on the subject


What I am trying to explain is that the required wiring is based upon powered subs or non powered subs and where the amp for the sub is located. Powered (Version C) is what most people here use as it decreases the load from the main receiver and you can increase amps/output dedicated to it.

Version A (non-powered sub, main receiver is the amp)
in a non powered sub you run the subs power from your main receiver amp. the sub is just a box with a speaker in it. the amp processes what to send to the sub and sends it via speaker wires to the sub box. This kind of sub does not plug into the wall since it is just a speaker in a box. In this case you would run speaker wire to the room.

Version B (non-powered sub, dedicated sub amp in closet)
This is the same as A except you buy a dedicated amp for the sub. LFE cable goes from reciever SW out or LFE into sub amp. speaker wire connects to sub box in the room. In this case you would run speaker wire to the room.

Version C (powered sub)
The sub has a built in amplifier in the sub box. It will have a LFE connector usually. This is nice because it takes the load off main receiver and usually has a local volume/eq knob. In this case you run 75 O RCA cable or a coax and terminate with F-types. You also need a local wall socket to power the sub.

Version D (powered sub, wireless)
typical in big box stores all in one theater. sub is powered but gets data over the air vs through a LFE / RCA cable. you just need a power socket.

Check the back of your amp for Preouts or SW out or LFE to ensure you can use a powered sub.


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## KevinBCCAN (Dec 5, 2013)

Thanks, Version C is how I understand it and what I plan on using.


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## KevinBCCAN (Dec 5, 2013)

Can anyone suggest a thread that discusses lighting? Placement, screen lighting, controls etc
Thanks


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## jbrown15 (Dec 7, 2011)

Hi Kevin, nice to see a fellow BC'er on the forums. Where about are you located?


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## KevinBCCAN (Dec 5, 2013)

Maple Ridge, and you?


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## jbrown15 (Dec 7, 2011)

KevinBCCAN said:


> Maple Ridge, and you?


Just across the Golden Ears bridge in Cloverdale.


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## jbrown15 (Dec 7, 2011)

You're more then welcome to come over and check out my theatre room over the holidays and get some ideas for your build. After building my room I can honestly say that there's a few things I would of done differently after looking back on things.

Have you picked out speakers and a sub or subs yet?


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