# Soundblaster X-Fi



## AustinJerry

I'm just getting started with REW, and I can't get past the soundcard calibration step. Has anyone posted a setup guide for the Soundblaster X-Fi USB soundcard? Strangely enough, when I search the threads for "X-Fi", I get zero hits, even though I see a recent post that references this soundcard. (What is up with the forum indexing?).

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jerry


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

> Has anyone posted a setup guide for the Soundblaster X-Fi USB soundcard?


 Sorry, no. There are just too many sound cards out there for us to have a guide for each one. If you're successful, maybe you can do a write-up. 

Exactly where in the calibration process are you running aground?

Regards,
Wayne


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## AustinJerry

I cannot adjust the input volume to within 3 db of the output with less than 1 db peak level. Whenever I get close and try to measure, I get a warning that clipping was detected. Small changes in the input volume produce wild swings in the REW input measurement. The same input volume rarely produces the same measurement in REW. It seem like there is a setting somewhere that is interfering with the measurement process.

I used the SB Live 24 setup as a guideline, but a number of the settings for that card are not visible in the X-Fi control panel. 

I am at a loss.


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

For starters, if there is a monitor setting, turn that off.

If that doesn't get it, can you post a screen shot of the Sound card tab of your Settings window? 

Regards,
Wayne


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## JohnM

Search does seem a bit messed up, we'll see if we can get that sorted.

Here is a thread from HTS that mentions the X-Fi, http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/rew-forum/26174-creative-x-fi-5-1-calibrating-problem.html, main issue there seemed to be getting monitoring turned off. If you go to the post padding thread in the testing forum and notch up a few more posts you can post screen shots and we can figure out what needs changing.


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## JohnM

Also check for this: "Check to see if Playback line-in is unmuted in the Windows mixer. The line-in should only be enabled in the Record Mixer - not Playback..... (if it's Vista, its the Playback and Record Devices menus)."


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## Elliott Studio

I use this soundcard with REW and have the same problem. I just ignore the warning and do the sweep to see where it puts me level-wise, then adjust accordingly. It's a bit goofy.

There is also a bunch of DSP effects that you need to go into the Creative software to turn off or you will get really crazy readings. These affect the playback side of the equation.

I'm going to check to see if the 'monitor' function is set wrong next time I try to use it.


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Elliott Studio said:


> I use this soundcard with REW and have the same problem. I just ignore the warning and do the sweep to see where it puts me level-wise, then adjust accordingly. It's a bit goofy.


He hasn't made it to the measurement stage, he's still trying to get a soundcard calibration. Can you offer any tips on that?

Regards,
Wayne


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## AustinJerry

Thanks for the link, but unfortunately it is not specific enough about "Check to see if Playback line-in is unmuted in the Windows mixer". I use Windows 7, and am using the native Win7 drivers for this audio card (i.e. I did not load any of the Creative software that came with the card--I shouldn't have to).

I have attached screen shots. By right-clicking the speaker in the SysTray and choosing Playback Devices, I select the SB X-Fi default device. Clicking "Properties" and then the "Levels" tab produces the screen where I can adjust Speaker (Output) and Line In. On the "SoundBlaster" tab, I make sure all the enhancements are turned off.

In REW, you can see the settings, and I am now able to adjust the levels to achieve the input level within 3 db of the output, with peak less than 1 db as shown. I then make a measurement, make the calibration file, and then run a test. The resulting graph is attached, which clearly shows that I'm doing something wrong.

Perhaps these screen shots will allow you to provide some direction. Any help is greatly appreciated.


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## immortalgropher

You need to install those X-Fi drivers...and this is why:

 

They make things clearer and they sound much better than the stock windows drivers.


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## Elliott Studio

Yes, that's the results I got when all the soundblaster 'crystalizer' and stuff was turned on. I couldn't get anything to work with the X-Fi until the correct drivers were installed. And I thought it was because my computer is too old and slow and XP..

The ART Dual USB-Pre that I use for work doesn't have these issues. I guess the creative card is more picky.


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## JohnM

On the Speaker Properties -> Levels you must *mute* the Line In level, that level controls how much of the line in signal gets fed back out to the speakers, if it is not muted you have a feedback loop. Control the line in level from the Recording device properties.


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## AustinJerry

I tried both ways. I'm not sure how installing the Creative drives addresses the fact that the calibration file isn't producing the desired results, or where to turn off the monitoring function. I'm not against using the drivers--it's that I have yet to figure out how to get a successful calibration.


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## JohnM

Monitoring = line in not muted on Speaker properties Levels.


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## glaufman

JerryMeeker said:


> I tried both ways. I'm not sure how installing the Creative drives addresses the fact that the calibration file isn't producing the desired results, or where to turn off the monitoring function. I'm not against using the drivers--it's that I have yet to figure out how to get a successful calibration.


Until the correct drivers are installed, it'll be more difficult, if not impossible, to get the calibration file correct. The calibration file is created from data captured while emitting a tone and listening to what comes back. If the driver isn't working, the soundcard isn't working, and either the emitted tone or what's being listened to won't be right, therefore the calibration file can't be proper.


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## immortalgropher

JerryMeeker said:


> I tried both ways. I'm not sure how installing the Creative drives addresses the fact that the calibration file isn't producing the desired results, or where to turn off the monitoring function. I'm not against using the drivers--it's that I have yet to figure out how to get a successful calibration.


Because it gives you all the options you need to see .


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## AustinJerry

OK, I loaded the Creative drivers, and ran the web update to make sure the drivers are the latest versions. The line in is muted (which I understand translates to monitoring off). I generated a calibration file, and ran a measurement. the result is attached. Still doesn't look correct.


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## JohnM

That file is mostly noise, so more to do  You can save the graph image as a JPEG by clicking the little floppy disc icon in the bottom left corner of the graph (or using the entry in the Graph menu).

Typical causes of that would be:

- having REW set up to listen to the Right channel while having the wiring on the left or vice-versa (beware of 1/8" to phono breakout cables as sometimes they have left and right reversed)
- not having Line In selected as the input (check the settings in the Windows Recording tab)
- cable plugged into the wrong socket (done it myself...)
- faulty cable or adaptor

One thing you can check fairly easily is whether you are able to generate signals with REW, by hooking the line out up to your system and using the REW signal generator to play pink noise or a sine wave. If that works then can focus on the input side.


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Off hand I'd say you need to increase the input level when running the calibation file routine. When I've had the level too low it got me graphs like that. With my sound card I had to go a bit higher than the -12 and -6 dB FS range recommended to get a valid calibration.

Regards,
Wayne


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## AustinJerry

Thanks for everyone's patience. I think I have made some progress, but still need assistance in interpreting the results. Since my last post, I popped in a different hard drive into the laptop and installed a fresh copy of Windows XP, and then the Creative drivers. I have successfully generated a calibration file, but when I test it out, I get the attached graph. It looks better than what I had been geeting, but I still don't know what to make of it. Any advice?

View attachment 20718


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## Elliott Studio

that looks like a low pass filter somewhere in the equation - the blue solid line is the target, right? Is your target set for a woofer crossover? The dashed line looks like what you should be getting. 

One thing that I found out the hard way with that soundcard is that if you use the headphone jack to send the signal out the soundcard detects that you've plugged into the headphone jack and automatically turns on the effects processing, which makes things look like the first graph you posted.

 

Here's the calibration file for my Creative X-Fi. Hope this helps.


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

It's a valid calibration (dotted line). Load the file into REW and you're good to go. :T

Regards,
Wayne


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## JohnM

The result of the loopback calibration check is likely just off the top of the graph, going through the SPL calibration process would bring it back to a more typical number. As long as it is flat you can move on the SPL calibration and actual measurements.


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## AustinJerry

OK, thanks for everyone's input. I think I have it figured out now. Using the RS analog SPL with the SPL calibration file, and using the Soundblaster X-Fi sound card calibration file, I was able to generate the attached measurement using 20Hz to 200Hz, which (as I understand) is reasonably accurate using the Radio Shack SPL.

If I am interpreting the results correctly, I have a serious issue at approximately 45 Hz, which is exactly what I anticipated based on the dimensions of my listening room. The reason for learning how to use REW is to be able to measure the "before" subwoofer response in advance of installing an SVS AS-EQ1 sub equalizer for my newly purchased Hsu ULS-15 dual drive subs (it arrives on Tuesday!). I have experimented with numerous room placements for the subs, but still can't seem to get around the limits of the room itself. Based on what I have heard about the AS-EQ1, I should be able to improve on the response considerably, and am looking forward to the "after" measurement with REW. I'll post my results.

Once again, thanks for the help! Any other comments on the measurment results would be appreciated.


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## JohnM

Two other things you should do are click the button near the top right of the graph to swap the frequency axis from linear spacing to log spacing, then click the button to set the graph extents and use 45dB .. 105dB as the vertical range - we try and keep a consistent vertical scaling on plots so it is easier to visually compare different measurements. Was this a sub only measurement or were one or both of the mains active also? The notch around 45Hz might be a sub/mains phase issue if the crossover is fairly low, but it could also be due to a reflection from one of the walls. It is worth experimenting with positioning (of your self and/or the speakers/sub), a quick way to do that is to use the REW RTA plot with the signal generator producing the "Pink PN" signal, you then get live feedback of changes in position. Make sure the RTA window setting is "Rectangular" when using the Pink PN signal, you can get good results with little or no averaging.


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## AustinJerry

John and Wayne,

Thanks for the tips. I spent quite a bit of time over the weekend getting got know the capabilities of REW. It is a brilliant program, and is proving quite useful. The immediate benefit was to allow me to experiment with different placements for the two sub's prior to receiving and installing an AS-EQ1 tomorrow. Using the REW measurements, I was able to tame the 45 Hz null as shown in the "before" and "after" graphs below. Many thanks!


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## JohnM

Yikes, that was some dip! The final positioning looks very good though.


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## AustinJerry

After installing the AS-EQ1 bass equalizer. I think I am done for now. :sn:


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## JohnM

Low end looks great, but try flipping the sub phase to see if it helps the notch just above 100Hz (assuming there was a main speaker active during that measurement).


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## Kimwyn

This is an extremely useful thread as i am encountering the same problems. I want to use this thread to continue with the problems experienced using the SB X-Fi, if it is not a problem?


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## Kimwyn

this is ridiculous.....i cant get anything to work. I have been at my desk for 2 hrs trying to get just the soundcard calibration and up to now i have nothing.


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## Kimwyn

Can someone please help me??????? This is so frustrating.


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## co56

I´m also having problems with the calibrationof the soundcard.. It seems like the soundcard don´t register the sound comming to the input.. I hear ppl talk about the drivers but which driver is the one to choose ? I have an x-fi elite pro


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## JohnM

If you are on Windows then you need WDM drivers installed - if you see your soundcard listed (inputs and outputs) in the Windows control panel sound properties then it has WDM drivers. You will need to check the Sound recording tabs and properties to check which input is selected and what the levels are set to.


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## Kimwyn

See, everyone with this sound card has problems having it calibrated. I really don't understand this. Can anyone who has this sound card give us a thorough walk through on how to start using this card?


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## AustinJerry

OK, here are the steps I follow for a successful soundcard calibration (Soundblaster X-Fi, driver 1.1.99.0, Windows 7 32-bit):

1. Right-click the Speaker icon in the taskbar and open "Playback Devices".
2. Select "Speaker" (Soundblaster X-Fi), and click "Properties".
3. On the Levels tab, set speaker level to 100%, and mute "Line-in/Mic-In".
4. On the SoundBlaster tab, disable enhancements and click OK.
5. Select the Recording tab.
6. Select "Line-In/Mic-In", and click "Properties".
7. On the Listen tab, turn off "listen to this device".
8. On the custom tab, turn off boost.
9. On the Levels tab, select 35, and click OK.
10. Open REW 5.0.
11. Select "Preferences", and make sure the output device is Soundblaster X-Fi, Speaker, and the input device is Line-In/Mic-In (Soundblaster X-Fi), Microphone.
12. Set the cable on the soundcard to loop right output to Line-In.
13. Click Calibrate and follow the on-screen instructions.

The resulting calibration file should look like the attached screen shot.

Kimwyn, if you are still having difficulties, provide specific details.


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## stufine

I am using the Soundblaster X-fi card and I am getting this when I try to calibrate my card. It looks good up until I get the end. I followed the steps posted by JerryMeeker up until step 4. I didn't have any of those options. I guess this is because I am on Vista and he is on 7. Does this look good enough? If not what are some things I can do to fix it. 

I had the input channel set to Right and the plug into the right line out and the graph was red. I switched the input channel to left and left the plug in the right channel and the graph turned green like you see in the picture.

I have been reading the help files and I think I am close to doing it right. It uses a lot of terms I am still trying to figure out. i have one end of my cable plugged into the line in. Then I have the Red end of the same cable plugged into the Right line out. This is the correct way to calibrate it right?

I have also selected my Output Device and Output as Speaker (Sound Blaster X-Fi Surround) and the Input device and INput as Line-In/Mic-In (Sound Blaster X). I am using the Radio Shack Calibration file for the SPL meter I have. Everything else is default. 

Any help will be greatly appreciated. I have been messing with this for 4 days now and I can't get any further. Hopefully this calibration is ok.


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## JohnM

It is a little bit noisier than ideal at the highest frequencies, but still OK to make measurements. You could try changing the sample rate in REW's Soundcard preferences (if it is 44.1k try 48k, or vice versa) and see if that improves things, but even if it doesn't you can carry on.

Note that you can capture a screenshot of the graph by clicking the camera icon above the graph on the left.


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## stufine

Thanks for the advice. I switched the rate to 48k and now it looks like this. Also thanks for pointing out the camera. It saves lots of time LOL.


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## JohnM

Much better, ready to start measuring.


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## stufine

I did my first sub test. I calibrated the sound card and the spl meters. Everything seems ok. This is my screenshot of my first test. I am pretty sure that something is not right.

I have my radio shack spl meter plugged in to the line in jack with the red stereo cable going to the spl meter. I have a component cable with red and white ends going to the soundcard line out area.  The other end is going to my subwoofer amp in the input plugs. This is how I understood to connect it. Is this correct?


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## stufine

I forgot to load my mdat file before measuring. here is the new screenshot of the test.


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## tdo722

Jerry,

I cannot select ouput "SPEAKERS" like you pointed out. I can select the output device "Soundblaster X-Fi" but I cannot select anything underneath it "SPEAKERS"??? Please help.


from your steps:

11. Select "Preferences", and make sure the output device is Soundblaster X-Fi, Speaker, and the input device is Line-In/Mic-In (Soundblaster X-Fi), Microphone.

picture of what I'm seeing is here: http://flic.kr/p/9pYfmJ


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## Kimwyn

Have you gone into the actual soundcard folder and deselect all the effects? I had that problem before. Also, you need to load EVERYTHING from the CD not just the drivers. download everything from the CD and you should be fine from there. If not, let me know what else you get and i could help you.


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## AustinJerry

Not sure why "Speaker" is not showing as an option. However, since the SB X-Fi is configured as the Default Device, I don't see an issue.

A couple of other observations:

- Uncheck the "Control Input Volume" and use the Windows "line-In" properties to set the recording volume. I use a level of 35.

- Clean up the output screen by un-checking "Phase", "Mic-Meter Cal", and "Soundcard Cal". Then click on the Limits tool and set your upper and lower limits to a range like Left=20 and Right=200, and click "Apply Settings". 

- Apply "smoothing" (either 1/6 or 1/12) to smooth out the narrow-band frequency variations.

Now the graph should look more like this:


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## AustinJerry

BTW, I think you have mastered REW. Now, using this new capability, you should focus on experimenting with tweaks to your sub to see if you can achieve a flatter response (e.g. different placement, room treatments, sub equalizer, etc.). Looking forward to hearing back from you.


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## tdo722

Thank you Jerry and also Kimwyn.

Below is my first measurement. I'm using a pair of Martin Logan Spires with the built-in woofers. I'm planning to buy a pair of Rythmik F15.

Both spire woofers are set at default setting. I ran Audyssey MultEQ XT and took the measurement immediately after. I wonder if I need to buy the BFD to improve the response or keep relocating the speakers until I find the sweet spot.


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## stufine

Here is my latest measurement. It seems pretty good right??? I know its not flat but I can't really move the subs. They are in the only spot the wife likes. I have the EQ bandwidth and and Freq is at half. When I raised them to half each one raised the db level. Phase is set at 0 degrees.


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## AustinJerry

tdo722 said:


> Thank you Jerry and also Kimwyn.
> 
> Below is my first measurement. I'm using a pair of Martin Logan Spires with the built-in woofers. I'm planning to buy a pair of Rythmik F15.
> 
> Both spire woofers are set at default setting. I ran Audyssey MultEQ XT and took the measurement immediately after. I wonder if I need to buy the BFD to improve the response or keep relocating the speakers until I find the sweet spot.


Your response is actually quite good. A 5dB variance in the 20-200 Hz range is difficult to improve upon. The roll-off below 20 Hz shouldn't be a major concern--there really isn't that much out there with sub-20Hz content. I would not purchase an equalizer until after you get the subs and see how they affect overall bass response. 

I have no experience with the BFD, nor do I know what it costs. Others who have used bass equalizers have said that the SVS AS-EQ1 (or its equivalent, the Audyssey sub equalizer) does a better job. And, of course, there are the new AVR's (like the Denon 4311) which have the higher-resolution MultEQ XT32, which is equivalent to the AS-EQ1 for bass equalization.

So many choices, and so much fun making them! Good luck!


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## AustinJerry

stufine said:


> Here is my latest measurement. It seems pretty good right??? I know its not flat but I can't really move the subs. They are in the only spot the wife likes. I have the EQ bandwidth and and Freq is at half. When I raised them to half each one raised the db level. Phase is set at 0 degrees.


Stufine, something doesn't look right with your graph. I would normally expect to see the same graph, but centered around the 75 dB level (see my graph above). Perhaps you didn't properly calibrate the SPL? If your satellite speakers measure 75 dB, and the sub is 110 dB, that would be really hot bass.


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## stufine

JerryMeeker said:


> Stufine, something doesn't look right with your graph. I would normally expect to see the same graph, but centered around the 75 dB level (see my graph above). Perhaps you didn't properly calibrate the SPL? If your satellite speakers measure 75 dB, and the sub is 110 dB, that would be really hot bass.


I have my fronts set to 85 db and I run my subs at 90. I have an Onkyo 3007 and in the level calibration is where I set these. Should I run them at 75 db? I do like a lot of bass in my movies and in my music.


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## AustinJerry

stufine said:


> I have my fronts set to 85 db and I run my subs at 90. I have an Onkyo 3007 and in the level calibration is where I set these. Should I run them at 75 db? I do like a lot of bass in my movies and in my music.


According to the web site, the 3007 has Audyssey MultEQ XT. If you are running the Audyssey calibration properly, Audyssey will set the levels of the speakers to 75 dB reference. To test this, run the speaker level test tones *from the AVR *and measure the output using your SPL. All speakers should measure very close to 75 dB.

Assuming you pass this test, launch REW and open the SPL calibration tool. Set the SPL meter to the 80 dB range, (C-weighting, Slow of course). Start the sub test tone in the SPL calibration tool, and adjust the *AVR master volume* so that the reading on the actual SPL meter is at zero (which corresponds to 80 db), and enter 80 dB into the calibration tool. The SPL is now calibrated.

Now run your 20 Hz - 200 Hz sweep tests again, and the resulting sub levels should be somewhere in the 70-80 dB range, which means the sub volume is matched to the levels of your satellite speakers. You should not adjust speaker levels that have been determined by the Audyssey calibration--doing so means you would no longer be running at "reference" levels, which would defeat the purpose of calibrating.

Sorry for the lengthy response--it's important that we are on the same page. And, of course, these are my opinions, which I would enjoy discussing if you have different thoughts.


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## tdo722

I think stufine's graph looks good if he goes down to reference level.


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## stufine

I ran Audyssey and was not real satisfied with the results. Every time I ran it the setup would change. So I talked with the guys over at Chase where I bought my speakers. They suggested to set all of my speakers crossovers to 80hz and set up the speakers using my SPL. I came up with setting it to 85db by reading some things on these forums. 

I saw that most people said set it to 75db and a couple of others said 85db. I assumed that 85db is louder than 75db so that should be better. I will set everything down to 75db and see how that goes. Since I like a lot of bass can I still run my sub at 80db? Or will that screw everything up?

The other was that I had the Soundcard volume all the way up. I was also not hooked up to the Onkyo. I was hooked up to the sub amp. My Onkyo was not involved in the sub test.


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## AustinJerry

stufine said:


> I ran Audyssey and was not real satisfied with the results. Every time I ran it the setup would change. So I talked with the guys over at Chase where I bought my speakers. They suggested to set all of my speakers crossovers to 80hz and set up the speakers using my SPL. I came up with setting it to 85db by reading some things on these forums.
> 
> I saw that most people said set it to 75db and a couple of others said 85db. I assumed that 85db is louder than 75db so that should be better. I will set everything down to 75db and see how that goes. Since I like a lot of bass can I still run my sub at 80db? Or will that screw everything up?
> 
> The other was that I had the Soundcard volume all the way up. I was also not hooked up to the Onkyo. I was hooked up to the sub amp. My Onkyo was not involved in the sub test.


Can you elaborate on what you mean by "the setup would change" every time you would run Audyssey? Have you read and followed the instructions posted here?

At a high level, here are the steps I follow:

1. Run an Audyssey calibration, following the guidelines in the link above. Make sure you use the full eight measurement positions according to the guidelines.
2. After the calibration has completed, set all speakers to "small"--this engages the AVR's bass management and directs bass frequencies below the crossover points to the sub(s).
3. Set crossovers on satellites to 80 Hz (unless Audyssey has set a higher value, in which case leave the crossover setting unchanged).
4. Set the AVR to "Stereo", leaving Audyssey room correction enabled for Stereo mode, but turn Dynamic EQ and Dynamic Volume off for the measurements.
5. Using a "Y" connector, connect the output from the Soundblaster X-Fi to the left and right stereo inputs on your AVR (normally using the AUX Input).
6. Run the REW measurements.

Note that this method will output the test tones to both your left and right satellite speakers as well as your sub(s). Your satellite speakers contribute to the overall bass response, so it is important to include them in the measurements. A smooth transition from the sub(s) to the satellites at the crossover point is essential for the overall bass response, so by including the satellites you will be able to see if there are any issues at the crossover point.

What is most concerning to me is your conclusion that Audyssey makes your system sound worse. That should not be the case. I have used Audyssey calibrations for several AVR's over a number of years, and in every case a properly-run Audyssey calibration resulted in a dramatic improvement in the overall sound quality. If you want to run the sub(s) a little "hot", there is nothing wrong with increasing the sub level, as long as you do it in the AVR sub trim level, not by changing the volume dial on the sub itself.

Edit: Regarding the output volume on the soundcard, that should not be an issue. My output is set to 100%, and the mic recording setting is at 35%.


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## stufine

I did not follow all of those steps. I will the next time I get a chance to run all of that. 

What I meant by Audyssey would change is that I would run it and the Crossovers would be set at 150 or 120. I would run it again and the Crossovers would be set at 100. 

The speakers soundd fine. I was unhappy with how the bass sounded. It was very weak when I set it up with Audyssey. I almost regretted my decision on the speakers I bought. I had 2 18" Subs and it sounded like my old HTIB sub. Then I calibrated it with a SPL and set everything to 85db and my sub to 90db. That was when I started rocking the house. I can't help but smile when I am watching a movie and the walls start shaking. It may be too much for most but I like it. My wife is actually getting used to it too. I turned the bass down before and watched Despicable Me. When the Spaceship took off she ask what the hell I did. What happened to the bass???? I turned it back up. 

The graph was lower then I turned up the Freq and the Bandwidth and that is my current readout. I will set everything to 75db and try Audyssey again with those directions you gave me.


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## Mal01

[/ATTACH]I used Jerry`s info from pg.4 to calibrate my card, does this look right?

Thanks.


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## JohnM

Looks fine.


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## Mal01

Thank you!


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## AustinJerry

Mal01 said:


> [/ATTACH]I used Jerry`s info from pg.4 to calibrate my card, does this look right?
> 
> Thanks.


Looks good to me!


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## Darkmatter

Having some trouble calibrating my c-fi xtream music, i have disabled everything at both driver and console level and still the soundcard seems to be cutting in very late, taking til 60hz to get going. anone got any idea why ?


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## JohnM

Bear in mind the scale, the response is only about 0.1dB down at 60Hz, the -3dB frequency is just over 8Hz. That is a good calibration result.


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## mark_anderson_us

JohnM said:


> On the Speaker Properties -> Levels you must *mute* the Line In level, that level controls how much of the line in signal gets fed back out to the speakers, if it is not muted you have a feedback loop. Control the line in level from the Recording device properties.


Thanks John. Worked for me


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## Thomasdk1405

Hi ! New to this and trying to get the soundcard calibrated. Windows 8.1, soundblaster x-fi hd usb and drivers that came with cd. Problem is when I go from line out to line in with cable there is no sound in the line in. Tested with music from iphone - line in ok. Tested line out to my receiver - all ok, but when I loop nothing. When I check windows mixer. - only input in the "what u hear" card or what ever that is. When I pull the line out cable - the "what you hear" still gets input. Shouldnt this stop ? Did try to calibrate sound card using the what u hear - and just get a flat line. Some how I dont believe this. In all the above its either win 7, vista, xp but how to this on win 8.1 ? Something wrong with driver or ? Hope someone here can help. I do have the radio shack spl - and considering the minidsp umik-1 - but its expensive so hope I can get this to work some how.
Thx in advance.
/Thomas


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