# Building panels..



## Horrorfan33 (Jun 11, 2013)

I'm building a few 2' x 4' panels..I noticed a few people have circular holes in their frames..Is this a needed step and if so, what exactly do they do?
I am also covering the back of the panels with a sheet a lightweight cardboard to hold the insulation inside..does the backing need to have breathing holes as well?


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Holes in the side just expose more absorptive surface to the room. It's optional.

In the rear, while cardboard is not a big deal, using some plain window screen stapled to the back will let it breathe and perform better when spaced off a wall or straddling a corner.


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## natescriven (Jan 12, 2011)

I drilled holes in the edges of 1x3's. It was a lot of work, but it made me feel better! Plus the frame was significantly lighter this way.


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

Looks really good. You will love the difference that treating a room does.


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## Horrorfan33 (Jun 11, 2013)

Thanks a lot guys!!..I will just drill the holes out..I will post some pics of my progress later tonight


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Looks great. I will be interested to see how you like em. Years ago a friend came over to my apartment that I had made DIY Diffusers and Tube traps, and he didn't think there was a difference... So I said lets pull them all down and see what it sounds like. Man the before and after shocked us both! When I was adding them I didn't notice the difference but man when they were removed it sounded real bad!


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## Andre (Feb 15, 2010)

I thought about just using Roxul Comfortboard IS (1.5") two ply with a 1/4" foam tape spacer to give and air gap. Should be sturdy enough to require no framing at all


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## natescriven (Jan 12, 2011)

I just read about someone else who wasn't satisfied with the look of just fabric wrapped panels. They edges get rounded down and they look more pillow like and less square on the edges. If you make a frame, it doesn't have to be robust, just something to stretch the fabric over.


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## Horrorfan33 (Jun 11, 2013)

Made a few frames...I used wood glue and 2 drywall screws at the corners..1.25" holes drilled throughout the frame..


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## Horrorfan33 (Jun 11, 2013)




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## Horrorfan33 (Jun 11, 2013)

I think the grey matches my wall pretty well..Now just have to add the insulation and back piece


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

You have done a good job in wrapping the frame and I like the combination of the wall and panel colours.


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## gary thomas (Dec 6, 2007)

Thanks to all the great advice on this forum I've been building (and re-building) some acoustic panels & bass traps. I'm up to 11 & plan 3 more full panels plus 3 corner traps. This has been a fairly big investment since I started from scratch. 

First step was to get the right tools. In the past I put together 4 panels with hand saws, screwdrivers & glue...not the way to go. I decided to spend $300 on a table saw, pneumatic brad gun & stapler and a compressor. Worth every penny...if you're going to make more than 2 or 3 panes, I highly recommend getting the right tools. 

I also spent $250 on stuff for REW - calibrated Dayton umm-6 microphone, a used BFD1124, new eprom chip, midi cables, interconnects. 

I've got $600 into the acoustic panels. I used parts & Linacoustic insulation from 4 panels I built previously & have enough stuff to build 11 new panels. That comes to $40 per panel. I've purchased 2 cases of 4x8, 2" Roxul 80 & a case of 2" OC 703. I used burlap from ATS for all the panels. I made the frames out of 1x2 boards from Home Depot that were $3 for an 8' length. 

So far I have six, 4" panels on my front wall, a 7" panel in the front left corner & 6" panel on the front right wall (next to a door). I also put 2, 3" panels on the ceiling & have another 6" panel next to a column on a side wall. I have plans for a couple on the back wall & a few corner traps in a cut-out section of the room. 

You can't really tell from the picture, but the theater section of my basement is painted a dark midnight blue. The black panels virtually disappear. 

I haven't done any "after" REW measurement yet, other than just A-B the 4 original panels before & after I modified the design to add the air gap behind. It did make a measurable difference.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Looks great! Are you using 2 pieces of Burlap... 1 for the back, then filling and then wrapping the whole bit?


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## gary thomas (Dec 6, 2007)

Exactly. I used the ATS lightweight for the back & regular burlap & microsuede for the cover. http://www.atsacoustics.com/lightweight-burlap-fabric.html


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Be careful with the suede. Look at the test number with the suede. It reflects a lot of high frequencies where the burlap does not.


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## natescriven (Jan 12, 2011)

I chose the 'costume' suede over the more expensive one because I could breathe through it much easier. Do you think that'll help with the absorption of high frequencies?


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## gary thomas (Dec 6, 2007)

...didn't know that about suede. I assumed since it's "acoustic fabric" from ATS I would have been fine. Something else to nag at me! http://www.atsacoustics.com/item--Microsuede-Fabric-60-inch-wide--1027.html


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Don't know what the costume suede is - sorry. 

Gary - have to look at the test results for panels with the Suede to see what it's doing. Would be nice if they told you those things. Very typical for companies like that which are just building panels and don't really have a clue about acoustics.


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## jmoussa (Dec 7, 2013)

Hi guys. I was just wondering, some people say to add a sheet of say kraft paper on the front of bass traps just to make sure your room will not sound too dead. Any advice on this subject?
thanks in advance.


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## jmoussa (Dec 7, 2013)

by the way, those bass traps on the ceiling look fantastic.:4stars:


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

It would depend where in the room it's going to be, what else is in the room, etc. In the front, I would not in most cases. In the rear for HT, probably would

Those are just generalities. Would need to know more about the overall situation.


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## jmoussa (Dec 7, 2013)

thanks bpape for your reply.
Its for 2 channel listening where the primary LP is 10 feet away. So i was thinking to put a few on the horizontal walls where the ceiling meets and also some vertically.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

For 2 channel and straddling corners, as long as you have the early reflections otherwise covered with either absorption or diffusion, putting a facing on them is fine. The denser the facing, the lower in will start to cut off the absorption. Just use a damped, flexible membrane like MLV - not something like plywood that is stiff.


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## jmoussa (Dec 7, 2013)

thanks Bryan.
Ive already taken care of early reflections using foam tiles, to the sides ,behind speakers and behind my head. So instead of kraft paper ,i should put mlv on the front. I also have a rug in front of the mains. Can you please describe for me what mlv kind of looks like.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

If it were me, I'd pull down the foam and pitch it quite honestly. It's purely high frequency only absorption which is the last thing a room needs - more skewing toward too much high absorption. Fiberglass or mineral wall a few inches thick would be a better choice, or diffusion.

Behind the speakers you're concerned with boundary related phase peaks and dips that will require more like 4" of fiberglass. Behind you, pending what is going on there, think more like 6-8" with the membrane on it. If no cancellations of note behind you, then diffusion is a better choice or a mix of both.

MLV is Mass Loaded Vinyl. Think of the doors that are open all winter with the note quite clear vinyl strips that hang down so it stays somewhat warm inside yet fork trucks can go in and out.


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## jmoussa (Dec 7, 2013)

Thankyou so much Bryan.

So pretty much ive got the right idea, just need to change the tiles to the thicker stuff like fibreglass.
Sorry Bryan im pretty slow with this kind of stuff. The panels around the speaker area will not need mlv, just the bass trapping panels in corners but not every single one of them. For example if i had 10 bass trap panels in the corners , i should just put mlv on 5 of them.?


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

What needs to really happen is to look at what the target decay time should be in the room and what it is untreated. Look at the things one normally does in a multi-channel environment - kill the front wall, address side wall reflections and get some bass control in the room. THEN you can better asses how many of what would be needed where rather than just putting up a bunch of stuff and hoping.


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## jmoussa (Dec 7, 2013)

thankyou Bryan.

got a really good idea what to do now.

And you have nothing to worry about, i wont call you Shirley.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Much appreciated....


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

bpape said:


> What needs to really happen is to look at what the target decay time should be in the room and what it is untreated. Look at the things one normally does in a multi-channel environment - kill the front wall, address side wall reflections and get some bass control in the room. THEN you can better asses how many of what would be needed where rather than just putting up a bunch of stuff and hoping.


Surely this is the best advice or place to start for any home theater.


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