# New Dedicated Home Theater



## vidiot33 (Dec 12, 2013)

Hi: I've been interested in home theater since the 80's and now for the first time at the age of 56, I finally am in a position to build a dedicated room, actually more of a refit. After much research, this is the situation.
Specifics: the room is about 18 by 21, 8 ft ceiling (but suspended tiles make it more like 71/2), concrete floor with padding and carpet.
It has a double door wall walkout in the rear.
It originally opened to two hallways, which I'm in the process of closing off with a soundproofed wall (double stud framing, acoustical sealant, safe n sound insulation, a total of 3 layers of 5/8 drywall with Green Glue applied to each section.) our master bedroom is down one of the 2 hallways (hence the sound proofing). We also installed a 36" insulated exterior door leading in and out of the theater.
Once the wall is finished, the plan is to paint the walls with Roscoe black velour acrylic paint, add Cinetile 5/8 matte black ceiling tiles , add Safe n Sound batts to the ceiling joists ( they're over 3" thick) pull out the old carpet, add a floating subfloor (separated dual 3/8 plywood), add a riser and black carpet, with thickest possible padding, then add 6 black recessed lights and 2 black eyeball lights. Following this, I'd like to add some bass traps and possibly other treatment.
Please share any thoughts, ideas, criticisms or suggestions. Many thanks!


----------



## dougc (Dec 19, 2009)

Have you considered the same treatment to the ceiling as you plan to do to the walls? What are you doing for the A/V gear?


----------



## vidiot33 (Dec 12, 2013)

dougc said:


> Have you considered the same treatment to the ceiling as you plan to do to the walls? What are you doing for the A/V gear?


As much as I'd like to soundproof the ceiling as I am the walls, there's no way I can think of to build a double ceiling (even if I could, it would make the ceiling to floor distance too low. The best acoustic tiles I could find are 3 inches thick and cost $80 for each one, ouch! I can buy a package of 12 batts of Safe n Sound from Lowes for around $40, and fill in each joist cavity with them. Each one is over 3 inches thick. Combined with the 5/8 Cinetiles, this should actually give me better soundproofing than just the expensive tiles alone. 
My AV gear will be in a stand off to the side ( not a perfect solution, and I may do more later with that later). My monoblock amps will have their own low stands near the speakers, and the front projector will be mounted from the ceiling.
Appreciate your input. Please let me know if you have any more thoughts.


----------



## dougc (Dec 19, 2009)

I think you would gain about 3-4" if you use 1/2" osb, clips and double 5/8 and GG on the ceiling. Are you building a false wall for the PJ screen? You can hide the subs and front speakers behind it if you use an acoustically transparent screen.


----------



## vidiot33 (Dec 12, 2013)

dougc said:


> I think you would gain about 3-4" if you use 1/2" osb, clips and double 5/8 and GG on the ceiling. Are you building a false wall for the PJ screen? You can hide the subs and front speakers behind it if you use an acoustically transparent screen.


Thanks for the suggestions. I'd like to use an acoustic screen, but that would put me over budget. I agree about the ceiling, but that's more work than I'm willing to do right now. I also like being able to access water lines, cables and light fixtures easily just lifting the ceiling tiles. The ceiling might be a project for another day, especially if it turns out what I planned to do keeps the sound out of the upstairs above the theater. Have to make some compromises, but what I am doing should really improve things from the former situation.


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

If you're going to have a drop tile ceiling, save yourself some money on the 3 layers of drywall and green glue. The ceiling is a huge acoustic 'hole' so no point putting money into the walls when the sound will go right around them.


----------



## vidiot33 (Dec 12, 2013)

bpape said:


> If you're going to have a drop tile ceiling, save yourself some money on the 3 layers of drywall and green glue. The ceiling is a huge acoustic 'hole' so no point putting money into the walls when the sound will go right around them.


Hi Bryan: I see your point, but the wall separates the theater from the master bedroom, so it should help keep it queiter . Also, I'm thinking the Safe N Sound acoustical insulation in the ceiling should help to some degree, even if it' a not going to be as effective as the double 5/8ths drywall would be, certainly much better than how it is now. By the way, I noticed you work for GIK acoustics. When I'm finished, I plan to invest in some bass traps and possibly other treatment, and your company is my first choice for that.


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

We appreciate that.

The shared wall with the double wall construction will definitely help. Just be very careful of shared ceiling spaces and shared HVAC runs between the rooms.

Bryan


----------



## vidiot33 (Dec 12, 2013)

bpape said:


> We appreciate that.
> 
> The shared wall with the double wall construction will definitely help. Just be very careful of shared ceiling spaces and shared HVAC runs between the rooms.
> 
> Bryan


Hi Bryan: what is the recommended treatment for duct runs?


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

well, if at all possible, don't tie them together close to each other. The runs for the HT room shoudl be boxed in MDF and have a couple of bends in them - preferably running back to a trunk line farther away or almost back to the source. Don't use tin, use duct board or flex duct


----------



## vidiot33 (Dec 12, 2013)

bpape said:


> well, if at all possible, don't tie them together close to each other. The runs for the HT room shoudl be boxed in MDF and have a couple of bends in them - preferably running back to a trunk line farther away or almost back to the source. Don't use tin, use duct board or flex duct


Ducts are already run, is there a good way to minimize noise/vibration?


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Wrap the outside in (can't remember the name) sticky 'lead' that they use on car bodies to damp noise. At a minimum, I would prefer you cut out a 1' section and tie together with flex duct so you stop physical vibration transfer.


----------



## vidiot33 (Dec 12, 2013)

bpape said:


> Wrap the outside in (can't remember the name) sticky 'lead' that they use on car bodies to damp noise. At a minimum, I would prefer you cut out a 1' section and tie together with flex duct so you stop physical vibration transfer.


Thanks Bryan!


----------

