# Troubleshooting 3D on Optoma w303



## citisyn (Feb 25, 2014)

I will be as detailed as possible to hopefully keep the thread posts short and also maybe help others with their experiences. *I will highlight all pertinent information and keywords to reduce unnecessary reading for those without the time to read such a long-worded post.*

I recently purchased a *Optoma W303 WXGA 3200 Lumen Full 3D DLP projector* for my new home theater. In addition, I have purchased *Active-Shutter IR glasses (Playstation 3 brand) and I have ensured that they are charged and turned on when testing my 3D display.*

(Link to Optoma W303 Projector)
(Link to PS3 IR 3D Glasses)
(Link to quick manual)

*According to the Optoma user guide* for my model, it says that some of their *"3D-Ready" projectors require a RF emitter hooked into a VESA port for RF glasses, but I don't seem to have this port, and my projector is advertised as "Full 3D" and not "3D-Ready" so my best guess is that this is the problem* but I don't want to waste too much money on trial and error (which is why I'm asking help from the community after hours of searching on google).

My next guess would have to be the glasses themselves. I have read debates on both sides whether or not it is essential to use glasses that are the same brand of the projector. *According to the settings menu, my projector can use IR or DLP Link and I'm also wondering if DLP Link would have been a better route.*

I have tried two tests:

First, *my Playstation3 has recognized a 3D capable display and the settings are updated.* I currently only have one game in 3D format: Batman Arkham City. *I enabled the 3D settings in the menu*, which gives a few options:

1) Infinicolor (which I understand to be the colored glasses)

Or

3DTV

2) Intensity (which I understand to be depth of the 3D)

And the third option is gamma or contrast I believe.

Anyway, *using the 3DTV setting, the background is more blurry the higher the intensity slider setting and wearing the glasses don't make any noticeable difference.*

The second test was using my laptop with *VGA connection*. Windows 7 with stock integrated *Intel 4 Mobile Graphics Accelerator graphics card*. *Stereoscopic video player with multiple 3D test clips (side by side & top and bottom) using the appropriate or top & bottom settings for the file and software page flipping for viewing output.*

The results seem CLOSE, with a lot of adjustments to alignment of images....but I think that's just me being optimistic because again, *no difference with glasses on or off* besides the image being slightly darker through the tint of glasses it's just obvious that the tests were made with 3D technology.* Nothing is "popping out" of the screen and there's no feeling of depth or immersion with the background like I've seen in a movie theater but I don't know really what to expect with home theater applications.*

Any help would be most appreciated.

Here are additional details of my setup if necessary:

The projector is basically *ceiling mounted* using cheap resources I already had available but I plan to order something more professional because even though the top of the screen is perfectly leveled and flush with the angle of the ceiling on a rectangle wall, the bottom of the image is ever so slightly skewed due to my poor craftsmanship (others might not notice, but I do).

*My projected image is about 143"* right now *onto a textured beige-colored wall* at the moment. I know that having a neutral color that bounces back or absorbs the right amount of light is important to get it looking good. I plan to use Tyvek, a type of bright white fiber-paper that I can easily get ahold of that will be painted with:

*Sherwin-Williams ProClassic Smooth Enamel Satin Extra White, # B20 W 51*

According to a detailed article I read, when the paint dries, it will appear practically professional in quality.

I know that these adjustments to the mount and projection area will make the 3D experience better, but I should at least have a recognizable starting point, right?

Again, any help or input is much appreciated.
:help:
Thanks!


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## citisyn (Feb 25, 2014)

I posted this same question on another forum to increase response time. This was my answer and response (still unsolved....but a step in the right direction I hope).



> Quote:
> Looks like you had no means of synchronizing your glasses with the projector. You will need the glasses' emitter connected to the projector. (No emitter is needed with the DLP-link glasses.)
> 
> Also, you didn't mention if the picture was "double", indicating 3D projection (left and righ view); the "blurry" background you mentioned may be actually that, so you seem to be getting the 3D; you just need the glasses synched in order to separate the views.
> ...


 
Thank you for your response, Roussi. I did not know that DLP-Link glasses do not need an emitter to work. (Honestly I didn't know IR glasses needed one until after receiving them in.)

BTW: You're right, I forgot to mention that the projector can be set to 120hz refresh rate when I hook it up to laptop. Hopefully I won't need a better graphics card or something.

I still don't understand why my projector shows support for IR in the settings, but I am unable to find an RF Emitter for my model. Searching through the Optoma website, there is only one RF emitter for their projectors and mine isn't listed as compatible with it. I even tried looking for a PS3 brand IR emitter with no luck. Even if I were to find this emitter, they seem to work through a VESA port, which I do not have on my projector.

I have seen a 3D converter box for Optoma called 3D-XL which has the VESA port and an HDMI in and HDMI out for $200-$300. The RF emitter for optoma is about $40. So, it would appear I could either spend about
$340 to get my current IR glasses to work.

But, to me, it sounds like my best lowest-cost option with minimal headaches would be to purchase active shutter DLP-Link glasses and skip the need for an RF emitter and this 3D-XL conversion box. 

Roussi, do you have any advice on whether or not brand-matching is important?

I do not want to cut corners, but I want to make sure I don't pay too much for something uneccessary.

For cheapest DLP-Link,
I could get this one cheap-o pair for $20

For specifically Optoma brand,
I could get this one for $72

For best deal,
I could get these 4 for $140

Looks like I wasted $85 on 4 pairs of glasses I will probably never use. Hopefully I can find someone to buy them...I might just have to hit a pawn shop and take a substantial loss.

Also, preemptive question, how do I sync DLP-Link glasses? I understand they more frequently need to be synced than RF or IR glasses....how does this process go? I know there is a Re-Sync button on my remote for the projector. Is it as simple as pressing that and maybe inverting left and right images when necessary? Also, my understanding is that DLP-Link uses a full-white image to communicate with the projector and glasses. If this is so, then it seems like a 100% must that I get my projector area painted the correct color so that the white will be pure, correct?

I will place my order tonight, and I should receive within a week...so if this thread can stay open until then, I will post my results at that time.


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## citisyn (Feb 25, 2014)

Solved:

Problem:
IR/RF glasses needed emitter not sold with projector or made clear in product details.

Solution:
Optoma BG-ZD301 DLP-Link glasses. It's all good now.


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