# When to calibrate projector



## kpl (Feb 17, 2010)

When I install my projector do I need to calibrate it right away or do I need to let the bulb burn in awhile? Like wise do I need to redo it every time I change the bulb?


----------



## Anthony (Oct 5, 2006)

I would let the bulb burn in a bit before calibration. Not sure on how long, hopefully one of our resident ISF's can chime in.

I would definitely check the calibration after changing bulbs, but as for a full on re-cal, it may not be necessary.


----------



## mechman (Feb 8, 2007)

I've always read that the rule of thumb is to calibrate after a couple hundred hours. If you change the bulb you will need to calibrate it after a couple hundred hours again.


----------



## lcaillo (May 2, 2006)

The ones that I have tested seem to shift most in the first hundred hours. I'd say that as mech suggested, you are pretty safe at 200 hours.


----------



## kpl (Feb 17, 2010)

Thank you, trying to decide if I want to install the projector or wheather I want to have it installed. Is it easy to install and calibrate. Epson 8500UB


----------



## chadnliz (Feb 12, 2010)

That unit may not need a pro........dont waste your money if you dont need to! BTW GREAT CHOICE!


----------



## DeBo (Feb 14, 2010)

Always safe at 200 hours.

I have never seen any projector or flat panel or rear projection etc. that didn't benefit from some type of calibration! IMO


----------



## kpl (Feb 17, 2010)

If I was to install it myself how far down from the ceiling would I put the screen? I thought I read somewhere that the screen had to be below the projector. I am planning on a 100" screen and my ceiling is about 7'8" and 105" wide. Would the projector go in the center of the screen? I looked at the calculator at projector central but I didn't see where it said about screen height from the ceiling. I just hate to screw it up and have to patch holes. Took me 2 years to finish basement to this point. I will be sitting about 14 ft from the screen if that matters. I was planning to put inwall speakers below the screen unless someone has a better idea.


----------



## glaufman (Nov 25, 2007)

I think the idea of the projectorcentral calculator is to give you the vertical distance from the top of the screen to the center of the lens... from there you can take the distance you want the screen from the ceiling and determine how far from the ceiling the PJ needs to go... or vice-versa...
I second, or even third, the opinions that a good calibration can help every display.


----------



## chadnliz (Feb 12, 2010)

Check the model you want to buy for its vertical lense shift value, many are going to be just fine if Projector is about the same height as the top of the Projector screen, I dont think you will end up buying a unit that would force you to mount Projector inline with middle of the screen. Download a manual from the model you want and it will tell you what the parameters are as far as shift and placement.
Many units are very close to a calibrated Projector so spending $300-$500 (which is what its going to cost) for calibration is often a questionable value........................you can get disc that come with the modes for calibration aswell as blue filter glasses to do it yourself. If one is spending under $2000 thats a huge expense to have a guy do for you (its a huge expense no matter what you buy after everything you already paid to get going) what you may very well be able to do for a $30 disc. Buy your model and try it yourself, if you like what you see dont waste your money, if you feel you need some help bring somebody in but dont assume you need this service.
I have 2 calibration discs that came with my Oppo BluRay players with the Blue filters and if you need I can loan you one to try once you get going, just pay postage and promise to return it. Cheers


----------



## glaufman (Nov 25, 2007)

Calibrations can of course be done yourself, but there is a limit to what you can do by eye with the test discs vs what can be done with equipment.


----------



## kpl (Feb 17, 2010)

Thanks guys, I will be going with the Epson 8500UB. Thanks for the offer Chad I may take you up on it when I get it, as soon as my budget allows.


----------



## mechman (Feb 8, 2007)

Epson had a projector placement calculator on their web page the last time I was there. It's still there but it's down for maintenance right now.

IMO, calibration can not be achieved with a disk. You can get proper white and black levels with a disk but that's about it. From my limited testing using the filters and the color bars, you cannot get accurate color with anything less than a meter. This may or may not matter to you. Most folks probably don't care and rightly so because calibration can be expensive.


----------



## glaufman (Nov 25, 2007)

I believe any time you make adjustments so that the output is proper for a given input, it's a calibration. Yes, you can get more accurate with a meter. Yes, you can calibrate things with that meter that you can't do by eye. But IMO that doesn't mean that making adjustments visually so that a test pattern looks the way it should is not a calibration. I like to call it a "basic" calibration as opposed to the meter based "advanced calibration."


----------



## lcaillo (May 2, 2006)

What one calls calibration can certainly be debated, but regardless of where you draw the line, it is useful to qualify one's statements on the matter, as many people have very different understandings of what it means. 

Calibration, as most would agree, is adjusting something to some standard. Calibration can be precise or not, depending on the tools and the standards. Because of the range of needs and the range of the kinds of adjustments that are made, the term is applied loosely.

I offer services at various levels depending on the need of the client and prefer to call what I do system optimization because of the wide variety of levels of service needed by different users. I generally classify video calibration into three categories, BULC (Basic User Level Calibration), SLC (Service Level Calibration), and Precision Calibration.

Most end users need only BULC, which may involve using test discs or generated signals or may not. Every user should start here, IME, and learn what one can get from the system for little or no cost. Learning to adjust the basic user controls, contrast, brightness, and color, is very important in all cases, IMNSHO. Beyond those three, one should become familiar with all of the other controls that a given set might have, as well as with what the impressions of the image are on various sources. After getting to that point, if you are happy with the results, there is no need for a profesional nor for further calibration. Some people and some installations can benefit from more, and if so I would not consider it a waste of money to do so. It may be money very well spent if you find the right help.

As for discs, Avia and DVE are very good, but for many people the Monster/ISF disc is very easy to use and has the benefit of using some real world images that are explained very well. This is useful because it helps people to learn what to look for in things that they may watch and how to use the controls beyond the test patterns. Test patterns like ramps, stairsteps, and pluges are very useful, and help get one step closer to a reference, but also leave many users without the skills for adjusting their set under normal viewing conditions.


----------



## glaufman (Nov 25, 2007)

IMNSHO? Is that your Not So Honest Opinion? 
I agree with 100% Len. Always the Voice of Reason you are.
Out of curiosity, what gets done in your Precision Calibration that isn't done in a Service Level? Is that simply when you add outside processors?
I'm most familiar with DVE and THX, though I've played with Avia. Out of those, I prefer DVE, though the SD version can be a pain to navigate. I've not had the pleasure with Monster/ISF.


----------



## lcaillo (May 2, 2006)

Hey, honest I am, humble, well, not so much.:bigsmile:

Because most of what I do is repair, I can't do full calibrations with every job. Service level calibration involves gray scale, convergence, focus, etc, but without the spectrophotometer and with less attention to detail. I go far beyond what most repair techs do and take great pride that nearly all of my clients find that their sets look far better when repaired than before they broke. It is not possible to spend the time to get the full calibration done, however. I can usually get gray scale much closer than most people without a meter, but you just can't be that accurate without it. Color decoders or CMS alignment is next to impossible without the meter.


----------



## kpl (Feb 17, 2010)

Thanks everyone. I think I will try it on my own and if I need help I will ask or hire someone.


----------



## glaufman (Nov 25, 2007)

Good luck, enjoy the process, and don't forget to ask for help!


----------

