# Upgrading/Modding Component Cabinet



## mpompey (Jan 5, 2007)

Here is my current cabinet. It is a 50" TechCraft Audio component
cabinet. It's been good over the years (at least 7) but it is
definitely long in the tooth. I've been wanting the Sanus 60"
rack mount cabinet but the cost is a little out of my budget
as I'm saving up for a Onkyo TX-NR3009 receiver this spring.









As you can see I've got consoles on the top, with my 
Xbox 360 resting on top of my turntable. I would love to have
both of them in the cabinet proper. I'm thinking about adding
2 additional shelves and seeing if I can squeeze them in there.


At the same time I've been thinking about building a DIY flexey 
based audio cabinet that I've seen online using MDF & threaded
steel rods. IF so I'm thinking about building the napkin based
design in the second image. That one would let me also install
an old Technics cassette deck (yes I still have some tapes!) as
well as build in some space for storage.









So stay tuned to this month's DIY project.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Subscribed! :bigsmile:


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## mpompey (Jan 5, 2007)

Further refinement of my DIY Cabinet idea:

After doing some calculations, I'm not going to be able to mod
my current cabinet and get all the gear inside without adequate
room to breathe. So it definitely looks like Flexey is the way to go for me.

Initial calculations of the weight is around 300 lbs with equipment and
3/4 inch MDF. It looks to be 5.5 shelves of 23" X 41" MDF should do it.

I'll check out Home Depot and see what they have. 

MP


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## Wardsweb (Apr 2, 2010)

This are really easy to build. I've done many over the years for friends in different configurations. Here is a pic that may help.










I typically use 3/4" x 10' threaded rod. Look in the yellow pages under "nuts & bolts" and ask for all thread. You want the Zinc plated because it is a better grade and clean (regular rod is greased). I have them cut it in half.

Pictures of different versions

http://wardsweb.org/audio/rack2.html


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Wardsweb said:


> This are really easy to build. I've done many over the years for friends in different configurations. Here is a pic that may help.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I made mine like this (just like the Proac single). I also got some aluminum tubing and painted it black. The tubing was cut to the distance from the top of the nut on one shelf to the bottom of the nut supporting the shelve above. I purchased all the parts at Lowes, and since I did not have a drill press I made a jig and used a plunge router to make all the holes. Worked out great!


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## mpompey (Jan 5, 2007)

Thanks guys I appreciate the help. Wardsweb's link was one of the articles I found on line that inspired me.

I've called a couple of places here in Philly and they stock the 10' rods but change $50 to cut one. So I'm still looking. I don't have a drill press but I plan to get a plunge jig for my cordless drill so that should help me out with drilling consistent holes for the rods as well as for wire management.

What size casters do you guys recommend?


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

I went with 4" casters on mine (which is not the same design as Luther's unfortunately - love the design) which are rated at 300 lbs per caster. Probably overkill, but it sure makes it much easier to roll over carpet.


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## mpompey (Jan 5, 2007)

Okay, I was thinking about 3" casters for mine. I think I found a retailer that will cut my threaded rod down to 60". But it looks like they sell the rods in 8 rod bundles instead of individually.

How much should a rod go for?

MP


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## Tonto (Jun 30, 2007)

You can cut them yourself, just put a nut on the rod below the cut. That way you can remove the nut over the cut end which will regrove the burr. You can then file the rough edge down. I use a fine, triangular file, works well to get into the thread/groove.


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## BD55 (Oct 18, 2011)

Tonto said:


> You can cut them yourself, just put a nut on the rod below the cut. That way you can remove the nut over the cut end which will regrove the burr. You can then file the rough edge down. I use a fine, triangular file, works well to get into the thread/groove.


That is a great idea! That is definitely the worst part about cutting allthread or bolts where you can't get the end smooth enough after cutting to get the nut back on. Bravo :clap:

Looking forward to seeing how this turns out! :T


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## mpompey (Jan 5, 2007)

I found a local retailer, diamond tool, that carries all of the rods, nuts, and washers I need. And their prices are a bit cheaper then McMasters. Need to decide whether 5/8" or 3/4" is the way to go. I see designs with both across the internet. I assume 3/4 is going to be stronger.

Which would you guys recommend for six 20" x 43" MDF shelves?


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## BD55 (Oct 18, 2011)

3/4 will be stronger in the sense that it will resist bending more than 5/8 will. Are you adding tubing as well? If so, don't bother with the 3/4 and just go with the 5/8 and rely on the all thread and tubing to help keep the assembly from swaying side to side.


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## mpompey (Jan 5, 2007)

I wasn't considering adding tubing to the rack. 

I thought a little about maybe painting the rods though.


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## mpompey (Jan 5, 2007)

I got some initial prices back for this Flexy rack, and I must be doing something seriously wrong here. My estimates for this dual sided rack is quickly approaching $250. Here's my initial materials list:

(6) 2.5" casters: $24
(6) 3/4" 6ft zinc plated threaded rods: $95
(6) 2' x 4' MDF boards: $70
(80) 3/4" hex nuts: $35

Of course, this doesn't take in account paint, rollers, washers, etc. Part of me is wondering if it may be cheaper to purchase versus build. Granted, I love a good DIY project as much as the next guy. But I was expecting this to be a lot cheaper than it is.


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## BD55 (Oct 18, 2011)

Looks like it would be significantly less expensive to build it with just wood; the all thread and nuts are killing you.


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## mpompey (Jan 5, 2007)

I was wondering if that might be the case myself.

I guess I could rework the design based on an all wood solution and price that out to compare.

I just get nervous thinking about building it out of all wood. I'm a database programmer by trade, 
no where near a carpenter.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

BD55 said:


> 3/4 will be stronger in the sense that it will resist bending more than 5/8 will. Are you adding tubing as well? If so, don't bother with the 3/4 and just go with the 5/8 and rely on the all thread and tubing to help keep the assembly from swaying side to side.


I used 5/8" allthread with aluminum tubing for my racks. It wasn't the cheapest route but I know it was considerably less than buying a similar rack at retail prices.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

mpompey said:


> Thanks guys I appreciate the help. Wardsweb's link was one of the articles I found on line that inspired me.
> 
> I've called a couple of places here in Philly and they stock the 10' rods but change $50 to cut one. So I'm still looking. I don't have a drill press but I plan to get a plunge jig for my cordless drill so that should help me out with drilling consistent holes for the rods as well as for wire management.
> 
> What size casters do you guys recommend?


You can cut them with a hacksaw... Just put a couple of nuts on each side of the cut so you can clean up the threads when you are done.


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## mpompey (Jan 5, 2007)

I redid the design last night based on an all wood option. Basically a dual sided version of the rack I have, with adjustable shelves on both sides. Initial estimates based on cutlist pro have me using about 2.5 sheets of MDF. Knocks about $130 of total cost projections.

(6) 2.5" casters: $24
(3) 4' x 8' MDF boards: $100
(2) Box of screws: $8

Decisions, decisions...


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