# Help securing soffit



## CdnTiger (Feb 16, 2007)

Hi all. I'm in the process of building my soffits surrounding a couple of steel beams supporting the main floor above. My plan is to use 2 layers of 5/8" DW with GG in between, and secure the soffit to the hat channel on either side of the steel beam by way of a 2x2 screwed through one layer of DW into the hat channel. I've attached a couple of pics of what I've got so far, but I don't trust the soffit to stay up long term!

The problem is, the fine thread 2.5" DW screws I bought didn't seem to cut it, as they tended to just strip the hole in the hat channel instead of tightening the 2x2 to the DW. When I tugged on the 2x2, it was able to be separated from the DW. I tried predrilling the 2x2, but that didn't work either. I ended up predrilling the 2x2 and then using standard 2.5" construction screws, which seemed to work. However, tonight I started on the second beam and was actually able to get my hand far enough behind the DW to feel the screw penetrating through the hat channel. There's less than a 1/4" poking through, I think!  

Are the screws just not long enough? I got these from Rona, and was looking for 2 5/8", which I didn't see (1.5" for 2x2 + 5/8" for DW + 1/2" through the hat channel). Maybe I was too hasty in assuming the 1/8" shorter length wouldn't matter? :whistling: Or do I need different screws?

Any help is appreciated! Thanks!


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

I did whisperclips / hat channel with a layer of OSB, GG, then DW. I also used 2x2s to hang my soffit. To make sure I was securing everything well, I used 3" construction screws. I had no separation at all.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

I the screw's full diameter is penetrating the hat channel, that's all you need . Going any farther isn't buying you any more holding power. 

Bryan


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## CdnTiger (Feb 16, 2007)

Thanks for the tips.

So is the type of screw (standard construction vs. fine thread drywall) not very important, as long as it's long enough to penetrate with its full diameter? I had thought that the screw was pulling out of the hat channel instead of countersinking into the 2x2 due to my screw choice, but it may just have been that only the screw tip was grabbing the channel.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Just my opinion here - but since you are going through a 2x2, 2 layers of drywall, and the hat channel I don't think it matters which one you use as long as more than just the tip goes through the hat channel.

I used the construction screws because the first surface I was penetrating was the 2x2 - silly reason I suppose, but there it is. :bigsmile:


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## CdnTiger (Feb 16, 2007)

I talked to Ted White on the phone this morning and he recommended fine thread screws (and predrilling holes in the 2x2), and at least 1/2" of the thread penetrating through the hat channel (as bpape said, make sure the full diameter of the screw is grabbing the hat channel). I didn't get into suitability of other options, as I was making a trip to HD today anyway...

Apparently you do have to be careful not to over tighten the screws, though. With the wood 2x2 having so much more strength than the hat channel, you'll strip the hat channel before you countersink the screw. Probably why my original screw choice didn't work - it didn't account for the fact the screw head wouldn't be flush with the surface of the 2x2.

Thanks for the help, guys. Time to head down to the basement. :T


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## Syko62 (May 6, 2012)

Hi I am probably to late for any help. Also I am not familiar with your construction terms.

However if you are worried that the screws are not holding can you insert a small section of timber into the hat channel before you fix into it, if i understand it your screws are stripping the thread in the hole you create with the dry wall screw, also a coarse thread will help as it will have to pull a bigger hole to strip if you get carried away with the tightening, use a torque screw driver to ensure they do not strip they are better proud than stripped.

hope this helps 
Chris


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## CdnTiger (Feb 16, 2007)

Thanks Chris. It seems my problem was that the screws I was using weren't quite long enough, so the screws wouldn't be long enough to grab any timber put into the channel either. Also, I'd want to confirm that the timber sitting in the channel wouldn't cause any unwanted vibrations during bass heavy playback.

In any event, the longer screws I subsequently bought seem to be working. And I also bought some liquid nails-type stuff, for added protection.


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## Syko62 (May 6, 2012)

Ok glad you are sorted  As for the timber rattling around it won't!! As long as you screws get into it and it will reinforce the construction considerably. I have used this procedure many times and also come across it when stripping out on contracts and believe me it is tough to strip out when you have things fixed through steel channels and dry wall systems into timber.


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