# Greenster HT



## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

Hello Everyone!
I want to introduce myself. My name is Rich. I am a new member to this forum. My family and I moved into our current house two years ago. It is completely finished including a home theater room. By finished I mean ¾” sheetrock carpet and paint. It also had a ton of coaxial cable, 16 gage speaker wire and cat 5 cables run throughout, and a 10” riser platform which was a nice starting point. Other than that it was it was a very basic Theater. I had never even though about having or building a theater room before this house. I scribed to Home Theater Magazine and joined this forum. I must thank many people here on this forum for their contributions to helping and educating other wanting to learn about all the areas of Home Theater. From most of the posts that I have read here, most of you are very nice, well educated and eager to help others fall in love with your passion of Sight and Sound. Again thank you for all of your hard work and willingness to share it with others. 
I wanted to start this thread to return the favor and maybe help others out who might have a similar Home Theater or the same goals that I have for this build. As I stated earlier, the room isa very typical room like most common houses have. This consists of just sheetrock, carpet and paint. The room also has a 5’X8’ riser and a bunch cable run to the room. 
I started looking at Home Theater Magazine, Houzz as well as this forum and fell in love with many of yours as well as the idea of building my own Theater. I quickly learned how expensive of a project this could become for me. While having my own theater will be nice, it is defiantly not a necessity. With this in mind I began to plan my theater room with the main goal being to build it as inexpensive as possible. I do not want to have it look or sound like cheap either. LOL! I sound like most of my customers. So my project begins.
My room is a good size room at 11’7” wide by 17’6” deep with a 7’6” ceiling. I wish it was a little bit bigger but it will do. I knew that I had to address the acoustics of the room and wanted to isolate it from the rest of the house as best as I could. Again from this forum, I learned about green glue. My room was already finished and I did not want to tear all of the sheetrock out just to decouple it from the studs so I opted to just apply an additional layer of sheetrock with green glue over the existing walls. I did not measure the DB levels before and after I did this, but I can tell you that it did make a difference. I will add that If it is goal to make your room as quiet as possible, you will need to decouple the walls. I did notice that most of the sound leaked through the hollow door of the room so I set off to Home Depot to find me some solid wood doors. $200 and a few hours later I had a nice set of solid doors added to the room. As far as DB levels go. This made a huge difference. 
Next I set off to frame in a tray ceiling. Doing most of the work myself it cost me just over $400. Here is a picture of how far I am right now. 
Budget so far. 
Doors $200
Sheetrock with labor $417
Green Glue $150 (12 tubes ebay)
Cables, wire, boxes, plugs etc. $120
Total:$887


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## hjones4841 (Jan 21, 2009)

Welcome and thanks for joining us! Please visit us often.

Looks like a nice room for a HT. Please keep us up to date with pictures as you make progress.

Read up on room treatments - they make a huge difference in how your system will sound. You can DIY and save $s. Lots of advice in our Home Audio Acoustics forum on what and how to do it.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Nicely done and you found the 2 things that would make the biggest difference in isolation in terms of a non-tear out retrofit type of room. 

Bryan


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Subscribed!

It looks like a great space, and having some of the work done already is a plus! . Good call on adding the GG and extra layer of drywall - I also noticed a big drop off in sound transmission when the 2nd layer was added.

Looking forward to more updates and pictures!


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## JQueen (Jan 11, 2012)

Welcome to the Shack! And as stated above great space for a HT..can't wait to see this one finished


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

I had a chance to clean up the room after the sheet rock. Here are a few more pictures.
:wave:
The first one shows the front arch I did as well as the center wiring. I ran 2 hdmi cables to the projector, 1 cat 5, and one rca video. I ran 14 guage speaker wire for 7.1 system to the usual places. You can see the rear sticking out of the back wall. In addition I ran wire to all four of the top corners. Maybe for future speakers??? Who know. The only reason I did it was for front heigh speakers and maybe rear high down the road if the industry ever goes that way. 
:dontknow:
Now I need to figure out what colors I want to use which has been the hardest part for me.


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## phillihp23 (Mar 14, 2012)

Looking good. Subscribed... Love to watch these rooms come together!


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

If the wife will allow it, go as dark as you can for colors. At the very least, I would do the ceiling black. You really want to try to cut down the possibility for light refraction as much as you can.


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Looks like it's going to be a nice room!
If you're undecided on what colours to use, think about a carpet colour choice first and use a darker tone of one of the colours in the carpet..
You might find this of help..
http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...ction/45282-howto-choose-colours-theatre.html


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

I decided to go with RSL's. Can I just say how great RSL is to work with. They took the time to answer all of my questions and even give me some pointers. I am very excited to get them all hooked up. 
Now I need to build my columns to house them.


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## Owen Bartley (Oct 18, 2006)

Looks like you're off to a great start, Greenster. As far as colours go, if you're going to keep the existing carpet, maybe try a similar but much darker colour. The darker you go, the less the walls and ceiling will show up while watching a movie. Since it seems like this will be a pretty much dedicated movie watching space, it should be easy to justify a functional (dark) paint scheme.


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

I was up late last night building columns for my room. I will post some pictures when I get home. 
I have a question about speaker placement on my back wall. I mounted the side speakers about 8" above my ears when sitting as to not be blocked by another person sitting Beside me, But if I mount the rear speakers above the back row people, it would put them 18" above the prime seating positions ears due to the rear floor riser.. Suggestions? Advice?


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

Got a chance to paint the ceiling. Deep space black.


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## DruNewp (Mar 4, 2013)

Greenster said:


> Got a chance to paint the ceiling. Deep space black.


Love that name. Keep us updated on the room. So far an awesome and promising start!


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## Tonto (Jun 30, 2007)

You don't have to worry about the rear speaker placement. That will be fine, if your building colums for them, you could build the mounting frame such that it angles them towards the prime listening position.

Nice job on the arch, I love to see these rooms come together.


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

I had a chance to paint my theater room this weekend and install 4 of the 6 columns. 









I am still undecided on the unpainted area on the ceiling. Black? The wall color? Or a silver? I know it should be non reflective but silver would look so good.


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

Here is one of the problem areas that I had to deal with. 









The side surround column had to be only 1 1/2" deep as to allow the door to open. 










I am happy how I was able to pull it off.


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

I have a question about bass traps. I am planning on using 2" Corning 703 panels on the entire back wall and then use another 2" on top of that for decorative panels. Can I cover the first 2" with thin wood and paint as to make it appear as just a wall?


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

If you mean wood between the 2 layers, I wouldn't. There isn't enough thickness there to absorb and make the thin wood act like a spring. 4" then wood, then panel, maybe IF (big if) the wood is VERY VERY thin - like maybe 1/16th inch and as long as it is free to move and damped by the fiberglass behind it.

Bryan


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

Would it be ok to cover it with fabric then paint it? 
Another thing that I am thinking about doing is to make a 4" bass trap over my cold storage door. 









It is in the center of the room. Would this be a good or bad idea? I have a bunch of the 703


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

If you paint the fabric, you plug the pores that allow mid and high frequencies through so they will all be reflective in that area of the spectrum.

Bryan


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## Tonto (Jun 30, 2007)

Did you stuff the riser with fluffy in sulation? A must do, it will increase your tactile reponse. 

Since your in the construction stage (kinda). Are you firm on wanting those double doors? I would take out that one door & make the wall longer...double doors are always a challenge.


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

bpape said:


> If you paint the fabric, you plug the pores that allow mid and high frequencies through so they will all be reflective in that area of the spectrum.
> 
> Bryan


If I use additional 2" over the painted panels would that work to control the mid and highs? The only reason I want to cover the entire rear wall with 2" of 703 first is to give the room a very uniform look and still control the bass. I am planning on using additional 2" on every wall and don't want the rear wall to look different.


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

Tonto said:


> Did you stuff the riser with fluffy in sulation? A must do, it will increase your tactile reponse.
> 
> Since your in the construction stage (kinda). Are you firm on wanting those double doors? I would take out that one door & make the wall longer...double doors are always a challenge.


Yes the riser is full of insulation. I added the double doors. I know that they can be tricky bit it really opened my downstairs up. I want to pad them down the road.


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

Had a chance to finish painting and get the speaker columns up.
I also picked up some crown molding that I need to stain first. 
I am debating on running black lights, or led rope lights in the ceiling.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

If it were me, I would do the black lights if I were doing a star ceiling. Otherwise, I would go with the rope lights.....


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

Painted and installed the surround speakers yesterday. I am really having fun with this build. I just wish that I had some time to work on it more.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Nice job!

I know what you mean - I would love to do this for a living!


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## MrAngles (May 1, 2012)

Greenster said:


> Had a chance to finish painting and get the speaker columns up.
> I also picked up some crown molding that I need to stain first.
> I am debating on running black lights, or led rope lights in the ceiling.


I put in two separate outlets on separate switches so I could do both. I'm not sure how I'll put both up there behind crown molding, but at least electrically I have both options.


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

MrAngles said:


> I put in two separate outlets on separate switches so I could do both. I'm not sure how I'll put both up there behind crown molding, but at least electrically I have both options.


I think Mario has both in his. He has a picture as well. BTW I love how yours is coming together. 

I was originally going to install fiber optic stars but decided that it was going to be too much money and work. I want to have an artist paint cool space scene using black light paint. I just need to find someone to do this who has the artistic ability. Anybody know of an artist in Utah?


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

MrAngles said:


> I put in two separate outlets on separate switches so I could do both. I'm not sure how I'll put both up there behind crown molding, but at least electrically I have both options.


I think Mario installed both in his theater. He even posted pictures. BTW I love how your theater is coming together. 

I think I am going to have an artist paint a space scene on mine using black light paint. Does anyone know of an artist in Utah?


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## MrAngles (May 1, 2012)

Greenster said:


> I think Mario installed both in his theater. He even posted pictures. BTW I love how your theater is coming together.
> 
> I think I am going to have an artist paint a space scene on mine using black light paint. Does anyone know of an artist in Utah?


Thanks! Yeah Mario is who I stole the idea from. His light tray is more than just crown molding though I think. I mentioned it in my thread, but I just by serendipity met a guy with a star ceiling booth at the home and garden show here in des moines. He doesn't have a general painting business or anything like that, he just does star ceilings, so I'm not sure how I would have ever found him if I hadn't seen the booth there, I doubt he's in the yellow pages under star ceilings. 

BUT, I believe Jeff at Night Sky Murals is based out of SLC, you should check him out. I first saw his work in his thread at AVS titled "Star Ceilings... Painted or Fiber optics?"


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

MrAngles said:


> Thanks! Yeah Mario is who I stole the idea from. His light tray is more than just crown molding though I think. I mentioned it in my thread, but I just by serendipity met a guy with a star ceiling booth at the home and garden show here in des moines. He doesn't have a general painting business or anything like that, he just does star ceilings, so I'm not sure how I would have ever found him if I hadn't seen the booth there, I doubt he's in the yellow pages under star ceilings.
> 
> BUT, I believe Jeff at Night Sky Murals is based out of SLC, you should check him out. I first saw his work in his thread at AVS titled "Star Ceilings... Painted or Fiber optics?"


That is awesome. A big thank you for the heads up on Jeff.


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

I have read Home Theater’s Article ‘Acoustics 101’ http://www.hometheater.com/content/acoustics-101 and have a few questions before I make and install my absorption and diffusion panels.

The lay out of my Theater is very close to the picture below. In the article it states that a room should have 20% of the wall and ceiling surfaces covered with absorptive materials and that 20-30% of the room should be covered with scattering materials to give it good sonic balance. 
It would be very easy for me to set up my room just like this but I would like to have a very different look. 
Here is what I am thinking of doing and am wondering if there would be any negative resonance effects?

Back wall: I was thinking of installing 2" of 703 to the entire back wall and then use an additional 2" of 703 on top of it as to look like the usual wall panels. My reasoning behind doing this is to create a bass trap 4" think along the entire back wall. Also there is a bedroom on the other side of the wall that I would like to make as quiet as possible. 

Side cold storage wall: This wall has a door right in the middle of it which is off set by 4" from the room. Because of this I was thinking of stacking 4" of 703 over the door as to bring it flush to the room walls. Then on top of this an additional 2" of 703 panel as to make it look like it is just a wall. . My thinking on doing this is to create another bass trap. The front section by the screen would be just 2" of 703 as to control the first sound reflection. The rear section would be sound diffuser panel. This would be directly opposite the solid wood double doors which I am probable going to just leave. 

Side Double door wall: I was just going to use 2" 703 diffusers on the wall like a normal room. 

Front Wall: I am planning on building a front stage to house my AV unit as well as the rest of the equipment. because of this I would like to not have anything on the front wall except a non acoustical transparent 115' screen which will cover most of the wall. If needs be, I could build 12" wide corner bass traps in the corners which would be covered by side curtains and cover that wall with 2" of 703 behind the screen. 

Ceiling: Left alone as far as sound treatments go.

My concerns: Is this going to create a dead room? Can a room have too many bass traps? My room would have about 30% of Absorption panels and this would be without any ceiling absorption. Is this a bad idea? Should I create more diffuser panels or use some moldings on my columns as to make them more diffusive?


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## Tonto (Jun 30, 2007)

It's my understanding that you don't want to completely cover the back wall--it will make it too dead. But it is ok to completely cover the front wall. You need upper reflectivity from that back wall. Corner traps in the rear will be enough with rear wall panels.



> Yes the riser is full of insulation. I added the double doors. I know that they can be tricky bit it really opened my downstairs up. I want to pad them down the road.


Did you leave openings in the riser (front & back) to allow sound the enter & exit?


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

[/QDid you leave openings in the riser (front & back) to allow sound the enter & exit?[/QUOTE]

I did not leave openings in the rear riser. I did not know that I should have. I still could but my main seats will sit in front of them and cover the entire front face. The side will be open but it faces the double doors


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## Tonto (Jun 30, 2007)

The openings need to be there. I've seen people use a 4" hole saw on the front & something like HVAC vents in the back (1 for each division). I ripped a 2X6 for the front of my 10" riser which left a 4" opening all along its length. Is the carpet glued down on the riser?


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

Tonto said:


> The openings need to be there. I've seen people use a 4" hole saw on the front & something like HVAC vents in the back (1 for each division). I ripped a 2X6 for the front of my 10" riser which left a 4" opening all along its length. Is the carpet glued down on the riser?


No the carpet is not glued down. In fact it is just stapled on the front and not even kicked in yet. I could drill openings in it and would not mind doing that. It would not even show once I get my seats in there.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Not enough bass control, front wall should be dead. Extraneous diffusion over the seating that will not do much of anything. If you want to add the diffusion, use it on the rear portion of the side walls and high on the walls around the perimeter to help with slap and flutter echo.

Bryan


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

Had a chance to get some moldings stained and installed. 










I bought some wood to make the sound panels. I am undecided on what color I want to make them. Black? I found a really cool red burlap yesterday that would look cool. I found a lighter taupe fabric that would look great as well but it is lighter in color.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Greenster said:


> Had a chance to get some moldings stained and installed.
> 
> 
> View attachment 41532
> ...


Personally, I would opt for black unless you want them to stand out.


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

I had a chance to work on the theater room some more. Installed full 2" panels along the entire back wall. I plan on installing additional 2" panels over those to give me 4" of absorption on the back wall for bass. 









I built the frames for my side panels. I ordered dmd fabric in black to cover them. 










I am thinking about using the 703 on the lower 1/3 then using diffusers on the upper 1/3. I would like to know what you guys think about this.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

That should be fine.


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

Does anybody know how or what the silver material in the ceiling tray is?


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Sorry, I do not. Looks really cool though!


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Hard to tell from the smaller picture but looks to me like just rope lighting glow and they've done the interior of the tray and the bit of side wall in white or light grey to make it 'pop' more. For even more brightness, some folks line the inside and bottom of the tray with aluminum foil.

Bryan


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

I spent yesterday visiting home theater stores to listen to different speakers. My initial plan was to go with RSL's for the fronts, center and sub but I have been worried about the RSL 10" sub not having enough bass for me. I am sure that I would love the sound of their speakers in my 1400' room. I got a chance to hear the Paradigm mini monitors and thought that they sounded great. They had a 8" Paradigm in one of their rooms which had a very smooth bass and really did not bring any attention to itself BUT it really did not pressurize the room enough for me. 
The only reason I am looking at Paradigm is their PBK (perfect bass kit) Graph below









What do you guy think about me going with some $1000 Paradigm sub and RSL speakers which I have never heard? 

Or should I just go with Paradigm mini's with their sub. 

Or would an HSU VTF-15 work with the RSL's or Paradigm Mini's? 

Or what about 2 of the SVS 1000's? 

Decisions? decisions?


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Greenster said:


> I spent yesterday visiting home theater stores to listen to different speakers. My initial plan was to go with RSL's for the fronts, center and sub but I have been worried about the RSL 10" sub not having enough bass for me. I am sure that I would love the sound of their speakers in my 1400' room. I got a chance to hear the Paradigm mini monitors and thought that they sounded great. They had a 8" Paradigm in one of their rooms which had a very smooth bass and really did not bring any attention to itself BUT it really did not pressurize the room enough for me.
> The only reason I am looking at Paradigm is their PBK (perfect bass kit) Graph below
> 
> View attachment 41805
> ...


My vote would be for the two SVS subs - I am a big supporter of multiple subs. And, those reviewed really well with Jim.


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## Todd Anderson (Jul 24, 2009)

I agree with Joe. Go dual subs. The difference between 1 and 2 subs is huge. And, despite what you read, I've found one sub in a corner to make the room sound heavy on one side.

Like Joe said, those SVS subs have gotten good reviews... If your budget has an wiggle room (if you, say, push it up to 1500 or so) you'd have more powerful options. I know budgets aren't easy to just move, tho. ;-)


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

Thanks for the input. I think that I am going to start with one sub for now and add an additional sub down the road. This would mean that I would be spending around $1500 to $2000 on subs but I think I would have a better sounding room in the long run. Would it be ok to mix subwoofers? Maybe a 10" and a 15"?


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## Todd Anderson (Jul 24, 2009)

I wouldn't mix subs like that. You * might * get lucky... But at the end of the day matching subs is the way to go.
What us your sub budget?


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

Todd Anderson said:


> I wouldn't mix subs like that. You * might * get lucky... But at the end of the day matching subs is the way to go.
> What us your sub budget?


The only reason I am torn on subs is that I was looking at the RSL speakers and their subwoofer which is a 10". I have not had a chance to hear it in person. I am worried that its lack on low end bass may not be enough for me. I wish they made a 12" or 15". I guess it is already made. SVS 13 Ultra.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

No need to match the subs to the mains.

A couple of these would rock that room

http://www.rythmikaudio.com/F12.html

Bryan


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## Todd Anderson (Jul 24, 2009)

Exactly as brian says... You don't need to match your subs and mains. I would hazard to guess that most people don't!

I've gone through 4 subs to date... Each time getting just a tad more powerful. If I could do it all over again, I'd go as big as possible from the get go... With my upgrade being a matching sub sometime in the future.

I can't remember your room measurements (on my iPhone now . But it would be hard to get too much sub. If your budget is 1K, there are a TON of options out there. If I were you I would gun for that 12-15" range.


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

Had a chance to work on my room last night. 











Wrapped my panels with DMD black fabric. 




















Also ordered an SVS PB12-NSD sub.


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

Had a chance to watch the first movie in our theater, Ice Age. While the movie was sub par and I did not have a chance to calibrate anything, we still had a blast. 

I will say that the PB12-NSD was able to put out some bass. One thing besides the amount of bass was how I could not tell where the sub was in the room. I am going to calibrate it tonight and watch a better movie. 

I will also get some pictures up.


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## Tonto (Jun 30, 2007)

Congrads on the new theater, nice to hear you went with SVS. Great products that keep on giving. Keep those pics coming. What speakers did you finally get?


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

I am still running my old kenwoods. When I get the money, I think that I will get the RSL's. 

I still need theater seats as well. Just need more $$$.


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

Had a chance to create a false door for my right side panel. It turned out much better than I thought it would. 











Here is a picture of the left side. I hung this on the wall using a Velcro kit that I bought from Home Depot. It worked out great and was very easy. 











I also came across a used panasonic PT-AX100u for $300. It is only a 720p but works great for now until I can save up for the 7000u. Plus it came with a spare bulb. I calibrated it in cinema 1 mode using the suggestions here on the forum. Thanks against HTShack











I also painted my wall for now using sherwin-Williams B20 W 51 pro classic white. I plan on framing it with felt tape for now until I build my front stage. Btw I love some of yours on here. 

Notice my newest toy in the corner that I have been playing with non stop until my wife make the kids and me go to bed.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Looking good. Time to enjoy the benefits of all that work. :sweat:

Bryan


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## lcjr71 (Jan 8, 2013)

Like how the right side panel turned out. Going to do the same but on a much smaller scale for my electrical panel. Mine will be covered with acoustical panel tho. Still not sure what i will be using for the base of it.


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## crossrh (Jun 18, 2006)

Grreenster:
I posted a bunch of my REW waterfalls, and Wayne (the smartest man that ever lived) said that my 35hz resonance would take a lot of acoustic material to tame.

Correct me if I'm wrong, gentlemen, but if you install 2" deep absorptive material all around the room, you'll absorb down to only a specific frequency (and above that freq). The lower frequencies have very long wavelengths, so to absorb really low, like 35hz (where my resonance is) would take many inches. I would suggest varying the depth of the acoustic material along the back wall. Leave it at two inches in the middle, but increase it as you move towards the side walls, up to maybe eight inches at the corners, starting at two feet from the corners. This will broaden the range of freqs that are absorbed, decreasing the amplitude of the resonant freqs in the waterfall plot.

I'm sure there is a formula to tell us how deep the material needs to be to absorb a certain frequency. Look at your waterfall plots in REW, and wait for somebody much smarter than myself to help us out.

After another martini, I want to add that different freqs will require different depths of absorptive material. I'm trying to get Roxul Safe'n'Sound in Hawaii, but nobody carries it. Yes, I know it's hard to feel sorry for the guy living in Hawaii, but I've heard good things about it. I want to layer it in the corners, where I have an audible increase in bass freqs. I don't know the depth required for a 35hz resonance, but there should be a way to figure this out.


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

lcjr71 said:


> Like how the right side panel turned out. Going to do the same but on a much smaller scale for my electrical panel. Mine will be covered with acoustical panel tho. Still not sure what i will be using for the base of it.


Here is a picture of the back side of the panel for you.


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

crossrh said:


> Grreenster:
> I posted a bunch of my REW waterfalls, and Wayne (the smartest man that ever lived) said that my 35hz resonance would take a lot of acoustic material to tame.
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong, gentlemen, but if you install 2" deep absorptive material all around the room, you'll absorb down to only a specific frequency (and above that freq). The lower frequencies have very long wavelengths, so to absorb really low, like 35hz (where my resonance is) would take many inches. I would suggest varying the depth of the acoustic material along the back wall. Leave it at two inches in the middle, but increase it as you move towards the side walls, up to maybe eight inches at the corners, starting at two feet from the corners. This will broaden the range of freqs that are absorbed, decreasing the amplitude of the resonant freqs in the waterfall plot.
> ...


Wow. 
Thanks for taking the time to help me. I really appreciate it. 
As far as my rooms acoustics, I am planning on building a front stage to house my sub and front equipment. After I get that built, I am planning on deadening the front wall and building corner bass traps the entire height. 











My back wall is 2" thick of 703 covered in the gray burlap. Then on top is an additional 2" of 703 panels covered in DMD acoustic black fabric. 













I am also planning on building front panels at the first point of reflection once I get my front stage build. Right now I am just using the gray ones as a temporary panels as I am loving my new sub way too much and have slowed my build. 

Another thing I am planning on building are some diffuser panels. I want to measure the room and experiment a little bit first.


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

Had a chance to work on my HT today. Installed fabric over the rear sound panels.
I painted it again for the 3rd time. I just can't decide on the perfect color. I went darker, I think I will like it this time.

I am probably the slowest on here but I am getting it done.


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

Finished the door to my cold storage area. I still need to add moldings to the bottom. I think after I do this you will not even notice that it is there.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Greenster said:


> I am probably the slowest on here but I am getting it done.


Don't sweat it - I have seen quite a few projects in the couple of years range. Mine took about 1 3/4 years to get to where it is now - and it is not quite finished. Just keep plucking away mate!


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

Had a chance to install my led lights. They worked out awesome. I can choose any color I want, dim them or have them fade to other colors if I like. I wired them in so they are controlled by a regular light switch. 

I still want to get stars painted on the ceiling to add the feeling of open sky.


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## mpednault (Dec 20, 2012)

Great work thus far! Keep at it!

Where did you get your led rope lighting and what brand/model?


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

That turned out great - nice job mate!


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

mpednault said:


> Great work thus far! Keep at it! Where did you get your led rope lighting and what brand/model?


Hitlights.com

I picked up the 65' kit for $150


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Greenster said:


> Hitlights.com
> 
> I picked up the 65' kit for $150


Same place I got mine - fairly priced and they work great!


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

Ok so I have been neglecting my room this summer. With winter coming and my wife begging me to finish it, I have made some new additions. 

Black Friday front tv stand to hold my stuff. I picked this up from Wayfair for under $300 shipped.
I left the rear panels out of it for better ventilation and may leave the front doors off as well. 

Another upgrade is the back theater seating which I picked up used in perfect condition. 

I also managed to finish my front wall first reflection sound traps.

Next up is getting better front and center speakers. Mine are some we picked up when we got married 20+ years ago. We probably paid $350 for 5.1 speakers including the amp. and subwoofer. Most people who watch a movie with us are blown away by how good the sound is. I think the SVS PB2000 makes up for the front speakers. I am really torn between the Chane ARX's or the SVS Priemum's. Any thoughts? Anyone up for testing the two center speakers for me?


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## willis7469 (Jan 31, 2014)

Hey greenster, I'd say an upgrade is most definitely in order. (Respectfully). A beautiful screen like that needs sound to match. Haven't heard either speaker line. Just thought I'd say nice room.


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