# Need Help with room



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Hi Everyone,

I have this room I have been working with for several years now on and off, it has problems regarding the Audio, I just can seem to get a pleasing sound out of it, no matter what speakers i use or where I place then, I have tried several types of Acoustic treatments, moved the sitting position and such, but its not happening.

I hope you guys and gals can help me out with advice.

If anyone is willing to help, please let me know what info about the room you require me to post.

The basic room size is 8 ft ceiling, 10 ft wide, 13 ft long. Its got carpet on the floor, thick drape on one side wall, Acoustic foam on about 50% of the other wall, front coners have 6" thick foam bass traps floor to ceiling,
rear Wall has a thick rug covering about 50%, (it directly behind the listening area) behind the rug I have 2" acoustic foam which is also spaced 2" from the wall its self..........

speakers are front LR Diy MTM transmission line, similar to the Thor's, Center is an MTM on its side, Sub DIY peerless, 12" driver plus passive radiator, rear's are boston acoutics, X575 THX Dipoles.

Speaker have been changed over the years with the problem still remaining, so at this point i am not concerned about them.

The amps and proccesors have also changed over the years.


I am sure there will be other questions about the room that you guys will ask.

Regards Peter


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Hi Peter,

It sounds like you've done all the right treatments, except for the rear wall!
Having a thick rug on the rear wall is not a good idea and is defeating the purpose of the rear wall acoustic control..
The rug is absorbing all the mid to high frequencies, whereas they need to be reflected..particularly for the surround speakers..

The rear wall acoustic panel needs to be made up of 4" thick insulation covered with either a paper or plastic facing of some type..This covering will reflect the highs while at the same time the insulation will absorb any bass resonances..

For my rear wall acoustic panel I used 4" thick Ultratel fibreglass faced with Mylar film..I then covered the whole panel with a black open weave fabric.. and it works well..

I think you might find that will help to improve things..

BTW..From my screenwall to the rear wall is also 13' in my theatre..

Also..just reading your post again I notice that you mention having a thick drape on one wall and the other wall having foam covering 50% of it!
This is going to cause an acoustic imbalance and would also be part of your problem..

Ideally you should have acoustic panels positioned at first and second reflection points on both walls..


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

The foam isn't going to do a lot. Add in carpet on floor and one wall coupled with thin foam on one side and a large curtain on the other, you're getting way too much high frequency absorption and not near enough in the bottom end.


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Ok, so the rug on the back wall along with the foam, has to go, Bpape, you said. Way too much high frequency absorption and not near enough in the bottom end. 


Can you give me some idea of what I can do to fix this.

Peter


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Prof covered part of it. 4-6" panels on the rear wall with a facing on them like FSK or even some 6ish mil plastic to minimize higher frequency absorption but allow low and midrange control.

Side walls where possible, use something thicker - 4" is not too much by any means for side walls. 

Also, try to use a better core material. Most foam varies from 'not that great' to 'pretty much useless'.

Bryan


----------



## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Moved thread to the Acoustics forum.


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

OK, lets take it one wall at a time, You have read the size of my room in my first post, placing panel s with a reflective surface on the back wall, Wouldnt the sound from the front speakers hit that wall and bounce back to the listener?


Peter


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Some interaction between the front and the surround mid/high frequencies is necessary, otherwise you would just have sounds from the front and sounds from the back..and nothing in between..

If the high frequencies are totally absorbed at the rear, then you lose the ambiance of enveloping surround sound..
High frequency wavelengths are very short and dissipate very quickly..compared to bass frequencies..


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Thanks guys, well the week end is coming up so I will start with removing the foam and rug, By the way, I have noticed on a lot of HT rooms that on the rear wall they have the 4-6" material , as well as what looks like Perspex, curves over the front, I assume that acts as a Diffuser of the highs.

Peter


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Hi All,
Today I located a supplier of Ultratel not far from where i live. I have decided to go with the 50mm 1200 x 2400 sheets in a a pack of 3, which i believe thats how they come, I went for the Unfaced version, that way I can have the option, 
Now I need Help to work out what sizes to make and where to place them in the room, Any help would be great.

Peter


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Are you doing all treatments..ie bass traps, acoustic wall panels and rear wall panel!?


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Hi Prof,

I will be trying to do all I can to get this room working right, but I will do it section at a time, starting with the rear and side of the room.

to be perfectly honest I am not really sure what to do.

Peter


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

OK..Starting at the rear wall..I would suggest making up one panel 1200 x 1200 x 100mm. thick..If you think it's too large for your wall space, you can make it 900mm high and 1200mm wide..
Cut a sheet of plastic or Mylar the same size and bond it to the insulation..Just use a spray-on glue..It only needs to be held in place until you get it in the frame..

Make up a timber frame 100mm. deep and fit the insulation inside the frame..
Cover the face of the panel (plastic sheet uppermost) with grille cloth or an open weave material..The material will hold the insulation in the frame..

Mount the panel centred on the back wall..

That's the basics of what's needed for the rear wall..

That's the first part..Next will be the wall panels


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Hi Everyone,
I have started building my panel for the rear wall.
placing a plastic front surface on it help reflect the highs, would that work if i place a peice of perspex over the front with a slight radius so the highs can diffuse around the room, or does it have to be flat against the front of the panel.

Hope you know what I am getting at.

Peter


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

That's certainly doable. Just be careful to not allow it to resonate too much. I'd put some sort of support behind it every so often to make sure to raise any resonant frequency so it doesn't act like a big membrane at an unknown frequency.

Also understand that something more dense and rigid like that is going to seriously limit the frequency range that will be absorbed. The thinner plastic for instance cuts off around 500-1kHz. The Perspex pending thickness could cut off as low as say a couple hundred Hz or even lower.

Bryan


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Hi Guys,
Prof, with regards to the Ultratel, do I place 2 pieces inside the 100mm frame or 1 50mm piece leaving a 50 mm gap between the insulation and the wall.

Peter


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Peter,

I used 2x50mm within the frame..If you're using 110mm. wide Pine for the frame, you will also have a small space as well..
My rear wall panel fits into a window frame recess, so there's at least another 2" space behind the panel..


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Hi Prof.
Ok, which part do we do next, rear side walls opposite the listening pos. or at the first reflection point.

Regards Peter


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Peter,

I would suggest making the frames for both first and second reflection points..
it makes it a lot quicker to do it on a production line basis..

Make your frames from 90mm. wide timber..That way you'll have a 40mm. gap between the insulation and the wall, if you place the panels directly onto the wall..but it's better if you can space them off the wall a little..
If you use "French Cleats" to mount the panels, that will give you the extra spacing..
The frames need to be at least 1200 x 600mm. I made mine 1600 x 600..

Good luck with it and lets see some pics of your work..


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Hi Guys, just a quick question if i may, for the back wall panel before the ultratel goes in I will need to place some plastic sheet or paper or milar as you have done Prof. I have seen at spotlight some thin 1mm plastic sheet on a roll, I only had a quick look but it was about $7 per meter, the roll is about 1.5mtr wide, will this work ok, which brings me to another question, What exactly does this sheet between the front grill and Ultratel actually do.......

Regards Peter


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

What you're trying to accomplish is to allow lower mid and bass control while minimizing upper mid and high frequency absorption. 1mm is pretty thick for what most people use. Many just use something like 5 mil. Probably a lot less expensive than $7 per meter too.

Not saying that what you 're looking at won't work, it will just start rolling off the absorption lower in frequency. That may or may not be what you want. Need to look at the entire room and see what's up.

Bryan


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Peter,

I would advise you to get Mylar film for the reflector material..It's quite thin but has more rigidity than plastic..
It's readily available from Hydroponic stores and it's not expensive..

You place it between the Ultratel and the front covering fabric..


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Hi guys,

A quick question, I am making the frames out of 18 mm plywood, 1st is that ok to use, 2nd does it make a difference if i use a piece of 50mm x 50mm x 1200 plywood to go accross the back of the frame, to hold the sides parallel, my thinking was to add 1 piece of ultratel 50mm then the suppot beam them place 2 pieces of ultra between the support beam and the sides of the frame. the panels I am making are 1200 x 950 x 110 for the back wall and 1400 x 600 x 75 for the first and second reflection points

Peter


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

If you put a back on them, there's no benefit to spacing or straddling a corner as the plywood now acts as the bounary. If they're going to be flat on a wall it's fine.

Bryan


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Hi Guys, Sorry Bryan, I am not too good at explaining this, I have added a diagram which hopefullt will make it clear what i was thinking of doing.

Peter


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

That looks fine..The bracing piece for the panels won't affect the performance..


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Sorry. Misunderstood what you wrote the first time. That should be just fine.

Bryan


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

HI, Quick question, speaker grill cloth from Spolight, Is that going to prevent dust and partical from the Ultratel, from comming into the room...........From A health point of view.

Peter


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Probably not. If you want that to show to match other things, I would do a layer of something like a lightweight muslin underneath it. You can get that in black though it's getting harder to come by.

Bryan


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

I used a material called Polyester stretch from Spotlight...It's not quite as open weave as grill cloth and comes in a variety of colours..


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Hi Guys,
My side and rear absorbers are being built....Now what will i be doing about the side panels, where the surround speakers are going, either side of the listening position.

Peter


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

If you're referring to the second reflection point panels, they shouldn't be near the surround speakers, when they are mounted to the sides of your seating position..unless I've misunderstood what you're saying..


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Hi Prof.
At the moment my surrounds are behind me about 110 degrees, The walls on either side of the listening position, will they need to have absorbers or diffusers or just leave then , At A later date I will be wanting to place a pair of surrounds speakers on those side walls and have a pair on the rear for a 7.1 system, just trying to plan ahead.

Peter


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

You don't need to have any panels between the second reflection point and the surround speakers..
If you later decide to go to a 7.1 set up, you won't need to add any more panels, providing you have the rear wall panel installed..


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

ok thanks for that Prof. tell what exactly is the second reflection point
Peter


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

When you determine your first reflection point by moving a mirror along the wall until you see the reflection of your speaker..you continue sliding the mirror further along the wall until you see the next reflection of your front speakers,,That's your second reflection point..
Of course you need to sit in your centre chair while someone else moves the mirror along the wall..

The centre of those two reflection points is where you place the panels..


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Hi Prof.
Thanks for that, to be honest I thought the second reflection point was when the sound bounced off the first ref. point, past the listener and hit the wall behind....lol, I think i need to read up a little more.

Peter :T


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Hi All,
I am going to have 1 sheet of Ultratel left after i do all the panels I was thinking to make one extra 1200 x 600, and place it on the ceiling directly above my main speakers, what effect will that have......or should i place it at the reflection point on the ceiling, which will place it further towards the centre of the room.

Regards Peter


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

1 panel isn't really going to cover the reflections nor be large enough to do much over your head. If you want to optimize for one seat, you could cut it and make 2 600x600 panels for L and R reflections to a single chair.

Bryan


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

what about as a bass trap in the front part of the ceiling


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

You can try it but 2" isn't going to do much for bass control.

Bryan


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Hi, Every one,
Ok, I have installed the absorber panels into my HT room, Recap: One 1200 x 1000 x 4" Ultratel with a 4mil liner in front, 4" off the back wall, 4 x panels 1500 x 600 Ultratel 50mm for first reflection and second reflection points on both side walls. 

The front wall has floor to ceiling bass traps, 150mm thick about 600 wide, above and below the screen i have 75mm acoustic bats.

Now for the ceiling at the first refection point I have 3 600 x 600 panels which are flocked but are only about 10 mm thick, obviously will only stop high frequencies, will I need to cover this part of the room with 50mm ultra and a 50mm gap or wont it have much of an efect being on the ceiling.

on each side of the listening position, there is nothing at the moment, I am looking at placing some sort of diffusers there once i work out what to use.

this morning i did a few test with some dvd's, the front sound stage is still a little jumbled, not as clear as i was expecting.........need a little help here.

Peter


----------



## mbastami (Jul 1, 2011)

loupy31 said:


> Hi, Every one,
> Ok, I have installed the absorber panels into my HT room, Recap: One 1200 x 1000 x 4" Ultratel with a 4mil liner in front, 4" off the back wall, 4 x panels 1500 x 600 Ultratel 50mm for first reflection and second reflection points on both side walls.
> 
> The front wall has floor to ceiling bass traps, 150mm thick about 600 wide, above and below the screen i have 75mm acoustic bats.
> ...


The mirror trick will help...

The Mirror Test

The mirror trick works as follows: The listener is successively seated in each location of the room deemed to be a likely position for a listener. At each location, the listener observes a second participant move a mirror along the ceiling and walls of the room as well as any other suspect hard surfaces. When a loudspeaker can be seen in the mirror, the mirror is in a spot where sound waves can reflect from the surface to the listening position. These locations require absorption. After the placement of each absorber, an ETF impulse response measurement should be taken to verify the correct position of the absorber and to verify that the absorber is actually reducing the level of the reflection. If the absorber is not necessary, it should be removed.


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

mbastami said:


> The mirror trick will help...
> 
> The Mirror Test
> 
> The mirror trick works as follows: The listener is successively seated in each location of the room deemed to be a likely position for a listener. At each location, the listener observes a second participant move a mirror along the ceiling and walls of the room as well as any other suspect hard surfaces. When a loudspeaker can be seen in the mirror, the mirror is in a spot where sound waves can reflect from the surface to the listening position. These locations require absorption. After the placement of each absorber, an ETF impulse response measurement should be taken to verify the correct position of the absorber and to verify that the absorber is actually reducing the level of the reflection. If the absorber is not necessary, it should be removed.


Hi, and thx for your post,
The side wall absorbers are placed as per the "mirror test" first and second reflection points

Peter


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Sounds like you still need more and deeper bass control and maybe you need to tweak the speaker positions a bit if imaging is suffering.

Bryan


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Peter..You mention that you have 75mm batts above and below the screen! How big are these batts and where exactly are they positioned?


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Prof. said:


> Peter..You mention that you have 75mm batts above and below the screen! How big are these batts and where exactly are they positioned?


Hi Prof. They cover it fully, More info, they are 600 x 600 and cover the front wall with the exception of the screen


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Hi, Guys,
I will try and draw up a plan of my room and post it here, hopefully it will make it easier to see if I need to alter anything.

Peter


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

My Room At the moment

update, in the diagram it shows the back Absorber is 100 x 1200, It should read 1000 x 1200


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

It all looks pretty much standard acoustic treatment, with the exception of the 75mm.batts..
I would try it without those batts and see if that helps at all..

Also I would suggest that you move the rear surrounds from the corners and place them on the side walls opposite the chairs..particularly if they're dipoles..


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Thanks, Prof.
You once told me your room was similar to mine in size, what suround speakers do you use?, and what about diffusion, any thoughts on that.

One Question I have been wanting to ask, regarding the back wall absorber, because of the mylar film in front of the Ultratel, doesnt that effect the front speakers, I ask because its reflection of the front speakers .


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

I'm using DIY Krix tripoles for my surrounds..They are positioned opposite my seating position..
I don't have any diffusers in my room and it's one aspect of acoustic control that I've never looked into..

The Mylar film reflects highs from the surrounds to give an airy feeling to the sound..
Where you have your surrounds now, you're not getting any benefit from the rear panel..
The highs from the fronts won't be affected by the rear panel due mainly to the very short wavelengths..


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Thanks Prof,
Your help along the way has been very much appreciated.
you said you had DIY Tripoles, Krix.............any chance I could get more info on those as I am looking to build a set, but havent found anything on line.


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Glad to have helped..

My Krix tripoles started out as a pair of Krix Brix..I made two boxes consisting of three sections in each..
The centre section was made to the same size and shape as the Brix cabinet and all the components were transferred to the new section..
Then I added two angled faced boxes (one each side of the centre box) in which I fitted coaxial mid/high speakers..The coaxial's are completely isolated from the bass driver
i removed the original crossover units and replaced them with a 3 way 12dB./octave crossover..

I hope I've explained that clearly enough!..I made these speakers over 10 years ago and I don't have any drawings to show you..If you want more details, I'll have to sketch it up..


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Actually if you click on "My Photos" and scroll down to my earlier room photos, No.273 shows one of the surrounds..


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Hi all,
Ok, I have made and installed my absorbers, as per my floor plan, I have 1 sheet 1200 x 2400 of ultratel left, how can i utilize it , do i use it to make an absorber for the middle of the roof or is there some more effective use.....
Regards Peter


----------



## Todd Anderson (Jul 24, 2009)

Hey,

Just out of curiosity, how close is your couch to the rear wall?

T


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

hi, its 700mm front rear wall,


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

.


----------



## Todd Anderson (Jul 24, 2009)

That's pretty close to your back wall... check this link out:

http://www.gearslutz.com/board/bass...diy-bass-traps-diy-made-up-slat-diffuser.html

It's a build thread that I wrote and posted on gearslutz. My seating is also close to my back wall. I ended up, with help, building this modified slat diffuser. It has had an amazing impact on the sound in my room. My only regret is that I didn't make it large enough cover my entire rear wall (it's shortened because of corner bass traps with facing). Ideally, I would have put insulation in the corners behind the slat diffuser. Anyhow, seating as close to the wall (as you have) isn't ideal and you definitely can't pull off a real slat diffuser. The guy that helped me had some great ideas --- it added diffusion and absorption in the rear of my room....


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Hi 27 D

Thanks for the reply, I read the other post at the link you gave me, couldnt find anything relating to distance from back wall , not sure what you are getting at.

Peter


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

loupy31 said:


> Hi all,
> Ok, I have made and installed my absorbers, as per my floor plan, I have 1 sheet 1200 x 2400 of ultratel left, how can i utilize it , do i use it to make an absorber for the middle of the roof or is there some more effective use.....


I wouldn't do anything with the left over sheet at this stage..When the room is completed and you've calibrated the audio, then you might find that it will be needed somewhere..



loupy31 said:


> hi, its 700mm front rear wall,


That's a suitable distance from the rear wall..


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Thanks Prof,
I will try to get some pics and post them.

Cheers Peter


----------



## Todd Anderson (Jul 24, 2009)

I guess I misunderstood... thought you had installed some treatments and still weren't satisfied. I was only trying to point out another way you could try to skin this cat.


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

27dnast said:


> I guess I misunderstood... thought you had installed some treatments and still weren't satisfied. I was only trying to point out another way you could try to skin this cat.


I hope I wasnt being nasty 

It wasnt my intention.

Peter


----------



## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

27dnast said:


> That's pretty close to your back wall... check this link out:
> 
> http://www.gearslutz.com/board/bass...diy-bass-traps-diy-made-up-slat-diffuser.html
> 
> It's a build thread that I wrote and posted on gearslutz. My seating is also close to my back wall. I ended up, with help, building this modified slat diffuser. It has had an amazing impact on the sound in my room. My only regret is that I didn't make it large enough cover my entire rear wall (it's shortened because of corner bass traps with facing). Ideally, I would have put insulation in the corners behind the slat diffuser. Anyhow, seating as close to the wall (as you have) isn't ideal and you definitely can't pull off a real slat diffuser. The guy that helped me had some great ideas --- it added diffusion and absorption in the rear of my room....


Never seen diffusers built quite that way (with traps integrated into them)... I like it! Why do you have the circles cutout in the sides?


----------



## Todd Anderson (Jul 24, 2009)

This acoustic expert helped me with that slat diffuser with absorption. The idea being: diffusion is ideal for your rear wall, but you can't sit within about 4 feet of diffusion or some funky stuff can happen (layman's terms). - check out Ethan Winer's video on diffusion at real traps... It gives good examples of diffusion and what happens as you get close to them. So, we created something that would incorporate binary diffusion characteristics to help keep the alive )with out introducing acoustic issues) and absorption to make make it possible to sit closer to... You can read my impressions in the thread on the link... But the results were over the top amazing. It opened up my sound stage and breathed amazing life into my center channel.

That's really the reason I was asking how close the couch was to the back wall. The proximity to a flat reflective surface that is pushing certain frequencies right back into the room (even if it's simply absorption faced with fsk) might be doing some harm on the overall experience. I'm not an expert, by far, but just thought I'd toss another idea out there for how the OP could tackle his room.

As for the corner bass traps, the circles were put into the frame simply to allow as much sound into the trap as possible as it is angled in room corners. I'm sure there are more efficient designs that leave the sides completely open, but I wanted wood frames and this is a design I thought would have a nice look to it.


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Ok, My L&R mains have good imaging, when I switch between 2 channel stero and surround, the center image closes up and the sound stage colapses in the middle, switch back to 2 channel, and it is good again,
I am asuming there is some reflection isue with the center speaker, off the side walls, maybe the rear wall absorber with the 4mil mylar, not sure where to start on this one, dont want to lose ambiance.

Peter


----------



## Todd Anderson (Jul 24, 2009)

Sounds similar to what I was experiencing with my center. It sounded small... very directional... and nasally. Unpleasant at times. It's hard for me to pinpoint what effect each acoustic treatment had on my overall experience (front absorption, bass traps, first reflection point treatments, and rear diffusion/absorption) because I added them all at once, but I'm assuming that the front wall absorption in addition to the rear diffusion had a huge effect on the center channel. The center channel has completely opened up... it has gained great clarity and depth... the nasal sound is gone... and the image of the sound is no longer localized and has risen up and gotten much wider--- really has the appearance of coming from the screen. My assumption is that the dispersion/absorption on the front and back walls has allowed that to happen.

My approach was less scientific and more aided by help by some experts... wish I could give you more... Perhaps you could get some materials that you could temporarily use on your rear wall (is the entire rear wall absorption?) to create a temporary diffusion set-up (maybe buy, then return, 2x4's)?


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Peter...It may be more of a Receiver EQ problem..

Your room is about the same size as mine (yours slightly shorter) and unless the construction is totally different, then It should behave in a similar manner..

With my Pioneer MCACC EQ calibration, it took a lot of experimenting before I was able to get a good projection of sound from the centre channel..
I don't use a stereo setup, but I've read that many people use different settings for 2ch. & multi-channel
Which Receiver are you using?


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

Hi Prof.
I am currently using a Emotiva UMC-1, (soon to be a XMC-1),


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

I'm not personally familiar with Emotiva's, but I see in the specs. that it has an 11 band EQ and calibrates similarly to the Pio..
I'm presuming that You've calibrated sound levels with an SPL meter and set all channels to 75dB.
Have you tried adjusting individual frequencies (particularly centre channel levels) in the EQ?


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

I did an eq on the whole system before i treated the room, I asume once a room is treated things will change , with regards to speaker eq's as well


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Absolutely!!..Any calibration you did on the room prior to room treatments will totally change when you re-calibrate!
So are you saying you've done these sound checks on the original calibration!?


----------



## loupy31 (Apr 26, 2006)

the sound checks were done after I installed the rear absorber, and before the first and second reflection treatments


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

You really need to finish installing all your treatments first and then do a complete re-calibration..
Then you will be able to make any changes necessary to increase individual frequencies or levels..
Also bare in mind that AVR EQ calibration devices are notoriously inaccurate in levels and delays that they set..
Does the Emotiva have an adjustment for room reverberation delays?


----------

