# Speaker layout, bi-wiring?



## TomFord (Jul 15, 2014)

Started on my HT almost 2 months ago, learned a lot yet still a ways to go. The car audio experience/knowledge I've been gaining since I could drive just doesn't apply or exist in many aspects.
Started with Pioneer AJ line, which such a great value it's hard to believe
Upgraded to the KEF Q700 (awesome) & just got the Q600 center in. After a few AVR it's the Onkyo TX-NR838. 
KEF's are rated to 150 although KEF rep 10-20 watts more is where they're least likely to any damage. AVR is 130 per channel so didn't seem like an option connecting to the HF & LF terminal on them. Wondered if 2 wires out of the same terminal would reduce the 130 to 65 on each wire? Don't believe it's that simple. 
Which way do you suggest on bi-wiring possibly bi-amping? Another amp? Have two of the small Lepai 20 watt amps but afraid to use such a cheap amp on them

NXG BAS 500 sub, 4 Pioneer bookshelf, 2 Pioneer center channel are my other speakers
How would you run the 7.2 or 9.2 channels? Believe I can use zone 2 & have it play same audio as zone 1. 2 height, 2 rear, 2 wide? 

Really appreciate any advice gentlemen


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## gazoink (Apr 17, 2013)

TomFord said:


> Started on my HT almost 2 months ago, learned a lot yet still a ways to go. The car audio experience/knowledge I've been gaining since I could drive just doesn't apply or exist in many aspects.
> Started with Pioneer AJ line, which such a great value it's hard to believe
> Upgraded to the KEF Q700 (awesome) & just got the Q600 center in. After a few AVR it's the Onkyo TX-NR838.
> KEF's are rated to 150 although KEF rep 10-20 watts more is where they're least likely to any damage. AVR is 130 per channel so didn't seem like an option connecting to the HF & LF terminal on them. Wondered if 2 wires out of the same terminal would reduce the 130 to 65 on each wire? Don't believe it's that simple.


Two wires to the same terminal accomplishes nothing except using more wire.


TomFord said:


> Which way do you suggest on bi-wiring


 I never suggest bi-wiring, it doesn't do anything.


TomFord said:


> possibly bi-amping? Another amp? Have two of the small Lepai 20 watt amps but afraid to use such a cheap amp on them.


Yes, you do need another amp to bi-amp, but the Lepai is of no use, don't bother. It's best suited to power desktop speakers, and you don't get 20 clean watts, not even close.


TomFord said:


> NXG BAS 500 sub, 4 Pioneer bookshelf, 2 Pioneer center channel are my other speakers
> How would you run the 7.2 or 9.2 channels?


 Experiment. Not much point to 9.2 unless you're doing Atmos, but that would definitely be worth playing with if you can get some speakers high in front and back. 


TomFord said:


> Believe I can use zone 2 & have it play same audio as zone 1. 2 height, 2 rear, 2 wide?


Depends on the AVR, but there are often some limits to what you can play to Zone 2. Your manual should tell the story.


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## jaguar717 (Sep 8, 2014)

Your receiver's or amp's rating doesn't need to match your speaker. The speaker power rating is pretty arbitrary, and not a hard limit where you'll blow the speaker once you pass it. In fact, it's much more likely you'll blow a speaker from too little power, because when you crank the volume, the amp will clip and distort, and that'll damage your drivers.

You won't do much listening at 130 watts, as that's incredibly loud, so as long as you can get as loud as you want without distorting, your speakers are safe. Sure running extra speaker cables will divide the current on the cables themselves, but it's all still going to the same speaker.


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## GCG (Aug 22, 2013)

Based on the full user's manual on the Onkyo site:

http://filedepot.onkyousa.com/Files/own_manuals/TX-NR838_ADV_En_29401768_140519.pdf

Page 49 states you can bi-amp using the front height speaker outs but it restricts you to a 5.1 system. However most would say it's not worth the trouble and you'd probably enjoy the improvement from going to a 7.1 system (w/ front height speakers) more.

Read carefully before you bi-amp. If you don't remove the terminal jumpers or try to bi-amp speakers not designed for that you'll let the magic smoke out of your AVR and it won't talk to you anymore.

GCG


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## gazoink (Apr 17, 2013)

GCG said:


> Based on the full user's manual on the Onkyo site:
> 
> http://filedepot.onkyousa.com/Files/own_manuals/TX-NR838_ADV_En_29401768_140519.pdf
> 
> ...


The difference between 5.1 and 7.1 is audible to most listeners. The difference between single and bi wiring isn't audible to anyone, the difference is entirely psychological.


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## GCG (Aug 22, 2013)

gazoink said:


> The difference between 5.1 and 7.1 is audible to most listeners. The difference between single and bi wiring isn't audible to anyone, the difference is entirely psychological.


Bi-wiring yes. I wouldn't say anyone for bi-amping. Sonar techs for instance have such well trained hearing that details that are inaudible to you or me or most everyone else can drive them to distraction.


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## gazoink (Apr 17, 2013)

GCG said:


> Bi-wiring yes. I wouldn't say anyone for bi-amping. Sonar techs for instance have such well trained hearing that details that are inaudible to you or me or most everyone else can drive them to distraction.


Ok, I'll modify: The difference between single and bi wiring is inaudible to almost everyone, the difference is almost entirely psychological.

I'd still opt for the choice most people can actually hear.


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## GCG (Aug 22, 2013)

I agree there. The benefits of a 7.1 over a 5.1 WAY outweigh bi-amping. I just wanted the OP to know he had the bi-amp option native in his AVR.


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## willis7469 (Jan 31, 2014)

+1.1


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## TomFord (Jul 15, 2014)

Thanks Gentlemen. Yes, I read I could bi-amp on this AVR, but it seemed like too much power at 260 watts (230-240 continous with all channels being driven. 
Have the height & rear surrond connected now yet the THX Dolby Neo 6 sounds a little better to me than the THX Dolby Height Plxy. Going to try the wide channels & see how those are. 
Goal is Dolby atmos. Finally saw KEF releasing the R50 which looks like the best Atmos enabled add on by far. Was trying to avoid putting any in the ceiling, yet appears I'm going to have to put in 2 minimum

Thanks guys


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