# laying riser on carpet



## eurovw89 (Feb 25, 2010)

I am building a riser for my rear seats. My basement floor is a concrete slap, padding then carpet. This is a townhouse and moving in the future. Was wondering what I could put between the riser and carpet, so after time the "whole" outline etc...isn't indented into the carpet

Thanks,
Jeff


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## Mike Edwards (Mar 10, 2011)

eurovw89 said:


> I am building a riser for my rear seats. My basement floor is a concrete slap, padding then carpet. This is a townhouse and moving in the future. Was wondering what I could put between the riser and carpet, so after time the "whole" outline etc...isn't indented into the carpet
> 
> Thanks,
> Jeff


in my experience you can minimize it with a thick foam ...but you won't be able to eliminate it completely... think of that plasticy shipping styrofoam type substance... kind of like really thick plastic acoustec foam... works really well.


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## Tonto (Jun 30, 2007)

I would just pull in up & relay it over the riser. Leave the fromt open to allow the LF's to enter (stuff with fluffy, pink). You can add a piece on to reach the rear wall & remove it when you remove the riser. Then just relay the carpet & your out! Easy-peasy.

You may want to use some isolation clips to seperate the riser from the floor, hint, hint :whistling:


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## eurovw89 (Feb 25, 2010)

Tonto said:


> I would just pull in up & relay it over the riser. Leave the fromt open to allow the LF's to enter (stuff with fluffy, pink). You can add a piece on to reach the rear wall & remove it when you remove the riser. Then just relay the carpet & your out! Easy-peasy.
> 
> You may want to use some isolation clips to seperate the riser from the floor, hint, hint :whistling:


i cant cut the carpet out, cuz we are looking to move in the next few years. just wondering what I could use for "legs" to keep the whole frame work off the carpet


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

eurovw89 said:


> i cant cut the carpet out, cuz we are looking to move in the next few years. just wondering what I could use for "legs" to keep the whole frame work off the carpet


You could make yourself some little spiked feet... With spiked feet you would have no marks (other than a little puncture in the carpet, which if that bothers you... Get some pennies and put under each point .) at all when you move. You can make spiked feed out of 1/4" machine thread screws, grind a point on them or just leave them that way, and buy the part that goes into the wood at a hardware store. I would put them every 16" or so to even out the load of the platform... Even in the center of the platform.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

ellisr63 said:


> You could make yourself some little spiked feet... With spiked feet you would have no marks (other than a little puncture in the carpet, which if that bothers you... Get some pennies and put under each point .) at all when you move. You can make spiked feed out of 1/4" machine thread screws, grind a point on them or just leave them that way, and buy the part that goes into the wood at a hardware store. I would put them every 16" or so to even out the load of the platform... Even in the center of the platform.


Great idea Ron - this is the way I would go...


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## eurovw89 (Feb 25, 2010)

ellisr63 said:


> You could make yourself some little spiked feet... With spiked feet you would have no marks (other than a little puncture in the carpet, which if that bothers you... Get some pennies and put under each point .) at all when you move. You can make spiked feed out of 1/4" machine thread screws, grind a point on them or just leave them that way, and buy the part that goes into the wood at a hardware store. I would put them every 16" or so to even out the load of the platform... Even in the center of the platform.



i like this idea, sounds perfect...but my riser is 7 foot x 5 foot ad it would take a TON to makes. plus from the riser being so heavy.......wouldnt all the weight of the riser make screw sink into the soft wood?


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

eurovw89 said:


> i like this idea, sounds perfect...but my riser is 7 foot x 5 foot ad it would take a TON to makes. plus from the riser being so heavy.......wouldnt all the weight of the riser make screw sink into the soft wood?


Use 1/4 20 studs and put a penny under them... Don't even grind a point. The more of the legs you use the more the load is spread out and the less likely it is to dig into the floor.


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## tcarcio (Jun 27, 2007)

It might sound dumb but I used and are still useing hockey pucks for my riser.


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## eurovw89 (Feb 25, 2010)

I saw these at the depot. they are made of hard plastic and can cut them anyway you like.



I was going to cut them into 1 1/2" and get small wood screws and screw them into the bottom of the 2 x 6's every 16in. any thoughts or has anyone seen it done?


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

eurovw89 said:


> I saw these at the depot. they are made of hard plastic and can cut them anyway you like.
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to cut them into 1 1/2" and get small wood screws and screw them into the bottom of the 2 x 6's every 16in. any thoughts or has anyone seen it done?


Are they tall enough to clear the carpet? Will they hold the weight without crushing?


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## eurovw89 (Feb 25, 2010)

ellisr63 said:


> Are they tall enough to clear the carpet? Will they hold the weight without crushing?


they are 3/4 tall


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## Mike Edwards (Mar 10, 2011)

eurovw89 said:


> they are 3/4 tall


That should work


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

eurovw89 said:


> they are 3/4 tall


Have you tried standing on one to see what happens? I'm thinking if it strong enough to hold a persons full weight it might be ok, but I don't guarantee it... Where if you use a 1/4 20 threaded bolt I know it isn't going anywhere. :T If you go the bolt route just get the threaded inserts and put them in the wood and then screw in some 1/4" bolts. You might want to get a nut or two to use as a spacer so the full weight of the wood is not still on the carpet... It doesn't mean it can't be touching just not crushed like the full weight would be). I think you would be fine this way, and it won't cost much to do either. :T I am lucky in that we are using power recliners, and they have a metal frame that I can attach to the floor once I drill the holes.


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## eurovw89 (Feb 25, 2010)

ellisr63 said:


> Have you tried standing on one to see what happens? I'm thinking if it strong enough to hold a persons full weight it might be ok, but I don't guarantee it... Where if you use a 1/4 20 threaded bolt I know it isn't going anywhere. :T If you go the bolt route just get the threaded inserts and put them in the wood and then screw in some 1/4" bolts. You might want to get a nut or two to use as a spacer so the full weight of the wood is not still on the carpet... It doesn't mean it can't be touching just not crushed like the full weight would be). I think you would be fine this way, and it won't cost much to do either. :T I am lucky in that we are using power recliners, and they have a metal frame that I can attach to the floor once I drill the holes.


I like the bolt idea, but really cant picture it. Wouldn't the 1/4-20 spacer just "dig in" and sink into the wood since the wood is soft


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Maybe this will be easier to understand... You buy the 1/4 20 thread inserts for the wood, install them in the bottom of the wood. Then you get a 1/4 20 bolt, and put 1 or 2 nuts on it (for spacing), and screw them into the thread inserts and you are done. Better yet... Just get a 1/4 20 bolt that is not threaded (down the shank) all the way, and the shank of the bolt becomes your spacer. :T

Does this make more sense? :T


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## eurovw89 (Feb 25, 2010)

Here are some pictures and finished product without the carpet....calling the carpet guy tomorrow. those plastic feet worked perfect....the rise just barely touches the carpet.



I put a piece of 3/4 x 3/4 as a lip to "hide" the rope lighting





here with the lights installed







thank you everyone for your help and input. As soon as it gets carpeted I will post more pics.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Looks great! Did you fasten the couch down to make sure it can't fall over?


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## eurovw89 (Feb 25, 2010)

ellisr63 said:


> Looks great! Did you fasten the couch down to make sure it can't fall over?


im waiting til its carpeted. On the side of the legs I am going to attack and "L" bracket....screw it to the leg and platform.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

eurovw89 said:


> im waiting til its carpeted. On the side of the legs I am going to attack and "L" bracket....screw it to the leg and platform.


Sounds good... Let us know how it works out. :T


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## eurovw89 (Feb 25, 2010)

here is the finished product


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Looks great! How did you do your lighting?


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## eurovw89 (Feb 25, 2010)

ellisr63 said:


> Looks great! How did you do your lighting?


i used the homedepot brand rope lighting....it is incandescent not L.E.D. I made a 2in over hang then made a 2in lip


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

eurovw89 said:


> i used the homedepot brand rope lighting....it is incandescent not L.E.D. I made a 2in over hang then made a 2in lip


Thanks, for the info. Well how do you like it? Is it up to your expectations? Is it stable? Anything you would change if you were to re do it? :T


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## eurovw89 (Feb 25, 2010)

ellisr63 said:


> Thanks, for the info. Well how do you like it? Is it up to your expectations? Is it stable? Anything you would change if you were to re do it? :T


Hard to believe but no I wouldn't change anything, and she is sturdy


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

eurovw89 said:


> Hard to believe but no I wouldn't change anything, and she is sturdy


Glad to hear it worked out for you. :T:T


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