# Diamante Build in DC



## RossoDiamante (Aug 12, 2013)

I have been thinking about a home theater in my basement for a couple of years now. I finally got around to starting to build a space out this spring. I'm now at the "finishing" stage and am stuck. I have browsed a lot of build threads and seen quite a few pictures.

This is the space as it currently stands.

 

 

 

I have gotten a few carpet samples and some GOM fabric samples. I'm thinking of black fabric along the screen wall and for a foot or two along the side walls. Fabric would continue along the angled walls onto the side walls and then back to the area separating the lobby from the theater. I am planning on two colors of fabric on the walls. The bottom part will be black and the top part will be a color complementary to the carpet. The design twist here is that the separation between the two will not be a linear chair rail, but a free-form curve like a wave. Beyond that would be painted drywall. I'm thinking of a black fabric for the little curved bulkhead above the screen but then paint for the "ceiling" part of the bulkheads. I assumed that they would be painted a flat black, but now wonder whether they would look best in the second wall fabric color. The area inside the bulkhead in the theater will house a fiberoptic starfield ceiling.

I have been researching the Fabricmate track system and wonder whether that is a good product to use for this application as a do-it-yourselfer. Alternatively, if I hired the job out, is this an efficient system for a pro to use?

Looking forward to painting in the next week or so and then the fabric walls and starfield ceiling can go in.


----------



## bamabum (Dec 7, 2012)

I used the fabric mate system. Check my blog for my thoughts. 

http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...struction/63786-bamabum-theatre-build-18.html

Its good but has challenges. Definitely order the high end roller to press the fabric in. Also note that mounted against drywall will be a challenge. I would ask them on the phone how to mount and not pull off the drywall when the fabric stretches tight. I had it pulling out tough staples out of wood. Also it shipped warped. I consider it expensive for the quality and application but everyone has their own experience.

Check out some other blogs on people who mounted track on drywall. 

Look at 

http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...cinemar-home-theater-construction-thread.html

As for color scheme, color it in pain.net, Photoshop or something so others can understand what your saying. They can then give advice.

I have seen several just use staples to mount the fabric and cover the seam of two meeting fabrics with a wood chair rail molding. 

Are you putting acoustic foam or something behind it? this will make a difference. 

Whats the free form wave? Can you draw it or upload a diagram?


----------



## RossoDiamante (Aug 12, 2013)

I will try to figure out how to diagram and upload my design thoughts.

When I spoke with the Fabricmate people, there was no mention of any problem mounting to drywall. I was a but surprised to hear, however, that they recommended staples every couple of inches along the track! Did you use that many fasteners. I will definitely check out your posting. 

Thanks.


----------



## RossoDiamante (Aug 12, 2013)

I got started on an acoustics tangent on another thread but didn't want to hijack the original poster's thought process but I did want to solicit suggestions and opinions on acoustics in this room.

Obviously, the measure first, treat second rule applies and I will certainly get there. But as far as general approaches or apparent pitfalls....

Pertinent dimensions include:

room width = about 18'
screen wall width = about 12.5'
distance screen wall to prime row of seating = about 12.5'
ceiling height in theater = about 8.5'
ceiling height in lobby = about 7'
distance prime row of seating to back wall in lobby = about 17'
max width in lobby = about 18'
min width in lobby = about 8'


----------



## RossoDiamante (Aug 12, 2013)

My initial plan:

Use the space behind the baffle wall in the front of the theater as a bass trap with as much pink fluffy as can reasonably be put back there.

Construct baffle wall with 2 layers of 1/2" drywall with green glue and cover with 2 layers of 1 Linacoustic with plastic sheeting in between.

Screen wall with acoustically transparent screen and GOM AT fabric.

1" Fabric track along side walls with some amount of 1" Linacoustic behind it (here is where you start to chime in with suggestions....)

Fabric wall going to the transition wall between the and the lobby.

Drywall in the lobby.

Flooring is carpet on an 8# pad.

Ceiling in the theater bulkhead will have starfield ceiling which is a bunch of MDF panels with fabric covering.

Small curved bulkhead over screen to be covered in fabric with 1" Linacoustic behind.

3 in-wall LCR speakers in the baffle wall.

2 JTR Captivator subs, floor mounted, flanking center channel.

2 side surround speakers, in -wall, 6-12" behind first row seating.

2 rear surround speakers, ceiling mounted, 8 ft. behind first row seating.


----------



## RossoDiamante (Aug 12, 2013)

After yet another week out of town, I'm back in town until this basement is finished. 

Time to build the front stage.

First, need to take this:

  

and make some speaker enclosures for my L/C/R speakers. This is some MDF that I had from some shelving that was dismantled when I took apart the rest of my basement in preparation for its makeover. The speakers I am using are actually in-wall speakers so they need to be built into a wall. Typically they rely on the wall cavity between studs to give it is sealed volume. But since I was planning a baffle wall and also wanting to use the "extra" space behind my screen/speaker walls as bass-trapping, I was not going to have a traditionally framed wall to put these in. So I deiced that the best thing to do is make some boxes. I think MDF is nice because it seems pretty inert and stiff. At 3/4", it is also pretty heavy, though. So I'm still trying to figure out how to mount it to the baffle wall in a secure, yet decoupled fashion. But first they had to be built.

I first figured out the dimensions required into order to get the recommended 2.2 cu. ft. of volume and decided on 48" x 7.5" x 10.75". I cut my pieces:

  

This stuff is nasty while cutting. Fine dust particles everywhere! Going to leave me with quite a clean up project.

A bit of glue and and bunch of screws later, and I have my first box completed. I'll try to get the other two done today and then think about tackling the baffle wall. The one good thing about these boxes is that nobody will ever see them and they can be more functional than aesthetic.


----------



## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

If you're using inwall speakers (which are designed to work in a shallow space) Wouldn't you make the boxes shallower and wider..to simulate a cavity space?..They appear to be 10" deep in the photos..


----------



## RossoDiamante (Aug 12, 2013)

Regarding the shape of the cavity into which the speakers fit, for the simple purpose of supporting the woofers the shape is irrelevant. Only the volume matters. As long as the volume of sealed space behind the speaker is as prescribed, the speaker will function the same. That's not to say that a lot of time, money, and effort isn't spent on designing speaker cabinets -- just pick up any speaker brochure from any high-end speaker manufacturer and you are sure to see how their design (whether referencing the materials, the shape, the bracing, the construction, etc.) results in a better sounding speaker -- but for the speaker itself to function well only the volume matters.

And you are spot on. The interior of the cabinet is 10.75" deep.


----------



## RossoDiamante (Aug 12, 2013)

As an addendum, I designed a narrow speaker enclosure because of the 2 subwoofers I am going to fit in the front stage area. Each woofer is 20" wide. I also wanted to have some latitude to adjust the mounting "depth" of the speaker to account for the 2 layers of drywall and the 2 layers of Linacoustic that wall be on the baffle wall framing. I still haven't figured out how to mount them securely and decoupled.


----------



## RossoDiamante (Aug 12, 2013)

Some more progress recently.

Finished preparing the stage with holes in the shell to prevent the stage from resonating like a drum. Then stuffed with fluffy pink insulation and covered with 2 layers and glue green in between:

   

And I've started building my baffle wall. The left side is up. The speakers are mounted rigidly and resiliently with IB3 clips:


----------



## Owen Bartley (Oct 18, 2006)

Cool (and creative) implementation of your in-wall speaker enclosures. Clearly you have put some serious thought into this, with the insulation and the IB3 clips, and I'm sure it will all pay off in the end.


----------



## RossoDiamante (Aug 12, 2013)

Thanks. I'm aiming for being able to fire up the speakers this weekend.

I'm also working on figuring out the colors for the theater. I like the bright red accent but also see the value of a more conservative color palatte with the proviso that I add a splash of color into this otherwise very dark room with furniture and/or accessories.


----------



## Peter Loeser (Aug 11, 2012)

I like this combo


----------



## RossoDiamante (Aug 12, 2013)

You have the same taste as my daughter, but probably not for the same reason. She likes the burgundy because it is like maroon, and that reminds her of Maroon 5 and her infatuation with Adam Levine!


----------



## Peter Loeser (Aug 11, 2012)

Talented guy for sure, but I doubt I could match your daughter's level of adoration!

Funny how differently guys and girls work through decision making. I would have never made a connection between a vocal artist and a piece of cloth. Although I can think of a few who have about as much talent as a piece of cloth... lddude:

I see a shade of purple in one of your photos. I personally think a black/grey/purple combo would look great in a theater environment, and would be somewhat unique considering the use of red is pretty popular. Is this where I make a reference to Prince as my reason for liking the purple? :bigsmile:


----------



## RossoDiamante (Aug 12, 2013)

Only if it is raining in your neck of the woods like it is here....


----------



## Dale Rasco (Apr 11, 2009)

Can't wait to see the end results!! Looking great so far!


----------



## RossoDiamante (Aug 12, 2013)

L/C/R speaker enclosures mounted. I may achieve my goal of firing up some music this weekend and measuring the room "in the buff". My subwoofer Speakon connectors should be arrive today. And my fiberoptic star ceiling is shipping today or tomorrow! So many moving parts!


----------



## RossoDiamante (Aug 12, 2013)

I've made a lot of progress including some initial measurements and tuning which I've documented in the REW forum.

I was starting to construct my baffle wall now that everything behind the screen wall is installed. 

So I come down this morning and take a look at what I've done so far.



And I thought of two things. 

First, I forgot to leave "holes" in the wall for me to try to use the space behind the baffle wall as a bass trap of sorts. This first question has 2 parts. A) Is it reasonable to believe that a bunch of fiberglass behind the baffle wall might be able to act as a bass trap? Based on the latest waterfall graph, it appears that I could use some help at 40 Hz and between 65-120 Hz. There appears to be more of a decay issue in the upper bass (65-400 Hz) range some of which I'm assuming will get better as I add more Linacoustic on the side and back walls. B) If it is reasonable to believe that I could have an effective bass trap there, does my baffle wall construction (studs - 1/2 plywood - GG - 1/2" drywall - possibly another GG/drywall layer - 2" Linacoustic) pose any sort of impediment to the bass interacting productively with the bass trap behind it if I do not leave "holes" (i.e. an 18" x 18" cutout) in the baffle wall? I'm concerned that with multiple "holes" in the baffle that the integrity of the baffle will be significantly compromised as there is relatively little space around the L/C/R speakers as it is for a continuous baffle. The most reasonable solution I can think of at this time is to make a 6-9" "slot" open at the bottom of the wall.

Second, am I wasting my material and money having Linacoustic behind the baffle wall? I'm assuming that the Linacoustic I'm going to be putting on the front side of the baffle wall will do the same job as the Linacoustic that is currently behind the baffle wall. Between the fact that that there is Linacoustic on the front of the baffle wall and the understanding that higher wavelength frequencies at which the Linacoustic is effective are more effectively blocked by the wall itself, will any of those frequencies actually make it "back there"? Plus, in order for it to make any difference to the sound in the theater itself, it's going to have to reflect off the back wall and go back through the 2" Linacoustic on the front of the baffle wall again before getting into the theater space proper. I'd think that it would be significantly attenuated by that time. I can also put some pink fluffy in the stud spaces on the back of the baffle wall.

A third question now that I have your attention. I have the option of substituting the 2" Linacoustic for a 1" Linacoustic - 3 mil poly - 1" Linacoustic assembly. I have read that the poly helps the Linacoustic act more as a "membrane absorber" with the understanding that somewhat lower frequencies can be absorbed. With a setup like mine where there are going to be many little penetrations (the 3 speakers and the 2 subs) that would preclude being able to have a big sheet of Linacoustic and poly, is this configuration still effective? I'm assuming that the poly sheet should be continuous and not cut up into many pieces to fit in the space like a jigsaw puzzle?

Thanks for your thoughts.


----------



## RossoDiamante (Aug 12, 2013)

The baffle wall is constructed. I put 2" of Linacoustic on the front face and put 24" of fiberglass into each of the corners and in between the subwoofers behind the baffle wall.

Got some interesting REW measurements. An unexpected improvement in the null around 55 Hz that has vexed me. I almost don't believe it at this point since I don't understand how what I've done would affect a null like that. I will remeasure again tonight.

It's also time to start cleaning up the rack. With the assistance of everyone else in the family, I managed to move the behemoth Sherbourn amplifier up to its final location. Time to buy some shelves and faceplates.


----------



## dougc (Dec 19, 2009)

Making some serious progress there. I think the linacoustic is a good idea on the baffle wall and you can always add more if needed. You might want to flip the subs so the ports don't move your screen. What are you using for the LCR and subs? Pink fluffy behind the baffle wall would make a trap if you have some way to vent the wall. I have seen people use the chair riser the same way as a bass trap.


----------



## RossoDiamante (Aug 12, 2013)

Interesting thought about the port. I guess I have not been overwhelmed by the air movement coming from the port. But any flapping of the screen would be super annoying. At one point, I did confirm with Jeff at JTR that the subs can be mounted "upside down" without any performance issue. Initially, they were mounted closer to the floor behind the stage and the port would be blocked by the stage if they were upside down. But now that I've moved them up and forward, that ceases to be an issue. It's an easy thing to do. I might as well just do it.

I built the baffle wall with a 9 1/2" slot on the bottom for the purpose of allowing the fiberglass behind the baffle wall interact with the rest of the space in the room. I can only assume that this is enough. But I'll never know if more would have been better or worse. I had to balance the desire to have a pretty continuous baffle for the main speakers to work off of.


----------



## Owen Bartley (Oct 18, 2006)

Looks like a good solution. I'll be very interested to see how it measures. What happened to the Linacoustic that was on the front wall? Or did I miss something?


----------



## RossoDiamante (Aug 12, 2013)

The pic is from before the Linacoustic to show the 9.5" slot at the bottom of the wall that opens up the space behind the baffle wall to be used as a bass trap.

I flipped the subs just to be safe. Even so, i think that drivers will still end up behind the screen and may cause some flapping. I guess we'll see. These subs get ridiculously loud!


----------



## RossoDiamante (Aug 12, 2013)

To finish off the rack, I need a bunch of shelves and faceplates. I thought I'd pass along the name of the place that I found has the best prices on Middle Atlantic stuff. Wish I found this place when I initially ordered the rack!

https://www.abcconf.com/Store/pc/home.asp

Hopefully they come through with timely delivery.


----------



## RossoDiamante (Aug 12, 2013)

The shelves and faceplates came in a day or two earlier than expected. Everything was perfect. Their prices were very good compared to other places I called.

Carpet is in. My screen frame is done and painted. The rack is getting put together in its final configuration.

This should be the last picture of a theater without a screen.


----------



## dougc (Dec 19, 2009)

Almost there - what screen and PJ are you going with?


----------



## RossoDiamante (Aug 12, 2013)

Hopefully we'll see them up tonight! 

Seymour AV 140" wide 2.35 screen with Sony HW50ES. I have to figure out how an anamorphic lens works. That's the one new wrinkle that I've never done before.


----------

