# My new Ekta Grandes -- just completed.



## Airdyne

Hope you like photos of my latest build.

Design similar to Troels but with Sonus Faber twist -- weigh in at 44Kg

Veneered and built by hand with a few simple tools and a router.


Airdyne


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## Dale Rasco

Those look magnificent! How do they sound?


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## GranteedEV

I've always wanted to hear a troels design. I bet they sound awesome... I thought it's supposed to have a slanted baffle to time align the drivers though.

Congrats, excellent worksmanship you got :5stars:


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## Cory Phoenix

Those are some of the most beautiful DIYs I've ever seen! Absolutely beautiful craftmanship. Fantastic job, Airdyne! :T


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## Moonfly

Quality work, you wouldnt even know they were DIY's.


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## Airdyne

Fantastic very natural, seamless scaling, tight bass goes down to 30Hz and then some, mids/treble smooth and extended -- want to be played loud but sound equally as good, at lower levels in my smallish 4.8sq mtre room.


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## Airdyne

They do indeed have a slanted baffle, however this has slanted edges and is not a stepped baffle, as time alignment due to axial differences is not necessary with this design -- exact panel measurements are as Troels -- dispersion characteristics at the edges produce stable imaging despite the 15mm radius on each upright. 

Note -- The way the slants and driver offsets are implemented produces the best integration between the drivers/crossover match and sound dispersion off the baffle.
Hope this helps. 

Airdyne


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## Airdyne

Thank you for your kind comments.

Airdyne


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## Airdyne

They leave me almost without a fingertip, knife slipped while cutting one of the 68 slots in the veneer.

Thanks for your compliment.

Airdyne


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## Airdyne

Here is a better photo, perhaps, of the Baffle -- sloping contours were shaped using a chisel and plane.

Airdyne


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## Airdyne

Ekta Grande - front panel - dims.

ref: Troels Gravesend


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## waldo563

airdyne,

Beautiful workmanship...I wish I had the patience and the skill to build something like that. Hope your fingertip healed ok.


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## bambino

Those are some amazing looking speakers.:T Exellent craftsmanship.:sn:


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## Airdyne

Moonfly said:


> Quality work, you wouldnt even know they were DIY's.





waldo563 said:


> airdyne,
> 
> Beautiful workmanship...I wish I had the patience and the skill to build something like that. Hope your fingertip healed ok.


Thank's -- It's healed now thanks to Hospital Super Glue!:


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## Airdyne

Thanks Bambino


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## ironglen

Truly impressive. I'd really like to see a detailed build thread on such a skill-intensive design: any chance of it?


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## Andre

Those look very familar....

http://www.sumikoaudio.net/sonus/prod_cremona_m.htm


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## domwilson

One word....Stunning!


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## Airdyne

Andre said:


> Those look very familar....
> 
> http://www.sumikoaudio.net/sonus/prod_cremona_m.htm


Yes -- I like the Cremonas so much - I created a similar design, you will notice the drivers are different --- scanspeak bass and mid --- vifa tweeter!


Airdyne


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## Airdyne

ironglen said:


> Truly impressive. I'd really like to see a detailed build thread on such a skill-intensive design: any chance of it?


I have no plans to show complete build thread -- photo's are numerous -- I first started Nov. 09 -- making the 12 intenal braces from 1" MDF using a router. The rear spine was then made and glued along with the first front support baffle. Then 3 sides of 6mm MDF were glued, one by one each curved side and grooves
filled with tile cement. The final 4th layer was applied using 4mm birch-ply -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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## Airdyne

pics of internal braces and holding jig for sides using old cycle inner tubes and timber clamps.


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## Airdyne

Pic shows detail of wrap.


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## Airdyne

Another


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## Airdyne

xx


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## tcarcio

Just awesome.....:clap:


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## Airdyne

Thankyou tcarcio


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## Airdyne

.


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## FlashJim

Absolutely stunning speakers.

1. Are the dark lines epoxy?
2. Is that 1/4" aluminum plate that you used for the feet? Do you have any closeups of the feet? I might have to borrow that for mine.


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## Airdyne

FlashJim said:


> Absolutely stunning speakers.
> 
> 1. Are the dark lines epoxy?
> 2. Is that 1/4" aluminum plate that you used for the feet? Do you have any closeups of the feet? I might have to borrow that for mine.


Hi Jim -- The only pic's I have are on this page -- they use stainless steel 8mm leveling jack screws, with bonded nylon/rubber feet --- I have a laminate floor and do not believe in the science of spikes, especially with heavy 44Kg floorstanders!
I used 6mm Dural plate for the foot plates, powder coated black.

The black line infil is 30min epoxy mixed with the same black powder from the powdercoating paint shop.


Airdyne


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## FlashJim

Thanks for the info, Airdyne! I've never worked with epoxy, but I've watched David Marks use it in a class I took.


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## Airdyne

FlashJim said:


> Thanks for the info, Airdyne! I've never worked with epoxy, but I've watched David Marks use it in a class I took.


It's very easy, I just taped up each of the slots in the veneer on both edges with masking tape, then applied the epoxy liberally into each slot.
The excess spread onto the tape -- the tape was removed and discarded after 15mins and the epoxy and veneer scraped over to produce a clean result, two hours later with a stanley knife blade.

Airdyne


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## Yad

Airdyne, why did you choose another profile of the box? Was it only an design decision ? Anyway, your speakers a look good made.


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## Airdyne

Yad said:


> Airdyne, why did you choose another profile of the box? Was it only an design decision ? Anyway, your speakers a look good made.


I have always liked the curved "Lute shaped" enclosure, I chose this after seeing and hearing other similar designs.

Troels had previously said excellent bass would still be achievable with a slightly smaller enclosure so I went for a 30/32Hz tuning with 58.62 litre volume, instead of his original 65 litres for the bass section.

Curves present a much more ridgid enclosure and dramatically reduce standing waves.

Airdyne


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## Yad

Airdyne, I do agree with you about curved shapes. Also, i should say, that i had made the original ektas. But unfortunately, i was dissapointed a little. Their original bas was not as correct as i like. It had wooow-after sound. mostly because of standing waves. I decided to change that enclosure inside. But they re still looking like the originals. ) 

ps. have a look here )))) http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-speakers/22189-photos-speakers-interiors.html


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## Airdyne

Yad said:


> Airdyne, I do agree with you about curved shapes. Also, i should say, that i had made the original ektas. But unfortunately, i was dissapointed a little. Their original bas was not as correct as i like. It had wooow-after sound. mostly because of standing waves. I decided to change that enclosure inside. But they re still looking like the originals. )
> 
> ps. have a look here )))) http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-speakers/22189-photos-speakers-interiors.html


Hello Yad
I've seen your enclosures beore and admired them very much.

Lack of internal rigidity and/or filling can produce "honking" at lowish frequencies.
1/ How thick were the sides, what material, and how many internal braces, and what 1st lining did you apply?
2/ How much filling did you use per bass section and what type? ( zero on the fronts )
3/ Did you use bitumin pads on all sides and did you liberaly fill/damp under the tops and bottoms?


Airdyne


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## Yad

1/ 26 mm. Bracing configuration was original.
2/ first time i used as much, as was shown by Troels. 
3/ shure, i did )))))

once again, the problem was in standinng waves inside the cabinet and in the mistake, while the internal volume was chosen. mistake - is too common word. better to say: author prefers another approximization of the BR-box. It provides colourful and maybe powerful bass. But i'm still sure that it's not the reference studio-monitor quality. So, because the box had been changed, the crossover network was corrected too. Frankly speaking, i would prefer another revelator midrange and another x-over frequences...


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## looneybomber

Wow, those are some good looking speakers and completed without a shop load full of expensive tools. Impressive.

...Now what about the center and surrounds?


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## Airdyne

looneybomber said:


> Wow, those are some good looking speakers and completed without a shop load full of expensive tools. Impressive.
> 
> ...Now what about the center and surrounds?


Thanks for the complement,
I realise all you theatre buffs love your surround sound -- however to my taste I prefer to have just one really good pair of fronts -- as I listen mostly to serious music and don't want the room to be swamped.

But if I want to hear the White house exploding or helicopters circling around the room - I just use my imagination.


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## Airdyne

Yad said:


> 1/ 26 mm. Bracing configuration was original.
> 2/ first time i used as much, as was shown by Troels.
> 3/ shure, i did )))))
> 
> once again, the problem was in standinng waves inside the cabinet and in the mistake, while the internal volume was chosen. mistake - is too common word. better to say: author prefers another approximization of the BR-box. It provides colourful and maybe powerful bass. But i'm still sure that it's not the reference studio-monitor quality. So, because the box had been changed, the crossover network was corrected too. Frankly speaking, i would prefer another revelator midrange and another x-over frequences...


It seems like you did everything right -- The characteristics of the 18W/8531's are strong Bass -- however this should sound clean,tight and natural, as mine indeed does.
This is not to be confused however by their ability to play loud and deep notes which can give a feeling of less atack in the upper Bass -- this is because their upper Bass attack is present but it's lower fundamental note goes deeper and louder. In other words a smaller (Studio Monitor?) enclosure with earlier roll off often sounds faster in upper Bass because some of the lower are left to the imagination.
(all a matter of individual taste I suppose)
A similar effect is heard when adding a subwoofer to a pair of standmounts
(providing the slopes are integrating well)
On some audiophile recodings,with excess Bass, I have found the use of slight EQ. cut 
(1/2dB to 3dB @ 30Hz / 60Hz, does the trick in my room) Otherwise -- I enjoy the sound of deep natural Bass.

Airdyne


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## Airdyne

Yad said:


> 1/ 26 mm. Bracing configuration was original.
> 2/ first time i used as much, as was shown by Troels.
> 3/ shure, i did )))))
> 
> once again, the problem was in standinng waves inside the cabinet and in the mistake, while the internal volume was chosen. mistake - is too common word. better to say: author prefers another approximization of the BR-box. It provides colourful and maybe powerful bass. But i'm still sure that it's not the reference studio-monitor quality. So, because the box had been changed, the crossover network was corrected too. Frankly speaking, i would prefer another revelator midrange and another x-over frequences...


Yad,

Just to relect on your mention of Studio Monitor quality -- are we not realising that actual 
"studio monitors," are small to medium stand mounts excelling in vocals / upper Bass/Mid and high's --- as opposed to larger full range floor standing columns. (Perhaps you prefer this sound)

Airdyne


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## Yad

well... about studio monitors. I mean speakers with 1. flat and wide frequency responce, 2.phase coherence (ideal - linear ) of the speaker, 3. as ideal is possible step responce and as short as possible waterfall decay. 4. Minimum THD & IMD distortions. Speakers also should be heavy enough. (Sure the listening room must be designed and made for "sound needs". ) 

I can tell you what manufactured speakers do i like. 1.Manger , 2. Martin Logan, 3. magnepan, 4. Adam (studio speakers) , 5. Dynaudio (only active pro-speakers) like BM15A, 6. bowers and wilkins 800 D series. 7. and of course speakers, which i designed and made. Honestly, most of them, not all)))) 

about drivers. As an example. If i shoose between scanspeak dome or ring radiator speakers, i do prefer R29 revelator, or some like this. I do not like metal (aluminium, titanium and berillium) tweeters. As for me, their sound is too annoyingly ringing. They provide a lot's of colouration and intermodulation. 

(did i answered your question ?)


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## Airdyne

Yad said:


> well... about studio monitors. I mean speakers with 1. flat and wide frequency responce, 2.phase coherence (ideal - linear ) of the speaker, 3. as ideal is possible step responce and as short as possible waterfall decay. 4. Minimum THD & IMD distortions. Speakers also should be heavy enough. (Sure the listening room must be designed and made for "sound needs". )
> 
> I can tell you what manufactured speakers do i like. 1.Manger , 2. Martin Logan, 3. magnepan, 4. Adam (studio speakers) , 5. Dynaudio (only active pro-speakers) like BM15A, 6. bowers and wilkins 800 D series. 7. and of course speakers, which i designed and made. Honestly, most of them, not all))))
> 
> about drivers. As an example. If i shoose between scanspeak dome or ring radiator speakers, i do prefer R29 revelator, or some like this. I do not like metal (aluminium, titanium and berillium) tweeters. As for me, their sound is too annoyingly ringing. They provide a lot's of colouration and intermodulation.
> 
> (did i answered your question ?)


Yad,

Interestingly and with the exception of the Adam, Dynaudio BM15A Monitors and perhaps the B&W 800D which has more lower end capability than the former two well reviewed near field monitors --- the Martin Logan panels, with their odd matching conventional bass driver and the single Mangers have a dipole figure of eight room response and can be difficult to place in room -- certainly they don't have a flat response, but panels sound polite in comparison with the first two.
I have previously built dipole, active panels with 400 watt Cerwin Vega 15" bass drivers, however I found that none of the panel speakers 
( despite sounding fast and electrostatic like ) actually "Churn" ( Natural Bass Resonance) in the Bass areas. unless a traditionally enclosure loaded, moving coil bass driver is incorporated -- atempts by manufacturers to add rear loaded moving coil units to panels result in readily heard differences (muddle) in perceived speed and phase between the cone and panel.
I totally agree about aluminium, berillium, titanium sounding brittle and distorted -- I find it also can give a nasal like effect. However my last project had a 42" Ribbon Tweeter, made with corrugated aluminium foil backed with mylar tape, which sounded very good.

"Please note the above observations are my opinion only, others may not agree"


However ---- did you get near the sound you were looking for with your new Ekta Grande X/overs and enclosures? 
( I love the style and the finish ) 

At the end of the day it's all about enjoyment and with the line up of superb speakers you have produced, I am sure you have your favorite/s ---- It is practically impossible to describe sound by discussion.

Airdyne


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## Yad

offtopic: HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!!!!


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## Airdyne

Thankyou Yad -- A very happy new year to you also !!!!!!

Airdyne


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## dougc

Amazing work and a beautiful finish! I can't imagine what it would cost to buy a commercial piece that nice with comparable drivers. I have been flirting with designs for a Revelator build over the last year. Would you say the price is worth it?


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## Airdyne

dougc said:


> dougc
> 
> Amazing work and a beautiful finish! I can't imagine what it would cost to buy a commercial piece that nice with comparable drivers. I have been flirting with designs for a Revelator build over the last year. Would you say the price is worth it?


dougc -- Thank you, and --- Definately -- I have built several designs, some of them, my own ( I am retired ) however these are absloutely the best I have ever built.
I have played CD's that previously I had given up on, I am enjoying the way music is effortlessly portrayed by good recordings ( even some of the less well recorded have more detail ) Vocals have a lifelike texture with breathtones that stir the emotions.
Some have remarked on these being overly done on the low frequencies, well they can be awesome on recordings with more than their share of the deep notes, but still it does not overpower the upper end of the scale,
(Male speech on FM sounds totally natural with no boom, or chestiness) there is absolutely no need for a sub though -- unless you want to scare yourself.
The 30Hz, track 7 ( Temple Caves ) of Planet Drum RCD80206 can move ornaments. Only disadvantage -- these are very heavy loudspeakers 44Kg each -- when cleaning the floor, I have to put them on furniture skids to move them, definately a two man lift if moving them any distance!
Total cost approx 1500GBP -- took me a year -- on and off!

Airdyne


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## Yad

dougc said:


> Amazing work and a beautiful finish! I can't imagine what it would cost to buy a commercial piece that nice with comparable drivers. I have been flirting with designs for a Revelator build over the last year. Would you say the price is worth it?


in russia it would be 11000 euros per pair maybe more. for example this: www.xn360.com


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## dougc

Kudos! Enjoy the fruits of your labor. I'm sure I will be bothering you with more information, specifically about your thought process in the crossover design, hopefully near future.


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## Yad

dougc said:


> ... Enjoy the fruits of your labor...


100% agree


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## Airdyne

dougc said:


> Kudos! Enjoy the fruits of your labor. I'm sure I will be bothering you with more information, specifically about your thought process in the crossover design, hopefully near future.


Thanks dougc -- Recently I noticed that the Cremona "M" WAS $12800 (us) = £8285 (GBP)

(I prefer the sound of the sliced paper Revelator Bass and mids to the alluminium formulation of the Bass cones in the above, and I love the Vifa/Peerless XT25TG30 ring radiator)


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## DaveDaGr8

Hi Airdyne,

I have just begun the journey of build a pair of EG's, i have bought all the components and built most of the cross overs ( almost a year ago now ... these things take time ). 

I had already decided BEFORE seeing your version and i was going to follow the design on Troells site, however after seeing your version i have just redesigned my baffles. I really like your lute shape and the finish is superb. If i get mine half as good i would be happy.

The one thing that interested me was the decreased volume, i would like to keep the same volume as original. Given that, would you increase the width or the depth, or have a less prominent curve. I can see good and bad points for all and i'm just not sure which way to go.

Cheers.


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## Airdyne

Hi Dave

It really does not matter -- I prefer a narrow front (more elegant) so increasing depth would be good, plus it would increase the backwave reflective distance.
Though in practice internal reflections (standing waves) are very low with my design.

I aimed for 59 Litres final volume, with 4.9 Litres for the mid enclosure, at this volume the two port tubes 68mm/57.6mm (tapered) were extended from 220mm to 275mm in length -- for a 30 Hz tuning.

There is copious low bass from this speaker -- there is no need to go for the larger size.
Mine are very heavy 44Kg's --- injured my back lifting them!!!

Also no rquirements for any Sub-Woofer!! :hsd::hsd::hsd:


Rgds
Airdyne.


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## DaveDaGr8

Thanks Airdyne,

I have read a lot of stuff on speaker building over the last week or two. But i haven't made speakers before, so i'm not sure what you can change and what you can't. I have built houses, furniture, window frames, kitchens etc, so i think i'll just get there in the woodworking dept. But as for speaker design, building tuning .. well i'm in unchartered waters for me.

Anyway i will probably start another thread and throw my drawings / design in there.

Thanks.

Just need 1 more post i think


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## kstich

Wow, great job on the finish. I absolutely love your speakers, and am really happy they turned out with the sound you wanted. I seriously considered the Etka Grande from Troels site. I ended building the Zaph Audio ZRT 2.5 speakers instead. I think the front baffle intimidated me a little since this was my first build. I have also been very happy with the ZRTs and the 18W woofers. They do have an authoritative high quality sound. I opted for a sealed version since I do have a high quality sub and found I generally prefer sealed woofers. Anyways, once again, great job!


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## rubbersoul

You have Talent my friend.
Absolutely BEAUTIFUL!:yikes:


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## Airdyne

Thank you kstich!


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## Airdyne

Thank you rubbersoul --- you have great system, for sale!


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## rubbersoul

Thanks Airdyne.
It tools lots of time and patience.
One thing I want to make clear is I am only selling two Monster HTS 3600 powercenters...each $200.00. 
Nothing else is for sale.
They are brand new and have never been out of the box


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## Mauritzvw

Speachless! :clap: true beauties.


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## Airdyne

Thank you for your comment.


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## perfecxionx

This is certainly one of the best sonus faber lookalikes ive seen. Could you describe how you glued and wrapped the baffle with vinyl? Especially how you glued it flush to the front of the enclosure. Did you create the front so that it wasnt entirely flush before mounting the vinyl baffle (so it would be slightly inset)? Hopefully that question makes sense:R

You can kind of see what im talking about in this photo

http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/9730/prvt435lrg.jpg


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## Airdyne

Hello Danny

The 35mm thick front panel is covered with leather cloth, bonded with "Thixofix" contact adhesive.
The leather overlaps at the back by approx 15mm all edges, after trimming.
The entire panel is then bonded with solvent grab adhesive to the speakers sub-front panel ( 12mm thick )
this is recessed back from the side, edges by 5mm.

Sorry for late reply.


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## Yad

Airdyne, do You still use your Ektas ?


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## JCharger13

I was wondering the same as I am contemplating building a pair of EG or Illumina 66 myself. Have 50% of the drivers for either design. Leaning towards the EG. Has the potential of being very nice. Now if my enclosures look half as nice as Airdynes I will be happy. Very nice work sir!

Hoping to hear if Airdyne still has his and what he thinks about them now.


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## Airdyne

JCharger13 said:


> I was wondering the same as I am contemplating building a pair of EG or Illumina 66 myself. Have 50% of the drivers for either design. Leaning towards the EG. Has the potential of being very nice. Now if my enclosures look half as nice as Airdynes I will be happy. Very nice work sir!
> 
> Hoping to hear if Airdyne still has his and what he thinks about them now.


Hello Jcharger 

I do indeed still have them and I use them regularly.

Such was their resolution I have had to make changes to my signal source and main Amplifier.

For those who would like to hear the news please inquire -- I am travelling around again soon so replies may be limited.

Regards all,

Airdyne


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## Kiwilistener

:T:yikes:


Airdyne said:


> Hope you like photos of my latest build.
> 
> Design similar to Troels but with Sonus Faber twist -- weigh in at 44Kg
> 
> Veneered and built by hand with a few simple tools and a router.
> 
> 
> Airdyne


Outstanding job on those speakers. I love the tall look of these, they have a real air of refinement.
Oh and BTW welcome to the Troels club.

I recently finished a set of the "Strads".
They dwarf my "Arias" which are my HT mains. The Arias have now been replaced by the Strads as testing is complete.


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## Airdyne

Very nice, do you find placement needs to be further away from the rear wall? mY Ekta Grandes need to be at least 1.5 metres into the room.
I am using Audio Engine Dac 2 as my digital source.
http://www.computeraudiophile.com/c...d2-24-bit-wireless-computer-interface-review/
I also have introduced additional subsonic filtering at 27Hz and below plus DSP + 1.2dB at 60Hz and 0.6dB at 120Hz. 
This has given yet more tighter bass and a lift at room de emphasis 60Hz.
Do you stream video mp4 etc to your TV ?


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## Kiwilistener

Airdyne said:


> Very nice, do you find placement needs to be further away from the rear wall? mY Ekta Grandes need to be at least 1.5 metres into the room.
> I am using Auido ENGINE Dac 2 as my digital source.
> http://www.computeraudiophile.com/c...d2-24-bit-wireless-computer-interface-review/
> I also have introduced additional subsonic filtering at 30Hz and below plus a DSP + 1.2dB at 60Hz and 0.6dB at 120Hz.
> This has given yet more tighter bass and a lift at room de emphasis 60Hz.
> Do you stream video mp4 etc to your TV ?


The Strads can be placed up against the wall as the bass port is in the bottom .
The midrange port is the only one that faces rearwards, and isn't affected by distance to the walls. I still have them about half a meter from the walls anyway as it suits the soundstage better, and these have a wide soundstange.

I went second order 3 way with additional filtering on the tweeter as they can be a touch harsh and suffer from a rising impedance at the 14500kHz range. Measured frequency response in room at 1 meter is 20 Hz to 21000kHz. The enclosure F3 is 34.5Hz. I used an 8 inch rather than a ten inch driver and was able to keep the build size almost identical to Troels design.

To keep the bass response tight but responsive I modelled the enclosure for the bass driver at 35 litres. I've used these drivers in a 45 litre enclosure but they tend towards a little muddiness.
On the down side about 2/3 of my digital music collection is now basically just a collection of crappola  They are absolutely brutal on poor quality mixing and recording. Sadly this seems to be getting worse with digital media unless you can find remasters done as Flac's.

You cant see it but there is a media PC Tower behind the TV. We have about 3000 movies spread over 6 PC's in the house as well as a further 2000 on DVD disc. Coupled with that is about 150gigs worth of music, all streamed in one form or another.
We generally use XBMC as the media Player of choice, and we use the BluRay player for all the discs - everything is HDMI output as well, except for the turntable which is good old analogue.
And of course we stream movies and videos from various sources, especially TV shows that we have missed - you gotta love TV on demand ( No adds :clap: )


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## raelman

Hello from Spain to everybody.
Airdyne, I just can say this is an Impressionant work!

Now I'm building something simmilar, with the cremonas cabinets but slightly smaller that the Ektas (I have 46 liters for bass section while Ektas Garnde has 60litres.)
I'd like to install the Ekta drivers, so I'm modifiying what I need.

What can you tell me about the sound?

These are my enclosures already built:










What I'd like to know i how did you veneered the enclosures, by small horizontal "ribs" or a single sheet covering each side?

And how did you finished the curved area in the front?

Thank you!


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## Airdyne

raelman said:


> Hello from Spain to everybody.
> Airdyne, I just can say this is an Impressionant work!
> 
> Now I'm building something simmilar, with the cremonas cabinets but slightly smaller that the Ektas (I have 46 liters for bass section while Ektas Garnde has 60litres.)
> I'd like to install the Ekta drivers, so I'm modifying what I need.
> 
> What can you tell me about the sound?
> 
> These are my enclosures already built:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I'd like to know i how did you veneered the enclosures, by small horizontal "ribs" or a single sheet covering each side?
> 
> And how did you finished the curved area in the front?
> 
> Thank you!


Hello from D/UK 

Thank you for the complement.

I designed these with "curves" in mind to minimise internal reflections, ascociated with parallel walls, plus internal absortion using my own, home made "Tozawa" type (sic) absorbers, a large newspaper was also crumpled up and, placed in the bottoms of the enclosures, sprayed wth bands of rubberised adhesive 
The result was a very clean, forward soundstage with good imaging and very taught bass ( Maximised by further tweaking and tuning.
( it's never over even after 100 hours of running in )

The Scanspeak revelators are very accurate, very detailed, and smooth sounding with a very easy to drive impedance charateristic, they ooze liquidity and have bass capability that is excelling for a 180mm bass-mid driver. Two of these in parallel give output equivalent to a 12" unit. The most important mid range is very lucid and revealing (revelator?)
The veneer strips were cut to 100mm wide and bonded down with aid of a jig. to leave a gap of approx 1mm between each strip. When dry on all sides, each gap was the re-cut by hand with a guided stanley knife dipped in isopropyl alcohol. (taking care not to drink whilst cutting) they were then filled with epoxy mixed with black powder coat.

The fronts are 25mm+18mm sandwiched MDF set into and glued onto the 12mm supporting front panel.
The rounded edges are formed by wrapping the maple veneer around a 15mm Rad. hard wood quadrant at each side. The maple veneer strips were bonded with contact adhesive and clamp/glued, curved around the tight radius's with epoxy adhesive.

Total bass volume was 58 liters (excluding IB mid enclosure, and driver/xover volumes ) port tuning was for 30 Hz.
Note --- The extended low end of my Jungson Class "A" amp and associated AVI S2000 pre. caused me to place a silver foil cap at power amp signal in - so as to achieve a first order slope from 27Hz.
This reduced excessive output at subsonic.
I then found that I neded to correct a room placement suckout at around one octave above this, so I aded a Digital (DSP) boost of 1.5dB 60Hz and 0.5dB AT 120 Hz.

The bass tautness was even further improved and output lifted to suit my room/taste.

Photo shows my Tozawabs in place.

Where are you ports going? --- there will need to be two, ( one would be good due to lack of internal space but it would have to be huge! ) one around 2.6" dia x 201mm long or two 1.8"dia x 205mm (approximate)

I used this programme to give a very approximate size of port tubes --- http://www.mobileinformationlabs.com/HowTo-1Woofer-Box-CAL Port lenth 1.htm

I bought ports that were shorter than needed then made bond on extensions that could be tweaked -- they were temporarily held in with blue tac while tuning was in progress, then finally fixed with grab adhesive.

Ports similar -- http://www.teamaudio.fr/en/cabinet-components-parts/event-tube-bass-reflex/ab-sound-ep-68-220.html

Rgds Airdyne


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## Airdyne

Kiwilistener

Well done, love the finish ----- enjoy ----- try jriver media centre (not advertising) it has excelent DSP.

Rgds

Airdyne


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## Airdyne

raelman said:


> Hello from Spain to everybody.
> Airdyne, I just can say this is an Impressionant work!
> 
> Now I'm building something simmilar, with the cremonas cabinets but slightly smaller that the Ektas (I have 46 liters for bass section while Ektas Garnde has 60litres.)
> I'd like to install the Ekta drivers, so I'm modifiying what I need.
> 
> What can you tell me about the sound?
> 
> 
> What I'd like to know i how did you veneered the enclosures, by small horizontal "ribs" or a single sheet covering each side?
> 
> And how did you finished the curved area in the front?
> 
> Thank you!


Hello

The sound is best described as having a precision with lucidity that makes you want to just play loud and enjoy the enormous scaling.
The maple veneer strips were cut 100mm wide then bonded down with around 0.5mm spaces berween them.
When dry they were hand cut (52 grooves / pair) with a stanley knife dipped in alcohol. ( blades were changed every 3 strips )
Attached is a photo of the jig used with a bow tension braced from the workshop roof truss.
After re-cutting to leave 2mm grooves, each groove was then filled with epoxy mixed with black powder coat.

Rgds
Airdyne


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## Airdyne

Here are details of the radius clamping jig -- and photo of rear twin ports.


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## Airdyne

I'll be away for two weeks from tomorrow.

Airdyne


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## raelman

Thank you very much for these lessons. 
I guess I could make it as we'll as you did!
Thanks again


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## raelman

Hello again.

Really don't know if this is the right place for this question, but here I go:

What kind of wires would you reccomend me for Tweeter and Mid drivers?
I am confused between 16AWG OFC copper or 18AWG Silver Plated copper with teflon insulation and really don't know if its better 16 or 18AWG and if its worth the difference between OFC copper and Silver platted copper with teflon insulation.

Thank you again!


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## Airdyne

Good day ===

I have to admit, over the years I have tried various combinations of solid wires for mid and tweeter drivers but alas I cannot hear any difference whatsoever between them.
I used 18 gauge solid copper (not OFC) sheathed in shrink sleeve.

For the base drivers I used 64 strand OFC heavy duty cable, all connections were silver plated, crimped, push on bucket connectors dipped in vaseline.

Here again OFC was only used because it was in the cable manufacturers spec.

Consider that most crossover inductors are not OFC neither are cap wiring or indeed the driver coils themselves usually.

So where is the logic?

I have also tried making my own interconnects with pure silver wire teflon sheathed and cannot discern any differences.

When you have listened to all your gear for a few months, go tighten all of your speaker/amplifer connectors, use a good lube conductor fluid on your interconnects and you will hear sonic improvements.


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## raelman

Thank you very much.

I think that we spend lots of time thinking if copper, silver, teflon or whatever, but never put attention to our amp, room correction needings, speakers position...

I have bought OFC copper cable 2.5mm thick for bass and I think I will use a good copper cable 1.5mm think for mid/Tw and that's all.


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