# light can soundproofing idea



## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Thought I would bounce this off of the forum members and see what you think. So I started to construct MDF and drywall isolation boxes for my can lights and got to thinking about installing them. I don't really want to purchase the sound isolation clips to mount the boxes as it will end up costing upwards of $150 and any miscalculation in mounting depth and I would not get a tight seal between the box and the first layer of drywall.


I am thinking that I will be able to suspend the boxes by a single bolt in the top of the box, or perhaps some 12 gauge wire. The boxes would be effectively just hanging in space 1/2" or so below the level of the first layer of the drywall. Then when I install the first layer of sheet rock I would liberally apply a thick bead of silenseal around the edge of the box. When the sheet rock is installed the weight of the boxes will glue them to the first layer of drywall. Then I can trim the drywall and remove the bolt or wire and seal the hole..install the lights, and continue with the next layer of sheet rock. 

It seems to me that this would be the most effective way to decouple the boxes from my joists as the boxes would be glued to the sheetrock.

Am I missing something?


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## Andysu (May 8, 2008)

Do you mean the lights that fit flush to the ceiling in the plasterboard that is what we call it over here but I know what you mean by drywall.

So you’re basically looking to cut corners and cost of the installation.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Not sure how you're going to miscalculate the height. The boxes go flush to the bottom of the joists. You put a layer of caulk around the bottom of the box when you put up the first layer of drywall.

I understand what you're trying to accomplish but:

- Not sure how you're going to remove the bolt/wire when it's up behind the box and drywall. If you can't get all the parts, it's a potential buzz and rattle point

- I definitely wouldn't count on just the weight of the box to make a good seal - especially using a product that's not designed to be a glue.

Bryan


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/manual/sim_backer_box_installation_guide/

Maybe this can help?


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Yeah Ted,
I saw that guide and that was the catalyst for my idea. Andysu, don't be a hater...I am trying to save a little cash yes, (I had a root canal and crown three days ago that cost me as much as a new projector) but it is not a case of cutting corners at all. If after installation the box is not touching anything but the drywal it will be more effective at reducing sound transmission than if it was attached to the joists via clips. Based on the design of the box, it can be effectively mounted directly to the drywall and that is what I am trying to accomplish.

Bpape, I would be able to access the bolt or wire as the box would effectively be open and empty after I trim the drywall around the box to install the light unit. I could snip the wire and push it out of the way and then seal the hole. Good point on the sealer though, I product like liquid nails would probably be more applicable.

Building some boxes today. Man the "green" MDF got expensive in the last several months. :huh:


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## ZeosPantera (Sep 12, 2009)

All that OR you could just switch to recessed track lighting which I prefer over 20 Par Cans anyways. If you find high quality 120V and not 12V the designs are rather good. The 12V models all have huge ugly transformers on each fixture. Something like this is best.










Just a though.


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Yeah, track lighting would be much easier to install, as would soffits but I don't have the headroom in my HT for either unfortunately. Debated about digging the foundation out and pouring new footers and slab but it was just going to be a monumental amount of work. Lifting the house a couple feet was also an option (BTW it only costs around $10,000 to lift a house) but at one point the voice of reason, aka the wife said "just so I understand, you want to raise the entire house up so you can build a HT?" 

:innocent:


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## the colors (Mar 28, 2008)

bbieger said:


> Yeah, track lighting would be much easier to install, as would soffits but I don't have the headroom in my HT for either unfortunately. Debated about digging the foundation out and pouring new footers and slab but it was just going to be a monumental amount of work. Lifting the house a couple feet was also an option (BTW it only costs around $10,000 to lift a house) but at one point the voice of reason, aka the wife said "just so I understand, you want to raise the entire house up so you can build a HT?"
> 
> :innocent:


The things we do for our toys. I dug out my basement 3ft down jacked up the house and put in new colums just so I can have my own HT area.:clap:


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## glaufman (Nov 25, 2007)

the colors said:


> The things we do for our toys. I dug out my basement 3ft down jacked up the house and put in new colums just so I can have my own HT area.:clap:


I dream of doing that, but right now it's just a 3 ft crawl space, so 3 ft won't cut it... I'm afraid I'll hit the water table before I even get to an 8 ft ceiling.


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## ZeosPantera (Sep 12, 2009)

http://www.olympiabuildings.com/building-gallery/metal-building-sheds.htm

Your wife's will never have to know where it came from! Just pop it up and go for it. Lawns are for the weak!


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