# Hidden Components IR Question



## fax6202 (Apr 5, 2012)

I am fairly new to this so please bare with me. All of my components will be in a dedicated 'component room' accessible thru a pocket door. In order for me to control everything I need to use IR, correct? I understand that I will need an IR receiver in the actual theater room. Do i actually need an IR emitter for each device. Not sure how all this works. Are there any complete systems to use. Any and all advice/guidance would be much appreciated. Thanks.


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## TypeA (Aug 14, 2010)

Welcome to Home Theater Shack 

Ive used this system for many years and no problems except one, a URC40 universal remote wouldnt work with it for some reason. There might be cheaper and better solutions but Ive been really satisfied with mine. I have four rechargeable transmitters so I have a remote in all three zones and one always charged in the base unit, works very well through multiple walls and up to 40' away (ymmv obviously). If I recall correctly it comes included with a single eye blaster, 3 or 6 eye cables and additional rechargeable transmitter batteries are extra.


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## Gregr (Nov 2, 2010)

Fax...,

"Hi Fax, Welcome to HTS." I think I can help you understand what is going on well enough to help you make informed choices in putting together what you need to remain in control of your equipment.

First of all, most electronic equipment (gear or Kit) comes to market with a remote control these days. Two popular options for sending commands from a remote control to the associated electronic equipment are either IR or Infra-Red and Blue-Tooth. Both send digital info over a radio frequency.

In most home theaters there are several large pieces of electronics that come with their respective remote control. Most manufacturers do a pretty good job of providing functionality for other manufacturers electronic gear as well. Most of the gear will use IR (infra-red) remote control. Infra-red is a high frequency radio signal. The signal itself is able to travel around corners and through most walls. An Infra-Red signal will work from and to almost anywhere in your home to control your gear.

I suggest you start out with one of your remotes with the most function buttons on it. The Remote Control you choose to use needs to have all the typical on/off buttons but you also need motor mechanism controls for CD, DVD, BD players, like forward, reverse, stop and/or pause etc. etc.. 

Next, on the back of the Preamp, Amp, CD, DVD, BD players etc., you will find a remote trigger. You can wire these individual pieces of electronics to switch on and/or off together. For the gear without a 12v trigger or trigger you could use the handheld remote 
control. 

Too often one remote will not work for all electronic gear. In this case some have gone to a five in one etc. you will find them advertised many different ways and many are very good at controlling everything. This is a question for another thread since what I have works I don't know what is available for multi-remotes.

Sometimes trying to control a second Audio zone from that room requires a sender/repeater signal boost. 

Also, programming a remote is another forum question. If you find you do have other questions just ask.

I hope this is helpful


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## fax6202 (Apr 5, 2012)

Thank you to both for your quick/thorough repsonses. What I am looking for will be one zone only, the home theater room I am building in my basement. If I used one "Universal Remote" and any individual component remote (to control what the Universal cannot) would you have any recommendations on the best setup. My preferences would be an in-wall or ceiling receiver (very low profile/hidden), very little interference (if possible), and nothing that will break the bank. I just finished framing and am working on all electric work and just want to make sure I wire everything that I will need before I drywall. Again, I really appreciate the feedback. It helps a ton. Take care.

-Dave


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## Gregr (Nov 2, 2010)

Dave,
You should be good as-is. All of your Gear that comes with a hand-held remote control sender has the receiver built-in. Nothing extra is required. 

If..., you have gear without IR receiver built-in there is nothing you can do short of sending the unit back to the manufacturer for the upgrade if possible. Since some controls are actually motor driven/controlled. This is a big deal, most manufacturers do not offer a remote upgrade kit. It must be included in the design to begin with. 

Only if/when your remote control does not penetrate the walls to your IR receiver do you need a boost.


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## TypeA (Aug 14, 2010)

Really depends on the angle (and if you can get the transmitter close enough to the IR recievers on your gear) on whether you need the extra cable for a cabinet install. 1st review on the link I gave you is a video review of it installed in a cabinet, I use mine from across the room (and it works great all the way from the top shelf with the blu ray player to the bottom with the cable box):


















So not sure if you need to spend extra on the cable with the attachable eyes, but you would need the base unit and an extra battery for the extra remote you have.


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## fax6202 (Apr 5, 2012)

Awesome, thanks.


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## RTS100x5 (Sep 12, 2009)

fax6202 said:


> I am fairly new to this so please bare with me. All of my components will be in a dedicated 'component room' accessible thru a pocket door. In order for me to control everything I need to use IR, correct? I understand that I will need an IR receiver in the actual theater room. Do i actually need an IR emitter for each device. Not sure how all this works. Are there any complete systems to use. Any and all advice/guidance would be much appreciated. Thanks.


Are you open to using an RF remote instead of IR ?? Either way I set up alot of Home Theaters and can give you some straight advice .


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## fax6202 (Apr 5, 2012)

RF would be fine. The components will be behind a closed door in a closet. so drywall will be between.

Im all ears, any advice would be great


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## RTS100x5 (Sep 12, 2009)

OK if your Ok with using RF then heres my recommendation, RF being the better of the 2 choices anyways because it does not require a direct line of site and "aiming " your remote at an IR receiver.
The remote system I usually recommend for lower budget systems is the HARMONY 890 ADVANCED remote which includes a HARMONY RF EXTENDER...Its fairly simple to install and programs over an internet connection...I usually setup a free GMAIL account just for the purpose of logging in to LOGITECH website and programming the remote.... There are less expensive remotes but the 890 is much more consistant than the IR "blaster" types like the 900 (I really do not recommend that one or the HARMONY ONE which is not RF anyway)
Its a little bit on the expensive side but will save you from the headaches of the cheapies... My other questions are 
1. since your building your own room I assume your pre-wiring cables in the walls...ie speakers and signal cables to your plasma or projector..
2 Whatever display you have be sure to run at least 2 cat5 or cat6 to it.. especially if its a "smart TV"
3 In most of my installs I run a 2 inch pvc pipe from the display to the equipment closet or at least to the attic so I can add additional cables in the future' If you do add this pipe be certain to use 90 degree sweeps for the turns and not 90 degree elbows.... it sure beats fishing new cables in the walls...
4 . At least 1 of the Cat5 at the display is for a IR Flasher controlling that device....
What is your basic equipment list ??


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## fax6202 (Apr 5, 2012)

1. since your building your own room I assume your pre-wiring cables in the walls...ie speakers and signal cables to your plasma or projector.....YES. I JUST FINISHED FRAMING AND STARTING THE ELECTRIC....WHICH WILL INCLUDE RUNNING CABLE...PROBABLY OVERKILL BUT I DONT WANT TO MISS ANYTHING..

2 Whatever display you have be sure to run at least 2 cat5 or cat6 to it.. especially if its a "smart TV".....WOULD THAT INCLUDE A PROJECTOR? THAT IS THE ROUTE I AM GOING.

3 In most of my installs I run a 2 inch pvc pipe from the display to the equipment closet or at least to the attic so I can add additional cables in the future' If you do add this pipe be certain to use 90 degree sweeps for the turns and not 90 degree elbows.... it sure beats fishing new cables in the walls......THAT SOUNDS LIKE A REALLY GOOD IDEA....THE PROJECTOR WILL NOT BE THAT FAR FROM THE EQUIPMENT ROOM...AND THERE IS A DROP CEILING...THE PVC SOUNDS REALLY GOOD.

4 . At least 1 of the Cat5 at the display is for a IR Flasher controlling that device....
What is your basic equipment list ?? IM STILL SHOPPING AROUND. I THINK THAT I AM SET ON THE EPSON POWERLITE 8350...THAT IS ALL IM SETTLED ON RIGHT NOW. I WANT TO KEEP THE EQUIPMENT BUDGET (NOT INCLUDING SEATING) UNDER 5K.

Read more: Hidden Components IR Question - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com


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## Gregr (Nov 2, 2010)

Fax,

Sorry, I have much to relearn. I know better but I was thinking infra-red was useable as a radio frequency. But the frequency is much higher than radio frequencies..., I forgot.

Thanks RTS I would not have given it a second thought. I'm in the right place. 

Still learning.


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## RTS100x5 (Sep 12, 2009)

NP, we are all on a learning curve here :yes:


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## RTS100x5 (Sep 12, 2009)

By "DROP CEILING" do you mean like a grid framework with ceiling tiles ??


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## RTS100x5 (Sep 12, 2009)

Are you wiring speakers for 5.1 , 7.1, 9.1 ??:huh:


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## RTS100x5 (Sep 12, 2009)

fax6202 said:


> 1. since your building your own room I assume your pre-wiring cables in the walls...ie speakers and signal cables to your plasma or projector.....YES. I JUST FINISHED FRAMING AND STARTING THE ELECTRIC....WHICH WILL INCLUDE RUNNING CABLE...PROBABLY OVERKILL BUT I DONT WANT TO MISS ANYTHING..
> 
> 2 Whatever display you have be sure to run at least 2 cat5 or cat6 to it.. especially if its a "smart TV".....WOULD THAT INCLUDE A PROJECTOR? THAT IS THE ROUTE I AM GOING.
> 
> ...


My suggestion is if possible to have the equipment on its own electrical leg seperate from lighting and or AC circuit ( you would be shocked how many new homes I install HT in that no consideration is given to this aspect ...lddude:


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## fax6202 (Apr 5, 2012)

Yes...a Grid with 2x2 ceiling tiles. i thought that i would start with 5.1 but i will definitely wire for 7.1 for a future upgrade..

If you dont mind can you elaborate on 'separate electrical leg...would that be branched off of the main line coming into the house?


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## RTS100x5 (Sep 12, 2009)

No just a separate 15 amp circuit out of the main panel. For example your Water Heater, Oven, Washer Dryer, are probably on an independent 15 or 20 amp circuit. Some home additions Ive seen and even some new builds have all the Home Theater gear on the same circuit as the lighting or even an AC unit :yikes: So when that AC unit kicked on in the summer time, the voltage readout on the PANAMAX surge unit went from 120v down to 110-112v with the Audio gear running...not an optimal operating voltage. I thought you might be tapping into an existing electrical circuit for the power in your new Home Theater.... So ideally you should run an AC line from the main panel to your new audio equipment closet....if possible ...I realize that retro runs like that are not possible in some situations...


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## fax6202 (Apr 5, 2012)

That is something that i will defintely do. The only cost is materials for me so I have some flexibility in how far and in depth i get with wiring/electircal. Also, as far as acoustics. Do I determine seat placement first then wire the speakers to fit that. Or, do I wire...and then place the seats in the most ideal place based on where I put the speakers.


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## RTS100x5 (Sep 12, 2009)

I would set up the ideal speaker locations first then place the seating in accordance to those locations....Make sure to use a professional grade wire are these are not going to be something that can be redone if it becomes an issue ... I recommend something of this grade....http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023901&p_id=2818&seq=1&format=2


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## TheUnscented (Apr 20, 2012)

Also building a HT room - approx 14' x 16'. We intend to build a cabinet with the components under the stairs so RF is preferable. Does anyone have a specific recommendation for an all-in-one remote? We're at the stud stage, so no Receiver/tuner purchased yet. Wish to use a front projector, a PS3. 

Is there a good remote app for the iPad or android?

Thanks!


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## TheUnscented (Apr 20, 2012)

Oh, on the cabinet we're building, how wide should it be? We're recessing it into the wall (fixed) and would like to have slide out drawers and good ventilation. We will have access to the back through a closet. Are most components 18" or less in width? We're interested in building out of plywood.

Thanks!


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## fax6202 (Apr 5, 2012)

Take a look at this http://www.logitech.com/en-us/1225/8439 

Its a Harmony app for iphones/ipads. I read up on a review of this and it was well received, but not for complex systems. I have never used it.


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