# Newbie requesting help on home theater design/construction



## Basa14 (Sep 28, 2008)

Hello to all:

I very recently joined the forum and everybody has been very friendly. It turns out that eugovector is from Iowa.

I want to make a portion of my basement serve as a dedicated home theater. The dimensions are 14x20x8 with a somewhat irregular shape. I've attached a rough diagram (not to scale) of my proposed theater and some pictures (in a zip file) to give people an idea of what I am thinking of. I'm very early in the planning stages and am very open to everyone's advice/suggestions. My basic desires in terms of electronics are:

-1080P projector
-~90-100 inch screen
-Seating for six
-5.1 sound (preferably 7.1) if the room is sufficiently large to justify it
-The first row of seats about 10 feet from the screen

There is a large HVAC that can be seen in the pics. I'm totally open in how to deal with that and the use of sheetrock vs a suspended ceiling.

Thanks for the welcome and the advice.

Sincerely,

Basa14


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

The design layout looks reasonably fine, except for the surround speaker position..
I would suggest that you move them out of that alcove area..and move them forward to the same width area as the front wall..
I would also place them on the side walls, adjacent to the seating position..

In that shape room, I don't think you'll be able to have 7.1 setup, but a 5.1 system will work fine..

Also, with all that timber panelling, you will need to look at some acoustic treatment, including wall panels and bass traps..

Keep us up to date with your progress..


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## Basa14 (Sep 28, 2008)

Prof,

Thanks for your advice. That wood paneling was there when I got the home. Would the acoustics improve if I removed all that paneling and placed sheetrock with some insulation behind it? Two of the four walls are concrete, which I am not sure if that is bad or good.

I was concerned about how the rear of the theater was a different width than the front. With the layout of the room, I really cannot change that. Would it work at all for a 6.1 system with the rear surround channel?

Since the window is where the screen is, and because the wall will never be perfectly flat, I'm planning on blocking the light coming in from the window and have the screen come from the ceiling. Is that a reasonable plan vs a fixed screen?

Thanks for everything,

Basa14


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Basa14 said:


> Thanks for your advice. That wood paneling was there when I got the home. Would the acoustics improve if I removed all that paneling and placed sheetrock with some insulation behind it?


It would certainly help things if you did that..



> Two of the four walls are concrete, which I am not sure if that is bad or good.


Concrete walls present other problems, but you should be able to reduce reflections from them with acoustic panels strategically placed..
It will depend on whether the're side walls or front and back walls



> Would it work at all for a 6.1 system with the rear surround channel?


A 6.1 system would work better with that alcove area..



> Since the window is where the screen is, and because the wall will never be perfectly flat, I'm planning on blocking the light coming in from the window and have the screen come from the ceiling. Is that a reasonable plan vs a fixed screen?


That would be fine..


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## Basa14 (Sep 28, 2008)

Prof,

Once again, thanks for your advice.

The walls with concrete our the one with screen and the wall to right when you are facing the screen. Anything special that should be on those walls with that in mind.

Is a riser of any use for the 2nd row of seats in a room this size?

Appreciate all of your input,

Basa14


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

Basa14 said:


> Is a riser of any use for the 2nd row of seats in a room this size?


Yes ... my room is just 9'x18'x8' and I have a riser for a better viewing from second row :yes:
Here is a link to a calculator, this will help you calculate the height of the  riser  ... just input the information need it.

I'm surprissed the Prof. didn't give you the link to his  Blocking window thread  ... unless he wants to copyright the design first :rofl2:

Theres some considerations you need to take when designing/building an HT ... but you'll be getting them little by little (like  viewing distance calculator ,  speaker set up/placement , etc.) :bigsmile:


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## Anthony (Oct 5, 2006)

My room is 11' x 19' x 7' 6" and I have an 11" riser for better rear seat viewing. My tall friend (6' 7") has to hunch down, but for everyone else, it's cozy but works great.


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## Basa14 (Sep 28, 2008)

Anthony and Salvasol,

Thanks for the helpful advice and links to calculators, etc. Given the size of your respective rooms, how large are your screens and what kind of speaker system do you employ?

Thanks for all the tips,

Basa14


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## Anthony (Oct 5, 2006)

I have a 92" screen with the projector in the back of the room (Sanyo Z4). I could go bigger, but then I wouldn't have any room for the speakers. Seating distance is 8 to 9' from the screen (front row).

I currently run a 4.1 system consisting of Magnepan speakers (10.1 fronts, MC1 rears) and a DIY dipole subwoofer, which if I ever paint, I will post pictures of  :daydream:

I found that with the narrow room and proper aim, I get a fabulous phantom center image from the Magnepans. I'm working on a DIY open baffle speaker system to replace the Maggies, but it is put on hold until the winter (when I"m cooped up more).


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Basa14 said:


> The walls with concrete our the one with screen and the wall to right when you are facing the screen. Anything special that should be on those walls with that in mind.


Sorry for the late reply..I've had ISP problems..:waiting:

The front wall being concrete shouldn't be a problem, but having to different constructions on the sidewalls is not ideal..
Ideally they should be the same type..and I would suggest if it's in your budget, to build a false wall in front of the concrete side wall, to match the other side wall..Then you will have a more evenly balanced acoustic environment..


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## Space (Jul 18, 2007)

Basa14 said:


> There is a large HVAC that can be seen in the pics. I'm totally open in how to deal with that and the use of sheetrock vs a suspended ceiling.


Hi Basa. Seems like the hvac might not be your first concern as applies to the ceiling area. How much noise is coming from upstairs and how much noise do you plan to make? These types of questions will help you to establish isolation requirements between this lower room and the above floor traffic.

Good luck,

Brien


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

Basa14 said:


> ... Given the size of your respective rooms, how large are your screens and what kind of speaker system do you employ?


I'm using a Samsung 67" DLP, I wish that I could use a screen and projector :yes:

I have a 7.2 speaker system (JBL's Stadiums, JBL SCenterII, JBL S36II, Velodyne VRP1000 and Infinity TSS750 subs and finally a pair of Buttkickers (one under each row)); my first row is around 11' from front wall and second row 16' ... one of the problems I have is that the second row is really close to back wall (1') ... which is not to good, but you have to use what you have :bigsmile:


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## Basa14 (Sep 28, 2008)

I will ask a foolish question, but how elaborate is a false wall? I assume it is more than framing and putting up some sheetrock?

Since I'm single, there is not a lot of noise coming from upstairs. I want respectable volume from the system and I don't want to hear much etraneous noise coming from the furnace/AC while watching a movie. I have no plans on moving to a new house, but I also want some isolation in case I ever decide to sell the house.

Anthony, I've heard of dipole surrounds, dipole main speakers, but never of a dipole subwoofer. It sounds as if both Anthony and Salvasol are both blessed in the bass department.

Thanks for the advice,

Basa14


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Basa14 said:


> I will ask a foolish question, but how elaborate is a false wall? I assume it is more than framing and putting up some sheetrock?


Well it's actually not much more than that..
You would need to include some insulation in the framing..and use two layers of sheetrock bonded together..
It's also a good way of hiding your cables by running them through PVC pipe in the wall cavity..


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

Basa14 said:


> ... It sounds as if both Anthony and Salvasol are both blessed in the bass department...


Thank you, and believe me ... you'll be there sooner or later :bigsmile:

Once you start in this hobby, is a non-stop fun ... upgrading, tweeking, adding/replacing equipment, subs, speakers, etc...

The buttkicker are a :yay: complement to the HT experience ... even with subs that can go down to low frequencies; they add that extra feeling to movies :yes:


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## Basa14 (Sep 28, 2008)

Fellas,

I have been absent from this board for a long time.

I'm still planning on doing my HT. Everyone has been very helpful in terms of recommendations/advice.

In terms of equipment, I have a lot of that stuff at this point:

-Onkyo 885 pre/pro
-Emotive XPA-5 amp
-PS3/ Toshiba HD-A3
-Emotiva ERT-8.3 (L/R); ERT-6.3 for C; ERD-1's for surround
-SVS PB-13 SW.
-APC line conditioner

I'm planning on blocking the window and using a drop down screen. I really want to a CIH. I was thinking of using a Panasonic PT-3000 and an Elite Osprey screen so I could view both 16:9 and 2.35 content. I'm planning on my front row being 9 feet from the screen and the hack row (on a riser) feet away. The screen (in 2.35 mode) is 115" diagonal and 45 inches high. I'm not certain how high to make the riser as I'm not certain how far the bottom of the screen will be from the floor.

Here is a link with some info on the Osprey:

http://www.avispl.com/av-products/s...ductname=Osprey+Multi-Masking+Electric+Screen

Does anyone have any experience with these screens? It is not tensioned, is that a huge liability?

In terms of the room, my basic plan is to tear down the wood paneling, run the wires, and have an electrician put in an additional 20 amp circuit or two to ensure adequate power. Then lay down the sheetrock.

Does anyone have any advice in terms sound proofing so I do not hear the HVAC system? I was thinking of using 5/8" sheetrock with Auralax acoustic foam between the studs to try and isolate the noise the HVAC puts out. I'd also appreciate any advice on what to do with the ceiling/soffitt.

Since it has been so long since I have been here I will upload the pics of my basement and my current thoughts on the floor plan. Since my internet connection is not doing well in terms of uploading stuff, I'm not able to do so right now. I'm using Windows Paint. Is there any freeware out there that one can use to easily draw to scale floor plans.

Sorry about the length of this post.

Thanks for everything,

Basa


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

Basa14 said:


> Does anyone have any advice in terms sound proofing so I do not hear the HVAC system? I was thinking of using 5/8" sheetrock with Auralax acoustic foam between the studs to try and isolate the noise the HVAC puts out. I'd also appreciate any advice on what to do with the ceiling/soffitt.


Are you doing anything else in the room to contain sound? Or are you just concerned with reducing the sound coming from the vents?


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Just off topic for a moment..sorry Basa..

Ted White..you were requesting info. on a window plug?..
I wasn't able to load the information to the other forum, so you might be interested to have a look at what I did here..
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/home-audio-acoustics/9610-blocking-out-window.html


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

I saw that thing of beauty. And that was really quite nice of you to remember. Thank you.

Now yours was thermal and light blocking, with absortion on theater side I believe. You didn't make accomodations for added mass for sound isolation, right?


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Right..

I didn't need sound isolation since my neighbor across from me is 1Km. away.!! :bigsmile:


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## Basa14 (Sep 28, 2008)

Ted,

I want to reduce sound coming from the vent as well as isolate the HVAC/water heater/dehumidifier so I do not have to listen to that while using the theater.

I've re-uploaded some pics of the room and a very rough floor layout to see what people think of things. There is also a vent directly above the elliptical trainer in the photo. I need to move that vent so that it does not blow on the screen/move it.

Sincerely,

Basa


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

Basa, so that I'm clear, you are not concerned about sound entering the duct, you want to have the vent quiet and aimed away from the screen?

It would be a job to move the duct, so you might consider installing a larger vent with some ability to direct the air coming out. Check with your local HVAC supply place.

One consideration is air speed. If you hear your vent now, it's likely the fast air moving over the vent grilles. If you replace your 8x8 vent grille (example) with a 12x12 grille, the change in diameter will slow the air down considerably. Same amount of air moving, just more slowly. Slower air = quieter air.


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## Bruce Fisher (Nov 24, 2007)

Hi Basa - you may want to check out my thread - sounds like we have similar challenges and plans 

After meeting with my carpenter - we opted to leave the paneling in place (major expense to pull it down) - and installed a layer of green glue and sheet rock over the top of it (using the paneling as the base layer). Amazing the difference the green glue made! Now if I rap on the wall looking for studs - I can't tell the difference when I'm hitting a stud or between them. Our paneling was decent - heavier than most paneling I've seen.

I have the same air challenges you do too. As Ted notes above, I plan to change my air outlet to a bigger one to slow the airspeed down reducing the noise I hear.

Regarding my HVAC closet - insulating it and adding the sheetrock/green glue helped a lot. I plan to add a layer of mass-loaded vinyl to the inside wall to help further reduce it. I'm also adding a layer of ceiling noise absorption on top of our drop ceiling to help there.

We should keep in touch


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

Great success story. Thanks for sharing.


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## Basa14 (Sep 28, 2008)

Fellas,

I'm not too concerned about sound entering the duct, I'm more concerned about noise from the HVAC system and the air flow buffeting the screen. As the ceiling isn't finished, I could conceivably move the duct away from where it currently is. Granted I know very little about HVAC systems, but it doesn't look too hard to do. I could move the duct farther from where it is with additional sections of duct and then use the wider ducts. Is that doable? It may no longer be in the ideal area for room airflow, but whose to say it is currently.

Bruce, my paneling is off exceptionally low quality. I'll take a look at your thread. My ISP is still acting flaky and it is taking some time to pull up. One advantage of taking the paneling down is the ease of wiring for speakers. Was all your wiring in place prior to starting your rebuild? It sounds as if the mass-loaded vinyl can really reduce the sound transmission, has that been your experience?

What program did you use to create that nice floorplan of your theater.

Thanks for all the tips,

Basa


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

You can certainly move the ducts as you say. And have the vent wider than now, perhaps with some ability to direct the airflow. A quick trip to your HVAC place will open up a world of choices.

Mass loaded vinyl is simply another heavy material. Mass is mass. I'd suggest drywall. Much cheaper and easier to work with. You see less and less MLV being used anymore. There are much better systems and materials now.


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## Bruce Fisher (Nov 24, 2007)

Yeah - i was only suggesting MLV inside the HVAC closet area to help dampen that noise. There might be better options - I haven't done it to mine yet so I haven't really researched it  (I added a layer of drywall outside the closet which has helped a lot but my ceiling tiles are removed right now so I don't know exactly how much yet or if I want to do anything else...)

My wiring wasn't (isn't) done yet - but because of the drop ceiling - it's very easy to pull wiring. The wiring from my previous layout is worthless (I already pulled it out) so I'm in process of rewiring now - and will then be reinstalling the drop ceiling tiles (they are actually very good - not the typical lightweight tiles) and adding a layer of insulation and soundproof barrier for good measure. My goal isn't 100% isolation - just as much noise reduction (both in and out of the theater) as is reasonably possible.

For software, I use room arranger. Works pretty well and is easy to learn. It's a great help when I'm talking with the contractor, electrician, or equipment vendors.


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

Hard to beat heavy drywall


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## Basa14 (Sep 28, 2008)

I can imagine that a drop ceiling makes it easy to add/amend your wiring.

Ted, what sort of materials/systems are you alluding to in your post? I assume you mean something more exotic than just drywall.

Basa


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

For your vent, you mean? Nothing exotic, just a bigger vent that you can direct the airflow with.


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## Space (Jul 18, 2007)

"Does anyone have any advice in terms sound proofing so I do not hear the HVAC system?"

You may want to google "duct silencers", or "home theater duct silencers" or some variation of the two. Many have built diy silencers that effectively stop the noise that plaques a home theater build.


Good luck, hope this helps,

Brien


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

Anyone can feel to PM me for two articles:

Ventilation
Soffit Construction

I'll need your email address to email them


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