# LCR to go with the Maelstrom Towers of Thor?



## erwinbel (Mar 23, 2010)

Hello,

I am about to start building a pair of huge LLT SW with Maelstrom 18" here:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-general-discussion/27065-sw-type-our-ht.html
I was wondering if anyone could reccomend a DIY LCR to compete with (or trump:R) the B&W CT-700 CT7.3 in cabinet speaker? Making a cabinet is no challenge, but I am a dummie when it comes to electrics & crossovers. I am lusting for the top-dog CT800-series from B&W. Which are NOT in my price league.

EDIT:
For now, my preference would go to a 5-driver layout with the MTM vertically in the middle (D'Appolito) and the woofers to the left and right. 
Budget: same as the B&W CT7.3: 1500 $ each
SPL should be THX Ultra for this big space (5,000 cu.ft). 
Power: aiming the Emotiva XPR-7 (arrives later this year with 400 W @ 8 ohm / channel)

Maximum exterior cabinet size
Width: 27" 
Height: 24" 
Depth: 27"

I have a pair of Jamo R909 that have ScanSpeak Revelator tweeters and mids from Seas. Like it a lot! 
Also like the sound of B&W's that use FST mids, like my CM7's and the formentioned CT 7.3
Do not like the Klipsch Ultra set. They are fine with movie, but sound harsh with music video's.

I hope someone can do a suggestion.

BTW It don't HAS to be 3-way. The SW will do all below 80 Hz. But a vertical tweeter / mid array is something that I believe in.


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## 1Michael (Nov 2, 2006)

Just so we understand, you want to fill a 5000 sq ft space with sound, with a speaker thats 24 inches tall? Not going to happen. You are going to need something more like this http://htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=11873&page=1&pp=35


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## erwinbel (Mar 23, 2010)

buggers said:


> Just so we understand, you want to fill a 5000 sq ft space with sound, with a speaker thats 24 inches tall? Not going to happen. You are going to need something more like this http://htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=11873&page=1&pp=35


No, I meant 5000 cubic feet
It's a family room with an open kitchen, diner table and HT zone. All open plan

Snell has in cabinets that you can choose square or tower shape but otherwise identical:
http://www.snellacoustics.com/ProductDetails/InCabinetSpeakers.asp
I want to put the center below the screen. That is 120" wide, so only a height of some 70 cm remains for the center and this includes the top and plinth from the cabinet.


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## erwinbel (Mar 23, 2010)

This ODIN Mk3 from SEAS looks promising
Too bad the port is in the back. If I would change the shape, keep the volume, put the port in the baffle, would this work? 
I think the price would be close to 1500€?
It's rated for a 400 W peak / ch amp, but at 4 ohms
Link:
http://www.seas.no/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=42


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## looneybomber (Sep 20, 2006)

Brandon's no quarters?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1167816
Or Zilch's econowave deluxe crossover for the speaker.
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?p=1632351#post1632351









High output, but no low end output. Crossing over at 80hz is what they're designed for.


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## erwinbel (Mar 23, 2010)

http://www.triadspeakers.com/products/product_literature/irplatlcr.pdf

I like these. 5 drivers each, 2W & 2M from ScanSpeak. 500 W / 4 ohm. Now we're talking.

Since I discovered here yesterday that an AT screen does not have to cost 3000 to 6000 € but that the fabric can be had for a few 100$ instead, I decided to go this route. I shall aim for a vertical design, same for all 3 LCR, made not to deep, compensate the dept with the height and hang them on the wall behind the AT screen.

Anyone know of such kits?


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## vann_d (Apr 7, 2009)

Check out Pi Speakers

http://www.pispeakers.com/contents.html

Not the best looking but high efficiency and high quality. No personal experience but I have been looking at them (4pi's) for my own setup.


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## erwinbel (Mar 23, 2010)

vann_d said:


> Check out Pi Speakers
> 
> http://www.pispeakers.com/contents.html
> 
> Not the best looking but high efficiency and high quality. No personal experience but I have been looking at them (4pi's) for my own setup.


Yeah, they look the part. I will check these out! thx


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## erwinbel (Mar 23, 2010)

http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Jensen.htm

3-way-2-box from a Danish DIY speaker designer. All 3 drivers are ScanSpeak Revelator. These will take 300 - 400 Watt easy. I just need confirmation that they are OK against a wall behind an AT screen. The special vents can be in the front. I will ask the designer if I can reduce the dept and compensate with height. 

There is the choice between standard caps and "superior" caps which cost some 180 € vs 800 €. Any thoughts on that?
The 3 drivers will cost some 700 €. So in total (with 800€ caps), this is the same as the B&W CT7.3 in cabinet. Total box size is like 3x as large... Would it be worth it?


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## looneybomber (Sep 20, 2006)

erwinbel said:


> http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Jensen.htm
> There is the choice between standard caps and "superior" caps which cost some 180 € vs 800 €. Any thoughts on that?...Would it be worth it?


You'd need some very good electronics and room acoustics (and ears) in order to hear a difference when doing an AB comparison. If it were me, I'd pass and use the money saved on room treatments.


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## erwinbel (Mar 23, 2010)

looneybomber said:


> You'd need some very good electronics and room acoustics (and ears) in order to hear a difference when doing an AB comparison. If it were me, I'd pass and use the money saved on room treatments.


OK, thank you for the tip.

Room treatments were intended anyway.
The HT zone (about 50% of the surface) will have: a thick black carpet installed in the floor, a 6" raised drywall ceiling that will be more or less filled up with DIY fiberglass panels (covered with black fabric) and about the same thick panels for the front wall (behind the screen, round the LCR)
You don't have to convince me about the importance of the room acoustics:nerd:


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## erwinbel (Mar 23, 2010)

erwinbel said:


> http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Jensen.htm
> 
> 3-way-2-box from a Danish DIY speaker designer. All 3 drivers are ScanSpeak Revelator. These will take 300 - 400 Watt easy. I just need confirmation that they are OK against a wall behind an AT screen. The special vents can be in the front. I will ask the designer if I can reduce the dept and compensate with height.
> 
> ...





looneybomber said:


> You'd need some very good electronics and room acoustics (and ears) in order to hear a difference when doing an AB comparison. If it were me, I'd pass and use the money saved on room treatments.


I have the prices from Jantzen Audio. The difference is not as big as mentioned by the designer.
The superior Z-caps are 899€ for a pair (not 800€/pc)
The standard cross caps are 240€
A mix from superior/cross caps are 363€

I am tempted between the superior (450€/speaker) and the mix (182€/speaker) cap versions.

I will probably be building 5 in the end, with the LR surround speakers. I thought to use in ceiling's first, but tall towers (1'x1'x6' WDH) would be very cool for the purpose... 

Am I correct in assuming that the power rate of the speaker is the sum of the driver rates?
Tweeter is 225 W, Midwoofer 70 W, Woofer 170 W (all 8 ohm). So I will be safe with a 400 W / channel amp?


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## erwinbel (Mar 23, 2010)

A pic of the Jensen prototype from TG website


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## chrapladm (Jun 17, 2009)

I am curious what you'll end up going with as I am figuring I will have to build something in the future to match my subs also.(or atleast be able to play reference volume)


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## Lucky7! (Jan 7, 2008)

erwinbel said:


> I have the prices from Jantzen Audio. The difference is not as big as mentioned by the designer.
> The superior Z-caps are 899€ for a pair (not 800€/pc)
> The standard cross caps are 240€
> A mix from superior/cross caps are 363€
> ...


Based upon my own personal testing upon a variety of caps both in xovers and coupling caps in amps, the differences are trivial. Go with the cheapest and be happy.


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## erwinbel (Mar 23, 2010)

A9X said:


> Based upon my own personal testing upon a variety of caps both in xovers and coupling caps in amps, the differences are trivial. Go with the cheapest and be happy.


Will do, thanks for the info!


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