# CSS SDX10 sub kit build



## pete in atlanta (May 24, 2009)

After seeing Mike P's build of the CSS SDX10 sub kit, I decided to bite the bullet. I was originally planning on building a much larger sub but I decided to try this one and if I like it I'll build a second or wait until later this year for the SDX12 kit to come out.

I was bored last night so I went ahead and built the enclosure based on the cut sheet on their site and the pics that Mike posted.

You can see the build pics here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/peteinatlanta/MyFirstSubwooferBuild?authkey=Gv1sRgCJbTubTFh6qY2wE#

Bob from CSS told me the amps are out of stock but should begin shipping out the first week in August.
So he's going to send me the speakers so I can at least get them fitted up.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do about grills. I really like Mike's idea of friction fit but I'm also pondering a wrap around grill that covers 2/3s of the height of the three speaker sides.

This is my first sub build and I'm a total newb to HT in general so I'm sure I'll have a million questions.
My first question is what to use to seal the MDF. I read somewhere about thinning down glue with water and using that. I'm assuming that I need to fill any nail holes and voids with filler or bondo first, then seal the MDF somehow and then sand for about a day then prime then paint. Can anyone suggest a good finishing primer? 

-P


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## hddummy (Mar 9, 2007)

Looks good! Yeah, I use the glue and water method to seal the edges...about 10:1. It doesn't take much water to make wood glue brushable. It will "raise the grain", so you'll have to go back and sand edges. Other than that, the faces are good to be primed. I use a latex based exterior primer since it tends to be a little thicker than interior and less likely to be absorbed too deep into the MDF. I then use black Semi-gloss Rust-Oleum Protective Enamel. It dries to a very smooth and uniform finish. See this thread. If you want to make the edges dissappear all together, I suppose you'll have to use some kind of body filler like bondo. Thought I've never tried anything like that. The nails can just be filled with a little spackle.


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

Nice work on the cabinet, it kinda looks familiar. :bigsmile: How big is the room the sub will be in?


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## pete in atlanta (May 24, 2009)

Thanks for the kind words guys. 

The sub will live in a 20 X 15 room. 
You can see the build out and get an idea about room configuration here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/peteinatlanta/HomeTheaterBuild?authkey=Gv1sRgCOuRjL7s5ev15AE#

I used Klipsch inwalls for the entire room:
Fronts: R-5800-W
Center: R-5502-W
Surrounds: R-5650-W
Rears: R-5650-W

Receiver: YAMAHA RX-V665

The receiver came with a free Polk PSW10 sub. Um... ya... 
The inwalls sound great but as expected, they need a lot of help down low.

Any suggestions on sub room placement? We're having a huge couch made and I was thinking about flanking that with the subs. 


Hddummy- I took a look at your link and ! what a fantastic idea for a corner TV. My inlaws have the very same configuration and that would sure make them very happy.

Mike P - thanks for such a detailed build. It was on the value and detail of your post that I decided to build this. 

-P


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

That is a big room for a 10 inch sub, as long as you're aware of that fact. It will do fine at moderate levels.


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## pete in atlanta (May 24, 2009)

my expectations are reasonable for a 10".
How happy will I be when I add the second SDX10 or SDX12 kit in November?

Should I just bite the bullet and craft a 15 for that room and use this one in family room?


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

I would definitely go with a 15" for a room that size. Is box size a concern?


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## ironglen (Mar 4, 2009)

pete in atlanta said:


> my expectations are reasonable for a 10".
> How happy will I be when I add the second SDX10 or SDX12 kit in November?
> 
> Should I just bite the bullet and craft a 15 for that room and use this one in family room?


Oh yes! 15" for the HT and the 10" will be great for music-plus no hurry to upgrade:bigsmile:


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## pete in atlanta (May 24, 2009)

the only issue I have with the 15 and the reason I haven't built one yet is that I have yet to find the turn key, tried and true right right out of the box build. This SDX kit was exactly what I was looking for- something that was all inclusive, thought through and had a cut sheet and, thanks to you Mike, build instructions.

Every 15 I've read about on the forums seems to have some issue, needs a great deal of time to tweek to get right. I'm a complete newby to HT. I have no idea how to tune anything. This build seemed like it worked right out of the box for you - no pun intended. 

If yall know of a proven "right out of the box "15 kit / build then let me know and I'll be on in a flash.

-P


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

You should check out the CSS QUARTET15 kit. It's the bigger brother of the kit you have now.

http://www.creativesound.ca/details.php?model=QUARTET15

Here's a comparison of the SPL output between the two kits. Pink is the QUARTET10 and Green is the QUARTET15. Instead of a 18 inch cube you would be building a 24 inch cube and gaining a huge amount of output. From 20 hz on up there's an 12 - 13 db advantage, even more below 20 hz.


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## pete in atlanta (May 24, 2009)

looks like a pretty significant difference in output but also in price. I'm gonna have to get the wife down in the meth lab a few extra hours to be able to front that kinda cash.

If yall suggest the larger is better ideology, then I'll start saving.
Coupla questions first:

1) Is there a significant output difference between ported and passive radiators? From what I've read it appears that smaller enclosure size is the biggest benefit of PR's. 

2) At this price point, how would the CSS QUARTET15 kit compare against say, the ED A5-350
(http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?t=2&products_id=618)
At only $50 more, it's already built and has a 5 year warranty. 

I want to feel as confident as possible before I buy/build. This is a lot of money for me to spend on 1 speaker. I didn't want to spend more than $500 on a sub- that's another reason the SDX10 was so appealing.


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

1. There's not much difference between ported and PR in output. When a sub requires a small volume, port length can become an issue, thus the advantages of a PR design.

2. I'm not familair with the ED A5-350, but from looking at the specs, I'd say the CSS QUARTET15 would out perform it. The E.D. has less excursion, half the amp power, and only 2 four inch ports. You can only get so much output from 2 four inch ports and then port noise is an issue.


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## pete in atlanta (May 24, 2009)

speakers arrived yesterday and I'm amazed at how much the driver weighs. It's heavier than the entire Polk sub I currently have. 
I tried a dry fit last night and it appears that my holes are a bit too small- the speakers don't quite fit flush- nothing a little sanding can't fix.


Questions:
1) How do I install these huricane nuts?
2) The rubber gasket thingy around the lip of the subs doesn't quite line up with the holes in the speaker. Do I need to drill these out or just screw through them?

3) is wood glue sufficient for the encluse or do I need to use screws / nails / biscuts? I plan to round over the top with a 1 1/4 roundover and am worried about hitting fasteners.

I can't wait to get started.


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

I can't say on the hurricane nuts, I've always used T-nuts.

You should be able to move the rubber gasket around to make the holes line up. Use closed cell foam weather stripping between the gasket and the baffle when you mount the sub. It will ensure an air tight seal.

Either glue and screws or glue and clamps. I'd go with clamps and not screw with a round over that big.


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## pete in atlanta (May 24, 2009)

Thanks Mike. I ran the RCA cables to the sub location(s) last night in my 120 degree attic. the attic crawl space over this room is just under 3 feet high so it was rather fun.

Since I'm using a 7.2 wallplate, my plan was to use a small RCA from the receiver to the wall plate, then a 50 foot run in the attic to another wall plate then a short 6 foot cable to the sub.
Am I going to have any problems with signal with this length and number of connections?
Everything is coming from monoprice.


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

By "RCA cables to the sub" do you mean shielded coax cable with RCA ends?


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## pete in atlanta (May 24, 2009)

yup. These guys:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10236&cs_id=1023603&p_id=2684&seq=1&format=2


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

Then you won't have a problem.


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## pete in atlanta (May 24, 2009)

SCORE! :yay2:


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## pete in atlanta (May 24, 2009)

*continued build pics*

I assembled the outer box first then installed the bracing. In hindsight, I think I should have assembled the bracing first and then built the box around it.

All and all it turned out fine. Just waiting on the amp to come in so I can rout the flang for it. Speaking of routing, it turns out that my Bosch 1613's throat is too narrow to spin the 11/4 roundover so I bought myself a Triton off ebay complete with a 24pc router set and brass bushing guide kit. All for 170 shipped. It arrives tomorrow- yahoo!!

The_* attack of the clamps*_ pics.


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