# dedicated HT room



## don5738 (Jan 7, 2008)

hi all, this is one of my first posts and i have alot of questions, i'm in the process of building my home theater,its approx. 23ft long and 15ft wide 2 walls are concrete and we are making others, we are staggering studs on 2 walls and floating floor and accoustic ceiling, this is all new to me got ideas from this site questions i have how far to mount projector from wall, i was thinking of painted screen? i read here that it works very well in dark dedicated room also double dry wall construction r13 isulation and r30 in ceilings i could use some insight i could use some ideas for sound quality in side room also what about audio i have all denon components but also bose lifestyle 48? what should i use still thinking


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## John Simpson (May 10, 2007)

Hi Don, welcome to the Shack! Feel free to ask as many questions as you like.

Painted screens get mixed reviews -- some people love them (mainly due to the cost savings) whereas others say you would be crazy not to get a proper projector screen. One of the key things to watch is "gain"... if your gain is too high (especially in a dedicated HT room) the image will be extremely bright. A low gain can produce some very deep blacks, but you have to make sure your room and projector are up to the task.

The Denon components sound sweet (I'm a Denon fan too) but the Bose speakers may let you down over time. Simply plan your walls as if you *will* upgrade at some point -- ie: conduit, heavy speaker cabling, sturdy wallplates. Lots of info in these forums about all that stuff.

(Although one of your first purchases could be a keyboard with a working "shift" key... :hide::jiggy


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## don5738 (Jan 7, 2008)

John Simpson said:


> Hi Don, welcome to the Shack! Feel free to ask as many questions as you like.
> 
> Painted screens get mixed reviews -- some people love them (mainly due to the cost savings) whereas others say you would be crazy not to get a proper projector screen. One of the key things to watch is "gain"... if your gain is too high (especially in a dedicated HT room) the image will be extremely bright. A low gain can produce some very deep blacks, but you have to make sure your room and projector are up to the task.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the reply and real funny I will try to remember the Shift Key.... How far should I mount the projector from the front of screen? and what about Base traps? I was thinking of seating and home made Risers


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## John Simpson (May 10, 2007)

Heheh, yeah, hope that didn't come across as rude. It's all fun until someone runs out of the room crying...

Projector distance depends on the projector you buy -- each will have different throw ratios and sweet spots. Wrap your eyes around this page, as a good start.

There's also a really neat projector online store that does the calculations for you -- anyone remember the URL?


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## YW84U (Apr 29, 2007)

Another Shackster welcome Don!

I think the site John was referring to is this one:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/projection-calculator-pro.cfm

Just enter in the make/model of the projector you're looking for, and you're good to go!

I'm using a DIY screen, and am quite happy with the results. Ultimately, I would love to go with an Acoustically Transparent 2:35 one, but it didn't fit my budget. Always something to upgrade to one day :bigsmile:

Cheers,


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

I'm confused. On one hand you say you're using an acoustic ceiling. Then you say you're floating a floor and using staggered stud walls. If you want any kind of isolation, you need a drywall ceiling with full insulation above. A drop acoustic ceiling will do nothing in terms of isolation.

Bryan


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## don5738 (Jan 7, 2008)

bpape said:


> I'm confused. On one hand you say you're using an acoustic ceiling. Then you say you're floating a floor and using staggered stud walls. If you want any kind of isolation, you need a drywall ceiling I thoughtwith full insulation above. A drop acoustic ceiling will do nothing in terms of isolation.
> 
> Bryan


Well I thought if I added R30 in ceiling and then acoustic drop panels approx. 4inches drop would give air space above for isolation I have seen those type of ceilings in real theaters so now I have a decision to make drywall ceiling or this drop well I will post pics,when i figure out how 

thanks again I have alot of questions hope to get answers here.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

That will give you some bass absorbtion for the INSIDE of the room control. It will do zero for bass isolation to the outside world. It will help a little bit with stopping mid and high frequencies moving both ways - but bass is the thing that's the most annoying and hardest to stop. That just takes mass and decoupling.

Bryan


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## don5738 (Jan 7, 2008)

Hey Bryan,

Well I know about Bass noise and how hard to isolate, my main concern is my quality of sound inside room secondly noise outside of room I figred if I could stop sound leakage from room the quality inside would be better I might be wrong on this but then again I'm still learning I try and read up on all this stuff


Don5738


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

You are correct. Isolating the room from outside sound will reduce the ambient noise level of the room and provide you a quieter, more dynamically capable listening space. Again, unfortunately, a drop ceiling doesn't fit into this plan. 

Bryan


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