# Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US Version) PT-AT6000E (European Version): Official Owners and Information Thread



## mechman

[img]http://www.hometheatershack.com/gallery/file.php?n=9266[/img]*Brightness (Lumens) :* 2400 ANSI
*Contrast (Full On/Off) :* 500000:1
*Variable Iris:* **
*Audible Noise:* **
*Eco-Mode:* 22.0 dB
*Weight:* 19.2 lbs
*Size (inches) (HxWxD) :* 5.9 x 18.5 x 14.3
*Std. Lens:	Focus:* Power
*Zoom:* Power, 2.00:1
*Throw Dist (feet) :* 8.0 - 30.0
*Image Size (inches) :* 40.8 - 306.0
*Optional Lenses:* **
*Digital Zoom:* **
*Digital Keystone:* Vertical
*Lens Shift:* Horz & Vert
*Warranty:* **
*H-Sync Range*: 15.0 - 74.0kHz
*V-Sync Range:* 24 - 85Hz
*3D Projector:* Full HD 3D
*3D Glasses Type:* Shutter
*HDTV:* 720p, 1080i, 1080p/60
1080p/24, 1080p/50, 525i
525p, 576i, 576p
625i, 625p, 1125i​*EDTV/480p:* Yes
*SDTV/480i:* Yes
*Component Video:* Yes
*Video:* Yes
*Digital Input:* HDMI
*Computers:* Yes
*Display Type:* 0.7" 3 LCD
*Native:* 1920x1080 Pixels
*Maximum:* **
*Aspect Ratio:* 16:9 (HD)
*Light Source:* 220W UHM
*Life:* 4000 hours
*Eco-Mode Life:* 5000 hours
*Max Power:* 310W
*Voltage:* 100V - 240V

*Status:* Announced
*First Ship:* Pending

ProjectorCentral Review

HDTVTest Review of the PT-AT6000 - the European version


----------



## mechman

More images:

  

Click on them to make them larger.


----------



## cr136124

*Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

I was looking for information/discussion/tips on the new PT-AE8000U (US) or PT-AT6000 (Europe). Here are some details from Panasonic's website:

PT-AE8000U / PT-AT6000E

The PT-AE8000U full-HD 3D home theater projector delivers 2,400 lumens of brightness and has an extremely high 500,000:1 contrast ratio for an outstanding video experience. It comes equipped with a new 220W Red Rich Lamp for increased red intensity which enables the projector to produce bright images as well as stunning color reproduction. The PT-AE8000U generates deeper blacks by incorporating Panasonics Pure Contrast Plates, which match the LCD panel characteristics, virtually eliminating light leakage. Users can customize their viewing experience with the new 3D Viewing Monitor and 3D Picture Balance features. The PT-AE8000U is also equipped with three HDMI input terminals, which support DeepColor and x.v. Color, and two 12V Triggers for home theater automation, such as lighting and a motorized screen.

More information and details here:

http://panasonic.net/avc/projector/products/ae8000/specifications.html


----------



## cr136124

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

BTW - for those looking for the current rebate form (2 pairs of 3D glasses, $100 cash rebate and one additional year of warranty) here is the link: 

http://www.visualapex.com/ProductSupport/projectors/PT-AE8000U_promo.pdf


----------



## exlondoner

I'm about to order a Projector and was planning to go with the JVC RS-45 but just noticed that the 8000u is now available at a good price....

Does anyone have any thoughts on which one I should go with?


----------



## mechman

They are probably both wonderful pjs and I doubt you could go wrong with either of them.


----------



## Todd Anderson

How important is 3D to you?

If it's paramount and a must have, then you probably want to go with the panasonic. If it does't matter, I think the JVC probably has the upper hand.


----------



## exlondoner

27dnast said:


> How important is 3D to you?
> 
> If it's paramount and a must have, then you probably want to go with the panasonic. If it does't matter, I think the JVC probably has the upper hand.


Right, I went ahead and purchased a new JVC.


----------



## joe slovak

How do you like the Jvc and what screen are you using? Did you ever consider a epson? Thanks


----------



## BabyHuey

Like its predecessor, the ae7000, im assuming this also has the same lens memory so that you could do 2.35:1 content from without having to manually adjust correct?


----------



## ALMFamily

Correct. It does not seem like much, but it is an incredibly handy feature.


----------



## Infrasonic

When using the lens memory system for 2.35:1 content (onto a 2.35:1 screen) would an Anamorphic Lens be required?


----------



## tonyvdb

Infrasonic said:


> When using the lens memory system for 2.35:1 content (onto a 2.35:1 screen) would an Anamorphic Lens be required?


No, if you have the projector set up correctly you will use the internal "Masking" feature to black out the black bars that will be zoomed off the top and bottom of the screen.


----------



## Infrasonic

Great, thanks Tony! This projector (or the 7000) will be at the top of my list after I move. I'm sure I'll be bugging you with more questions then


----------



## phillihp23

I wish I had held off on my Pani 7000 a few months, if I had only done my homework and seen the Pani 8000 was soon to arrive........:crying: Well I'm sure by the time I'M ready to upgrade again the Pani 20,000 will be out onder::rofl:


----------



## hjones4841

I am interested in hearing from users of the Panny 8000. The HDMI input board on my Sony VPL-HW15 is failing - HDMI 1 has sparklies on 1080i from my DirecTV DVR but displays 1080p perfectly. HDMI 2 is clean on 1080i but no HDMI handshake on 1080p. I have swapped cables, put in line HDMI amps, even direct connected the sources to the projector to eliminate my Denon AVR, and have come to the conclusion that the board is going bad.

I had a similar problem on a Sony VPL-HW10, but the whole board quit. I had an extended warranty on it and Sony replaced it with the VPL-HW15 since the HDMI board was not even available from Japan (waited 3 months for it).

Anyway, I am deciding whether to replace the Sony or wait until it fails. As of now the Panny 8000 is at the top of the list, but I would like to hear from owners that have had it for a few weeks. 3D is not that important to me right now, but I will get a 3D projector this time.


----------



## MrAngles

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

I just placed an order for the PT-AE8000U from bhphotovideo.com. $2699 before the mail in rebate, best price I could find from an authorized dealer.


----------



## cr136124

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



MrAngles said:


> I just placed an order for the PT-AE8000U from bhphotovideo.com. $2699 before the mail in rebate, best price I could find from an authorized dealer.


Pretty cool!!!

Let me double congratulate you on this deal. You purchased yourself a really nice projector and at the same time you did it for a terrific price!

Don't forget to post back your impression on this projector as soon you have it at home.

BTW - is this your first projector? It is for me and I'm totally happy with it.








[/IMG]








[/IMG]


----------



## MrAngles

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

Yep, this is my first. I've bought Panasonic displays exclusively in the past 13 years because they always seem to give me the most bang for my buck, so it didn't surprise me that I ended up with a Panasonic projector. I'm still building my dedicated room and wasn't planning on buying the projector so early, but I figured I wouldn't see a lower price any time soon. Once I get the sheetrock up I'll probably just end up projecting it on the painted wall for a while until I'm sure what size screen I want. I don't know what I'll do for a screen after that, I like the idea of a DIY screen, but I'm overly critical of things like that, so I worry about imperfections.


----------



## cr136124

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



MrAngles said:


> Yep, this is my first. I've bought Panasonic displays exclusively in the past 13 years because they always seem to give me the most bang for my buck, so it didn't surprise me that I ended up with a Panasonic projector. I'm still building my dedicated room and wasn't planning on buying the projector so early, but I figured I wouldn't see a lower price any time soon. Once I get the sheetrock up I'll probably just end up projecting it on the painted wall for a while until I'm sure what size screen I want. I don't know what I'll do for a screen after that, I like the idea of a DIY screen, but I'm overly critical of things like that, so I worry about imperfections.


Cool. Your plan on projecting first on a painted wall is exactly what I did. This simple gives you the opportunity on testing what is the best size (screen point of view) that you can fit in your room. 

As soon my PJ was hooked to my gear, I projected several videos on the wall and then I used Scotch blue tape to simulate a screen. I tried different format ratios (16:9 vs 2.35:1) and I masked my wall on each different format. So, you can actually notice the differences between them.

Actually, when you have your "simulated" 2.35:1 screen on your wall, you should be able to try the lens memory zoom. It is really cool, but you will have to deal with the black bars on the sides (left/right) while projecting 16:9 format material.

Don't forget to post your initial impressions back here.

Cheers!


----------



## MrAngles

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



cr136124 said:


> Actually, when you have your "simulated" 2.35:1 screen on your wall, you should be able to try the lens memory zoom. It is really cool, but you will have to deal with the black bars on the sides (left/right) while projecting 16:9 format material.


The lens memory zoom is a very cool-sounding feature, one of the reasons I chose the projector. I'm almost certainly going with a 2.35:1 screen thanks to the height of the walls and the width of the room.


----------



## cr136124

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



MrAngles said:


> The lens memory zoom is a very cool-sounding feature, one of the reasons I chose the projector. I'm almost certainly going with a 2.35:1 screen thanks to the height of the walls and the width of the room.


Nice! Not sure if you already check this, but here is the link just in case you want to double check measure at your room.










* When projecting both 2.35:1 and 16:9 images onto a 2.35:1 screen using the Lens Memory function.










Here is the direct link for further details:

http://panasonic.net/avc/projector/products/ae8000/positions.html


----------



## MrAngles

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

Thanks for that. So if I'm reading that right, with a 120" screen I need to mount the projector at least two feet below the top of the screen? I wasn't expecting that...


----------



## MrAngles

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

No that can't be right can it? It says 2'0"-5'10" from the top of the screen, but a 120" 2.35:1 screen is only barely 4 feet tall if I'm doing my math right...


----------



## cr136124

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



MrAngles said:


> No that can't be right can it? It says 2'0"-5'10" from the top of the screen, but a 120" 2.35:1 screen is only barely 4 feet tall if I'm doing my math right...


I think the numbers provided are ranges. And the important one here is the negative (-) sign on the 2' 0". I understand that you can not exceed two feet above the top edge of the screen. 

But, it is better to double check with the folks at Panasonic. I need to register my unit, so let me take that opportunity to ask them about this. What is your throwing distance?


----------



## MrAngles

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

Aha, the negative sign! That makes more sense. If I did all my measurements correctly the lens will be right around 18'10" from the screen. I'm hoping to do a 126" screen, so it looks like I have a little bit of wiggle room.


----------



## MrAngles

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

With IR 3D glasses and projectors are there ever problems with the location of the projector? Should I prewire for an IR emitter in the front of the room just in case?


----------



## hjones4841

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

How far back from the screen are you? With mine set to Medium IR output on the projector I have no problems at 12 feet back. Screen gain is 1.3. Default output is High, but I had difficulty operating the projector's remote due to IR saturation from the emitter on the front of the projector. Note that the accessory emitter is around $200, so by all means try it without the extra one first.

BTW, the owner's manual shows 5 meters or 16'5" on axis with a 100" screen with 1.0 gain, 4 meters or 13'1" at 35 degrees off axis. I assume that is with High output. And they show that with the projector at 6m or 19'8" back from the screen. I expect closer to the screen would give more IR range.


----------



## MrAngles

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

Ah, I was forgetting about the screen reflection. I'm planning two rows, with the rear row being about 16 feet from the screen. I wonder why you can't use a standard cheapo IR emitter, I'm guessing it uses a standard 1/8" plug afterall.


----------



## hjones4841

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

I have had my PT-AE8000U for about two weeks now and it is time to offer my opinion. It replaced a Sony VPL-HW15, so that will be my point of reference. I purchased mine from Visual Apex - outstanding customer service.

The projector is ceiling mounted about 11' back from a 102" Carada Brilliant White screen, rated at 1.3 gain. The recliners are directly below the projector. I used a Peerless PRGUNV mount - very nice, easy to install and plenty of adjustments.

The first thing I noticed when I fired up the Panasonic was the brightness - much, much brighter than the Sony, even tho the Sony's lamp only had less than 300 hours on it. As far as sharpness, not that much different, but that never was a problem with the Sony. Perceived contrast is quite a bit better than the Sony, even with the Sony's auto iris on. The brightness can be distracting at times, tho. When theater flood lights pan across the camera, it is almost painful. Why programs like X Factor have to do that is beyond me. However, this level of brightness is essential, at least for me, for acceptable 3D performance. I would not want a projector with less output.

As for color rendition, the red push of the lamp is evident. One reviewer commented that flesh tones looked salmon colored. I disagree and find the color rendition to be excellent even out of the box. After a couple of days I ran a calibration using Calman 5 with a Xrite EODIS3 i1Display Pro probe. I failed to write down or store the final settings, but I recall that they were just a tad off the factory AV 709 setting. Of course the calibrated picture looked better, but not by a whole lot. Only by direct A/B would anyone tell the difference.

As for 3D performance, this is my first exposure to HT 3D, so I have nothing to compare the Panasonic's performance to. I have viewed scenes from several 3D movies, including Avatar, Lion King, Titanic and Tron Legacy. I only have completely watched Tron Legacy. I find 3D quite convincing at times and not so much at others. The nature of the beast, I suspect. 

As for ghosting, using the Panasonic glasses with the brightness on Normal, I don't see any from blu ray sources. Changing the setting to Light causes a little ghosting on some material and not on other.

3D from DirecTV (I am using a HR24) is good on ESPN and some programming on 3Net, especially the Natural Parks series. But other programming such as the On Deck series, the 3D is really bad. Again, the nature of the beast and programming dependent. On football replays from ESPN, I find the effect really nice, but I find myself distracted by the 3D so it is not as easy to follow the game. I noticed that ESPN will broadcast the 'Bama vs. Notre Dame game in 3D, but I am not sure which way I will watch it.

The fan noise on the Panasonic is quite a bit louder than the Sony and has kind of a whooshing sound. The fan varies speed, almost with the brightness of the programming. However, even at low system volume it is not noticeable. I mention it only because the Sony was almost dead quiet. And my room is very quiet, so that makes it more noticeable as well. But, if the fan noise is what it takes to get 4000 hours out of the bulb it is well worth it. I always changed the Sony at about 1000 hours due to dimness and the fact that I ran the lamp on high.

There is a noticeable focus shift as the projector (lens?) warms up. The Sony had that, but not to the extent of the Panasonic. It settles down in 2-3 minutes, but be sure to let the projector warm up fully before focusing. The motorized zoom and focus is very nice, something that I wished the Sony had.

So, that is my summary. I am very well pleased with the Panasonic and would buy it again.


----------



## MrAngles

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

Did you use eco mode at all? I'd like to try to use that as much as possible at least for 2D stuff, if for nothing else than to keep the fan noise down.


----------



## KelvinS1965

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



hjones4841 said:


> There is a noticeable focus shift as the projector (lens?) warms up. The Sony had that, but not to the extent of the Panasonic. It settles down in 2-3 minutes, but be sure to let the projector warm up fully before focusing. The motorized zoom and focus is very nice, something that I wished the Sony had.
> 
> So, that is my summary. I am very well pleased with the Panasonic and would buy it again.


I had a similar issue with my old AE3000 so here's a tip that should work for the newer models (and seems to work with my new X35): Wait until the projector has warmed up, adjust the focus and then set up a single lens memory. Then the next time you use the projector you can just push the lens memory button and it'll refocus for you after the warm up (nothing stopping you doing it when you first switch it on either).


----------



## hjones4841

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



MrAngles said:


> Did you use eco mode at all? I'd like to try to use that as much as possible at least for 2D stuff, if for nothing else than to keep the fan noise down.


I only did it when I first set it up and yes, the fan was quieter. For me it is not worth having to go into the menus to change the lamp setting and for 3D I want the higher setting.


----------



## hjones4841

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



KelvinS1965 said:


> I had a similar issue with my old AE3000 so here's a tip that should work for the newer models (and seems to work with my new X35): Wait until the projector has warmed up, adjust the focus and then set up a single lens memory. Then the next time you use the projector you can just push the lens memory button and it'll refocus for you after the warm up (nothing stopping you doing it when you first switch it on either).


Thanks, I will give that a try. Although I don't see a shift from use to use as long as it is warmed up. Maybe use a lens memory for when it is first turned on then another for after warm up.


----------



## KelvinS1965

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

I found that using the lens memory at start up on my AE3000 brought it into focus (even though the lens memory was set with the projector fully warmed up). Then after a while it would drift slightly off, but pressing the lens memory again would put it back into focus: The same memory was used for both, so it seemed that just the action of triggering the lens memory and it's subsequent refocus would sort things out.


----------



## MrAngles

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



hjones4841 said:


> I only did it when I first set it up and yes, the fan was quieter. For me it is not worth having to go into the menus to change the lamp setting and for 3D I want the higher setting.


Did it end up being a more reasonable brightness for 2D stuff though, or still too low for that? I doubt I'll be needing to change it back and forth much, I'm not a big fan of 3D.


----------



## cr136124

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



MrAngles said:


> Aha, the negative sign! That makes more sense. If I did all my measurements correctly the lens will be right around 18'10" from the screen. I'm hoping to do a 126" screen, so it looks like I have a little bit of wiggle room.


Ok. As per Panasonic customer support if you are throwing from about 14' (I just that distance as a reference b/ c I didn't know your actually throwing distance) you can mount the projector 47" above or below the center of the screen (120" 2.35:1 screen).

So, assuming the screen that you are planning on buying is 54" tall, the screen center should be 27" and therefore, you should be able to go 20" above the top edge of that screen (47" - 27" = 20" or 1' 8").

Of course the further up you go, the more uneven image that you will have at the bottom (optical effect on having your projector's lens aligned to the screen to a higher angle (not experienced myself, mentioned by Panasonic and it make sense to me).


----------



## cr136124

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



hjones4841 said:


> I have had my PT-AE8000U for about two weeks now and it is time to offer my opinion. It replaced a Sony VPL-HW15, so that will be my point of reference. I purchased mine from Visual Apex - outstanding customer service.
> 
> The projector is ceiling mounted about 11' back from a 102" Carada Brilliant White screen, rated at 1.3 gain. The recliners are directly below the projector. I used a Peerless PRGUNV mount - very nice, easy to install and plenty of adjustments.
> 
> The first thing I noticed when I fired up the Panasonic was the brightness - much, much brighter than the Sony, even tho the Sony's lamp only had less than 300 hours on it. As far as sharpness, not that much different, but that never was a problem with the Sony. Perceived contrast is quite a bit better than the Sony, even with the Sony's auto iris on. The brightness can be distracting at times, tho. When theater flood lights pan across the camera, it is almost painful. Why programs like X Factor have to do that is beyond me. However, this level of brightness is essential, at least for me, for acceptable 3D performance. I would not want a projector with less output.
> 
> As for color rendition, the red push of the lamp is evident. One reviewer commented that flesh tones looked salmon colored. I disagree and find the color rendition to be excellent even out of the box. After a couple of days I ran a calibration using Calman 5 with a Xrite EODIS3 i1Display Pro probe. I failed to write down or store the final settings, but I recall that they were just a tad off the factory AV 709 setting. Of course the calibrated picture looked better, but not by a whole lot. Only by direct A/B would anyone tell the difference.
> 
> As for 3D performance, this is my first exposure to HT 3D, so I have nothing to compare the Panasonic's performance to. I have viewed scenes from several 3D movies, including Avatar, Lion King, Titanic and Tron Legacy. I only have completely watched Tron Legacy. I find 3D quite convincing at times and not so much at others. The nature of the beast, I suspect.
> 
> As for ghosting, using the Panasonic glasses with the brightness on Normal, I don't see any from blu ray sources. Changing the setting to Light causes a little ghosting on some material and not on other.
> 
> 3D from DirecTV (I am using a HR24) is good on ESPN and some programming on 3Net, especially the Natural Parks series. But other programming such as the On Deck series, the 3D is really bad. Again, the nature of the beast and programming dependent. On football replays from ESPN, I find the effect really nice, but I find myself distracted by the 3D so it is not as easy to follow the game. I noticed that ESPN will broadcast the 'Bama vs. Notre Dame game in 3D, but I am not sure which way I will watch it.
> 
> The fan noise on the Panasonic is quite a bit louder than the Sony and has kind of a whooshing sound. The fan varies speed, almost with the brightness of the programming. However, even at low system volume it is not noticeable. I mention it only because the Sony was almost dead quiet. And my room is very quiet, so that makes it more noticeable as well. But, if the fan noise is what it takes to get 4000 hours out of the bulb it is well worth it. I always changed the Sony at about 1000 hours due to dimness and the fact that I ran the lamp on high.
> 
> There is a noticeable focus shift as the projector (lens?) warms up. The Sony had that, but not to the extent of the Panasonic. It settles down in 2-3 minutes, but be sure to let the projector warm up fully before focusing. The motorized zoom and focus is very nice, something that I wished the Sony had.
> 
> So, that is my summary. I am very well pleased with the Panasonic and would buy it again.


Thanks for sharing your opinion with us. Just one question: did you already register your projector at Panasonic? I contacted their CS team today, and at first the gave a web link that doesn't work and at second, they told me there is not available link, and that I need to call this number: 855-772-8324

If you did it already, could you please share more information on how you did it?



MrAngles said:


> Did you use eco mode at all? I'd like to try to use that as much as possible at least for 2D stuff, if for nothing else than to keep the fan noise down.


One week and a couple days here of experience and eco mode is best. I have the projector temporary mounted right behind my couch and the fan noise is really bad on normal.



KelvinS1965 said:


> I found that using the lens memory at start up on my AE3000 brought it into focus (even though the lens memory was set with the projector fully warmed up). Then after a while it would drift slightly off, but pressing the lens memory again would put it back into focus: The same memory was used for both, so it seemed that just the action of triggering the lens memory and it's subsequent refocus would sort things out.


Thanks for sharing this tip. I'll give it a try this night.


----------



## hjones4841

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

I registered by sending in the rebate form. It had spaces for all the info.


----------



## cr136124

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



hjones4841 said:


> I registered by sending in the rebate form. It had spaces for all the info.


Thanks! I already sent mine too. But, I wasn't sure if there was something else required in order to have the projector registered. 

So far my experience with the projector is really good. However, about Panasonic as a corporation, man that is a completely different story. :rant:


----------



## MrAngles

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

Are there any recommendations on mounts for this projector? I'm placing a monoprice order today and I'm wondering if I should add one of their mounts to it. It looks like it will need to hang down about 10" to clear the soffit that it will be mounted behind.


----------



## cr136124

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



MrAngles said:


> Are there any recommendations on mounts for this projector? I'm placing a monoprice order today and I'm wondering if I should add one of their mounts to it. It looks like it will need to hang down about 10" to clear the soffit that it will be mounted behind.


Have a look at this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PRGUNV-Precision-Universal-Projector/dp/B000TXNS6G/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2BHV1X3JM7CQS&coliid=I1VJ0R79SFFI92


----------



## MrAngles

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



cr136124 said:


> Have a look at this one:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PRGUNV-Precision-Universal-Projector/dp/B000TXNS6G/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2BHV1X3JM7CQS&coliid=I1VJ0R79SFFI92


Thanks! I wish it said how far from the ceiling it mounts the projector. Could you say why/if it's particularly better in quality than this one at monoprice? If it costs nearly $100 for a decent mount I'd probably lean towards doing a ceiling mounted shelf like this since it will be mounted right behind a soffit anyway.


----------



## cr136124

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



MrAngles said:


> Thanks! I wish it said how far from the ceiling it mounts the projector. Could you say why/if it's particularly better in quality than this one at monoprice? If it costs nearly $100 for a decent mount I'd probably lean towards doing a ceiling mounted shelf like this since it will be mounted right behind a soffit anyway.


I personally don't have first hand experience with that product, so I can't really tell you about difference in quality. I recommended that one, based on recommendations made by other Panny 8K owners in another forum that are using the Peerless mount. Some of them used regular metal pipe as extension, so that might work for you. Again, something that you might want to check directly with Amazon if indeed you are interested.

Only comment on the Monoprice item: do you really want to take chances with a $14.85 ceiling mount for a projector that cost $2.8K?

I'm not familiar at all with that Monoprice ceiling mount (I'm with TV wall mount.....and they are great!). But, I learned (the hard way) with other products, that sometimes is better to spent a bit more and get a better product. But that is just me......:coocoo:

On the other hand, I'm with you in terms on how much do I really want to spend on a ceiling mount, rather the option on building a shelf (tailor made) for my projector / HT Room. And, I'm going the shelf way. Why? Well, I do have materials (wood), some time available next week (vacation) and WAF, I can try to match ceiling trim/wall paint on my room. You know, to keep it classy......:bigsmile: 

Hopefully others will chime in with other options for you.

Cheers!


----------



## MrAngles

I completely agree about paying money where it counts, the only reason I bring it up is how cheap their tv mounts are and in my experience they have been better quality than more expensive ones I've dealt with. 

Of course the other reason to do a shelf is that it seems pretty likely that I'll eventually want to build a hush box.


----------



## hjones4841

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



MrAngles said:


> Thanks! I wish it said how far from the ceiling it mounts the projector. Could you say why/if it's particularly better in quality than this one at monoprice? If it costs nearly $100 for a decent mount I'd probably lean towards doing a ceiling mounted shelf like this since it will be mounted right behind a soffit anyway.


That is the mount I am using and it is very nice indeed. As for how far down, the mount itself has no drop from the ceiling, other than the height of the mount itself, maybe 2". You use standard 1 1/2" galvanized pipe. Mount a threaded flange to your ceiling, into a floor joist or rafter, of course. Then use one or more pipe nipples to get the drop you want. You will need a union - a straight "female" piece that is threaded on the inside of both ends - to join two nipples together if needed. Your local Home Depot or Lowes should have all you need. They will have black pipe also, but I am not sure the thread pitch is the same; may or may not be. I went with the standard galvanized. You may need a pipe wrench to snug everything up.


----------



## mcascio

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

I should be receiving my PT-AE8000u this Thursday. Thanks for the info about BHPhoto - best price I could find. I'll be upgrading my AE4000U which I've been extremely happy with already. The promotion's pushed me over the edge as well as the urge to give 3D a try again on the newly finished theater as opposed to my older 65" plasma.


----------



## ALMFamily

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



MrAngles said:


> I completely agree about paying money where it counts, the only reason I bring it up is how cheap their tv mounts are and in my experience they have been better quality than more expensive ones I've dealt with.
> 
> Of course the other reason to do a shelf is that it seems pretty likely that I'll eventually want to build a hush box.


I built my shelf in as part of the soffit - it really worked well and the fan noise is minimal. It also made it easy to hide wires / outlets.


----------



## cr136124

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



ALMFamily said:


> I built my shelf in as part of the soffit - it really worked well and the fan noise is minimal. It also made it easy to hide wires / outlets.


Cool. Do you mind to share a couple of pics here? I'm looking for ideas on how to build mine.

TIA


----------



## cr136124

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



mcascio said:


> I should be receiving my PT-AE8000u this Thursday. Thanks for the info about BHPhoto - best price I could find. I'll be upgrading my AE4000U which I've been extremely happy with already. The promotion's pushed me over the edge as well as the urge to give 3D a try again on the newly finished theater as opposed to my older 65" plasma.


Congratulations !!!!!!

:T


----------



## hjones4841

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

I did not realize how good the 3D performance on the PT-AE8000U is until I got a pair of Sony 3D glasses yesterday to try on my Sony KDL-55EX720 and Sony KLD-40EX720. YUCK! The Sonys are Ghost City! Of course, these are mid level Sonys and I did not try any adjustments - all 3D settings are default. Also, the Sony glasses are much heavier than the Panasonic and the charging port is not as conveniently located. And this was on DirecTV. I did not try a blu ray (yet), but the same program looked much better on the Panny, even with the Panny on the Light glasses setting.


----------



## ALMFamily

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



cr136124 said:


> Cool. Do you mind to share a couple of pics here? I'm looking for ideas on how to build mine.
> 
> TIA


Here is a link to page 35 of my build thread - see post #343:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...construction/51300-alm-family-ht-room-35.html

That shows the constructed box and how I tied it into the soffit. Here is the best picture I have of it once the drywall is up:










I will try to get a picture of the finished product up here soon.


----------



## MrAngles

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



ALMFamily said:


> I built my shelf in as part of the soffit - it really worked well and the fan noise is minimal. It also made it easy to hide wires / outlets.


That would have definitely been my first choice. With the support beam where it is I have a choice between mounting it directly in front of the soffit/right over my head sitting in the back row, or slightly below and behind the beam. I figured mounting below would be better for picture and zooming options so the lens would not be above the top edge of the screen, plus having it further back might help with the fan noise. It also allows me to keep my wiring outlets out of the actual ceiling, which should be better for soundproofing. I also thought about cutting a hole in the support beam just big enough for the lens to peek through, but aside from any structural concerns, it really would limit my ability to make adjustments to the projector position, I'm guessing...


----------



## cr136124

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



ALMFamily said:


> I will try to get a picture of the finished product up here soon.


Thanks for sharing it! 

Yeah, please post a pic (as your earliest convenience) of how everything looks now (finished product as you said).

:T


----------



## MrAngles

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

Well so far I don't notice the fan at all, but I've been using it in the office, where I already have a bunch of computer fan noise.


----------



## cr136124

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



MrAngles said:


> Well so far I don't notice the fan at all, but I've been using it in the office, where I already have a bunch of computer fan noise.


Are you using the Lamp in Normal or Eco Mode? 

I have my Panny right above my head (temporary location until I have a shelf build for it) and I can definitely say, there is a huge difference between the two modes (Eco mode more silent than Normal).

I hope you don't mind me asking, but why are you using such high end projector in an office? 
Or, is this your office PJ? :rubeyes: If yes, man.....what are you using in your dedicated HT? :unbelievable:


----------



## MrAngles

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



cr136124 said:


> Are you using the Lamp in Normal or Eco Mode?
> 
> I have my Panny right above my head (temporary location until I have a shelf build for it) and I can definitely say, there is a huge difference between the two modes (Eco mode more silent than Normal).
> 
> I hope you don't mind me asking, but why are you using such high end projector in an office?
> Or, is this your office PJ? :rubeyes: If yes, man.....what are you using in your dedicated HT? :unbelievable:


Ha, the HT room is still under construction. I just had it sitting on the spare bed in the office projecting on the wall above the tv because I couldn't help myself.


----------



## hjones4841

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



MrAngles said:


> Ha, the HT room is still under construction. I just had it sitting on the spare bed in the office projecting on the wall above the tv because I couldn't help myself.


Sad to say, but that is the way us folks are with our new toys:clap: Next question: Do you look out the window every few minutes to see if FedEx or UPS has delivered?:heehee:


----------



## MrAngles

hjones4841 said:


> Sad to say, but that is the way us folks are with our new toys:clap: Next question: Do you look out the window every few minutes to see if FedEx or UPS has delivered?:heehee:


You know it! My soundproofing order didn't arrive until 8 pm the night it was scheduled to be delivered. That was a long day for everyone in my house.


----------



## cr136124

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



MrAngles said:


> Ha, the HT room is still under construction. I just had it sitting on the spare bed in the office projecting on the wall above the tv because I couldn't help myself.


Ok now it makes sense.............:T



hjones4841 said:


> Sad to say, but that is the way us folks are with our new toys:clap: Next question: Do you look out the window every few minutes to see if FedEx or UPS has delivered?:heehee:


LOL......I already received all my toys and I'm still looking at the window when I hear a diesel engine passing by.........:coocoo:



MrAngles said:


> You know it! My soundproofing order didn't arrive until 8 pm the night it was scheduled to be delivered. That was a long day for everyone in my house.


So, what is the ETA for your HT room? And, what additional gear are you going to use there?


----------



## MrAngles

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



cr136124 said:


> So, what is the ETA for your HT room? And, what additional gear are you going to use there?


I've been given a deadline of "before storm season" to have a comfortable room finished. That means carpet needs to be in and drywall needs to be up and painted. I'm guessing I've got until April. I'm in the process of doing electrical now, here's my build thread.

I have a pretty simple setup of a PS3, Panasonic laserdisc player and a Panasonic SAXR-57 digital receiver. For speakers I have a 7.1 system with Acoustic Research AR1s for mains/subs, AR2C center, AR4C surrounds and a pair of Edge Pros for back channels.


----------



## cr136124

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



MrAngles said:


> I've been given a deadline of "before storm season" to have a comfortable room finished. That means carpet needs to be in and drywall needs to be up and painted. I'm guessing I've got until April. I'm in the process of doing electrical now, here's my build thread.


That is pretty cool. If you are working on electrical make sure you install a couple of 20A circuits/ breakers and 20A outlets to be safe in the future when you add some nice amps!!!



MrAngles said:


> I have a pretty simple setup of a PS3, Panasonic laserdisc player and a Panasonic SAXR-57 digital receiver. For speakers I have a 7.1 system with Acoustic Research AR1s for mains/subs, AR2C center, AR4C surrounds and a pair of Edge Pros for back channels.


Do you still have a laserdisc player!?!?! 

I have my Pioneer laserdisc player too..........LOL


----------



## ALMFamily

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



cr136124 said:


> Thanks for sharing it!
> 
> Yeah, please post a pic (as your earliest convenience) of how everything looks now (finished product as you said).
> 
> :T


Apologies - I have not forgotten. I will try to get it posted up tonight.


----------



## cr136124

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



ALMFamily said:


> Apologies - I have not forgotten. I will try to get it posted up tonight.


Cool!

Looking forward to watch those pics soon...:woohoo:


----------



## MrAngles

cr136124 said:


> That is pretty cool. If you are working on electrical make sure you install a couple of 20A circuits/ breakers and 20A outlets to be safe in the future when you add some nice amps!!!


I have one 20A circuit ready to run to the equipment rack at this point, one of the cool things about putting the rack outside of the theater room is that with the drop ceiling out there it will be super easy to add stuff like a second circuit later. 



cr136124 said:


> Do you still have a laserdisc player!?!?!
> 
> I have my Pioneer laserdisc player too..........LOL


Represent! Actually I didn't get a LD player until 2002 or something, specifically to watch Star Wars on it, but it's a pretty good one, with auto reverse, s-video and optical audio out.


----------



## cr136124

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



MrAngles said:


> I have one 20A circuit ready to run to the equipment rack at this point, one of the cool things about putting the rack outside of the theater room is that with the drop ceiling out there it will be super easy to add stuff like a second circuit later.


Nice! When I negotiated with my builder on finishing part of my basement, I missed that part. So, I can still add a 20A Circuit to my room without much trouble. But, I'll wait until I decide what to do with the other (unfinished) portion of my basement. 



MrAngles said:


> Represent! Actually I didn't get a LD player until 2002 or something, specifically to watch Star Wars on it, but it's a pretty good one, with auto reverse, s-video and optical audio out.


If I remember correctly, I purchased my LD back in 1997 or 1998. There were two models available at the store, and I pulled the trigger on the top level unit that included auto-reverse, s-video, and optical audio. 

Cheers!


----------



## ALMFamily

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



cr136124 said:


> Cool!
> 
> Looking forward to watch those pics soon...:woohoo:


Sorry it took me so long - here they are:


----------



## cr136124

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



ALMFamily said:


> Sorry it took me so long - here they are:


Thanks for taking the time on sharing these pics!


----------



## MrAngles

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

Man that looks great. Integrating the projector into the soffit is definitely the way to go.


----------



## ALMFamily

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

I really like how it turned out - just make sure you monitor the temp in there. I have a small hole in the back which goes to the AV closet. There is a in-line fan pulling air from that room so it should also pull air from that area. 

Plus, the Pannys vent from the front which helps keep the temp down in there as well.


----------



## cr136124

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



ALMFamily said:


> I really like how it turned out - just make sure you monitor the temp in there. I have a small hole in the back which goes to the AV closet. There is a in-line fan pulling air from that room so it should also pull air from that area.
> 
> Plus, the Pannys vent from the front which helps keep the temp down in there as well.


Ha, ha...I was about to ask you on the temperature control. But, you already answered my question.

:T


----------



## cr136124

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

Here is a quick video about how to set / use the lens memory feature:


http://youtu.be/dPAxZjRvPBM


----------



## MrAngles

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

I was playing around with the masking function the other day, and as far as I can tell it just produces the equivalent of "black bars," removing any picture information from the "masked" area but still projecting the full 16x9 shape. In that case what's the point? How do you guys keep light from spilling over the top and bottom of a 2.35:1 screen?


----------



## KelvinS1965

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

Either surround your screen with black velvet material...or buy an anamorphic lens. 

I'm pretty sure that there isn't a budget projector that actually 'shutters' the panels to give 100% pure black cropping, so you are limited to the native black level. This black level will tend to pump up and down along with the content due to room reflections and also in this case due to the dynamic iris. When I had an AE3000 my screen wall is dark brown so the bars weren't very noticeable, even less so when I got my JVC HD350, but once I added the A Lens, then there were no black bars left to see. I might paint my screen wall a lighter colour now (as it's a living room).


----------



## bobbybo

Where do you find glasses for this projector?

I was thinking about buying one for the living room, but heard glasses are hard to find?


----------



## joe slovak

bobbybo said:


> Where do you find glasses for this projector?
> 
> I was thinking about buying one for the living room, but heard glasses are hard to find?


I bought a few pairs from Visual Apex. You can get their number on line.


----------



## hjones4841

Amazon has them as well. Make sure you get the IR model. The RF (Blu Tooth) ones won't work with the 8000.


----------



## Wardsweb

I just received my 8000 and love it. Panasonic was running a special to include a three year warranty, two pair of glasses and $100 cash back. I couldn't pass it up.


----------



## JQueen

Wardsweb said:


> I just received my 8000 and love it. Panasonic was running a special to include a three year warranty, two pair of glasses and $100 cash back. I couldn't pass it up.


Awesome man congrats and enjoy


----------



## Wardsweb

JQueen said:


> Awesome man congrats and enjoy


Thanks, the picture quality is excellent and this is in Eco mode. Normal mode really kicks this to the next level.


----------



## JQueen

B-e-a-utiful


----------



## Wardsweb

Here is Eric Clapton at the Montreux Jazz Festival. The image was just transitioning to Joe Sample, so you can see his outline on the left. The image was not paused. This is taken during live play and Eric keeps moving while playing. It was hard to get a decent shot.


----------



## MrAngles

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

So I've saved some lens settings for 2.35:1 vs 16:9 material, which works great, is there a function that switches settings automatically based on the aspect ratio of the material you're watching?


----------



## Sonnie

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*

That is one of the features I could never get to work properly for me on my 4000. Not only did it not always seem to get it right, it was particularly aggravating with movies that change from 1.85:1 to 2.35:1 during the actual movie. I just switch between presets with my remote based on what I am watching.

I don't know if they have improved it or not on the 8000, but would be interested in knowing myself, as I am considering an upgrade.


----------



## Sonnie

Hey Luther... very nice! Are you using an "out of the box" setting... or have you calibrated any?

I am finding it hard to pass up too. Visual Apex is offering at $2,600 shipped with all the goodies. I think I may be ready to upgrade from my 4000.


----------



## ALMFamily

MrAngles said:


> So I've saved some lens settings for 2.35:1 vs 16:9 material, which works great, is there a function that switches settings automatically based on the aspect ratio of the material you're watching?





Sonnie said:


> That is one of the features I could never get to work properly for me on my 4000. Not only did it not always seem to get it right, it was particularly aggravating with movies that change from 1.85:1 to 2.35:1 during the actual movie. I just switch between presets with my remote based on what I am watching.
> 
> I don't know if they have improved it or not on the 8000, but would be interested in knowing myself, as I am considering an upgrade.


I know that I can do that on my 7000 so I am sure the 8000 can do it. I also seem to recall someone saying that you can turn off the "processing" message that pops up when it switches on the 8000 - something I wish I could do n my 7000.

On my 7000, the setting is under Lens Control and it is called Auto Switching. In there, you set each one to the name of the saved setting. Once you have that set up, it will automatically swap when it detects that specific format.


----------



## Wardsweb

Sonnie said:


> Hey Luther... very nice! Are you using an "out of the box" setting... or have you calibrated any?
> 
> I am finding it hard to pass up too. Visual Apex is offering at $2,600 shipped with all the goodies. I think I may be ready to upgrade from my 4000.


This is right out of the box. Super easy setup. All I did was adjust the lens for the screen and focus. I guess I should read the manual to better understand all the features. All in due time.

I can highly recommend the 8000. You will be amazed at the difference from your 4000. Tech has really come a long way in a short time. The blacks are really black, the definition crisp and it is bright. No issue with ambient light. For a blacked out room you will most likely want to run in Eco mode.


----------



## MrAngles

ALMFamily said:


> I know that I can do that on my 7000 so I am sure the 8000 can do it. I also seem to recall someone saying that you can turn off the "processing" message that pops up when it switches on the 8000 - something I wish I could do n my 7000.
> 
> On my 7000, the setting is under Lens Control and it is called Auto Switching. In there, you set each one to the name of the saved setting. Once you have that set up, it will automatically swap when it detects that specific format.


Thanks! 

Also, has anybody received their 3d glasses or rebate check yet? I sent mine in a couple days before Christmas and was kind of hoping I'd have gotten the glasses by now.


----------



## hjones4841

MrAngles said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Also, has anybody received their 3d glasses or rebate check yet? I sent mine in a couple days before Christmas and was kind of hoping I'd have gotten the glasses by now.


My check came last week. I sent mine in around the first of December, maybe late November. No glasses or extended warranty yet. I got the Disney WOW disc in mid December - they sent it FedEx requiring a signature!


----------



## MrAngles

hjones4841 said:


> My check came last week. I sent mine in around the first of December, maybe late November. No glasses or extended warranty yet. I got the Disney WOW disc in mid December - they sent it FedEx requiring a signature!


Okay good to know, thank you.


----------



## joe slovak

Just got my check this past Thursday. Actually the wife intercepted it. Received my glasses about a month ago. Waiting on warranty. Sent my stuff in about. Mid December.


----------



## Sonnie

I just pulled the trigger on one today with AGI (Audio General)... who we will be announcing as a new sponsor here in a few days. Which means I have a 4000 For Sale... nahhhhh... let's just give it away to one of our members who needs a projector. Sounds like a good plan to me and it is still an excellent projector. Yeah... it will make for a nice giveaway and our members deserve the opportunity to win it.


----------



## MrAngles

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



cr136124 said:


> Have a look at this one:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PRGUNV-Precision-Universal-Projector/dp/B000TXNS6G/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2BHV1X3JM7CQS&coliid=I1VJ0R79SFFI92


I got this mount. Is there a preferred way to attach it to the 8000? The fact that there are five screw holes was a little confusing, and I'm not really sure this is the way it's supposed to be set up:


----------



## Sonnie

I have been using the same mount since my 3000. They all have different screw holes and I have to use some spacers to keep all of them even, but they work out fine.

I believe one of those 5 holes is for your safety wire.


----------



## Wardsweb

Here is how mine is mounted. It is a Da-Lite that I modified for my custom lift, but you can see the mount points. It is nice that each mounting tab is individually adjustable for height. It allows for the different depths and to adjust overall X/Y axis of the projector.










You may read more on the lift in this thread: Custom Motorized Projector Lift


----------



## phillihp23

*Re: Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Owners and future owners' thread*



MrAngles said:


> I got this mount. Is there a preferred way to attach it to the 8000? The fact that there are five screw holes was a little confusing, and I'm not really sure this is the way it's supposed to be set up:


Looks about right. Key is if you hold the mount in your hands and let the projector hang below, does it feel like the weight of the projector is heavier on the left, right, front, back. In other words the brackets are to be put on in a way that distributes the weight of the projector evenly.


----------



## hjones4841

Anybody get their rebate 3D glasses and extended warranty yet? I am about to give up hope. Got the check, but nothing else. Mailed mine in late November.


----------



## MrAngles

I mailed mine in late December and got my check I think 3 weeks ago. My glasses may never come... I thought it said 4 to 6 weeks.


----------



## mechman

Did they have a limit on the number of glasses they were sending out?


----------



## MrAngles

mechman said:


> Did they have a limit on the number of glasses they were sending out?


The fact that they set up a new rebate form for December 1 - March 31 would seem to indicate that they are still doing it. Anyone who has received their glasses already, how were they delivered? UPS, USPS etc.? Was the box very big?


----------



## Sonnie

Maybe we should contact Panasonic and ask them because they are still advertising it. I am about to announce a special for HTS members to buy one from AGI and get and extra $200 off... and the $100 rebate and glasses are supposed to be included. If they have ran out, they should notify their dealers so they will stop advertising it.


----------



## foraye

Here is a quick look at my DIY mount...used a generic VESA mount for a PC monitor, which allows tilt/rotation etc. Total cost about $10.




























Also...there are (4) round 3/4" plastic spacers between the plate and projector.


----------



## foraye

That same mount held up my AE-2000 for 6+ years also...so its real world tested!


----------



## MrAngles

Well I found a UPS missed delivery notice on my door from "Advertising Checking Bureau." I'm guessing this has to be the glasses! Unfortunately they specified that a signature is required in person and I have a job, so I guess I'll never get them.


----------



## cr136124

Yes, these are your pair of 3D Glasses. 

Use the missed delivery note and call UPS to release them to deliver the package without signature. That is what I did for my glasses.

Good luck!


----------



## Sonnie

You can also leave a signed note on your door if they stated they would reattempt delivery. I have never heard of them making you sign "in person"... unless that is something new.


----------



## MrAngles

It's option B on the back of the notice, "The driver must obtain a signature from the person receiving the package(s) at the time of delivery."

They even crossed out the signature section to make sure it's clear. 









It's called the automated system and they gave me options to hold the package for pickup, deliver to a different address, or reschedule it.


----------



## MrAngles

BOOM.








I submitted my rebate form at the end of December, and a mere three months later my glasses have arrived. Hopefully that helps anybody else who is still waiting.

These are mediums, but they are plenty big for even my fat head. I'm guessing I'll need to get some smaller ones for my 6-year old and her friends. Does anyone have any experience with third-party glasses for panasonic projectors? Do they work as well?


----------



## hjones4841

Got my glasses yesterday also - mailed in late November. Of course, I had given up on them and bought some. Needed the large ones anyway due to my fat head.

Now if we ever get notification of the added warranty...


----------



## MrAngles

Best Buy has the Sony Playstation 3D glasses available for $13.99 each online for in store pickup. Limit one per order unfortunately.


----------



## Sonnie

Will those work with this projector?


----------



## MrAngles

Amazon says they're universally compatible with all active 3D tvs. Here's the link. I ordered a pair and I figure I can take them back if there's a problem.


----------



## MrAngles

I tried them out and the PS3 glasses work just as well as the Panasonic ones. They're a little bulkier and heavier, and they look like something out of a 90s cyberpunk movie, but I prefer the taller lenses, and they fit more snugly than the Panasonics, which is more comfortable to me. I wouldn't want to wear them on top of prescription glasses though.


----------



## MrAngles

I've used both glasses a bit more now and I definitely prefer the fit of the Sony ones. I went ahead and placed two more orders. A couple more things to mention about the PS3 glasses, they come with a nice drawstring fuzzy bag to keep them in, and they have the unique ability to allow two people to play certain PS3 games simultaneously without using split screen, where one player basically gets the left eye image and the other player gets the right eye image. Unfortunately though they don't have the ability to switch to 2D mode, which is a pretty cool feature of the Panasonic glasses.

Now I still need to find some glasses my kid can wear that don't break the bank.


----------



## Wardsweb

MrAngles said:


> I've used both glasses a bit more now and I definitely prefer the fit of the Sony ones. I went ahead and placed two more orders. A couple more things to mention about the PS3 glasses, they come with a nice drawstring fuzzy bag to keep them in, and they have the unique ability to allow two people to play certain PS3 games simultaneously without using split screen, where one player basically gets the left eye image and the other player gets the right eye image. Unfortunately though they don't have the ability to switch to 2D mode, which is a pretty cool feature of the Panasonic glasses.
> 
> Now I still need to find some glasses my kid can wear that don't break the bank.


Thanks for the feedback. Good information.


----------



## Sonnie

14 bucks seems cheap enough. I may buy a few pair of those for our visiting kids.

I will have to have some that fit over my eyeglasses.


----------



## ALMFamily

Might be worth ordering a pair to see if they are compatible with the 7000 too........


----------



## MrAngles

ALMFamily said:


> Might be worth ordering a pair to see if they are compatible with the 7000 too........


I'm pretty sure I've seen people on AVS talking about using them with their 7000s. They originally came on the market in November '11


----------



## Wardsweb

Bummer their website doesn't show any store where these are available in Texas.


----------



## MrAngles

Wardsweb said:


> Bummer their website doesn't show any store where these are available in Texas.


I apparently ordered the last pair in my area. The deal has been going on since the middle of March, so I'm not sure what the deal is. I'm going to keep checking my stores in case they get more in stock because I could use one more pair, but it's possible that the glasses are discontinued and they are clearing out their stock. I just think it's odd they would limit you to one per order if that's the case.


----------



## cr136124

Wardsweb said:


> Bummer their website doesn't show any store where these are available in Texas.


Do you mind of sharing the link for the discounted glasses?

TIA!


----------



## MrAngles

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Sony---3D-GLASSES/2904117.p?skuId=2904117&productCategoryId=pcmcat206100050021&id=1218459141544


----------



## cr136124

MrAngles said:


> http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Sony---3D-GLASSES/2904117.p?skuId=2904117&productCategoryId=pcmcat206100050021&id=1218459141544


Thanks man!

I'll try to see if Fry's Electronics will do price match on these glasses.....;o)


----------



## Sonnie

$22 at Amazon seems pretty cheap to me with free shipping. Time I drive to Bestbuy and pay 10% tax... I am actually saving money, since BB is an hour north of me.


----------



## MrAngles

I agree. You can't complain about paying $22 when the other options cost three times as much.


----------



## MrAngles

Okay so I mounted the projector using a Peerless PRGUNV, and I'm making adjustments, is it supposed to be this wobbly? It's frustrating to be making adjustments when the mount is so loose that mere fact that I'm touching it is tilting it. Do I need to check the captive screw again, or is this normal?


----------



## Wardsweb

After waiting for months for my 3D glasses, I went ahead and ordered three pair of the Sony from Amazon today. Then an hour after I got home, the UPS truck delivers the Panasonic glasses. Now I can outfit a family of 5.


----------



## Sonnie

As luck would have it huh.

I ordered 4 pair of the ones from Amazon yesterday.


----------



## Greenster

Where is the best place to get one of these?


----------



## Sonnie

AGI has a special offer going for HTS members... and then there is Visual Apex who is usually very competitive.


----------



## Undead98

Hi all -- 

Long time looker, first time poster. I just moved into a new house which has an awesome basement I can finish and turn into a home theater area. Until that is done I am making one of our second living areas a media room. This way I can buy and use everything until the basement is finished and ready. 

I picked up the AE8000U and a 135 fixed screen (screen for media room use now, probably not in the finished room). The problem I have is I want to use a single arm mount on the wall up in the media room for now so that Im not altering the ceiling with a mount there. This limits the repairs Ill need to make when the theater room is done.

So long story short... can anyone suggest a compatible wall-mount arm (or shelf) for the AE8000U? One that relies on single stud use?

Thanks! Pleasure to get to know you all!


----------



## blindman

I was thinking of just putting up a corner shelf from home depot.
I am also just developing my basement home theater room and am looking at getting the PT-AE8000 but want to make sure I am reading the lens shift specs correctly.
Ideally I would like to mount the projector in the top back right corner of the room out of sight.

according to the specs










For aprox 150" screen 2'7" to -8'3" from right edge of screen to center of the lens.
Does this mean I can go up to 8'3" with the projector to the right of the screen?

but the specs also state horizontal lens shift is +-26% :scratch:


thanks


----------



## Undead98

blindman said:


> I was thinking of just putting up a corner shelf from home depot.
> I am also just developing my basement home theater room and am looking at getting the PT-AE8000 but want to make sure I am reading the lens shift specs correctly.
> Ideally I would like to mount the projector in the top back right corner of the room out of sight.
> 
> according to the specs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For aprox 150" screen 2'7" to -8'3" from right edge of screen to center of the lens.
> Does this mean I can go up to 8'3" with the projector to the right of the screen?
> 
> but the specs also state horizontal lens shift is +-26% :scratch:
> 
> 
> thanks


From my limited experience the +/- 26% horizontal lens shift is from the center of your screen. So if you had a 100" wide screen, the projector can be +/- 26% of the 100" from the center point of 50", thus the projector needs to be between 24" - 76" off center.


----------



## blindman

thanks that is what I figured it should be. It would be amazing if it could shift from that far right!
re-examining the chart, I realized that it was not a minus but simply a dash and the "W" dimension is from the right hand of the screen inward to the center of the lens which would closely match the dimensions you stated.

thanks for the claification


----------



## MrAngles

So if I have a 2.40 aspect ratio screen which diagonal measurement do I use when setting the screen size in the 3D menu, the 2.40 diagonal, or 16x9 diagonal?


----------



## MrAngles

ALMFamily said:


> I know that I can do that on my 7000 so I am sure the 8000 can do it. I also seem to recall someone saying that you can turn off the "processing" message that pops up when it switches on the 8000 - something I wish I could do n my 7000.
> 
> On my 7000, the setting is under Lens Control and it is called Auto Switching. In there, you set each one to the name of the saved setting. Once you have that set up, it will automatically swap when it detects that specific format.


I turned on auto switching, and it works... most of the time. Now I'm trying to figure out a way to manually switch it without going through menus, dealing with the menus is pain using a harmony. I thought the big thing was "switch ratios at the touch of a button!" So far i can't figure that out.


----------



## ALMFamily

MrAngles said:


> I turned on auto switching, and it works... most of the time. Now I'm trying to figure out a way to manually switch it without going through menus, dealing with the menus is pain using a harmony. I thought the big thing was "switch ratios at the touch of a button!" So far i can't figure that out.


Odd - I have never had it not switch. I saved the settings for both formats and auto switching let me point to one of those saved settings when it discerned the incoming format.


----------



## MrAngles

It has left it in 2.40 mode a few times when I started a movie or was in the PS3's menu system. I was really confused why the top of everybody's heads were cut off in the Avengers for a few minutes.


----------



## ALMFamily

The menu system part makes sense to me - every time I bring up one of the menus, it swaps back to 1.85 from a 2.39 movie.

I have also seen where the previews for a movie are in a different format than the movie itself. However, it always seems to swap when the actual movie starts for me....


----------



## MrAngles

ALMFamily said:


> The menu system part makes sense to me - every time I bring up one of the menus, it swaps back to 1.85 from a 2.39 movie..


Right, that's what it *should* do, but that's not happening, it stays in 2.40 while it's in the 16x9 menu. Not all the time, but sometimes.


----------



## ALMFamily

MrAngles said:


> Right, that's what it *should* do, but that's not happening, it stays in 2.40 while it's in the 16x9 menu. Not all the time, but sometimes.


Huh - that is odd. Any of you other 8000 owners having that issue?


----------



## foraye

MrAngles said:


> Right, that's what it should do, but that's not happening, it stays in 2.40 while it's in the 16x9 menu. Not all the time, but sometimes.


Have you tried to re-teach your memory settings...Id clear things out and retry.


----------



## MrAngles

I turned the auto switching off then back on, erased my presets and created new ones, nothing fixes it. It seems to work most of the time, just once in a while it doesn't switch. I assumed that this is to be expected with any kind of auto detection system, which is why I figured there would be a remote button to switch it. I set up some soft keys on my harmony 900 to help with it now, but it's still a pain.

On another note, I've fallen asleep down there a few times now, to wake up at 4 AM to a giant blue screen on my wall. Is there no no signal shut down option on this projector?


----------



## foraye

MrAngles said:


> On another note, I've fallen asleep down there a few times now, to wake up at 4 AM to a giant blue screen on my wall. Is there no no signal shut down option on this projector?


Take a look in the OPTIONS menu >> SLEEP function...you can set a sleep timer for up to 240mins.

I think you can also set the FUNCTION button on the remote to do lens memory load.

GL


----------



## MrAngles

foraye said:


> Take a look in the OPTIONS menu >> SLEEP function...you can set a sleep timer for up to 240mins.
> 
> I think you can also set the FUNCTION button on the remote to do lens memory load.
> 
> GL


That's a great option if I PLAN to sleep on the couch. I was hoping for something like what my panasonic plasmas have, where it shuts down after five minutes of activity. 

I've messed around with the function button, which is a really cool option that they included, but the most it will do is take me to the lens menu, so I may as well just hit the lens button twice and keep the function button assigned to the 3D menu for quickly changing 3D formats.


----------



## foraye

Sounds like you got it all figured out then...


----------



## MrAngles

Well, I had hoped that there were more options available. I'm starting to look into rs232 control which does allow for more direct control, such as discrete on/off controls, discrete input commands and direct one-command switches between lens memory presets. Then I have to decide whether not going through menus to switch stuff is worth $80 for an IR to serial converter though.


----------



## MrAngles

For anyone who's wondering still about the third year of warranty, I just got an email confirming mine. I submitted my rebate a little over six months ago.


----------



## hjones4841

MrAngles said:


> For anyone who's wondering still about the third year of warranty, I just got an email confirming mine. I submitted my rebate a little over six months ago.


I also got mine by e-mail. I submitted mine in late November. Panny was really slow on all this!


----------



## cr136124

Ok. Ladies and gentlemen today I just hit 445 hours in the lamp and the performance of my Panasonic PT-AE8000 is still stellar. I had the chance to try multiple movies in 2D and 3D during this time and the picture quality is still stunning, just like the day it arrived. 

So, how are things going for you guys with your Panasonic? I hope all is well too!

:T


----------



## hjones4841

Much the same here, but mostly 2D. About the same number of hours as yours. Lovin' it


----------



## cr136124

Glad to hear that. This thread has been pretty quiet lately. So, I was wondering if it was due to all owners just having a blast with the PJ and without time to post their impressions after few months of ownership of the units..........

What lamp setting are you using? I'm using it with Eco and in most cases using REC 709 (plenty of light for my room/needs) for my picture mode. So, I should squeeze few more hours of life from the lamp (I hope). Of course, I'm still counting lamp prices will go down and as soon that happens I'll purchase a extra one.

Cheers!


----------



## Greenster

I am still saving money to buy one. For now I am running my old dim ptax100 Panasonic. I can't wait until I get one. For now I keep a watchful eye on this thread.


----------



## cr136124

^^^

Nice, nothing better to take your time and leave the rush behind. If you can keep waiting for a few more months, then you will be able to see what Panasonic is bringing to the table on new models for 2014. Which in most cases means, price cuts on the current models. 

So, you might ended up with a great deal on a 8000. In any case, enjoy your current projector and hopefully in not time, you will be part of the family of owners of this unit. Or perhaps the 2014 model....?

;o)


----------



## MrAngles

I don't remember how many hours I have on my unit, but quite a few of those hours have just been projecting a blank blue screen after I fall asleep. I've been using eco mode for 2D stuff and normal mode for 3D stuff, projected on a primed wall. Even normal mode is too dim for certain 3D movies on my "screen," but for 2D eco mode looks great. I also set up a seat in my rear seating row while figuring out dimensions for my riser, and even sitting directly in front and maybe three feet below the projector, I don't notice the fan noise at all in eco mode.


----------



## cr136124

^^^

Well, after my son left the Panny on all night (he was watching movies with his friends and they forgot to turn it off), I decided to use/activate the "sleep" function in the projector. If I recall correctly, I think my Panny is now set to "Turn power off after 210 minutes."

That was more like 3 months ago, and since then everything is working just fine. So, save some hours on the lamp by using this function.

Cheers!


----------



## MrAngles

cr136124 said:


> ^^^
> 
> Well, after my son left the Panny on all night (he was watching movies with his friends and they forgot to turn it off), I decided to use/activate the "sleep" function in the projector. If I recall correctly, I think my Panny is now set to "Turn power off after 210 minutes."
> 
> That was more like 3 months ago, and since then everything is working just fine. So, save some hours on the lamp by using this function.
> 
> Cheers!


I've used the sleep function a few times now when I could already tell I was going to fall asleep, but as far as I know it's not a persistent setting that turns it off after a specific amount of time every time you turn it on, it just works that once.

A no-signal time-out function like most tvs have would be great.


----------



## daddieo

My dedicated HT is in it's final stages and I plan to install a 106" acoustical screen with a 1.3 gain and a seating distance of 10'9" for front row. By all specs I have seen this is with-in allowable limits. But... in real world application is there going to be any issues with 3D veiwing?
Thanks!


----------



## mcascio

cr136124 said:


> Glad to hear that. This thread has been pretty quiet lately. So, I was wondering if it was due to all owners just having a blast with the PJ and without time to post their impressions after few months of ownership of the units..........
> 
> What lamp setting are you using? I'm using it with Eco and in most cases using REC 709 (plenty of light for my room/needs) for my picture mode. So, I should squeeze few more hours of life from the lamp (I hope). Of course, I'm still counting lamp prices will go down and as soon that happens I'll purchase a extra one.
> 
> Cheers!


If most people are like me. I'm guessing they tend to spend less time in the theater during the summer due to the nice weather.

I've been using mine in Eco most and REC 709 for non-Pixar type animated movies. For 3D animation movies, I'll usually move to Dynamic mode.

My only fault of the projector is that when it's not in Eco mode, it's a little louder than I would have liked. Just a bit louder than the AE-4000U was. 

But it still produces a great picture in Eco mode.


----------



## daddieo

Does anyone know when new Panasonic PJ models hit the shelves and what will be the replacement for the AE8000U? What is the typical price drop and when should this happen regarding the AE8000U? If buying "last years model" when is there a, "best time" to get the best price?

Thanks


----------



## Todd Anderson

It's hard to predict release dates. Where are you located? A price drop might not get you the lowest deal... Shoot me a PM


----------



## daddieo

I haven't pulled the trigger on getting the Ae8000U as of yet but plan to do so in about 1-2 months once my HT project is close to being ready for it. One thing I was wondering about is the 2D-3D conversion and how well it works. I can't imagine it to be as good as an actual 3D film but Panny's site and spec's talk it up. So here is the question for all you current owners: On a sliding scale, 10 being great and 1 being , what is your opinion of the 2D-3D conversion?

Thanks for any input. This point won't sway me in any way I was just curious!


----------



## MrAngles

daddieo said:


> Does anyone know when new Panasonic PJ models hit the shelves and what will be the replacement for the AE8000U? What is the typical price drop and when should this happen regarding the AE8000U? If buying "last years model" when is there a, "best time" to get the best price?
> 
> Thanks


I found it unwatchable when I tried it. I'm not a huge fan of 3D in the first place though, there are only four or five movies that I prefer in 3D.


----------



## Greenster

So what would those four be?


----------



## MrAngles

Greenster said:


> So what would those four be?


Silent Hill Revelation is great in 3D, so is Dredd, I thought Resident Evil Afterlife was a horrible movie in 2d, but in 3D it's a lot of fun. I haven't seen Drive Angry in 3D yet but I imagine it will be great. Other than that I think animated movies are pretty cool in 3D, in particular Wreck-it-Ralph has is great. 

The movie I was most disappointed with in 3D was Promethius. With such a visual movie I expected it to be great in 3D but I just wished I was watching it in 2d the whole time.


----------



## Greenster

Thanks for the input. I will have to check them out.


----------



## MrAngles

I'm just starting to look into rs232 control for the 8000 and was hoping to test it out with a PC before I shell out the money for automation equipment. I have the commands from the manual and instructions to add STX and ETX to the beginning and end of the command, but I haven't been able to get a response from the projector yet through hyperterminal or termite. Has anyone here done this with a terminal emulator? I'd appreciate some tips, particularly a full example command screen to send from hyperterminal.


----------



## MrAngles

MrAngles said:


> I'm just starting to look into rs232 control for the 8000 and was hoping to test it out with a PC before I shell out the money for automation equipment. I have the commands from the manual and instructions to add STX and ETX to the beginning and end of the command, but I haven't been able to get a response from the projector yet through hyperterminal or termite. Has anyone here done this with a terminal emulator? I'd appreciate some tips, particularly a full example command screen to send from hyperterminal.


Nevermind, I figured it out, using a USB to serial cable from Monoprice vs the serial port on my old laptop dock solved my problem.


----------



## nezff

I pulled the trigger on the panny 8000 on cyber Monday. I finally received it last night and fired it only to have a green or greenish blue blob in the middle of the picture. 

Ill give PJ People a call tomorrow and hopefully get a replacement. I have been pulling my hair out lately deciding on whether or not to get the Epson 5030 instead. The panny has better input lag but the Epson has a better warranty with advance replacement etc..

I got the panny with a $550 rebate which puts it $700ish under the Epson. I just don't think the Epson is that much better.


----------



## nezff

Got the new Panny 8000 replacement unboxed. Did a temp setup on a ladder and a 92 inch bedsheet.The Panny 8000 was roughly16'10-17 feet back from the sheet. Going by the calculator on a 92 inch screen, it stated I should mount it 9-18 feet back. I measured it from the ladder to the screen after I took everything down. Meant to ask, I ran Pacific Rim from my WD passport through my Sony S580, then to my Marantz 8801, then finally to the PJ. I noticed a somewhat soap opera effect or fake effect like when a certain setting is turned on. Is there a way to turn this off or is this just built in?
Sorry for the quality, snapped these real quick with the iPhone 5

Here are my results:


----------



## Todd Anderson

Looking good. Congrats on the new gear!

That soap opera effect means one of the image modes is engaged. I'm not sure what Panny calls it... JVC calls it "clear motion drive." Everyone has their own preferences... but I prefer to leave mine off and watch the film at its native frame rate. You'll have to play around with it and see what you like best.

You had asked about the benefit of a 2.40:1 vs 1.85:1 screen... if you look at your photo, a 2.40 screen (if lowered a bit) would give you a much larger image for cinemascope movies than the screen you currently have. That's the upside. The downside is that your 1.85:1 image is going to be smaller.

I had similar choices to make with my space and opted for the 2.40 screen and haven't regretted it one bit. But, it's all personal preference!

Congrats again... that's quite a space you have there!


----------



## nezff

Todd Anderson said:


> Looking good. Congrats on the new gear!
> 
> That soap opera effect means one of the image modes is engaged. I'm not sure what Panny calls it... JVC calls it "clear motion drive." Everyone has their own preferences... but I prefer to leave mine off and watch the film at its native frame rate. You'll have to play around with it and see what you like best.
> 
> You had asked about the benefit of a 2.40:1 vs 1.85:1 screen... if you look at your photo, a 2.40 screen (if lowered a bit) would give you a much larger image for cinemascope movies than the screen you currently have. That's the upside. The downside is that your 1.85:1 image is going to be smaller.
> 
> I had similar choices to make with my space and opted for the 2.40 screen and haven't regretted it one bit. But, it's all personal preference!
> 
> Congrats again... that's quite a space you have there!




thanks. Ill be playing a lot of games and watching blurays. I know games are in 16x9.


----------



## ovillegas

I just bought my PT-AE8000U too! Now I just need to finish my basement!!:gulp:

I did a DIY 102" 16:9 screen using BOC, and after seeing that green spot in your picture, I ran downstairs and unboxed my PJ and tested it with my laptop using the HDMI port (I got my PJ from the same place). Mine did not have that issue, and now I don't want to put the PJ back in its box but I don't have a finished space to put the 102" screen 

This week I'm going to start finishing my basement to start my HT.

I just saw your picture and I'm so tempted to just use a bed sheet to use the projector instead of my TV!!!


----------



## nezff

ovillegas said:


> I just bought my PT-AE8000U too! Now I just need to finish my basement!!:gulp:
> 
> I did a DIY 102" 16:9 screen using BOC, and after seeing that green spot in your picture, I ran downstairs and unboxed my PJ and tested it with my laptop using the HDMI port (I got my PJ from the same place). Mine did not have that issue, and now I don't want to put the PJ back in its box but I don't have a finished space to put the 102" screen
> 
> This week I'm going to start finishing my basement to start my HT.
> 
> I just saw your picture and I'm so tempted to just use a bed sheet to use the projector instead of my TV!!!


here is the new unit they sent me. sorry for the iPhone 5 pics and 92 inch bedsheet.


----------



## jdhatfield

Hi all, I'm having some ghosting issues in 3D mode with the 8000U. Is there a good way to calibrate it out? It isn't terrible but still somewhat noticeable on some movies.


----------



## MrAngles

jdhatfield said:


> Hi all, I'm having some ghosting issues in 3D mode with the 8000U. Is there a good way to calibrate it out? It isn't terrible but still somewhat noticeable on some movies.


I don't know about everyone else, but I generally notice ghosting/crosstalk on any elements that pop out or sink in to the picture particularly far when the projector hasn't been running for that long. After I've finished a movie, going back to scenes that had noticable crosstalk towards the beginning of the movie ends up making them look much better to me.


----------



## jdhatfield

That's an interesting angle. Whenever I've had reason to recalibrate the audio with Audyssey, I'll usually pop in Prometheus to watch/hear the opening sequence (ripped pasty guy that has one too many alien protein shakes and explodes into a million DNA altering pieces). In the first several scenes the camera pans over some terrain that has tracks of snow. I have noticed that sometimes the ghosting is really, really bad along the lines of snow and other times it isn't that bad. I'll try to pay better attention to how long the projector is on the next time. Has anyone done any calibrating of the 3D settings or does everyone pretty much take the stock settings for the projector?


----------



## Medi0gre

jdhatfield said:


> Has anyone done any calibrating of the 3D settings or does everyone pretty much take the stock settings for the projector?


Well I just bought this projector so... Hey guys! haha:yay: 
After much reading and much more to go... a fella HMenke, which I in turn have interpreted that he recommends and have yet to try, or even thought to try.

Lamp Normal
3d Eyewear brightness normal.
Using Dynamic mode, for the boost in brightness and in Dynamic mode you can adjust the sharpness to -2 
(default is 0) which seems to help with crosstalk.
Turning frame creation on to Mode 1 which will in turn allow you to enable 3d motion remaster.
Dynamic Iris OFF
Brightness +5
Detail Clarity +4
Sharpness 0
Super White Off
He also makes mention of taking advantage of using the picture memory settings, that way you can try different settings and compare. 

So when I and if I ever get home ill see if this improves on what I think is already a incredible picture, even though im projecting onto a painters tarp...:rofl:


----------



## Picture_Shooter

I own the AE3000 and I seen the AE8000 in action. 
For sure the colors on the AE8000 are much better contrast and the blacks are deeper as you would see on a nice DLP. Once I have more funds I would love to get the AE8000 for my next PJ!!


----------



## RBTO

MrAngles said:


> I don't know about everyone else, but I generally notice ghosting/crosstalk on any elements that pop out or sink in to the picture particularly far when the projector hasn't been running for that long. After I've finished a movie, going back to scenes that had noticable crosstalk towards the beginning of the movie ends up making them look much better to me.


Those elements you mentioned are the ones that have the greatest horizontal separation on the screen (take a look without the glasses) so they become more noticeable (especially with dark objects on a light background or visa versa). Some people often think certain BD players are better than others relative to ghosting, but ghosting is_ totally_ an artifact of the _viewing system_ since there aren't any ghosts in the two signals sent out of the BD player (I've looked at them with a demultiplexer and each is as good as a 2D image).

The AE8000 is an LCD projector and in LCD 3D displays, the main issue leading to ghosting is how fast the LCDs can switch between the left image and the corresponding right image (they have to do this rapidly in sync with the shutter glasses). If they don't switch fast enough, some of the opposite channel can "leak" through causing ghosting. It can also be a function of the 3D glasses since they have the same task. Another factor is the extinction ratio your projector/glasses combination achieves when they should be blocking light to your eye. Ideally 100% of the light from the opposite channel should be blocked when the shutter glass lens is in its opaque state, but that doesn't happen in the real world.

You mentioned that ghosting seems to decrease later in the movie. That could be due to the LCDs warming up which will increase their speed. Cold LCDs can be slower and lead to more ghosting, but as the "show goes on" their speed will increase and they can do a better job of switching back and forth between the right and left channel images. Changing glasses can have an effect since some glasses do a better job than others, but you're pretty much stuck with a given projector (I'm not knocking the AE8000 - it's a _great_ 3D projector). In any case, don't keep your glasses in a cold area before watching or it will degrade their operation until they warm up, and maybe give your projector a little warm-up time before the main feature starts.


----------



## NBPk402

Well I should have a Panny AE8000 this next weekend. I just purchased a used one with less than 100 hours on the projector, over 2 years left on a transferrable warranty. This should work out very well for our 14' wide screen in the new HT room. The biggie on purchasing this one was the power zoom, focus, and memory features. It will be nice to have the picture automatically zoom in. Does anyone know how you would setup power masking for the screen to automatically change the masking when you select a 2.35 movie? Will the projector send a signal or does it run off of my pc... ?


----------



## Archaea

MrAngles said:


> I found it unwatchable when I tried it. I'm not a huge fan of 3D in the first place though, there are only four or five movies that I prefer in 3D.


I agree with this. So far of the 3d movies I've tried I've only liked Avatar and Gravity. 

I've watched three in the last week or two and though halfway through I'd rather be watching this in 2d.
Men in Black 3, Despicable Me, Pirates of the Caribbean On Stranger Tides.

One other thing - I have two sets of glasses with my AE8000U. One pair is a cheap set of Incrediview, One pair is a Sony pair. The Sony pair is quite a bit better tha the Incrediview - the incrediview are blurry by comparison. I've wondered if the actual Panasonic glasses would be better than the Sony PS3 glasses I have?


----------



## RBTO

Archaea said:


> I agree with this. So far of the 3d movies I've tried I've only liked Avatar and Gravity.
> 
> I've watched three in the last week or two and though halfway through I'd rather be watching this in 2d.
> Men in Black 3, Despicable Me, Pirates of the Caribbean On Stranger Tides.
> 
> One other thing - I have two sets of glasses with my AE8000U. One pair is a cheap set of Incrediview, One pair is a Sony pair. The Sony pair is quite a bit better tha the Incrediview - the incrediview are blurry by comparison. I've wondered if the actual Panasonic glasses would be better than the Sony PS3 glasses I have?


It's quite possible your glasses are responsible for some problems. Glasses are fairly specific to the display being watched and contribute more to the viewing experience than you might expect (as you found out in comparing the incrediview to the PS3 glasses). They have to switch efficiently, quickly, and in step with the display, plus their optical quality needs to be good. It's always a good idea to use glasses matched to your display (i.e., Panasonic for Panasonic, etc.). Of course, the only way you'll know if Panasonic glasses are better is to try a pair, but it might be worth it. Let us know if you do so and what results you obtain.


----------



## nezff

I just put my Panasonic 8000 brand new in the box up for sale guys. It will be for sale here in the classifieds and over at AVS.
Pm me for details and info. I have a Seymour XD material 125" 16x9 screen for sale also.
Sorry for thread crapping.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...-panasonic-ptae8000-projector.html#post800250


----------



## byancey

*How to tell if my Dynamic Iris is working properly...*

Longtime member of another popular Home Theater forum, first post here. Not sure how it took me so long to discover HTS. 

The behavior of the dynamic iris on my PT-AE8000U has changed in a noticeable way since I first purchased it back in April. I'm trying to determine if the previous behavior was correct, or the current. As I don't have a second projector to compare with, I'm hoping to get some input from other PT-AE8000U owners regarding how the DI behaves on their projector.

The first content I view on a new projector is typically the opening scene of Lord of the Rings Two Towers, Extended Edition. During this opening scene where the screen is completely black and we only hear the narrator’s voice, I immediately noticed the impact of the dynamic iris, as the light output of the projector dropped significantly and the screen got very dark. When "Lord of the Rings" title comes up on the screen several seconds later, the light output immediately "popped" to a much higher level. I recall thinking at the time that the DI was perhaps a bit more aggressive than I would like. However, during the rest of the movie I don't recall seeing any other drastic changes in the DI...but I do recall thinking how great the black levels were. In other movies I do recall noting subtle changes in light output due to DI, but felt this was generally an acceptable trade-off for the resulting black levels.

Cut to present. I've been a bit distracted by some remodeling work I've been doing in my HT over the past month, so it's been a while since I've sat down and watched a movie. However, I recently popped in LOTR and watched the opening scene again. I immediately noticed two things. First, in the opening completely black scene I was able to detect the bars on the top and bottom velvet masking I use for scope. I have never noticed the bars before when the masking was up (still can't detect them in lighter scenes...but they are detectable even over the velvet in very dark scenes). Second, I realized that I'm no longer seeing dimming behavior that I noticed when I first watched this scene on my PT-AE800U. The black opening screen does not get very dark, and there's no brightness "pop" when the LOTR title comes up. I've gone back and watched several movies, and even when I try I'm completely unable to detect any brightness changes due to the DI. However, if I pause the image and toggle DI on and off, I do see subtle difference in the image. On a dark scene bright areas appear to get brighter, dark areas do not appear to get any darker. In a completely dark image, there is a slight very subtle change. I can tell something is happening, but I couldn't say that light output has been reduced...and I'm certainly not seeing the impact on light output that I observed when the projector was new. I know that part of the DI function is an adjustment to gamma, so it's possible what I'm seeing is a gamma adjustment with no corresponding iris adjustment. 

As I think back now, I also recall two times about a month ago when I had a movie paused for an extended period of time and the screen saver on my Bluray player kicked in. The light output dropped and the screen got very very dark to the point where the bouncing Samsung logo was barely visible. The projector was stuck in this state even when I restarted the movie. The problem went away when the projector was turned off and back on. As I said, I saw this twice about a month ago, and haven't seen it again since. Almost forgot about it...but now I wonder if the change in DI behavior might have been related to those two events.

Long background, but even with all that, I'm not certain if the previous behavior was normal or the current behavior is normal. I would prefer it if the black bars didn't become visible over my masking in dark scenes, but if I hadn't specifically noted the behavior when the projector was new, I wouldn't necessarily suspect something was wrong based on the current behavior.

Any owners out there who can comment on how well the dynamic iris works for them in very dark or completely dark scenes? If you're looking for it, do you see a perceptible drop in light output as a result of the operation of the DI? If you happen to own LOTR Extended Edition, would love to hear input base on that opening scene.

Thanks!


----------



## RBTO

I can't comment directly on the 8000 since I have the AE-2000, but my dynamic iris work similarly to what you described for your earlier experience. If the screen is totally black, it closes and significantly drops the black level but if any titles or video come on, the iris opens and the black background will lighten slightly (still pretty good for LCD). I have LOTHR and will try my projector on opening scene tonight and get back to you. In thinking back about the iris operation, I've only noticed its effect on a totally dark screen which it makes even darker. I haven't noticed any effects with anything on the screen though it may be that I just wasn't looking for them.


----------



## byancey

RBTO said:


> I can't comment directly on the 8000 since I have the AE-2000, but my dynamic iris work similarly to what you described for your earlier experience. If the screen is totally black, it closes and significantly drops the black level but if any titles or video come on, the iris opens and the black background will lighten slightly (still pretty good for LCD).


Thanks for the feedback. Even though it's an earlier model, at least it re-enforces generally expected behavior of the DI on the PT-AE line. It's a good data point.



> I have LOTHR and will try my projector on opening scene tonight and get back to you.


Look forward to hearing your observations. 



> In thinking back about the iris operation, I've only noticed its effect on a totally dark screen which it makes even darker. I haven't noticed any effects with anything on the screen though it may be that I just wasn't looking for them.


I guess ideally you don't want to notice it, otherwise it distracts from the movie. That's probably why so many folks run with DI turned off. I generally didn't notice it when watching movies other than that initial impression with the opening scene in LOTR, and I do recall being able to register it in certain dark to light or light to dark scene transitions if I was specifically looking for it (and sometimes even when I wasn't looking for it). Currently, other than the slight change in a paused image when I toggle the DI on or off, I'm completely unable to detect any changes in light output while watching a movie...even if I'm looking for it.

I found this relevant segment from a review of the PT-AE8000U over at projectorreviews.com:



> Panasonic has a very smooth dynamic iris. It would rarely be noticeable, unless you are looking for its action.
> 
> Okay, it is detectable, sure. They all are when you do look, but it performs very well on really dark scenes like the submarine scenes in Hunt for Red October, and performs rather well in those tough scenes where the overall scene is consistently fairly dark (like dark paneled walls as a backdrop, and a person in a white shirt walking in and out of the scene). That type of scene is very tough on most DI’s but the PT-AE8000 handles those scenes better than most.


That seems to re-enforce the idea that if I look for it, I should be able to detect it if it's working, but I can't. That and the fact that I'm suddenly able to see the bars in dark scenes even on my masking leads me to believe there's an issue with my DI. The expected drop in light output in a very dark scene would tend to hide those bars (which are otherwise invisible in brighter scenes simply due to the relative contrast between the brighter image and the dark bars). 

EDIT: I went back and played a bit more with toggling DI on and off in various scenes. The changes in light output are nowhere near as dramatic as what I recall when the projector was new, but turning on DI is making a difference in the image, and it is definitely an improvement. On a completely dark scene (paused), the image gets ever so subtlety blacker. On a mostly dark image with some bright spots, turning on DI does not appear to impact the back levels, and there is no perceptible indication that the light output from the projector has dropped, but it does increase the bright portions of the image relative to the black...effectively increasing the contrast...which is what DI is supposed to do. With DI on, the shadow details also appear to be greater. To be perfectly honest, if it wasn't for the fact that I'd seen such vastly different behavior when the projector was new, I don't think I would even suspect anything was wrong...but something did change, so either it was malfunctioning before, and it's now working correctly or vice-versa. [END EDIT]

I welcome any other observations relevant to the DI from owners of the PT-AE8000U as well. If possible I'd like a few more data points before I make the service call.

Thanks!

--
Bryce


----------



## byancey

A user over at AVS Forum pointed me to the key sequence used to activate the hidden service menu on the AE800U (from the power-down dialog, press up, down, up, down, and then enter). The Self Diagnostic reports that all is OK with the mechanical operation of the iris.

There's no question that the operation of the DI has changed since I first purchased the projector, however, I do recall thinking back then that the operation of the DI in very dark scenes was perhaps overly aggressive, particularly with how the light levels continued to drop gradually in extended dark scenes and then suddenly and noticeably "popped" from very dark to much lighter in some dark to bright scene transitions. Perhaps it was misbehaving early on and has now settled in and is working normally.

As for the black bars that I started to notice, I went back yesterday and while I can notice them, it is very subtle and only visible in completely dark scenes that last for more than a few seconds (enough time for the eyes to adjust). There's no question that an overly aggressive iris in those dark scenes would likely have helped to hide those bars early on, but otherwise, I did switch from an older projector (AX100U) with a used bulb to a new projector with a new bulb that is also 400 lumens brighter. Given that, the subtle bars on the masking that I'm able to detect in extended dark scenes may not be unexpected.

Would still love to hear any other owner reports on operation of their DI in extremely dark scenes, but for the moment I'm going to assume that the DI on my AE8000U is now operating normally.

Thanks!


----------



## RBTO

I took a look at LOTR last night and it was just as you described. The opening which was totally dark had visible light on the screen (very little with no discernment of the upper and lower black bars). When the main title came on, I couldn't see any change in the dark background but when the image appeared, the background looked even darker. I think this was pretty much a subjective effect, but I really couldn't see any perceptual operation of the iris which is what you want.

One question - any chance you might have changed the video mode of your projector? I use Cinema 1 on mine but I noticed that other modes have an effect on the background (especially dynamic mode which I really dislike).

It sound's like your iris is operating the way it's supposed to now though I don't know what to tell you about your noticing increased levels on the black bars.


----------



## byancey

RBTO said:


> I took a look at LOTR last night and it was just as you described. The opening which was totally dark had visible light on the screen (very little with no discernment of the upper and lower black bars). When the main title came on, I couldn't see any change in the dark background but when the image appeared, the background looked even darker. I think this was pretty much a subjective effect, but I really couldn't see any perceptual operation of the iris which is what you want.


You may have missed the post I made earlier this morning. Made some more observations and ran a diagnostic from the hidden service menu. At this point I'm convinced my projector was malfunctioning out of the box and is now operating normally. Your results pretty much confirm that in my mind.




> It sound's like your iris is operating the way it's supposed to now though I don't know what to tell you about your noticing increased levels on the black bars.


Have a theory regarding why I noticed the black bars in my post above as well.

Thanks!


----------



## xtinkshun

, So Frustrated. I purchased a Panasonic 8000 projector 1 year ago along with 6 pairs of glasses TY-EW3D3MU (2 small pairs for the kids a 4 mediums for the adults and bigger child). I also purchased a Denon 4311CI AVR and a Seymour 130" curved 2:37:1 screen. I became very ill and required a heart transplant. Well, I am finally healthy enough and have been building a home theater. I setup my screen yesterday and couldn't wait to use it. (The kids picked a movie, non 3-d) everything seemed to play ok but I did notice every few minutes the screen would "black out" and then start projecting again. Sorta like it lost its handshake. The next morning I was having the same issues. I was also trying 3d movies as well. The cable I had connected is a Amazon Basics cable http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-...&qid=1407479719&sr=1-6&keywords=3d+hdmi+cable These cables also cause the picture to lose hand shake and go black for a few minutes before the picture returns. Most all my movies are stored on my Hard Drives, I use software to play 2d and 3d however,3D movies will NOT play. 

Then tried a Monoprice cable, pretty thick with nylons shielding. It will play 2d very well (no drop, or loss of picture) but will not play 3d. I tried watching a 3D movie with the larger monoprice cable but I never had to option to allow for 3D. (my projector would not allow for 2d-3d option so I assume the HDMI cable is NOT 3D compliant) I selected 3D via Power DVD 10 which worked however I had NO option to select 3D via my projector. 
I can switch from 2d to 3d mode when I start a movie, lets say monsters vs. Aliens. When I use the Panasonic 8000 remote and choose 3d it will show a 3d picture. (but my glasses do not recognize a 3D picture, they act like they are in 2D mode) It will switch to 3D mode but before I can even put the remote down the screen flickers again (same handshake loss) and automatically returns to 2D mode. WTH! 

Please let me know if I should install different software to watch 2d and/or 3D movies or If I should purchase different cables. ( I have the thick monoprice and thinner Amazon basics) neither work for 3D. The Amazon basics cable will not even work in 2D without constantly losing pic, switching from black to picture and back again. Very irritating. Can you list what type of cable I should purchase? OR is a new projector needed?

OR, do I need different 3D glasses? 



********help, friends stopping over to watch a movie ************

*************FRUSTRATED******************



p.s. I have a 3D tv at home 42" and the same 3D movies work just fine and I'm using the cheap $9 best buy glasses. I should have brought a pair up to test.


----------



## xtinkshun

UPDATE: I connected my 3D blu ray player and Avatar worked just fine, NO issues. So it may not be a projector issue. However I am still having drop outs when I watch standard movies via my HTPC. I'll post there as well in case other have this issue. I use the same movies/software on my t.v. with NO problems.
Maybe the drop out is caused due to the video card on my htpc connected to my Denon then passed to the projector. I dunno.


----------



## RBTO

xtinkshun said:


> UPDATE: I connected my 3D blu ray player and Avatar worked just fine, NO issues. So it may not be a projector issue. However I am still having drop outs when I watch standard movies via my HTPC. I'll post there as well in case other have this issue. I use the same movies/software on my t.v. with NO problems.
> Maybe the drop out is caused due to the video card on my htpc connected to my Denon then passed to the projector. I dunno.


I seriously doubt the issue is with your projector. I have seen a good number of posts about issues with HTPC systems and 3D so I would suggest the problem lies there. Cables can be an issue but there is no such thing as a 3D compliant cable. Any high speed HDMI cable worth its salt should handle 3D as well as 2D, although any existing problems will be exacerbated due to the higher data rate of 3D (it is a bit more demanding that way).

Your projector is expecting a full-HD 3D signal (frame packed 3D). I'm not familiar with 3D video cards, but I know a good number are incapable of frame packed 3D. I believe your projector should also handle side-by-side 3D which most video cards are capable of, but which might pose an issue with the Denon since it is designed to handle frame packed 3D. Try bypassing the AVR and see if you get 3D.

How long are your cables between your computer and the projector? There's a length limitation for HDMI and some cables are better than others in this respect, so long cables could have contributed to your first problem (bad 2D and no 3D). The 3D issue deserves more study however, so begin by eliminating the AVR as a fault in the system (by bypassing it). If your video card is sending a side-by-side (SBS) 3D signal, that could well explain the problem. If you are sending a SBS signal and the Denon can't handle it, you'll need to look at the video card and find one capable of frame packed 3D (or contact Denon or one of the Denon forums and see if there's a work-around).


----------



## xtinkshun

I tried by passing my Denon AVR and connecting directly from my p.c. to my projector. The dropouts were fewer but still present. The other problem was when I tried to play Avatar in 3D, my projector option to switch from 2D-3D was unavailable. I updated my graphics card software and it's still having problems. Everything works fine when playing through my blu ray player including 3D so its definitely something with my p.c. Im going to reinstall PowerDVD 12 and see if that corrects the issue. If not, Ill bring my other HTPC from my other home and see if it does the same thing. The only difference is this p.c. uses a Gforce card while my p.c. at home uses a Radeon card. All the HDMI cables are 2M so length isn't an issue. I do have a 3M HDMI for my projector.


----------



## RBTO

xtinkshun said:


> ............. The other problem was when I tried to play Avatar in 3D, my projector option to switch from 2D-3D was unavailable.............


It sound's like your video card may be sending an SBS 3D signal to your projector. AN SBS 3D signal looks just like a 2D signal except that the left and right images are side-by-side (just as the description says), and compressed to fit (you lose half your horizontal resolution). The projector may think this is a 2D signal and doesn't show the 3D option. You should be able to find a projector menu option where you can tell the projector it's getting SBS although you probably don't want to run your 3Ds this way since you're losing image quality.

I know in a lot of HTPC discussions, getting full HD 3D going can be an issue, but I'm not knowledgeable with that topic. If your blu-ray player is working ok (it sends a frame packed 3D signal), it is most likely a computer issue. You're right that the cable lengths you mentioned shouldn't be a problem. It also sound's like you've eliminated the Denon for the most part. Do you get any dropouts when you run your bly-ray player through the Denon and on to your projector? If not, the computer is the culprit.


----------



## xtinkshun

Well. Here is what I have learned today. When I connect my p.c. hdmi directly to my t.v. my movies play fine via PowerDVD. (no dropouts) tv is not 3D so I cannot test that. When I connect back to my Denon hdmi (input) it starts dropping the connection. ie, my movie blacks in/out. ANNOYING. I still have sound but the picture blanks in/out. I can still play movies via my blu ray player just fine, even through my Denon to my tv. 
At first I thought it was my video card or PowerDVD, but now I think its my Denon hdmi ports but they cant ALL be defective, besides my blu ray player works. I disabled deep video on my video card via a previous suggestion. 

so, If I connect from my p.c. to my t.v. everything works fine. when I connect my pc back into my denon the drop outs start again. but ONLY via my p.c. my blu ray player works just fine. 
Im installing PowerDVD on my other computer which I will test with a different p.c. Im trying to eliminate one thing at a time. I could try my Marantz receiver and see if it plays. My mind is just spinning. Its not really a pc problem or my denon or my cables but it has to be one of the 3.


----------



## RBTO

It's an incompatibility between your computer video card and the Denon. The video card isn't putting out a standard HDMI signal which the Denon recognizes (apparently the TV _can_ accept it ok). With your Blu-ray player the signal is a standard HDMI format and all is well. Again, you'll have to do some research in some HTPS forums to get an answer. It probably isn't so much a software issue as it is a video card issue, and it's quite possible that a different card configuration will fix it (or not). If it's dropping out with 2D, it stands to reason, the same issue is affecting your 3D material as well. Stick with 2D until you have the issue resolved and then try 3D so you won't be fighting two different problems at once (if they actually are two different problems).


----------



## phillihp23

Seems to me its something with the pc that the denon receiver doesn't like.
As you stated the pc to tv works fine.
The blu-ray player to the denon works fine
I am assuming you are using the same hdmi cable and same hdmi port on the denon for testing.
If not you should be. As it could narrow down a possible hdmi cable issue.
Its the pc to the denon that doesn't work. So I would think its something to do with the PC software or hardware that the denon doesn't like.

You also might want to move this conversation to a new thread as it kinda hijacked the PT-AE8000U thread.


----------



## TomJay1979

Hi all,

just picked up my PT-AT6000E and have spent the past couple of weeks in awe of how good it looks, as of today I am at about 90 hours lamp use and have noticed something that im not sure has been there from day one or has happened as I have used the projector for a few hours.

I've noticed that blacks have a very slight red tinge to them - its not just in selected places it appears to be uniform over the whole image - I don't see it on any other colour other than when the projector is displaying a black image for example if I am watching a film in 2:35:1 ratio and I see the black bars at the top and bottom I can see it then.

I note that the lamp itself is Red Rich in the description and was wondering if this was simply the norm for this projector and was part of the pay off for having such incredible colours - I understand LCD projectors don't displaying pure ink black images anyway and although its by no means distracting I just wanted to be sure there is nothing wrong with my projector.

ANy thoughts or feedback would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## Yiannis1970

Hello..

You need to calibrate the projector in order to get rid of this tint. It's not an eye procedure (needs to be done using instrument) but to have an idea, find the color temperature menu for RGB (not CMS) and decrease the red value in ''offset''.


----------



## TomJay1979

many thanks for that - I think I can see in the instructions where i need to go - Im pleased its nothing wrong with the actually projector!


----------



## Yiannis1970

TomJay1979 said:


> many thanks for that - I think I can see in the instructions where i need to go - Im pleased its nothing wrong with the actually projector!


Page 45.

Decrease value on ''Brightness R''.


----------



## Greenster

I finally got me one of these. Upgrading from the ptax100u. I am very excited to see the difference between the two. 720 to 1080


----------



## jdent02

I received a new Panasonic PT-AE8000U a few weeks ago to use on a 2.35 Elite Sable screen. Right from the beginning I noticed what seemed to be a haze over the image that wasn't the result of focus. After putting up black velvet in the areas around the screen it has become even more noticeable, especially when bright objects are next to dark areas. I tried cleaning the front of the lens but that didn't do anything.

Is this something in the projector or the screen? Unfortunately I already tossed out the box for the projector so I'd rather not try to return it if I don't have to. :help:


----------



## RBTO

jdent02 said:


> I received a new Panasonic PT-AE8000U a few weeks ago to use on a 2.35 Elite Sable screen. Right from the beginning I noticed what seemed to be a haze over the image that wasn't the result of focus. After putting up black velvet in the areas around the screen it has become even more noticeable, especially when bright objects are next to dark areas. I tried cleaning the front of the lens but that didn't do anything.
> 
> Is this something in the projector or the screen? Unfortunately I already tossed out the box for the projector so I'd rather not try to return it if I don't have to. :help:


It could be an optical problem but it could also be "black level" (or "setup") if it's misadjusted. There should be a menu item for the latter and you might try reducing the black level to see if it helps. What is your source for the video? There could also be a problem with the source relative to black level (some DVD & BD players have a setting which affects the black level).

If it's an optical problem, you'll have to send in the projector since there's very little you can do to remedy the problem. You were correct in assuming a dirty lens could contribute to what you described, but if it's internal to the lens, it would be a problem covered under the projector's warranty. The AE8000 should give very good image quality without the problem you mention.

I doubt that your screen is the issue but you could try a white surface to see if the problem still exists just to rule out the screen.

Is this in 3D mode or 2D? Do you have the automatic iris enabled or disabled (disabling it could decrease the contrast significantly).


----------



## jdent02

It doesn't appear to be source related, as even the projector's own menus and test patterns halo when there's no input signal. For what it's worth I did check my settings and I have HDMI range set to 'normal' with super whites turned off. Auto iris is on. My blu ray player was sending a YPbCr 4:2:2 signal without any additional image enhancements. It'll do it in 2D and 3D mode, and after more examination the intensity doesn't even need to be that bright for it to happen. The best analogy I can come up with is it looks like there's a very light coat of vaseline on the lens. I can only assume this is negatively affecting the contrast and color as well.

I did some looking around online and others have reported the same problem developing after about 20 hours of use. I honestly can't remember if this bloom was always there on mine since up until last week I had some bad ceiling reflections partially washing out the picture (I have about 38 hours of use on mine). Plus it took me over a week to get over the "huge image" wow factor and really start examining the picture quality.

I've already taken the projector down so I can return it to Amazon. I'll be getting a replacement from B&H, since they're a fully authorized Panasonic retailer (Amazon apparently isn't). Crossing my fingers that the replacement doesn't have the same issue.


----------



## RBTO

You're right in assuming the worst, given the projector's own menu is showing the defect. There are a number of optical elements that could be causing the issue.

With Amazon, they second source a lot of items and it's likely that was the case with your projector (and unfortunately that second source wasn't an authorized dealer). B&H has higher prices but they are a very reputable outlet so you're doing well dealing with them.

Sorry to hear you're having this problem but hope you can resolve it to your satisfaction.


----------



## jdent02

Amazon sourced it from Visual Apex, which is an authorized dealer, but being that the sale was through Amazon I'm not sure if that affects anything. I got lucky in that B&H has it for the exact same price so no loss there.


----------



## phillihp23

jdent02 said:


> Amazon sourced it from Visual Apex, which is an authorized dealer, but being that the sale was through Amazon I'm not sure if that affects anything. I got lucky in that B&H has it for the exact same price so no loss there.


So did amazon take it back ? Or did you contact Visual Apex ? It sounds like you bought another one from B&H.
I know Visual Apex is local in WA. I purchased my screen and projector from them. Haven't had to return anything but they seem reputable.


----------



## jdent02

Yes, Amazon is taking it back for credit. I didn't directly contact visual apex.


----------



## jdent02

Well the new projector from B&H showed up today (free three day shipping, pretty nice perk). Within the first five minutes it became glaringly obvious that my old projector was much further out of whack then I thought, so much so I'm amazed it made it through quality checks in the first place. I'd think it wasn't even the same model since the new one looks SO much better. 

The old projector's image was hazy and impossible to focus in fully. It also had drab colors in most modes (especially Rec 709) and poor contrast (blacks were never anywhere near true black). The new one is brighter and razor sharp. The color is much more vibrant (in the same 709 mode) and the contrast is significantly better. Blacks still don't get to true black but it's a world of improvement.

Given how much better the image is on this new one I'm wondering if there was more wrong with my old one than just bad optics. I'll never know for sure but it's hard to believe that optics alone could account for the dramatic differences in color and contrast.

I'm still a bit guarded since I've read of the haze problem developing on these projectors after 20 or so hours of operation. I've got my fingers crossed as so far this new one is a real winner, and now I can see why it's so highly rated.


----------



## The3DLink

Jdent02,

I have the exact same issue with my AE8000! I've had it about a month and it seems to have gotten progressively worse. To be honest, I'm not sure if it was there the whole time. I noticed it around 10-15hrs on the lamp. The whole image looks washed out and hazy. There is a halo/blooming/bleeding of colors & brights into everything. Projector People agreed after seeing some pictures that the unit was defective, and are sending a replacement. I've been reading some similar problems with the newly manufactured units. I've read people have had their projector/optical block replaced multiple times before finally getting things right. I hope that's not the case for either of us! 

Keep us updated on how your new one performs!


----------



## 73shark

jdent02 said:


> Well the new projector from B&H showed up today (free three day shipping, pretty nice perk). Within the first five minutes it became glaringly obvious that my old projector was much further out of whack then I thought, so much so I'm amazed it made it through quality checks in the first place. I'd think it wasn't even the same model since the new one looks SO much better.
> 
> The old projector's image was hazy and impossible to focus in fully. It also had drab colors in most modes (especially Rec 709) and poor contrast (blacks were never anywhere near true black). The new one is brighter and razor sharp. The color is much more vibrant (in the same 709 mode) and the contrast is significantly better. Blacks still don't get to true black but it's a world of improvement.
> 
> Given how much better the image is on this new one I'm wondering if there was more wrong with my old one than just bad optics. I'll never know for sure but it's hard to believe that optics alone could account for the dramatic differences in color and contrast.
> 
> I'm still a bit guarded since I've read of the haze problem developing on these projectors after 20 or so hours of operation. I've got my fingers crossed as so far this new one is a real winner, and now I can see why it's so highly rated.


Any update?


----------



## tonyvdb

I've got over 200 hrs on my AE 8000 and no issues at all. 
I wonder if his was dropped during shipping and everything was knocked out of whack.


----------

