# Need Part # Of Amp on/off switch



## The_Nephilim (Mar 3, 2010)

Hi Guys,

I am trying to determine the part Number for the On/Off Switch for my Buttkicker BKA-130 amp. I have the schematic and found the on/off switch in there but the number there does not seem to be associated with any switches I have looked for..

So here is the schematic for the BKA-130 Buttkicker amp if you can help me identify the On/Off switch for the Amp I would be greatfull.. 


https://1drv.ms/b/s!AgDOJnMP-19IhrJNZp1khch8iQMrVA?e=7acfs2


Thank you for looking hope you can help me out.. I do know for certain the switch is dead but the amp works fine as it has a remote button where I can turn off and on the amp and it works.. But the switch is broke..


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## The_Nephilim (Mar 3, 2010)

OK After putting this off I have definetely idetified the part for the On/Off Switch..

this is what the schematic says and I think this is the part number but I have looked at alot of switch shops and this number comes up empty:

* Part# 2WC8.35 *


I checked, ebay, Amazon, Ti Parts, Alibabba, chinese switch manufacturer, this part number does not come up. now I think I could run a jumper or with another type of switch but I want to find the OEM Part or as close as I can get..

If I put in a jumper I still have the remote to turn the amp off/on still.

where else can I source switches or electronic parts from?


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## Kal Rubinson (Aug 3, 2006)

Can you post the schematic so that one does not have to log on to a MS site in order to see it?


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## The_Nephilim (Mar 3, 2010)

I thought that was a Download link but it appears dead. so here is the PDF of it I uploaded it here..


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## Kal Rubinson (Aug 3, 2006)

It is a standard single-pole/single-throw AC switch which is common. I cannot tell from a schematic what its physical form is (toggle, rocker, etc.) but any physically matching that is rated for a US 120AC/15Amp line should be fine. I looked at pix on the web but none of them were good enough for me to see what it looks like. 

1. Did you ask Butt-Kicker for a replacement part?
2. Did you ask Parts Express (a Butt Kicker dealer) for a replacement part?


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## The_Nephilim (Mar 3, 2010)

OK I just emailed Buttkicker to see if they can either fix it or get me a replacement part for it.. I will recheck Parts Express and see if they have the power button I need..

So that was not the part number on the schematic?


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## Kal Rubinson (Aug 3, 2006)

The_Nephilim said:


> OK I just emailed Buttkicker to see if they can either fix it or get me a replacement part for it.. I will recheck Parts Express and see if they have the power button I need..
> 
> So that was not the part number on the schematic?


I didn't see any part number on the schematic. Even if it was there, it is likely to be a proprietary part number from the manufacturer even though it is more than likely a stock-standard, off-the-shelf switch.


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## The_Nephilim (Mar 3, 2010)

here are some pics.


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## Kal Rubinson (Aug 3, 2006)

The_Nephilim said:


> here are some pics.


Ugh. I don't know which of the two is the one in question but they are pretty cheesy plastic-body switches which, I am guessing from this and other pix, poke through a hole in the front panel but are entirely supported by their solder connections to the PC board.

1. To replace this, the best bet is to get the exact part from the amp manufacturer or from Parts-Express.
2. If it were mine, I'd just short the terminals (as you have done) and add an external AC switch. That would preclude a recurrence of the present problem.


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## The_Nephilim (Mar 3, 2010)

Well If I use a jumper I have a remote that connects to the amp and it has its own on/off and volume controlls. so If I use a jumper on the broken on/off switch the remote that plugs in will still be able to turn it off and on??

I did not short it out yet that part there holds the switch in place.. It looks like if I short that switch out the on/Off switch on the remote will still work so I will still have an on/Off switch on the remote part of it..

I just need to find a suitable wire for the shunt, there is a electronics store close by but will be closed Sunday so I will have to wait until Monday to go get the shunt if I can find something here.. thank you for all the help..


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## The_Nephilim (Mar 3, 2010)

Well I ran a shunt between the terminals and it turns on but the amp does not turn on the buttkicker, the light usually turns green but it is orange, normally it is green when on..I will have to recheck the schematic..


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## Kal Rubinson (Aug 3, 2006)

The_Nephilim said:


> Well If I use a jumper I have a remote that connects to the amp and it has its own on/off and volume controlls. so If I use a jumper on the broken on/off switch the remote that plugs in will still be able to turn it off and on??
> 
> I did not short it out yet that part there holds the switch in place.. It looks like if I short that switch out the on/Off switch on the remote will still work so I will still have an on/Off switch on the remote part of it..


I hope so.


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## The_Nephilim (Mar 3, 2010)

The_Nephilim said:


> Well I ran a shunt between the terminals and it turns on but the amp does not turn on the buttkicker, the light usually turns green but it is orange, normally it is green when on..I will have to recheck the schematic..


I am wondering if I need to put a jumper on all 4 terminals on the circuit board??


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## Kal Rubinson (Aug 3, 2006)

The_Nephilim said:


> I am wondering if I need to put a jumper on all 4 terminals on the circuit board??


I doubt it. It looks to me like the two pins on the left are connected via the PC trace and the two on the right as well. Seems that one jumper should work. I would test it with a circuit tester to see if this is true.


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## The_Nephilim (Mar 3, 2010)

Kal Rubinson said:


> I doubt it. It looks to me like the two pins on the left are connected via the PC trace and the two on the right as well. Seems that one jumper should work. I would test it with a circuit tester to see if this is true.



Well they are connected I am unsure what else to try or do, I guess I am just going to get a new amp at this point..


EDIT: I seen this is the Quick Start Guide, apparently the orange light means the amp is in Standby mode. but it says to press the on/off button to turn it on??


here is the FAQ:

Sometimes when I press the power button on the remote control, the BKA130-C power amplifier doesn’t seem to respond - why?

If the BKA-130-C power amplifier is in STANDBY mode (orange light), pressing the power
button will first switch it to the OFF mode. Simply press the power button again to turn the
amplifier ON and wait a few moments for the circuits to receive power. 


Usually if it is in standby and you send a signal to the amp through the soundcard it turns on automatically, I think I will connect the amp back and and see if I can get it to turn on automatically with a signal.. I did try that last night and it did not work..


EDIT: It did not work the orange light comes and and when I press the power button on the remote nothing happens and on the remote the liight is red showing it is off.. so no go..


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## The_Nephilim (Mar 3, 2010)

Well I was talking with a friend and he mentioned that is was probally a momentary switch. he said try and cut the jumper and touch the terminal with one and release it and voila it turned on no problem..

I just need to find out if that circuit there is 12volt and get a momentary switch to put in its place..


*EDIT: I found a switch and I can get it locally.. it was definetely 12volts at the switch I measured it with my volt meter. *


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## Kal Rubinson (Aug 3, 2006)

The_Nephilim said:


> Well I was talking with a friend and he mentioned that is was probally a momentary switch. he said try and cut the jumper and touch the termina with one and release it and voila it turned on no problem..
> 
> I just need to find out if that circuit there is 12volt and get a momentary switch to put in its place..


Then it is not the main AC switch in the schematic. There is another relay-operated switch in power circuit.
When the switch worked, how did you use it? Was it a push or a touch?


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## The_Nephilim (Mar 3, 2010)

Kal Rubinson said:


> Then it is not the main AC switch in the schematic. There is another relay-operated switch in power circuit.
> When the switch worked, how did you use it? Was it a push or a touch?


No it was the switch on the front of the amp it was just a pushbutton switch, I should have specified that. but either way with a little modification I should be able to get the new switch I found working with this amp..


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## The_Nephilim (Mar 3, 2010)

Well I found a site that has the switch Digi-key. so I am going to go this router and replace the switch:



https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/c-k/PTS645VH83-2-LFS/CKN9121-ND/1146776


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## The_Nephilim (Mar 3, 2010)

Well funny I showed this to some friends online and one of them said he had that switch. so he is going to mail it to me tomorrow for free I just have to unsolder it from the board as it is used..

Hopefully when I unsolder it I will not mess up the switch.. so at least now all I need to buy is a Buttkicker Transducer for my Futon and the wired needed.


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## The_Nephilim (Mar 3, 2010)

The part my friend sent me arrived this afternoon all I need to do is take out the old one put in the new one and voila it should be fully functional again.. I might go look for my desolderer tool and just finish it up right now..


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## The_Nephilim (Mar 3, 2010)

Well I had found the desolderer and fixed the amp. it works but I found out it is a 2ohm amp.. So when I buy the transducer for my Futon I need to get a 2 ohm which I believe was the mini concert 

Thank you for all the help..


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