# Car Stereo to Home Theater (Ported Box Plans Needed) I have pics



## Guest (Jun 12, 2007)

Well the topic pretty much sums it up. After having (2) RL-P 12" in a car for several years I have decided to put the subs inside the house. This frees up the space restrictions, and I have been enticed to build a ported box. So with all the experience most of you guys have on this board, I would appreciate some feedback or advice on building a ported box.

Here is some info about what i got/need
-I listen to mainly rap/R&B

-Would like a strong balance between Home Theatre Use and Music listening

-I will be using a EP2500 Amplifier (This gives me 500 watts if I run it at 8 ohms or 1200 watts if i choose to run it at 2 ohm) I would prefer to run it off 8 ohms and rely on a damm good box instead of power to extract everthing the sub has got.

-Relatively large room

-Slot port preferred

Let me know if there is anything else I haven't listed. I have been fumbling around with WINISD, but I'm embarrassed to admit I'm having trouble trying to get it working properly. :jiggy:


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## Guest (Jun 12, 2007)

*Re: Going from Car Stero To Home Theatre (Ported Box Plans Needed), I also have pics*

As promised here are the pics of the old set-up. It was in a Subaru Impreza with about 1.2^3 ft per sub. (Not nearly as much as I wanted but small trunk size prevented anything bigger. The frontstage are CDT Audio HD series powered by A US-Amps 600X. 2 RL-P's powered by a US AMP DE-1000





































See the DE hiding in the spare tire well? :R


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## Jerm357 (May 23, 2006)

*Re: Going from Car Stero To Home Theatre (Ported Box Plans Needed), I also have pics*

The RL-P12 Is a hard one to do ported. The problem is that it wants to see such a small box that its hard to fit a port in there. But playing around with Winisd, If you did two enclosures each with 3.5 cubic feet (net) with a 4" port tuned to 16hz fed with 450w each (The Ep2500 20hz-20kh rating at 8ohms) it does not look to bad. Im getting 113db at 17hz and about 117.7db at 80hz. The air velocity in the port should not be too bad since its just a few ms faster than my RL-P15 LLT and I have had no problem with mine. Now this is with two of these side by side or stacked on top of each other so you can take advantage of the 6db of gain from having two. Plus room gain will add a few more decibels. But do remember that these drivers are not the best choice for HT subs, But this design is not too bad at all.


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## WillyD (Sep 6, 2006)

*Re: Going from Car Stero To Home Theatre (Ported Box Plans Needed), I also have pics*

Do you have the D2 or the D4s?


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## Jerm357 (May 23, 2006)

Im guessing he has the D4 if he was going to try to get 500w from his Ep2500 in 8ohms.


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## WillyD (Sep 6, 2006)

Jerm357 said:


> Im guessing he has the D4 if he was going to try to get 500w from his Ep2500 in 8ohms.


Aye, that occurred to me.


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## Guest (Jun 13, 2007)

yeah that DVC 4Ohm. If going ported is that much of a hassle, i wonder if giving it the full 2 Cubic feet will give me better sound quality vs the 1.2 its sitting at now. Is going ported really that much of a constraint on this subwoofer :rolleyesno:


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## bonehead848 (Jan 21, 2007)

it shouldnt be, just make sure you plan carefully and it should be fine. Something else you could consider is making the ports outside the box, its usually not as pretty but maybe you could think something up. If you are wanting the extension of a ported box, as i would, then you can definitely find a way


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## Guest (Jul 28, 2007)

I couldn't help but to revive this thread with a little graphic depiction of the last statement.

This is an online acquaintance's box for 2 10" RF subs in a hatch back. The box was known as frankenport. I thought it was trendy


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## Blaser (Aug 28, 2006)

:holycow: What's that???


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## Guest (Jul 29, 2007)

This guy can definitely build a sub enclosure


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