# First HT Build-"Swinging for the Fences"



## pionkej (May 16, 2011)

I have a simliar post in my "Introduction" thread, but I thought I would take a few minutes to introduce myself. I have always wanted a good home theater to enjoy movies with, but the plan was to wait until the next house...plans change and I'm getting my home theater early! I come from a car audio background which started many years ago with basic gear and has evolved across years and cars to a full-blown SQ setup that I plan to compete with. From what I've researched, it seems outside of having more vibration issues and cabin-gain that kicks in earlier in the car, not too much is different between it and home audio. I won't clog this thread with work I've done to "qualify" myself, but if anyone is interested in seeing pictures or hearing details, I will be happy to share either/both.

As far as the home theater setup, it is going into a second floor bonus room that used to house a rarely used pool table. Since my wife and I plan to start a family soon, the old "office" will also be moving into the bonus room so the baby can have a room and we can still keep a room for guests to sleep in. The room has attic space on both sides, which is great for running wires with minimal destruction to the walls. Since I have this access, I plan to build everything first and address buzzes/rattles after the fact. This helps with the WAF (I already learned a new term ) of having a room that is not tore up for months and potentials saves me money since I can address specific items after the fact.

I do have all of the gear (which I'll list below) and just lack getting the room ready and building the sub box/av cabinet (the DIY parts). I do have a few pictures already that I will update the thread with by the end of the week. With that, I will list my gear and welcome conversation and constructive criticism.

TV: Sony KDL55EX500
Receiver: Pioneer VSX-1120
Blu-Ray: Sony PS3
Front Speakers: Infinity Classia CS336
Center Speaker: Infinity Classia CS225
Side Surround: Infinity Classia CS255ES
Rear Surround: Infinity Classia CS255ES
Sub Amp: Behringer EP2000
Sub Processing: MINI-dsp Balanced Version
Subs: (2) JBL W15GTi - 10cu/ft box tuned to 12hz


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

Welcome to HTS!


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## tonyvdb (Sep 5, 2007)

Hi, It looks like you have the makings of a good system and room. Pictures are worth a thousand words so please post some so we have a better idea of what the space looks like.


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## Stuck Pixel (Apr 25, 2011)

Looks like you know exactly what you want and how to get there. I came from car audio also and have been here for about a month. This site is great and the guys are very helpful. I have a question since I'm not familiar with 6ohm DVCs. How would you wire those, and what would be the final impedence? Also, are those 3ohms per VC? Anyways, welcome to the board.


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## Stuck Pixel (Apr 25, 2011)

Nevermind, I see that's 6ohms per coil.


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## pionkej (May 16, 2011)

Ok, so I took a few minutes to upload some photos that I have so far. The main modifications I made to the room were adding a dedicated 20a line and breaker for all of the a/v equipment (no pictures) and moving a door to my attic. The latter has been the bulk of the project so far and is what most of the pictures are of. I have some "gear shots", a couple of pictures of the room itself, and one of the new furniture going into the room.

Back wall and access to the "small attic" which just has the heat pump behind it:










Interior wall that shows stair access and area overlooking the living room:










Front wall (sorry, already had the door off the hinges):










Gear shot #1:










Gear shot #2:










New furniture (leather chair w/ ottoman & sofa w/ chaise):


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## pionkej (May 16, 2011)

And the moving of the door...

You can see where the door was in the third photo above. It was going to be visually distracting and physically blocked by the sub box/entertainment center I'm planning to build.

Where the door will go (centered with staircase):










Door cut-out (with help from my father):










Checking fitment:










Fitted...thanks for the help dad:










Drywall up on the other side:










All done...easy as pie.


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## pionkej (May 16, 2011)

Here is a picture of my planned sub box/entertainment center. The final piece will be black, but I used cherry wood for contrast. The overall length is 96", the side shelves are 20" long (both sides) and the center is 17.5". Top row will be: Surge protector, PS3 w/ Move Camera, Cable/DVR. Bottom Row will be: Behringer, Drawer for DVD's & remotes, Receiver. The subs and ports will have grill cloth on them with a 3/4" perimeter to visually match the thickness of the shelving. The area below the shelves is where the port will go to get my 36" length for a 12hz tune. It will be made from 13-ply birch and should weigh around 300lbs. without subs or gear which is why I didn't want it blocking a door. :gulp: The height will be 33" which places my center channel 1" below the television with the tweeter at the same height as my towers (40") and all of them approximately at ear level. From the viewing location, the TV is still below a 15 degree angle as suggested by THX (and others). The depth will be 21" which will give me enough room for my subs and allow me to pull my towers away from the wall (reducing destructive interference) while remaining visually balanced with the rest of the gear. 

My only concern is obviously vibration. If I do feel the vibration is too great for the A/V components, I will just turn all of the openings into drawers and build a rack off to the side.


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## pionkej (May 16, 2011)

tonyvdb said:


> Hi, It looks like you have the makings of a good system and room. Pictures are worth a thousand words so please post some so we have a better idea of what the space looks like.


Thank you and I did just get some pictures up so people can start to get an idea of the build. I took a good bit of time picking the components. Coming from car audio (when you try and do it right), you have a lot of issues to overcome with the environment so having a good plan before starting is USUALLY a recipe for success. I tried to do the same with my first real approach at home audio.



Stuck Pixel said:


> Looks like you know exactly what you want and how to get there. I came from car audio also and have been here for about a month. This site is great and the guys are very helpful. I have a question since I'm not familiar with 6ohm DVCs. How would you wire those, and what would be the final impedence? Also, are those 3ohms per VC? Anyways, welcome to the board.


Yeah, they are dual 6-ohm. I'll be running them at 3-ohm per channel on my behringer amp. I'm doing it this way instead of bridged so I can take advantage of being able to time-align and EQ each speaker individually with the MINIdsp. I figure this is especially important in my case since the sub locations are going to be fixed.


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## Erin H (Aug 26, 2009)

Good try, but it's not gonna work.

First off the subs aren't large enough to dig down low like you want. You have to have at least 18" woofers. Secondly, JBL is known for making sub-par subwoofers. Even their expensive line is garbage.
The port isn't large enough to handle the velocity/pressure tradeoffs needed to keep it from chuffing. I just ran the setup through my CFD program at work and you're over sonic velocity (ie: audible chuffing) at 30hz and below. 

Cutting the door out in the room is, forgive me for being blunt, stupid. You could have easily just bought a new house. 

I appreciate the fact that you're swinging for the fences, but you might want to choose a better bat.



















J/K, dude! Looks great, John. I'm looking forward to seeing how it all turns out and maybe even hearing it one day. 

- Erin


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## pionkej (May 16, 2011)

You....you're good you. :clap: You do know that if I went with 18" woofers they may be able to hit the low-lows but they would be slow and sloppy with everything else.  

I appreciate you coming over here and taking a look. I do have a few more pictures, just haven't found the time to upload. I refinished a desk going into the room and I have run the wires for all the surround speakers (and mounted them). It looks like most everything will be ready to go by mid-week and then I'll just have the easy part left...building the ent. center. :blink:

On a side note, we had some friends up on Friday night and I gave on an audition of the car. I got two comments: how big where the subs in the back (I didn't have them on ) and he couldn't believe how clear/loud it was. Hearing those two comments from somebody who doesn't really know anything about setting up a SQ car had me grinning from ear to ear...and I still haven't tuned it.



bikinpunk said:


> Good try, but it's not gonna work.
> 
> First off the subs aren't large enough to dig down low like you want. You have to have at least 18" woofers. Secondly, JBL is known for making sub-par subwoofers. Even their expensive line is garbage.
> The port isn't large enough to handle the velocity/pressure tradeoffs needed to keep it from chuffing. I just ran the setup through my CFD program at work and you're over sonic velocity (ie: audible chuffing) at 30hz and below.
> ...


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## vann_d (Apr 7, 2009)

I think your sub/equipment rack is a really cool idea. I don't recall seeing anyone else use this approach.

My biggest concern (if I were building it) would be getting the finished product to look like a professional piece of furniture.

There are ways to deal with the vibration later if need be. Just start with good bracing and I think you'll be fine.


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## pionkej (May 16, 2011)

vann_d said:


> I think your sub/equipment rack is a really cool idea. I don't recall seeing anyone else use this approach.
> 
> My biggest concern (if I were building it) would be getting the finished product to look like a professional piece of furniture.
> 
> There are ways to deal with the vibration later if need be. Just start with good bracing and I think you'll be fine.


Thank you for the comment, and I did thoroughly weigh the pros and cons of a setup like I have drawn out. I'm not too concerned about the finished product since it will be black. I can use fillers and sandable primer to get a good smooth finish before paint. If it were getting stained, it would be much more difficult to pull off.

I'm also not too concerned about vibrations, but I searched to see if something like this had been done before, and the few times it had been mentioned/attempted/completed, vibration issues were always brought up. The entire unit will be well braced, have less flex vs. an mdf build, and should weigh over 300lbs w/o subs or equipment! 

My biggest concern is the chance my seat will be in the middle of a null. I calculated this as well. I have no room on the sides to put the subs, so it was either up front as designed, directly behind the sofa, or in the corners behind the sofa. I don't like the idea of it behind the sofa because of the potential for tactile cues to give away that the bass is coming from behind. I don't like the corners because I don't think corner-loaded subs sound natural and because rattles/vibrations again could show the subs are located behind the listener. Also, I do have two more channels on my balanced miniDSP and another 12" sub at my disposal. I'm a $70 plate-amp away from putting a small, sealed 12" anywhere in the room to help balance out a null if there happens to be one. So again, I feel like I calculated everything I could think of before executing the install.


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## vann_d (Apr 7, 2009)

I hear you. In my current living room setup the sub is corner loaded behind right and it's much more localizable (word?) than in my previous room where it was up front. Probably due to proximity to the LP, as you mention. Unfortunately for me, the 7 cu. Ft. Box just doesn't fix in any other socially accepable location. Maybe I should do a spin off of your concept 

Sounds like you've got yourself covered if your fears prove to be true. Good planning...


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## pionkej (May 16, 2011)

vann_d said:


> I hear you. In my current living room setup the sub is corner loaded behind right and it's much more localizable (word?) than in my previous room where it was up front. Probably due to proximity to the LP, as you mention. Unfortunately for me, the 7 cu. Ft. Box just doesn't fix in any other socially accepable location. Maybe I should do a spin off of your concept
> 
> Sounds like you've got yourself covered if your fears prove to be true. Good planning...



Many factors give away location. Generally they are tactile vibrations and rattles/resonances. The latter is the most common when corner-loading a sub. The HTIB in my living room will do this very badly but it needs to be there for output because it's only like an 8" ported sub. Coming from car audio, and the fact that subs are nearly always behind you in that hobby, I have learned to focus on and deal with issues that localize speakers. In my car, that effort involved IB subs attached to a foam-reinforeced frame w/ 9" midbass in the doors (which were treated with fiberglass and lead) just to bring the low-frequencies to the front.

As far as my HT "solution", I'll definately give honest feedback on myself and if I'm dissapointed (or hopefully thrilled), I'll let it be known. So feel free to use me as a guinea pig in that regard.


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## pionkej (May 16, 2011)

Well, the theater is up and running.  A couple of notes before we move on to the pictures: 

1.) I know you can see where the old door location was patched in the first picture. It isn't visible except when taking pictures with a flash (they make EVERYTHING show up :rant. I plan to fix it soon, but it is easier to clean-up and repaint down the line than hold up progress for a issue you can't see under the rooms lighting. 

2.) The bookshelf w/o a back being used as a stand is obviously temporary. I will take more photos and update more often with the building of the sub-box/ent. center as it gets underway. Right now I have the front towers set to "large" with a 50hz crossover. It gives me enough bass to keep me happy until everything else is completed.

3.) The pictures are poor quality and I know it. I have an SLR camera and will update the thread at the end with a better series of pictures once everything is actually finished.

4.) Thank you to Jungle Jack for helping me with some initial settings for my TV. It looks wonderful and my wife and I are so happy to NOT have everything on the TV look like it was filmed with a "soap opera camera." 

On to the pictures:




























This picture is of the balanced miniDSP for my Behringer amp. I just finished making the cables last night:


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## vann_d (Apr 7, 2009)

Clean speaker install. Nice


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## pionkej (May 16, 2011)

vann_d said:


> Clean speaker install. Nice


Thank you, it will look even better as the room progresses. Once the ent. center is done and my wife has decorated a bit (she has some really great ideas that I want to share but will wait till they are done) it should really come together. Speaking of the ent. center, I have an alternate idea and would love to get some opinions on which style is preferred.

Original Idea:










Alternate:


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## Stuck Pixel (Apr 25, 2011)

Is that a balanced miniDSP? I plan on going with one of these if I go with the ep2000 for my 18". Running just one channel from the sub out on my Onkyo, what adaptors would I need? I'm guessing RCA>XLR XLR>Phoenix 
Then output to ep2000
Phoenix>XLR CLR cable


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## pionkej (May 16, 2011)

Stuck Pixel said:


> Is that a balanced miniDSP? I plan on going with one of these if I go with the ep2000 for my 18". Running just one channel from the sub out on my Onkyo, what adaptors would I need? I'm guessing RCA>XLR XLR>Phoenix
> Then output to ep2000
> Phoenix>XLR CLR cable


It is a balanced miniDSP. First off, the unit itself does the un-balanced to balanced conversion and it also includes the phoenix connectors. I went to monoprice and got (1) rca cable and (2) xlr cables (I'm running two subs, you only need one xlr if running a single 18"). The total came to like $10. I cut off one end of each cable to connect to the phoenix adapters. 

The connection goes:

rca to phoenix (input 1)
phoenix to xlr (output 1)
phoenix to xlr (output 2) (if running two subs)

If you had more subs, you could use a single rca y-adapter to get both inputs and have four outputs.


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## Stuck Pixel (Apr 25, 2011)

Cool, I didn't think about buying the cables and cutting the ends off. I was thinking multiple adaptors for some reason. I would think that would degrade the signal/voltage now. Sounds good . What are you doing for power?


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## pionkej (May 16, 2011)

Stuck Pixel said:


> Cool, I didn't think about buying the cables and cutting the ends off. I was thinking multiple adaptors for some reason. I would think that would degrade the signal/voltage now. Sounds good . What are you doing for power?


Power to the miniDSP or power for the subs? For the subs, I'm using a Behringer EP2000. For the miniDSP, I had an OLD cell phone charger that uses 12v/200ma that I'm using. I didn't know I had it, so I did some searching and was going to spend around $15 for a voltage selectable universal charger from Walmart.

BTW, since you're about the only person currently looking at/responding to this thread, do you mind giving your opinion on the ent. center options. I'm just kind of curious what people think since I'm probably going to start building one of them this weekend.


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## Stuck Pixel (Apr 25, 2011)

pionkej said:


> Power to the miniDSP or power for the subs? For the subs, I'm using a Behringer EP2000. For the miniDSP, I had an OLD cell phone charger that uses 12v/200ma that I'm using. I didn't know I had it, so I did some searching and was going to spend around $15 for a voltage selectable universal charger from Walmart.
> 
> BTW, since you're about the only person currently looking at/responding to this thread, do you mind giving your opinion on the ent. center options. I'm just kind of curious what people think since I'm probably going to start building one of them this weekend.


I was speaking of power to the miniDSP. That's what I was going to do, hopefully, I have some old chargers laying around. As far as your build, I know you are quite anxious to get started. I like both of your ideas. But, between the 2, I like your alternate better. How much cubic ft would you loose if you went to your alternate? Or did you make the alternate taller to compensate for losing that space that you made for the components? Either way, I don't think you could go wrong. I've subscribed to this thread from the start and will be looking forward to your progress.


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## vann_d (Apr 7, 2009)

My vote is alternate if the CC is going on top in both design, which looks like the case.

Still black? The alternate looks nice in wood.


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## pionkej (May 16, 2011)

It seems I haven't been very dilligent about updating this thread. I'm quite excited that the sub-box portion of the entertainment center has been under way for around the last week or so. I have been pretty good about taking progress pics even though the thread hasn't reflected it. I'm currently ready to start putting the bracing in and adding the top (which is already cut), at which point I'll be down to finish work and paint. So enough with the talk and on to the pictures.

I did decide to go with the alternate design (and it will be black as a finished product):










Here is my first picture I took, it is the back, the bottom, and sides already added (water bottle included for scale  ):



















For the face, I wanted to double the wall, this is for both structural integrity and so I could flush-mount the sub. 

Glued...










...and screwed:


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## pionkej (May 16, 2011)

Over the weekend I worked on getting my holes cut with the router and for getting the ports cut and installed.

Here is the face all routed out (you can see the lip on the back board for a flush-mount):










Here is the test fit of the face:










Face attached and the top loosely test fit (the top is a TIGHT fit, so I didn't push it all the way down just to make removal easier):










I couldn't get enough length for a 36" port which I need for a 12hz tune, so they protrude from the side of the box. Fortunately, I have two boxes connected to each other, so once the product is finished you won't be able to tell, but the left port is actually for the right sub and vise-versa:










And to make sure the top of the box was well locked in, I made the sides and the "inner" face 3/4" lower than the front face and the back. That way the top is locked in to the piece and I can get it screwed down from both the top and the sides of the box:


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## pionkej (May 16, 2011)

Ports cut. It's funny, the 6" pvc seemed H-U-G-E until they went into a 96" long box:










Long side glued (the short side had to be glued from inside the box to get everything to fit):










Short sides protruding from the face (they were cut longer than needed and will be flush-cut after the fact):










Assembled shots:



















Test-fitting the sub:


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## pionkej (May 16, 2011)

*Dual JBL W15GTi's--10cu/ft ea. @13hz*

So I'm now to the point of bracing (like I mentioned above). I plan to build a full brack to hold the long end of the port. After that, I'll secure the port and seal the divider. I plan to use 1"x3" strips of poplar for the remaining bracing and will try and "divide" the box every 12" to make sure it is well braced. 

I hope to have everything done by tomorrow evening so I can start working on the top, but we all know how plans can change. I do promise to do a bit better on updates for those that have been following the build (and thank you for doing so).


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## Stuck Pixel (Apr 25, 2011)

Looks really good. What do you plan on doing about the space around the ports at the middle bracing? Were you meaning to separate the chambers for each sub? If not, maybe you could use your router to cut some triangles in that middle brace for more airflow between the chambers. You've done a of a job, my only concern would be possible noise being generated around the ports in the brace. Then again, someone more experienced than I might want to give their thoughts. Nice Job,:T I bet you're going to catch hell lugging that thing in the house and upstairs.


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## pionkej (May 16, 2011)

Stuck Pixel said:


> Looks really good. What do you plan on doing about the space around the ports at the middle bracing? Were you meaning to separate the chambers for each sub? If not, maybe you could use your router to cut some triangles in that middle brace for more airflow between the chambers. You've done a of a job, my only concern would be possible noise being generated around the ports in the brace. Then again, someone more experienced than I might want to give their thoughts. Nice Job,:T I bet you're going to catch hell lugging that thing in the house and upstairs.


I did originally plan to have separate chambers for each sub, but I had to cross them to get the length/tuning I needed. I do plan to seal them off again. I'm not entirely sure if I'm going to use something like Great Stuff foam and then trim it down or use some sort of caulk, but the two chambers will be separated. I'm waiting until I get the last braces made before locking them in though so I can have some "wiggle room" to get the other braces installed. 

The braces I build for the long section of ports will have lots of open areas. I plan to use circles since they are structurally stronger than a square or triangle cutout though. As for my wife, she has actually helped me in the garage a bit, and and long as it looks good in the end and I don't mess up the walls/ceiling getting it upstairs...she's cool with it. In other words, "there isn't a problem unless there's a problem".


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## Stuck Pixel (Apr 25, 2011)

Oh, I would have ran the ports the same exact way. As soon as I saw that middle brace with the holes, I thought to myself, I'd run the ports to opposing chambers. And sure enough, you did, nice work. On my current build, the only help my wife has given has been to pick up one end of the box and move it 5 ft away. You would have thought I was torturing her. "IT'S HEAVY!"


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## vann_d (Apr 7, 2009)

Front firing or back firing? Are you going to cut the ports flush with the cabinet? I think it would look better. If rear firing then obviously doesn't matter.


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## pionkej (May 16, 2011)

vann_d said:


> Front firing or back firing? Are you going to cut the ports flush with the cabinet? I think it would look better. If rear firing then obviously doesn't matter.


It will all be front firing. I'm not a fan of "loading" a sub because I think it has a tendency to cause more problems than the increased output is worth. Most notably more rattles/resonances (which leads to localization issues) and interference (constructive couples the output and creates peaks-boomy and destructive creates nulls that cannot be fixed with EQ). I do plan to cut the ports flush with cabinet however for a clean appearance. The ports and subs will also be covered with grills when I'm done, but I'm not relying on that fact to take shortcuts or do a bad job. After I get my bracing in and the ports cut flush, I plan to also roundover the face to properly flare the port and help reduce chuffing issues. I'm hoping to have all of that done by the end of the week and I already have most of the bracing cut.


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## pionkej (May 16, 2011)

Minor update. I got the supports for the port tubes done, I got the gaps in the center divider sealed (they will get trimmed and cleaned up after they cure), and I have about 1/2 of the bracing finished.


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## Stuck Pixel (Apr 25, 2011)

Looking good pal. How did you calculate the bend of the elbows for your port length? Outside length + Inside penrith bend /2 ?


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## pionkej (May 16, 2011)

Stuck Pixel said:


> Looking good pal. How did you calculate the bend of the elbows for your port length? Outside length + Inside penrith bend /2 ?


Yes, the inside is a true 90, so I took it as '0', the outside is 6" in each direction, so I used the average of 3" for each run. The short side pipe is 7" (+3"=10") and the long side pipe is 24" (+3"=27") giving me a total length of 37". I needed 36" for my tune, and I err'ed on the longer side for a lower tune. I'm also going to be stuffing the box with 20lbs. of polyfil (1lb/cu/ft) which should increase the apparent volume of the box to greater than 10cu/ft per sub. It, therefore, should lower the tuning a bit more and help reduce the impedance spike the subs produce. I have a woofer tester, so I may try and get before and after stuffing measurements to show the effect it has.

For those people who are concerned about stuffing blowing out the port, the easiest way to fix this is to put some door screen material over the port hole. I have also seen people use a lycra type material (pantyhose), but I feel it creates too much resistance in front of the port and can do funky things to the tuning.


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## pionkej (May 16, 2011)

Well, I have several updates since last week. The first is that I got a separate amp to power my front channels. I went with the Emotiva XPA-5. Even though the benefits are arguable, I'm plan to bi-wire the fronts. The reason I went this route is so if I decided even more power was needed in the future, I could use this amp for my surrounds and center and get an XPA-2 for the towers.

I ordered some nice wires from Knukonceptz. They specialize in car audio, but have a home audio section, and since I didn't feel like making any myself, they got my business. BIG MISTAKE. It seems the Emotiva amps are VERY sensitive and can go into protect easily. The RCA's I got were twisted pair and they did not play friendly with my amp. I thought it was the amp itself since I also had a pair of Monster brand RCA's (also twisted pair) that put the amp into protect. I tried some $.99 Radio Shack ones and the amp works fine. :huh: SO, I have some pictures below, but those wires are already out. I'm only including them because of the work I put into them for a clean install. I do have some better cables coming from Monoprice that will replace the Radio Shack specials.

Next on the list was an amp trigger. My Pioneer doesn't have one, but I didn't want to leave it constantly on or have to work up to the amp to turn it on every time I watched TV. Since my surge protector has the new "green" feature when some outlets are switched according to a "master" I used that for my trigger. I used an old cell phone charger and soldered the 3.5mm tip to it. This step was done twice too. :hissyfit: I used a adapter that put out 12v. WRONG. It put out 14.5v and wouldn't work. So I had to strip and solder some 26ga. wire AGAIN with a 5v adapter and now it works like a charm. Again, the pictures show the first one, but the new working one looks identical. 

Next, I started to take apart my Behringer amp. I don't like the industrial look, so I'm trying to clean it up a bit. I used acetone to remove nearly all the badging (you can't see anything on the face in the room, though the flash still slightly shows where the two blue bars were). I also ordered some blue leds to replace the red/green/yellow ones. They match the rest of my setup better and put out fewer lumens. And since I had it apart, I'm doing the fan mod too.

Last update is that I did a tiny amount of work on the box itself. I cut the bottom board and the pvc pipes flush on the face. I also put a screen over the inside portion of the ports to keep the stuffing from blowing out.


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

A Dual JBL W15GTi Build Thread has been created in the DIY Subwoofer forum for discussion of that portion of the HT construction.

​


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## vann_d (Apr 7, 2009)

Man, that's a weird thing with your interconnects. I can't imagine it's the fault of the cable when it happened on 2 of 3. Sounds more like a short to me. I guess you got it working so I hope it stays that way.

Man, that box looks heavy!


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## pionkej (May 16, 2011)

I updated my build log for the ent. center and box. It is 90% and is upstairs now. I'll have more progress pics in the coming days and pictures of the completed Behringer amp mods. Thanks and enjoy!

http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...jbl-w15gtis-10cu-ft-ea-13hz-2.html#post447713


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