# Contemplating????



## Audiodreamer (Jan 11, 2009)

I recently started a thread about which to upgrade. Since then I have upgraded and awaiting from Amazon the Onkyo 809. Well I still have money left and was looking for a speaker with a little different tonality than the definitive BP6's I have. I also don't have a sub.

I was thinking that I was going to get the Axiom M80's, and that could still happen at least to audition.
I was still going to be without a sub.So I started another thread, and realized that I could build a sub form about half the cost. Then I started thinking that if I can do that, could I build my own towers?

So now I think to the question.
Is it possible to build a great sounding pair of speakers for half the cost or less?
If it works for definitive could it work for me, can I build a tower with the sub in it?
If not what are the reasons? 
Ive got about $1600- $2000 for speakers and sub.
I would be stoked if I could do this myself. I don't have all of those tools, but have friends that do, have the carpentry tools.


----------



## Audiodreamer (Jan 11, 2009)

Maybe I provided too much info, maybe not enough. But I am seeking advice from anyone that is willing to give it.


----------



## cattskinner (Nov 8, 2012)

Hi, thought I would chime in that I have a friend who decided to build some towers and settled on a reproduction of the old JBL L250's. The crossover was a bit "ticklish" (his term, he's Aussie), and he did some driver substitution, but was very happy with the result. I have another friend that's owned a pair of those since they came out and it's a good set up, even by that's standards.
I hear you, if I had that budget I'd get a lot more satisfaction out of building 'em. Anyway, just wanted to send a thumbs-up your way and say hello.


----------



## Jstslamd (Nov 30, 2010)

http://www.stereoclarity.com/


Their line array is what comes to mind when you describe what you want. I'm now sure on price yet as they don't have it listed but it seems to have all of your wants.


----------



## SinCron (Dec 20, 2010)

My thoughts were if you're going to build a four way system with a subwoofer, you'll have to have to build the majority of the cabinet up to isolate the subwoofers so they don't put too much pressure on the cones on the woofer and midrange (if you have a non-sealed midrange driver). Someone will correct this if I'm wrong. The hard part will be the crossover and you'll most likely have to get a 100hz one for the sub. You could possible go three way and have a good woofer that handles from 100hz to 3-4khz smoothly and then use a planar transducer for the rest. As far as subs go, find an 8 ohm (or a 4+4 voice coil option) or two four ohm subs and see what happens.


----------



## Audiodreamer (Jan 11, 2009)

Suppose you had a seperate to drive the subs, that part would be a done deal. If you sealed off the midrange and tweeter(s) you could use the rest of the cabinet for the volume required for the sub.??


----------



## cattskinner (Nov 8, 2012)

What kind of sensitivity and power handling are you hoping for? And size constraints on the towers? I've been kicking around a few thoughts about what I'd do if it were my project...fun idea you are pursuing.


----------



## Audiodreamer (Jan 11, 2009)

From what knowledge I have, the higher each of those are the better ??

And definitely good freq response. 

Right I think my plan is for a 7 cu ft enclosure for a 15" front mounted. I was thinking would it be that much more difficult to build a taller enclosure and incorporate a woofer or two to get down around where most music will play and mids and tweeter(s) while keeping them isolated from the rest of the enclosure to be used for the sub. 

Again I am new at this. But where there is a will there is a way

And when equipped with the knowledge of how to make it work it could be done. 

I have been reading, and there are a lot of you guys that have the knowledge. 

Thanks for your reply.


----------



## Audiodreamer (Jan 11, 2009)

I've been thinking. An 8 cu ft cabinet would 18" deep 12" wide and somewhere over 5 feet tall. I with the right teaching would seal off woofers, midrange and tweeter(s) and use the rest of the cabinet volume for my sub. 

A site that was mentioned on here had a gentlemen put all his crossovers in an enclosure of its on at the top back of cabinet. 

The sub itself would not need to be crossed over ( I don't think) because its basically as its on separate speaker with its on power source. Getting signal only from receiver. 

"I think"


----------



## Audiodreamer (Jan 11, 2009)

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=275-090

Was thinking about this type of tweeter. 

The question is. Is it the crossover the limits the power to the drivers


----------



## Tonto (Jun 30, 2007)

I would build the sub in its own box. I've never seen decent reviews of combined units. Placement issues alone to deal with room modes kinda nixes this from the start. There are some nice kits from some of our sponsors.


----------

