# Duder's HT/bar area



## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Well if all goes as plan I will be starting my Hometheater/Bar area in February. Why am I posting now you ask, well February can come real quick. I wanted to get started with the design now to have a good plan once I get started. I have drawn it out on Sketchup, I was hoping to post it and get everyone's input. I am hoping to get all the framing done, wiring, and drywall with the funds I have. I will be trying to do a little thrift shopping as there seems to be good new materials on craigslist. Here is the gear I am working on, as I am trying to go diy as much as possible. 

Pre/Pro I was thinking Marantz, or Integra. Preferably something with a phono input, I know I could run a phono pre but I don't want to if I don't have to. 

Amplification will be 3 stereo Pass design F5Tv2 for vertically bi amping my either 2 way Klipschorns/ or Diy Jubilees and A 2 way Lascala for a center. Surrounds will be DIY Drift receipe from Dave Harris's Fastlane audio website. I wouldn't mind picking up one of those OPPO blu ray players I have herd great reviews on. I will all so down the road be building a HTPC, and a server to store all my movies and music so I don't the kids fingering everything. 

So what would the best way to up load the drawing from sketchup.


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## mpednault (Dec 20, 2012)

There's an export feature in Sketchup. I believe it's still: File --> export --> 2D graphic

Can't wait to see your room design. You'll be in good hands for suggestions here.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Let me see here, the Klipschorns will be rotated back into the corners. I just turned them to see how the Jubilees would fit.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

I drew this wonderful ceiling, you will notice 2 different things. One the stairs are on the wrong side, and the side were the speakers are is 14' instead of 15'. I don't think it will make much of a difference. But after I got to thinking of it, how much will this affect the sound.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Couple of updates, now with columns. I wonder if there is a rule of thumb how to wide and deep to make you columns. I just made mine the size of the ones on the ceiling. One note, what are the issues I have herd of people having when they install can lights in a sound prof room, as far as rattles go. How does one go about curing the issue.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Heres a new one of the lighting, I changed a few things seemed like i had a lot of can lights maybe to many.


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## bamabum (Dec 7, 2012)

Are you planning on a zone control for the lights?

As long as you can dim the overhead cans it may not be too much. You can also go with the smaller cans which have a much more pleasing ascetic given the number. I would separate lighting control for the bar and viewing area so you can use the space during a movie without disturbing the movie.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

bamabum said:


> Are you planning on a zone control for the lights?
> 
> As long as you can dim the overhead cans it may not be too much. You can also go with the smaller cans which have a much more pleasing ascetic given the number. I would separate lighting control for the bar and viewing area so you can use the space during a movie without disturbing the movie.


I was thinking of zoned lighting, just didn't know how to go about it. So I could do 2 or 3, and have one zone for the 3 up front to display everything up there, one for the rest of the lights, and one for the 3 over the bar area. I was thinking of adding some sconces which I then wouldn't need as many cans, or like you said smaller cans like 4".


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Well over the coarse of the last couple of weeks, I have moved pretty much everything out of the basement that I could. Got the insulation cut down to go in between the studs. Now some cleaning of the walls, and getting my tools down there so I can really begin this project. Ok I guess I am going to have to figure out a how to use some like picasa or flicr.

Maybe this will work

https://picasaweb.google.com/116970122301666569596/2014011102


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Looks like a great space Nick - subscribed and following along!


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

I just figured out to use Picasa, which makes thing alot easier then having to try and re size them for the forum. Plus posting them from the phone is alot easier to rather then having to email them to me, copy them to a album. Then re sizing them then posting them.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

ALMFamily said:


> Looks like a great space Nick - subscribed and following along!


Sometimes I think I am going to take to long, then I realize there are folks here that take a good year or so. I just want to take my time and do a nice job. I think I am going to try and tackle the lighting scheme myself with the help of others. 

After I get the rest of the framing, I am going to get the resilient channel on the ceiling so I can figure where I will have room for can lights. Then maybe level out some areas in the bar area for tile. 

I think if I do some sort of 4 zone controlling system I would be good. Then I figure what I can put in and how to set it up. I just want some thing easily controlled preferably by remote.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

duder1982 said:


> Sometimes I think I am going to take to long, then I realize there are folks here that take a good year or so. I just want to take my time and do a nice job. I think I am going to try and tackle the lighting scheme myself with the help of others.
> 
> After I get the rest of the framing, I am going to get the resilient channel on the ceiling so I can figure where I will have room for can lights. Then maybe level out some areas in the bar area for tile.
> 
> I think if I do some sort of 4 zone controlling system I would be good. Then I figure what I can put in and how to set it up. I just want some thing easily controlled preferably by remote.


Yeah, I would not fret the time it takes to do it - mine ended up closer to two years. And, I am still working on the lobby!

Definitely do as much as you can yourself - I cannot begin to express the level of satisfaction I have when someone comes into my theater and I tell them I did it all. Any questions, don't hesistate to ask them here - that's why the rest of us follow along!


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Couldn't agree more..The personal satisfaction of doing it yourself is a feeling like no other..and when you get a "WOW..you did all this!?" when someone walks into your theatre, it makes all the hard work very rewarding..


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Prof. said:


> Couldn't agree more..The personal satisfaction of doing it yourself is a feeling like no other..and when you get a "WOW..you did all this!?" when someone walks into your theatre, it makes all the hard work very rewarding..


Prof, every time I read one of your post I can't help but do it in the voice of the professor off of Futurama. Thanks for the words of encouragement.


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

I actually sound a bit like him as well!! :rofl:


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Ok folks, I am finishing up the framing this up coming week. I am trying to get a materials list together, for the electrical. Here's what I have so far.

Approx. 10 can lights

8-10 outlets
3 20 amp outlets for up front for the 3 stereo amps.
I will wait for the electrician to tell me how much power wire to get
I figured approx 250' cl2 rated 12 awg speaker wire from monoprice, I figured that would be more then enough.
I need some cl2 rated 2 conductor wire for 12 volt trigger I was thinking some 18 awg speaker wire from monoprice would work.
Some interconnect wire for the 3 power amps up front.( I am currently working on a deal now)
HDMI cable for the projector, I should see about running this through conduit as well.
Some of those controllable light dimmers. Something like the Lutron ones. 

Anybody think of anything else when it comes to wiring, electrical, etc.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Run some string down all the conduit so you can pull more wire if you need to down the road.


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## mpednault (Dec 20, 2012)

Where is all your gear going? In a closet? If so, how do you plan on controlling them? I bought an IR repeater from monoprice for my stuff. Haven't used it yet since I too am still building but you may want to give that some thought on how to control all your stuff from one remote. I ran a USB from my AV closet to my main seat so that I could plug in a phone or anything else really to my Xbox. You should probably run some CAT6 in some places as to "future proof" it. Put conduit EVERYWHERE, even if you leave it empty. You don't want to have to demo drywall and potentially compromise your sound isolation so run conduit around the entire room.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Great suggestions above - I also put sub connection points at 5 locations in my room (both passive and powered) for future flexibility. As stated above, run conduit to different locations - you will thank yourself later... :bigsmile:


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Is there a conduit that is preferred, such as the blue smurf tube, or the grey plastic stuff. I haven't worked with any. I know the grey stuff is cheaper then the blue stuff but maybe the blue stuff is way easier to work with. I will be running several pieces to the front wall, sounds like I should run some to the side wall in case I need to move anything. Good points.


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## MrAngles (May 1, 2012)

I used grey. I would guess it would work a little better than smurf tube thanks to being smoother, but smurftube is flexible, which would make installation easier in most cases.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

I also used grey - no issues for me. It was flexible enough for what I needed, but if you have really tight corners, you might want to go smurf.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

I was looking at where I need to run conduit, and the blue is going to be the only way to get around a heating duct. As the bend is to tough for the gray, it may cost me around 60.00 for conduit. But I know it will be worth it in the long run. 

On a second note, I got some more framing up this weekend. Hopefully funds come in this weekend so I can wrap up the framing and move to electrical. I am thinking of closing off the stairs with a door so I can stop sound from traveling up the stairs.

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/116970122301666569596/albums/5967661080622934353


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

duder1982 said:


> I was looking at where I need to run conduit, and the blue is going to be the only way to get around a heating duct. As the bend is to tough for the gray, it may cost me around 60.00 for conduit. But I know it will be worth it in the long run.
> 
> On a second note, I got some more framing up this weekend. Hopefully funds come in this weekend so I can wrap up the framing and move to electrical. I am thinking of closing off the stairs with a door so I can stop sound from traveling up the stairs.
> 
> https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/116970122301666569596/albums/5967661080622934353


If you can manage a door, I would add it...


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

ALMFamily said:


> If you can manage a door, I would add it...


Door added, 2 pics added. Just a little more framing to do then on to electrical and HVAC. Though in the process I will all so be adding or starting a couple build threads in the diy speaker and diy sub sections. I thought I would have the framing done by now, I feel like I post I keep saying almost done with the framing then on to the electrical. Ha, sometimes I wonder if I am trying to hard to be a perfectionist, you know square, plumb, level. As long as it turns out nice I guess it doesn't matter.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Yup - take your time and don't fret it. In the end, you will appreciate it all the more.

When you start the other build threads, I suggest adding a link in your signature - makes it easy to follow along with those too!


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

ALMFamily said:


> Yup - take your time and don't fret it. In the end, you will appreciate it all the more.
> 
> When you start the other build threads, I suggest adding a link in your signature - makes it easy to follow along with those too!


I see a lot adding links to their sig, how to I go about doing that.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Quick question on zone lighting. 

So if I help me make sure I understand this right. If I have 4 zones, which in my case my sconces will be 1 zone, my pendant lights will be another zone, and my can lights will be divided between 2 zones, one in the back and one in the front. So I would just wire the 4 individual zones to their own individual switch. Then it would depend on the module, and program I have for either my tab, or computer or possible remote.


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## bamabum (Dec 7, 2012)

duder1982 said:


> Quick question on zone lighting.
> 
> So if I help me make sure I understand this right. If I have 4 zones, which in my case my sconces will be 1 zone, my pendant lights will be another zone, and my can lights will be divided between 2 zones, one in the back and one in the front. So I would just wire the 4 individual zones to their own individual switch. Then it would depend on the module, and program I have for either my tab, or computer or possible remote.


Correct. wire each as if they were in a separate room. 

You could have one hot coming into the room (assuming it has enough amps). this will feed four individual switches. From those switches each zone is on its own wiring loop.

If you locate the switches close together you can use lutron graphic eye to mast control all of them. Or you can simply use ir/rf switches and have buttons on your remote for each. 

A lot of people program their remote or smart controller such as an ipad to have "scenes". One scene might be "Movie" which when the mapped button is pressed the remote sends a signal to each switch to adjust it according to the scene.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

duder1982 said:


> Quick question on zone lighting.
> 
> So if I help me make sure I understand this right. If I have 4 zones, which in my case my sconces will be 1 zone, my pendant lights will be another zone, and my can lights will be divided between 2 zones, one in the back and one in the front. So I would just wire the 4 individual zones to their own individual switch. Then it would depend on the module, and program I have for either my tab, or computer or possible remote.


Yes... There is another option but it only works if all the lights are wired without a switch... Smarthome has a Insteon LED Bulb that can be controlled without a switch. http://www.smarthome.com/2672-222/INSTEON-LED-Bulb/p.aspx


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

bamabum said:


> Correct. wire each as if they were in a separate room.
> 
> You could have one hot coming into the room (assuming it has enough amps). this will feed four individual switches. From those switches each zone is on its own wiring loop.
> 
> ...


Thanks, I was looking at the Lutron graphic eye but they seemed pricey. Then I was looking at Insteon but I don't think it is supported my Harmony. So I will have to look for others or deal with just using a tablet.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

duder1982 said:


> I see a lot adding links to their sig, how to I go about doing that.


Under the User CP drop down, there is an option to edit your signature. Create your new thread, copy the link, and then use the hyperlink function to add the link in your signature.


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## MrAngles (May 1, 2012)

duder1982 said:


> Thanks, I was looking at the Lutron graphic eye but they seemed pricey. Then I was looking at Insteon but I don't think it is supported my Harmony. So I will have to look for others or deal with just using a tablet.


All the RF switches like Insteon can be controlled via infrared, as long as you have a main controller that accepts IR input, like a PC based controller with software and a USB IR receiver, but that gets expensive too.

The only light controllers that I have found that can be directly controlled by infrared remotes like Harmonys are the Lutron Grafik Eye, Lutron Spacer System and Lutron Maestro. Unfortunately the Spacer system is also a decent amount of money, and every Maestros switch operates on the same IR codes, so there are extremely limited options for using them to independantly control multiple zones.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

You can always get an app to control them with your phone. The ISY 994i is a good unit for the Insteon, and you can program it to turn your lights on and off with your computer while still using your phone to control it too.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

ALMFamily said:


> Under the User CP drop down, there is an option to edit your signature. Create your new thread, copy the link, and then use the hyperlink function to add the link in your signature.


Ok, what am I doing wrong. I copied the link to the build thread, then click on the what I thought was the link button, which I was then prompted with a box that had the HTTP:// so I paste the copied link and hit ok but it comes out as a broken link, and not worded correctly.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

When I pulled up your signature, the URL looks like it goes to a picture on google. The build thread is here, is it not?


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Here I corrected it for you...

THSPUD clone build pics

Home Theater build pics


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

ellisr63 said:


> Here I corrected it for you...
> 
> THSPUD clone build pics
> 
> Home Theater build pics


Thanks for doing that Ron - doing it from my iPad was a hassle. :T


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

ALMFamily said:


> When I pulled up your signature, the URL looks like it goes to a picture on google. The build thread is here, is it not?


It was suppose to go to my Picasa link, maybe that is what the problem was

Home theater


Now I think I know what I was doing wrong. 

Home theater build pics

But what Ron did works fine, thanks for your help. For someone reason it worked great on the Klipsch forum but not here. But I think were good to go.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

duder1982 said:


> It was suppose to go to my Picasa link, maybe that is what the problem was
> 
> Home theater
> 
> ...


You still need to copy the links I posted so your sig will work though. :T


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

I was leaving the HTTP//: in when I was coping the link in. Hows that.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

They all work now. :T:


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Ok, now back on the sound proofing, my main concern is the transmission of sound from the ceiling through the floor to the upstairs. I all so have 3 heat registers to be concerned about selling up, what is the best way to go about this. Now for the ceiling originally I was going to use the rc1 resilient channel, someone recommended to research it a little more which I did. One of the things the sales rep at the dry wall supply store brought up was the flexing from the resilient channel may cause cracking, plus there is the concern of shorting out this product to the joist. So I think I have scratched that idea. Now I do know I will be insulating in the ceiling which will be tricky in some spots but not impossible. Now the sells rep did show me a product called sound board, which this product has a nrc ratting of .35. Would a layer of this plus a layer of 1/2" drywall be decent sound stoppage. I don't have the funds for the fancy clips and h channel that looks like it would cost around a grand for materials. I would just give quiet rock a chance as it would be cheaper, I have seen that work pretty good. Or would it be just as good to ditch the sound board and use double layers of 1/2" drywall, with insulation. I have looked at green glue but again that is costly to do it properly, ( has anyone not used this stuff properly with decent results). I don't need to totally stop sound, but want to stop as much as possible with out breaking the bank. I need to figure something out before installing can lights so I know exact placement.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Instead of the metal channels and clips... You could use 1x2s. It would be much cheaper and I believe it does the same thing as the metal channels. I am going to put 1/4" foam board in between the joists, drywall, then fiberglass insulation followed by drywall (2 layers overlapping joints).


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

So basiclly you would be adding a extra layer of drywall with 1/4" foam board. Then me just using 2 layers of 1/2" drywall plus insulation.


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## MrAngles (May 1, 2012)

duder1982 said:


> Ok, now back on the sound proofing, my main concern is the transmission of sound from the ceiling through the floor to the upstairs. I all so have 3 heat registers to be concerned about selling up, what is the best way to go about this. Now for the ceiling originally I was going to use the rc1 resilient channel, someone recommended to research it a little more which I did. One of the things the sales rep at the dry wall supply store brought up was the flexing from the resilient channel may cause cracking, plus there is the concern of shorting out this product to the joist. So I think I have scratched that idea. Now I do know I will be insulating in the ceiling which will be tricky in some spots but not impossible. Now the sells rep did show me a product called sound board, which this product has a nrc ratting of .35. Would a layer of this plus a layer of 1/2" drywall be decent sound stoppage. I don't have the funds for the fancy clips and h channel that looks like it would cost around a grand for materials. I would just give quiet rock a chance as it would be cheaper, I have seen that work pretty good. Or would it be just as good to ditch the sound board and use double layers of 1/2" drywall, with insulation. I have looked at green glue but again that is costly to do it properly, ( has anyone not used this stuff properly with decent results). I don't need to totally stop sound, but want to stop as much as possible with out breaking the bank. I need to figure something out before installing can lights so I know exact placement.


Unless you're getting a particularly good deal on it somehow, pre-dampened drywall products like quietrock end up costing more than double 5/8" drywall and green glue. The extra mass of double 5/8" drywall and the ability to stagger the seams between the layers also improve the soundproofing quality quite a bit over a single layer of quietrock. 

Decoupling with clips and channel help a lot with low frequency transmissions, but the damped double layers of drywall and fluffy fiberglass insulation work really well for high frequency stuff, which are the most disruptive and most difficult frequencies to control, so if you have to skimp somewhere I'd say skip the clips and channel and turn the bass down when people are sleeping above you. What will be the difficulty in insulating the ceiling?

As far as the air vents go, there are a few different methods of keeping down sound transmission, depending on where they are located. If they are in the ceiling the best thing is generally to move them into a soffit or something where they can be sealed into a double drywall w/ green glue box so that sound doesn't escape from the duct, and use turns in flex duct with extended length to dissipate the sounds before it meets the main ventilation system and escapes through any other vents in the house.

It sounds like you haven't looked at www.soundproofingcompany.com yet. They have several guides for overcoming specific sound isolation problems.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

MrAngles, thanks for the site. I sent them a email to get a quote. As for the vents they all ready are flexible ducts, I should state that my joist are like trusses were the the air duct is all ready in the ceiling. So If I do a good job at sound proofing is this even a issue.

One thing is people don't sleep above me, its the kitchen and living room. So that is one reason I am not to concerned about sound transmission. I just want to stop as much as possible at low cost.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

duder1982 said:


> So basiclly you would be adding a extra layer of drywall with 1/4" foam board. Then me just using 2 layers of 1/2" drywall plus insulation.


Yes, unless I decide to do Quietrock... Then I would still do the in between rafter bit but only one layer of Quietrock.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

MrAngles said:


> Unless you're getting a particularly good deal on it somehow, pre-dampened drywall products like quietrock end up costing more than double 5/8" drywall and green glue. The extra mass of double 5/8" drywall and the ability to stagger the seams between the layers also improve the soundproofing quality quite a bit over a single layer of quietrock.
> 
> Decoupling with clips and channel help a lot with low frequency transmissions, but the damped double layers of drywall and fluffy fiberglass insulation work really well for high frequency stuff, which are the most disruptive and most difficult frequencies to control, so if you have to skimp somewhere I'd say skip the clips and channel and turn the bass down when people are sleeping above you. What will be the difficulty in insulating the ceiling?
> 
> ...


I read somewhere that the Quietrock runs about $10 more a sheet than going with 2 layers of drywall and Green glue... If that is true then by the time you look at the labor for doing 2 layers plus green glue I would think the prices would be pretty close.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

I saw a couple times where you said you were doing 1/2" drywall - was this a typo? If not, I would consider (as MrAngles suggests) going with 5/8. The more mass you have, the more sound you stop...


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## MrAngles (May 1, 2012)

duder1982 said:


> MrAngles, thanks for the site. I sent them a email to get a quote. As for the vents they all ready are flexible ducts, I should state that my joist are like trusses were the the air duct is all ready in the ceiling. So If I do a good job at sound proofing is this even a issue.
> 
> One thing is people don't sleep above me, its the kitchen and living room. So that is one reason I am not to concerned about sound transmission. I just want to stop as much as possible at low cost.


The concern with ducts being in the ceiling is that you build this great soundproof ceiling, but you have a 6"x12" hole cut into it where the vent goes, with a direct path through that vent, through the flimsy sheet metal boot, through the 3/4" floorboards above. It's an obvious weak spot.









Sealing the duct into a soffit that is inside the room solves this problem:








(I'm borrowing some pictures from the soundproofing company here)

It's more difficult, but if you don't use a soffit, you can at least build a double drywall box for the ducts in the ceiling between the joists. It would not be quite as effective because you're still losing the fluffy insulation between the joists and you still have a hole in your soundproof ceiling where the vent is, but at least the sound won't be able to get right up through the floorboards as easily.



ellisr63 said:


> I read somewhere that the Quietrock runs about $10 more a sheet than going with 2 layers of drywall and Green glue... If that is true then by the time you look at the labor for doing 2 layers plus green glue I would think the prices would be pretty close.


I don't know about the $10 difference, but the biggest cost difference has to do with the waste, not the difference in price per panel. The average waste factor on drywall jobs is 20%, and you save quite a bit of money when that 20% of scraps or damaged panels are just standard 5/8" drywall. It also depends on how much your labor costs. Most people who are doing it themselves seem to value the improvement in the end result and the savings in cost over the time spent in labor. If you're hiring it out it's possible that it could even cost more overall to use green glue due to doubling(?) the labor costs. I'd still want the extra mass of double 5/8" drywall though if I was already spending all that money on soundproofing.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

ALMFamily said:


> I saw a couple times where you said you were doing 1/2" drywall - was this a typo? If not, I would consider (as MrAngles suggests) going with 5/8. The more mass you have, the more sound you stop...


Well I haven't got to dry stage yet so it may be possible to that route, depends on funds. Right now if I go with either 1/2" or 5/8" I am hoping to at least go with green glue in between. Green glue from Menards is going to cost me around 480 I hope The sound Proofing store comes in cheaper. 5/8" drywall is 12.99 a sheet, at 32 sheets that's 416.00 equaling 896.00. If I used 1/2" that would run me 218 for the dry wall plus the green glue which would total 698.00. So about 200.00 dollars cheaper, not to bad I would think the extra 200.00 would be worth it. Now if I could find a local dealer on the quiet rock and get a actual quote. All I can find is online is it ranging from 65.00 a sheet to 105.00 a sheet. So lets say 85.00 a sheet, needing 16 sheets ya forget about it. I will stick with the green glue. Well I don't know how much alone insulation and green glue sandwich is going to stop but if its enough then that keeps me happy.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

MrAngles said:


> The concern with ducts being in the ceiling is that you build this great soundproof ceiling, but you have a 6"x12" hole cut into it where the vent goes, with a direct path through that vent, through the flimsy sheet metal boot, through the 3/4" floorboards above. It's an obvious weak spot.
> 
> 
> It's more difficult, but if you don't use a soffit, you can at least build a double drywall box for the ducts in the ceiling between the joists. It would not be quite as effective because you're still losing the fluffy insulation between the joists and you still have a hole in your soundproof ceiling where the vent is, but at least the sound won't be able to get right up through the floorboards as easily.


You have given me very good ideas, I think I might be able to make something work. So the main ones I have to worry about are the ones actually open to the room. Which run in the middle of the joist, which might make it a little easier to build around. Now is there anything to do as far as the actual register and air getting around that.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

duder1982 said:


> Well I haven't got to dry stage yet so it may be possible to that route, depends on funds. Right now if I go with either 1/2" or 5/8" I am hoping to at least go with green glue in between. Green glue from Menards is going to cost me around 480 I hope The sound Proofing store comes in cheaper. 5/8" drywall is 12.99 a sheet, at 32 sheets that's 416.00 equaling 896.00. If I used 1/2" that would run me 218 for the dry wall plus the green glue which would total 698.00. So about 200.00 dollars cheaper, not to bad I would think the extra 200.00 would be worth it. Now if I could find a local dealer on the quiet rock and get a actual quote. All I can find is online is it ranging from 65.00 a sheet to 105.00 a sheet. So lets say 85.00 a sheet, needing 16 sheets ya forget about it. I will stick with the green glue. Well I don't know how much alone insulation and green glue sandwich is going to stop but if its enough then that keeps me happy.


I looked at Quietrock early on as well, and the best price I could find was $80 a sheet. As far as GG from the Soundproofing Company, IIRC they give you a discount if you call them directly to place an order. Plus, if you get the 5 gallon bucket, I am pretty sure it is cheaper than ordering the tubes.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

ALMFamily said:


> I looked at Quietrock early on as well, and the best price I could find was $80 a sheet. As far as GG from the Soundproofing Company, IIRC they give you a discount if you call them directly to place an order. Plus, if you get the 5 gallon bucket, I am pretty sure it is cheaper than ordering the tubes.


This is what I was going by (a post from another forum)... 
"1 Lowes store in town carries it and it's about $45.00 a sheet. 5/8 drywall $12.00 a sheet the the green glue and you use a lot of it. So you come out about $10.00 or less a sheet. The Quiterock is only 1/2 thick and 2 sheets of 3/8 with green glue is about 7/8 thicker. I will be using Quiterock on the ceiling as I can't lose almost a inch of height. They say it's equal to 5 sheets of drywall but I think that is without green glue."

I have to check on the price at Lowes now because at $45 a sheet it might be economical to do, where as at $85+ a sheet it is def not feasable.

I just checked at my local Lowes and it is $52.98 for 1/2" Quietrock 500 (I know this is their least expensive version and I don't know how it compares to the most expensive one)... 5/8" drywall is $11.81. So this would mean $23.62 for 2 sheets plus the green glue. If the green glue costs $32 for each sheet (per amazon for 2 tubes), it looks like Quietrock is now less expensive... Quietrock #52.99 vs drywall+gg+drywall $55.62. Does this look about right?


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## MrAngles (May 1, 2012)

ellisr63 said:


> I just checked at my local Lowes and it is $52.98 for 1/2" Quietrock... 5/8" drywall is $11.81. So this would mean $23.62 for 2 sheets plus the green glue. If the green glue costs $32 for each sheet (per amazon for 2 tubes), it looks like Quietrock is now less expensive... Quietrock #52.99 vs drywall+gg+drywall $55.62. Does this look about right?


That looks right if you're paying full price for the tubes. Using 5-gallon buckets of green glue is cheaper if you're putting in at least 10 drywall panels. A five gallon bucket from the soundproofing company is $200, and equivalent to about 23 individual tubes. It ends up being more like $20 of green glue in between two 4x8 sheets of drywall. Of course the real savings is that if you're not putting up a full 4x8 sheet of drywall, you only use the appropriate amount of green glue on, and only the cost of the drywall gets wasted, not the dampening compound, unlike with quietrock.

If you want to save money, you can use half as much green glue between two 5/8" sheets and still have a more effective solution than quietrock, because of how much more mass you will have.


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## MrAngles (May 1, 2012)

duder1982 said:


> Well I haven't got to dry stage yet so it may be possible to that route, depends on funds. Right now if I go with either 1/2" or 5/8" I am hoping to at least go with green glue in between. Green glue from Menards is going to cost me around 480 I hope The sound Proofing store comes in cheaper. 5/8" drywall is 12.99 a sheet, at 32 sheets that's 416.00 equaling 896.00. If I used 1/2" that would run me 218 for the dry wall plus the green glue which would total 698.00. So about 200.00 dollars cheaper, not to bad I would think the extra 200.00 would be worth it. Now if I could find a local dealer on the quiet rock and get a actual quote. All I can find is online is it ranging from 65.00 a sheet to 105.00 a sheet. So lets say 85.00 a sheet, needing 16 sheets ya forget about it. I will stick with the green glue. Well I don't know how much alone insulation and green glue sandwich is going to stop but if its enough then that keeps me happy.


So the 1/2" panels cost half as much as the 5/8" ones? That doesn't sound right. Two five-gallon buckets of Green Glue (more than you need for 16 drywall panels) would be $396 + $30 for the speedload system plus shipping, but you won't have to pay sales tax, so it might end up around the same. You'd probably save $50 by getting one bucket and 10 tubes through the soundproofing company.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

MrAngles said:


> That looks right if you're paying full price for the tubes. Using 5-gallon buckets of green glue is cheaper if you're putting in at least 10 drywall panels. A five gallon bucket from the soundproofing company is $200, and equivalent to about 23 individual tubes. It ends up being more like $20 of green glue in between two 4x8 sheets of drywall. Of course the real savings is that if you're not putting up a full 4x8 sheet of drywall, you only use the appropriate amount of green glue on, and only the cost of the drywall gets wasted, not the dampening compound, unlike with quietrock.
> 
> If you want to save money, you can use half as much green glue between two 5/8" sheets and still have a more effective solution than quietrock, because of how much more mass you will have.


That def makes it cheaper! :T


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## MrAngles (May 1, 2012)

duder1982 said:


> 5/8" drywall is 12.99 a sheet, at 32 sheets that's 416.00 equaling 896.00.


This is the drywall I used. $8.30 a sheet, or cheaper if you match a Lowes 10% off coupon or wait for a drywall sale or 11% off rebate. I love Menards.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

MrAngles said:


> This is the drywall I used. $8.30 a sheet, or cheaper if you match a Lowes 10% off coupon or wait for a drywall sale or 11% off rebate. I love Menards.


I get 10% off already for being a disable vet... Too bad I can't stack discounts. We don't have Menards around us.


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## MrAngles (May 1, 2012)

Menards is great, but 10% off every day definitely beats waiting for a sale or rebate!


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

MrAngles said:


> Menards is great, but 10% off every day definitely beats waiting for a sale or rebate!


If there is a sale I still get the 10% additional off. We just ordered a shed installed and we got 10% off the whole price including labor. :T


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

MrAngles said:


> This is the drywall I used. $8.30 a sheet, or cheaper if you match a Lowes 10% off coupon or wait for a drywall sale or 11% off rebate. I love Menards.


Your right I was looking at moisture control. Well that makes it even cheaper now were down to 277 for 32 sheets. I would probably go with 2 buckets as I have some extra spots I could use it in.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

So I just got off the phone with the sound proofing company, they said I could get by with 2 cases. They are about 1.50 cheaper a tube which I would save on with shipping when buying locally. So 24 times 15.00 a tube comes out to 360 plus 288 equals 648. Not bad, I think I will be happier with this. Once I do the little things, plus my joist are 24" on center which the fellow at The Sound Proofing company told thats better then 16" on center when you couple the dry wall to the frame. So things are looking good. Now I just need to finish up wiring, and hvac, some little plumbing and I am on my way. 

Thanks for you help guys on talking me through this, I think this situation is a prime example on getting the right advice and talking it threw good job.


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## MrAngles (May 1, 2012)

duder1982 said:


> So I just got off the phone with the sound proofing company, they said I could get by with 2 cases. They are about 1.50 cheaper a tube which I would save on with shipping when buying locally. So 24 times 15.00 a tube comes out to 360 plus 288 equals 648. Not bad, I think I will be happier with this. Once I do the little things, plus my joist are 24" on center which the fellow at The Sound Proofing company told thats better then 16" on center when you couple the dry wall to the frame. So things are looking good. Now I just need to finish up wiring, and hvac, some little plumbing and I am on my way.
> 
> Thanks for you help guys on talking me through this, I think this situation is a prime example on getting the right advice and talking it threw good job.


Sounds like you'll just be doing a tube and a half of green glue per panel then?

Joists being 24" OC is better because it allows the drywall to flex more. It also will give you more room to work with if you decide to box in your ducts between the joists instead of a soffit.


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## mpednault (Dec 20, 2012)

I thought quietrock isn't as effective (less mass) than DD+GG? It may cost about the same but I imagine DD+GG is going to work way better for you. I had planned on using 5/8" drywall with GG but my budget wouldn't cover it. I did do some isolation methods with my wall framing and due to the design of my room I can easily add another layer if funds free up later.


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## MrAngles (May 1, 2012)

mpednault said:


> I thought quietrock isn't as effective (less mass) than DD+GG? It may cost about the same but I imagine DD+GG is going to work way better for you. I had planned on using 5/8" drywall with GG but my budget wouldn't cover it. I did do some isolation methods with my wall framing and due to the design of my room I can easily add another layer if funds free up later.


I think quietrock is 1/2" thick total, including the damping material. Two layers of 5/8" has substantially more mass.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

MrAngles said:


> Sounds like you'll just be doing a tube and a half of green glue per panel then?
> 
> Joists being 24" OC is better because it allows the drywall to flex more. It also will give you more room to work with if you decide to box in your ducts between the joists instead of a soffit.


I will probably end up using 2 tubes a sheet, as if I run out I can run down the street to get more. Menards stocks it at 15.00 a tube about 1.50 more the the Sound Proofing store, but it having available when ever makes it nice.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

OK, as I am thinking about it. When I add 2 sheets of 5/8 that equals 1 1/4" how are you guys and gals going about mounting you light fixtures, and electrical housings. I would need to mount them 1 1/4" down, but most don't accommodate that.


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## MrAngles (May 1, 2012)

duder1982 said:


> OK, as I am thinking about it. When I add 2 sheets of 5/8 that equals 1 1/4" how are you guys and gals going about mounting you light fixtures, and electrical housings. I would need to mount them 1 1/4" down, but most don't accommodate that.


Old work boxes work well, I also use longer screws and some people use extension rings.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Well I should be wrapping up my thspud build then hopefully back to this theater/bar are. My plan through out the next week is finish getting the rough ins for lighting inplace, some plumbing, hopefully figure out what all I want/need to do with the hvac. Then I guess it will be time for drywall.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Well I got some electrical boxes in and some blue conduit in. If you ever buy the blue conduit by the 100' roll, I recommend having some one help you. Not to bad but it would have been a little easier. I have about 5 more runs left. I have some can lights installed as well, hopefully the plumber comes tomorrow to take care of some plumbing issues, so I can get the rest of the can lights in. But all in all not a bad day. Some updated photos added.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

duder1982 said:


> Well I should be wrapping up my thspud build then hopefully back to this theater/bar are. My plan through out the next week is finish getting the rough ins for lighting inplace, some plumbing, hopefully figure out what all I want/need to do with the hvac. Then I guess it will be time for drywall.


I am envying you with the HTSPUD! I might have to build a couple later if my 2 SUPERSPUDs are not enough. I need to call Danley in the morning and see if it is ok to put one under my second row of seating. :T


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Any good ideas how to cool a equipment room. One of mine is to run a duct from the main system into the room, and shut it off in the winter time.


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## MrAngles (May 1, 2012)

duder1982 said:


> Any good ideas how to cool a equipment room. One of mine is to run a duct from the main system into the room, and shut it off in the winter time.


Having a cold air supply will help, and some of the HVAC guys I had at my house mentioned running a dedicated duct to right over the equipment rack, but I don't know if I'd want to have to close/open the vent based on whether the heater or the A/C is on, or risk blowing hot air right on my equipment if I left it open and my wife turned the heater on.

I think the key is less about supplying cold air, and more about removing hot air, similar to how computer cooling works. At my old house I had my equipment in a little hallway closet that was half-filled with shelves of towels, and installed a bathroom exhaust fan vented to the outside hooked up to a attic fan thermostat switch, and it kept the temperature below 85. The gap at the bottom of the door allowed for enough air intake to keep the air flowing.

I think ALM's solution is a great example of the most effective method: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/home-theater-design-construction/51300-alm-family-ht-room-28.html#post507406 You have a vent at the bottom for intake and a vent at the top for exhaust, hot air rises and goes through the exhaust vent, helped along by an in-line fan on a thermostat. That way it's constantly being cooled regardless of what your main heating/cooling system is doing.


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## mpednault (Dec 20, 2012)

I'd be concerned with added moisture if running a duct to the equipment. I think proper ventilation techniques are the best solution. Keep some things in mind: heat rises, air movement is enough to satisfy the cooling needs of this type of equipment and finally, wire management, wire management, wire management. Poorly bundled wiring can have negative effects of air circulation so be sure to route your wires neatly and tightly and out of the way of vents/fans of your equipment.

All I'll be using is an inlet at the bottom and and outlet at the top of my closet with a small fan or two PULLING the hot air out of the room and blowing it into a very large adjacent room (not my HT).


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Ok a fart fan might be a little loud, but if it is I can change it later. But I have one of those installed, with duct running to another room. I will control it with a thermostat switch. I have all my can lights installed, and most of the conduit ran for the low voltage. For this I ended up giving the blue stuff a try, a little more costly but I had some air duct to go around. Now that I think of it I could have used the grey stuff for the hdmi cables as I used 1" for that and it didn't need to go around much, but oh well to late now. Once I finish up the last 2 runs of conduit for the hdmis, it will be trying to get the electrician out to run the power. I can't wait to get the cans lite up as its kind of dark down there. I should be getting the plumber over next week to run the water lines for the wet bar in the back, once that's done and I move some HVAC ducts, it will be on to dry wall. 

Does anyone see a problem using blow in insulation in ceiling, I could use r19 bat, but it would be a pain to have to cut it and run it around everything. I though blow in would cover more and get in places more. I know its not better then bat or have much advantage over bat insulation, but it would be easier to install.


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## chrapladm (Jun 17, 2009)

Wow. I never knew anyone else to have the Jamboree plans. I have had them for a few years now and see you have built yours. Awesome.

Will your Jamboree's be going in this HT room?


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

chrapladm said:


> Wow. I never knew anyone else to have the Jamboree plans. I have had them for a few years now and see you have built yours. Awesome.
> 
> Will your Jamboree's be going in this HT room?


Yes they will, I had a little journey with Klipschorns. But came to realize that they just weren't going to work for me with my plans. I had scavenged some plans for the Jubilees until Greg Roberts as Volti audio turned me on to the Jamboree, which seemed easier to build. 


Dana was real helpful. Did you ever build your Jamborees.


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## chrapladm (Jun 17, 2009)

Pretty much the same pathway I took. I chatted with Greg and then Dana. I was going to go with horns from Greg on top of the Jamboree's but shipping was astronomically expensive. wow. I then moved from our large rental to a smaller home in which we own. That being said I no longer had the room for my Jamboree's to be built.

So I am going to try and build a synergy horn instead. I really wanted to build the Jamboree's but the plywood would have cost me close to $1000 alone.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

chrapladm said:


> Pretty much the same pathway I took. I chatted with Greg and then Dana. I was going to go with horns from Greg on top of the Jamboree's but shipping was astronomically expensive. wow. I then moved from our large rental to a smaller home in which we own. That being said I no longer had the room for my Jamboree's to be built.
> 
> So I am going to try and build a synergy horn instead. I really wanted to build the Jamboree's but the plywood would have cost me close to $1000 alone.


Bummer, hope the synergy horn works out for you. 1000 in wood, wood there must be higher then here. Even if I go with marine grade, or BB it runs approx 80.00 sheet times 8 sheets would be 640.00. I don't think I will even use 8.


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## chrapladm (Jun 17, 2009)

Ya Greg said it would be 8 sheets if I wanted the grains to all match and that was $120 each for marine grade. BB is even more expensive.

Which drivers did you use for the Jam? Art's 15's or other?


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

I am going to be using the K-33s, I am going to veneer it so I wasn't so worried about the grain pattern.


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## chrapladm (Jun 17, 2009)

I am sure it will turn out amazing. I just wish I had the glue Greg uses. Stuff he uses has a strong hold in about 15 secs. That would work great for those small triangular reflector pieces.

Where is your build thread on the Jamboree?:foottap:

Greg's on his site is quite amazing with all the pictures. Seeing that makes the build look so much easier. 

I was going to go with the K33's but Dana said there was only one other woofer he knew of that played well in the cabinet but was able to go lower. He did say he was having some woofers made for him but not sure that ever came through or not.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

I haven't started a build thread yet, but if you look in my sig you can go to my pics of what I have started. But since you asked here you go.

Build thread


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

The blown in insulation - from an acoustical standpoint, I do not think there would be a difference between that and the r19. But, it sure is a lot messier - the time you save not cutting and fitting it around stuff, you will spend cleaning up I am thinking....


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

ALMFamily said:


> The blown in insulation - from an acoustical standpoint, I do not think there would be a difference between that and the r19. But, it sure is a lot messier - the time you save not cutting and fitting it around stuff, you will spend cleaning up I am thinking....


Clean up is nothing, however it looks like a rats nest in my rafters. I don't there is even some areas I could put bat. From what I read about proper install on bat I think it may be worth the clean up if there is no acoustical change. Thanks for answering my question on that.

Take a look at pic 16 of 23, you can kind of get a idea of what I am talking about. If they would have ran my plumbing down the center close to the hvac, I would just do the same with the electrical and split the batting right there. Then it wouldn't be that bad.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

My goodness, you are not kidding Nick, that is quite the warren of things to work around.

Just make sure the blown in stuff does not get compacted and you should be good to go.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Well, just had the electrician over tonight to asses the situation. Soon as he has a open Saturday we should be getting it knocked out. Hopefully I can get the plumber over this weekend to finish the plumbing. Once I do all that some minor things here and there we should be good to get some rock up. Now its waiting on the contractors, a lot of hurry up and wait.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Anybody have any experience or know anyone who has used some of the small 2 ways from Diysoundgroup.com as surrounds. I was thinking selling my 2 surround speakers I have now, and purchase 4 matching speakers to use as surrounds.

I was thinking something like this.

http://www.diysoundgroup.com/waveguide-speaker-kits/karma10-kit.html

Build some custom cabs.


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## chrapladm (Jun 17, 2009)

Fusion 8's?

I am getting ready to build something very similar myself as soon as Erich gets some DNA-150's in.


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## Mike Edwards (Mar 10, 2011)

duder1982 said:


> Anybody have any experience or know anyone who has used some of the small 2 ways from Diysoundgroup.com as surrounds. I was thinking selling my 2 surround speakers I have now, and purchase 4 matching speakers to use as surrounds.
> 
> I was thinking something like this.
> 
> ...


I'm using the 15 inchers as mains right now...they're INCREDIBLE...gonna be building the karma 10's or fusion 8's in the next couple months to upgrade my surrounds with too.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

I have my eye on both of those as well, the Karma 10 might be over kill but for 10 dollars more.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Mike Edwards said:


> I'm using the 15 inchers as mains right now...they're INCREDIBLE...gonna be building the karma 10's or fusion 8's in the next couple months to upgrade my surrounds with too.


They remind me of a HIP, if they had made it a 2 way instead of a 3 way.. :T


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## chrapladm (Jun 17, 2009)

Overkill....... What is that. Overkill just means having headroom. Can never have enough of that.


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## Mike Edwards (Mar 10, 2011)

There is no kill like overkill


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Well not a hole lot going on. I recently have about 90 percent of the low voltage ran, a couple more of 12 volt trigger lines to run and that will be done. I had the electrician over Saturday morning and we knocked out about half of the electrical. Once he gets over to finish, it will make it easier to work since I would have light. I was thinking of using my Spuds as riser for the mains, which I would then build a stage between them for the center. This would raise them to about 4-5 feet off of the ground, which I think would be to high for listening pleasure. What do you all think.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

duder1982 said:


> Well not a hole lot going on. I recently have about 90 percent of the low voltage ran, a couple more of 12 volt trigger lines to run and that will be done. I had the electrician over Saturday morning and we knocked out about half of the electrical. Once he gets over to finish, it will make it easier to work since I would have light. I was thinking of using my Spuds as riser for the mains, which I would then build a stage between them for the center. This would raise them to about 4-5 feet off of the ground, which I think would be to high for listening pleasure. What do you all think.


You could always aim the speakers downward toward the MLP... What about using the SPUDs as the stage?


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Using the Spuds as part of a stage is a idea, but will have to wait until I gets things finished up a bit. 

But just a little update, I was able to finish up the low voltage minus the stuff I will pull through the conduit when down. I have 2 recessed lights to wire up along with 2 outlets. Still waiting on the plumber to get over here and help out, I may end up having to do it my self. 

As I am low on funds for a couple of weeks its time to focus on another project I started during this one so check out my sig for updates.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Didn't want you folks to think I gave up on this project, I just haven't had time or funds to move with it. I am hoping this winter I can pick back up on it and at least start drywall stage. I had some flooding do and a contractor error. So they are paying for all damages and clean. After that I can get my room cleaned back up and start moving forward. For now its just sitting and waiting.


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## chrapladm (Jun 17, 2009)

Glad things are still planning on moving ahead.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Looking forward to seeing your progress. :T


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## chrapladm (Jun 17, 2009)

SO any progress going on in life? 

Just was thinking about the Jamboree and was curious what you have been up to. Its sad when we have these types of threads and then things slow down and we dont hear much from you. So I figured I would see how things are going.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

chrapladm said:


> SO any progress going on in life?
> 
> Just was thinking about the Jamboree and was curious what you have been up to. Its sad when we have these types of threads and then things slow down and we dont hear much from you. So I figured I would see how things are going.


My basement flooded a couple of weeks, so I have been cleaning that up. Nothing major damaged just a mess.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

duder1982 said:


> My basement flooded a couple of weeks, so I have been cleaning that up. Nothing major damaged just a mess.


Is your HT in the basement... If so do you have any sump pumps installed to prevent massive damage? What did you end up going with for your lighting... Insteon?


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

ellisr63 said:


> Is your HT in the basement... If so do you have any sump pumps installed to prevent massive damage? What did you end up going with for your lighting... Insteon?


My theater is in the basement, and I do have a sump pump. But the flooding was do to a valid being left open on the main. So it back up through my floor drains.

I haven't done the lighting, but will probably use insteon.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

duder1982 said:


> My theater is in the basement, and I do have a sump pump. But the flooding was do to a valid being left open on the main. So it back up through my floor drains.
> 
> I haven't done the lighting, but will probably use insteon.


Glad to hear you didn't have any major damage!

If you go Insteon, I highly recommend the ISY 994i... I have been able to link switches through the software in a matter of minutes vs running around the house to do it. I also was able to program a series of lighting scenes for use with my scene controller switches in a short amount of time. It is def a DIY project that anyone that can istall a switch can do. :T


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Not much of an update, other then after discussing it with the wife. Hopefully we should start again after the first of the year. I just wanted to come up with a list of things I need to finish before I start dry-walling. I hope to get the drywall done and maybe carpet. As we want to have another spot in the house for the kids to play, since my son will be getting an Xbox 360 for Christmas. I have a couple of used or refurbished receivers on my radar that will act as a pre/pro. So here is my list of things that need to get done.

1. Finish the electrical wiring 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_70111-295-2...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=

2. Move a vent so its not directly pointed at a speaker, plus have the s shape to help lower noises from the vents. 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_126878-4247...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=

3. Insulation I need about 4 more of these at 10.98 equaling around 44.00

http://www.lowes.com/pd_31116-1722-...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=

4. Foam around the can lights to prevent blow in insulation from coming through. Need 12 at 14.99 each=179.00

http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...essories/insulmax-cancap/p-1865140-c-5776.htm

5. Some spray foam between the studs and foundation, along with exposed parts of the foundation in between the floor and basement ceiling. 

http://www.menards.com/main/p-2275290-c-7937.htm

6. I need to look at insulation for the ceiling, as I have rafter style joist with all the wires and plumbing running through it I would have to use blow in. Wow I was just reading about Roxul I have seen some use it, and I am considering since its moisture prof and good for basement foundation walls. 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_138683-1278...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=

I will update as I go, if there is anything you can think of before I start to drywall let me know.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Ok, I purchased some materials and decided to take a different route with the insulation. Instead of using blow in insulation in the ceiling, I will be giving the Roxul a try. 

I picked up a bag of it to get me started. I also picked up some electrical wiring so I can wrap that up. Along with the flexible air duct to relocate the vent by one of my speakers. 

Once I get some of that installed and wrapped up. I will look at the plumbing for the bar area. I need a checklist to insure me I am ready for drywall.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

Did you get the Rockboard? We have used the Rockboard R60, and R80 in our HT, and i really like working with it versus the fluffy stuff. I currently have 8 bales of the R80 awaiting GOM, and construction of frames for the wall panels. I wish that i would have known how much nicer it was to use, as I would have paid extra to use it for our inner walls.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

If I would have know about it Roxul board before I framed, I would have installed the board before framing. But I will just be using the comfort bat for the walls and safe and sound for the ceiling.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

I actually copied this from another forum, hopefully that member doesn't mind. I will go back and revise later when I have time. But I want to make sure I have everything I need/want for this. 

Construction:
framing, Done
1) Frame bar area
Plumb the bar
Double 5/8" drywall with green glue and acoustic caulk for seams
molding/trim
insulation (r19 ceiling, r13 walls) Doing this with Roxul which is actually r15 for the walls. 
solid heavyweight door
decorative columns Don't know if this is going to happen
screen wall
bass traps
furring strips
acoustical treatment (Linacoustic, batting, GOM, other fabric)
carpeting
equipment storage Looking for a server rack locally
heating/cooling -- finish running the vent for the equipment room.
paint/stain etc

lighting/electrical:
grafik eye, insteon, or zwave
sconces
Need to check my conduit (projector to rack, rack to electrical panel, other)


video/inputs:
Need to double check what is needed.
projector (anamorphic lens, ceiling bracket, hush box)
screen
masking
bluray player
sat/cable box
gaming - xbox360, ps3
home theater pc
cat5e or cat6 (3)
hdmi (2)
component

audio:
Again need to check what is needed for wiring.
receiver
speakers - fronts, center, sub(s), surround, rears
speaker wire, coax, toslink, banana plugs

misc:
What kind of wire do I need for 12 volt triggers and IR repeater.ir repeater


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

When we built our walls we did one layer of OSB, and 1 layer of Drywall... We did this so we could hang stuff on the walls if we liked. We did 2 layers of Drywall only on the ceiling.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

ellisr63 said:


> When we built our walls we did one layer of OSB, and 1 layer of Drywall... We did this so we could hang stuff on the walls if we liked. We did 2 layers of Drywall only on the ceiling.


That's exactly what I am going to do.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

For a server rack... Have you tried Craigslist or a local Surplus Electronics store? I purchased a 6' high 4 post server rack a while back for $100 through a Surplus Electronics store. :T


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

ellisr63 said:


> For a server rack... Have you tried Craigslist or a local Surplus Electronics store? I purchased a 6' high 4 post server rack a while back for $100 through a Surplus Electronics store. :T


Yea I missed out on CL a couple of weeks ago, someone had a 42u rack for free. But the only thing on there now is a homemade looking one for 100.00. Surplus store had some name brand ones for over $400.00,. I will just have to stay on top of the rack, along with other materials.


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## NBPk402 (Feb 21, 2012)

duder1982 said:


> Yea I missed out on CL a couple of weeks ago, someone had a 42u rack for free. But the only thing on there now is a homemade looking one for 100.00. Surplus store had some name brand ones for over $400.00,. I will just have to stay on top of the rack, along with other materials.


I sorta lucked out on my current rack... I picked it up off of eBay from a local seller for $250 delivered BNIB (he had paid $500 for it).


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Well the bar frame is up, I think it needs some tweaking before permanent installation. I don't know if I want to give it a l shape. I do think it might need to be pushed back for ease of plumbing installation. Plus I will have to relocate the light fixtures so they are center of the bar.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

If I am up to it I might finish the air duct I started a couple days ago. I might all so install some insulation on the back wall. As I want to see what happens if I use poly as a vapor barrier. The humid summer will tell me if it's ok.


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## duder1982 (Aug 28, 2012)

Well the plumber never showed. But the air duct is fixed, along with some wiring. I all so was able to redo the insulation on the back wall. No more fiberglass for me. Just Roxul from here on out. I still need to relocate the pendant lights above the bar. But I am waiting for the plumber to tell me my location is good. But I see the light at the end. I can smell it.


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## chrapladm (Jun 17, 2009)

Was thinking of you ...so I figured I would say hello.  creepy. 

Hope all is well.


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