# 1st REW test - Trouble at 80 Hz



## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

After some time spent on calibrating the soundcard, I was able to run some tests last night. I have my sub in the left hand of my room, up against a corner bass trap (I have 4 corner traps). I ran REW using output from my main speaker and my subwoofer. My sub crossover is set to 80 and I cross my speakers at 40. I placed the SPL meter in my usual seating position and ran a few sweeps with varying results. It seemed that my readings were better when the sub (HSU STF-2) was set at a phase of 180 degrees instead of 0. Looking at all of the readings, there seemed to be a common problem at 80Hz, which is also the sub crossover :









Aside from an EQ like the BFD/DCX2496, is there anything else I can do to improve the results above 80 HZ?


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

You should have your mains and sub set to the same crossover frequency ie 80 Hz. Crossing subs at 80 and the mains at 40 will give incorrect output in the 40 - 80 Hz range.
Try setting them the same and run REW again.
It is also worthwhile doing a plot of sub only and main only to check the responses and levels of each.


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## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

robbo266317 said:


> You should have your mains and sub set to the same crossover frequency ie 80 Hz. Crossing subs at 80 and the mains at 40 will give incorrect output in the 40 - 80 Hz range.
> Try setting them the same and run REW again.
> It is also worthwhile doing a plot of sub only and main only to check the responses and levels of each.


Thanks for the advice. I will do that tonight and post the results.


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## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

robbo266317 said:


> You should have your mains and sub set to the same crossover frequency ie 80 Hz. Crossing subs at 80 and the mains at 40 will give incorrect output in the 40 - 80 Hz range.
> Try setting them the same and run REW again.
> It is also worthwhile doing a plot of sub only and main only to check the responses and levels of each.


Okay, here's a chart I have that contains the best readings of sub only, speaker only, and both. I think I have problems at 40 and 80hz. I have Audessey on w/ LFE and speaker crossover set to 80hz. The legend incorrectly states the cross @ 60hz


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

> Okay, here's a chart I have that contains the best readings of sub only, speaker only, and both.


Which trace is which?

Regards,
Wayne


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## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

Wayne A. Pflughaupt said:


> Which trace is which?
> 
> Regards,
> Wayne


Oops.

Blue = Subwoofer

Pink = Speaker

Green = Sub and Speaker


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## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

I was doing some research and on-line and I saw some suggestions for dips around the 80hz area. The most interesting one was setting my main speakers to "Full Range" or "Large" and setting the sub crossover to 100. So I am guessing that my mains will output all the way down to their bottom range and the sub will go up to 100 hz?


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## eyecatcher127 (May 9, 2006)

You should also set your mains to small and re run the setup. It appears your running your mains at Full Range.


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

Sorry for the late response I had to go away for several days.

From the graphs the sub looks like it is set to crossover at 80 Hz correctly although the mains still seem to be set to 40 Hz.

From the graphs you can also clearly see the dip at 42 Hz is an interaction between the subs and mains as they are both above 70 dB by themselves but combined it is about 13 dB down.
Are you able to set the mains to 80 Hz and repost?


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## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

robbo266317 said:


> Sorry for the late response I had to go away for several days.
> 
> From the graphs the sub looks like it is set to crossover at 80 Hz correctly although the mains still seem to be set to 40 Hz.
> 
> ...


Will do.


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## Zeitgeist (Apr 4, 2009)

What are the room dimensions?

Could be a room mode near there.

I spent time investigating some peaks and dips only to find that they correlate perfectly with calculated room modes.


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## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

Zeitgeist said:


> What are the room dimensions?
> 
> Could be a room mode near there.
> 
> I spent time investigating some peaks and dips only to find that they correlate perfectly with calculated room modes.


Approximately 25' by 15'. The right wall has a bit of an angle in the back as that is where the sump pump sits. So the back wall is approximately 12 feet.


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## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

robbo266317 said:


> Sorry for the late response I had to go away for several days.
> 
> From the graphs the sub looks like it is set to crossover at 80 Hz correctly although the mains still seem to be set to 40 Hz.
> 
> ...


Here are my readings with speakers crossed at 80. A slight improvement, but still a problem I think


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## JohnM (Apr 11, 2006)

Worth changing the sub polarity to see what effect it has on that notch around 80Hz.


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## gperkins_1973 (Aug 25, 2008)

I had a similar issue with my subs. I played around with the phase and speaker/sub crossover frequencies and it came out 100% better.


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

I agree with John, Change the sub polarity and rescan.
Cheers,
Bill


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## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

My sub has 2 phase settings - 180 deg and 0 deg. For every crossover setting or room placement, the 80 and 40 hz dips were greater at 0 deg. So I stuck with the 180 degree settings, set my mains to run at Full and crossed the sub over at 100 hz and the results at 40 and 80 were much more favorable at these settings when the sub was placed on the left side of the room. For the sub placed against the left corner:









For the sub along the wall:









So it looks like I solved the problem around 40Hz when placing the sub in the corner, improved the readings at 80, but took a bit of a hit at 100+. Here's today's best readings combined with the best reading with the sub and speakers crossed at 80. Green is the 80 cross setting with the sub in the corner, light blue is sub crossed at 100 with mains set to Large, and dark blue is sub in corners, crossed at 100 with speakers set to large.








Would I be correct in assuming I should stick with the Speakers = large, sub in corner and crossed @ 100?

Should I also be thinking of some kind of EQ like the BFD?


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

So it doesn't look like room interactions if it is 25'x 15' with either a 7 or 8 foot ceiling.
Can you plot the mains and sub separately so we can compare with the overall graphs?


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## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

robbo266317 said:


> So it doesn't look like room interactions if it is 25'x 15' with either a 7 or 8 foot ceiling.
> Can you plot the mains and sub separately so we can compare with the overall graphs?


I just picked up a new ECM microphone and XENYX 502. I will run REW with them tonight and post graphs. Would it be helpful I posting pictures of my little room, too?


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## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

robbo266317 said:


> So it doesn't look like room interactions if it is 25'x 15' with either a 7 or 8 foot ceiling.
> Can you plot the mains and sub separately so we can compare with the overall graphs?


I ran REW again, this time with the ECM mic. There is a pronounced dip at the 140 hz area now









Here are the results of the sub and speaker. 









I'll post the sub only later tonight. I have sound treatments in the 4 corners and at the first reflection point. How can I attack that valley between 140 and 160 ??


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

waxlroyce said:


> How can I attack that valley between 140 and 160 ??


It's difficult to know what's causing the dip, Hopefully when we see the subs only and the mains only graphs it will give a better idea of what is actually going on here.


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## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

double post


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## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

robbo266317 said:


> It's difficult to know what's causing the dip, Hopefully when we see the subs only and the mains only graphs it will give a better idea of what is actually going on here.


Okay, here it goes ...

Speaker Only with Mic in close








Speaker only from the listening position








The sub from the listening position








Sub and speaker, listening position (Speaker at Full Range, Sub crossed @ 100)


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

I need to research the HSU STF-2 a bit more, However the sub only plot doesn't look right.
It looks as though it has a 40 Hz low pass filter applied to it. :scratch:
I will see if I can dig up some info on it.


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## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

robbo266317 said:


> I need to research the HSU STF-2 a bit more, However the sub only plot doesn't look right.
> It looks as though it has a 40 Hz low pass filter applied to it. :scratch:
> I will see if I can dig up some info on it.


Should I check my AVR settings and see if the fronts were crossed at 40hz? I know I ran them at full range for the other measurements but I was playing around with the spreaker cross points when taking the sub measurements just to see if there was any variation.


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## eyecatcher127 (May 9, 2006)

Can you let us know what kind of speakers you have for your mains? and what AVR you have? You mentioned audyssey but we don't know what flavor. Based on your near field measurement I'd suggest small 80-100hz crossover not full. I think the 140-160hz issue you may be room effected since when you nearfield you have smooth response, or you may have overlapping crossover points, causing phase issues due to running your mains full/large. Could also be an allison effect from stands. Also are you using a direct, stereo mode or a listening mode applied when you run your rew measurement? Is audyssey on or off? These can effect response as well. 

I'd confirm your bypasssing the crossover on your HSU sub completely and using the one in the AVR. Audyssey recommends 120hz for LFE. This LFE is for the .1 channel only from digital content. If you listen to 2 channel analog, your sub crossover is determined by your Main's crossover point. Sometimes it is best to keep them all matching say 80-100hz. Audyssey determines the main's xo based on a -3db frequency response rating it measured. It is usually pretty close. You can lower it but it won't apply any correction to it, plus it could adversley effect the overall response.

I'd suggest finding the sticky and reading about audyssey calibration and starting over. Before calibrating, set the sub phase to 0, and bypass the crossover on the sub or turn it all the way up. Then set the sub speaker level on the AVR to 0 then adjust the input level gain on the sub to somewhere between 75db not more than 80 db with pink noise from avr, this should give you around a 0 +/- few db speaker level in your AVR close to the mains when complete. Then re-run Audyssey calibration from your listening position at least 18" from any wall or reflection source mic pointed up, and then please post mains with with sub powered off then disconnect mains, and post with sub on only and both on and let us know the x/o's for the main. Your Calibrated mic should be placed with a stand in a verticle orientation and you should be applying a 90 degree cal correction. This should be a good baseline starting point now, hope that helps.


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## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

eyecatcher127 said:


> Can you let us know what kind of speakers you have for your mains? and what AVR you have? You mentioned audyssey but we don't know what flavor. Based on your near field measurement I'd suggest small 80-100hz crossover.
> 
> I'd confirm your bypasssing the crossover on your HSU sub completely and using the one in the AVR Audyssey recommends 120hz for LFE with phase set to 0. Your sub crossover is determined by your Main's crossover point. Audyssey should determine this based on a -3db frequency response rating it measured. It is usually pretty close.
> 
> Set the sub input level to somewhere between 75db to 80 db with pink noise, this should give you around 0 speaker level in your AVR. You read and re run Audyssey calibration from your listening position at least 18" from any wall or reflection source mic pointed up, and then please post mains with with sub powered off then disconnect mains, and post with sub on only. Your Calibrated mic should be placed verticle and you should be applying a 90 degree correction. Hope that helps. Also are you using a direct, stereo mode or a listening mode applied when you run your rew measurement?


My main speakers are DIY speaker designs developed my the guys at htguide.com. They are referred to as the NatP's. My AVR is an Onkyo TX-SR805. My usual settings for the mains and sub were crossed at 80 hz but after playing around with REW, I set the mains to Full Range and Sub to 100 hz. I'll re-run Audyssey setting the main and sub cross at 80 MHZ and post the settings based on the Audyssey run along with the new REW graphs.

Also, I using Stereo with my REW. I was under the assumption that the sub would not be heard if I ran it in Direct Mode.

Thanks for all of the feedback.


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## eyecatcher127 (May 9, 2006)

Those Natp's look like a very nice design. I'd think 80hz should be ideal. That 805 unit has Audyssey XT and some respectable clean power, that should get you a pretty good setup. I don't think you can get the sub in direct mode with the 805, it will light up the sw if it can. On some avr's it does, I can go to Audio Adjust and enable the sub from analog sources on my 3008, and it also uses audyssey eq. Otherwise Stereo would be where you would want to be. Definetly bypass the sub crossover on the sub itself and phase to 0, check your levels. Also, setting the mains to full range is going to bypass the sub in stereo mode unless you set double bass on which I'd recommend you leave off. I'm curious what audyssey detects the crossover on the mains at. Good luck.


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

Good advice Ben. It is always worthwhile stepping back, turning all filters, including Audyssey, off and start fresh.
After turning all filters off I would go into setup -> speaker settings and turn subwoofer on (if it needs it set the crossover to 80 Hz)
Then runs some sweeps without Audyssey and adjust the sub level and phase to get the best graphs.
After this run Audyssey to try and smooth the graphs.
(I looked up your sub and it should have more output above 40 Hz, so make sure it's filters are definitely turned off)
Keep us posted.


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## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

Thanks again for all of that great advice eyecatcher and robbo. I followed your advice and re-ran Audessey, setting sub phase to zero, bypassed crossover on sub, and set sub level on AVR to 0. After getting measurements from 4 sitting points Audessey suggest the following settings:

Front : Full Range
Center : Full Range
Surround : 100
Back surround : 60

So I ran REW again and got these results:









So I adjusted the Audessey settings and crossed the fronts over to 80hz. The result was better. Now instead of a valley between 140-160, it now looks like I have a bump between 80 and 140









Here's REW w/ sub only








And here are the speakers only


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

Ok the dip at 80 Hz is apparent in both your mains and sub only graph so must be a room interaction along with the dip at 140 to 180.
The question is how do they sound to you now?

The low response seems acceptable but I am at a loss as the room mode calculators do not tally with the dips in your graphs.
Can you do a sketchup of your room including distance to seating?


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## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

robbo266317 said:


> Ok the dip at 80 Hz is apparent in both your mains and sub only graph so must be a room interaction along with the dip at 140 to 180.
> The question is how do they sound to you now?
> 
> The low response seems acceptable but I am at a loss as the room mode calculators do not tally with the dips in your graphs.
> Can you do a sketchup of your room including distance to seating?


Okay, here it is at last. The drawing may be to scale but the measurements are correct.


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

Ok, Thanks for your patience. 

Can you do a sweep at 170" for me (about 14 feet) and post the graph. 
This equates to 38% back from rear wall as described here:- http://www.realtraps.com/art_room-setup.htm

Cheers,
Bill.


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## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

robbo266317 said:


> Ok, Thanks for your patience.
> 
> Can you do a sweep at 170" for me (about 14 feet) and post the graph.
> This equates to 38% back from rear wall as described here:- http://www.realtraps.com/art_room-setup.htm
> ...



Thanks for all of the answers. It has been a good learning experience for me. I will try to do it before the weekend is over.


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## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

robbo266317 said:


> Ok, Thanks for your patience.
> 
> Can you do a sweep at 170" for me (about 14 feet) and post the graph.
> This equates to 38% back from rear wall as described here:- http://www.realtraps.com/art_room-setup.htm
> ...


I feel a bit dumb but I gave out the wrong room dimensions - I used the measurements from my old basement layout. My room is actually 13'x18'. Would this change the results that you are getting in room node calculations?


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## Zeitgeist (Apr 4, 2009)

Good site to play with room modes:
http://www.bobgolds.com/Mode/RoomModes.htm

I think that 80hz might be OK, but make sure to put in width, length AND height


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## shinksma (Aug 12, 2010)

waxlroyce said:


> My main speakers are DIY speaker designs developed my the guys at htguide.com. They are referred to as the NatP's. My AVR is an Onkyo TX-SR805. My usual settings for the mains and sub were crossed at 80 hz but after playing around with REW, I set the mains to Full Range and Sub to 100 hz. I'll re-run Audyssey setting the main and sub cross at 80 MHZ and post the settings based on the Audyssey run along with the new REW graphs.
> 
> Also, I using Stereo with my REW. I was under the assumption that the sub would not be heard if I ran it in Direct Mode.
> 
> Thanks for all of the feedback.


(delurking for second time today)

I'm using this older post just to touch on some subjects, since I got confused reading through the thread trying to figure out what the baseline of settings is for the latest crop of measurements:

Even the best full-range speakers have their limitations, especially as the low-freq content of the FL and FR channels get energetic. Your speaker-only near-field measurement shows that your speakers drop off drastically below 60Hz (assuming you had them set to Full - I couldn't tell if you resolved what the setting was for that measurement). 

I would set your FL+FR speaker "size" to 60Hz on the receiver. (You can leave your center at 60Hz and the surrounds at 100Hz - won't affect these tests.) You mention you have your Sub cross-over set to 100Hz: there shouldn't be a separate SW cross-over in the AVR, but there is an LFE low-pass filter setting: set that as high as possible, otherwise you are throwing away content from your LFE input.

On your Subwoofer itself, set any cross-over knob as high as possible, and/or use the LFE input if there is one. The AVR is doing the cross-over filtering, don't need the SW adding to the confusion.

Yes, use Stereo mode on the AVR.

Turn OFF the Audyssey settings for now, do not use any EQ - the EQ and other magic that Audyssey does could be obscuring your system's raw response characteristics. Once we all understand the system raw response, then we can re-run and apply Audyssey to see what the effect is.

Set the speaker distances to actual distances measured via a tape measure if you think the current settings done by Audyssey are not quite right.

Now re-run REW for SW only, one speaker only, and SW + 2 mains, all at the main LP. Note that if (as suggested) the speaker sizes are set to 60Hz then your graphs will show the SW crossover at 60Hz, not the "usual" 80Hz.

Next, run Audyssey, but make sure to set the speaker sizes to 60Hz if Audyssey changes them. Now re-run REW again. We should be able to see if Audyssey is helping or hindering your situation.

Does that help clarify anything? Or am I being obtuse and I just wasted everyone's time reading this?

shinksma


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## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

shinksma said:


> (delurking for second time today)
> 
> I'm using this older post just to touch on some subjects, since I got confused reading through the thread trying to figure out what the baseline of settings is for the latest crop of measurements:
> 
> ...


Thanks for the reply. The suggested setting for the LFE on the AVR is 80Hz (THX). So you are saying to put that to the highest setting (110hz)?


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## shinksma (Aug 12, 2010)

waxlroyce said:


> Thanks for the reply. The suggested setting for the LFE on the AVR is 80Hz (THX). So you are saying to put that to the highest setting (110hz)?


Yes. Better yet, if there is a setting called "off" use that. The LFE channel content above the Low-Pass-Filter setting usually does not get re-directed to any of the other speakers - hence it is not a true cross-over (where stuff below Freq X gets sent to subwoofer and stuff above Freq X gets sent to other speakers). So if there is any audible content above 80Hz in the LFE channel, it gets thrown away if you have set the LFE LPF to 80Hz.

In general mixing engineers know that it is best to keep LFE content below 80Hz because it can be directional and therefore is best handled in the regular-channel mix, but just in case someone was sloppy at the mixing desk...

Also, the elimination of yet another filter and the effects it can have have combining with other filters is a good idea (just like drugs the combinations aren't always simply additive, they can be more complicated).

EDIT: I believe that your Onkyo 805 does not have an OFF setting for the LFE LPF, but the highest setting of 120Hz is effectively that, so set it to 120 Hz.

IMHO, at least, and AFAIK, 

shinksma


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

waxlroyce said:


> My room is actually 13'x18'.


I think some of the problem is due to seating position. 
With a room length of 18 feet and a seating position of 115" or just over 9 1/2 feet you are probably sitting in the worst possible spot for room interactions. 
Most rooms are compromises and I don't know how much latitude you have in your seating position. The recommended seating position to achieve the flattest response is 38% from either end of the room (as per http://www.realtraps.com/art_room-setup.htm ) this equates to aprox 11.2 feet or 6.8 feet. 
I would try remeasuring at these locations and see what the results are.


Cheers,
Bill.


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## gperkins_1973 (Aug 25, 2008)

Bill,

Sorry to jack this thread and I apologise to the OP but I read the last post and I have a similar issue and that my room is 17 feet wide by 17 feet long and I sit in the middle about 9 1/2 feet away from the centre front wall. I have massive ringing at 50hz which goes on for ever. I will be starting a thread adding a pic showing all dimensions to get some feedback on what would be the best options on placement etc..
I put my room size into the room node calculator and it comes up with alot off info which is not 100% clear.

cheers

Graham


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

gperkins_1973 said:


> Bill,
> 
> Sorry to jack this thread and I apologise to the OP but I read the last post and I have a similar issue and that my room is 17 feet wide by 17 feet long and I sit in the middle about 9 1/2 feet away from the centre front wall. I have massive ringing at 50hz which goes on for ever. I will be starting a thread adding a pic showing all dimensions to get some feedback on what would be the best options on placement etc..
> I put my room size into the room node calculator and it comes up with alot off info which is not 100% clear.
> ...


No problems Graham, Start your thread and we will try and improve it as best we can. 

Cheers, 
Bill


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## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

robbo266317 said:


> I think some of the problem is due to seating position.
> With a room length of 18 feet and a seating position of 115" or just over 9 1/2 feet you are probably sitting in the worst possible spot for room interactions.
> Most rooms are compromises and I don't know how much latitude you have in your seating position. The recommended seating position to achieve the flattest response is 38% from either end of the room (as per http://www.realtraps.com/art_room-setup.htm ) this equates to aprox 11.2 feet or 6.8 feet.
> I would try remeasuring at these locations and see what the results are.
> ...


6.8 feet is probably a no-go as my screen is 100" or so. I'll see about 11.2 feet. The problem is, as you may be able to tell from my crude room layout, is that right wall is at an angle due to the necessity of a sump pump for my basement. I'll do a measure at 11' and see if there is any improvement.


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## eyecatcher127 (May 9, 2006)

Do you have any smoothing enabled on your graphs? One of your last graphs appeared almost to be +/- 6db, which is not terrible in real world if this is at 1/12 octave smoothing. How does it sound? What kind of response tolerance goal are you trying to attain?

On a side not, I suspect your speakers may be port tuned a little lower than they could for a flat response, perhaps centered around 60hz? in that nearfield response plot, You could try experimenting by shorting up the port to get tuning a little higher around 75hz, probably only a inch or so, it may flatten their response out a bit too.


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## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

eyecatcher127 said:


> Do you have any smoothing enabled on your graphs? One of your last graphs appeared almost to be +/- 6db, which is not terrible in real world if this is at 1/12 octave smoothing. How does it sound? What kind of response tolerance goal are you trying to attain?
> 
> On a side not, I suspect your speakers may be port tuned a little lower than they could for a flat response, perhaps centered around 60hz? in that nearfield response plot, You could try experimenting by shorting up the port to get tuning a little higher around 75hz, probably only a inch or so, it may flatten their response out a bit too.


No smoothing, as far as I know. I really liked the way everything sounds but I don't feel that I am feeling enough punch in the bass area.


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## eyecatcher127 (May 9, 2006)

I think your beating yourself up. I think your acoustics look good for no smoothing. Put it on 1/24 or 1/12 smoothing, your probably within +/-3db, which is about the threshold for the ear and very respectable for in room response. 

I'd personally recommend upgrading to a larger sub if your looking to acheive reference levels. The HSU STF-2 is probably going to come up a little short in output for the size of that room, max clean output is prob around 100db at the seat, I'd expect. You'd need a little more to blow you out of the seat. I'd make sure the LFE XO is 120hz, switched to out or bypass on the subwoofer. You may want to try to up the crossover on the mains and surrounds to 90 or 100hz, this will give you more punch in the midbass area. The sub is going to play louder and cleaner (less distortion) than the mains and surrounds can below 100hz. With the sub in the front corner, it will be tough to localize. You should still have relatively flat response doing this. If you check out your response from the main and surrounds only at the listening position, nearfield and farfield you can see at 75db that the low end response starts to drop below 100hz and probably more at louder levels. You can't really ask for more out of a bookshelf mtm arrangement with 6.5" woofers. I've never heard the nat p's perform but I dont think they are capable for full range, even though at nearfield and on paper they probably reach low. That's why I suggest 90 to 100hz for the main crossover from my previous recommendation of 80hz. I think that would be their usable limit in a high output level in your room and give you some better mid bass output at louder listening levels you desire.

Also use an spl meter to verify all channels levels on the sub are at 75db. Your 805 doesnt have audyssey dynamic eq, which is not a limitation. Dynamic eq maintains a balance per ocatve to even out the sound of loudness in the bass range to the ear. To compensate, as a taste preference from your flat response since you don't have Dynamic eq, many people raise the sub a few db, maybe 3db at a time or up to 80db. Thats what I used to doe before I had dynamic eq. See how that sounds. Personally I don't like how flat sounds either.

I think with some fine adjustments you should be satisifed, but then again are perfectionists ever?


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## waxlroyce (Apr 11, 2011)

eyecatcher127 said:


> I think your beating yourself up. I think your acoustics look good for no smoothing. Put it on 1/24 or 1/12 smoothing, your probably within +/-3db, which is about the threshold for the ear and very respectable for in room response.
> 
> I'd personally recommend upgrading to a larger sub if your looking to acheive reference levels. The HSU STF-2 is probably going to come up a little short in output for the size of that room, max clean output is prob around 100db at the seat, I'd expect. You'd need a little more to blow you out of the seat.


I am actually in the process of building my own sub - probably going with a 15" Rythmik. I'll be sure to update my REW charts when that is done.


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