# Beginning the finish out... now what...



## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Time to get your guys input...

History:
We had our house built and moved in on Halloween. The house was built with the media room option over the living room and before the builder sheet rocked I was able to at least get my wiring in. The house is wired to whole house audio, and streams from the Puter downstairs. I ran Cat 6 everywhere for an intercom, and an seperate network of Cat 6 to all the media centers to the office where the router and Mac are located. So I am hardwired to the router for downloading movies to Apple TV soon.

Now that we are here, I have finished my hookups for the media, and got the Home Theater hooked up and running, and calibrated it for the present situation. 

Heres where you guys come in...
Time for the pretty up, and finish out of the room to turn it from a dedicated media room to a true home theater.

Specs:
Sony HW10 Projector
Peerless mount
Elunevision 1.2 gain 120" white screen
Denon 2809ci hooked HDMI to the projector
Sony BDP350 Bluray player
Uverse
Apple TV
Samsung DVD player (for playing DVD audio discs) More on that later
Klipsch F3 mains
Klipsch C3 Center
Klipsch S3 surrounds
Klipsch 12 Sub

Room: 
18'x18'x8'
4 Berkline 13174 seats in curved configuration
Rack to be determined

So next up:
Acoustics and paint

The room has an echo, and little mid range bass even with the sub and dual woofers on the towers.
The only acoustic plan for sure so far is to deaden the front wall by completley covering it will 1.5" or 2" JM814. Wedge shaped bass traps will go in the front corners floor to ceiling, and the screen will be remounted placed away from the wall a few inches to accomodate rope lights behind it.

Other than that... I am open for suggestions for decorations, and acoustic treatments. let me add right now that I know the proper thing to do would be to get someone in here to measure the acoustics and follow thier advice, but I also know what I want to hear in the room, and I dont hear it yet.

As far as decor, the front wall will be covered with black fabric, either burlap or GOM701 as will the bass traps. The side walls will get panels at the reflecting points and/or a chair rail hieght acoustic treatment all the way around the room and 2x2 panels at the reflecting points. 

I am open to suggestions for color, design, acoustics, and whatever else you have. 
Thanks for looking...heres the snappers...
Kirby

p.s. I think we have narrowed the walls to a brown, and I found a bargain on Speaker fabric so that is what I will use on the bass traps and screen wall...


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

We are going to go with Berkline 13174's more than likely in Brown if the walls turn out to be lighter than we think, or the tan 12003.

Kirby


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

You may also need some additional bass control on the rear wall.

You should cut off your main speakers at 80hz and cross them over to the sub. If you're running the mains full range and overlapping the sub, you can actually be causing cancellations.

Don't count on the receiver calibration - most don't work well. Use a meter to set your SPL levels yourself. 

Take a LOT of time experimenting with seating position and sub postion. Those 2 things can make a TON of difference in bass response.

Just a comment - that sub isn't all that strong to fill what looks like a pretty big space. You might want to consider a bigger sub or a 2nd one. I wouldn't do it until you've spent a lot of time with the setup portion. 

Walls should be as dark as possible. Front wall should be black - ceiling too if you can swing it. This will help a ton with video dynamic contrast.

Bryan


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

THanks Bryan;

Its a 12" sub, I would have thought it was enough. If you were to put two subs in a room like this, do they have to be the same size? I have a Klipsch 10" as well I can add. 

I will try the cutoff, that makes sense.

We found a color pallette last night that I think we like. Brown Microsuede leather fabric, Khaki Suede, and Khaki burlap for panels which will be on the darker walls. 

The front wall and bass traps will be covered with the Speaker matierial over 1.5" jm 814 and the Bass traps will be the triangle broad range in the front corners in a square column 1' thick. I will build a rack in the back left corner that will have bass trap at the bottem built into the cabinet, also covered with black speaker fabric.

The question is:
on the screen wall, between the floor to ceiling bass trap, I am thinking of putting a heavy black curtain. What effect will this have on the screen wall reflections from the mains?

THanks
Kirby


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

The curtain should have little impact over what the 1.5" 814 is already doing. 

As for the corner absorbers, I'd make them a little bigger. Try 17x17x24" triangles instead of 12x12x17" ones. That will give you more surface area and also deeper extension.

For the sub, I'd likely do a 2nd 12". Doesn't even have to be the same brand. You just need more oomph (pardon the technical term) in the bottom end. Something like the HSU Research VTF III would be outstanding.

Bryan


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## tonyvdb (Sep 5, 2007)

With your room being 18x18 your going to have some real issues with cancellation and boomyness.

A perfect square is the worst for acoustics but of course you have it and now have to work with it. I suggest raising the screen at least a foot higher and raising your center at least that much as well so its even with the tweeters on your mains.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

That's another good reason for 2 subs. You can use placement to help with tuning around some of the issues from it being square. 

Bryan


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Does the wattage on the second sub have to be the same if they are not the same brand?

So I guess I am in the market for a second sub... Seating first though... and fabric. I have that 10" I may put up there for the moment jsut to get the placement in the general area.

I really dont want to build a false wall, so hopefully I can make it work as a square. I plan on a soffet so that I can hide the curtain rods, and some screen lighting. 

Man Bryan, you just doubled my Bass trap costs... 

Kirby


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Is the 1.5" JM 814 enough or do I need the 2" on the screen wall? 
And is it necessary if I am putting heavy curtains infront of it in places?

Kirby


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

This is going to be a killer HT room ....:yes:

You're right about the sub, it has to be the same specifications or as close as possible, I used a Velodine and Infinity sub, but both were 150watts, 10" ...so we can say, similar.

If you can get the 2" fiberglass instead of 1.5" ...I think it will work better, maybe Bryan can help you there.

I like the curtains idea, but I think that it will look a lot better with a false wall.

Good luck :T


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Well, you can play a lot with the level control of the sub to get things to match better. They won't be identical settings anyway if they're in 2 different places in the room. 

Bryan


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Looks like a nice room...Pity about the room dimensions though..
Apart from what's already been mentioned here, I would suggest that you also place several 4" thick acoustic panels across the back wall..This will also aid in taming down the reverberations..


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Doing some math and measurements...
What would be the opinion of using anywhere from 17-24" wide x 12" deep square bass traps in the front corners?

Since these are 8' ceilings if I do it that way, I get 4 pieces per panel, and since the 1.5" is 1/2 the price of the 2" (Dont ask me why), I can use the 1.5", cut 64 pieces, and end up with floor to ceiling for less than $100 each plus wood and fabric.

Do I need to set these traps off from the wall, or put it right against the wall?

Thanks
kirby


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

If you cut 17x17x24" triangles, you'll get 8 pcs per panel. It's not quite as thick on average as a 24"x12" but it still performs very well.

In either case, they're thick enough that you can use them pretty much right against the wall.

Bryan


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Okay some decisions have been made. 

Walls-
Cost of treating the whole room with the fabric we like is too high. 
We will be painting the walls above a chair rail a darkish tan to match the carpet. 
Below the chair rail will be a dark microsuede fabric

Panels- 
I will build 6'x2' acoustic panels, framed, and covered with Burlap. They will be as evenly spaced as possible, and I believe 8 will be the magic number. The sides will be 2" thick, and the back wall will be 4" thick. 

Screen wall-
The screen wall will be covered completley with 1.5" JM814, be hind frames of Black speaker fabric. 

Bass traps-
Floor to ceiling bass traps will be used made either from 12"x24" squares, or 17x17x24" triangles. the rear left corner will have a bass trap below and above a custom built rack. Next to the rack will be a concession counter top.

Decor-
I will hang black velvet curtains next to the screen

Soffet-
I will build a 12"x6" soffet around the room, filled with insulation and panel covered with the black fabric. I will use this to hide the curtain rods, and add screen lighting as well as some uplighting to the ceiling.

two things still under debate:
What color to paint the ceiling (Black or a dark brown to match the carpet)

what color to paint the molding, doors, and outlets (leave it white, paint it black, or a dark brown)

Opinions on the last three and suggestions are of course welcome on the rest.

Kirby


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

kepople said:


> What color to paint the ceiling (Black or a dark brown to match the carpet)


If you'll be painting the top part of the walls with a dark brown, maybe you can use the same color on the ceiling or one or two shades darker, (I painted mine that way)



> what color to paint the molding, doors, and outlets (leave it white, paint it black, or a dark brown)


For moldings I used two shades lighter than the wal color, and for outlets same color as walls (or you an also use the molding color).



> Below the chair rail will be a dark microsuede fabric


I used this  Accoustic Fabric/carpet  (see picture in the spoiler, never mind the colors, they look better in person) ...I don't know if is a big $$$ difference between microsuede or this fabric.


*Spoiler* 














*Spoiler*


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

That all sounds very good..



> what color to paint the molding, doors, and outlets (leave it white, paint it black, or a dark brown)
> 
> Opinions on the last three and suggestions are of course welcome on the rest.


I painted my floor mouldings, door, power outlets and anything else attached to the walls all the same as the wall colour..
That way, everything blends in..but it's really a personal preference..


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## swithey (Dec 15, 2006)

Kirby,

I think your room is going to turn out great. A buddy of mine did one with lighter walls (kind of a medium to medium light tan/beige) for WAF and he has not noticed any issues with light reflection, etc.

As for your sub, don't forget you could build one yourself (if you have the skills and some basic tools). You could put some serious bass in there for not too much cash. However, nothing beats writing a check and having one show up on your porch a few days later :R


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

As promised, here are the photos of the WAF taped off plan on walls. 

There is a photo of the color pallette we like. The seating will be black. 
Screen wall will be covered with that black fabric, as will the bass traps. I will use triangle 17x17x24 traps, but the enclosure will be the shape thats taped off on the floor to make it less obvious. If I have extra insulation, I will fill the void as well.

The panels on the wall will be 2" thick
The screen wall will be 2" thick
The back wall 3 panels will be 4" thick

I think this gives me about 60 coverage on the walls. the ceiling will get a 2" panel at the reflection point. 

Colors:
Chair rail probably black, brown, or stained oak
Above the rail will be the beige paint
below the rail will be the dark brown micro suede
Ceiling will be black or DARK brown...

Still under debate:
Build a counter in the back next to the cabinet
Soffet around the room to hide the lighting
trim color (including a frame that will be built around each panel from 1x stock)
Curtains on the front screen wall

Opinions welcome, escpecially the items under debate.

Thanks
Kirby


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## raw23062 (Feb 6, 2008)

Looks awesome man. Can't wait to see the finished product. Those paint samples look exactly like the paint I used for my media room. If you want to see it on the walls take a peek at mine. Keep the pics coming!


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

I'm glad everything is working out for you :T



kepople said:


> Build a counter in the back next to the cabinet
> Soffet around the room to hide the lighting
> trim color (including a frame that will be built around each panel from 1x stock)
> Curtains on the front screen wall...


Do you plan to add a second row in the future??? ...if you do, I think is a good idea to build the counter in one of the sides instead (my room is 18' long, the space from back wall to second row is just 1').

Soffit is a good idea to hide lighting and wires/cables.

Trim color, as the Prof said ...is a personal choice, try different color options and see which one you like better.

About the curtains, I think it maybe cheaper and look better if you build a false wall in the front; you can use the black fabric and some wood ...but that's my opinion :whistling:


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

I am not sure about a second row. At the moment, we are doing 4 chairs, and throwing a couple bean bags in front for the kids. Never enough seating right...

Now the rush is on to finish as much as I can and get it back together for the Super bowl...

All that was accomplished today was to get some wood, and pre paint the furring strips I am gong to use to contain the Mineral wool. I did pull the front molding off that will be behind the stage and make a few measurements.

Tomorrow I will go to Sherwin williams for paint, and hopefully get started.

The ceiling plan as changed. (my designs are always evolving)... I have settled on a stage shape, and it will go full span of the front wall. I will then duplicate that pattern on the ceiling lowering it about 6" where I can hide some lights, and the curtain rods. Hopefully kill a few more stray sound waves.

THe back wall counter will be the last thing I do, so I bet I can have my mind changed about its location.

Thanks...
Kirby


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

I do have a quesiton of opinion... The wall jacks where the speaker wires come out the front wall will need to still be accessable behind the insulation. Should I move the jack to the front of the insulation or just cut a hole the the fabric and let the wires dissappear?

THanks
Kirby


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

It's easy enough to fir out from the wall for the thickness of the insulation and mount the low voltage box on that. You also use the firring to staple the cloth. The cover plate makes for a nice, clean look IMO.

Bryan


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Officially under way now...
Well, slow progress is some progress. I was given a local source contact to buy Insulation just as I was about to drive to Fort Worth. After talking with them on the phone, I decided to get what I need from them. 18 jm814, 9 Mineral wool (fyi they were only 47" long), 38.5"x50' linacoustic.
After talking with the guy there, I decided for a couple reasons to go with 1.5" Linacoustic for the front wall after all. It was a little cheaper per sqft, but since I wont need it all I guess it cost me more. Oh well, I have an HVAC in the attic that I can use it to help shut it up...
They had everything instock, and I walked through thier warehouse, only to see Piles of bundles of JM 814, 815 etc. I thought of you guys :yikes::duh::jump: What a sight... Okay... enough oogling...

I cut the Wool with a serrated knife I purchased from the insulation place, and it cut like butter. 
I also removed the carpet from the corner where the stage will be under the bass traps, framed it out, filled it with sand and topped it with the pad to level it. Decked it, stacked the wool, and framed it for fabric treatment. I am just going to cover it now, to keep the kids out, but will build the final column shape frame later. 

Question: Since my Mains will sit on the stage, is it better to fill that section with Sand or JM814?

Wont get to work on it tomorrow, but hopefully tuesday.

Kirby


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Oh yeah, forgot to mention my little incident... After I pulled the molding loose this morning, I decided to move the speaker. Idiot!!! I know to wear shoes, but I was just tinkering, not working in ernest... Well, Stepped back, and stepped right on the trim molding. A nail went into my heel about 2". In the recoil from that, another nail went into my other heel in the meet and went all the way through. I did not feel it or notice it until I was fixing up the puncture in the other heel. It went through the tough part, so I just pulled it out, and my wife nurse unit patched me up... IDIOT!!!

You know the lesson learned from that story. I promise I am not accident prone...

Kirby


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Been there done that - but I still cringed thinking about it again. Take care of those or your project will slow to a halt.

Bryan


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## davidsons (Jan 19, 2009)

Looking good Kirby. Can't wait to try out the finished product.

Watch out for those nails.

Steve


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

So, Sand under the speakers or Insulation?

Thanks for condolences on the wounds...

Kirby


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## swithey (Dec 15, 2006)

kepople said:


> So, Sand under the speakers or Insulation?
> 
> Thanks for condolences on the wounds...
> 
> Kirby


Kirby,

Looks like you are making some nice progress. That mineral wool should do nicely as bass traps.

As for the sand or insulation, sand would be more dense/solid. However, you could probably fill it as tight as possible with JM814 or even the 'ole pink stuff from HD. That is all I put under my 2' deep false wall flooring. 

NOTE: I do hear quite a bit of bass in the garage below but I don't case since it is a garage. 
























And sorry to hear about the foot. I was working late one night and dropped a hammer on my big toe - claw side down. I was in such a groove, I wrapped it in a paper towel, taped it closed and went back to work. I wasn't about to wake my wife since it was probably 1am. Less learned was to always wear shoes :duh:


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Cuts, splinters and numerous injuries are all part of DIY theater!!.:bigsmile:


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

If insulation is fine under the speakers, then I may use the mineral wool sinces its thick already, and is cheaper than 814... 

Kirby


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Some progress last night. Got some 2x6's and 1x2 poplar to build the bass trap covers, planed them to the thickness I wanted and rounded over the edges, then painted them all Black. I also painted the Mineral Wool that was installed already black with spray paint... whew... time to get out of that room... debating if I need to install a 1x2 to make sure the wool never falls down...

kirby


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

I hope you didn't paint any mineral wool that was for any reflection duties. The paint closes up the pores and stops it from being effective at higher frequencies.

Bryan


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

I painted the bass trap mineral wool. I did not coat it, just misted it to darken the wool so you could not see it through the matierial. I am not going to paint any of the JM814. 

Did I screw up?
I can scrape it off without too much damage. 

With the Linacoustic, I was told to mount it to the wall with the fabric-ish side out. Is that correct or should the glass face out?

Kirby


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

You can do the Linacoustic with the fabric side out. That's very thin and actually slightly porous itself.

If it's just bass control that you painted and it's not on the front wall, you're likely OK. I usually recommend just putting a layer of black muslin in front of the absorption and behind the GOM cloth. That's very inexpensive and does what you want without causing changes in the acoustical properties.

Bryan


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

These are now misted black...

Is that a problem Bryan?
Thier intent was really bass only. Was going to do the muslin, and thought this would be better. oopss...

THanks
kirby


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

It'll probably be OK as is.

Bryan


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Hope so... I will be able to remove the covers, and I could shave the painted part off if you think its best. Its only on the surface and a light mist. I will photo later I guess.

k


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

okay, had to work late, so all I was able to do was to cut some Black 2x2 to stand off the screen wall speaker wall jacks. There are two electrical outlets there that the builder put in. I painted them black and plugged them with child proof plug covers. I will never use them. 
So do you guys think its necessary to stand them off?

If so, I cant move the boxes, so whats the best way to do this?

Cut a box and insert it into the other then mount it with 2x2?

Thanks
kirby


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Learn something new every day...

Well, how do you stand off Electrical outlets, and speaker jacks?

I bought 4 of the standoffs. The first one flushes the box with the wall properly, then the second one can screw to the first with 2" sheet rock screws, and Viola! its very solid, and should stick out just enough...

I used 2x2 to stand off the Speaker jacks, and the one cat6 jack on the screen wall. (No thats not where I wanted it, but the builder blew it.) I had already ran my own Cat6 to the rack anyway, so thats where I will get my hard Internet feed for BDLive, downloading movies, and firmware updates. Still not sure why every electronic piece of equipment you buy does not have wifi built in.

Anyway... THANKS Guys!

Kirby


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## Space (Jul 18, 2007)

kepople said:


> If insulation is fine under the speakers, then I may use the mineral wool sinces its thick already, and is cheaper than 814...
> 
> Kirby


If you are trying to decouple the speakers from a hard surface, then you want something of as much or more density. Sand is an option but requires some type of enclosure to contain it[the sand]. You could use concrete blocks or bricks. A little imagination and you could have a good solid stable speaker stand with a nice looking finish.

Just my 2


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Space said:


> If you are trying to decouple the speakers from a hard surface, then you want something of as much or more density. Sand is an option but requires some type of enclosure to contain it[the sand]. You could use concrete blocks or bricks. A little imagination and you could have a good solid stable speaker stand with a nice looking finish.
> 
> Just my 2


I would like to eliminate the echo inside of stage that will occur when I put the speakers on it. 
The carpet and pad should help decouple from the plywood. 

I have a bunch of bricks is that a good idea?

Kirby
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Space (Jul 18, 2007)

kepople said:


> I would like to eliminate the echo inside of stage that will occur when I put the speakers on it.
> The carpet and pad should help decouple from the plywood.
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


The carpet and pad will have very small effect towards stopping sound vibrations from moving from the speaker to the plywood deck/stage.

The stage should have insulation in it, this will stop the "echo".

If it proves to[the stage] be an issue with your speakers, you can add another layer of 3/4" MDF to the top side of the stage. This will help add density to decouple the two and also go along way in deducing noise in the stage chambers.


And, I hope I have helped 

Brien


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Agreed. Ideally, the stage would be filled with sand to make it completely massive and inert.  If that's not something you want to do, the filling it FULL with insulation is a must. If you don't, it's just going to act like a great big drum.

I'd also recommend 2 layers of 3/4" MDF glued together to increase the mass and stiffness of the platform the speakers and especially sub will be sitting on.

Bryan


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

since the stage is framed I can fill with sand or insulation or both. I was planning on sand below the speakers and insulation under the rest. I am using 3/4 ply under the bass traps but I can add mdf and ply under the rest. 

Spent the weekend painting and adding molding. Just about ready to start screen wall. 

Kirby
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

If the top is rigid and is seriously attached (glued and screwed) to the framing, you can get by with some sand and some insulation. 

Realistically, any sand you put in under the speaker/sub cavities is a huge improvement over what most people do. Just make sure that wherever you are will support the weight.

Bryan


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Not looking forward to lugging all that sand upstairs... 

Crown molding up tonight, then I will post some more photos. 

kirby


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Seriously, if you're not in a basement, you need to have someone come out and calculate if the structure will hold the extra weight.

Bryan


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Really? 
Its a new construction house with the wooden Ibeam construction under it. Should be able to handle it. 

Okay, so now that you have me nervious...
What is the weight per sq inch? any idea?

So to be safe, am I better off filling the voids with the mineral wool?

Kirby


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

I'm just saying to get someone out there to be safe. If you were filling the whole thing, I'd say probably not and certainly get a structural engineer. 

A lot would depend on the thickness of the floor joists, the joist spacing, and the span they're sitting on top of. What is the live and dead load ratings of the beams you have?

Bryan


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

I will call the builder...

So, if not using sand, fill with mineral wool?

I will get to the stage after the super bowl I think..

kirby


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Mineral wool is fine. You can actually also just use standard wall insulation with cavities filled. The idea is simply to keep it from acting like a drum and resonating. 

Bryan


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Thanks Bryan;

I may just jam it full with pink stuff then, and keep my mineral wool for use in the back corner as planned. It will go below the Electronics in the rack, covered with speaker fabric.

kirby


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

kepople said:


> So, if not using sand, fill with mineral wool?


I think is safer to use mineral wool/insulation to fill the whole stage (specially because is in a second floor) ...I think that if you make it really thight it will work fine :yes:


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

looks like I will need to go buy a couple more sheets of the mineral wool...

I also need to locate the small quantity of black carpet I will need for the stage.

kirby


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

kepople said:


> looks like I will need to go buy a couple more sheets of the mineral wool...
> 
> I also need to locate the small quantity of black carpet I will need for the stage.
> 
> kirby


I think R-13 maybe cheaper ($10 for 42 sqft), I bought some black carpet at Lowes ($3.40 linear ft) that might work, is an interior/exterior carpet :yes:


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

As promised heres some progress photos...

Prep Prep Prep and more Prep... worth it in the end. Even though I am still doing touch up (I suck at painting), there is less clean up due to better prep...


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Everybody OUT!


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Okay.. A weekend of painting sure makes a difference...

Some before and afters...

The colors of course dont look exactly as they show up here, but the darkest brown that Sherwin Williams makes in the Washable flat on the bottem, and custom mixed sand color on top, and a dark bronze for the ceiling... nearly black.

The washable flat is great stuff, but expensive at $43 a gallon. The ceiling is thier regular flat paint at $28 per. 2 coats everywhere, ceiling took two gallons. 

The trim is their blackest black in the washable semigloss.

I got a chance to break out my spray rig to spray the molding before putting in place... Had it for 3 years and never used it.
The molding is standard Home Depot stuff, but this was the first time I did a crown molding. I am pleased to say its easier than its made out to be as long as you are paying attention to what you are cutting. 
I need some black putty and a bigger nail punch to finish the molding up...

What do you guys think?

The panels will be khaki Burlap, framed with black frames, 6' long.

I am pleased to report it is now completley black in there when you turn the lights off...

Kirby


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## hjones4841 (Jan 21, 2009)

post deleted


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## hjones4841 (Jan 21, 2009)

Kirby: Congrats on the HW-10 projector. I bought myself one for Christmas and am very pleased. 

If you should want to darken the ceiling more (a big benefit for my room, which had a white ceiling when I got the HW-10) the folks over at AVS Forum recommend a Behr Mouse Ears black paint. It supposedly has low sheen and is a better light absorber than most blacks. I did not see those posts until I had already painted mine, which was some concoction that Home Depot put together using a Glidden flat base with a Behr color. It is OK, but I do get some reflections from the ceiling. Someday I will try the Mouse Ears.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

The paint looks great. Congrats. That 'completely black' makes a bigg difference in your movie experience.


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

I like how the room looks :yes:

We'll be waiting for more pictures :bigsmile:


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Well, got to screen wall tonight and installed the 1.5" Linacoustic... 
The remainder will be used for the Ceiling and possibly a couple more panels if the waf approves...

The last shot is with the washers painted black. Tomorrow I hope to build the frames that will go around the linacoustic, and be covered with the speaker fabric. I plan to hold these in place with industrial velcro as they will need to be removable for cleaning, and should I have to remove the screen.

Kirb


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## roffe (Feb 5, 2007)

Looking good. :T

I think Velcro is a good choice. I have used it a lot in my own, small HT room, and it works very well. It is hard to get the combination of serviceable panels and invisible fastening any other way.


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Well I finally got some more progress photos... Yep... I heard panels and this stuff was time consuming, but holy cow, its very time consuming!
I built the frames to but against each other out of 1x2's. 2 panels above the screen and 2 besides. I had to splice 1x2's together for the panels above and below as they are 111" long.
Got the usual comment from the Wife.. "wow honey, I did not know you could do all this..."

Pffft...

Anyway, lots of staples, and some of the rough velcro to hold in place so the kids dont pull them down. It wont really matter they fit so snugly over the insulation that they just really press fit.

Off to work on the column screens now...

Kirby


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

Everything is getting shape ...Nice work!!! :T


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## akakillroy (Jul 9, 2008)

:clap:


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Well the Columns are done! I had precut all the pieces before, and with my new found fabricing skills I expected it would only take an hour or so...
So 4 hours into it I was ready to install them... sheesh...

I used 1x2 Poplar for this for stability, and 2x2 pine cross pieces. Because I did not want a square column I used the 2x6 to form an angle and painted everything black before cutting. 
The inital plan was to screw through the front on the angled 2x2, but I found that with the 90 degree brackets and some glue on the back, the front screws were not needed. 
I decided to add the metal t's at the joints for ease and strength. So there is one screw through the poplar to hold it in place, and I squared it up and used the metal t's to square the whole panel. The L brackets were off set to get the drill in there when it came time to attach the other panel.

The whole panel is stronger and more stable than I thought which is good because its much heavier than I expected. 

They are just set in place at the moment awaiting the carpet and stage completion in which I will use Velcro to secure them. Again not needed except for kids do to the tight fit of all the panels. 
These things are impossible to take a decent photo of...

Next up... After the super bowl of course... the Stage!

Kirby


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## Space (Jul 18, 2007)

I gotta admit, I thought this was going to be a hack job, but you are doing a very good job indeed 

But tell me again what the little platform under the corner bass traps are doing?


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Space said:


> I gotta admit, I thought this was going to be a hack job, but you are doing a very good job indeed
> 
> But tell me again what the little platform under the corner bass traps are doing?


The platforms are for the stage. I built the platforms, filled with sand and insulation so that they will match the stage height. There is one shot with tape layed out on the floor for the final layout of what the stage will look like. It will be at the same height as the platforms, covered with black carpet. If you could see it in the photos, there is a gap between the top of the base trap screens and the ceiling which accoutns for the thickness of the carpet and pad. All will be attached permenantly when the carpet is layed. 

I also noted in one of the photos how bad my joint in my chair rail looks.... For the record, its up, but not finished. I have to counter sink some nails, and fill with black putty when I can find some, then I will do the touch up paint on the molding...

Kirby


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## davidsons (Jan 19, 2009)

Yes...Kirby is very talented. I'm surprised at how fast he's moving with this project considering all the other things he has going on in his life. 

Great work Kirby!

Steve


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## Space (Jul 18, 2007)

"and fill with black putty when I can find some, then I will do the touch up paint on the molding..."

Typical wood putty will work. It doesn't have to be black if you are painting it black anyway.


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

It's all coming together very nicely Kirby..

I like the idea of making the bass traps a front wall feature..Looks excellent..:T


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Back up and running for the Game... 

Next will be the stage starting tomorrow...

I am still in the market for a couple Black microsuede bean bags for the kids in front of the seating, and then the component rack...

Oh yeah, seating arrived. A couple people told me to get the motorized Berklines and dont look back. Took some convincing of the wife about the motorized, until she sat in it, and tried it out... "good choice"
These are the Berkline 13174 quick ships. they are very comfortable, and the lumbar support is nice. I will have to figure power later...

BTW: what are the 2 9volt battery connections for on the bottem of the chairs?

Posted a screen shot for fun...That should be a dang movie poster for Transfomers... and a shot of the Denon 2809Ci in all its HD audio glory. 

Kirby


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention. Already, the bass is less boomier. There is more detail in the tones to my ears anyway. I still need an EQ to help bring the higher pitched tones such as glass breaks and such up a little. But we will see how it all ends up when I install the rear panels and the diffusors, then determine what I need to adjust from there. 
In anycase, noticable improvement in bass boominess...

kirby


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## Space (Jul 18, 2007)

kepople said:


> I still need an EQ to help bring the higher pitched tones such as glass breaks and such up a little. But we will see how it all ends up when I install the rear panels and the diffusors,
> 
> kirby


Your lose of highs may be depending on speaker placement and component DSP selections.


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## Space (Jul 18, 2007)

Also, with18ft X 18ft dimensions absorbing panels at the mid section of the side walls would help reduce the poor sonic effect of a square shape.


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Those panels are coming up in a few days..next is the stage, then the rear panels or component rack if my lead does not work out on a server rack. 
but now that the game is over, I can get back to some destructive work... first though, I think I will give Hancock a look on bluray in there!

kirby


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Space said:


> Your lose of highs may be depending on speaker placement and component DSP selections.


I am not sure its the components, or the placement, but the room acoustics are not done yet.
k


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Construction of the stage frame.
I decided to build it in the garage so I can ensure its square and such.
I cut 2 2x's to 7' and sliced it 2/3 way through every 1"... ever seen a wiggly 2x?

I used a wood working trick here. 2x2's are square on only 2 sides, so I cut some blocks and screwed and glued the square corner to get the backs square. I cut others at 10 degrees to give me good support. I dont want to rely on screwing into the endgrain to keep these bent 2x4's attached. 

I cut different lengths to make the stage take a general curve that was a little deeper in the middle for better looks.

Then it was just a matter of clamping it up, and screwing all the screws in. I reinforced the joints with Poly urethane glue so that they dont pop loose.
After all this, I duplicated it on the other half of the stage.
Used a sawzall to cut off the excess length from the flexible 2x4, and planed all the cross pieces, so that the stage will sit level...

Heres the finished frame out...

Kirby


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## Space (Jul 18, 2007)

Nice work! It may be just as simple to use 1/2" plywood ripped 3-1/2" if you have anymore of these to do. Glued and screwed, it makes a clean radius and a smart piece of nailing area


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Carpet for the stage is proving to be difficult to find. I wanted to do all black for a couple reasons, not the least of which is not having enough of the room carpet left to roll the stage edge. 
I read that Lowes had black carpet in stock, so i did not give it any thought in planning. 

All Lowes and HD have is an outdoor black carpet thats really thin.

So Question:
If I use this thin outdoor carpet, can I use a pad since it does not have a mesh backing?

I wanted to use traditional carpet attachment of carpet strips and such, but this stuff seemes to need to be glued. 

Opinions?

kirby


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

kepople said:


> I wanted to use traditional carpet attachment of carpet strips and such, but this stuff seemes to need to be glued. Opinions? kirby


You can use this seam tape instead of gluing everything ...http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=89032-28375-11100022&lpage=none

The good thing is, if you want to remove the carpet it won't be to hard :yes:


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Installed...

Glued and screwed to the floor, filled with r19, and the ply glued and screwed to the frame. 

I set the pad and carpet cutout on there, and we watched the Imax Project Red Flag :Fighter Pilot. I did not hear any new resonances, so hopefully the deck is solid enough. 
I did not try any 2 channel biamped music yet, but I think the bass from the movie was enough to test for vibrations and echos from the stage.

If you are wondering about the gap in my "Square" stage halves... the stages are square, guess whats not... yep, the wall. Not a factor due to the carpet covering, but sure is aggrevating... It must be floated out in the sheet rock above because there is no bow in the screen wall itself, just the bottem of the sheet rock.

kirby


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## davidsons (Jan 19, 2009)

Time to roll out the red carpet....I mean black. 

Looking good Kirby!


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

:clap: . Good work :T


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Well, I found one place in town who had a black carpet in stock. Turned out to be Eggs-act-lee what I had in mind so, with the low labor cost, I am just going to have the carpet guy install it for me. They will be here tomorrow...

The photo shows the carpet I selected (the long strip) and the lowes carpet sample. 
FYI: the granite the carpet is sitting on is what I will use for the counter top in the back of the theater next to the component rack. The cabinet will have candy snacks, and popcorn if my wife has her way...

Kirby


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## splluver (Feb 3, 2009)

dude start your own side businees awesome work.


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Looking good Kirby..:T

Any particular reason for such a low profile stage.?


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

That counter is going to blend in perfectly. Nice choice.

That thicker blacker carpet will be nice.

Bryan


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Prof. said:


> Looking good Kirby..:T
> 
> Any particular reason for such a low profile stage.?



Thanks for the compliments guys...

Actually that photo is a little deceptive. The brown carpet is rolled up on the side making it look short. 
The platform is going to be about 5" inches off the floor when the carpet and pad are in place. The ply is 1" thick.

I could have gone another inch or so in hind sight.

Kirb


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

Marvelous work Kirby... :T


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Thanks Sonnie...

Wife and I spent the night away, and the babysitter and her brothers officially broke in the theater!
They watched 6 movies in there...Wholly cow... It met with thier approval already...

So not much time today but I did something useful. Logitec was kind enough to replace my failed Harmony 880 with a new one, so I spent the evening entering the equipment, and setting up activities. Theater is almost a one touch toy now! So now I dont have to worry when Jr runs off with one of the remotes. 
I think however, that once the rack is built, I will still have to install an IR repeater as the older DVD player that I use for DVD-audio discs and CD's does not see the remote reflection off the screen.

So Opinion time again...
The panels for the walls were going to be a khaki Burlap...I think its now going to be too light.
I am concidering covering them in the black speaker fabric since I cant find a dark brown burlap that matches.

Opinions?

Kirby


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

kepople said:


> The panels for the walls were going to be a khaki Burlap...I think its now going to be too light.
> I am concidering covering them in the black speaker fabric since I cant find a dark brown burlap that matches.
> 
> Opinions?
> ...


Did they already shipped them??? ...I think most companies have different burlap colors, if they did send them, ask if the can replace them or like you said, buy some fabric and cover them (I bought some speaker cloth at Joanns Fabrics) :yes:


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

I am building the panels myself, so no fabric has been purchased yet, other than samples. I can still get what ever you guys decide for me...

Kirby


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Carpets IN!

Thats the way to do a home theater... pay others to do the stuff you cant... I would not have been able to do this correctly, certainly not as fast. In and out in 1.5 hours... and an extra $20 for them to tack and stretch the carpet I cut...

Looks good, but you will never know it from the photos... You guys will just have to come see for yourself...

Anyway, heres some grainy snaps I boosted in Photoshop to at least be able to see the outline of the carpet.

Kirby


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

kepople said:


> I am building the panels myself, so no fabric has been purchased yet, other than samples. I can still get what ever you guys decide for me...
> 
> Kirby


My suggestion ...contact Bryan (bpape), I'm sure he can help you.


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

I have some samples from him, so I will go through them again...

thanks
kirby


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Very nice.

If you want some chocolate fabric appropriate for panels, let me know. We offer a coffee color as one of our standard fabrics. I can probably get it for you if you want some. Only restriction would be at least 8 yards. Not sure what shipping would be.

Bryan


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Bryan;
Which fabric is the brown? 
Is it like guilford or microsuede?

Kirby
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Look at the standard colors and look for Coffee. It's not Guilford. It's not suede. It's halfway between muslin and canvas

Bryan


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

I guess I dont have a Coffee colored sample, I thought I did.
GOM fabric is all too light and if I were to use black, I might as well use the Speaker fabric.

kirby


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Try this









Last color on the right. If your monitor is properly calibrated, it's pretty close.

Bryan


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

An update...

1) been working on the acoustic panels which took some research on construction, placement, and then some testing. The result is noticably different.

These are not complete but they are placed at the 1st reflection points for both mains for the two main seats...
Immediately, the sound was noticeably crisper, the highs came back, and the bass evened out. Or at least thats the preception I got from listening to some pink floyd and a couple blurays...

2) The rack: a friend aquired me a nice server rack, and another friend was kind enough to annodize it black for me. Its not exactly what I originally had in mind, which was the traditionaly metal faced rack with only the component faces showing. So the plan now is to enclose it like a cabinet with a glass front door. At the moment I put it at an angle just because it looked a little nicer. Since the component rack is never finished, I have debated about shortening it, and putting bass trap above it.

Opinions?

In anycase, I was able to get rid of the folding table...yippee... wife loves me for that. I need to find some more shelves for the other equipment... UPS, Apple TV, PS3, etc...

Next up I will post some photos of the panel construction, and the framing of the existing frames. They will have a semi gloss black frame around them when they get hung on the wall.

Heres a couple snappers... Oh yeah, I got my cool toy signs... so I threw them up temporarily.

Kirby


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Looking good..:T
Are the panels just standing on the floor, or are they attached to the wall in some way?


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Looking good. Something thick on the middle of the rear wall will bring it up even more by minimizing bass anomolies off the rear wall.

Bryan


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Prof. said:


> Looking good..:T
> Are the panels just standing on the floor, or are they attached to the wall in some way?


They are sitting on the floor at the moment. That is there X location on the wall, those are the reflecting points that you guys helped me find in my other thread. First panel gets the two seats for one side, the second panel gets the two seats for the opposing speaker. The Y will be done soon after I build the frames that go around them. I will build the hanging bracket into the frame. The panels are obviously self supporting, and the frame is really for cosmetics.

Thanks to Bryan for pointing out the second reflecting point for each seat.

kirby


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

bpape said:


> Looking good. Something thick on the middle of the rear wall will bring it up even more by minimizing bass anomolies off the rear wall.
> 
> Bryan


The rear panels are next. There will be 3 as per the photograph 4" thick, 2'x6'.
See the photo for locations...

The one on the left will be 6' for now as I think the rear cabinet design is evolving into a bar directly behind the seats to give casual seating, and a place to put the 10' submarine sandwich... :yes:

Kirby


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

An update:
the room was auditioned family members this weekend, one of which has a 25K theater. Even though its not finished yet, everyone was pleased and I was surprised how much the people could hear from thier comments. In particular the detail in the audio.

FYI: an impressive audio demo is the phantom of the opera CD. It is full of details that I did not even notice listening through head phones.
Kirby


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Its been a while so time for an update...
I have been working on panels when I am not looking for a job. (yep, got whacked in a layoff)

This are a combination of others techniques. Applying the JM815 to a frame, then covering. I will be adding a cosmetic frame around the outside before hanging them. The frame will incorporate the hanging mechanism.

These are covered with Speaker fabric from Joanne. Join thier mailing list and you will get a 40% off coupon which you can use to buy the fabric at about $6 per yard. 
The 2" panels you can get 2 side byside, but not the 4" so I have a bunch of skinny strips left over.

These panels are 2'x6'x2 or 4" thick. They are obviously self supporting, but the frame may add strength. 
However, I have toyed with the idea of using a piece of angle trim on the front, and back, and nothing in between to help reduce the adverse effects of a wooden frame.

Placement is making a HUGE difference in sound quality. Since i added each individually, I was able to hear the difference each made. The side panels were the biggest improvement, but the overall clarity in the room has gone through the roof. 

Well worth the effort.

Opinions always welcome..


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

I have also started on some details..
directional lighting on the front wall for the moment
and lutron spacer lighting dimmers. so i now have 4 scenes of lighting which will be tied into activities as soon as I figure how to program macros on my 880, and get an IR repeater...

Oh one bummer on the Lutron. I was told I dont need the Lutron remote, but since the 880 only emits a short pulse, to set the scenes I guess you do need it. I tried to capture the code into another universal remote, but it recorded the pulse as well, so it wont emit a constant stream of the code. 

Any ideas without having to spend $70 on the lutron remote as to how to get the code to emit from the 880 for 4 seconds?

I wondered if a really cheap universal remote would do it, but thats an expirement that costs money...

kirby


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## rcarlton (Apr 29, 2006)

Wow. Terrific thread. Good luck with the job search!


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Can you just program a macro with the burst repeating for 4 seconds?

Bryan


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Well, I am afraid that did not work... Not sure why it would not emit the pulse until the button is released, thats kinda silly on harmony's part.

kirby


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

kepople said:


> Placement is making a HUGE difference in sound quality. Since i added each individually, I was able to hear the difference each made. The side panels were the biggest improvement, but the overall clarity in the room has gone through the roof.


Is that glue in that brown bottle!!?.:bigsmile:

Sorry to hear of your job loss..I guess there will be a few more here in the same situation..
It's good to hear that you've been able to improve the clarity of sound with the new panels..:T
One of the improvements I noticed with my panels, was better clarity with voices in the lower register, which previously had sounded muffled..


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## hjones4841 (Jan 21, 2009)

kepople said:


> Any ideas without having to spend $70 on the lutron remote as to how to get the code to emit from the 880 for 4 seconds?
> 
> I wondered if a really cheap universal remote would do it, but thats an expirement that costs money...
> 
> kirby


Have you asked the folks at remotecentral.com? They may have a solution for you in one of their forums.


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

I GOT IT!!!!
You can do it with the Harmony... And I figured it out... quite by accident...

After setting up another activity to program scenes, I set up a sequence as Bryan suggested for multiple button presses... The trouble, there was a 100ms pause between pulses, so it was not continuous...
I set that to 0, and Viola!!! 4 presses of the macro, and the locks in the programming...

I now have all 4 scenes programmed. 
1) Entry: Screen Full, Sconces 60%, overhead just glowing for now.
2) Audio listening: Screen 70%, Sconces 30%, overhead just a glow
3) Watching TV with the Kids and Bluray Pause: Screen off, Sconces at 20%, overhead off
4) Glowing: All lamps, just glowing...Looks pretty cool actually

then of course you can send the default commands of all on or all off as well. 
So I programmed another macro so that when I hit play on the Bluray, the lights dim then off.

Wish I had one more scene, but oh well... The lighting cost $150 for the whole thing...

Kirby


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Good to hear you got it working.

Sorry to hear about the job. Hang in there. 

Bryan


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Time for Frames and permenant mounting of the panels to the wall. 
This is the 3rd reengineering plan for these things. 
Started with 1x finish grade pine and birch. Impossible to find straight wood these days in dimensional lumber, but in the end I found enough to do the job.

I glued and tacked the corners with my finish nailer, then used L brackets on the bottem and the 3 angle brackets on the top so that I could mount the frames to the wall. the intent is to be able to remove the panels from the frames as needed as they will cover a couple outlets.

I used Kilz to prime them and sprayed the frames with the same Sherwin Williams washable black I used for the rest of the molding. 

When I mounted the rear frames to the wall of course you see how bad your walls are... uch... 
When I test fit the panels in the frames, I did not like them being flush to the front of the frame. I plane some 3/4" wood to 5/8 and attached the cleats to the frame, this is also where i will attach the industrial velcro that will hold the panels in the frames. they are a snug fit anyway, but just in case. One other bonus of the cleats is that it created 3/4 or more gap between the back of the panel and the wall.

Wife did not realize the rear panels would stick out from the wall so much, but she is getting used to it... Too bad, thats what needs to be there. 

Once the frames were installed, I removed and trimmed the chair rail, and reattached with 2" nailer... 

Next I will touch up paint, and give a final balance before taking a break from theater construction for a while to enjoy it.

Kirby


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Here are the completed shots (sans touch up paint)...

The sound difference with and without is amazing. I had music playing while I was installing them, and man it was terrible without them. I guess I am spoiled by the clarity difference now...

Kirby


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Nice job. Glad you like the results. Definitely kick back and enjoy it for a while.

Bryan


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## swithey (Dec 15, 2006)

Great job on the room. You should be very proud of yourself. The panels turned out great. I think it took me 3 different designs to get mine the way I wanted them. I completely understand about finding straight dimensional lumber. I always get "the look" at Lowes when I'm going through the #1 lumber. This last batch for my bar cabinet doors required me to go to (3) different stores to find (9) straight pieces.- Geez! A few of the pieces are marginal, but I think they will pass.

Ahh - the wife has to get used to the deep rear panels? Don't worry about it, she will. Once you educate her (as I did my wife), she will understand how much of a difference they really make. Hey, they're in the back anyway, so who cares 

Your upper color looks very similar to the SW paint we have around our house. It is called Restrained Gold. Good combo of colors.

BTW -- where is your sub or subs? Do I feel an Infinite Baffle sub on the list :bigsmile: ? I love mine.


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Sub is in the back by the components. That turned out to be a good sounding place, although the volume had to be turned down a little in the setup.

One day I will probably get another, some butt Kickers or an infinite baffle who knows...

Thanks for the compliments...i enjoyed the build...something new I have not done before...

Kirb


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Very nice job on the frames Kirby..and very solidly constructed..:T
What thickness insulation did you finish up using in them.?


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Insulation:
Side panels 2" JM 815 spaced from the wall 3/4"-1"
Rear panels 4" JM 815 spaced 1" from the wall
Screen wall 1.5" Linacoustic solid over the whole wall

Screen wall, and panels are all covered with Speaker matierial from Joann Fabric. (love that stuff)

What remains acoustically that I want to do:
2-3 layer 2" thick ceiling reflector.
1' Diffusion panels below the side panels.
Diffusion below the surround speakers.

Thanks for all the feed back guys
Kirby


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

It all sounds good..and I guess it does to you..literally..


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Okay, just watched the Day the Earth Stood still...
While I am not going to do a review I will just say that at the climax, DTS-HD Master audio...

Jaw DROPPING!!! 

I think DTS just sounds head and shoulders above Dolby so I am not sure why more companies dont use it.

Anyway, family friendly, classic remake, and Awesome sound!
kirby


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

kepople said:


> Okay, just watched the Day the Earth Stood still...
> While I am not going to do a review I will just say that at the climax, DTS-HD Master audio...
> 
> Jaw DROPPING!!!


This one I'm really looking forward to seeing.. 



> I think DTS just sounds head and shoulders above Dolby so I am not sure why more companies dont use it.


I totally agree...Everything I buy or rent these days is almost totally Dolby..
It is getting generally a bit more dynamic, but still not as good as DTS..


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