# Tinning the ends of speaker wire, good or bad



## tonyvdb

So without getting into really deep discussion, is tinning (soldering) the ends of the speaker wires a good or a bad thing? My EVs don't have the normal binding posts (just a nut type thread on) so to keep the strands from separating under the pressure I have soldered the 12awg copper together and then bent it into a U shape. 
My other options is to go through the trouble of replacing the binding posts or getting some crimp on U connectors. 

Thoughts?


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## BD55

Not being an EE I probably can't say much, but I don't see the harm in using solder to keep the ends from fraying. It's used in all sorts of high current connections all the time, so I don't see how this application is any different.


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## tonyvdb

Ya, that's kind of my thoughts. It's just with all the lovely "gold plated" connectors out there you begin to wonder if there is some loss. My thoughts are it's more snake oil but it's a good discussion none the less.


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## BD55

Hey, I don't doubt that there is more going on that a lot of what we understand, but my take on it is that in order to have that understanding or discernment you'd have to dump some serious serious money into _all_ components in the chain.... and for me, I ain't gonna do that because I wouldn't appreciate the cost tradeoff.


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## Prof.

Tony there's no problem tinning the wires, providing you use a solder with a high silver content..60 /40 at least..


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## tonyvdb

Ok just looked at the solder I used its 60/40:T


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## chashint

Soldering the ends of the wires will not hurt anything electrically or sonically.
Standard electronics grade solder is fine Sn63/Pb37 or Sn60/Pb40 was the industry standard solders until the push for ROHS compliance.
When the resistance of solder is measured in micro ohms there is no real world electrical difference between "silver" solder and tin/lead solder however the flux required for "silver" solder is much more aggressive than the resin fluxes for the tin/lead alloys. So if the acid flux wicks up the copper strands and gets under the insulation it can corrode the copper wire fairly quickly.


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## RBTO

As mentioned, tinning the ends will certainly help to keep the ends from fraying, but in your case where you're wrapping them around binding posts, it can decrease the surface area that contacts the post. Ordinarily, the flat surface of the post and the threaded compression knob crush the wire so it spreads over the flat portion and contacts at many points. When tinned, the tinned wire is stiffer and cannot conform to the flat contact as well so it doesn't have as great a contact area. Also, it can undergo metal fatiguing similar to an aluminum conductor which, over time, will loosen the connection.

That being said, the difference is probably negligible in a typical case.

A better solution for you is to visit an automotive or hardware store and look for solid copper terminations (Noble out of Springfield, OR. makes these). These are available as spade lugs, and ring terminals with different hole diameters. Choose some that will fit the stud size of your binding posts. I would recommend that you solder these onto the ends of your wires which makes for a good electrical connection and keeps the ends neat. If you really want to fancy these up, you can obtain some silver or tin plating compound and plate the terminals after they are soldered to your wire ends to get a bright finish, but the latter is quite unnecessary. The flat copper surfaces of the lugs make better contact with the binding post and lower the resistance of the connection over what a looped, tinned wire would have. They are also more secure and are easier to install and remove from your binding posts.


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## tonyvdb

RBTO said:


> A better solution for you is to visit an automotive or hardware store and look for solid copper terminations (Noble out of Springfield, OR. makes these). These are available as spade lugs, and ring terminals with different hole diameters. Choose some that will fit the stud size of your binding posts. I would recommend that you solder these onto the ends of your wires which makes for a good electrical connection and keeps the ends neat. If you really want to fancy these up, you can obtain some silver or tin plating compound and plate the terminals after they are soldered to your wire ends to get a bright finish, but the latter is quite unnecessary. The flat copper surfaces of the lugs make better contact with the binding post and lower the resistance of the connection over what a looped, tinned wire would have. They are also more secure and are easier to install and remove from your binding posts.


I thought about this route, the next time I go someplace that may have them I will pick some up just because I can.


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Bob has a point about the crush area of the connection, although I doubt it makes an audible difference. Still, what you could do is strip back the insulation on the wire a bit longer than you usually would, and then tin only the tip. That will keep all the strands together, and still give you bare copper for the connection. Naturally, the end of the wire would stick out of the binding post hole a bit further than normal.

That said, the connections on your EV speakers are best handled with crimped-on spade lugs as Bob recommended. Bending the wire around the threaded stud is shall we say, poor form.  Just make sure (as Bob also mentioned) that you get the correct size lug, for a #6, #8 or #10 stud. Best as I can tell from pictures I’ve seen on line, it looks like a #6 stud, or maybe #8.

Regards, 
Wayne


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## flamingeye

sometimes I think people over think things I'v used bar wire on my speakers for decades and never once had a problem I even tinned once and never had a problem there ether , I think as long as your careful with your instillation you should have no problems I also think once you connect your speakers it's a good idea after a month to re-check the connections and snug them down then every year check to make sure there is no oxidation going on and clean and re-connect if need-be. I usually clean all my connections once a year on my system if it needs it or not but that's me


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

For the record, this is what the back of Tony’s speakers look like.

Regards, 
Wayne


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## Glen B

tonyvdb said:


> Ya, that's kind of my thoughts. It's just with all the lovely "gold plated" connectors out there you begin to wonder if there is some loss. My thoughts are it's more snake oil but it's a good discussion none the less.


Of course there is some loss, as gold is not as good a conductor as bare copper, but it is still a better longterm alternative to tarnished or corroded copper.


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