# SDX 15" 5.5 cuft tuned to 22 hz



## cybernation

Hey guys,

I ordered all my equipment, so i'm getting ready to build the box.

What are the differences between slot ports and pvc ports? if both are the same, which one is easier to install?

Also, the dimensions of my box are going to be 17wx36hx20.5d. Where should i place the woofer in the cabinet? or does it matter? Up high down low middle..

Thanks


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## Mike P.

Two 4" round ports would take up less room compared to a slot port. Woofer placement will depend on where the port is going to be.


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## cybernation

I'm thinking at the bottom of the baffle.. Woofer up high. 2x 4" pvc pipes, with 90 degree elbows to get 23" long ports. Yay or nay? 


Thanks once again Mike


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## Mike P.

Yay. I used $4 PVC 90 degree elbows on one of my builds. You'll have to support the elbow between the bottom of the elbow and the cabinet.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...rojects/8554-mach-5-audio-ixl-18-4-build.html


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## cybernation

Hey guys, so i'm almost %50 finished. 

I have a couple of questions, i didn't install t-nuts for the woofer. Can i just use screws or should find some t-nuts? 

I cut the baffle too small, the woofer fits in but it is not flush with the sub-baffle. Is there any way to trim it down?

I was thinking of sanding it down to size, it's actually 2 small parts of the opening.. I also thought of using a dremmel.

Is it imperative that the woofer is flush with the sub-baffle? I feel a little air coming out from the woofer. I did not use the foam that was included with the woofer..I find it's too firm and i don't think it will let the woofer sit properly. Maybe the t-nuts will bring it down????? Should i not install the foam since the box is ported?

I also hooked up the woofer in series, which presents a 6ohm load. The behringer ep2500 will go down to 2 ohm or 4 ohm... should I leave it in series or wire it in parallel? 

If there are leaks in the box, how will that affect performance? I'm not talking about huge holes in the box, just around the woofer?

Thanks guys. I have pictures, but they are at the shop.. will post when i'm finished.


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## gxstress

Hey Cybernation, 

I'll try to answer some of your questions. 

1. I do recommend the use T-Nuts. But if you have to use some screws, use some wood screws with the Robertson head(square head). 

2. If the baffle is more than 1/2" too small you can probably use a jigsaw to cut most of the excess off and then follow up with some sanding/dremel 

3. The foam included with your sub is to ensure a proper seal between the sub and the enclosure. Even under the weight of the driver alone, the foam should compress considerably and screwing the sub into the box will further compress the foam giving you an excellent seal:T 

4. Each coil on the sdx15 is around 2ohms. Wiring in series should present your ep2500 with a 4ohm load. 

5. Any leaks in the enclosure will hinder performance, especially around the woofer. Hope that helps. 

Good luck 

-Gerard


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## Binary

I've got the SDX 15, Its 50 odd pounds, I think something a little heavier than some good wood screws would be a nice factor, especially if you wanna tighten it down, that much force on those little tiny screws is bad news bears.


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## ironglen

Binary said:


> I've got the SDX 15, Its 50 odd pounds, I think something a little heavier than some good wood screws would be a nice factor, especially if you wanna tighten it down, that much force on those little tiny screws is bad news bears.


The use of allen or square drive headed screws is probably better for a number of reasons, but I spend the extra cash because I don't want to drive a philips screwdriver through a cone by accident.

Lots of people on parts express rave about hurricane nuts vs t-nuts. I've yet to use them though.


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## Mike P.

Post some pics of the build. :T


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## cybernation

Here's some pics


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## cybernation

I have to scrape off the silicon around the ports... it just didn't work.. stuff is too old or something. Do you guys think I need more bracing? I used 3/4" plywood.. I was supposed to be void free, but i found some voids 

I just purchased some t-nuts, so i will be installing that soon.

I actually cut my sub-baffle a little too small for the woofer. So i just tacked on 1 hour worth of sanding.

I'll be putting more silicon or some type of glue along the cracks to seal. 

Do the ports look ok on the baffle? i know they aren't the best, but it's my first time with ports.


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## ironglen

You're working fast!

Just a quick look; I'd recommend another brace that supports the sides adjacent to the driver along with the back panel directly behind the driver, perhaps a U-shaped panel.

Silicone can be messy stuff, hope that works out for you.

Looks like you put a nice flare on the outside-good job. If you've got a router, you might use it on driver baffle opening prior to sanding, to take a bit more material off, plus it will evenly remove material and you can do the rest by sanding.


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## bjs

ironglen said:


> The use of allen or square drive headed screws is probably better for a number of reasons, but I spend the extra cash because I don't want to drive a philips screwdriver through a cone by accident.
> 
> Lots of people on parts express rave about hurricane nuts vs t-nuts. I've yet to use them though.



I use wood screws. Well, actually left over drywall screws.

Works perfectly fine.


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## Mike P.

It looks like the silicone was old and separated. Hopefully it won't be to hard to clean off.


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## cybernation

update:

I mounted the woofer to the box, hooked it up voice coils in series, started to crank it.. WHERE'S THE LOUD BASS???!! ahhh:hissyfit: I had it bridged to the ep2500.
I tried 1 channel still the same woofer is not moving much not as loud as bridged.
Should I hook up the woofer's voice coils in parellel? When I start to increase the volume the clip lights start blinking. 

I haven't added extra support to the box yet, and i haven't finished the outside box. I wanted to try it out first.

Here are some pics... It's the top sub, bottom one is my old 12" tc sounds 1000

































Had both woofers going, but not loud... my daughter was sleeping by the time i hooked it up again.


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## cybernation

i am picking up a bfd 1124p tomorrow.. maybe that will help out?

Maybe my signal is too weak from my denon avr?


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## Mike P.

Check the dip switches on the amp to make sure you don't have the 30 hz Hi-Pass filter engaged.


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## cybernation

I have input 1 clip limiter on
low cut filter 50 hz on
low cut filter on
bridge mode on
same on input 2.. 

if you know the dip switches: 1,6,7,10 are ON. The rest are off.


I just read the back of the unit, and 10 should be off, which is the clip limiter.. I don't think that would cut the power?


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## cybernation




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## cybernation

low cut filter is enabled maybe that's my issue?


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## cybernation

that's what the problem was... now it's pounding yay!

:yikes::hsd:


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## Binary

Well, how does it compare to the 12" TC 1000?


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## cybernation

to be honest.. there is no comparison to the tc 1000... blows it out of the water. 

I was watching batman dark knight and the first bass note feels like a mini earthquake. 

I do have to figure out how to work the bfd.. when the guys in batman fire the wire to break the glass it clips the amp.

I was listening to timbaland shock value 2 this morning, and my house lost power. I dunno if it was from me cranking it or if my elect company had a blip... lol

I will be buying another sdx 15 for the same room eventually.

Thanks to mike for recommending the woofer, modelling the box, and thanks to css.


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## fackamato

Just a fyi; if you're running the EP2500 bridged, you need to set the 2nd channel gain to 0, I saw in the picture that you had both channels on full gain.


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## Veltinorian

great muscle sub :hsd::T
what is the tune freq on the tc 1000 sub or volume if you may know it?


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## Binary

> I was listening to timbaland shock value 2 this morning, and my house lost power. I dunno if it was from me cranking it or if my elect company had a blip... lol


The Behringer EP2500 can draw 18 amps from a wall socket if the breaker its connected to can supply it. You prolly tripped the breaker as i do regularly with my QSC RMX2450 (basically the version yours is a clone of.) You'd need at least 2 dedicated 20 amp circuits for the HT to run it properly without any power issues. That is of course at full tilt. You may notice the little LED on the front of the amp to start to dim at high volumes, its a pretty good indicator that the wall is outta juice and youre gonna trip the breaker soon. lol. typical 15 amp circuits are only good for 1800 watts at a perfect 120v. expect 1650-1750 reasonably. see the problem?


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## cybernation

fackamato said:


> Just a fyi; if you're running the EP2500 bridged, you need to set the 2nd channel gain to 0, I saw in the picture that you had both channels on full gain.


Hi, yes i figured that out in the end..


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## cybernation

Binary said:


> The Behringer EP2500 can draw 18 amps from a wall socket if the breaker its connected to can supply it. You prolly tripped the breaker as i do regularly with my QSC RMX2450 (basically the version yours is a clone of.) You'd need at least 2 dedicated 20 amp circuits for the HT to run it properly without any power issues. That is of course at full tilt. You may notice the little LED on the front of the amp to start to dim at high volumes, its a pretty good indicator that the wall is outta juice and youre gonna trip the breaker soon. lol. typical 15 amp circuits are only good for 1800 watts at a perfect 120v. expect 1650-1750 reasonably. see the problem?


The power company had a blip...


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## cybernation

Ok so i fired up rew, and took a measurement, which i swear i'm doing something wrong... take a look:
















why does it look like it decreases in SPL rather than increase? ... I'm sure i put a wrong value in for something... it starts off at over 120 spl


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