# looking for advice



## THOMASWMAZ (Jan 11, 2011)

Thomaswmaz Home theater in progress!

TV:
Samsung PN63C8000 63" PDP (m plasma display) full 1080P 3D / full 1080P 2D

Processor:
Integra DTC 9.8


Amplifiers:
Parasound THX ULTRA2 5250, 5 x 250watts - powers center, outdoor and rear surround speakers
Parasound THX ULTRA2 2250, 2x250watts - powers main speakers left and right channels

Diretv:
HR23 / HR21 in master bedroom
whole home DVR connects via the home network
Media share enabled and I can pull music off a network hard drive to the 
Integra processor to play oustside or inthe main room / also the HR 21 in the 
masterbedroom and it also has media share enabled and I can pull musice of network hard drive
simultaneously in the masterbedroom

DVD:
Panasonic DMP BD-80 Blu Ray player

Samsung 3D BDC-5900 PLAYER, soon to be replaced it plays 3D movies really well but not so good
at playing Blu-Rays the panny is incredible!

Power:
Richard Gray Power Center 600
4 dedicated 20 amp outlets located below the Richard Gray, these were installed by an electrician 

Control:
Universal remote (URC) MX-980
KP-900 for patio speakers
MRf-350

Game system - Wii, still needs to be hooked up better, but in my defense it was a Christmas gift

Speakers:
Center Channel - DefinitiveTechnology CLR 3000
Main let and right - Definitive Technology BP7000SC
Subwoofer - Definitive Technology Reference Super Cube
Rear Surround speakers - Definitive Technology UIW 83/A

Outdoor patio speakers - Niles OS 7.5

Looking to add:
another Parasound 2250 so I can bi-amp and Bi-wire the left and right mains
add a new remote mx-5000 or a m-3000
add another Richard Gray Power Center


----------



## GranteedEV (Aug 8, 2010)

Regarding the Blu Ray, are you looking into the Oppo BDP-93?



> another Parasound 2250 so I can bi-amp and Bi-wire the left and right mains


Bi wiring does not do anything. Passive Bi-Amping does very little if anything as well... and certainly nothing for a "powered" main! This is an act in redundancy grasping at straws to get performance that doesn't exist that you want to believe does. 



> add another Richard Gray Power Center


To what ends do you wish to do this? 

Anyways it sounds like you want to upgrade but instead you're spending your money on things that won't give you much improvemnent. 

My recommendation would of course be to look into better speakers before you drop big money on what maqy not even give you any performance boost. I'd begin with a better sub, and make it two of em...

Something like a SVS or Funkywaves or Seaton Submersives perhaps?

You may also want more power. Power conditioners etc won't really do much if anything to this end, although a good UPS might be a good decision depending on where you live... look into Tripp Lite stuff.

What you REALLY probably want is to wire the house with a 20A circuit or two complete with breaker.


----------



## Jungle Jack (Jul 28, 2009)

Hello,
That is a very nice HT you have coming together. I love Parasound and have been using them for over a decade.
I owned a New Classic 2250 for about a year when a good friend was complaining about the Aragon 8008bb I picked up for him "ran too hot" and offered to trade me straight up. As I had owned multiple 8008's over the years, I just could not say no. That being said, the New Classics are really nice and offer plenty of power.

It might be fun to bridge a 2250 for each BP7000. I bridged my 2250 to drive my Center Channel when I owned it and it really was awesome. It gives you 700 Watts bridged.
Cheers,
JJ


----------



## THOMASWMAZ (Jan 11, 2011)

:coocoo:Bi wiring does not do anything. Passive Bi-Amping does very little if anything as well... and certainly nothing for a "powered" main! This is an act in redundancy grasping at straws to get performance that doesn't exist that you want to believe does. 

====
So what you are saying is that if I have 2 2-channel amplifiers, one for each tower use 1ch for the highs and one channel for the lows, this is your defintion of PASSIVE bi-amping? 

Grasping at straws, wow you got some cohones! Its interesting that some people are just acoustically challenged as so they are unable to hear a clear difference in improved acoustical enhancements, in regards to Bi-wiring and Bi-amping. What are you referencing about "powered mains"? 
I have had 4-20amp circuits installed already. Trying reading about richard grays this may open your eyes and you wont use ups and esp not tripp lite what a hunk of junk! 
research equipment you dont know about, before you chime in!


----------



## Jungle Jack (Jul 28, 2009)

Hello,
I would still consider running a 2250 Bridged for each BP7000. Again, when I did so on my Center Channel, the results were amazing. Having 700 Watts going to each Speaker will make listening to Music something else.
Cheers,
JJ


----------



## GranteedEV (Aug 8, 2010)

THOMASWMAZ said:


> So what you are saying is that if I have 2 2-channel amplifiers, one for each tower use 1ch for the highs and one channel for the lows, this is your defintion of PASSIVE bi-amping?


Unless you've got an active crossover IE DEQX HDP-3 and you've removed the crossover inside your speaker and made a direct connection from amp to driver with nothing in between, you're passively bi amping, which only helps if your speakers present too wild a load for a single amp channel to handle, and made usless moreso by the fact that your mains have a "powered subwoofer section" which already reduces the strain in the bass region.



> so they are unable to hear a clear difference in improved acoustical enhancements, in regards to Bi-wiring and Bi-amping. What are you referencing about "powered mains"?


Bi-Amping is great - for an active loudspeaker. Passive Bi-Amping is a waste of energy and money unless your amplifiers are already very poor which the parasounds should not be. You basically split a signal into two, send one to a crossover which filters the already amplified signal to the highs and another to the crossover which sends the already amplified signal to the lows. Key word "already amplified". This means we're already dealing in the voltages and currents associated with driving a loudspeaker, and thus both amps must still deal with all the issues these crossover sections present to it and both amps will amplify a full range signal only to have it attenuated afterwards. The only way to bi amp properly is before the signal reaches the amplifier, which in turn means you need an active crossover in place, which is akin to completely redesigning your speaker... you either need measurement tools, or an already design active crossover. An active crossover is not the same as a passive crossover.

Bi Wiring? It's total snake oil and literally does nothing except present a theoretical lower guage. It's no different from simply using a lower gauge except you just paid for more wire. For any home theater install 14awg copper wire is all a person needs unless they've got a long in-wall run going.

Regarding bridging, it's only recommended if the load presented by the loudspeaker is acceptable to the amplifier in its bridged state, and can quickly destroy an amp otherwise. With that said a bridged amp is a much better solution than passive bi-amping.



> Trying reading about richard grays this may open your eyes and you wont use ups and esp not tripp lite what a hunk of junk!


Okay, since you've read about it and own it, feel free to explain to me what it does so spectacularily that a tripp lite will not. Is it a variac? Can it give you a continuous 50a ? Just what does it measurably do that makes it so special? Outside of "cleans the power..." something that conflicts with the concept of any given power supply in any electronic.



> research equipment you dont know about, before you chime in!


I know perfectly well about equipment that does nothing to the final result. I'm trying to help you on how electronics and speakers actually work, yet you're getting very angry for some reason.


----------



## THOMASWMAZ (Jan 11, 2011)

I have been an aficiando of home theater since before dvds were around, I have worked for a high end custom home theater company who has had their foot in this business since the 1960's. Not only a top sales person but also regarded as the most knowledgeable about building systems. I will conceded that our systems average was 20-35k not hi-fi but mid-fi. i hear what you say about bi-wiring, I get it some things are snake oil I dont agree about 14awg wiring being enough to power a more powerful system maybe the bakcyard hillbilly HTIB is over kill with 14awg.... why would i want to bypass the crossovers in my 5,550.00 towers? Those are designed for that speaker, If I had Wilsons would I bypass their crossover and use an eq? I never even heard of using an actived ewq in mid- hi-fi systems. I am curious as to your system and what equipment you have, a picture says more than words...


----------



## Jungle Jack (Jul 28, 2009)

Hello,
Parasound is rated at 700 Watts into 8 and 4 Ohms and had no problems when driving an Electrostatic Center Channel that dips below 4 ohms.
JJ


----------



## THOMASWMAZ (Jan 11, 2011)

what device can give you a continous 50a output? 

I am not angry, If I can learn something I didnt know, I am happy and intrigued! You will know when Im angry!!!!


----------



## Jungle Jack (Jul 28, 2009)

Hello,
I do believe in healthy debate and discussion of ones choices in AV gear. However, we strive here to be civil and respectful even when there might be divergent viewpoints on particular equipment. I do not want this Thread to go off the rails and need to be locked and I do not like the direction we are going.

Please keep this in mind as this Thread continues. Grant, while you are quite knowledgeable about all things HT, please understand that being respectful of others choices is quite important as well. Even if they run counter to what you might believe.
JJ


----------



## GranteedEV (Aug 8, 2010)

THOMASWMAZ said:


> i hear what you say about bi-wiring, I get it some things are snake oil I dont agree about 14awg wiring being enough to power a more powerful system maybe the bakcyard hillbilly HTIB is over kill with 14awg....


14 awg is perfect for 15a of current into 120V, which is 1800 watts of power! In terms of loudspeakers, this equates to 1800 W into an 8 ohm load. In a home theater I doubt you will ever use that kind of extreme power for your mains... this is professional audio territory and sound pressure levels. If you've got a passive subwoofer you may find yourself reaching that territory, in which case a step up to some cheap 12 awg is a worthwhile venture. 



> why would i want to bypass the crossovers in my 5,550.00 towers?


You really would not unless you REALLY knew what you were doing with regards to speaker design and had the resources necessary to pull it off. This is why I was telling you that bi-amping is not likely a worthwhile venture! Passive Bi-Amping would not net you many, if any, gains.

With that said, if your speakers have not been designed optimally, you could of course try your hand at "redesigning" the crossovers, but I don't consider it worth while.

A good resource for you to read however would be this one:
http://sound.westhost.com/biamp-vs-passive.htm



> If I had Wilsons would I bypass their crossover and use an eq?


only if you had the resources and knowledge to do so, but then you would be way better off getting a woodworker to build you an approriate cabinet, purchasing the exact same OEM drivers wilson uses, and having the DEQX cross those over instead... all for about a tenth of the cost. 

FWIW, a user at another forum recently considered tearing apart the crossover in his B&W Nautilus 801s and going active.



> I never even heard of using an actived ewq in mid- hi-fi systems.


That is because people are under an impression (which I won't comment on as it may strike a nerve) that amplifiers make a difference in sound quality even if both are appropriate for a given loudspeaker electrical load. Therefore they do not WANT an amplifier built into their Hi Fi speaker, and thus will not BUY it. Would you rather buy a $5000 passive speaker, or the "same" $7000 actively tri-amped speaker? Sure the latter will come with amplification, but you'd rather buy whatever amp brand you think sounds the most chocolaty, most sweet, most lively, etc. After all, that's what people read in the magazines!

Don't get me wrong though, if you're interested, a few excellent commercial systems which DO have active crossovers include

Seaton Catalyst
Wood Artistry Orion++
ATC SCM300 AT
PMC BB5 XBD-A
NHT XD

And Salk Sound also allows, at special request, for an active version of their excellent loudspeakers. They've in the past done an outbound crossover for the Veracity HT3. and of course their flagship Soundscape is a bit too new for that but if someone had the money I wouldn't be surprised if they made an active version.

These are a few loudspeakers designed already Bi and Tri Amped. I highly recommend you track down one of those brands and audition them, I don't doubt you would be very impressed. ATC and PMC can be found in hi fi shopes, Seaton is an online brand so it may be a bit more difficult, but you may be able to find a Linkwitz Orion++ somewhere, although most of the ones that exist are DIY builds and may not "look" as impressive as the Wood Artistry stuff. ATC is your best bet. Very expensive brand mind you, and I'd be lying if I said their 44k speaker is worth 44k - but that's because I don't think any speaker is worth that much. With that said their products are just plain excellent. I also think the PMC stuff is out of this world. They're not only active, but transmission line speakers which have a uniquely lifelike sound. 

In the professional realm, where snake oil does not exist to the same extent and performance is the ultimate goal, bi-and-tri amped studio monitors are much more commonplace. A few excellent high end actively bi and tri amped professional loudspeakers include

Focal SM11 Studio Monitor
Genelec 1036A
JBL LSR6328P
Trident HG3
Dynaudio AIR 25


If you've got a Genelec, JBL, or Focal carrying pro audio shop you may want to consider auditioning that stuff too. A very excellent option may be the Focal Solo 6 Be. an active 2-way studio monitor that would run you only 2500/pr and wipe the floor with most passive bookshelfs out there. You'd be surprised how excellent professional audio equipment is... magazines like stereophile would not want you to think that but the reality is that pro audio usually uses better drivers, more neutral crossovers, and very well build cabinets too.

Active Crossovers can be done two ways

One is analogue - with opamps to control a signal prior to amplification
A second is digital - this takes away many issues with electrical phase and timing which exist in all analogue loudspeakers. This does however require an ADC along with a DAC in the signal chain, although a quality one will have little effect on the signal.

But the common theme is that the crossover is done BEFORE the amplification stage.



> I am curious as to your system and what equipment you have, a picture says more than words...


I'd love to, but there's 100s of wires everywhere... it would take some serious doktoring to get a good looking pic  ...plus there appears to be popcorn on the carpet... i need to vacuum.


----------



## THOMASWMAZ (Jan 11, 2011)

so you will not show photos, this i find curious... I am talking about 5,500k speakers and you are talking about 44k speakers. A line needs tobe drawn, you cant compare ferraris to cadillacs...In this scheme you are missing the point... I refuse to spend more than 5-6k for main speakers..thats my limit.. and my honest opinion to hear better I need to spend 12k a pair and its KEF. Try to be within the scope of things, you are going above and beyond reaching to the sky. The point is home theater has to be wihtin reach, before hitting diminshing return. The speakers I have are what I have the amps I have are what I have do I want to add an amp yes did I order a new Parasound amp today I did a 2250. Will I Bi amp or maybe bridge the amps , I dont know I just want to get the best sound for music or movies wahtever I want that day!! 
Heres a question for you should I bridge each amp to power each tower? or should I Bi-amp each amp to each tower? Which wil give me less distortion???


----------



## THOMASWMAZ (Jan 11, 2011)

ok so my processor is set to deliver a bi amped situation, so the highs and lows are separated per channel but obviously the speakers have their own crossover, while the integra does allow for 5hz-100khz and this is why the sound is marvelous


----------



## GranteedEV (Aug 8, 2010)

THOMASWMAZ said:


> so you will not show photos, this i find curious... I am talking about 5,500k speakers and you are talking about 44k speakers. A line needs tobe drawn, you cant compare ferraris to cadillacs...In this scheme you are missing the point... I refuse to spend more than 5-6k for main speakers..thats my limit.. and my honest opinion to hear better I need to spend 12k a pair and its KEF. Try to be within the scope of things, you are going above and beyond reaching to the sky. The point is home theater has to be wihtin reach, before hitting diminshing return. The speakers I have are what I have the amps I have are what I have do I want to add an amp yes did I order a new Parasound amp today I did a 2250. Will I Bi amp or maybe bridge the amps , I dont know I just want to get the best sound for music or movies wahtever I want that day!!
> Heres a question for you should I bridge each amp to power each tower? or should I Bi-amp each amp to each tower? Which wil give me less distortion???


Sorry, but only the PMC and ATC flagship speakers are in those "Luxury car" price ranges... you seem to have missed the other speakers I suggested.

Seaton Catalysts are 7000/pr and their (not-so) small sibling the Seaton Spark is $3000/pr. Where they stand out is that they use drivers which are uncommon in the Hi Fi realm. Compression driver tweeters, for example, can have a rather ragged response which requires very good and detailed crossover design. The DSP crossover used in the catalyst is what makes it sound so great. A compression driver will have better dynamics, higher power handling, and a more controlled directivity. 

NHT XDa was 6000 for a 2.1 system including electronics. I don't believe they manufacture this any more... but it was extremely well-received back then. You can still get the raw speakers with no crossovers, and purchase outbound electronics including a DEQX and amplification if you are in fact interested. 

Active Salk HT3s would run you below $10,000. THe main reason people asked for this is because the passive version was only 84 db sensitive, which is on the low end. I presume the DEQX crossover would allow you to increase overall sensitivity to around 89db or so, but of course you would no longer be using a Dennis Murphy designed crossover. Either way, it's a great loudspeaker, passive or active. 

Linkwitz Orions are a DIY speaker you could build for under 3k if you purchase plans and know how to solder and work with wood, and would cost somewhere from 5k in kit form and 9k if you're getting them completely made. The Wood Artistry Orion++ is not only an active loudspeaker, but one of the few Dipole Hi Fi speakers out there. The entire speaker is designed by Siegfried Linkwitz, one of the most notable pioneers in loudspeaker design history. He helped design the famous Linkwitz-Riley crossover filter... which by the way is exactly the crossover topology used in your own Def Tech BP7000s. He's an amazing engineer with an equally amazing love of music.

PMC, ATC, JBL pro, Focal pro, Genelec, and many others all do in fact have active offerings in different price ranges... i just named some of their ultra high end stuff because you seemed to associate high cost with being "Hi-Fi". Personally I believe that there's a only a select few high end speakers even close to worthy of five digit costs (Salk Soundscape 12, Revel Ultima2 Salon, JBL Everest, and the ATC and PMC stuff I mentioned earlier) but ultimately I agree with you that the law of diminishing returns rules above all else as music nor HT are my life... they are a hobby.

And regarding my posting pictires, I believe it is not pertinent to this thread, which I presumed was about giving you advice. If you are interested in my system for other reasons than to make some sort of "class judgement", then feel free to PM me and I will give you some pics of "The Mess".

Now regarding your question, bridging makes a lot more sense than passive bi amping. it will give up to four times the max rms power meaning you will be less likely to approach the limits of the amp and thus hear less strain. This is only if the amps remain stable in bridged mode and Jungle Jack seems to suggest they are.

My personal opinion is that each given loudspeaker has a certain threshold where amplification will no longer improve its sound. This threshold is determined by

1) The power compression of its drivers, and of course their individual sensitivity
2) Its electrical impedance, particularily from 20hz to 500hz. 

And I believe that the best way to improve sound quality is by getting room acoustics right. Taking away first reflection points, soundproofing, getting multiple subs in order to take away room nodes and modes, getting diffusion right etc. Once you've hit a threshold where the room can't be improved upon, you've usually only got two real options to upgrade

1) To have a CEDIA and THX certified builder actually build you a room designed for great acoustics
2) To upgrade your speakers.

Now if you feel that 5-6K is the most you're willing to spend, that's completely understandable. Whether you would find a loudspeaker that sounds better than your current Def Techs within that price range is a good question. In my opinion it can be done, but of course opinions are just that, opinions. You would have to do some heavy auditioning to determine that.

I do feel you could certainly improve upon your subwoofers, though, without spending an arm and a leg. Getting more, getting bigger, etc. It would however require a leap of faith into the realms of

A) Internet Direct
B) Do-it-yourself

I hope that whatever decisions you make with your money, they do in fact improve your performance beyond placebo effect. It's of course your money and if you truly feel that whatever devices or techniques will give you improved performance as the marketting dictages, then it's your money to spend! All I can do is give you information which I find to be in your best interest.


----------



## taoggniklat (Mar 30, 2010)

The thing with bi-amping is that the level of improvement is not easy to determine, outside of sitting down and trying it out. There are arguments for and against and both are valid...for good reason. Too often people expect a huge difference between one or the other and the fact is, it can be a very small difference if any.

The only way to know if you like passive bi-amping versus single amp is to try it. And in my experience, using the exact same amplifier will offer the least amount of perceived difference. Whatever you choose, you need to make sure they are level matched or the difference you hear will be because of that and not because of bi-amping.

I also believe that bi-amping for a home theater system is rather pointless unless you are using active bi-amping. You would be better off using the money for acoustic treatment, upgrading your speakers, or a fancy controller system, etc.

Regarding the Salks, yes you can get an active outboard crossover but if you ask Jim himself, he doesn't really recommend it but of course, will do what you want.


----------



## GranteedEV (Aug 8, 2010)

taoggniklat said:


> Regarding the Salks, yes you can get an active outboard crossover but if you ask Jim himself, he doesn't really recommend it but of course, will do what you want.


Dennis Murphy is an excellent passive crossover designer. The HT3s are a difficult speaker to improve upon plain and simple...so to spend more money on a speaker where the crossovers are outbound and then spend $2000-4000 on a DEQX to get very similar performance is not something I would recommend either.

I am an advocate for active crossovers, but a well designed passive crossover can be just as good, if more complicated as far as finding sufficient amplification. However what i'm not an advocate of is passive bi-amping. If you want to bi-amp, you need to go active. Most active speakers are do-it-yourself, but I was just posting a few brands which have active offerings as OP was unaware of any "Mid/Hi-Fi active speakers". All the speakers I listed are most certainly Hi-Fi and to some are "the last speakers they will ever own" but of course all speakers, no matter the cost, will have their short comings. There simply is no perfect speaker or any other piece in a home theater (except maybe furnature  ). Everything electronic has its limitations.


----------



## THOMASWMAZ (Jan 11, 2011)

OK, I just ordered another parasound 2250, so now both towers will have their own amp. O think I will bridge both amps and run a 10gauge wire to each speaker while keeping the speaker jumper in place. This will allow the amps to output 600-700rms continous with very limited distortion. please advice! please read equipement list above


----------



## Jungle Jack (Jul 28, 2009)

Hello,
That is going to sound awesome. The beauty of having that much power in my experience in the clarity you have when listening at relatively low listening levels. Again, the 2250 was Designed to drive even 4 Ohm loads Bridged which is quite rare. Very few Amplifiers are recommended for 4 Ohms Bridged with the overwhelming majority being recommended only for 8 Ohm Nominal.
Cheers,
JJ


----------



## THOMASWMAZ (Jan 11, 2011)

acutally stable at 2 ohms


----------



## Jungle Jack (Jul 28, 2009)

Hello,
That is for sure as I used a Center Channel that dips down to 2 Ohms and only used the 2250 Bridged to drive my Center Channel when I owned it. I have not read the specs in a while, but knew it was stable into 4 Ohms as I would not have used it Bridged otherwise. Parasound is a great Company and make awesome Amplifiers.
Cheers,
JJ


----------



## Trick McKaha (Oct 7, 2009)

First reading through this thread today, it seemed a little harsh in tone, and I too would prefer good advise be always coupled with a healthier dose of tact.

I did read a little about those Definitive Tech main speakers, though, and it looks to me they have so much attention given to their crossover network that it would be better to just drive them with higher power from one source, such as a bridged amp like Jungle Jack said, than to split the power into two with bi-amping. But with that 1800 watts of power built into the subwoofer section, you are only driving the mids and the tweeters with your Parasound amp. Maybe they could benefit from more power than 250 watts per channel, but only during huge transients. I would suggest some other kind of improvement. Perhaps a projector and tab tensioned electric screen? That would add more to your theater at night, I think.

Or room treatments, or special furniture.


----------



## THOMASWMAZ (Jan 11, 2011)

so you think i should bridge each amp to each tower??


----------



## THOMASWMAZ (Jan 11, 2011)

i love theser amps, i had bryston before but just love these guysi had the 470 mono block fo rme cneter incredible sound, i the the 5 channel big is was biu amping my towers thats it till it blew a channel then i sent it back for a an overhaul 300 hundred dollars then sold it on ebay for 2000, then picked up the parasound 5250, already had the byrstons and the paraosund 2250 and was jus tusing it for some speakers out side. but after reading and playig with it i love parasound the sound with my definitive technology 700SC is incredible to me..... i guess i am not a true stereo theater nut... i am not dropping 40k on speakers or 49k dollars on amp but i did drop over 25k and think im doing ti right and want to spend more as moeny is available with quality items, thank for replying!!!


----------



## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

THOMASWMAZ said:


> OK, I just ordered another parasound 2250, so now both towers will have their own amp. O think I will bridge both amps and run a 10gauge wire to each speaker while keeping the speaker jumper in place. This will allow the amps to output 600-700rms continous with very limited distortion. please advice! please read equipement list above


That is gonna be nice, your speakers will never have sounded so relaxed with that kind of power on tap, just a word of warning as i personally did this: pushed the speakers beyond there limits without even knowing it because they were sucking every ounce of energy i was throwing at them and spitting it back out with beautiful sound then KAPOOT! I burned out the tweeters suddenly then noticed voice coils overheating on the other drivers so just some advice, use the power wisely. Have fun.:T


----------



## gdstupak (Jul 13, 2010)

I agree with everything GranteedEV wrote.
If the speakers can perform better with more power, than that would give the best bang for the buck. Of course not all speakers need more power to perform to max potential.
After making sure everything else (i.e. room treatments) is at it's best and if I still had money to burn, then I might look into the nit-picky stuff like bi-amping (but as GranteedEV wrote, it has to be done correctly).


----------



## Trick McKaha (Oct 7, 2009)

THOMASWMAZ said:


> so you think i should bridge each amp to each tower??


Yes yes. They will be double sweet that way, because they will be delivering more power bridged than bi-amped, plus you keep using those built in fine tuned crossovers. Now that you have ordered the amp.

By the way, I'm using Emerald Physics CS2 speakers, which use active EQ so need bi-amping. They have an open baffle so give something like that bipolar sound of your speakers, and I sure like that some kinds of speakers remove the walls from the room. I'm driving mine with an Emotiva XPA-5, so the CS2 compression drivers have 200 watts available to them alone whether they need it or not. I know yours don't use compression drivers, but it does exemplify the point that pro drivers can work well in the home, if tuned well. The trick to mine, though, is no internal crossover - all external digital EQ factory finely set to tame those compression drivers. I digress.

Back to the point - more power on tap is always good, whether you "really" need it or not.

Some people say less is more, but I say more is more.

I do still think you could use more video equipment, too. When you are ready.


----------



## GranteedEV (Aug 8, 2010)

Trick McKaha said:


> Some people say less is more, but I say more is more.


Unless you're bambino. Then less is more. :hsd: :doh:


----------



## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

GranteedEV said:


> Unless you're bambino. Then less is more. :hsd: :doh:


LOL! More or less.:whistling:


----------

