# Soldering conical joints



## p.langlais (Jul 24, 2010)

Hey, I need to solder some switchcraft xlr connectors into an already wired patchbay. The problem is, I am having a tough time getting old solder out because it is not a normal solder point but what is called a conical. It is like a spring and has no opening to get out old solder. Does anyone know how to get the old solder out of conical points so that I can resolder new wires?


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

Hard to tell from what you wrote, but are you trying to re-cycle used XLR male connectors? If so, you don’t need to purge the old solder. If the old wires are out, just tin the new wire, apply a bit of fresh solder to the iron, and heat the solder cup. When the solder melts, push the new wire inside and remove the iron.

Regards,
Wayne


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## Lucky7! (Jan 7, 2008)

^^^ what Wayne said, or you could get a simple solder sucker or some wick for a couple of dollars. Both/either are handy to have if you solder much anyway.

First google image hits follow.


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## Anthony (Oct 5, 2006)

We use both of those at work all the time and they work really well for recycling connectors.

If the connectors are what I am picturing, they are just cups for the wire. I hate using solder as glue, but for these style RCA and XLR connectors, there is no way around it 

Good luck.


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## glaufman (Nov 25, 2007)

Anthony said:


> We use both of those at work all the time and they work really well for recycling connectors.
> 
> If the connectors are what I am picturing, they are just cups for the wire. I hate using solder as glue, but for these style RCA and XLR connectors, there is no way around it
> 
> Good luck.


Agreed. At work we have heavier duty spring loaded solder suckers, as well as motorized ones, but what's pictured above is what I use at home.
If the connector is a good design, it'll have strain relief built in that makes it not so bad for solder-as-glue...

If you're going to try to remove old solder though, be careful... it's sometimes tempting to try multiple times and heat the connector so far the the insulation between conductors melts and the pins skew and become unusable.

Like was said above though, unless there's a huge amount to start with, there's really no need to remove the old.


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## glaufman (Nov 25, 2007)

If you can't find the tools above, or really trying to save a buck, another trick for removal is to just heat the pin, and quickly remove the iron and bang the connector on a ridgid surface, any excess solder should splatter away, so make make sure it's not a damageable surface. If it spreads into a nice thin splatter, as it almost always does, it'll be cool enough to touch by the time you can get your hand there. If it's a ball, pick it up with tweezers or let it cool a while.


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## gsmollin (Apr 25, 2006)

Be sure to wear safety glasses and old pants when you are soldering. Especially the whack-it-on-the-bench-while-molten trick really makes hot solder fly.


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## Lucky7! (Jan 7, 2008)

gsmollin said:


> Be sure to wear safety glasses and old pants when you are soldering. Especially the whack-it-on-the-bench-while-molten trick really makes hot solder fly.


Very unsafe, and not a recommended practice.

Best is to use a proper brass pad on a base such as below but a pad of non-soaped steel wool works well in a pinch or for the occasional solderer.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

If you do the smack it on the hard surface method be careful that stuff makes burns that seem to take weeks to heal. I'd suggest the wicking method or a desoldering device.:T


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## glaufman (Nov 25, 2007)

I prefer the wet sponge to steel wool, but I have been known to gently use the smack method as well... not so unsafe for us ol-timers that've been doing it for years and know what to expect the burn to feel like... but not advisable if you haven't already grown your own protective layer of asbestos.


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## Lucky7! (Jan 7, 2008)

glaufman said:


> I prefer the wet sponge to steel wool


A wet sponge contact just before actual soldering will cool the tip down from the correct temperature and result in a less than optimum connection.


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

Hmm. That’s what I’ve always done and I’ve never had a problem. The solder won’t melt and flow into the joint unless both are at the correct temperature, so I don't see how it could be an issue...

Regards,
Wayne


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

glaufman said:


> I prefer the wet sponge to steel wool, but I have been known to gently use the smack method as well... not so unsafe for us ol-timers that've been doing it for years and know what to expect the burn to feel like... but not advisable if you haven't already grown your own protective layer of asbestos.


I love it, "protective layer of asbestos". When i weld somthing off at work and i see a hot BB of steel coming at me i'm thinking "thats gonna burn for a minute". LOL.:yikes:


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