# my build list and ?s



## claycity (Aug 28, 2012)

I have a set of the ksp-300, my son and i want to copy/design a set like this for his room. I'm having a hard time (still searching here and the net) picking the right speakers for the build. I want to keep the cost down at les cheaper than a set of the KSP-300. Here are the spec
SPECIFICATIONS
BUILT FROM: 1997 
BUILT UNTIL: 1999 
DIMENSIONS: 42" (106.7cm) x 8.75" (22.2cm) x 18" (45.7cm) 
ENCLOSURE MATERIAL: Medium density fiberboard construction (MDF) 
ENCLOSURE TYPE: Sealed 
EXPORT VOLTAGE: 230 VAC 50/60Hz 
FINISHES: Medium Oak, Mahogany, Black Satin 
FREQUENCY RESPONSE: 32Hz-20kHz(+-)3dB 
HIGH FREQUENCY HORN: 6" square 90(o)x60(o) Tractrix(r) Horn 
MAX ACOUSTIC OUTPUT: 114dB SPL 
MAXIMUM ACOUSTIC OUTPUT: 114dB SPL 
MIDRANGE: K-1055-SV 6.5" (16.51cm) IMG cone 
NOMINAL IMPEDANCE: 8 ohms 
POWER HANDLING: 150 watts maximum continuous (600 watts peak) 
SENSITIVITY: 94dB @ 1watt/1meter 
SUBWOOFER: K-1066-K 12" (30.84cm) Poly cone 
TWEETER: K-97-KV 1" (2.54cm) Polymer dome compression driver 
VOLTAGE: 110/120 VAC / 60Hz 
WEIGHT: 78 lbs. (35.4kg) 

The Freq response above is the whole speaker right?
The 6" sq 90x60 tractrix horn is just the plastic part? and the k-97-kv 1" is the driver? what is the better tweeter the screw in or 2 bolt?
for the mid and sub what do i look for when selecting them?

this is the 12" sub specs and this will be a powered sub 

Ideal in two or three way applications, or as a subwoofer
Suitable for sealed or vented enclosures 
120W/240W RMS/peak
Polypropylene cone
Rubber surround
1.5" voice coil
24oz. magnet
Sensitivity: 91dB (W/M)
Impedance: 8ohm
Re: 7.2ohm
Le: 0.91mH
Frequency response: 50Hz~5KHz
Fs: 42Hz
Qts: 0.47
Qes: 0.57
Qms: 3.24
Vas: 122.6 liters
Xmax: 5mm
Overall frame diameter: 12.20"
Required cutout: 10.95"
Mounting depth: 5.04"

the mid specs
Ideal in a wide variety of new and replacement applications
Suitable for sealed or vented enclosures 
50W/100W RMS/peak
Polypropylene cone
Rubber surround
1" voice coil
16.6oz. magnet
Sensitivity: 88dB (W/M)
Impedance: 8ohm
Re: 7.2ohm
Le: 0.39mH
Frequency response: 60Hz~8KHz
Fs: 40Hz
Qts: 0.42
Qes: 0.48
Qms: 3.66
Vas: 26.93 liters
Xmax: 3.5mm
Overall frame diameter: 6.54"
Required cutout: 5.60"
Mounting depth: 3.0"

and the tweeter 

Perfect for PA/DJ speakers, larger horn enables improved efficiency and extended low frequency response.
Combination 1.35" titanium dome tweeter attached to a 6.10" x 7.68" horn
15oz. magnet 
80W/160w RMS/Peak power capacity 
Titanium dome
1.35" voice coil
15oz. magnet
Sensitivity: 103dB (W/M)
Impedance: 8ohm
Re: 6.3ohm
Frequency response: 800Hz~20KHz
Outer frame: 6 1/16" (H) x 7.5/8" (W)
Required cutout: 4 7/16" (H) x 6 1/4" (W)
Overall depth: 6.34"

Using this a 2 way crossover a good or bad thing?
Three-Way Crossover
Passive speaker crossover provides 12dB/octave slope at 500Hz and 4.5KHz, 300W max power capacity. Designed for 8ohm drivers. 

Thanks for the help 
like i said I'm still reading and learning this stuff.one


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## fbov (Aug 28, 2008)

While these excepts from the mfr's documentation are interesting, unless you have these specific drivers (actually a second set, right?), you're better off with high level goals, like a list of what you like about them now, plus the room size, amp, listening preferences,etc. 

You should also be aware that we're in a renaissance for DIY speaker building, due to the general availability of measurement systems and simulation software. You can start with arbitrary drivers and build a workable speaker, by characterizing the drivers, inputting that data into simulators, and designing custom crossovers. It's not the cheap way, but it makes for a great hobby.

If you really want high quality, high value speakers, build a "proven design."

If you're lookiing for a modern high-sensivity system, I'd ask here:
http://www.avsforum.com/f/155/diy-speakers-and-subs

Sensitivity comes at a price; you'll see lots of horn or waveguide designs at AVS. Here's a couple sites that aren't as focused on a specific design family. 
http://www.htguide.com/forum/forumdisplay.php4?f=6
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/forumdisplay.php?2-Tech-Talk-Forum

Both have links to completed speakers/existing designs that will bury you in options, so ask... 

Have fun,
Frank


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## Anthony (Oct 5, 2006)

Also, don't be afraid to call the folks at Parts Express. They are good at matching existing drivers to old ones (for repair work) and can even do crossover design and such (for a small fee) if you don't want to invest in a full suite of test and eval tools.

I'm with Frank in that I have a bunch of drivers, crossover parts, and test tools and just tinker as a hobby. One of these days I'll build the perfect speaker 

Good luck and welcome to HTS!


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## DrDyna (Jul 21, 2011)

If this is your first build, I would seriously consider doing an existing design. There's just so many out there.

The short list of places to look:

http://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy

http://zaphaudio.com

http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm (some of these can get pricey but worth it.)


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## claycity (Aug 28, 2012)

Well i think im going to go with fbov and use my build list and build something else and not copy my Klipsch.
Im think of building a home entertainment center with the speackers built in. using my build sheet and what i have already 
61" JVC 
Yamaha RX_V1700
Sony s300 
and my HTPC 
then sale the Klipsch.
Here is a pic from Sketchup, what you do you think?


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## fbov (Aug 28, 2008)

You've laid out a very ambitious project, but I think you'd benefit from the Toole excerpts at the top of the HTGuide link to completed designs. 
http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=28655

Figure 12.11a shows what happens when you put a speaker on a shelf. In acoustic terms, edges are your enemy, and alcoves you worst nightmare. The subs are fine, as their output is at long enough wavelength that the shelves don't exist, but the mids and tweets will see them and not react well. Plus, this is all in-wall, so you'll need all in-wall designs. (That's fig. 12.8... freestanding vs. freestanding-when-wall-mounted. In-wall designs look like 12.8a when wall mounted. 

HAve fun,
Frank


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## claycity (Aug 28, 2012)

this really hurts my head LOL. 
well the design has changed the shelves on the will not be there. 
I'm still reading both pages. So how do i build/design a speaker to work like this. I'm working in a very tight place i live in Japan so my house is small. The wall it will be set against it 10' long but to the left it open to the kitchen. The driving factor is the TV is 61" my old center is falling apart and i cant hang stuff on the wall.
I really want it to sound nice too but is not the real driving factor here. 
How do i know where the put my KSP-300 in my room next to things and spaced away from stuff? 

Oh ya where do i find the How to on reading the graphs LOL 
thanks for all the help 
im lucky that i wont have time to build these untill April so i have plenty of time to read things


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## fbov (Aug 28, 2008)

OK, I get that. I'm a data junky, so my head hurts when I can't find data!

Let me introduce a concept that explains a lot of the pitfalls of audio - diffraction. While this may be counterintuitive, it makes successful predictions, and that's all we can really ask of science. Here's a link to speaker applications of diffraction, but it's present in all wave phenomena. 
http://www.zaphaudio.com/DLR/sb_diffraction.html
http://www.zaphaudio.com/mtg-surface.html

Wherever there is an edge near a speaker, the edge becomes a source for diffracted energy, a new "driver" so to speak. The first link talks about the edges of the box, baffle diffraction, which is both a source of ripple in the upper frequencies, and responsible for the big drop in SPL at low frequencies. 

The second talks to a specific case - surface- vs. flush-mounting of drivers. Key message is to always flush moount round tweeter, but this shows you the data. The waviness in the FR results from energy difracted by the tweeter mounting plate, for several conditions. 

Keep in mind that by building a proven design, you don't need to know the details, even as a basic understanding will lead you to better decisions.

HAve fun,
Frank


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