# Monkeyboy HT build



## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Well after several year of dreaming about a HT and a steady outflow of cash acquiring nice AV equipment I am ready to take the plunge and convert my beloved basement shop into a home theater/ "go down in the basement and get of my hair room" for the two children. :wits-end:

I do have a decent knowledge base from forum trolling and completing quite a bit of remodeling and construction work over the years. That said, there are still a myriad of questions circling around in my head about various things. So, I'll guess I'll start with where I am at now and lob a few questions out there. I just started last week to get the basement ready for refinishing.. Like installing a vapor barrier, digging out spot for egress window in the back corner, moving ventilation ducts and cold air returns to eliminate ugly soffits.. Basically the dirty work.

The thought was to have one half of the room for theater and game playing and the back half for socializing, kid playing, etc. 

The finished basement space is currently planned to be 16' wide and 28' long with a ceiling height that is rather low..I want to say it is going to end up being 7'. *Is this dimension a nightmare for sound because it is divisible by a common denominator? *

I am framing in 2x4 walls approximately 1/2" inside the concrete walls with- R13 insulation. In an attempt to decouple these walls I wanted them to be attached to the concrete wall and the sill plate only instead of the first floor joists. I figured that the sill plate has quite a bit of mass and dampening..after all, its an old growth fir 6x6 and it has a whole house sitting on it. *(Is this going to be sufficient?--How much better would isolation clips attached tot he foundation walls work?) *

My thought for the ceiling is two layers of 5/8 with GG. GG on all the joists before installation. I am also going to either install fiberglass batts in the joists bays (likely) or blow in cellulose after the drywall is up (less likely). (I would really like to be able to play my SVS sub above wife listening levels without shaking the whole house). I can afford to loose ceiling height so clips and track are out. Flooring will be Vapor barrier, T&G plywood, padding and carpet. 

For lighting I am thinking can lights, a sconce or two and rope lighting inside small crown molding. 

Seating will not likely be "real" theater seating but simply a wrap around couch.

My audio gear consists of :

Polk RTI 8 mains, Polk Csi A4 center, umm forgot the surround models..they are small polks. Onkyo Sr607 receiver, SVS Pc-12NSD subwoofer---(moo awesome BTW), samsung blue ray, xbox 360, Hd cable box. blah blah blah.

*A couple questions.. * Is a projector suitable for everyday viewing of TV? WE don't watch tons of TV but wonder if the big screen is fatiguing? Does it have to be absolutely dark to get a decent picture? It would be nice to have some lights on for the kids to play in one half of the room and me watch some TV. Perhaps I should build a divider wall similar to..http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...nstruction/15304-new-theater-suggestions.html

Do the reasonably priced projectors (around $1,000) in my case provide high quality pictures? I'm looking for something on par to my samsung LCD. 

Would love to hear any comments or suggestions... Especially about my short ceiling height. Would like to go with a 100" screen. I'm looking to build something really nice..as that is just how I roll but I am also trying to keep things within a reasonable budget. 

Funny that I just spent the winter months building this media cabinet... and now I'll probably but all my AV gear in a built in . siggghhhhh Anybody want a custom built bubinga and curly maple media cabinet?


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

bbieger said:


> I am framing in 2x4 walls approximately 1/2" inside the concrete walls with- R13 insulation. In an attempt to decouple these walls I wanted them to be attached to the concrete wall and the sill plate only instead of the first floor joists.
> 
> Spacing in an inch or so is good. Connect to the slab. Connect to the joists. Fill with R13. I'm more concerned with your comment that you connected this wall to the concrete. You mean the top plate of the new framed wall is conected to the concrete? That would be OK
> 
> ...


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Thanks for the comments Jeff. Just to clarify, only the new top plate of my wall will be connected to the old sill plate via 90 degree brackets. Top plate = old sill, bottom plate bolted to foundation (floor). 

I had read that you can apply green glue to studs in lieu of tape... http://www.soundisolationstore.com/research-how-to-apply-green-glue

In terms of dealing with the can lights, I was going to build and install MDF boxes to install the can lights in, not really stoked about building all those MDF boxes but whatever.. cheaper than buying them..http://www.soundisolationstore.com/quietbox-recessed-light-soundproofing.html


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

A $1k pj isn't even going to come close to a decent LCD - sorry. Big pic only goes so far if the quality is variable.

Cans penetrating the ceiling defeat your isolation attempts unless you box them in. Soffits are there for a reason (lighting, hvac, wiring, etc.) but AFTER you drywall the room.


The 7' ceiling height is an issue regardless of how it relates to the other dimensions of the room. That puts the 1/2 point at 42". General rule of thumb seated ear height is 40-42" so you're right in a huge modal problem for the height dimension.

Bryan


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

If you have interest in building a box, this may be of interest: http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/manual/sim_backer_box_installation_guide/ Bryan is right about their necessity.

Thanks for the clarification on your wall. Assuming the 1/2" or better distance from the foundation, that wall would be considered decoupled. The foundation and the new wall drywall comprise a "double leaf system." Your construction allows the inner leaf to move independently.


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Ok, sounds like the boxs are going to be a neccesity. Trying to avoid soffits due to height. I do have a question about the walls though.. Is the 1/2" offset from the wall more of an accoustical preference or sound transmition reduction method? Also, should I use 5/8 rock for the walls as well? That stuff is a bear to hang but if it going to sound better so be it. I'm just unsure of it's neccesity on a decoupled wall. 
Thanks a bunch! Going to fire up the framing hammer tonight.


_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

Soffits are great for ventilation mufflers. You'll want to consider getting air in and out without compromising your sound isolation.

The 1/2" offset is for isolation. As I mentioned, the gap will allow that drywall panel to move independently. The leaves are decoupled, and this will significantly lower that partition's low frequency resonance point, allowing you to contain low frequencies much better.

Similarly, the mass of the 5/8" drywall will move that low frequency resonance point down even farther. The presence of insulation as well as the cavity depth also contribute to progressively marching that LF resonance point down. 

On decoupled framing, mass and insulation provide an even bigger payback than they would on a coupled frame system.


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## MatrixDweller (Jul 24, 2007)

Ted White said:


> For lighting I am thinking can lights, a sconce or two and rope lighting inside small crown molding.
> 
> Put holes in your ceiling? Much more effort to isolate now. Can you consider track and sconce only?
> 
> ...


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Hmmm good results with no boxes? Could one dynomat the cans and achieve decent results? While I want decent results I'm not building a rcording studio....
I'll ponder it as I descend into the basement to make sawdust and noise


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Decent - maybe. Good - no. Remember that you get ONE shot at doing this. There's no going back later and changing if you change your mind (without ripping the whole room down.) It's not a big deal to do the boxes and eliminate the issue rather than trying to fix a problem

Bryan


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

As a rule ceiling cans aren't at all recommended without the backer box. Again Bryan is right on the money. You have one shot to get this right. You want Mass. Ceiling cans have no mass. Some rubber solutions have a bit of mass. But a simple field assembled box has a lot of mass.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## MatrixDweller (Jul 24, 2007)

bbieger said:


> While I want decent results I'm not building a rcording studio....
> I'll ponder it as I descend into the basement to make sawdust and noise


Boxes shouldn't be too hard to build and will help. 

I hear what you're saying about not building a recording studio. Even if you take modest measures to soundproof you'll be happy with the results rather than having no soundproofing at all.

If I had of done the research before I started building I would have built boxes around my cans. I'm still happy with the results without them however.


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Yeah the one shot at it really makes sense to me. I'll build the boxes. I have to sit down and figure out all the lighting and cable runs as I'll likely have it all framed up by the end of the weekend. I'll submit some pics and a floor plan for some advice. Especially on rack placement, lights, and espcecialy where shoul I run conduit for the projector that I have no money for 
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

Holler if you have questions about the framing. The framing is critical, since this is what decouples the system.

I'd once again encourage you to consider decoupling the ceiling. If you want ideas / images. let us know


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Ok, so here is a layout that I sketched. Man this room is long and skinny  Of well, sans moving the chimney it has to stay skinny. (no, I'm not going to move the chimney...but I did think about getting rid of it :bigsmile:

So today I am framing the egress windw and building a window well. I'll post some pics later. Couple questions about the layout.

What do you think about the can light location?
Also, the position of the media cabinet seems less than ideal. It will be built into the wall but it seems too close to the tv/screen?
Also, is there a way to approximate where a projector would go so I can run the cables now.

Cables have come a long way so I am thinking:
1. HDMI from media cab to TV and media cab to projector.
2. Ethernet, Coaxial for comcast, 
3. Speaker wires for 5.1 (is 7.1 REALLY all of that? I've heard both sides) 

Am I missing cable runs that I should put in? 

Thanks for the help guys!! Your input provides inspiration to keep up the perspiration!!


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## spartanstew (May 7, 2009)

bbieger said:


> Also, the position of the media cabinet seems less than ideal. It will be built into the wall but it seems too close to the tv/screen?


It depends upon the user. Some like the equipment to be invisible, so they'll place it in the rear of the room, or in another room altogether (so lights aren't distracting). I prefer the location that you currently have it in. The lights aren't noticeable (IMO) when looking at the display and it allows me to glance over at the equipment for information I might want (volume level, audio track, time left on movie, etc.).



bbieger said:


> Also, is there a way to approximate where a projector would go so I can run the cables now.


It's really dependent upon the projector (and throw), so you won't really know until you decide upon a projector. You could always run line from the media cabinet to the second can light (from the front) and then from there all the way to the back wall (basically running alongside the third green can light and the two blue ones). When you decide on a projector, you can replace any of those cans with a projector mount and pull the line through. The bigger issue is where to put an outlet for the projector. You could always put a couple of outlets and the different ceiling positions.





bbieger said:


> Cables have come a long way so I am thinking:
> 1. HDMI from media cab to TV and media cab to projector.
> 2. Ethernet, Coaxial for comcast,
> 3. Speaker wires for 5.1 (is 7.1 REALLY all of that? I've heard both sides)


You should also run at least 2" conduit from the media cabinet to the TV and projector area just in case.

With a room that deep, there's definitely the option for 7.1. I'd at least run the speaker wire for it on the back wall, just in case.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

If it were me, and only wanting one sectional in there, I'd very seriously consider shortening the room. This is for several reasons.

Proper seating position acoustically will require the screen to be relatively large. With the room only being a bit under 11' wide, where do you put your speakers unless you do an AT screen?

General rule of thumb is that no one dimension is no more than 2.5' any other dimension. The length is over 2.5x the width and over 3x the height.

Bryan


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

bpape said:


> If it were me, and only wanting one sectional in there, I'd very seriously consider shortening the room. This is for several reasons.
> 
> Proper seating position acoustically will require the screen to be relatively large. With the room only being a bit under 11' wide, where do you put your speakers unless you do an AT screen?
> 
> ...


yeah, I'm curious what you think the proper spacing would be for the front main speakers?

I thought about shortening the room but I need the run around room for the kids..


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

I a room that length, optimal distance to avoid modal issues from the length (lowest and hardest to deal with) is between 8'9" from either the front or rear wall.

From the front that would likely dictate a larger TV or small PJ screen. Even so, that leaves maybe 1.5' outside the screen on both sides so the speakers are essentially against the wall. 

The long way, just not going to get proper viewing angles.

Could you wall off a portion of the back of the room and have a door that could be left open for the kids and closed when watching movies/listening to music seriously?

Just thinking out loud.

Bryan


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## MatrixDweller (Jul 24, 2007)

You may want to place the light circuits in three banks, front, center and rear. Rather than sides, middle and rear. Have the center bank over your seating so that it can be on slightly and the front and rear can be totally off. That will give you better screen viewing dynamics and allow you to see your remote and/or popcorn.

My room is about 10' wide and long like yours. I have two rows of lighting on one dimmable circuit (wish I had of done front and back lighting). My ceiling is 7'-6" high and the lights are spaced about 4' apart on center. With the pot lights at full the room is very bright even though the baffles are black and the bulbs are only 50W (can take up to 75W). I rarely use my sconces and they are basically just ornamental.

I found this guide fairly helpful. You probably don't need three rows, two will be more than adequate unless you plan on using narrow beam halogen lights. If you want more lights then task lighting or wall washers are always nice. 

You can check out my build thread here: http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...nstruction/6932-diy-home-theater-project.html

Another tip with the lighting and dimmers. Only buy the PAR type bulbs. BR type bulbs tend to hum when dimmed (I found out the hard way). For Edison type bulbs on a dimmer, ceiling fan or appliance bulbs can reduce the hum. I had a thread on that also.

As for 7.1: You might as well either run conduit or wire for it while the walls aren't closed. It's a lot easier now then later. As to the best spot for the rear channels someone else might answer that better. My guess would be near your rear egress window, on stands behind your sectional or hanging from the ceiling.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

One other thought on lighting... If using dimmers, use electrical dimmers and all 110v (not low voltage). Low voltage transformers hum and are noisy both physically and electrically. Same for mechanical dimmers - they'll throw all kinds of hash into the electrical lines.

Bryan


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## MatrixDweller (Jul 24, 2007)

Hi highly recommend the Lutron Grafik Eye, but they aren't cheap. They can be controlled via IR and have low voltage accessories that can be attached to it (ie: a second IR eye, secondary switches, etc). You can also program scenes into it so that one button press dims, turns on/off certain zones. You will need a deeper 3 gang receptacle box for it though.

The Maesto or similar single zone dimmers share the same IR codes so you can't control separate zones with a remote if they are all ganged together.

Another note about the recessed lighting boxes: Make sure that you still use I/C rated housings as they will not heat up as much. Even with I/C rated boxes they still need to be an inch or so away from wood and should not make contact with the boxes you are building around them. I thought it didn't matter when I did mine, but the electrical inspector informed me otherwise. There was maybe a ¼ of an inch of space from the top of the can to the floor on mine because the joists are only 2x8s. I had to lower them slightly by adding an inch of drywall underneith (as seen in my build thread). Hindsight would have had me use low profile cans instead.


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

thanks for the lighting tips. So do ALL the maestro's have the same IR code? Seemed like a cheap way to get dimmers that I can control with my logitech all in one remote. That lutron is Waaaay out of my league. worse comes to worse I will physically get up and dim the lights :gulp:

Of a bigger concern at this point is what I should do about projector and screens etc. I was hoping for a 100" 16:9 screen but indeed I think that will be too much screen for my sized room. It would only leave less than 2' on each side and only a foot and half top and bottom. While a projector would be cool for the wow factor, perhaps I should be looking at a 73" dlp TV instead and just figure a way to mount it on the wall?

The bummer is that I know little about projectors and DLP tv's....

Any thoughts?

Sorry no pictures yet. I had a marathon day digging out the drywell for the egress window, framing the well, filling everything back in, adding rock...UGHHH.


I will say this though. Pneumatic nail gun...best invention known to man.


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Well, after much debate and googling and reading and a little bit of "oh the hell with it" thoughts it seems the best setup is going to be a 93" 16:9 DIY screen mounted to a false wall that I can mount all my speakers behind. This will avoid having my speakers crammed into the corners. Seating will be around 12-13' from the screen.

But, like many things, this present a problem.... WHERE TO MOUNT THE PROJECTOR?

I have pretty much settled on the new epson 8100 and with that screen size I can mount anywhere between 9 and 20 feet from the screen. But here is the rub.. When all finished, my ceilings are really low (6' 9"). The projector hanging from the ceiling will likely be a distraction to viewers cause it is soo low..no?

I was thinking that I could frame a little box to hold the projector on the side wall (would be screen ward of the seating). Or perhaps I could build a coffee table or something with a slot to hold the projector? But this seems like it would be fairly low? 

I could use some suggestions for mounting locations... 

Thanks


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Well here are some pics of my wonderous home theater LOL.

Got the egress window all framed up. Ugghhh Sawing and chipping through 100 year old concrete is no fun. 

Got the one wall all framed up and put some insulation on to basically get it out of the way and dampen some of the tool noise. 

Still wondering about projector placement. On the low ceiling, off to the side, or in some kind of cabinet in front of the seats?

Got my lights and romex and order all my AV cable and fittings.  In the process of building light boxes.

Oh yeah, got my screen installed!! Couldn't decide on white or grey so I went for pink. :heehee:


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Love the pink screen. Maybe you'll start a new trend.

Bryan


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

The pink screen also doubles as a target for nail gun practice if you get really bored :dumbcrazy: LO


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Got all the wiring done, well at least the outlets and speaker runs. Still have to tackle the lights. I also cranked out 16 soundproof boxes for the can lights. I'm still struggeling with how to run the circuits on the lights. I thought that having the two outside wall wash lights on a single dimmer could generate a cool effect but someone did make a good comment about being able to shut everything off in the area closest to the screen. Any ideas out there?

I'll be installing my can light boxes via the method I outlined in my other thread so I'll detaikl with pics to let everyone know how it goes.

Cheers,
Brian


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

You definitely want to be able to shut off the front 1/3 to 1/4 of the room independently. 

Watch any mechanical dimmer. They're noisy both mechanically and electrically.

Bryan


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## bbr81 (Nov 23, 2009)

looking good, keep up the work


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Wiring all done, sheet rock on walls, hat channel installed and most of the lights hung in place in anticipation of hanging the ceiling rock this weekend. 

Here are a few pics of the room, the sound proof light boxes and the installation method I will be using for the boxes. I hung the boxes from the rafters with very light gauge wire, then ran the wires through them, sealed the holes, then installed the light. When I install the sheet rock, a bead of adhesive will go around the edge of the box, and the light will fit into a pre-cut hole. tadah..totally decoupled from the joists.


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

What a fine job and generous posting of pictures!


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Thanks Ted. It has been a hectic couple of weeks. Seems like everyday there is a box of this or a box of that arriving at the door step. I can't wait to surface the inside of what will be the media cabinet and address the octopus of wires in there.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Looking good. It's fun when everything starts showing up.

Bryan


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

It's all coming together nicely..:T


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Drywall finished on Xmas eve in true obsesive fashion . I would like to personally thank the individual who invented the drywall lift. Made things spook much easier! Light boxes went in without a hitch. Taping ceiling later this week and priming the walls! 
Need to get off my **** and decide about false wall AT screen or not. Ahhh the beauty of indecision. 

Happy holidays everyone!! Specially those who have been helping me out with my build.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

My wife got me an epson 1800 for my birthday!! Never sawthat co
ing although I dropped a thousand hints. Took a break from the dust and shot some scenes on a white wall in the basement. Soooo stoked!!
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Major bummer of a snag. Paying the price of being lazy. Guy at lowes "oh yeah, this textured wall paper will really hide and imperfections in the drywall" ok then, I'll skip over much of the sanding and blending and throw the wall paper up. 

Wow, this brown wallpaper looks great and the vertical line texture really sets the room off. Sprayed a coat of dark burgundy eggshell..... (I can't cuss as I ahve already been warned but feel free to insert your favorite expletive hear). THE WALLS LOOK TERRIBLE!! Every little dimple, mud line, seam, you name it jumped out of the walls. 

Barely slept that night, probably went down to look at the room about 10 times. :hissyfit::hissyfit: Came home from work, bought a 6 pack of african amber and tore all the wallpaper down.

Next chapter.. coat of kills to seal all the paper that got ripped off and a complete skim coat of the walls. 

Anyone interested in $160 dollars worth of burgandy wallpaper? Free shipping!! LOL.


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## MatrixDweller (Jul 24, 2007)

I find that a high powered lamp pointed at the wall while mudding and sanding really helps. You can see a lot more detail when it has the light pointed at it and how well of a job you are doing. 

I guess you've learned your lesson now. The easy road isn't always the best road to take.


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Yeah, the lazy shortcut seemed so attractive.. I mean, who really likes sanding drywall. The irony of the situation is now I have even more sanding to do. Siggh.

But I did $500 from the forum so that takes ALLOT of the sting out of it!! So know while sanding I'll think about purchasing a sub EQ, or a decent AT screen, or perhaps a massage LOL.


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

ok,so I'm on vacation so not much going on i the way of the HT build other than I decided to build a new sub . 
amazing sunset yesterday, thought I would share


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

OK, its been awhile since I posted any pictures of my build. Looking at the old pictures..WOW what a difference.

So..completed the drywall, paid to have it textured (pretty heavy but I dig it). Three coats of sprayed on burgundy paint, painted ceiling black above the screen, sound deadening of front wall and installed first row of burlap covering, framed false wall, and installed wall plates and outlets oh yeah, installed trims on all the lights except front row.

This morning I started to construct my media cabinet and got the top and sides in and wired all the wall plates. You can see that I built a little trap door in the back of the cabinet so no more yanking out my receiver and tons of wires to make adjustments or install new things. Its a little ghetto from the back..but hey it works and its airtight so.


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

That wall finish looks very classy! :T
Is it the paint itself that gives that texture or something applied to the plaster board?


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Finally, someone giving my thread some love. 

The texture is simply sprayed on just like normal drywall texture. I hired someone to do it as I was just about fed up with the drywall "thang" and didn't want to mess it up. The texture is known as "knock down" and is basically texture blown on the wall (each splatter being between a nickel and quarter in size. After it has dried for 5-10 minutes you go over it very lightly with a plastic trowel and "knock it down" flat.

The wife was a little worried but it came out excellent. The light casts little shadows on the wall and really makes the dark color pop. Going to do some mundane stuff like trim the window tonight.


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## mayhem13 (Feb 2, 2008)

I think the room can use some mirrors.....wadda you think?:rofl:


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Lol. I'll tell you what; if I put a couch down there with one of those clear vinyl covers you can ship me your mirrors 
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## jmmdm2 (Mar 3, 2009)

I know all about drywall!!!!!!!!!!! I hate it hate hate hate it!!!!! The walls weren't too bad but the ceiling... ugh! My plan was to do an ok job on the ceiling and then match the popcorn with the rest of the house. Well, I listened to a friend that mentioned popcorn is not the way to go and everyone loves flat ceilings. I give it a go and I'm impressed with my work... till morning. The early sunlight caught every line and imperfection. It was awful.

My solution is we watch any early morning news programs upstairs and only use the HT later in the day.

I should have hired a pro to clean it up, your walls look awesome. I wonder if that texture has any acoustic properties.


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

The problem with getting texture looking good is consistency, and that is where it helps to hire a pro. I think I paid $160. I had the area all masked off and ready to go he just had to come in and shoot. only the really heavy texture will hide bad seems

And as I found out the expensive way, even textured wallpaper won't hide poor seams.


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

My build is now draining my soul . Soo close but yet soo many details. Then again 
, spending this weekend building a tht sub didn't help much 
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

It can be frustrating, I know!..The main thing is not to rush it and skip over details..
The end result will be far more satisfying, knowing that everything has been done properly!:T


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## kepople (Sep 19, 2008)

Looking great! 
The final result will be worth the last bit of frustration.

Eventually, you will get to spend hours setting up and balancing your audio... that was the fun part for me... 
Kirby


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Finished my tuba sub and just HAD to drag it in and play some heavy bass tracks from the lap top. It has an impressive output but my svs does seem to be much clearer on the low volume stuff. This was my first test of the soundproofing efforts. I must say, even with no door on my theater I was pretty impressed. The bass I was playing was REALLY loud..like wow, my body feels weird, I think I'll step away from the sub loud. but upstairs you couldn't really hear it that much. Stuff was vibrating and what not but it was 1,000 times more quiet than in the theater.

Ordered my AT screen from Chris at Seymour AV today. GOM from Bpape should be in the mail....right? And bought royal black III Velvet from Joanns. Shinned a light on the royal and a scrap of fidellio..I could not see one shred of difference. (other than 3 yards of this stuff was $40 cheaper).


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

GOM order has been confirmed by them. Should be on the way.

Bryan


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

Glad the isolation efforts are paying off


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Just received an e-mail that fedex delivered my Seymour AT screen!!   and I'm stuck at the office. I tell you, this whole "work thihng" really gets in the way of living sometimes.


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## chrapladm (Jun 17, 2009)

Tuba sub???
Is this a BFM tuba sub?

Just curious. Nice build so far.


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Yeah, I built a 22" wide version of his THT. Blows my SVS away. Very sensitive to position for sure but sounds great!!


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## chrapladm (Jun 17, 2009)

I am building the 24" version for my HT. I was wondering what you thought of its abiltity to handle reference volume?

I thought of maybe building 2 for my HT but not sure yet. I tend to always like overkill.


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

LOL,yeah it can handle it for sure. With a 240 plate amp I can put out insane levels. I was standing in front of it while doing some initial testing playing the chemical brothers "bass test" song. I seriously felt sick to my stomach..I had to turn it off.


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

AND NOW...The exciting conclusion.....

I do believe its done?? I mean, yeah, I would like to build a bar and install a kegorator behind the couch but really the only thing I NEED to do is run REW a couple hundred times and calibrate my projector.

So you basically have front and back shots of the theater room. (some with jumpy 3yo). Shot of yhe media cabinet, shots of my false wall both with and without covers installed, and the obligatory unretouched screen shot.

umm , yeah I kind of ran out of steam and never finished the inside of the cabinet door but hey, gotta give a guy a break.

Invited a bunch of friends over to watch the hurt locker, they were blown away!!!


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## chrapladm (Jun 17, 2009)

Pretty amazing end results. Which way is the horn facing of the THT?

And thanks for the false wall pics. I was just asking Professor where I could see some pics so I can learn how to access behind the wall.


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

The tuba faces to the right. One of my mains sits 6" in front of it but based on my REW measurents it doesn't affect it at all.

It's hard to see the framing on my false wall but it's only those two floor to ceiling 2x4 and a short one to make sure the screen doesn't sag (but it's made of oak so I doubt that it will it's very dimensionally stable ---if you live somewhere with varying humidity I would suggest it. 

The screen frame is screwed between the two bys (recessed about an 1/2 inch) the velevet border has little blocks screwed to the back,also mounted to the two bys so it sits slightly in front of the screen and a little recessed from the false wall panels. Again, they are just Velcro'd to the studs. If I had to do it over I would have made the top and bottom pieces run wall to wall and then have the side pieces fit in between them. It's difficult sometimes to get the full height sides off without scuffing the ceiling. 

Comprende?
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## chrapladm (Jun 17, 2009)

Crystal!!

I've got some time before I start my home theater build but I have started to write all the final details down according to others advice and trial/errors. What were the dimensions of your room again?


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Writing things down will really help make it go smoothly. My final dimensions are 10' 7" x 24' 3". There is another 2' behind the false wall. If you can manage it give yourself a little more room behind the false wall. Mine is a little cramped but it's not like I'm going to spend a bunch of time back there. 

Athother details and sources

Seymour AT screen material- awesome stuff! It is virtually flat 
guilford of main fabric for FW and panels that bpape sells at a great price
rockwool insulation for treatments
all cables and wall plates from mono price
dimmers and light trims from westade electric.com
Royal III black velvet from Joann fabrics
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## chrapladm (Jun 17, 2009)

With only 2 ft behind your wall does your sub stick out of the wall?

My sub dimensions are 36" x 36" x 24" and mine will be laying on its side due to the woofer I chose. So in other words it will be 24" tall. So I figured I would make a 3ft and whatever inches so that the tuba was behind the wall. 

And sorry for my ignorance but I thought that when building a wall for the screen that the wall had to be slightly curved? I have no idea its just what I have seen from one other person.


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

My sub is only 20 something inches wide I think 21" total. You can build it any size you want. Not sure why you would have to put it on it's side? What driver are you using? I used the inexpensive Dayton dvc that the plans show. 

Your false wall can be any shape you want. I've seen curved screens but not a curved wall. It will be difficult to stretch the fabric on a curved surface. Not impossible but definitely more involved.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## slm72 (Feb 4, 2010)

Looks awesome! Makes me anxious to get mine finished. I'm taking your advise and I'm going to replace all the florescent lights with cans. My room is taped and painted, have to work this weekend but will be back at it next weekend to tackle the ceiling. Thanks for the inspiration.


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## chrapladm (Jun 17, 2009)

Dayton HF driver for its improved lower hz capabilities below the horn hz. sub 20hz performance.

But the driver needs to be down firing due to sag or something. So thats why mine will be laying on its side.


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

slm72 said:


> Looks awesome! Makes me anxious to get mine finished. I'm taking your advise and I'm going to replace all the florescent lights with cans. My room is taped and painted, have to work this weekend but will be back at it next weekend to tackle the ceiling. Thanks for the inspiration.


You will be soo much happier with can lights on dimmers. Let me know if you want the spacers. Do you have any idea on how many lights and there spacing? mine are approximately 4' on center. I used 5" cans. They look less insdustrial than the 6" and they are much cheaper than the 4" ones.


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## tsaelee (Feb 28, 2010)

Looking very good. Is that 8500UB hanging from the ceiling?


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Be very very careful to make sure you isolation your AV circuits from the circuits with those dimmers on them (unless they're electronic and not mechanical dimmers). Mechanical dimmers are notorious for electrical noise which can cause hum in audio and hum bars in video.

Bryan


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## ironglen (Mar 4, 2009)

That's a good point about the dimmers, the lutron dimmers he's using (along with the maestro line) are electronic rather than mechanical. I just bought an infrared one and installed it- very easy and very nice:T Can't wait until I get a harmony remote!


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Good deal. I missed that part. Electronic dimmers should be fine.

Bryan


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## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

Yeah, I am using the "el chepo" low profile mount from mono price I think. I want to say it was $60, maybe $80. Plenty sturdy. Surprisingly enough, the mount doesn't shake when monted to the isoolated ceiling and playing massive bass.


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