# New to BFD need help



## Bori (Jan 3, 2008)

I just set up BFD. Everything is connected and volume level is set. I have already ran REW and produced a graph. I also had the BFD in bypass mode when setting volume level on the receiver. During all this time the save led is flashing is this ok? When I am done setting the volume level should I disengage the bypass? Do I need to clear the filters on the BFD before I start? How do I do this and how do I input the filters manually? One other question I had my graph as flat as possible before I used BFD. When adding the filters do I adjust the volume on the subs before or after the filters are added?


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## brucek (Apr 11, 2006)

> During all this time the save led is flashing is this ok?


Yep.



> When I am done setting the volume level should I disengage the bypass?


Yeah, at that point it is a good idea to select the program number you'll be using (i.e. program 5), and go through each filter and turn it to OFF mode.



> Do I need to clear the filters on the BFD before I start? How do I do this and how do I input the filters manually?


Yeah, it's a good idea to turn the filters to OFF to start. I'll let you download and read the manual on how to use the front panel. 



> When adding the filters do I adjust the volume on the subs before or after the filters are added?


Both. You should have the speaker levels all set before equalization, and then trim the sub as needed after EQ.

burcek


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## Bori (Jan 3, 2008)

The reason I ask about adjusting the volume on the subs before the filters is my graph changes when the volume is changed on the subs. I went from the 1st graph to the 2nd graph is this normal?


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## Bori (Jan 3, 2008)

I figured out how to apply to turn off and apply the filters. I have 1 filter going on channel 1. The led is solid and the graph is shown below. Let me know if I need to add anything else to improve the graph.


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## brucek (Apr 11, 2006)

> I went from the 1st graph to the 2nd graph is this normal?


If you're looking to compare two graphs, please use the same scale on each, and better yet place them on the same plot.



> Let me know if I need to add anything else to improve the graph.


Need to see the waterfall (using the standard scaling of Vertical graph axis of (45dB - 105dB) and the Horizontal graph axis of (15Hz - 200Hz))


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## Bori (Jan 3, 2008)

Will the BFD save light continue the blink as long as the unit is on? Even after everything has been saved and set up. By the way when should I notice a HUM? I don't think mine is humming yet, maybe a got lucky.


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

The blinking Save light means it's asking you to save your settings. Push the button to save the settings. If not, when you turn the BFD off the settings will be lost.

Regards,
Wayne


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## Bori (Jan 3, 2008)

This is the graph I got after applying two filters. By the way I still can not get rid of the flashing save light. I pressed it and it still blinks.


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

Press it twice to save - sorry 'bout that (you can tell it's been a while since I fiddled with my BFD!)

Regards,
Wayne


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## Bori (Jan 3, 2008)

How does this graph look? Is there anything I need to improve?


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## Bori (Jan 3, 2008)

Can someone please look at my graph and see if I need to improve anything?


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## weverb (Aug 15, 2008)

What happens to that major hump at 80Hz when your highs are on?


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## Bori (Jan 3, 2008)

weverb said:


> What happens to that major hump at 80Hz when your highs are on?


It pretty much stays the same. What do I need to do for the hump and the 2 dips before that?


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## brucek (Apr 11, 2006)

> What do I need to do for the hump and the 2 dips before that?


The two dips don't even qualify as dips....... it's perfect.

The peak at 75Hz can't be evaluated until the mains are added and the subs phase adjusted to obtain the smoothest response. If the peak is gone at 75Hz at that point, you're done..

brucek


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## Bori (Jan 3, 2008)

Ok I added the mains and adjusted the phase on the 3.3 Turbos and MBM-12s. I could not get the dip to go away until I changed the XO on the Dual MBM-12s to 70hz. Now I get this graph. Is it ok to change the XO to 70hz on the MBMs? The XO on the Dual 3.3 turbos are set to 45hz and the Dual MBMs are set to 70hz. The receiver XO is set to 80Hz.


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## brucek (Apr 11, 2006)

> Is it ok to change the XO to 70hz on the MBMs?


Yeah, I see no problem if it integrates with the mains OK, but you haven't shown us the sub(s) plus mains graph yet.......

brucek


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## Bori (Jan 3, 2008)

The graph above is the subs + mains.


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## brucek (Apr 11, 2006)

Oh, that changes things. I guess you like bass eh?

You've got some work to do then.

The dip at 100-120 is too deep, and the peak at 75 will have to come down.

brucek


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## Bori (Jan 3, 2008)

How do I fix the dip at 100-120hz?


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## brucek (Apr 11, 2006)

You have the level of your mains with respect to the sub a bit low, so it's hard to see what's going on.

Usually positioning is the best way to fix a dip....

brucek


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## Bori (Jan 3, 2008)

Changing the position of the mains?


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## weverb (Aug 15, 2008)

Bori,

When you set-up your subs, what level did you set them to compared to your mains? Did you do your mains to 75dB and the subs combined (all four) to 75dB or did you set them "hot" by a certain amount?

brucek meant you can fix a dip in the subs with moving the subs around.


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## Bori (Jan 3, 2008)

weverb said:


> Bori,
> 
> When you set-up your subs, what level did you set them to compared to your mains? Did you do your mains to 75dB and the subs combined (all four) to 75dB or did you set them "hot" by a certain amount?
> 
> brucek meant you can fix a dip in the subs with moving the subs around.


Is that the only way to fix the dip? Because I am very limited on where I could move 4 subs. I believe all four combined read 78 to 79dbs on the spl.


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## weverb (Aug 15, 2008)

Bori said:


> Is that the only way to fix the dip? Because I am very limited on where I could move 4 subs. I believe all four combined read 78 to 79dbs on the spl.


I guess another way to possibly fix it is to lower your target to run through the bottom of your dip (since it is small) and eq the rest down. You may have to readjust the volume knobs on the back of the subs to get them back to 75dB after the filters are applied. But the dip at 65Hz is probably within 2dB of your target and I would not worry about it.

The major dip that brucek is talking about at 100-120Hz may be something with the room. You need to play with moving the MBM's around, their phase, and xo with the mains to try and eliminate it.


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## Bori (Jan 3, 2008)

I hope this did the job. I moved both MBMs to the same side of the room. Now most of the dips are gone and the huge dip on the 100 to 120hz looks a lot better. Tell me what you think if I am done now? I know the subs are a little hot but I love bass.:jump:


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## weverb (Aug 15, 2008)

Looks better. Can you show us a little more of the highs? Maybe graph out to like 2kHz. It looks like you are running way too hot. Then again, if it sounds good to you, that's what matters the most.


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## Bori (Jan 3, 2008)

Here you go


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## weverb (Aug 15, 2008)

Your highs still stop at 200Hz. Try measuring them out to 2kHz. so we can see their trend compared to the subs. It looks like you have a 20dB difference so far!


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## Bori (Jan 3, 2008)

How do I measure them out to 2k?


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## weverb (Aug 15, 2008)

Make sure both the highs and subs are on/connected. In the measurement screen, change the 200Hz. value to 2,000Hz.


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## Bori (Jan 3, 2008)

Here you go.


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## weverb (Aug 15, 2008)

Interesting! It looks like you have a 10dB variance in your highs also. I am curious to hear what others think.


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## Bori (Jan 3, 2008)

What can I do to resolve this?


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## Bori (Jan 3, 2008)

How does this graph look without any filters. Do I need to do anything or is it good like this?


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## weverb (Aug 15, 2008)

Looks like you can raise your target line about 2dB and then just lower the 85-100Hz. section a little. The back end looks really good. Must be nice to be able to go lower than 15Hz.! :bigsmile:


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## Bori (Jan 3, 2008)

Ok I was able to get my subs flat down to 14hz. I have a question about the BFD. I ran audyessy first then I set the level on the BFD. I lowered the LFE on the receiver to -15 which its the lowest setting. Why is it when I turn the volume to a couple dbs above listening level I get the clipping light to flash or stay on during very strong bass scenes in WOWs?

1st graph subs only
2nd graph subs and mains.


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## weverb (Aug 15, 2008)

Graphs look good. :bigsmile: 14Hz must be nice!

What setting do you have on the back of the BFD (-10dB or +4dB)?


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## Bori (Jan 3, 2008)

-10 is set on the back. The first time I used the BFD and set up I did not have that issue lights always stayed green. I could set the receiver level at -14 or -12 and would not get any clipping light to show up. Just wondering what could of changed? I am thinking the first time I used the BFD I had my subs in 18hz mode instead of the 25hz mode now. Maybe Audyessy did something where I was able to run the volume higher on the receiver without any clipping. I know I have read that its ok to get a flashing red light just as long as it does not stay on correct?


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## weverb (Aug 15, 2008)

Bori said:


> I know I have read that its ok to get a flashing red light just as long as it does not stay on correct?


That's my understanding. Then again, my clip lights never come on at all. I am wondering if Audyssey is boosting anything?


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## Bori (Jan 3, 2008)

weverb said:


> That's my understanding. Then again, my clip lights never come on at all. I am wondering if Audyssey is boosting anything?


Thats the way mine was now I cant get it like that anymore.


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