# Painting/Finishing speakers



## Zeitgeist (Apr 4, 2009)

I have 3 subs and a speaker (Center channel) that I need to either finish - or refinish. Since they've always been hidden, I've never paid much attention to their appearance.

I wanted to see what others do when it comes to paint or "durable finishes' - so not veneers or stains.

When you build a speaker - what paint or material do you use? And would you use it again on future builds? 
a) spray primer and spray paint?
b) spray on paint via paint hopper/via compressor, etc
c) Rolled or brushed on paint (latex or oil)
d) roll on duratex?
e) spray on duratex?
f) some other epoxy based coating?
g) carpet or other glued on material?

I'm opting towards buying some duratex - but just wanted to see if that was the finish of choice for others who want a black durable coat. I wish I could find it locally, but seems to be $50/gallon + shipping..


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

I've done heavy coats of rattle can paints then sanded smooth and clear coated also i've used fiberglass resin, sanded it smooth then shot it with rattle cans on this next project i'm gonna have a buddy shoot on some epoxy primer and then whatever color i choose (the color is still for the wife to decide:rolleyesno.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

Sorry i meant to ask what kind of wood are you using? Mine have all been MDF.


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## Zeitgeist (Apr 4, 2009)

All MDF here too..


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## fusseli (May 1, 2007)

How durable do you mean by durable? The only paint finish I've done was gloss black spraypaint, wet sanded a few times and repeat (on The Tower Sub). Doing that with enough perservearance and patience gets pretty close to the "piano black" finish on store bought boxes. Also, smearing a woodglue + water mixture into the cut our routed edges of the MDF helps immensely on sealing it up so it doesn't sponge up the paint like no tomorrow. Just have to let the glue mixture dry and then sand it smooth.

I haven't tried it, but I would guess that textured paint would be pretty tough also? I picture the texture being more resistant to visible scratches and such.


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## Zeitgeist (Apr 4, 2009)

Hmm.. Trying to think of how to define durable. Little more resistant to scratches and "wear" from being moved around?

Since the boxes I've been building tend to be big - looking for a finish that gives a little protection. Not a whole lot - just a surface a little tougher than MDF - since MDF is really relatively soft.

My understanding is that DuraTex and other epoxy type finishes offer more durability - than just enamel/latex paints. I've heard of DuraTex being compared to truck bed liner coatings - I'm not sure how accurate that is or not.


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## Stroh (Sep 14, 2010)

You said "just a surface a little tougher than MDF", to me a first thought is anything outside of a fiberglass coating will not hide the MDF softness. But I think I may have just misundterstood. I am going to jump into my fist DIY this weekend and during the process found this little article about painting MDF. It may help or it may not be what you are looking for at all but here is the link. http://shoryuken.com/f177/how-paint-mdf-mirror-finish-worklog-191692/


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## Zeitgeist (Apr 4, 2009)

That's a good article on painting MDF if you're looking for a glossy finish. I've seen lots of stuff out there on getting a piano finish - or other glossy finishes..


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

I wonder what it would cost to have them Gel coated:scratch:. That would be an awesome finish.:T


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## Zeitgeist (Apr 4, 2009)

Gel coated would be sweet! haha.


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## 1Michael (Nov 2, 2006)

Try Poly on the raw MDF. It looks quite interesting...


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## kadijk (Jan 23, 2011)

I would say that any coating on mdf has to be preceded by an appropriate primer. The one thing mdf does to liquids Is absorb. One person I read about used a version of spray on bedliner. I wonder if it comes in a spray bomb size from a hardware store. That would be an almost indestructible finish and easy to wipe down. My tendency would be to go very flat too, not glossy. I wouldn't want any extra reflection at the front screen area.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

Good call on not wanting a glossy surface do to it possibly causing reflection off the screen, Personally i'd still much rather have a high shine finish. JMO.:T


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## Zeitgeist (Apr 4, 2009)

kadijk said:


> I would say that any coating on mdf has to be preceded by an appropriate primer. The one thing mdf does to liquids Is absorb. One person I read about used a version of spray on bedliner. I wonder if it comes in a spray bomb size from a hardware store. That would be an almost indestructible finish and easy to wipe down. My tendency would be to go very flat too, not glossy. I wouldn't want any extra reflection at the front screen area.


I've read that Duratex says "no primer needed".. but I know how much MDF just sucks up any liquid. Agree primer makes sense.

I've read mixed things about durability of different bedliner coatings. Seems like duratex might be best bet - since it's intended for speakers and seems on par with the cheaper bedliner coatings anyway.


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## Zeitgeist (Apr 4, 2009)

bambino said:


> Good call on not wanting a glossy surface do to it possibly causing reflection off the screen, Personally i'd still much rather have a high shine finish. JMO.:T


I want my speakers to be hidden and heard... not seen


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

Zeitgeist said:


> I want my speakers to be hidden and heard... not seen


I'm just the opposite, i'm a cosmetic kind of guy so to me they would have to look as good as they sound. If i were to just hide them away i wouldn't even bother with the cost of a finish or i may just rattle can them with 99cent primer.

I agree though if finishing them for any reason MDF does need a good seal before it's finished or there will be flat spots.


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## Zeitgeist (Apr 4, 2009)

haha. Thats funny.

Mine are going to be hidden behnid GOM fabric... and I'm trying to stay motivated to finish them... rather than leave them as raw MDF!!

I'm getting tired of 99 cent spray cans....... never seems to cover as much as I think a can should cover. 

Maybe need to look for some flat enamel canned paint......and roll it on --- as a backup to a durable coating.

I'd love to build a nice pair of cherry speakers (not hidden in HT) --- with some good quality wood... but I think that's far down on my to do list.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

What about just cheap regular oil based primer that comes in gallons? You could just roll it on and i'd bet the MDF would soak it up enough that you wouldn't be able to tell it was rolled on and it would be quick cheap and easy.:T


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## kadijk (Jan 23, 2011)

Yup to the cheap primer. Although today's paint technology has made oil based a thing of the past. What can be done though is get the primer tinted so that it has the color in it. And sealing the mdf with something is a good idea to prevent any deterioration over time due to things like humidity.


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## fusseli (May 1, 2007)

roll on a primer too thick and I'd think sanding would be necessary to get the surface smooth again before color/enamel. Sanding at a fine grit is a good idea anyways though.

Agreed, sealing the MDF is a must for any kind of durability. Anyone who's seen the $0.99 cans of spraypaint on bare MDF knows this.


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## brandon75173 (Dec 13, 2009)

fusseli said:


> How durable do you mean by durable? The only paint finish I've done was gloss black spraypaint, wet sanded a few times and repeat (on The Tower Sub). Doing that with enough perservearance and patience gets pretty close to the "piano black" finish on store bought boxes. Also, smearing a woodglue + water mixture into the cut our routed edges of the MDF helps immensely on sealing it up so it doesn't sponge up the paint like no tomorrow. Just have to let the glue mixture dry and then sand it smooth.
> 
> I haven't tried it, but I would guess that textured paint would be pretty tough also? I picture the texture being more resistant to visible scratches and such.


Very handy post right there. That is an issue that I, and I am sure many others, have encountered. I am about to start another build and was pondering this issue today. Thanks!


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## Jstslamd (Nov 30, 2010)

I see that people are having issues with painting mdf. There is a simple solution to this problem. You can use a filler material(I.e. Autobody filler, spackle or a wood filler) as you usually would to fill the screw hole and end grain. After that is all smoothed out use an Autobody urethane primer surfacer on the mdf via Autobody spray gun. If you do not know how to spray something like this you could take your boxes to any local bodyshop and they will probably put them in primer for probably not much money. I know this method work as I have been an Autobody painter for over 10 years and also briefly painted high end signs for casino and hotels. If their is anyone in the south jersey area that needs any help with this I would be more than happy to help them out. Just pm me for help


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

Out of curiousity. Wouldn't just using an Epoxy based autobody primer do the trick as opposed to going to the trouble of coating with a filler then sanding it smooth?:dontknow:


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## 1Michael (Nov 2, 2006)

Those of us that have been around awhile just use a mixture of H2O and glue...


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## Jstslamd (Nov 30, 2010)

Only coat in small spot like wood putter over any holes,imperfections and side grain to either smooth the holes over or fill the grain so that the ends dot suck up the primer. Yes you can use and epoxy primer but the urethane high build is thicker and will take less coats. Epoxy primers have different properties that have to do with adhesion and protection to metal.


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## Jstslamd (Nov 30, 2010)

1Michael said:


> Those of us that have been around awhile just use a mixture of H2O and glue...


Are you using this mixture to fill the end grain ?


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## 1Michael (Nov 2, 2006)

Yup...


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## Jstslamd (Nov 30, 2010)

That will work well too.


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