# Heavenly's Home Theater



## heavenly (Mar 21, 2008)

Still doing Google Sketchups of the room. 
Looking for Suggestions.
The room is 23' 9" X 12' 6"
The screen is 105" viewable

..Thanks


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

I'd move the seats together and slide them to one side so you only have 1 really bad seat in each row instead of 2 and you'll have 2 prime seats in each row that are closer to center viewing and listening.

Bryan


----------



## Dbeistel (Dec 31, 2006)

I hope I'm not hijacking this thread: but my HT is almost identical to Heavenl's theater. I will be setting up a 7.1 system and I have Def Tech BPX surrounds that are bipolar; I need to know if I could mount these speakers on the sloped ceiling between rows 1 and 2; or should I mount them on the knee wall between rows 1 and 2; or behind row 2. The speakers will fire front to back and at a slight downward angle.


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

On the angled ceiling. On the knee wall will be too low for proper surround field development in a home theater application.

Bryan


----------



## Dbeistel (Dec 31, 2006)

bpape said:


> On the angled ceiling. On the knee wall will be too low for proper surround field development in a home theater application.
> 
> Bryan


Bryan do I need to place them in between the the rows of seats or behind the second row; remember they are bipolar speakers. I would think between the 2 rows so they will envelop the 1 and 2nd row.


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Depends on your goals. If you want the optimal experience for the front row at the expense of the 2nd, then put them beside the first row. If you're willing to make a compromise in the front to do better for the 2nd row, then use them between.

Bryan


----------



## Dbeistel (Dec 31, 2006)

bpape said:


> Depends on your goals. If you want the optimal experience for the front row at the expense of the 2nd, then put them beside the first row. If you're willing to make a compromise in the front to do better for the 2nd row, then use them between.
> 
> Bryan


Decisions, decisions, I was thinking between due to most speaker placement diagrams show beside or 110 degrees behind


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Correct - 90-100/120 degrees for side surrounds. The idea behind dipoles to the side is to not be able to localize them and help provide that spooky 'all around you' effect and no definite point in front to rear pans.

In between will still give you good pans and make the speakers in a 'less wrong' position for the 2nd row. In any case, you'll definitely want them up higher to minimize the effect.

A lot depends on how you'll use the room. If most of the time you're watching movies it's just the front row and the rear is for 'kid overflow for parties' or watching the superbowl/final four, etc., then it's not a biggie for the back row. 

Bryan


----------



## heavenly (Mar 21, 2008)

Thanks for the suggestion regarding the seats Bryan. I was thinking about moving the seats to one side as well, but was concerned with the ceiling height on the sides. Thought it will be easier if the aisle was in the middle where the ceiling is 9' high. The lowest point on the sloped ceiling is only 4'2" high. So either I have to make the riser too small or people will have to crouch a little to get to the first row.

What do you think?.


----------



## heavenly (Mar 21, 2008)

Dan,
Please dont feel that you are highjacking the thread. Soon I need to think about these things as well, so its all good discussions. But Im just curious.. Can you upload a few pictures of your HT so I see how you have your seating, riser, screen etc are done?.
Thanks


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Well, at 4'2", that's going to be pretty tough to do. What is the difference in width between the room and the total of the seats? IOW, how much aisle space is there?

Another potential option is to just have 7 seats - 3 in front and 4 in rear.

Bryan


----------



## Dbeistel (Dec 31, 2006)

Sana, I'm in the planning stage of my HT; I needed to know the best speaker placement in order to run my wiring. I was going to run 3 seats 1st row and 4 seats in the 2nd row. I may need to switch that around do to the riser for the second row. I also have to think about the surround speaker on the ceiling and how far they intrude into the walking area. I'll see if I have any pictures of my room before I get started.


----------



## heavenly (Mar 21, 2008)

The main problem is the door is behind the seats and it opens inwards because of the stairs. Thats the reason for the 3 feet of space behind the riser. If I put the seats to one side, I can have 3 seats in the front row and 2 seats in the 2nd row so there is walking space. The room width is 12'. An average hometheater seat is 2.5 feet so a 3 seater will be almost 8 feet leaving 4 feet for aisle space. A 4 seater will be 10 feet leaving 2 feet for aisle space.


----------



## Dbeistel (Dec 31, 2006)

heavenly said:


> The main problem is the door is behind the seats and it opens inwards because of the stairs. Thats the reason for the 3 feet of space behind the riser. If I put the seats to one side, I can have 3 seats in the front row and 2 seats in the 2nd row so there is walking space. The room width is 12'. An average hometheater seat is 2.5 feet so a 3 seater will be almost 8 feet leaving 4 feet for aisle space. A 4 seater will be 10 feet leaving 2 feet for aisle space.


What about 3 seats in the 1st and 3 seats in the 2nd. That way you may be able to center the 2 rows or off set them to one side allowing mor room for the door and aisle.


----------



## heavenly (Mar 21, 2008)

Thats exactly what I was working on for the last hour. 
This way I could put overflow chairs along the leftside wall.
Let me know how it looks.


----------



## Dbeistel (Dec 31, 2006)

heavenly said:


> Thats exactly what I was working on for the last hour.
> This way I could put overflow chairs along the leftside wall.
> Let me know how it looks.


Can you move the chairs to the middle any. You will still need to bend down to get in the chairs next to the wall unless your are short or a child


----------



## heavenly (Mar 21, 2008)

Yes, I should be able to move the chairs a feet to the middle..


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

With 4' of additional width at 3 seats per row, that should be MORE than enough to avoid the angle issue I'd think. Hard to figure without knowing the pitch of the roofline. Assuming 12 on 12 (45 degrees), by the time you got over 4', you'd also be up 4' or 8'2".

Bryan


----------



## heavenly (Mar 21, 2008)

Here is a picture that shows the roofline and the pitch.


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Looks like 12 on 12 to me - or very very close.

Bryan


----------



## Dbeistel (Dec 31, 2006)

heavenly said:


> Here is a picture that shows the roofline and the pitch.


When I saw that drawing I asked myself how did you get my drawing LOL. That is almost identical to my room except my Knee walls are 5' tall and my room width is 168" and my slope is 45 degrees


----------



## Longrange10x (Dec 7, 2009)

Your theater is close to mine as well. I'll be watching along with Dbeistel and asking questions.

Bryan - How does the slope of ceiling like this affect room acoustics and what would your recomendations be for room treatments? 

Thanks,
Andy


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

The slope tends to focus more reflections down at you. The surfaces need to be treated. With what depends on DIY or purchased. 2" 703 would work OK. If you want pre-fab, our 242 panels would be the choice.

Bryan


----------



## Longrange10x (Dec 7, 2009)

Thanks Bryan, 

Which would you recomend? Treat the entire slope and ceiling, the 1st and 2nd reflection points or something else?

Andy


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

I don't know the budget. In order:

Broadband bass control

Side wall reflections

Angled ceiling

Rear Wall

Bryan
Angled ceiling


----------



## Dbeistel (Dec 31, 2006)

bpape said:


> I don't know the budget. In order:
> 
> Broadband bass control
> 
> ...


Bryan would room kit 4 work


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Kit 4 would be OK but not necessarily optimal. Kit 4 but replacing the single Monster with either 2 Monsters or a pair of 244's would be a better solution.

Seriously though, on the flat and slant sides, you'll basically need a minimum o 2 panels each - so that's 8 to do 2 on each flat and each slant. I'd do 244's in the corners and get a few more of those.

Bryan


----------



## Dbeistel (Dec 31, 2006)

Here is what I'm working with; hope this helps you guys

View attachment Back to front 2.pdf


----------



## bbieger (Sep 15, 2009)

105" screen and 12' room seems like a tight fit for your front speakers...unless your going to do an AT screen


----------



## ericld (Dec 19, 2009)

Have you thought about putting the seats in the middle, and giving them a slight arc. This would add some room on the sides, and help "face" the chair at the screen. You might even be able to go to 4 across.


----------



## PeterG (Dec 21, 2009)

The roof on an angle is cool, give the aspect of a Chalet, kinda intimate, but I agreed with some of the guys that say that you'll lose some of the surround aspect. But still, its gona be kick . I would watch the superbowl in that!


----------



## Dbeistel (Dec 31, 2006)

heavenly said:


> Still doing Google Sketchups of the room.
> Looking for Suggestions.
> The room is 23' 9" X 12' 6"
> The screen is 105" viewable
> ...


Brian,
I need to run my wiring and would like to know where to place my sub/s in the the front on the stage. My room is similar to Sana's room but my room is 14' wide. I will also have 2 floor standing speakers that will be on the stage. Do I need to put the sub/s in the corners or 1/3 from the side walls.


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Stay away from the corners if possible. Ideally, we'd like to see 1 dead center front and 1 dead center rear of the room if doable. If not, and avoiding corners, you'll be very limited as to how much you can move the subs around to tune things - which you'll want to do.

Bryan


----------



## Dbeistel (Dec 31, 2006)

bpape said:


> Stay away from the corners if possible. Ideally, we'd like to see 1 dead center front and 1 dead center rear of the room if doable. If not, and avoiding corners, you'll be very limited as to how much you can move the subs around to tune things - which you'll want to do.
> 
> Bryan


Brian,

If I decide to do 2 subs will both subs be OK up front or do they need to be oppisite, also I can wire the room for multiple sub locations.


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Wiring for multiple options is always a good idea. 

1 front and 1 rear (centered) is a theoretically good place to be and to help minimize some modal issues. Many people can't do that and end up with both up front. It's workable, just not as flexible given all the rest of the stuff up in front to work around.

Bryan


----------



## Dbeistel (Dec 31, 2006)

Bryan,
Would I benefit if I use the poly batting and fabric wall technique on the front and knee walls. I plan on useing double layers of 5/8 DW and GG. My knee walls are 5' high and 16' long. Also i will use Acustical panels on the slope ceilings .


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Batting by itself is not thick nor dense enough to do much of anything. I'd want at least 2" on the front wall and an absolutely minimum of 1" 3lb on the side walls.

Bryan


----------



## Dbeistel (Dec 31, 2006)

bpape said:


> Batting by itself is not thick nor dense enough to do much of anything. I'd want at least 2" on the front wall and an absolutely minimum of 1" 3lb on the side walls.
> 
> Bryan


Do you have a thread on how people put a fabric wall up, I can't find a detailed article. I think it should be fairly easy with some good planing. Do you still have the GOM available.


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

I have the GOM - no problem. There are a ton of threads but many are on that other site that we can't link to... It's really just putting up firring strips so you have something to staple the cloth to. Fill between the firring with absorption. Staple the cloth and trim the edges.

Bryan


----------



## Dbeistel (Dec 31, 2006)

bpape said:


> I have the GOM - no problem. There are a ton of threads but many are on that other site that we can't link to... It's really just putting up firring strips so you have something to staple the cloth to. Fill between the firring with absorption. Staple the cloth and trim the edges.
> 
> Bryan


Sorry for all the questions I've seen post on linacoustics how would this ply into the fabric wall. Do you put this over 2 layers of DW and the batting on top of the linacoustics and finally the fabric.


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Linacoustic is OK. It's usually a lighter density and you have to buy it in full rolls. Many times, just getting 703 is cheaper as you can buy more just what you need.

The batting on the upper portion of the walls, I'm not a big fan of personally. I think it sucks the life out of the room in the high end and kills the surround field quite a bit. I prefer just drywall up high with cloth over a gap. The other option is to build QRD diffusers for the upper walls and use 703/Linacoustic down low.

In either case, you'll still need a good amount of broadband bass control in the room.

Bryan


----------



## heavenly (Mar 21, 2008)

Posting updated sketchups. As always suggestions and comments are welcome..


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Very nice. I really need to sit down and learn sketchup MUCH better.

Bryan


----------



## Dbeistel (Dec 31, 2006)

heavenly said:


> Posting updated sketchups. As always suggestions and comments are welcome..


Very nice indeed like I said earlier your room is shape like mine. I'm taking my sweet time, I have installed most of my conduit and smurf tube; I have also built my soffet for my projector.


----------



## heavenly (Mar 21, 2008)

Dan,
I havent started mine yet. Still in the dreaming stages. Can you post some pictures of your progress so I can get some inspiration?. 
Thanks


----------



## moggieuk (Mar 26, 2008)

That is the best Sketchup render I've ever seen! Are you using the 'pro' version? The design is excellent too..


----------



## heavenly (Mar 21, 2008)

Thanks Moggie, Im using the free version of Sketchup, but used the IDX Renditioner Express Free version for the lighting. The lighting makes a big difference in presentation.


----------



## Dbeistel (Dec 31, 2006)

Sana when i get back in town this week I take some pictures and post.


----------



## qsnstores (Mar 1, 2010)

Great sketchups


----------



## ridecolby (Oct 21, 2009)

If your room looks nearly as good as these renderings you will be very happy. Nice design and I like the lighting.


----------



## spartanstew (May 7, 2009)

Very nice.

Just saw this thread and was going to mention the bar with stools behind the rear row, but now I see you have that incorporated into the latest drawing. 

The only thing I might change based on the latest rendering is the two level riser. I would just make it all the same height with a step(s). It can be awkward getting in and out of a seat that's elevated like the pics show.


----------



## Dbeistel (Dec 31, 2006)

bpape said:


> On the angled ceiling. On the knee wall will be too low for proper surround field development in a home theater application.
> 
> Bryan


Bryan here we go again I'm trying to get past the WF on this room. I know you suggested putting my bipolar speakers on the angled ceiling, my question is do I place the speakers close to the top of the angled ceiling or half way up the angled ceiling or would it sound any better if I put the bipolars overhead on the flat part of the ceiling

Thanks in advance for your help.


----------



## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Normal surround position is approx 6.5' off the floor. Wherever that falls (or close) on the angle would be a good place. 

Bryan


----------



## sparkymt (May 19, 2010)

Those sketchups were quite amazing. I've been playing around with sketchup for about three weeks now, and after seeing yours, I have a lot to learn! Thanks for setting the bar high.

Jon


----------

