# DIY Replacement for No Rez?



## django1 (Jan 28, 2009)

I'm sold on the usefulness of No Rez but find that the stuff is grossly over priced for what it is, especially when I add shipping, duties and taxes. 

Basically we are talking about some open cell foam adhered to some kind of heavy vinyl reminiscent of self adhesive floor tiles. Anybody attempt to make their own? It can't be rocket science...

A picture of the real stuff, left top:


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## dvenardos (Sep 27, 2008)

I am looking for threads on it, but the standard DIY option is vinyl peel and stick floor tile covered with high density foam or carpet padding.
This has also been recommended by Danny if you aren't going with his no-rez.

edit: found a suggestion for grace ice and water shield. Since no-rez is asphault and vinyl composite that might be nice under the the vinyl floor tile.


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## django1 (Jan 28, 2009)

Is the asphalt used for it's "rubbery" qualities?

I have some of this lying around and was wondering about it.


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## dvenardos (Sep 27, 2008)

I am not sure why Danny used asphalt in the mix when designing no rez. :scratchchin:
Since I am the only guy responding, you might get a better response over on AC or DIYAudio as there are a lot more DIYers over there...


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## woofersus (May 6, 2008)

The most important quality of that layer is its high density. It can't mass-load the cabinet walls if it is light and porous. The flexibility is also important because you almost always have to squeeze the stuff through a hole, and sometimes you're dealing with curved cabinet walls too. That waterproofing floor sealer could work if you can apply it thick enough to have some weight to it I suppose.


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## laserman (Jun 9, 2006)

*DIY alternatives*

Django1,

The picture you posted is actually No-Rez (the one with the black face and single layer of barrier material) and Black Hole 5 (the one with the white surface and double layer of barrier material).

Two of those alternatives to the barrier layer are peel and stick floor tiles and a material known as Ice-and Water Shield. Ice Shield is normally used as a roofing material, but is essentially the same material as commercial mats (Dynamat or Road Kill), except that it incorporates an asphalt material for water proofing. Ice-Shield is much cheaper than the other commercial mats, up to 80% less. It has to be bought in large amounts, unless you contact a roofer and ask if you can purchase a small leftover roll like I did. Ice-Shield also has to be aired out for a couple of days after installation before you can put the foam layer on. For the foam layer, you should be able to purchase that at your local fabric store and use a spray on adhesive to affix it to the barrier layer.

I have experimented with the DIY version and found them to be acceptable in general application, but for subwoofers or where the woofer sections are in their own compartments Black Hole 5 was superior. 

Good luck with your project.
L


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## dvenardos (Sep 27, 2008)

So if the bottom layer is for mass loading and the foam is for sound absorption, then probably vinyl tile or ice and water shield and some roxul or ultratouch cut in half might be the best bet.


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## django1 (Jan 28, 2009)

Thanks for the replies!

I can get something quite similar to the Ice Shield in small rolls .









I'm not too clear on what "mass loaded" means? Is it just adding mass to the interior walls of the enclosure? 

If I'm looking for "mass" and "density" why not use cement backer board or ceramic tile?


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## Steve_Vai_rules (Jun 22, 2010)

it would be a lot of work to apply cement backer or ceramic tile in those usually small spaces and to do it around bracing makes that even more challenging. well add to that curved structures... my 2 cents as to why non-flexible solutions aren't used.


Matt


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## TooManyToys (Jun 2, 2008)

Stephen,

Your not looking for “mass”, per say, your looking for a viscous material of weight to dampen the vibrations of the cabinet. IMO, flooring tile (ceramic, vinyl, etc) ain’t what I’d be using. The product you highlighted isn’t bad.

NoRez is a hard act to follow. Not sure if McMaster is up there, but here is a similar product without adhesive:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#sound-dampers/=91cg1f Then page 3495

Of the cabinets I’ve done (Ref 1,100,and 3) the 1 and 100 I believe needs the mass loaded vinyl; the 3 does not.

The second one down on page 3497 is a adhesive lined mass dampener. A layer of foam could be adhered to it for DIY.

Of course if money is no object, then the last one on this page with some spray adhesive might be the ticket:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#sound-dampers/=91cg1f


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## dvenardos (Sep 27, 2008)

Have you seen Danny's sandbox subwoofer box design? That is basically the idea behind it, add so much mass that the cabinet is as completely inert as possible. You could also glue two 3/4 mdf boards together to get a 1 1/2" cabinet to cut down on resonance. I imagine cement backer board would work nicely also, 3/4" mdf with a layer of backer board glued to it. Can you veneer that stuff? eekaboo:


django1 said:


> If I'm looking for "mass" and "density" why not use cement backer board or ceramic tile?


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## LoudandClear (Apr 11, 2008)

I'd be careful to use cement backer board inside a subwoofer cabinet. That stuff is stronger than sheetrock but not invincible. It may start to crumble over time especially if it's a sealed sub due to pressure inside the cabinet. Then if it even crumbles/flakes off a little bit and the cement particles make their way into the speaker voice coil gap, that will ruin a speaker real fast. :saywhat:


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## Pestilenceten (Aug 10, 2010)

ever thought of using used or new 1/4" to 1/2" sorbothane sheets inside the subs, I use it for almost everything and it really reduces vibrations. I have seen used sheets go fairly cheap on Agon


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## alphaiii (Nov 30, 2007)

What about this stuff:
http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_24&products_id=786

At $2 per sq ft., I'm not sure how that compares price wise to other options though.


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## django1 (Jan 28, 2009)

Some interesting stuff...


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## woofersus (May 6, 2008)

Similar idea, but I can't imagine butyl rubber being nearly as effective as asphalt at mass loading the cabinet walls. Of course lots of things can add mass, but the denser the material, the thinner the layer can be and remain effective. Also, I'd imagine spreading out of the mass would make it less effective than keeping it all very close to the cabinet walls.

Of course, one of the things necessary for NoRez as a mass-produced item for resale is making it relatively easy to cut and work with. You could certainly choose much more labor intensive materials for a one-off project.


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## django1 (Jan 28, 2009)

I found some very interesting stuff here: read the section titled Panel Vibration Damping Experiments

Here is the gent's background


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## cbc (Feb 19, 2008)

I used a roll of Dyna-Mat, cut to fit, used hair dryer to warm up the adhesive side for better stickum, then used some adhesive backed foam with a textured 
surface I got from PartsExpress, stuck on top of the DynaMat. Seems to work great & was MUCH easier to cut & work with inside the cabs that NoRes was.


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