# Cedar Creek Cinema II



## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

Welp... it's that time to start planning.

I have a lot of space to work with since this will actually be an addition to the back side of our home.

There use to be a formula for calculating the proper size of a home theater room... anyone recall it?

I would probably like to have something about 16-18' wide by 24-26' deep... somewhere in that range or close to it.

Keeping in mind a 4 recliner section is about 12' wide and a 5 recliner section about 15' wide. Not sure what I will do there yet, just a thought to keep in mind for the width.


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

Sonnie said:


> There use to be a formula for calculating the proper size of a home theater room... anyone recall it?
> 
> I would probably like to have something about 16-18' wide by 24-26' deep... somewhere in that range or close to it.


I think it was 1:1.6:2.4 (9'x14.5x21.6) :scratch:


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

I did a search ....and almost got it right :innocent:



> Height Width Length
> 1.00 1.14 1.39
> 1.00 1.28 1.54
> 1.00 1.60 2.33
> ...


Here is the link to full  Article


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

That's a pretty good read there.

New dimensions and layout pics in this post.


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## Space (Jul 18, 2007)

Here is an article more related to the room ratios and volume of room.

http://www.acoustics.salford.ac.uk/acoustics_info/room_sizing/?content=best

It was a link taken from this page;
http://forum.studiotips.com/viewtopic.php?t=685


All heavy reading but all worth the time, imho.


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

They seem to agree with each other. 

I used the Room Mode Calculator we have here at the Shack and compared a few sizes.

The far right is what we had in our previous dedicated room... 8.5 x 11.5 x 19.5.

From what I understand, you want the as evenly spaced out as possible, but also the more you have the better.... you do not want them too far spaced out. The first column appears the best.


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

The only issue I would have with the first one is that their are six close groups.
1) 57, 62, 64 
2) 88, 89 
3) 125,127
4) 170, 173
5) 188, 191
& 6) 232, 234

The second one only has two close groups with the rest spaced out.
1) 70, 72
2) 141, 144


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

I need to try to figure out a good ratio with 9' height if possible. It seems hard to get that height with enough width and depth.


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

What is your maximum & minimum widths available.


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

It will be an addition, so I can do pretty much whatever I want. I was trying to stay in the 9' high x 16-20' wide x 23-27' deep. Somewhere in there. The 10' x 16' x 23.4' may end up having to work, but the height could end up being an issue. I would rather not have to deal with it and probably wouldn't have to if I can go with 9' height.


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## thewire (Jun 28, 2007)

24 X 15 looks pretty good to me for a 9' ceiling. That isn't when I am using any specific ratio, just looking at the calculator.


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

I will have a better look tonight but have a look at 24 x 21 x 9.
No problems below 150 Hz. Also if you are going for a vaulted ceiling it's harder to predict what that is going to do to the response.

All I do is choose the dimension that i prefer eg width or height and paste it into the spreadsheets here: http://www.acoustics.salford.ac.uk/acoustics_info/room_sizing/room_ratios.xls using the formula. 9.0	=D3*B3	=D3*C3 and then search for likely candidates. (That is with 9.0 in cell D3 and the two formulas in the next two cells)


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

15' would be too narrow... I need 16' and would prefer 17'.

I have read in several studies that multiples of each other is the worst you can do, but plugging in 21 x 24 x 9 does not look too bad... although that is a bit wide and a tad short for what I would like.


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## thewire (Jun 28, 2007)

I was recommended not to exceed a volume of around 4590 cubic feet. It is a challenge to fill all that space with sound.


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

A fair compromise can be had by a room of 25 x 18 x 10
Which comes out at 4500 cu ft. and only has a minor group at 90Hz.
If you plug the figures in here:- http://www.bobgolds.com/Mode/RoomModes.htm 
it also shows there are only minor problems.
For a graphical display of room node ratios check out here:- http://forum.studiotips.com/viewtopic.php?t=3148
hth


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

I really do like that size... especially the 18' wide.

I will investigate it along with adjusting 4-6" one way or the other on each.


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

Found another great site which lists the "2nd best room dimensions"
http://www.acoustics.salford.ac.uk/acoustics_info/room_sizing/?content=best
The file link is:-
http://www.acoustics.salford.ac.uk/acoustics_info/room_sizing/room_ratios_second_best.zip 
It's a zipped Excel file, set an autofilter and you can search all the ones close to 1.8 (ie 18 feet)


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

I have been reading over all of these sites and wow... my head is spinning.


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

Sonnie said:


> Welp... it's that time to start planning.
> 
> I have a lot of space to work with since this will actually be an addition to the back side of our home.


So you gave up on the "family room theater?"

Regards,
Wayne


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

You are up late.

Yeah... I think that will end up being too small and it looks like Chelsea may never leave the house. She's home grown and rooted for some reason... :dontknow: Plus... Angie is none to crazy about all this bass in the great room, and it is worse when you are in the family room, so the great room will probably be bad if subs are in the family room.

With a dedicated room added on to the back side of the garage, entrance from the now back door of the garage, it should really be silent even with the IB system. There will be no openings from the HT attic to our current attic. Access into the attic of the HT room will be from within the equipment room by way of a ladder. The addition will be bricked same brick as the house... as well as roof the same, so it will look like a part of the house. 

This way I should be able to do it right... the right size... like I have always wanted. It will be the last big thing I do I hope.


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## Rodny Alvarez (Apr 25, 2006)

> It will be the last big thing I do I hope.


:rofl::rofl:


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

Sonnie said:


> You are up late.


Yup - working nights this week...



> Yeah... I think that will end up being too small and it looks like Chelsea may never leave the house. She's home grown and rooted for some reason... :dontknow:


Ya might want to increase her dowry - hee hee... 



> It will be the last big thing I do I hope.


I'm with Rodny - Maybe if you were 68 or something, but you're to young to be talking like that! 

I do find this a bit curious, since you told us when you tore out the other one that you are losing interest in movies these days. Change of heart, I guess?

You doing the work yourself? I mean, you and Rodny? 

Hopefully this time you'll stick in a window unit? :whew: Maybe some lighting bright enough to read the spines of DVDs? :hide:

Regards,
Wayne


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

You know... I didn't realize just how much I would miss it after I took it out. Having built the sub and setting everything up for the great room, I really miss it. I also can't get the same bass I had in the HT room. Too many things rattling... and the wife is complaining, etc., etc. It's mainly an excuse to do it right and have some fun. :huh:

Funny you mention Rodny... another Rodny who has horses on our property and does framing is planning to help me frame it up. 

I don't imagine there will be any window unit... it will be a separate central unit, probably a one ton unit.


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

Well... BIG time changes!!!

Angie decided she did not really want our back yard space taken up by the addition and I told her the only other alternative was going to be taking the _entire_ garage. She said she thinks she would rather do that and build on a carport for the cars, which will be a whole lot less expensive. No slab to have to pour... it is already there, even for the carport. No bricking to do... less overall construction work. This should save us a good $10-12,000. Figuring the savings even made us both agree the garage is the ticket. So back to the garage we go, but a LOT different than before. It will be larger and it will have its own 1.5 ton central heating and cooling unit. I will wall off and do my best to seal off the attic space above the garage to help with the low base, which was never that bad... it sounded like distant thunder on movies like WOTW... and then only during the extreme bass scenes. However, if I want to do an IB system, I probably need to seal it off with a 6" wall and insulate it really well. We were already going to insulate the entire attic after having our duct work completely overhauled. I'll seal it and install a solid door, which should help a good bit.

The biggest drawback to this is I am limited on the size. 8.5' height is all I will get after carpet and another layer of sheetrock on the ceiling. It will only be about 7.5' high for the 10' of riser in the rear. The width can range from 17' minimum to as much as 18.5' maximum... then the depth can be 23', 23.5' or 24'. 23' is the minimum I can tolerate with my plans and the garage is only 24' wide... so that has to be the max. The drawing below show 8.5' x 18' x 24', but I figure I will need to adjust that as best I can for room modes. Not much to work with, but this will definitely help monetarily and I might can spend a bit more on my front speakers. :bigsmile:

The other minor drawback is I will have to build an equipment cabinet, but that is not a biggie because I have a lot more room to work with than I did with our previous dedicated HT room. This will get done much quicker than I expected now. :R:R:R


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## thewire (Jun 28, 2007)

I was trying to convince my family we needed to park under the theater during contruction. :dumbcrazy: Congrats on having a better space to work with! :T


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

It actually looks like 18 x 24 x 8.5 might be my best bet... if I am reading these right.


















18 x 23 x 8.5 might even be a touch better.


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

> I don't imagine there will be any window unit... it will be a separate central unit, probably a one ton unit.


What? I thought window units were the kind of air conditioning hillbillies used! (If they even had air conditioning!) :laugh:



> It will be larger and it will have its own 1.5 ton central heating and cooling unit.


Wow - do they even make window units that big?

Have you talked to an AC guy? I've always heard from them that the "rule of thumb" is one ton for every 500 sq. ft., and you have less than 400. Not to mention, with the double- and triple-sheetrocked staggerd stud walls packed full on insulation, air tight room, etc. - you'll get a lot more mileage out of the AC than you would normally.

Regards,
Wayne


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

Nice Job! Has the head stopped spinning? :mooooh:

I'm sure you're going to be happy with that.


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

What can I say... a modernized hillbilly? :bigsmile:

The biggest thing is cooling with all that hot equipment running for several hours. 

The minimum unit size is 1.5 ton... or so I am told. :huh: $3200 installed with 4 air vents and a return air duct. :spend:

EDIT... my other HAC guy quoted me $2600 with 6 vents... 4 in the HT room and 2 in the hallway entrance.


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

robbo266317 said:


> Nice Job! Has the head stopped spinning? :mooooh:
> 
> I'm sure you're going to be happy with that.


I am mentally spent. To tell you have bad it has been... I went to the fitness center and was doing my normal job of 25 minutes. Before I knew it, it was over. It only seemed like I had been jogging for about 10 minutes and I was ready to go another 25. That excitement adrenaline will crank you up. I wonder if I will get any sleep tonight. :rubeyes:


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

Have you considered some built in bass traps?

Reards,
Wayne


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

Yes... indeed I have. I was thinking about doing all four corners about 18" to 24" from each corner.

Something like this:









That would be built from floor to ceiling (8.5'). The face of the trap would be about 32" wide. GIK has the 2' x 4' panels, so I thought what I might do it cut a hole in the face of the panels about 1.5' x 7' and install two GIK panels over the cutout, stacking the panels for a 2' x 8' cover over the cutout. Or have them custom build me some 2' x 8' panels. I would also stuff the trap with insulation. 

I am not sure if this would work well, but I bet Bryan will know.

I plan to add panels on the side walls and possibly on the ceiling as well. I may cover the rest of the front wall in panels, of which those I may build myself, but I don't know for sure yet. I am only going to be able to afford so many panels.


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

> Yes... indeed I have. I was thinking about doing all four corners about 18" to 24" from each corner.


Even better, I believe you can do the same kind of thing along the wall-ceiling corners, all the way around room. Or instead of the 45-degree thing, maybe a soffit build out. With traps the rule is "the more the better." You might poke around on Ethan's site, I believe he has some info on doing built-in traps.

Regards,
Wayne


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

I wonder how built in traps will affect the room modes due to the variance in room size?

I am not so sure I can do bass traps in the back corners. That is where I plan to place my rear surrounds and they will most likely be the ML's with the rear upward firing tweeter that really helps with dispersions for rears. I am afraid bass traps might deaden the highs too much, not sure though.

I have to be very careful with ML's because they do not like too many treatments. I will probably start with the standard front wall panel, a couple of side wall panels and a couple of ceiling panels, then go from there. I can always add corner traps, even via soffits, later if needed.


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

New revised layout... still not completely decided on width and length.


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

Did you have any panels in your old room?

Regards,
Wayne


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

Yeah... I had some 1" panels. 

Here is a shot of the ones on the front wall...










Then the side walls were the same on each side...










And there was nothing in the back... just walls.


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

Your other room sounded just fine, IMO. I don't see a need to go overboard with treatments (for the upper frequencies), especially with the MLs. Everything you were describing above, it was sounding like you wanted the place as dead as a recording studio! Remember, you'll already have carpet and big padded chairs...

Regards,
Wayne


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

Yeah... after further thought, I decided it would be better to start out simple and increase as needed.


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

I got the tape measure out last night and did some exact measuring.

My height, figuring the plywood/sheetrock/padding/carpet, is going to end up at 8'7" (8.58). The only thing that will not be taken into account when figuring room modes will be the riser. I don't know that there is any calculator out there that will figure this.

The length/depth will be 23'2" (23.2). This includes 5.5" bottom plate up next to the current front and back walls + 5/8" ply + 5/8" rock. I have 24'4" now and subtract 6-3/4" from each end.

The width is variable from about 17' minimum to 19-1/2' maximum. I like the 19.5' best and it appears to be the best with modes if the height is constant at 8.58'.


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

That looks pretty good.


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

How do you go about figuring in the variance in height due to the riser... any idea?


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

Most sites say you take the average - the same as for a cathedral ceiling.
Its still only an aproximation though.


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

In that case... the average height will be 8.15' from front to back... still looks okay and midbass improves.


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

It would be nice to see some rew graphs of the room when it's built to see how it matches up in reality. (without furniture)

We're currently in the process of building a new house (plans only at the moment). Unfortunately the space available to me is limited to aprox 5.6m x 4 m x 2.7 m. :thumbsdown:


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

Yeah... that would be kinda neat to know how close it really is.


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## Space (Jul 18, 2007)

Sonnie said:


> How do you go about figuring in the variance in height due to the riser... any idea?


I'm going to put this out here, Bryan may correct some or all of it. Room ratios and diminsions, in general, are taken from the hard boundaries of the room as a means to determine frequency response overall.

The addition of a stage or riser would fall more into the treatment of the room rather then part of the overall expected response from a specific room ratio. Things will be installed into these risers/stages, e.g. insulation inside, mass on the outside, carpets, etc., that will change or alter the cubic footage it takes up and the frequency response of the area it occupies.

Look at the room as an empty area. Even averaging of low to high ceiling heights or trays, cathedral types, etc., assume the room is empty.


That is my understanding, as of today


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

Looking at either one in my case, they both look pretty good. Of course we know all the stuff in the room is going to effect these modes some, but it surely can't be any worse that what I had, I don't think... I hope not... maybe not. raying:

I am truly excited that I can have a 19½' width and enough depth to have space behind the rear seating row for floor standing surrounds and subs, etc...


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

Here are a few updated layouts... 



















Up front is the 2.35:1 screen flanked by acoustic panels from GIK Acoustics. In each front corner are the Audiopulse DIY ported subs (drivers sold by Funky Waves). The cabinet is loaded with an Onkyo TX-SR876 receiver, a pair of Behringer EP2500's, a DVD player and a satellite receiver... with a few DVDs up there to occupy space. The Martin Logan Spires mains and Matinee center round out the front area.

In the rear are the Martin Logan Clarity's with a pair of Exodus Maelstrom-X 18" drivers in an LLT manifold... ported out the front of the riser. Sitting on top of each driver cabinet is an EP2500. I will most likely build some sort of a DVD shelving section above the subs... recessed into the wall.

Along the side walls is the double door entrance and 4 more GIK Acoustic panels (2 on each side). I have some panels left over from my other HT room that I may install on the ceiling or in some other places on the walls, but first I want to see what it sounds like as it is laid out above. ML's do not like over treated rooms... and I may actually get diffusers for the front wall instead of absorbers.


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## thewire (Jun 28, 2007)

With all that subwoofage it may be a good idea to bring a sub into the room and check the structure using some sine waves, knocking things with a broom stick, or playing a movie with lots of bass. It would be disappointing to build over the other walls only to find later there are loose ends such as the other drywall being unsecure, maybe a pipe in the wall that is loose etc.


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

That's where having had an HT room in the garage before comes in handy. :bigsmile:

But yeah... we plan to tear out most everything and start fresh anyway. We will be looking for things such as that.


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

The company who did the house plans for us are now in receivership.:crying:
Hopefully someone will take them over... It's lucky that we are still waiting for council to approve the plans and not part way through the build.
It was going to be this one modified so the double garage was my music room. (I already have a two story double garage at the rear of the property - it's a corner block 60 foot by 120 foot)
pics here:- http://www.wincrest.com.au/HouseFacade.asp?HouseID=35#


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

Yep... now we know who has the money on this forum... :yes:


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

Sonnie said:


> Yep... now we know who has the money on this forum... :yes:


:rofl::rofl::rofl: I wish that was the case! :spend:


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Very nice robbo!! :T


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

Guys... I am a bit concerned about the truss system being able to hold the ceiling weight in the HT room. 

I did some measuring and it is already sagging about 3/4" from outside walls to center. Currently the garage is 24' x 25'. We will be reducing the 25' span to 19.5' when we add the HT wall. The 24' span will be reduced to 23'. 

I can pick the wall back up some when I add the HT wall at the 19.5', but we are adding to the 1/2" sheetrock another 5/8" plywood plus another 5/8" sheetrock. That is going to add a LOT of weight. Then we will have the HAC unit up there, of which we can always move it over closer to the side, but still it is more weight on the truss system.

This is nothing more than a 2" x 4" truss system. Here are a few picks of the area above where the HT room will be.




























There are two 2" x 4" boards forming an L shape running down the center of the trusses... not sure what that is all about.

What I was thinking is maybe adding a couple of 6" x 6" posts... or maybe a couple of 4" round steel post at the edge of the 3' step down next to the riser. This would be at about 2' off the center line of the trusses, but it would narrow the span from 19.5' to 13'. I don't think the post would be distracting at all... but maybe even add a little decor to the room.










Not really knowing much about truss systems... I am not sure what I am up against here, but I believe I would feel more comfortable adding the post.

Anyone have any ideas?


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## Space (Jul 18, 2007)

Sonnie said:


> Guys... I am a bit concerned about the truss system being able to hold the ceiling weight in the HT room.
> 
> I did some measuring and it is already sagging about 3/4" from outside walls to center. Currently the garage is 24' x 25'. We will be reducing the 25' span to 19.5' when we add the HT wall. The 24' span will be reduced to 23'.
> 
> ...


Sonnie, you are a smart man for wondering about your truss roof. 

The sagging of your truss system is evidence that there has been additional load on the truss not engineered into the original specification. This notion is supported by the plywood decking added most likely for storage on top of the bottom 2X4 truss cord. It is a common reason for sagging. That and installing mechanical units in the overhead.

As you mentioned, this is a 2X4 system. The reason this truss works with 2X4 where you might think 2X6 or 2X8 would be is because of the truss design. By design, the load is shared by all wood members of the individual trusses. Any forces that apply pressure to the truss, the truss distributes the pressure thru the webbing and to the bottom cord and outward to the wall plate area.

In your case you have a fink truss. That "L" shape 2by material going down the center is called a "strong back". It is in place to do several things. One is to help align the bottom cords at the install and to maintain the truss lay-out. The other is another means to distribute or share any pressure applied to the roof system. 

Your curiosity about if this design can hold additional weight is wise. Another issue, just for you, is how close to hurricane alley are you? Pressurization of a building under extreme conditions can create failure under the best engineered design. Add additional weight and all the specs change.

My goal is to help you understand some of the things you are addressing, I hope this is received well as such.


Brien


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

I was renovating a rental property and the front bedroom was about 12 foot by 14 foot and it had a similar layout except its sag was 1 1/2" at the centre. I had to run a 14 foot 2x6 across the middle of the room to pull it back up. 
That was without any additional loading on it!


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## Space (Jul 18, 2007)

robbo266317 said:


> I was renovating a rental property and the front bedroom was about 12 foot by 14 foot and it had a similar layout except its sag was 1 1/2" at the centre. I had to run a 14 foot 2x6 across the middle of the room to pull it back up.
> That was without any additional loading on it!


You shored up a 1 and 1/2 inch sag in a truss roof in a 12 foot span?


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

It had old "horse hair plaster" which weighs a ton. Not quite co much sag once it was gone. Plus one of the 2x4's had a crack and had to be replaced as well. I'm at work so I can't post any pics.
I removed it and put up lightweight ceiling gyprock. (drywall)


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

I could... in theory... add an LVL from one wall to the other near the center line where the "strongback" runs, but I really do not feel comfortable about messing with the truss system at all. The last thing I need is the roof caving in above us because of my ignorance. :sarcastic:

I think what I might do is take the sheetrock ceiling out. I already have new walls being installed on each end of the 23' span. Then install new 2 x 6 joist supported by these new walls running those up and in between the current joist, with the bottom of the 2 x 6 about 2.5" below the current joist. Then add the weight to the new ceiling joist.

The next question is can a 24' span of 2 x 6 support that same two layers of material, the 5/8" plywood and 5/8" sheetrock? I think I will need a beam in the middle to support those. 

This is not looking good at all for my ceiling height. :hissyfit:


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

I finally spoke with the company that built my trusses. The first gentleman has been with the company forever, not an engineer, but knows his stuff. He stated I will have no problems adding the extra 5/8" plywood and 5/8" sheetrock to the current ceiling. However, he gave me the phone number to the engineer and stated I could call him to verify if it would make me feel more comfortable. So I did... I was able to speak directly with the engineer. This truss system is what they consider a very minor span of only 24'. He stated it would take about 800 pounds per square foot to cause that truss system to give any. He also stated it could easily handle the extra weight. 

I asked him about adding an LVL in line with the "strong tie" (as he called it) from one support wall to the other and tying in to the current truss system just to keep if from deflating any further. He stated it would not hurt anything. He stated it was not necessary, but if I wanted to do it that it would indeed give more strength to the truss system. He also stated that adding a few 2 x 4's from the center peak to the top of the LVL would add additional strength, although again it is not necessary.

I had another guy come over who stick frames houses... he agreed, no problems, but he did think the LVL would be a good idea just to be on the safe side, especially since we are going to have 4 x 18" subwoofers and 2 x 15" subwoofers in the room... which will be like a real earthquake during some like War of the Worlds.


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

Sonnie said:


> ... the LVL would be a good idea just to be on the safe side, especially since we are going to have 4 x 18" subwoofers and 2 x 15" subwoofers in the room... which will be like a real earthquake during some like War of the Worlds.


Did you mentioned that to the engineer??? :whistling:

Remember "Better safe than sorry", if you can reinforce the structure (even if not necessary), I'll say "Do it" :yes:


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

Yeah... he is the one that suggested I could even add the center peak support to the LVL if I wanted to add integrity to the truss system. I think it is the safest route to take.


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

Construction pics...

You know you are a *******... when you have to use a lamp on top of your refrigerator in the garage :bigsmile: ...




Evidence of Cedar Creek Cinema of old... where the riser was siliconed to the floor...




Some of the preparing for construction pics... after the garage doors are taken down... demolition...

   


Of course when you take the entire garage, you have to make a new spot for momma to park her ride (ok... and daddy too :whistling: )...




Hmmm... but if we take up the entire garage, how will we get into the house without getting wet when it's raining? Ahhh... make a walkway (yes it will be covered). This was my first real experience with concrete, but it was rather simple and somewhat fun...

 


We got started on the wall today... and finished the plywood on the ceiling...

 


Our plans are to finish up on the walls and get started with the wiring over the weekend.

Still a long ways to go though... :sneeky:


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

Sonnie said:


>


Thank you for the pictures ...

I'm curious ....Who's ride is in the background??? :bigsmile:


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

More important, where is the CD changer and sub? :laugh:

Regards,
Wayne


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

Nice leather seats too...:bigsmile:


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

lol... you guys are crazy! :dumbcrazy:


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## brandonnash (Sep 11, 2006)

Sonnie said:


> You know you are a *******... when you have to use a lamp on top of your refrigerator in the garage :bigsmile: ...


guilty


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

Well... I did install a light for the hallway entrance today, so the lamp will be put up for a camping trip.

Worked all day on the room. Got all but part of one wall framed, which is one of the garage door openings. I believe I will get the sheetrock and plywood unloaded in the garage before framing it up. Hopefully I can get that done Monday and then get started on the riser and electrical.


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## Rodny Alvarez (Apr 25, 2006)

Hey Sonnie!

are you going to build one of this in your theater??:spend:


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

Hmmm... I might better pass on that one. :blink:


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## Space (Jul 18, 2007)

Wonder where a fella could get the plans for one of those?


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

... and a second mortgage... not only for the project, but for the wine too! :gulp:

Of course, someone building that doesn't really need a mortgage do they. :whistling: They got it already... :spend: :spend: :spend:


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## jdeanmc (Aug 26, 2008)

come on,where are the updates?
Ive just added can lights,ir dimmer for remote and got a new blu ray player,now im about to redo all my cables(like the look of the belkins from your post)
Now my wife is starting to think im obsessing again!!!i need to show her your progress to get some heat off of me:whistling:
"see honey,im not that bad. look how far this guys going" :bigsmile:


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

lol... It won't be too much longer and I'll have some. It has really been slow going lately... mostly wiring and other little things. I have too many other things going on too.


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

More progress on the carport... which is a requirement since the former garage is no more...



Then for the HT room... I worked on this riser for way too long...

    

  


Of course there has been much more done... I just need to take more photos. Hopefully I can do that later today and get more updated shots tonight.


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

Shoot - slap some walls on the carport and you'll have a garage!

Regards,
Wayne


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

That may come to a reality sooner or later, although I hope not. The brick hardly ever matches after the initial bricking of the house... and another $3000 or so. :yikes:


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

The insulation is done...

 

And all the sheetrock is now on the ceiling, thanks to the help I had, who was not much of a conservationist...

 

That Green Glue is the stickiest stuff I have ever worked with... DO NOT get it on your hands. It won't go away without some serious scrubbing. :blink:


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## Mike Cason (Mar 17, 2007)

Hey Sonnie,

If you continue to have some sagging problems, you might get with a local carpenter and ask him about installing some "Saddle lam beams" or BCIs, They are both engineered beams, the BCI being the cheapest and easiest to handle. You would have to cut a hole in the gable end and pull them in that way. A good carpenter should be able to answer those questions. I built a two story home with a two story garage and we went with the BCI construction and the house is very tight. By the way, truss construction is great! You have just added a bit of extra weight the ceiling wasn't designed for.

I read in an earlier post you were in need of some Lazy Boy recliners. I've got 6 of them with your DNA still on them and I'll give them to you for free but the shipping might be quite expensive.

Looking forward to delivering them and seeing your progress!

Mike


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

A step ahead of you... :bigsmile: I added a _*pair*_ of LVL beams (screwed together) from center of each wall, both ends supported with reinforced wall studs (6 studs stack side by side). The LVL runs about 4 inches above the ceiling joist of the truss system, with each joist attached to the LVL, as well as a support brace run from the top of the LVL to the top center ridge of the truss system. IOWs... super duper reinforced.

I opted for the Berkline motorized recliners from Roman this time around. Already paid a 50% deposit. I only managed to get about a fourth of those paid for with the money from that guy that ripped me off when he bought my La-z-boy recliners. :whistling:


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## Mike Cason (Mar 17, 2007)

Sonnie said:


> A step ahead of you... :bigsmile: I added a _*pair*_ of LVL beams (screwed together) from center of each wall, both ends supported with reinforced wall studs (6 studs stack side by side). The LVL runs about 4 inches above the ceiling joist of the truss system, with each joist attached to the LVL, as well as a support brace run from the top of the LVL to the top center ridge of the truss system. IOWs... super duper reinforced. That's a great way to do it!
> I opted for the Berkline motorized recliners from Roman this time around. Already paid a 50% deposit. I only managed to get about a fourth of those paid for with the money from that guy that ripped me off when he bought my La-z-boy recliners. :whistling:


That con artist must have been from Texas!

Your project is looking great! Only because we're friends, I'm going to send my buddy over to show you some fine speakers at a bargain price. Ya can't miss him 'cause he'll be driving a white van; leftover stock from a previous install....

Mike


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

Man... I thought I had bought all of those up already. There are more? :rolleyesno:


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

Worked all day today in the new HT room and got all the plywood up... now it is time to finish the sheetrock.

Here are a few shots of the new carport (the post are still to be painted). You can follow the entrance all the way into the HT room.


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## Funkmonkey (Jan 13, 2008)

Holy cow! what a great build. Makes me jealous not to have a house that I can build additions/conversions to accommodate my obsession! I'm looking forward to seeing pics as the finish work gets done. Looks great Sonnie :T


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

Thanks Greg... I appreciate it. 

I finished up the sheetrock yesterday and a good buddy painter friend of mine is going to do the mudding for me. He is a pro at that stuff... which I would mess it up really bad if I touched it.

I got both doors installed, which went much smoother than I anticipated. 

This afternoon I worked on adding some bracing support to the riser and almost got that finished. It is much more solid now.

I hope to get it finished and get the stage going on Wednesday.


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

Man... has this been some serious work! :sweat:

They started on the carpet on Thursday and still did not get finished after leaving at about 7pm on Saturday. These guys are meticulous with the upholstering and trim work on the riser. They spent a good 4-5 hours just making the bends on the corners. They spent an entire day just tiling the steps from the entrance to the house and the entrance pad. They have basically spared nothing in perfection. They should finish up tomorrow. Then I will still have to install the baseboard and touch up things a bit.

I will pick up the equipment cabinet tomorrow and will still have to paint the final coat on it.

I finished up building the other Pulse sub today and got the first primer coat on it... as well as got the first texture coat on the first Pulse sub. I hope to finish both of them up tomorrow if all goes well. 

All the equipment is in the room in boxes on the stage that has already been carpeted. I rented a U-haul trailer to move it from the office to the house.

If all goes well I will hopefully start hooking things up this next weekend. All in all I am still probably a couple of weeks away from grand opening, but it is getting closer.


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## slim2fattycake (Aug 21, 2008)

Wow. This makes my home theater set-up feel so little. lol. Good job.


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

It's all done now! Here!


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## F1 fan (Jul 6, 2006)

Now thats a beauty HT.Congrats.


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## Andysu (May 8, 2008)

Sonnie said:


> More progress on the carport... which is a requirement since the former garage is no more...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Now this is what caught my eye every impressive.:T I was thinking more or less a long the same lines as this about month ago. I have to spare JBL sub bass drivers and was thinking of knocking up base floor sub flooring for the back part of the room. Only my idea is different, thou I like what you’ve constructed here.

It’s so irresistibly tempting and cheap to build. How does it perform does it meet your expectations or is it still early days as of yet because I don’t see a final construction done and up and running final picture?

I was thinking of having the enclosures fixed to base platform with sub bass driver facing down into the platform and the port somewhere on the outside the enclosure. But I rather like your approach with the ports facing into the room.

Timber doesn’t cost much rough timber that is. I have to spare subs only need sub flooring two enclosures made-up and some tubing for the ports and lots of sweaty t-shirts to change as well.:bigsmile:


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