# Bang & Olufsen RL 60; 60.2; & RL35 replacement drivers and parts.



## Mike Cason

Since I've redesigned the Bang and Olufsen Redline 60 loudspeaker, I have started purchasing used speakers and now have a good inventory of used drivers, tweeters, and other parts available for the Redline 60, 60.2, & the RL 35 speakers. I'm testing the drivers when I receive the speaker and then perform individual tests on the main drivers. I'm testing the midwoofer drivers without a crossover. My amplifier is the TOA BG-130 with a frequency response of 50hz to 20,000 hz. I tune to a moderate rock station which gives me a wide spectrum of frequencies the drivers see. 

I leave them on for a full hour at just over 100 dB and just under 30 watts to make sure they have no problems before they leave here. 

The woofers have a high XMAX and sound fantastic. The surrounds and cones are in very good shape. The tweeters I test when I receive the speakers still hooked to the crossover so I don't destroy them. 

If the drivers have cracked or dry surrounds or cone issues, I throw them away when I receive them. I want to make sure you get a good replacement driver for your Redline.

The ABR plates are always broken, separated, and ratteling around in the ABR side of the speaker. 

My Redline 60 ABR rebuild and conversion can be found at: http://www.speakerhobby.com/bangolufsen.htm

Bang & Olufsen used foam for the surrounds on their ABR (Auxillary Bass Radiator) plates and they fail. I have posted a redesign for the failed ABRs on my website with detailed modification photos and many folks in several countries have used this design and have been happy with their end results. The ABRs, foam surrounds, and the Ports for the 60.2 conversion are no longer available. 

Most of these people have had them since they were new and don't want to part with them due to their outstanding musical quality so they are choosing to rebuild. If they are short on knowledge, they get someone to help them. B & O dealers and service centers can't help them anymore. The cabinets are designed to be resonant free.

Crossover rebuilds may be available upon request. The original caps are small, only 63 v. and electrolytic, which die over time. I use 400v Solen or Jantzen Cross-Cap replacement capacitors and Mills resistors.

The price per replacement driver is $65.00 ea plus shipping. This includes the woofer or tweeter.


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## Mike Cason

*Re: Bang & Olufsen RL 60 ABR & Crossover kit now available.*

After purchasing a sizeable quantity of the 5.25" Tymphany 830880 passive radiators which I use to modify and replace the failed ABRs in the Bang and Olufsen Redline 60s, I have assembled a comple DIY kit which includes 8 Solen capacitors, 2 Sonic Craft bypass caps for the tweeters, 2 Mills resistors and 4 passive radiators.

I have full step by step pictures on my site to get rid of the outdated ABRs and install the passive radiators.

I am also now selling rebuilt crossovers for the Redline 60s. Many folks have asked me to rebuild theirs for them and I haven't had time, so now that I have more spare time due to the slowing economy, I am making available the completed pair of upgraded and improved crossovers.

I will need your old crossovers sent to me so I'll have a rebuildable crossover I can use, otherwise I need to charge a $50 core charge. Damaged or burn't up crossovers are not accepted as core exchanges.


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## pavlograd

Mike, I just bought a used pair of B&O 60.2's. I would like to rebuild the crossovers. I can do it myself and wanted to know if you would just sell me the parts you have assembled and, if you would, what is the price and how do I order them? Is there anything else in the 60.2's that is an easy improvement? Thanks, Steve


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## Mike Cason

I moved to the Philippines 2 years ago and gave away all of my inventory. I don't have any information and can't remember the values of the components I used. I worked on and built many different types of speakers. Go to Photobucket and search for Mfshmike. There you will find several folders and one of them should be my B & O rebuilds. Perhaps there is good information still available to you. Good luck


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## pa79

I realize that this thread is really old now, but on the offchance that anyone might see this, I thought I'd ask. I recently shipped my RL 60.2's, and one of the mid range drivers has started buzzing. I've opened them up and I can't see anything wrong from the back, but it definitely sounds bad. I was intending to take the driver out and see if I can fix/replace it, but it seems to be glued in as well as held in place with the clamps - are there any tips on how to remove the driver without breaking anything?


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