# My TRIO12/APR15/BASH500 build thread



## caper26

Hi guys. Earlier in the year I built a TRIO12 dual APR12 SPA500 sub, in an extra large 24" cube. Unfortunately, my large room (about 24' X 14', with an opening to a hallway and back half of the room about 18' wide) requires more subbage. Since the kit with a single 15" passive radiator (PR) seems to produce similar results to the dual 12 PRs, and is quite a bit cheaper, I went with the TRIO12, APR15, BASH500 combo for $379 + tax & shipping. It really is a steal since the plate amp alone is $270. I will be making it as per the cut sheet specs: 20" box since the last one takes up quite a bit of real estate. In the future, a horn sub may be constructed if I get bored and need a new project.

I haven't made any cuts yet, but bought a new Mastercraft Maximum Router on sale, as well as a Jasper 270 circle jig. I made sure the jig made circles 18"+ in case of future upgrade builds . I don't have a lot of experience with routers, so last night was getting familiar with it, and making sure the jig fit the base, which thankfully, it did. Router bits also went on sale shortly after purchasing the router, so I got a set of 12 or so carbide tipped mastercraft bits for around $25 (regularly $90-ish).

So now I have the plans, the kit, tools, and the MDF. Just need to pick up some glue, and it is off to the races next week (visitors this weekend...). *Any tips on screws/nails, so that I can keep working on the box assembly while gluing?* Thanks.


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## caper26

Well I got to the shop once last week. Cut all the panels and the circles. Using the plunge router and a circle jig is THE way to do it let me tell you! It took longer to setup the router than to actually cut out the circles!! I did 3 passes on first one, and realized how easy they were cut and did 2 passes on the 2nd one, also easy. I used a speed setting of 4 out of 6 on the router with a 1/4" straight bit. I took the panels home afterward and drilled out the mounting holes and glued the hurricane nuts in with gorilla glue. Bob put in one T nut by mistake so I mounted that in the back side of the panel.

Safety gear:


 

Jig pin. You drill through work-piece and sacrificial panel and also clamp. The pin keeps everything from shifting when the circle is cut all the way through. Also, there is a LOT of packed in MDF dust in the cut as well.:


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## caper26

Went in for a little tonight. Got as far as the internal bracing, which I have not figured out a fast way to do. centering, measuring, drawing lines on both sides... ugh. Pretty much all I got done was the amp cutout, and the bracing cutout, and some panels 'lined'. Start gluing on sat I hope, then it will go faster.


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## Mike P.

> Any tips on screws/nails, so that I can keep working on the box assembly while gluing?


If you're going to use screws instead of clamps then use 1.5 drywall screws, preferably the coarse thread type.

You must pre-drill the holes the full length of the screw and as wide as the shank of the screw. 

Using a counter sink bit will allow you to keep the screw head flush or slightly below the surface, depending on how you are going to finish the cabinet. 

When drilling the holes stay away from the edges of any panel 3/4".

Practice on a couple of scraps first to make sure you have it right before you do any panels.








 
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## caper26

well, it's not that I don't have, or want, to use clamps; I would just like to assemble the box quickly, instead of gluing, clamping, then waiting for up to a couple of days until the club is open again. The most it will be open is Tues, Wed, Sat... and that is only if there is a supervisor available any given day, and if I am available to work on it that day too. I was thinking a few screws per edge (3 or 4), then clamp it all up at the end. Thoughts?


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## BD55

Brad nailers are great. They are quick and the brads are small enough to not split anything, yet with enough of them you won't have to worry about it all falling apart while you get set up to put a couple clamps on the ends.


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## dboff01

caper26 said:


> well, it's not that I don't have, or want, to use clamps; I would just like to assemble the box quickly, instead of gluing, clamping, then waiting for up to a couple of days until the club is open again. The most it will be open is Tues, Wed, Sat... and that is only if there is a supervisor available any given day, and if I am available to work on it that day too. I was thinking a few screws per edge (3 or 4), then clamp it all up at the end. Thoughts?


I recently built a ported subwoofer and had few clamps and even less patience.

I used 6 x 1 5/8" square-drive trim screws with great success. I put the glue down, put the pieces together, clamped with the couple of clamps I have, then pre-drilled and screwed. They have a decent bite in the MDF and self-recess given the head shape/size. Once all the screws were inserted for that panel, I immediately removed the clamps and moved on to the next piece.

For reference, my build thread is here.


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## caper26

thanks for the fast replies. I will see what I have readily available and go from there. Can't wait to get this started.


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## caper26

Got the brace done. The way I chose to do it was the same as last time. First start with the large piece. Draw the lines on the side panels on both sides first. Clamp it, then drill out some holes for drywall screws in the middle of the lines. Take clamps off, apply glue, then put back in place, re-clamp and put the screws in. This allows you to keep working. After one panel is done, then put the little pieces for the brace on in the same way. Take note that not all the brace pieces are flush with the panel edges, so I used a scrap piece of MDF where the other panels will be fitted, so they will fit nicely when the time comes.


 

Now there is only the 4 panels left. I still have to dry fit the amp first. I will be using the drywall screws again, so that I can glue it all in one day. The remaining panels are already lined so I can drill the pilot holes when ready.


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## caper26

Mike P. said:


> If you're going to use screws instead of clamps then use 1.5 drywall screws, preferably the coarse thread type.


They are working great so far. Thanks for the tip.


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## caper26

Front panel to go !! tick tock !


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## Mike P.

Pics or it ain't true!


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## caper26

Well here it is in rough shape. I had to get it out of the shop by tonight. Got the front on, and some putty!!


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## caper26

Been away for past 2 weeks. Sanded out the seams last night to make the faces nice & flush. Put some more putty on after that. Dry fitted amp and that is good to go. Almost time for the finish.


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## caper26

Rounded over the 2 edges (top front to back) with 3/8" I believe, and all the front edges in 1/4". I was scared of the screws, since I didn't think of how far to countersink them beforehand. I hand sanded everything afterward, especially where the edges meet (the corners, lol) to make them nice and round. In the process of all that sanding, the bondo in the screw holes sanded too low to make a dip, so I had to skim coat them one more time. I am hoping to get more done tonight since I don't have band practice.


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## caper26

Dry fitted speakers, then first coat of Duratex. The picture of the jug is what was left over after my 24" Trio12 project. It was nice NOT having to buy that again !! I also had to trim down the brace on one side since I mounted the inserts prior to assembly and the holes would not line up due to the interference from the brace. The sub cabinet is upside down with the speakers in it. The toys are because my wife runs a daycare during the day!


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## Mike P.

Looking good! I'm curious about the Duratex, how big is the pail and how much does it cost? I'm guessing you use a roller to apply it?


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## caper26

Thanks pal. [ HERE ] are the specs for the Duratex. It is approx the same price now as when I bought it: $53 + tax and shipping which came to $84. It says: 3.78 L, which is a US gallon. Yes I used a roller from Canadian tire. THIS one. Last time I used these, and it worked ok. I was curious as to a different texture this time, so I bought one of the larger ones since it has a different style nap. It is basically the same texture however.


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## Mike P.

Just one coat does it?


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## caper26

Definitely not. It does go on fast, and dries FAST (in front of a wood stove!). Self priming too. Just finished second coat. ALL done except the bottom. Gotta wait for top to cure overnight before I flip it. Calling it a night...


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## caper26

Bottom coat #1. Also, the place you order the Duratex from has special open cell foam rollers (I think). I figured I could just use the ones from CT so I didn't get them. In hind site, I would have liked to have tried them. One more thing, I lightly sanded in between coats and really liked the feel of the finish that way. If you don't sand, the finish can feel really 'sharp' or rough. If you sand it light enough, the texture looks the same but feels much smoother. I am also considering using Krylon Fusion textured (hammered or stone) finish on the front of the sub just to mix it up a little. It is on sale tomorrow. I am looking at the Stone finishes, and liking any of the ones with black. , I may just try it, and if it is no good, can always sand re-duratex...


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## BD55

That finish looks great! Nice work :T Have you had a chance to fire it up for a dry run?


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## caper26

BD55 said:


> That finish looks great! Nice work :T Have you had a chance to fire it up for a dry run?


Thanks!! I haven't fired it up yet, but I can't wait! Just put 2nd coat on the bottom. I could be done now, but I want to get a little creative and do the front with something cool. Black Marble would be awesome, but I don't think they carry it around here. Going shopping now to see what they have. If nothing, then I could have it up & running tonight.

@Mike P. : Is there some sort of clearance required since it is a down firing sub?? I plan on using casters again, THESE ONES. I'd say it would give about 2" of clearance from baffle, but maybe less from driver surround (surface mount) ??

EDIT: Went to the store and they did not have the 'marble' finish, which I think would be a great idea: A sub that looked like it was carved out of black marble ! So, it will remain as it is now with the duratex on all sides. I just have to install the drivers and amp and then take it for a test ride!


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## Mike P.

I wouldn't go less than 3 inches for leg height. What you can do is set the sub on 2", 3" and then 4" blocks and see if it makes a difference in output.


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## caper26

great idea, thanks again. 

It's alive!  It is all together, and from first impressions, it has definitely made a difference at the LP (where it sits now.) Since it is a tad smaller than the other one, I am hoping I have more options for placement and look forward to finding a nice spot for it. Pics in a bit.


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## caper26

Here are a few pictures. First impressions weren't great, but it is in a spot for now, but I did notice an improvement at LP when both subs are playing. Also, hard to be impressed with a lesser sub too  

The sub is on its side. First 2 are the front (the 15" PR). Next pic is the bottom (Driver TRIO12). The amp is in the back, and last 2 are both TRIO12's together. The one on the left is the one I just finished. The bigger brother is in a 24" box with dual opposed 12" PRs.


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## Mike P.

They look great, well done!


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## caper26

Mike P. said:


> They look great, well done!


Thanks man! Watched "How to Train your Dragon" tonight with the kids. Sure felt the loveseats shaking !


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## caper26

Well, I think I will make little caster "bases" to increase floor clearance. It will be 2 pieces of MDF glued together, one larger than the other so I don't have to screw through 1.5" of MDF, to get to the subwoofer. The base will be 1.5" and the casters are also 1.5" to give 3". That should do it.
Will be using these, the same as the first sub I made:


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## Cyberfloatie

I missed the reason you need castors on it... is it really going to move around so often that castors are required? It'd be a shame to ruin the look of such a lovely cube with ugly steel.


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## caper26

Yes it will need to move around a lot for the time being since the wife uses the space for babysitting children during the day. In the future, when there are no small kids around, I will fill the screw holes, and put the spikes on; only after I find the sweet spot for it and don't need to move it anymore  Also at that time, my towers will be part of my HT, replacing the TAKE-FPS.

PS: You can see the casters on the bigger sub in the side-by-side picture above. I installed them a little 'inset' from the edges so you couldn't see the steel as easily.


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## johnnyfamous

caper26 said:


> Thanks man! Watched "How to Train your Dragon" tonight with the kids. Sure felt the loveseats shaking !


nice builds! have you noticed any bottoming out issues during How to train your dragon? there are a few passages on that that caused mine to bottom out.. Great effect movie though!


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## caper26

johnnyfamous said:


> nice builds! have you noticed any bottoming out issues during How to train your dragon? there are a few passages on that that caused mine to bottom out.. Great effect movie though!


Well, I know my sub, so I know how much I can and cannot push it (my first one). The new one, APR15, I haven't tweaked it at all yet. I just plugged it in, and running it a little past 12 o'clock. It hasn't bottomed yet. I figure I can run the amp gain on this one a little more than the larger one, since this one is slightly smaller (20" vs 24"). They are sharing the same signal from the receiver's LFE, and it was PEQ'd with only the large sub before I split the signal. Does that make any sense?


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## caper26

After a few movies now, I have noticed that a significant increase in LFE at the listening position. "Aliens", during the robot gunner scene (the un-manned machine guns in the tunnels) was pretty wicked, and also the parts where Ripley is in the "Loader" machine at the end... the footsteps were cool. Even during a kids xmas movie "The santa clause" 1 & 2, there were a few good LFE passages. All in all, comparing to the past, my single sub would have definitely bottomed trying to reach those volumes, but with 2, I am getting the results I need and no longer cringe in anticipation of the PAC PAC! sound of a bottom-out, and have reached a "satisfied" state of LFE... for now... and I still have a SDX 10 to build !


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## caper26

SDX12 arrived today to replace this driver


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## Stinn

You are going to drop the SDX12 into the TRIO12's place? The builds both look great, that coating you use is awesome, I may have to look into that for my next project.


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## caper26

Stinn said:


> You are going to drop the SDX12 into the TRIO12's place?


Affirmative. Completed the install this evening !


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## Stinn

And how did you find the difference? Noticeable?


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## caper26

Tried some music out, and yes, the difference was noticeable. With the TRIO, I had to bring the gain up really high for music; now not so much. When I cranked up some music with both subs, the output was definitely more let me tell you. But the big test will be with movies... that is where the TRIOs fell short with the bottoming problem.
Bob at CSS was very accommodating with everything!! Some decent customer service goes a LONG way with me, and Bob knows what he is doing in that regard which is one of the keys to a successful company.


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## caper26

Here are a few photos during the swap:


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