# 01 S-10 ZR2: Need help with audio system



## Hunter844 (Apr 22, 2007)

I have very little knowledge on mobile audio systems, not completely stupid but I've always been more of a home theater guy. Anyway I've had a subwoofer for a long time and it's just been laying around since I sold my Toyota several years ago and I'd like to install it into my S-10 only I don't know how to integrate it into the stock head unit. 

Is there a plug kit or something that would aid in this process? The directions say to run a fuse link over to the ignition wire only I don't have a clue where to hook in to that and don't want to start guessing. I always thought you run both wires out to the battery but that's not what this suggests.

Anyway. I'd also like some good suggestions on upgrading the speakers. I've got speakers in the doors and in the dash. The speakers in the dash appear to be 4x6 and the door speakers I would guess are 4'' components. I'd like to keep the budget around $60 per speaker but willing to take plenty of suggestions. 

Subwoofer is a Kenwood KSC-WA801 

http://www.kenwoodusa.com/UserFiles/File/Global/Consumer/Manuals/ksc-wa801.pdf


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## Moonfly (Aug 1, 2008)

Your sub needs an amp if it doesnt have one already, does it (just noticed it should have, looking at the pdf). You need to run a power cable from the battery to power the sub, but the ignition cable is a sort of trigger that turns the amp on and off to prevent it draining your battery when the car isnt running. This is usually on the rear of the head unit, or with the bunch of cables in the car that go to the rear of the head unit itself.

Your head unit will need an output signal socket, typically a phono cable, to run the signal to the amp for your sub, and you can buy them (phono cables) with a 3rd cable in the middle to use as the ignition wire. I'm not that familiar with US setups, so I will bow out at this point, but thats how the install bit works, and what the ignition wire is as far as I am aware.

Ive never looked into changing the speakers, Ive only ever installed subs in to cars, so cant really help there and hopefully someone more helpful will be along soon.


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## mdrake (Jan 31, 2008)

Like moonfly wrote you will need an amp to power the woofer. Here is a link to an amp install guide.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-SqG6IwgtdqZ/learn/learningcenter/car/amplifiers_install_tips.html

You will need an amp kit and a line out converter. 

This is for a Ford but gives you a good idea of the steps necessary to wire up the amp to the factory deck.
http://www.ehow.com/how_6081100_wire-radio-2005-ford-f150.html

I hope this helps. 

Matt


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## Hunter844 (Apr 22, 2007)

Moonfly said:


> Your head unit will need an output signal socket, typically a phono cable, to run the signal to the amp for your sub, and you can buy them with a 3rd cable in the middle to use as the ignition wire. I'm not that familiar with US setups, so I will bow out at this point, but thats how the install bit works, and what the ignition wire is as far as I am aware.


Thanks for the info.

The Delco head unit has a long white cap screwed onto the end...that may be the phono cable output socket...not sure. I wish I could find some information on this stock stereo so wouldn't have to pull it out of the dash to investigate. I do know right next to the wire cluster is an unused plug I assume that would be for additional speakers (rear speakers?)

In any case I'd like to plan this all out before performing surgery. 

The Kenwood subwoofer manual suggests tapping into each speaker to send signal to the subwoofer and then back to the speakers post-crossover. I'd rather use a phono to rca cable coming off the head unit to the sub (if applicable) like you would in a home theater setup. I'd like to avoid running that many wires if at all possible and don't really think it's necessary to amplify the dash and door speakers.

My aim in all this is simply to upgrade from stock, but I don't want it coming out looking like a 16-year old kid got a hold of my truck with a butter knife and electrical tape. I know I could build a nice custom sub for this but I already have one not being used and it should do fine, may as well use it instead of having it lay around.

I have thought about just getting a new head unit, one that particularly is a Digital Media Receiver with no cd. I'd like to find one that is Android Friendly (Droid X specifically) and all I'm seeing so far is Ipod/Iphone friendly. The reason being is I'd like to possibly take advantage of using the Pandora radio app.


Thanks again for your help...anyone else please chime in. I have a good idea what I want to do...just don't always have the know-how to put it all together and do it right.


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## mdrake (Jan 31, 2008)

Thanks for the info.

The Delco head unit has a long white cap screwed onto the end...that may be the phono cable output socket...not sure. I wish I could find some information on this stock stereo so wouldn't have to pull it out of the dash to investigate. I do know right next to the wire cluster is an unused plug I assume that would be for additional speakers (rear speakers?)

In any case I'd like to plan this all out before performing surgery. 

The Kenwood subwoofer manual suggests tapping into each speaker to send signal to the subwoofer and then back to the speakers post-crossover. I'd rather use a phono to rca cable coming off the head unit to the sub (if applicable) like you would in a home theater setup. I'd like to avoid running that many wires if at all possible and don't really think it's necessary to amplify the dash and door speakers.

_To do a really clean install we used to take the signal from the rear speakers into the inline converter that converts the signal from the speaker wire into an rca connector. Then we could avoid pulling the stock deck out. We ran the amp kit wires to the amplifier mounted close to the subwoofer. Doing this avoided lost of extra wires and problems associated with removing the stock deck. _

My aim in all this is simply to upgrade from stock, but I don't want it coming out looking like a 16-year old kid got a hold of my truck with a butter knife and electrical tape. I know I could build a nice custom sub for this but I already have one not being used and it should do fine, may as well use it instead of having it lay around.

I have thought about just getting a new head unit, one that particularly is a Digital Media Receiver with no cd. I'd like to find one that is Android Friendly (Droid X specifically) and all I'm seeing so far is Ipod/Iphone friendly. The reason being is I'd like to possibly take advantage of using the Pandora radio app.
_Adding an aftermarket deck is differently the best way to go about it. It can be tricky to remove the stock deck and a lot of GM vehicles need an install kit that sticks out from the dash and looks funny. _


Thanks again for your help...anyone else please chime in. I have a good idea what I want to do...just don't always have the know-how to put it all together and do it right.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

Everything said by the above posts is good info. The adaptor that you need is a high to low level adaptor that brings the speaker wire voltage down to respectable levels for the amp. An easy location for you to locate an ignition wire on your S-10 is behind the knee kick panel right below the steering wheel, remove it and use a test light to locate it. I don't recall what color the wire is but if memory serves me it is a pink wire.:T


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

He wouldn't need a high to low level adaptor as the Kenwood KSC-WA801 has both high and low level inputs.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

Mike P. said:


> He wouldn't need a high to low level adaptor as the Kenwood KSC-WA801 has both high and low level inputs.


If that is the case then true. Thanks for the clarification, i haven't looked the sub up online.:T


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

> The Delco head unit has a long white cap screwed onto the end...that may be the phono cable output socket...not sure.


If it does have a RCA connection it would most likely be an input for the optional CD shuttle. Which unit do you have?

http://replacementradios.com/index.php?cPath=21_28_79
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/35256-01-s-10-zr2-need-help-audio-system.html#ixzz137qiCodk ​


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

Mike P. said:


> If it does have a RCA connection it would most likely be an input for the optional CD shuttle. Which unit do you have?
> 
> http://replacementradios.com/index.php?cPath=21_28_79
> http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/35256-01-s-10-zr2-need-help-audio-system.html#ixzz137qiCodk ​


Either that or a tape deck, my 2002 S-10 had a tape deck below the dash. it's been so long since i stripped mine and did the full blown install that don't remember how it connected, but i'm sure that it's not a phono in/out, they really did not include input feature like that on older model cars.


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## Hunter844 (Apr 22, 2007)

bambino said:


> Either that or a tape deck, my 2002 S-10 had a tape deck below the dash. it's been so long since i stripped mine and did the full blown install that don't remember how it connected, but i'm sure that it's not a phono in/out, they really did not include input feature like that on older model cars.


I just know there is a white stem about an 1.5 inches long screwed into the back of the unit, bottom center. I guess it could be part of how it mounts, just thought of that. 

Additionally there is a place for a plug sitting right next to main wiring harness, the non used plug is similar to the main harness only it's about half as big. Don't have a clue what either does which is why I'd love to have a manual for that thing, but I can't find one. Don't have a tape deck or cd shuffle installed, but that would make sense for the other unused connections.

All the radio says is R D S on the front (security?), no other model or make but I know it's got to be a Delco.

If I were to buy a new head unit. Would I be able to find a plug converter kit for it? I can do the wiring I just would rather have the option to let it go back to stock if I decided to sell the truck in a couple years. *What I'm wanting may be unrealistic


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

There are wiring adapters for most head units that plug into the factory wiring harness.. You would need to decide what head unit you want and see if three is a wiring adapter for a 2001 S10.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

Hunter844 said:


> I just know there is a white stem about an 1.5 inches long screwed into the back of the unit, bottom center. I guess it could be part of how it mounts, just thought of that.
> 
> Additionally there is a place for a plug sitting right next to main wiring harness, the non used plug is similar to the main harness only it's about half as big. Don't have a clue what either does which is why I'd love to have a manual for that thing, but I can't find one. Don't have a tape deck or cd shuffle installed, but that would make sense for the other unused connections.
> 
> ...


The extention on the rear of the deck is probly to support the unit most have them or something similar. If you were to replace your deck that would be as simple as plug and play as all you have todo is get the particular adaptor for your vehicle and away you go.:T

I think the RDS means Radio data system which would mean that it displays the radio stations song that it is playing so long as the station provides that service. Either that it's for security. It's been awhile since i had my S-10.


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## Hunter844 (Apr 22, 2007)

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/[email protected]

Well this is what I've come up with so far. Still looking for suggestions if anyone has any on speakers and receivers. This should give a good ideal what I'm looking for. 

Note the Sony receiver comes with conversion kit.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

Looks like a nice list that will work with your truck i was going to suggest that you use 6.5" speakers in the doors the dash however is a different story, pop the grill off and you'll see what i mean there is probly only a plate in there with a factory tweeter in it if that is the case it is sized for a 4x6 but you'll find you will need a riser for the speaker due to duct work and possibly modifying the grill not in a cosmetic manner though just on the inside so you have clearance for the driver once it's mounted. 
This is all just coming back to from when i did mine. I had to make a custom plate using MDF in which i soaked in fiberglass resin (just so it wasn't flakey when i mounted it) then had to trim the inner grill to clear the speakers. Once you have it open you'll see what i mean, this is not a tough project it just takes some planning to get those drivers in there. The door speakers will go in no problem.:T


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## Hunter844 (Apr 22, 2007)

bambino said:


> Looks like a nice list that will work with your truck i was going to suggest that you use 6.5" speakers in the doors the dash however is a different story, pop the grill off and you'll see what i mean there is probly only a plate in there with a factory tweeter in it if that is the case it is sized for a 4x6 but you'll find you will need a riser for the speaker due to duct work and possibly modifying the grill not in a cosmetic manner though just on the inside so you have clearance for the driver once it's mounted.


Actually I replaced the heater core yesterday so I had all that out, seemed like there was a good 2 or 3 inches of clearance below. I'm going to look closer at it tomorrow before I order anything. 

I keep comparing between Crutchfield and Sonic Electronix and Sonic seems to be much cheaper...just wonder how reputable they are. Seems pretty legit, website doesn't look like a beginner wrote the code like some of these others I've found after goggling.

I may mosey over to Parts-Express.com too and see what they have to offer. There are a lot of brands I've never heard of before and several others I gave up for dead long ago that are now resurgent. I haven't really cared about car audio in 10 years.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

Good deal that sounds like they should clear in that case.:T As far as Sonix, i believe they are reputable, they have high rackings on some of the sites i've been on. The thing to look out for is weather the product is warrented by them or the manufacturer, at any rate even if they offer the warrenty they should stand by it, might be one of those things to look into before ordering.:T

Oh, i meant to mention earlier on that mine was an 02 so there may be a differance in clearance and whats behind the grill. :dontknow:

Keep us posted.:T


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## Hunter844 (Apr 22, 2007)

Still reading up on a lot of this stuff, I wanting to find a head unit that is droid friendly as I said before. I've found a couple candidates.

Kenwood KDC-MP345U

Dual XHD7714


Feature Desires: 

Hands free calling (bluetooth capabilities)
Pandora Radio Streaming from my Droid X (not sure I'd really use that, but I'd like the option)
External Storage with multiple platform playback ability (Apparently some people are hooking up external hard drives to their head units)


Question on speakers: My truck dash features 4 x 6 speakers, they don't have tweeters that I can tell. I'm wondering if it might be better off to look at 4'' woofers with a conversion kit or should I go with a 4x6 with a tweeter? I'm going for clarity more so than low to mid range performance out of these speakers. I don't plan on running the amp off any of these speakers.

Question 2 on speakers: How important should I base my head unit's rms/channel output vs. what the rms rating on the individual speaker indicates it should be run at? I wouldn't think this would be a big deal but I wonder if just running stock if I would in many cases be under-driving basically about any decent speaker I'd choose.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

Hunter844 said:


> Still reading up on a lot of this stuff, I wanting to find a head unit that is droid friendly as I said before. I've found a couple candidates.
> 
> Kenwood KDC-MP345U
> 
> ...


The Headunit is going to be all you my friend as i've been out of the car audio tec thing so long i can't give any advice other then what brands and of the 2 choices you have i would go with the Kenwood due to reputation, i have never owned one but know of several folks that really like them.

Are you planning on driving the speakers off the Headunits amp? 

I would go for the speakers with the tweeter (coaxial) and in the 4x6 size if they will fit. The coaxis will get you more dispersed sound around the vehicle as opposed to having just highs in the door where they will be more directed down low.

On headunits lots of them say they offer say 50watts x4 but with aftermarket speakers they will ask for more and won't be driven comfortably with that power, outboard is the way to go. If you are planning on just using the headunit for driving them then i'd look at the most efficiant speakers with a low watt rating so it is able to drive them. 

The claims of power that car audio companies put on there headunits are just that, claims. There is really no way to pack that kind of power and all the processing components into such a tiny unit.


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## Hunter844 (Apr 22, 2007)

Ok here's what I ordered thru Crutchfield...

Sony DSX-S200X (includes in-dash kit, antenna adapter, wire harness adapter)

Kicker 07DS600 (includes bracket kit, wire harness adapter)

Kicker 07DS460 (Crutchfield does not list 4x6 speakers for my vehicle but all the measurements match up...I added a 10 dollar wire harness kit

I'll pick up an amp kit locally. I actually think I may have a lot of what I need laying around in my garage.

Decided to go with Crutchfield because of the added value of the included brackets...it was just easier getting everything in one place even if could have probably saved by shopping around all over the place.


Thanks for everyones help, looks like I'll be putting this together some time thursday or friday. I may rough in the amp kit this weekend.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

That is a nice feature of Crutchfield with all the added components to get the job done and lifetime tec support.:T Good luckwith the project and let us know how it turns out.


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## mdrake (Jan 31, 2008)

Hunter844 said:


> Ok here's what I ordered thru Crutchfield...
> 
> Sony DSX-S200X (includes in-dash kit, antenna adapter, wire harness adapter)
> 
> ...


I think you did great!! You will have a Nice system. 
Let us know how it goes and be sure to take a pic or two. :T

Matt


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## Hunter844 (Apr 22, 2007)

I'm still a little confused on how to best use the pre outs from the HU to the sub amp. Should I bridge the front and rear pre outs using y-adapters lefts and rights to the sub amp? Should I just pick the rear preout and use that?


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

Alot of times "Newer" Headunits will have a seperate RCA output for a sub, you may want to check on it, if not it isn't a big deal.:T


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## Hunter844 (Apr 22, 2007)

bambino said:


> Alot of times "Newer" Headunits will have a seperate RCA output for a sub, you may want to check on it, if not it isn't a big deal.:T


Let me rephrase the question and throw in some bonus questions...

The Head Unit has 3 pairs (F, R, Sub), but I can't run all 3 to a monoamp that I'm aware of. That's why I wondered which would be preferable to use. I would gather there are some advantages to having a 5 channel amp in this case but I don't. 

I'm planning on running speaker wire from the amp to push the speakers. Is it best to tie in around the new head unit plug kit or just run directly to the speaker terminals? Most diagrams I'm seeing illustrate a direct run to each speaker which I'm fine with...just wondered what is common practice. I purchased some double spade terminals to connect to the speakers that way I don't have to splice anything. I ask simply because I didn't know if I was taking the wiring diagrams too literally.

I got the power cable run to the battery today...it all went pretty smoothly. Can't even tell it's there. I have spotted where I want my ground...think it should work pretty well.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

Hunter844 said:


> Let me rephrase the question and throw in some bonus questions...
> 
> The Head Unit has 3 pairs (F, R, Sub), but I can't run all 3 to a monoamp that I'm aware of. That's why I wondered which would be preferable to use. I would gather there are some advantages to having a 5 channel amp in this case but I don't.
> 
> ...



Isn't the sub you have or are getting powerd? IMO a seperate low powerd 4 channel amp will gain you results that will make you grin as opposed to running off the headunit. That scenario would actually be easier as all you would have to do is run RCA's to the amp and speaker wire to your locations. What ever scenario you choose will work.:T


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## Hunter844 (Apr 22, 2007)

Ok it just dawned on me that sub has no speaker outputs. Sorry for the confusing questions. That manual is really odd, at least to me it was. It dawned on me that the directions were more or less like a pro logic or in other words like you would install a subwoofer in a home theater setup if you had no sub out. Duh.


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## Hunter844 (Apr 22, 2007)

To update. 

I got the dash speakers and the door speakers installed today. As warned the dash speakers I will need to revisit once I come up with a plan of attack. Right now I've got them tilted inward with rubber grommets as washers on one side and I managed to get the factory grill to cover but can't completely lock that down to make it look right. I'm gonna look at making my own grill that the speaker will mount up. This dash is so wavy I don't know that it's a matter of just getting some MDF and getting after it.




The door speakers went on great once I discovered my step bit does a number on those rivets in order to remove the factory brackets and put on the aftermarket ones. I may decided to go back in and do some door treatments down the line.

Didn't get a chance to install the head unit, amp, and subwoofer. Just replacing the factory speakers made a huge difference. I can hear tiny details in the music I couldn't before so I feel like I'm on the right track. Pictures to follow...


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

Hunter844 said:


> To update.
> 
> I got the dash speakers and the door speakers installed today. As warned the dash speakers I will need to revisit once I come up with a plan of attack. Right now I've got them tilted inward with rubber grommets as washers on one side and I managed to get the factory grill to cover but can't completely lock that down to make it look right. I'm gonna look at making my own grill that the speaker will mount up. This dash is so wavy I don't know that it's a matter of just getting some MDF and getting after it.
> 
> ...


Glad to hear your making progress. Those rivets should be drilled out only with a regular bit as you have allready discoverd but it sounds like you got things to work out. Door treatments wouldn't be a bad idea, i'm not sure what my truck sounded like before i added mine as i gutted my whole truck and put about 300 sq.ft. of dynamat through out the truck, i had one installer at the shop i used to hang out at comment that he hasn't even heard a BMW that sounded so solid.

Your dash speakers may have kicked you around abit but with some simple planning and a good plan i'm sure you can get them in there, you want them mounted so the front and rear of the driver are isolated from each other to get great sound out of them, look at all the obsticles in the way inculding the grill and see what can be eliminated and what needs to be done. I know they will fit as my dash was just like yours it just took some work. Be sure to keep us posted on your progress.:T


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## Hunter844 (Apr 22, 2007)

Road block right now. 

I either have the wrong adapter or I need some kind of security adapter. The plug kit Crutchfield sent wasn't even close to correct, it has 13 wires and the gm factory plug has 15 wires even at that the plug is completely incompatible. So I got in the truck and started off down the road in the hopes of finding the correct adapter here locally. The truck ran like and died several times so I limped it on back home. Somewhere in the back of my mind I remember somebody telling me the truck won't run without the radio plugged in...something to do with built-in security features.

Anyway...I'm gonna email Crutchfield because they don't list any other plug kit for my truck. I'm lost right now.

Consider the suggestion box officially open 

GM Factory Plug









What Crutchfield Sent


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

That is a similar plug to what you sould have but if is not plugging in then obviously it's wrong. It should be plug and play other then having to hard wire from the wire ends on the adaptor to the Deck then just plug into factory and fire away.

The truck not running right may have something to do with the Deck not being plugged in, did you try plugging the factory unit back in to see if it cured the problem?
I know on newer vehicles (yours would probly fall into this category) all options and needto be connected for things to funtion properly, When you take something out of the loop your breaking the bus and the vehicle won't communicate or function properly.


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## Hunter844 (Apr 22, 2007)

bambino said:


> That is a similar plug to what you sould have but if is not plugging in then obviously it's wrong. It should be plug and play other then having to hard wire from the wire ends on the adaptor to the Deck then just plug into factory and fire away.
> 
> The truck not running right may have something to do with the Deck not being plugged in, did you try plugging the factory unit back in to see if it cured the problem?
> I know on newer vehicles (yours would probly fall into this category) all options and need to be connected for things to function properly, When you take something out of the loop your breaking the bus and the vehicle won't communicate or function properly.


Well I called Crutchfield up and they are sending me a 2002 S10 bracket and plug kit. I got to looking at my factory radio and it was made in 10/2002 so it's either a replacement model with a new factory harness run or my truck has 2002 guts in it. The paper work for my truck says it's a 2001. In any case the 2002 harness I'm seeing everywhere on the internet comes a lot closer to looking like what I need than anything else I've found.

Dude at Crutchfield said he knew of no reason why it wouldn't run without the radio but said the bus system might have been wonky without it and other components...basically what you said. I also had it parked on an incline last night and it may be that some trash in the fuel lines got caught up or something. It's run fine since I got everything plugged back in. 

He's sending another bracket kit, the one they originally sent wasn't exactly lining up but I had it modified so it would work, it was a few mm's too wide and the holes were no where close. 

There must have been a transitional period when GM went to RDS and my truck was part of that transition. Only thing I can figure. You type in all my truck information in Crutchfield for 2001 and it doesn't give you an option for RDS...with 2002 it does.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

Just out of curiousity, has your truck ever been in an accident?

I know the advisors at Crutchfield are fairly knowledgeable and helpful when they can be. Glad to hear they are sending you the correct parts (hopefully).:T


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

I also meant to ask how the indash speakers were coming along.


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## Hunter844 (Apr 22, 2007)

bambino said:


> I also meant to ask how the indash speakers were coming along.


Put that on hold for a while. My idea involves styrofoam, fiber glass and risen and somehow fashion a new mounting surface or the entire bracket and grille in one connection...if that makes any sense.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

I'm with ya. Be aware that fiberglass resin will eat some types of foam. I don't blame ya for putting that one on hold for abit (take care of one issue at a time) there was abit of work invloved in getting mine in properly. When you do get to it i would love to see pics of what and how you fashion them up.:T


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## Hunter844 (Apr 22, 2007)

bambino said:


> I'm with ya. Be aware that fiberglass resin will eat some types of foam. I don't blame ya for putting that one on hold for abit (take care of one issue at a time) there was abit of work invloved in getting mine in properly. When you do get to it i would love to see pics of what and how you fashion them up.:T



Do you have any pictures of how you did yours? Need some visual stimulus.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

I wish i did. That was many years ago, i may still have the plates i made to get them to fit lying around at my mothers house, i usually make it up there once a week so i'll do some digging around.:T

They were basically a riser made from MDF, i remember having to modify the grill on the inside to clear that, it did nothing as far as cosmetics go so everything looked stock on the outside.


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## Hunter844 (Apr 22, 2007)

Got everything installed...haven't had a real good chance to set everything up yet. I'll do that tomorrow. Got the sub working, haven't hooked up the amp to the door speakers...I decided I wasn't real happy with how I had planned to do it so I scraped the install on that. I think I'll wait till after deer season and do some door treatments and worry about all that stuff then.

I am going to have to modify the trim that goes around the Sony because it's too wide and won't allow the dash panel to set right. You'd think Double Din would mean DOUBLE DIN but everything about my truck has been about as odd ball as it can be. I did not have to cut the rear support up in the dash which I didn't want to do in case I decide to sale this truck I think I'm gonna want this Sony...so far it seems pretty awesome.


Thanks again for everyone's help and suggestions. I'll get it cleaned up and take some pictures although won't be much to see. I do plan to eventually do a custom sub build, possibly a couple SSA ICON 10's and a hearty amp to season to taste.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

Glad to hear everything is going good. Be sure to post pics of your progress along the way.:T


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## Hunter844 (Apr 22, 2007)

1. What's SOP on where to set the LPF and the HPF. I think I've got both set on 120hz. This Sony has a lot of EQ features I'm still going through...right now I have it on the Xplode preset. There's also 3 different slope options I haven't read up on. When I started working through this everything sounded pretty flat and there were obvious nulls in the music. I turned on the EQ7 option and it was a completely different system.

2. At the sub, I've got the LPF set on 50hz meaning it's completely open down to 50hz (unless I've misunderstood). My thinking is to let the receiver manage this much like you would in Home Theater...AM I WRONG?

3. Can I set the gain accurately on a powered sub using my SPL meter? I've read up on how you set the gains and most say to use a volt meter but there would be nothing to hook onto with a powered sub without taking it all apart. I've got it tuned in as best I can by ear right now.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

Hunter844 said:


> 1. What's SOP on where to set the LPF and the HPF. I think I've got both set on 120hz. This Sony has a lot of EQ features I'm still going through...right now I have it on the Xplode preset. There's also 3 different slope options I haven't read up on. When I started working through this everything sounded pretty flat and there were obvious nulls in the music. I turned on the EQ7 option and it was a completely different system.
> 
> 2. At the sub, I've got the LPF set on 50hz meaning it's completely open down to 50hz (unless I've misunderstood). My thinking is to let the receiver manage this much like you would in Home Theater...AM I WRONG?
> 
> 3. Can I set the gain accurately on a powered sub using my SPL meter? I've read up on how you set the gains and most say to use a volt meter but there would be nothing to hook onto with a powered sub without taking it all apart. I've got it tuned in as best I can by ear right now.


I've always done my gain tuning by ear to get everything balanced. I would try setting the sub crossover at 80hz. If possible set your highs at 80 or so as well, if not set the sub abit higher. When i did car audio i usually used the amplifiers built-in crossover for settings. Be sure to let me know if this is of any help.:T


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## Hunter844 (Apr 22, 2007)

You can pretty well set the LPF and HPF any way you want it. I think it goes to 200hz on HPF and down to like 30hz on LPF.


*Early impressions of the Sony DSX-S200X*

You can tell a difference in quality between the various codecs I have on a USB stick. I tested some AAC 256k songs on it and it played them, pretty sure it plays 320k Mp3 files as well, not sure about WMA best lossy. When you hit on some highly compressed songs...there is a SQ difference. I find myself having to turn it up at times because of that.

It's awesome using the remote to search through music...the system is pretty responsive which was surprising after reading many of the reviews on these AM/FM Digital Media Receivers. Many described them as clunky and the menu functions horrible. Not my experience at all. I thought I would hate the remote but it's not that bad really. The negative being I fear it's destine to be lost and there is no other way to access the menu functions without it.


Pros: 

1. No more CD's...I'm using a very basic Scandisk 4gb USB stick and the sound quality is as good if not better than CD's. The manual "suggests" you must use SONY USB products with this...so far that's not true.

2. Wide range of EQ functions, and they are very responsive unlike other built-in EQ's I've listened to in the past.

3. The receiver has a internal tray that you can put an ipod in or other device, cool but I don't know that I'll use it much.

CONS:

1. No lossless codec support (didn't expect it but still a con IMO)

2. Would like better support for Android based phones.

3. Heat could be an issue, this thing does get hot in that tray and it warns about that. I've thought about getting a computer fan and mounting behind it somehow. Probably won't worry about it...but it was a thought.

Other thoughts: 

Sony spends a lot of time in their manual confusing the reader or at least there seems to be several things that contradict themselves when actually operating the unit. It says you CANNOT insert the USB stick without first starting the engine. Well if you do this and start up the engine it goes to looking for the USB stick that's not there anymore. No point in it...I leave it in and there are no problems. There are some other procedural things that are either unnecessary or written completely wrong. It's SONY....you tend to expect these types of things but as long as the product does what it's supposed to that's all you can ask even if the owner's manual makes no sense.

One other thing I'm missing...the auto volume adjuster. I didn't realize how much I liked that feature until it wasn't there anymore.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

On the auto-volume thing are you refering to how on the factory setup the volume of the radio goes up or down dependent upon the speed your going or exterior or interior volumes?


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## Hunter844 (Apr 22, 2007)

bambino said:


> On the auto-volume thing are you refering to how on the factory setup the volume of the radio goes up or down dependent upon the speed your going or exterior or interior volumes?


Yes...if it's a feature on this Sony I have yet to find it.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

That is kind of a nice touch that some factory radio's come with but i have yet to find it on anything aftermarket.


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## Hunter844 (Apr 22, 2007)

Hello, I'm unclear on what amp would work best for a MB QUART RLP254 10'' 600 watts peak/300 rms at 4-ohms dual voice coil. 

Mainly I'm confused on how to size up a car amp for instance. Say I'm looking for 400 watts at 4 ohms...does that mean I need to be looking for an amp that says 200 watts x 2 @ 4ohms? Would it be better to stay with a mono block since I do not plan to power the other speakers in my set up?

I have been looking at the Crunch GPV700.2 sold via an online retailer.


Also if anyone has any words of wisdom regarding the MP Quart line or something comparable I'm all ears...I'd like to order sometime this weekend and possibly begin building the enclosure.



Thanks in advance!


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## Hunter844 (Apr 22, 2007)

Anyway...

Here is my recent addition.

MB Quart RLP304 12'' Shallow Mount 300WRMS @ 4 ohm double vc
Boston Mobile Audio GT400m Class D amp 400WRMS @ 2 ohms
Enclosure: Sealed .75^3
Other Notes: Used regular expanding foam as sound deadener in the cavities in that real wall, it made a huge difference.

No fancy stats...I can hear it just fine and so can the neighbors.






















Got to go back and remount when I get some self drilling screws long enough, my butterfly bolt idea didn't pan out.


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## Mgolbois (Feb 25, 2010)

On the dash mounted speakers on some blazers they had a tweeter mounted in there. There's a bracket that fits in there that you mount the tweeter to. My 1999 4x4 blazer s-10 had tweeters in the dash mounted speakers. Still have my old brackets if you are still interested. 

marc


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