# JBL 2262H Box Design



## slyons

Ladies & Gentlemen,

I was building a set of tower speakers with a 2446j & a 2206. I was in the final stages and ready to construct. Then, I came across some literature about the new JBL D2 compression drivers and had to have them. I bought a set of the D2's and decided I wanted the new directional drive neo transducers to go long with them.

My question is, would some one be so kind to run the 2262h for a ported enclosure through the software. I would like to use a square port in a 2sqft box. What would the port dimensions be and what would the tune be?

I have attached the Theile parameters below: 

MODEL FS QTS QMS QES VAS EFF PE XMAX RE LE SD BL MMS FLUX
2262H 56.8 0.34 2.79 0.39 49.2 2.2 700 8 5.2 0.0547 18.0 68 392


P.S. If anyone is interested in a set of 2446j's & 2206's with 2380A horns msg me.


----------



## slyons

Anyone? Please...lol


----------



## Paulcet

I'd love to help, but I'm a bit of a NOOB. I did try, but there is a nasty bump at 58Hz... Doesn't make sense to me. Maybe the TS parameters are not right, or I read them wrong. In any case, I don't think your port size will matter much, unless you have some constraint on your cabinet dimensions.


----------



## chrapladm

WinISD will tune the port to the Fs of the speaker.(56.8) Are you wanting a single driver in 2cuft tuned to 60hz?


----------



## slyons

I was building the cabinets for the 2206's. The wood is already purchased and been cut. The cabinets are solid mahogany and the original size was 2 cf for the 2206 with a 4" square port 7" long. I would like to keep the 2 cf box size because it works for the size of the horn which is going in the cabinet too. I would like to get the tune down to 45hz +/-, if possible with 2cf. I need port size and length. I am also open to a box smaller than 2cf if needed for SQ.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## slyons

I installed it and added the 2262h into the database and plugged in the theile parameters. Manipulated the the chamber cf to 2cf. Not sure what the port tune is... 

In WinISD where is the port tune read out?


----------



## chrapladm

In 2cuft feet and a square 4" port the port needs to be 7.3" for a 45hz tune.

Also in your build what are you crossing the woofer at?(Lp) 

Will you have be using a subwoofer? 

You can use any tune you would like for your application but I am curious to know because with the 4" port you have a 927hz 1st port resonance. Also when using enough power to push the driver to Xmax you will be at 27m/s.

If you click on the vents tab in the driver windo you should see size, length and 1st port resonance.


----------



## slyons

chrapladm,

I have an 18" tc sounds 5100 in an LLT. The intent of this driver is mid-bass/midrange to 1000hz or there about. What would be optimal. The compression driver will come in at approx 500hz - 10k. The HP for the 2262h would be at 45hz and LP at 1000hz +/-? What does first port resonance reflect? Is that an optimal location for the LP filter? These cabinets will be bi-amped with a crown DCi 4|300N with DSP. 

Your help is appreciated thanks for the port info.


----------



## chrapladm

With a 930hz port resonance I would shoot for a 460hz Low pass on the woofer. That will keep the resonance out of the pass band of the woofer. 

With the 5100 driver you will have plenty of midbass from that subwoofer design. Are you trying to use the 12 with out a subwoofer or would you mind tuning higher?

I like the JBL in 2cuft 55hz tuning myself. I myself and building a 2 way subwoofer system that will go from 2-300hz. I will be tuning my 15" to 55hz also. The 15 will be used for the midbass part of the subwoofer system. (60-300) When using a subwoofer also, I like tuning around 60hz. If I wanted to use the speaker without a subwoofer than I would use a sealed cabinet.

I also like the 12" in a 1.5cuft cabinet 55hz tune. Has a F3 of 60hz while the 2cuft 45hz tune has a F3 of 90hz.

1.5cuft 55hz tune using a single 4" square port will need to be 6.15" long. 1st port resonance of 1100hz also. That would make the woofer useable up to 550hz Low pass. BUT that would also mean 32-33m/s.

Did you say you have to use a 4" port?


----------



## chrapladm

Here is a 1cuft, 1.5cuft and a 2cuft comparison. Each have enough wattage to hit Xmax just below their tuning. 1cuft and 1.5cuft are tuned to 55hz. The 2cuft cabinet is 45hz.


----------



## slyons

Thank you... No. actually a circle would be ok at 4" too. Does the port resonance change much with a circle port?


----------



## chrapladm

You only have to worry about the volume of the port. SO square or circle does not matter. BUT it becomes a balancing act when trying to get port resonances an octave higher than pass band and have port speed low enough.

SO if wanting to use a woofer to 500hz you need to get a port resonance around 1000hz or higher while also keeping port speed down.


----------



## maryjane

So you have the D2's. I just joined yesterday to get REW. What horns are you using the D2 on? I happen to have two sets of the JBL Marquis and am planning on getting the D2's for my high frequency wave guides. MD2, MD3 and MD7's. Right now I am using the 2450SL drivers but, as you know, they don't go up all that high without EQ. And I want the D2's so I don't have to use tweeters. Probable hardly anyone here knows what the D2 is.


----------



## maryjane

Say, what did you have to pay for your new drivers? I suppose you bought them new? And are you happy with them?


----------



## slyons

Here are some pics of the construction. The cabinets are made of solid mahogany tongue grooved then miter locked on the corners. 

Todays pics are just mocked up for fit prior to assembly.


----------



## chrapladm

Look pretty awesome so far. :T


----------



## daopi

Why did you chose mohagany?


----------



## slyons

I picked Mahogany because of availability, workability & finish qualities.


----------



## slyons

Gluing & Clamping


----------



## chrapladm

Need more clamps. :T


----------



## slyons

Corner glued & filled


----------



## slyons

Corners Glued and filled


----------



## slyons

JBL D2's mounted to JBL Horns


----------



## maryjane

I think those are the 2352 horns. I've had those in the past. At one time I was thinking about doing something about like you are doing now.


----------



## chrapladm

What did you use to fill the seem on the horn?

I have some horns I thought about doing the same thing to. Although I am not sure I can get on the inside well enough.


----------



## slyons

The horns are new from JBL, and came the way they look from the factory. The throat is 1.5" which is what was needed for the D2's. I had to fab new holes to be able to mount the driver onto the horn flange. I can't recall the horn model number but I believe it is 2352. They are 90x50 degrees


----------



## chrapladm

I have some 90x50 8" wave guides and at the seems, right down the middle, there is a small gap. So I thought about filling it in because I dont like to see it. Just thought you did the same with yours.


----------



## slyons

My D2's will have the HP CO @ 630hz the lower limit for the horn. Is there a reason you are crossing your D2's over at 1500hz other than preference? Do the D2's not perform well in the lower frequencies?


----------



## slyons

chrapladm,

I have a 2cf enclosure but, with the change in horn, I need to LP filter to be at 630hz for the 2262. What port size will get me a 1st resonance of 1260hz? I haven't put the top piece of the enclosure inside the cabinet yet either, so I can change the internal CF if need be, as the change would occur inside the enclosure and not effect the end result.

Thank you in advance.


----------



## chrapladm

slyons said:


> chrapladm,
> 
> I have a 2cf enclosure but, with the change in horn, I need to LP filter to be at 630hz for the 2262. What port size will get me a 1st resonance of 1260hz? I haven't put the top piece of the enclosure inside the cabinet yet either, so I can change the internal CF if need be, as the change would occur inside the enclosure and not effect the end result.
> 
> Thank you in advance.


Are you porting at 60hz or which do you prefer?

DO you want a slow port or round ports? Single double or triple?

I had a hard time finding a suitable port size for my new design so it takes time in figuring out which one. PLUS I didnt know what look you were going for visually for your finished cabinets.


----------



## slyons

chrapladm,

I'd like to do one port. I would like it to be square. I would also like the port wind speed to be as low as possible. I will round corners in and out but. still want it slow as can be. We had discussed a 4" port on the prior occasion. I would like to stay there if possible. I can do two ports if necessary to achieve desired results.


----------



## slyons

on another note a port tune of 45 to 60hz is fine.


----------



## chrapladm

2cuft 60hz ported 5.75" round port 5.46" long 1st port resonance 1239hz and 800watts. Hpass 55hz Takes about 800watts.

After that anything lower becomes difficult. Not saying it cant be done but when using maximum wattage the woofer appears to be leaning very hard on the port to gain extension. It is then hard to keep velocity really low. I could not find a suitable port dimension using a 4" square port with a resonance at 1200hz. 

Slot ports tend to take more velocity before chuffing. Some can take 30m/s and others can take more. BUT the larger ones that can handle 30+m/s will have a resonance around 600 or less.

SO I am still trying to find another port dimension that works tuned lower. BUT this is what I found so far.


----------



## Mike P.

If you want a 1200 hz FPR with a lower tuning frequency then your only option is to reduce the power input to keep the port air speed acceptable.


----------



## slyons

chrapladm,

I wont be putting anything near 800 watts through these speakers as I don't have the amps to do it. So the 800w is fine. I have one question you stated a 5.75" port. What material would you use to build this port? PVC is slightly over 6", so I couldn't use that. Is a square port at the 5.75" +/- workable? I am even open to a slot. I good with a round port just not sure what material I can use to build it.

Thank you for the help.


----------



## chrapladm

I haven't found a suitable slot port size yet. The round port I suggested above I would recommend using PVC. 

I built my own port on my subwoofer cabinet using multiple layers of 1/2" and 3/4" plywood. I used my circle jig and cut LOTS of circles. Then on the entry side I used 1.25" thick piece and used a 1" roundover. Glued everything up and installed to the panel. Then sanded the inside smooth. Applied filler where needed and sanded again. 

End result was it looked like PVC but was just another DIY job. Just another option.

And it you want a slow port and want a certain look then how much power are you going to use? Or how much power do you have available?

Like Mike said if you are only using 150watts that changes things a LOT. BUT if using maximum power the it limits you to the dimension I said above.


----------



## slyons

I have 300 watts available currently per woofer. However, in the future I may add more so that's why I was leaving the design at the levels you had set for possible future power expansion. I think designing the cabinet to maximize the power handling of the woofer is best. That's a good idea for the port construction. I talked to my buddy who has access to 3D printers who told me he can do it so, I may go that route.


----------



## slyons

Quick question... You stated you used 800 watts. Within the Theile parameters it lists the Pe at 700 watts. Does that effect your design?


----------



## Mike P.

Just throwing this out there, if port air speed will be a problem then a passive radiator would be a solution.


----------



## slyons

Are they expensive? Who makes the best TC Sounds? Are they in lieu of the port or in combination with the port?


----------



## chrapladm

No. I dont really look to much into RMS. Its a number that doesnt always mean much to me within reason of coarse.

There are so many factors that go into determining what the driver can actually handle. I have always had at least double the RMS power needed for my designs if I can afford it. JBL builds very high quality designs. They can take punishment just like the best of them.

PLUS I dont have the compression spec for the 2262H woofer with RMS power. It might have a 3db compression at rms power so having only 700watts would not get you to Xmax anyways. So as I babble on 800watts would be fine. 

If using 300watts to each speaker you should only have 17m/s from the 5.75" port. SO very good numbers. And pretty steady at 119db at 70hz and above. So plenty loud with just one 12". Add 6db on that with the second 1" and 300watts. :T

SO adding a bigger amp would be nice for headroom but probably never used. I design for it but usually only use about 40% of my woofers capabilities. And I like to crank things up.

Will you be using a subwoofer with these?

If so 300watts will be monstrous. You will need a Hpass at 37hz 2nd order. Will post simulation shortly.

And as Mike said they would be the port. SO no port just a passive radiator. You would most likely need a pair of PR's also. S


----------



## Mike P.

slyons said:


> Are they expensive? Who makes the best TC Sounds? Are they in lieu of the port or in combination with the port?


A PR replaces the port. I'll do some modelling and we'll see what comes up.


----------



## Mike P.

A CSS APR 12 would work, it would tune the box to 48 hz. Power input is 600 watts with a hi pass filter at 40 hz.


----------



## slyons

Mike,

So one PR per cabinet will work? I do like the lower tune thats available because of the PR.

chrapladm

I will be using a sub with this set up. I have a TC Sounds 5100 18" in an LLT.


----------



## Mike P.

Yes, one PR per driver.


----------



## slyons

Mike,

Can I use any PR or was that modeled off of the CSS? I took a look at the CSS & I wasn't a fan of how it looks. 

(updated) However I just saw another post where it had a dust cap to cover that center pole. Is the CSS top notch compared to the others? I have never used a radiator and a total noob to radiators.

What weight did you model?

How is this Dayton?

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sd315-pr-12-passive-radiator--295-496

Specifications: • Fs: 17 Hz • Vas: 5.20 cu. ft. • Qms: 3.00 • Cms: 0.45 mm/N • Mms: 200 g • Rms: 7.03 kg/s • Sd: 480 sq. cm. • Xmax: 10 mm • Dimensions: Overall diameter: 12.36", Cutout diameter: 10.71", Depth: 3.50".

or

https://www.parts-express.com/ess-689-12p-12-cast-frame-passive-radiator--264-626

Specifications: • Fs: 18 Hz • Vas: 4.44 cu. ft. • Qms: 2.30 • Cms: 0.31 mm/N • Mms: 250 g • Rms: 12.4 kg/s • Sd: 535.8 sq. cm. • Xmax: 11 mm • Dimensions: Overall diameter: 12-3/8", Cutout diameter: 11-1/8", Depth: 3-1/2".

TC Sounds

http://www.parts-express.com/tc-sounds-vmp-12-passive-radiator--293-680


----------



## maryjane

At one time I considered buying the woofers you have so I hope this is in keeping with this thread. I’m not an expert nor engineer. However, in the past almost 50 years I have owned over $200,000 worth of Altec, JBL, Klipsch, Infinity, and Harman Kardon products. On several occasions I have contacted these companies to obtain advice for their products and have always gotten answers. Have you considered trying this approach?


----------



## slyons

JBL is not helpful with cabinet design. They have told me on numerous occations that they are not a cabinet designer for their components and they have little available to aid you with it either. They will aid with technical questions about the product but thats it.


----------



## maryjane

In the past JBL has been helpful to me. Gave me box sizes and port length, etc. The JBL dealer who I get products through has often offered to help me with design problems and he consults regularly with JBL. I have no idea what program he uses but it’s probable the same program that the engineers at JBL use to design their products. Probable the same program that EAW, Klipsch, and Meyer Sound uses.


----------



## chrapladm

OP is correct and JBL wont be helping with much of anything other than technical about the product. They are too big and dont have the time. There are hundreds of programs out there that many different companies use to aid in design.


----------



## chrapladm

Sorry for the delay.


----------



## slyons

Gluing Port


----------



## slyons

Gluing Port n


----------



## chrapladm

SO what dimensions did you go with for your port?


----------



## slyons

I ran it through a few port calcs that utilized Xmax first to set min port opening then moved to the port length equation. Then, I utilized WINISD to model the woofer and look at the port velocity.

The final dimensions are 5"x 5"x 5" (square port) with a 1st port res of 1359hz and a port tune of 60.62hz. Woofer will be crossed over at 630hz where the compression driver kicks in. 

I was consumed with the port velocity for awhile. However, within the one of the port calc's I used, it utilized the xmax to give you a min opening to alleviate port noise which, was critical in my moving forward with the square port. I went above the min suggested spec slightly. I knew, I didn't want to go through the trouble of the circle port & my prior experience building bunches of sub enclosures, told me, I was placing to much credibility on the WINISD velocity calc. The JBL 2262HPL is a 12" woofer with a 8mm XMAX. This woofer isn't a big mover and a 5"x 5" port opening, all corners rounded over is plenty in my mind. We'll see if I'm right...

Port Calc

http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31


----------



## slyons

The other thing was I didn't want to spend any more money on this project i.e. PR. As stated earlier, I was going to use other comp drivers and woofers to begin with. Then changed buying both again. Then bought a Crown Drivecore Install 4|300N to power these bi-amped beasts. Then miscellaneous tools etc... I have had all I can take. I want to finish this asap and build the other pair that I was going to do in the first place....lol


----------



## chrapladm

I just used the link you suggested and that port calculator gave me a port diameter of 4.62" I then put that into WinISD and saw that the volume of the port both looked the same on both WinISD and the calc. But when looking at port resonance it is 670hz. That was what I got with my simulation for my 8's. So how did you figure out your port resonance for your ports? 

For me I am crossing a LOT higher than a typical sub. Just as you are.


----------



## slyons

I used WinISD for 1st port res.. I didn't have another tool. I also wasn't aware that you needed to half the 1st resonance for your cross point. It's never been an issue in the past working with purely subs because the cross point has always been more than half by luck. I noticed that messing around with winisd. Thanks for the heads up. I also noticed that shorter ports lead to higher 1st port res too.


----------



## slyons

I also solved another issue. The Theile numbers given by JBL are a mixture of imperial & metric. I installed WinISD via imperial numbers. When modeling the woofer, I knew something was wrong. I had to convert Sd and xmax to their proper place to get the model to run correctly. I could tell something was wrong because of the indicated speaker SPL during parameter entry. A couple of google converter calcs fixed me up.


----------



## slyons

Modeled Transfer Function & SPL


----------



## slyons

Almost Done


----------



## slyons

Woofer Holes Cut


----------



## chrapladm

Baffle looks good. That port is confusing me so I am waiting to see how it turns out. I was picturing the cabinet finished and I just cant picture the opening and exit for the port. :huh:


----------



## Mike P.

chrapladm said:


> Baffle looks good. That port is confusing me so I am waiting to see how it turns out. I was picturing the cabinet finished and I just cant picture the opening and exit for the port. :huh:


+1.


----------



## slyons

The port runs from the center of the box to the righ. The port's measurement starts at the center and runs the five inches. So instead of going straight in the five inches it runs along the back wall.


----------



## slyons

Finally got around to working on cabinets. Here is a pic of the port complete...


----------



## slyons

Another


----------



## NBPk402

slyons said:


> Here are some pics of the construction. The cabinets are made of solid mahogany tongue grooved then miter locked on the corners.
> 
> Todays pics are just mocked up for fit prior to assembly.


You have some mad skills there!


----------



## slyons

Stained


----------



## slyons

Tomorrow I will install the terminals, the speakers and listen to them. This has been a long project. I am excited to hear these things finally....


----------



## Mike P.

And we're waiting to hear what your impressions are. :T


----------



## slyons

Complete


----------



## chrapladm

So.........sound? How do they sound?


----------



## slyons

Not sure yet working on getting amp and dsp set first. Should know by late tonight tomorrow


----------



## slyons

They sound amazing. The bass is real tight, crisp. There is no port noise or resonance etc. The compression drivers are way more efficient than the woofers so I had to reduce the output by 20% to get them in-line with the woofers at volume. The woofers are impressive and sound smooth with realistic voices. The compression drivers sound realy nice. I was concerned about the highs and their quantity but there is more than I need with plenty in reserve.


----------



## slyons

From the couch. Ignore my center channel support...lol


----------



## slyons

Just wanted to give an update on the speakers. It has been a few weeks and several movies and hours of stereo play. I am very impressed with these speakers. I have been listening to a bunch of jazz to really see how musical they are. The JBL D2 compression drivers are impressive. The instruments sound like they are in the room. They play louder than I need or desire and that's impressive to say the least. The JBL 2262H's sound very clean. The lows are solid as can be expected with the limited 300w they are recieving. I don't have a meter but these bad boys will play at reference for as long as you desire them too.

If you want a awesome set of main speakers for cinema and stereo needs these will not disappoint. They ran me about 2k all in. To buy something comparable from JBL it's a min of $5200 (VTX touring) all the way to 10K (M2 Studio Towers) for a pair.


----------

