# Digital crossover/PEQ for integrating sub with active monitors - DCX2496?



## Pyronious (Dec 29, 2012)

I have a pair of Mackie HR-824 active monitors and although they have very good response (39Hz - 20kHz +/- 1.5dB), I would like to add a sub to reach down deeper. I'm thinking about adding a Rythmik F12 or F12G, but my source device (M-Audio FW410 recording interface) does not have any bass management features. Also, the Rythmik sub does not offer pass-through inputs for balanced signals. As such I will need to add a crossover via an external device.

Based on my research it looks like the Behringer DCX2496 will do what I want, which is:

1. Accept a digital input signal (AES/EBU up to 24/96)
2. Output balanced XLR signals to L & R channels (with optional PEQ)
3. Output balanced XLR signal (summed L+R) to to separate sub channel (with configurable crossover)

If you have any thoughts about this setup or alternative recommendations I'd love to hear them before I take the plunge.

Also, I've heard some people talk about hiss on the DCX2496. I'm curious if this is a result of using the DCX2496 in analog input mode (which requires A/D then D/A conversion of the signal path). I wonder if the unit is quieter if you feed it a digital signal (bypassing A/D) and just using the D/A converter at the end of the chain. Has anyone experimented with this?

Thank you!


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## jeffreyfranz (Jul 27, 2012)

I don't have an answer on the noise or hiss question, as I have never used the unit. Secondhand information: From reading on other forums/sites, it seems that the Behringer gear (crossover, room analysis/EQ, etc.) works pretty well for practical use (stage and studio, working-musician-type uses), especially if you can accept having to send units back sometimes. For an ambitious, high-end audio system, this is probably not the best choice. Good luck.


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## Pyronious (Dec 29, 2012)

Thanks for the info. I'm pretty comfortable with studio/live sound gear and have stuff lying around so that's why I headed in this direction. I am concerned about sound quality (thus the desire to EQ my signals and treat the room), but I also realize that these parts are not "high end" by the standards of many in this community.

I've used some Behringer stuff in my touring package, and while it's very functional and generally sounds good, I do find that the reliability can be hit/miss. I have an HA8000 that "works fine" but sometimes I have to turn it off and on a few times before it "boots up" properly. 

Cheers!


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

Pyronious said:


> Also, I've heard some people talk about hiss on the DCX2496. I'm curious if this is a result of using the DCX2496 in analog input mode (which requires A/D then D/A conversion of the signal path). I wonder if the unit is quieter if you feed it a digital signal (bypassing A/D) and just using the D/A converter at the end of the chain. Has anyone experimented with this?


The hiss issue seems to be hit-and-and miss, with people on both sides adamantly claiming it does or doesn’t exist, and the latter claiming the former just haven’t set up their system gain structure correctly. Assuming most of what you’ve seen about it is coming from the same group of people that I’ve seen it coming from, namely home theater enthusiasts, we can assume the great majority of them are using the DCX’s analog inputs.

Regards, 
Wayne


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## tnbubba (Oct 11, 2012)

good piece but flaky
watch the mods from Jan didden and philgram as the quality is half the engineering and performance are good but the implementation is questionable..

the dcx is a great piece of home gear but albeit flaky..It does up sample everything to 24/96 to process so make sure you feed it a native 24/96 in for best performance..

weakness of stock dcx..input clock.. ribbon cables.. output stage... moo PS and the board itself uses traces.

1) get rid of the stock clock.. the kit pihlgam sells is the best.. but do the work yourself or have somebody who can solder do it..His soldering sux.
2) replace the stock digital xlr with sdpif from canare(75ohm) or neutrick nc3cc series aes/ebu input connector
and wire the digital input directly to the input transformer on the board. bypass those moo ribbon cables
the dcx is a rf nightmare this helps a lot

those two mods will get you 90% to peak of the dcx

I can recommend replace the i.o board as it does clean up sound a lot( the stock design sux but the other mods are really needed to get a good digital signal in to the dcx
REMEMBER the stock dcx takes everything to 24/96 for processing so even with clock mods n need to feed it 192 signals..



its a great piece of home gear for the $$ even with the mods.. ROAD worthy.. NO WAY


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