# Need Some help With Speaker Building



## jaysant1 (Feb 1, 2010)

Mike, you had helped me out to design a subwoofer a little while back. (I'm the guy using the velodyne ampliers). I am also building a set of speakers. I would like to get started on everything soon as the weather is finally warm enough to make standing in my garage bearable. I need help optimizing the enclosure volumes for two types of drivers. My woofers will be Seas W26FX-001 and my midrange Drivers are Scanspeaks 18w/8545. What do you recommend for each driver sealed or ported? And if you could get me their optimum volumes and tuning frequencies (if necessary). They will be used 755 for Music and 25% for movies. Here are links to all the specs you should need. Enlcosure size is not in issue but I would rather taller and thiner as apposed to shorter and fatter. Thank you for any input.


http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=45_228_258&products_id=786

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=938


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

The truth is I have no experience with speaker building, only subwoofers. I'm sure someone here can join in and help with your project.


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## 1Michael (Nov 2, 2006)

Designing speakers is not as easy as people seem to think. There is more to it than picking some cool drivers and sticking them in a box. If you have not designed a crossover before then I recommend that you don't as a first project. Pick a design that has already been tested:T
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?t=211558&AID=1482282&PID=2777698


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## Guest (Mar 19, 2010)

I agree. Pick something already designed. I'm trying to learn how to design crossovers, and it has many many steps. I hope to have a simple two way done by this summer some time.

I do think Madisound will design a crossover for speakers they sell for a small fee. Still, a full blown design would be better.

Zaph audio already has some designs ready to go on his web site, and maisound. PE has stuff too, but I don't take PE as serious as I do Madisound. They might be the underdog in overall sales, but they also don't have over priced clown designs for people to build either in their speaker projects. PE seems to jump from too cheap, to really expensive (or just crazy), and not much in between. Also, not really the best overall price IMO. Zaph audio is all about the best for the least amount of money, and he carries that over in his designs.


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## jaysant1 (Feb 1, 2010)

I agree with all of you about the crossover. I have a friend who is a very talented electrical engineer and is also a big audio guy. He has built many passive crossover networks. For now all I need is ENCLOSURE VOLUMES so I can build the cabinets properly for the drivers above which I already have. I could easliy use a box calculator but have found that real world experience is always better than computer simulated results. I am looking for nice flat response with excellent musicallity. Large Enclosure size is not an issue. Any help is appreciated.


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## Guest (Mar 20, 2010)

Win ISD is good for that. http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisdpro

I've built a few subs with that and have always had better results then the old brand name stuff I used to buy. It works for any kind of open woofer/driver.


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## 1Michael (Nov 2, 2006)

We use those calculators...
http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=26544


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

It will depend on what kind of bottom end you are looking for, here is the Seas 10" modeled in ported and sealed.


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

Here's the Scan Speak modeled to .3 cu.ft. sealed and crossed over to the Seas woofer at 800 hz. I have no idea if this is a good combination or not.


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## jaysant1 (Feb 1, 2010)

Mike I'm going ported for sure. I had run some of the drivers in WINISD i came up with close to 7cu ft for two drivers port tuned to 23 hz. For the mid drivers I came up with around 3 cu ft ported at 38 hz. I'm going to cut the lowend of the midrange for sure with the crossover probably around 150hz and I want to try to keep the upper crossover beyond 1500hz. Whawt do you guys think offhand. I know it is certainly going to take some playing with but I figured this to be a good starting point.


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## jaysant1 (Feb 1, 2010)

The subs have to be crossed over lower they have some funny impedance stuff and resonances above 200hz from what I remember.

Pretty much I was just adding the two volumes together then building one box inside of the other. Mids totaly seperated from the bass drivers.


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

Crossed over at 200 hz with a 2nd order crossover. 100 watt to each driver.


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## jaysant1 (Feb 1, 2010)

Looks good. Lets hope they still look good in an actual room. thanks for the help. 

Any idea why I'm coming up with a larger enclosure and lower tuning point?


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

Upload the driver file so I can have a look.


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## jaysant1 (Feb 1, 2010)

I don't know how to upload the file but here are the parameters
qts .35
vas 162 L
Fs 20 hz
qms 2.34
qes .41
spl 87db
xmax 7mm

thats about all i have I have 232 mm plugged in for the diameter not sure if that matters or not.


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

What are those parameters from? They aren't from the either driver you linked to in your first post.


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## jaysant1 (Feb 1, 2010)

It's supposed to be the Seas W26FX-001 pulled from the seas website.

If you pulled it from madisounds website their link opens up the wrong speaker for some reason.


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

Then I guess your modeling would be right.


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## jaysant1 (Feb 1, 2010)

OK thanks for the help


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

I did some digging, you are using the wrong parameters as the PDF from Madisound and Seas is the same for the SEAS Excel W26FX-001 (E0026).


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## jaysant1 (Feb 1, 2010)

Can you send a link to your parameters. The only ones i can find were the ones i used. here they are this isnt what you used?

http://www.seas.no/images/stories/excel/pdfdataheet/e0026_w26fx001_datasheet.pdf


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

From Madisound - http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=45_228_258&products_id=786

Fron Seas - http://www.seas.no/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=73&Itemid=97

They are both the same. Your 232 mm diameter threw me off, it should be 205 mm, the other parameters you listed are correct.


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## jaysant1 (Feb 1, 2010)

how did you find out the driver diameter? I don't see it listed anywhere.


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## Mike P. (Apr 6, 2007)

WinISD figures it out, if the Sd is 330 cm2 then the Dd is 205 mm.


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## lsiberian (Mar 24, 2009)

I suggest you start with a kit.


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