# Smurf Tubing Size



## DeanHT (Sep 3, 2010)

I have read several posts on the Carlon FlexPlus Tubing aka "Smurf Tubing". What size do I need to run in the walls to put the speaker wires into and also what size do I need for the wires running to the projector? :scratch: Any recommendations and comments are always welcome. Thanks, Dean


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

Nothing to it. Just measure the diameter of the bundle of cables you need to run to the projector - including the connectors, if you’re running pre-terminated cabling. Then get some Smurf tube that’s a larger diameter than that. :T

Regards,
Wayne


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## ironglen (Mar 4, 2009)

Wish I had run such tubing as I've been in the attic countless times, and its HOT :devil: I'd recommend sizing up in diameter to account for any future runs, that's why you use this type of tubing, right?


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## fitzwaddle (Aug 25, 2010)

I wish I had run some too - I thought I had everything all planned out, but now that the walls are all sealed up, I realize I should have run speaker wire to front L/R subwoofer locations in addition to RCA - building a THT now, and want to keep the power amp in the rack (vs. my original plan of powered subwoofers). So I'll have to dig around in the attic a few more times, and poke/patch my walls - oh well.


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## DeanHT (Sep 3, 2010)

Thanks for the information. Is it better to run the smurf tubing thru the side walls for the speaker wires or do you run the tubing thru the ceiling or does it matter? :help: I also thought that I read somewhere that there are maximum size limits for the size of the hole that you are allowed to cut thru the studs in the walls, and the ceiling. Does anyone have any information on this!! Thanks, Dean


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

Also a good idea is to run a spare piece of wire or string with your bundle for future mods.:T


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## Anthony (Oct 5, 2006)

I ran 1/2" or 3/4" in my old house. Mix of conduit and smurf tube. I really wished I'd gone bigger. I found a couple online places that sell spools of the 1" or 1.5" even for decent prices (been a while though). That would have made snaking data, sub, cable/sat, and 3 speaker lines a lot easier.

So size it for what you think you'll need and then go one or two sizes bigger.


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## ironglen (Mar 4, 2009)

DeanHT said:


> Thanks for the information. Is it better to run the smurf tubing thru the side walls for the speaker wires or do you run the tubing thru the ceiling or does it matter? :help: I also thought that I read somewhere that there are maximum size limits for the size of the hole that you are allowed to cut thru the studs in the walls, and the ceiling. Does anyone have any information on this!! Thanks, Dean


My experience is limited to running wire for cable tv for a college dorm along with my own home, but I'd say it depends on your house and desired lead locations. If you've got load bearing studs/joists to drill through, then it changes things and you've really got to check with a someone qualified to do so. Otherwise, go with the route that intuitively seems best. For instance, I went up through my wall (drilled top 2x4), then over using attic space, and then down through to my 'drop zone' (drilled top 2x4). On the other hand, I just switched to U-verse and the tech came (very nice guy) and I basically told him I had wire the house, just needed to run the main cat5 for the U-verse box (which is included in hook-up) to the center of the home. It was easy, because I had already run a nice strong cable to my garage for my 2nd zone (rca stereo preout) and the garage was the entry point for the signal. So I advised he unplug it and pull the cat5 with it up through a hairy connecting wall up to the second story attic; it took a little to persuade him. It took 15 min vs the first time I fished that path, three hours :sweat: Both Bambino and Anthony's advice is seconded. Every situation will be different. If you run into a specific issue, I'd post here for suggestions or consult an expert.


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## Anthony (Oct 5, 2006)

Oh, alternately, if you are worried about hogging too big of a hole in the studs, go with 1" or 3/4" but then use several parallel runs. In my experience, though, HDMI connectors can't fit through anything less than 1", but speaker, cat5/6, and coax are fine. 2, 1" holes above one another (centered in the stud) is better than a 2" hole.


If that's the route you want to go, plan what you need and run one extra.


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## hakunatata (Aug 20, 2010)

Do you think it would be possible to run 4 cat6 lines in the walls to the various locations instead of the smurftube? I was looking at smurf tube and was afraid of making big holes in my studs, so I was hoping that the 4 strands of cat 6 would future proof me for additional runs later on.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

I have read somwhere (and i'll try to find it) that you don't want to drill holes over 1/3rd the size of your stud or joist. To me that would mean if it is load bearing. I'll look it up later after the twins go to bed and post back what i find.:T


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## Anthony (Oct 5, 2006)

That sounds right. 2x4's are 3.5" wide, so 1" holes are fine by that. 

For joists, you need to make sure that you only drill in the end 1/3's and don't touch the middle.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

Anthony said:


> That sounds right. 2x4's are 3.5" wide, so 1" holes are fine by that.
> 
> For joists, you need to make sure that you only drill in the end 1/3's and don't touch the middle.


Thanks Anthony, i never could find that info i was referring to, as soon as i do i'll post it as i know there are certain guidelines for where and when it's ok to cut holes.:T


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## DeanHT (Sep 3, 2010)

Thanks for the advice. I will probably go with 1" tubing as that will probably serve me better down the road and should allow room for multiple speaker wires, HDMI, etc.


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## waldo563 (Apr 26, 2009)

Most code also requires the hole to be a minimum distance away from the drywall (I think it's something like 1-1/4") so a 1" hole centered in a 2X4 stud should work. I believe this is in addition to the 1/3 stud width limitation and is to prevent wiring or piping running through a properly sized hole which is too close to the drywall surface to be punctured by nails or drywall screws. An edge distance less than this requires a nail plate. I know this is required for new construction but I'm not sure about retrofit work. As has been mentioned, it's also advisable to stay away from the center of joists since that is where the maximum bending stress is.


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## bambino (Feb 21, 2010)

waldo563 said:


> Most code also requires the hole to be a minimum distance away from the drywall (I think it's something like 1-1/4") so a 1" hole centered in a 2X4 stud should work. I believe this is in addition to the 1/3 stud width limitation and is to prevent wiring or piping running through a properly sized hole which is too close to the drywall surface to be punctured by nails or drywall screws. An edge distance less than this requires a nail plate. I know this is required for new construction but I'm not sure about retrofit work. As has been mentioned, it's also advisable to stay away from the center of joists since that is where the maximum bending stress is.


They've also got little steel plates that you put on the stud to protect against a stray nail or screw.:T


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## Anthony (Oct 5, 2006)

I learned the hard way to use one of those plates. I was mounting a shelf in my old workshop and heard a click. I instantly knew the GFCI had just done its job. Had to remove 3 sheets of pegboard and run an new wire (and install metal plates everywhere), but lesson learned and no real damage done (thank you GFCI).


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## sparkymt (May 19, 2010)

taken from hometoys.com : "Load Bearing members (if the member carries the weight of the structure above it): 
A hole can be up to 40% of the width of the member if it is centered.
A notch (a cut out from the side) can be up to 25% of the width of the member.
NON-load bearing members
A hole can be up to 60% of the width of the member
A notch can be up to 40% of the width of the member
So – 
If your walls are 2x4 walls (actually 3.5” wide):
If it is load bearing your hole can be 40% diameter 3.5”X.4= 1.4” or a 1 3/8” hole through which 1 ¼” OD conduit will slide.
If it is non-load bearing your hole can be 60% diameter 3.5”X.6=2.1” or a 2” hole
If your walls are 2X6 walls (5.5” wide) the same math applies
Load bearing up to a 2.2” hole
Non-Load bearing up to a 3.3” hole" 

they also have a good article on things you should and should not do when wiring your home for all things audio/video.


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