# CSS SDX15, HPSA500 build, need help in design.



## doors

Hi Guys,

I am planning to make a sub. It will be my first attempt at DIY, and it will be my first sub. I wont be doing much, just buy the driver and the plate amp and get the cabinet made by a carpenter.

Size – Max size allowed (read WAF) including everything.
24” cube maximum.

My budget is around 700-750$ including shipping in US, but I prefer to do this in around 600$.
I am thinking about a 500W OAUDIO bash amp or ED LT.500 along with a 15” or 18” driver.

I am looking for a 15” or 18” driver. So far from research, I like the AE AV15 (both x and h) and the CSS SDX15. I also thought about the maelstrom, but it needs atleast 1000w power and I cant go for both maelstrom and a 1000w amp. If I get a 1000w amp (around 450$), then the driver has to be below 300$, or I can spend 250 on amp and about 400-500 on driver.

Is a single shiva going to be enough for this much area.
How good is the ED 19Ov.2
Any other good options I should consider.

The sub should be musical, but should also have good SPL for movies. Dual subs are ruled out, though I can have 2 drivers (e.g. shiva 12”) in the same sub, separate amp is ruled out, I have to go for a plate amp, as wife is not ok with another component.

I would prefer a downfiring (due to small kids) sealed sub as those are more musical, and easy to make, but still would want good enough SPL for movies. If it cant be done with sealed, well then I guess it will be ported or PRed.

Listening area

I live in an apartment, the flooring is marble and walls are brick and concrete.
The main listening area is 19.5 x 18.5 x 10.5
3787 cubic feet. The system is kept along the 18.5 ft wall. The listening positions is about 12 ft.

But the Dining and open kitchen is open and attached to it, and the total area is 31.5 ft x 18.5 x 10.5 = 6118 cubic feet
Let me know if a rough diagram of the room will help in suggesting a sub and I will post it.

Usage
50% music and 50% movies
I mainly listen to classic rock, blues, heavy metal, jazz, classical music etc. Watch all sorts of movies from classics to action, scifi etc. 
I am not a bass freak, did I mention its my first sub and dont listen at ear bleeding levels, except maybe once in a while.

Current setup
Yamaha RX-V663, B&W 602 S2 – goes to about 52 hz.

I don’t know much about DIY, so I will be needing a lot of help from you guys. 

Thanx in advance.


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## Mike P.

Here's a SDX15 kit that's designed for a 24 inch cube and fits your budget at $750 shipped. 

http://creativesound.ca/details.php?model=QUARTET15


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## doors

Mike P. said:


> Here's a SDX15 kit that's designed for a 24 inch cube and fits your budget at $750 shipped.


thanx for the reply. This is a good option and a good deal, but I would prefer to avoid a PR if possible, due to small kids at home, more things for them to poke at.


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## Mike P.

Understood. The SDX15 in a 24 inch ported cube would work well with a 1000 watt plate amp and 2 4" flared ports 26 inches long each. It would require the use of elbows to turn the ports to make them fit, or you could use a slot port which would be simple enough for the cabinet maker to build into the cabinet. With room gain this setup would be capable of 116+ db at 20 hz.


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## doors

Mike P. said:


> Understood. The SDX15 in a 24 inch ported cube would work well with a 1000 watt plate amp and 2 4" flared ports 26 inches long each. It would require the use of elbows to turn the ports to make them fit, or you could use a slot port which would be simple enough for the cabinet maker to build into the cabinet. With room gain this setup would be capable of 116+ db at 20 hz.
> 
> View attachment 15502


Thanx. I like the slot port idea, better than a complicated 26" port. Will definitely consider it. Any good sealed options? Would a sealed be good enough for my living room.
Any good 18" options that will fit in my budget?
I am trying to plot some of the drivers in winISD. There does not seem to be any calcualations for the room. How do I know how much room gain/loss will be there. How much db should be enough in my room?


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## Mike P.

18's need more room to gain any SPL or low end extension advantage. The Maelstrom-X and IXL-18 both model the same as the SDX15 in the given box size and amplifier power. A rule of thumb is it takes 2 sealed subs to produce the same output as one ported sub.
Room gain in an average size room is usually around 6 db at 20 hz.


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## doors

Mike P. said:


> 18's need more room to gain any SPL or low end extension advantage. The Maelstrom-X and IXL-18 both model the same as the SDX15 in the given box size and amplifier power. A rule of thumb is it takes 2 sealed subs to produce the same output as one ported sub.
> Room gain in an average size room is usually around 6 db at 20 hz.


how much room gain will be there in a very large room. I guess it should be less than 6db right, more like 3 db??


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## Mike P.

That's hard to say, every room has a different effect due to size, shape, construction materials, sub placement, etc.


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## doors

Hi,

I tried the plot for the sdx-15 in a 6 cuft box with 1000 watts, tuned to 20hz and a 20hz highpass filter. The port velocity goes to about 23 m/s. I read in the forums that the port velocity should not exceed 17 m/s. I also read that with 2 4" ports or one 6" port, there is no need to worry about port velocity. Which of these is true. How much high can I go with a dual 4" port or single 6" port in terms of air velocity. This is the problem I am facing with the designs, either the port velocity shoots up or the port length becomes unmanageable. Any guidelines for these?

I also did a plot of shiva 12", with a 500w amp in a 6.5 cuft box, tuned to about 18-20hz with highpass filter, I see a very similar graph to css sdx-15 with 1000w amp, just a couple of db less for shiva. Is there a sense in going with the css, when a shiva can give me almost similar performance? The shiva setup is going to cost me almost half of the css setup.

Thanx.


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## Mike P.

Keeping the air speed under 26 m/s is usually recommended for HT subs as that is where port compression starts. With flared ports port noise isn't a issue at that speed.

There's more the just a couple of db difference comparing a 500 watt Shiva-X to a 1000 watt SDX15. The SDX15 would have a 3 to 4 db advantage in the 16hz to 25 hz range and a 5+ db advantage from 25 hz on up. It's all about how much money you're willing to spend and the best performance you can get for your budget and stated box size of "24” cube maximum".


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## ironglen

You need to 'borrow' a sub and see how much output you need. I never imagined that I would need the size I now have, but the low end content in these movies demand a lot of excursion/displacement, room dependent as others mentioned. The shiva gen 1 looks really good as cost/benefit and gets you in the door quite frugally...however, having extra headroom is very nice, at a cost. Again, really really try to test your room with a sub at your desired listening level so you can get an idea.


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## doors

Hi,

I have finally asked my friend to place an order for the css sdx-15:bigsmile:

Now the amp, this is getting to be troublesome. I want either a 500 or 1000w amp. it has to support 220v also. I also need a HPF (must as its going to be a ported design) at around 18-20hz range in the amp, and preferrably a low pass crossover also (not essential though as i will be using an avr). the boost around the cutoff frequency preferrably should not be there, probably 1-2 db max if it cant be helped. I would prefer a bash or class d amp as the power wastage is less (save the environment as well as my power bill). PEQ would be good too.

Not many options with these features.. the oaudio has 3 db boost at whatever hpf freq you use. All the PE ones are listed at 110 volts. keiga is too expensive, eD doesnt have subsonic filter as per their site... so what are my other options. dont want ep2500 kind of pro-amp. too many headaches - seperate hpf and eq, fan changing, low waf, heat generation, adaptors for balanaced i/o etc.....

thanx


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## Mike P.

The O-Audio amp has an estimated 8 db of boost at 12 hz, 6 db of boost at 16 hz, 4 db of boost at 20 hz and no boost at 25 hz. The 4 db of boost at 20 hz can be eliminated since the EQ has an effective range of 18 - 80 hz.

The Dayton 1000 watt amp would be ideal with its third order HPF at 18 hz and its EQ ability. Have you considered using a voltage converter?


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## doors

Mike P. said:


> The O-Audio amp has an estimated 8 db of boost at 12 hz, 6 db of boost at 16 hz, 4 db of boost at 20 hz and no boost at 25 hz. The 4 db of boost at 20 hz can be eliminated since the EQ has an effective range od 18 - 80 hz.
> 
> The Dayton 1000 watt amp would be ideal with its third order HPF at 18 hz and its EQ ability. Have you considered using a voltage converter?


is there a way i can simulate this behaviour in winisd. I would aim to tune the box at about 18hz, so the filter will be at 16hz. If I use the eq to fix the 20hz boost, then I cant use the eq at any other range as I think it operates only in one range. that would become an issue with fixing room response. cant the avr (yamaha rx-v663) help with the ypao system to equalize these things? I am not sure as i have never used a sub before.

no, the voltage converter has a low waf as its big ugly box, I am already using one for the avr. another one and i am a dead man....


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## Mike P.

> so the filter will be at 16hz. If I use the eq to fix the 20hz boost


With the HPF set at 16 hz the 6 db of boost is at 16 hz, not 20 hz. The boost can't be cut due to the EQ's lower limit of 18 hz.


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## doors

Mike P. said:


> With the HPF set at 16 hz the 6 db of boost is at 16 hz, not 20 hz. The boost can't be cut due to the EQ's lower limit of 18 hz.


got it.

Just got an email from parts express about dayton hpa amps and 220v. this is what they have to say:

"Yes these amps do work on 220 V. All you would need to do is take the fuse out and flip it. The high pass filter is at 19 Hz. There are no bass boosts built into this amp, but they both do have EQ on board so you can boost or cut a range of bass frequencies."

Does this sound reasonable, flipping a fuse to change voltage.


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## Mike P.

The manual states the HPF is 3rd order at 18 hz.

http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/modifying-the-subsonic-filter-and-eq.pdf

Power requirements are stated as 110-120 VAC, 60 Hz (10A GMA fuse)

http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/300-808.pdf

I would reinquire to P.E. support to verify what they are telling you.


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## doors

Mike P. said:


> The manual states the HPF is 3rd order at 18 hz.
> 
> http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/modifying-the-subsonic-filter-and-eq.pdf
> 
> Power requirements are stated as 110-120 VAC, 60 Hz (10A GMA fuse)
> 
> http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/300-808.pdf
> 
> I would reinquire to P.E. support to verify what they are telling you.


this is after the confirmation. the guys name is alex arnold.


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## Mike P.

I've never heard of "flipping a fuse to change voltage".


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## doors

Mike P. said:


> I've never heard of "flipping a fuse to change voltage".


even i have never heard of it, thats why I am skeptical. If I order it and the flipping doesnt work, and I plug it in, boom it will go. Is there a way to test it for input voltage requirement without plugging it in.

my friend called up support and talked to someone different. This person said the same thing. 

" When you receive the amp, pull out the fuse hlder and flip it 180 degrees and put it back in. This will allow a 220v input."


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## doors

sent a mail to dayton audio, they just confirmed that it works. its just not documented properly.
my friend just ordered the amp. yippeeee..


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## Mike P.

That's good news. We'll be waiting for your build thread. :yes:


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## lcaillo

It probably has multiple contacts and connects to different windings on the transformer.


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## Mike P.

lcaillo said:


> It probably has multiple contacts and connects to different windings on the transformer.


That would explain it. Thanks Leonard! :T


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## speedie

surely the fuse rating would be different for the increase in voltage , raise the voltage lower the amperage
be very careful tinkering with power!


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## lcaillo

Line fuses are a last resort sort of protection. If you blow a line fuse, it is usually because of a serious failure. The fuse is there to protect from fire if too much current is drawn. They likely have it fused to account for the worst case for lower current systems, which would also open for lower voltage systems.

The other possibility is that they don't have a clue, but it would not likely get UL approval if that was the case.


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## doors

Well, i hope the fuse doesnt blow. Here is the exact text I got from dayton:

Yes, all you do is flip the fuse holder around, and you will see it will switch it to 220 use. It is very easy, although we do need to document this feature better. You will have to obtain an IEC cord that is compatible to the country you will be operating it in.

2nd mail:
I wanted to also mention, that if you look carefully into the fuse block area, you will see how the fuse holder blades reverse for 220V and that on the outside of the holder, a small arrow matches up to the voltage selected. Simply flip it around 180 degrees. I think it will be very apparent when you see it. Again, we'll document this feature better in the future.


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## Mike P.

From everything that's been said just get the proper cord to plug it in and you're good to go.


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## doors

Thank you guys for all your help. Now I am over to the design phase and will again need a lot of help

I read on a lot of sites that the polyfill will help increase the effective volume of the box. I could not find guidelines regarding ported designs and how much you will gain by polyfill. Does anyone have personal experience of using polyfill to gain volume.

Right now, I am getting smoothest frequency response by using a 7 cuft box tuned to about 20-21 hz with a 6" port, about 20" long. If I do decide to use polyfill, what sized box will give me an effective 7cuft volume, and by using how much polyfill. If it does not work and I do make a smaller box, my design will go for a toss as the tuning will be off and I will end up having everything wrong, and will result in a lot of rework.

While designing the 7cuft one, my goal was to get a flat response and get the -3db point as close to 20hz as possible. Some of the sites on the web recommend to get a lower tuning frequency, with a higher -3db point and let the room gain work as the room gain it seems is higher at lower frequencies. Any thoughts on this.

If I drop the size to about 5 cuft (due to WAF), I loose a good 2-2.5 db in the 18-40hz range. rest of the range remains the same.

I have used the filters and power as per the docs of dayton amp. there is a 18hz hpf, which seems to be limiting quite a lot and according to simulations, I can go down to about 14-15hz for hpf without exceeding xmax of the driver. the documentation states I need to change three capacitors to lower the frequency. I do get a lot in terms of lower end response by lowering it to 14hz. Worth it? Are these usually soldered to the PCBs, has anyone attempted changing the caps, how hard is it to do.


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## Mike P.

One pound of polyfill for very cu.ft of cabinet volume equals a 10% increase in cabinet volume as seen by the sub. A 5 cu. ft. enclosure becomes 5.5 cu. ft., not much difference. The disadvantage will be reduced output from the port. It will also make the port seem longer and the tuning frequency will drop a bit. A 24" cube will have a net volume of 6 cu. ft., see if your wife will go for that.


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## doors

Hi Guys,

I have a couple of possible designs, could you guys please review these and let me know your opinions on these. What I am looking for is which of these two is a better design and why, also any pros and cons of each of these.

Both have 540w power, 12hz 3rd order hpf (will raise it for the higher tuning design), 80hz, 4th order lpf.

I will also be filling these with polyfill, probably will also be using the sub in sealed mode by plugging the port.

I also have a few questions.

1.	I saw the LLT explained thread, and loved the concept and was trying to con my wife into this when my wife threw a spanner in the works (over my dead body is what she says), so I can not go for LLT. Can I reap some of the benefits of LLT by tuning as low as I possibly can. I have to have a high pass filter as around 11-12hz, the excursion goes beyond xmech. The f3 is around 23-24hz, but I hoping room gain will lower it a bit.

2.	The other design is tuned to around 21hz and gives me a good flat response down to 20hz. What I read in some of the threads is that if you are getting a flat response between 20-30hz, you get a boomy sound. Is this true? Of course room placement also matters, but the design itself shouldnt be boomy or room placement becomes irrelevant.

3.	Is group delay a concern for me in these designs.

Thanx

PS: 
Hi Mike
I saw that there is another forum for ported and sealed subs. Could you please move the thread to that forum.
I also tried to change the thread title to something like "CSS SDX15 and HPSA build, need help", but I could not.


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## ironglen

As far as boomy sounding, it depends on your room and sub placement as much as anything.

By plugging it, you'll end up with a response similar to your lower tuned model, with decreased output yet rolling off nicely down low (gotta watch xmax when plugged), so your higher tuning (unplugged works nicely). I think of it as a parametric eq for when a room has high gain. Again look at xmax below tuning if using the same power- it jumps with it plugged under tuning. I ended up modeling it with less power when plugged as I figured I'd plug a port when room gain can is great.


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## doors

ironglen said:


> As far as boomy sounding, it depends on your room and sub placement as much as anything.
> 
> By plugging it, you'll end up with a response similar to your lower tuned model, with decreased output yet rolling off nicely down low (gotta watch xmax when plugged), so your higher tuning (unplugged works nicely). I think of it as a parametric eq for when a room has high gain. Again look at xmax below tuning if using the same power- it jumps with it plugged under tuning. I ended up modeling it with less power when plugged as I figured I'd plug a port when room gain can is great.


The room and placement I will handle when its ready. Right now my concern is to not end up with a bad design that is boomy.

The amp (hpsa500) has an hpf, which I will set to 12hz for lower tuning or 14-15 hz for higher tuning. Also with 6.5-7 cuft sealed, with 540w power, the excursion only goes upto about 33mm at 5hz even without an hpf, so no issues with that.

Which design would you pick for yourself if you were making this sub for a large area. I dont have a sub, so cant test and/or predict the room gain.


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## ironglen

I have a couple concerns looking back at your full post:

You have a large room, hence the reason others recommended a 15" over a 12" for more output, but with marble flooring along with hard surface walls-you'll likely need acoustic treatment,and not just a little, to avoid the booming you so wish to avoid. I didn't see the ceiling type mentioned, but if it's not a cathedral type-you'll have more problems.

By using a port or passive radiator, you're going to increase output over sealed, same power applied. Given enough power and eq ability, you can get sealed to equal the ported/pr output. Some listeners don't like the sound of a ported, some do, but for equal output, sealed is going to cost you more money in drivers and amps. Many here on hts use ported, then treat the room-which would be needed anyways. If your curve doesn't increase on the lower end, it should have nice, even output, that is, without room gain. The reason I suggested using a buddy's sub was to see how 'lively' your room is and to see if it had any resonant peaks (I think called nodes) induced by the room before you built.

You should be able to use more than 540w into a sdx15, I realize that using it in a larger sealed enclosure drops the available power you can use- but thought it could still handle more.


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## doors

ironglen said:


> I have a couple concerns looking back at your full post:
> 
> You have a large room, hence the reason others recommended a 15" over a 12" for more output, but with marble flooring along with hard surface walls-you'll likely need acoustic treatment,and not just a little, to avoid the booming you so wish to avoid. I didn't see the ceiling type mentioned, but if it's not a cathedral type-you'll have more problems.
> 
> By using a port or passive radiator, you're going to increase output over sealed, same power applied. Given enough power and eq ability, you can get sealed to equal the ported/pr output. Some listeners don't like the sound of a ported, some do, but for equal output, sealed is going to cost you more money in drivers and amps. Many here on hts use ported, then treat the room-which would be needed anyways. If your curve doesn't increase on the lower end, it should have nice, even output, that is, without room gain. The reason I suggested using a buddy's sub was to see how 'lively' your room is and to see if it had any resonant peaks (I think called nodes) induced by the room before you built.
> 
> You should be able to use more than 540w into a sdx15, I realize that using it in a larger sealed enclosure drops the available power you can use- but thought it could still handle more.


the ceiling is also concrete and flat, not cathedral type, about 10.5 ft. There are a couple of quite large curtained windows also, 4 doors, staircase, large but sparse furniture. I think it might need treatment, we'll see. Bigger headache will be to convince my wife to allow me to do the room treatments. System is in the living room:scratch:

sdx-15 can actually handle a lot more, didnt have an issue till some 1400w in simulations, but the problem is money as the 1000w plate amps are a lot more expensive. couldnt convince my wife to allow me to have more equipment on the rack, its already full. I would need an amp, eq and some sort of voltage stabilizer as power supply is erratic here. 

Another thing is its my first diy and first sub, so dont know what I want in terms of spl etc. From what I read so far and the simulations also show is that I get around 113 db (+ any room gain) by using the amp at half power, might be enough as its an apartment and not sure about how tolerant my nbrs are for a monster sub. Anyway, I can always upgrade to a better amp later.


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## ironglen

Ok, that's a good plan for power. As far as room treatment, my open layout has really helped plus carpeted in the living room, while our downstairs is all tile-and noisy. I would think a nice rug would go a long way towards better acoustics. Check out some members' ht pics- some guys have really nice looking spaces, while taming bad acoustics.

Regarding the group delay question- I don't know...:help:someone


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## doors

ironglen said:


> Ok, that's a good plan for power. As far as room treatment, my open layout has really helped plus carpeted in the living room, while our downstairs is all tile-and noisy. I would think a nice rug would go a long way towards better acoustics. Check out some members' ht pics- some guys have really nice looking spaces, while taming bad acoustics.
> 
> Regarding the group delay question- I don't know...:help:someone


hehehe, my wife is planning for a rug anyway:bigsmile:

funny how complicated situations end up resolving themselves!


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## tyler cookson

I'm using one of the sdx15's in my car right now in a sealed enclosure and it sounds awesome, I'm sure this will be insane keep up the good work!


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## doors

so finally my amp will be here this weekend, keeping my fingers crossed.

any info on the tuning questions.


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## Mike P.

That will depend on what box size you will use. How big are you going to go?


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## doors

Mike P. said:


> That will depend on what box size you will use. How big are you going to go?


well, lots of factors in that, so dont know the exact internal net volume. the outer dimensions can be 24x31x24 max, where 31 is the height (, I am a good negotiator). havent decided whether downfiring or front firing. If front firing, do I need feet for the box, what are the pros and cons of having feet? if yes how high. another important factor will be tuning as for lower tuning, the port will take up a lot of volume.
anyway, roughly it will be between 6 and 7 cuft internal net volume. but my question is more of a general nature, cant make an LLT, so does it still make sense to go for a lower tune to reap some of the benefits of the LLT, still gotta have an hpf though. my options look like 16-17hz for semi llt or around 20-21hz for a flat response.


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## Mike P.

With 500 watts, 6 cu.ft with a 20 hz tuning would be the best combination in my opinion.


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## doors

Mike P. said:


> With 500 watts, 6 cu.ft with a 20 hz tuning would be the best combination in my opinion.


hi mike,

I need to understand why this or any particular design is better than the other designs. could you please explain the reasoning behind selecting this particular design.

Also, with a 20hz tuning, I will probably get around 6.5-7 cuft of internal space with the external dimensions that I have.

I am also thinking about tuning lower and keep chopping the pipe every week by a hz and go up in tuning, try a few tuning points and see which one I like the best and eventually tuning it to the one I like the bestm specially since I dont have any idea of room gain in my room. Anyone else tried this approach, pros and cons, pitfalls etc.


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## Mike P.

> I need to understand why this or any particular design is better than the other designs. could you please explain the reasoning behind selecting this particular design.


Both models are with 500 watts and a HPF at 12 hz. They both have the same output at 18 hz while the 20 hz tune has a 3 db advantage in the mid 20 hz range where there is more low end information in DVD's compared to below 18 hz. Just my opinion.

Be aware that P.E. has changed their policy regarding the HPF on the HPSA amps. If you change the default 18 hz filter you void your warranty. If you model the subs with a HPF at 18 hz the 20 hz tune advantage still apllies.


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## sub_junkie

doors said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> ...I If I get a 1000w amp (around 450$), then the driver has to be below 300$...


That's not true. You can get the EP2500 for under $350, and it puts out 2000w at 4 ohm bridged mono.
You can get a EP1500 for $220, and it puts out at least 1000w at 4 ohm bridged mono.

Just wanted to point that out in case it could help in the future...


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## doors

sub_junkie said:


> That's not true. You can get the EP2500 for under $350, and it puts out 2000w at 4 ohm bridged mono.
> You can get a EP1500 for $220, and it puts out at least 1000w at 4 ohm bridged mono.
> 
> Just wanted to point that out in case it could help in the future...


thanx for the info. I couldnt go for a pro amp at the time due to waf, was looking only for plate amps.
my next amp will probably be a pro amp. depends upon what kind of output I am going to get from this amp.

BTW, ep2500 has been discontinued, before that I saw it going for 285$ at bhphotovideo and parts express.


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## Mike P.

The EP2500 has been replaced by the EP4000 which is $349.


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## doors

Hi Guys,

Finally I have shed some laziness and got started with the build. I dont know woodworking, so I have gotten a carpenter to help me with this. Some pics are attached and more are to come.



The external size is 2x2x2 excluding the feet. I am currently aiming for a 20hz tuning. I am using 0.75" MDF for construction using a flush mounted double baffle.

I also have a couple of questions regarding the build.

1. Where does the foam gasket go? I would assume it would go between the rim of the driver and the inner baffle, but if thats the case, the supplied gasket is longer than needed and I would need to cut it.

2. How do I wire the driver with the amp. I saw the driver wiring diagrams, but wasnt sure which one to use.

3. The inner port opening should be a diameter away from the inner walls. Should it also be that much away from other parts, e.g. the amp or the bracing panel or the speaker etc.

4, What size screws/nuts/bolts etc should I use. The carpenter was also suggesting to put a ring made of wood on the inner side of the inner baffle for better support for the driver weight.


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## Mike P.

1. Cut the foam tape to fit.

2. For wiring your sub click here: 2 Ohm DVC Drivers / Final Load 4 Ohm

3. One diameter away from the cabinet walls is recommended, do you best to place the port away from all other components.

4. I personally use 10/24 T-nuts and bolts, they don't hold well in MDF, glue 1/4 inch thick plywood squares where the T-nuts will be, install the T-nuts and glue the perimeter of them to the plywood. An inner ring is a good idea.


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## doors

Mike P. said:


> 1. Cut the foam tape to fit.
> 
> 2. For wiring your sub click here: 2 Ohm DVC Drivers / Final Load 4 Ohm
> 
> 3. One diameter away from the cabinet walls is recommended, do you best to place the port away from all other components.
> 
> 4. I personally use 10/24 T-nuts and bolts, they don't hold well in MDF, glue 1/4 inch thick plywood squares where the T-nuts will be, install the T-nuts and glue the perimeter of them to the plywood. An inner ring is a good idea.


Thanx Mike. Just to clarify on the wiring, I will short one set of red and black terminals and the other set goes to the amp, right? Speaker cable 14gauge should be enough?


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## Mike P.

Yes, the red terminal from one coil connected to the black terminal of the other coil. The remaining terminals to the amp. 12 gauge would be better.


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## doors

Hi,

There is a small piece of rubber (probably a part of the surround), that is protruding in the hole where I am supposed to put in the mounting screws. Its obstructing and making it harder to put in the screws, more chance of a screwdriver slipping... Any suggestions...


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## Mike P.

That's common with subs, the rubber gasket is movable, you should be able to position it so the holes line up.


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## doors

Mike P. said:


> That's common with subs, the rubber gasket is movable, you should be able to position it so the holes line up.


This is not the gasket, I havent put that yet. I am just trying put the screw in the mounting holes to see if it fits. it goes inside, but does not come out of the other end due to the obstruction in the hole, I haven't tried to use force though. Smaller screw goes through fine.


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## Mike P.

I was referring to this rubber ring, it should be movable to make the holes line up.


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## doors

Thanx mike.

The two layers that I see there are joined with small philips screws. Am I supposed to loosen these to move the bottom layer and retighten?

You mentioned 10/24 nuts. What do the numbers signify.


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## Mike P.

> The two layers that I see there are joined with small philips screws. Am I supposed to loosen these to move the bottom layer and retighten?


I'm thought it was a movable rubber ring, contact bob at CSS as I'm not familair with the type you have.

10/24 is a machine screw size. The 10 is the diameter which is 19/100" and the 24 means 24 threads per inch.


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## doors

The 5mm screws fit fine, which is abut .19".

Couple of other questions about the mounting.
The rubber gasket should be placed horizontally or vertically?
Should the gasket be placed inside of the screws, outside of the screws or are the screws supposed to go through the gasket.


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## Creative Sound

Hi,

You want to seal the driver and prevent air leaks so it might depend on how large your hole is. If you can carefully drill small hole through the gasket then the gasket will not distort and remain in place if you have to take the driver in and out.

I plan to have a dedicated gasket for the next version of the SDX15. This will have the holes machined, etc.

Bob


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## doors

thanx bob, i glued the gasket to the inner baffle and made small holes with a very small screw driver.


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## doors

Below are some pics for the build:

amp:

















Driver:









Box under construction:



















After putting everything together:


















I am yet to do the spikes, grill, painting and finishing.... Stay tuned for the final pics. 

I am going to try the sub for a week or two and then do the finishing etc, just in case there are any issues.

I like the bass so far, nice and tight, no boominess, there are no spikes on this and its kept on the floor directly, so once I add that, there will be a definite improvement in sound. Tried with music and movies both and it sounds good so far... but then again, its my first sub.



Any advice on the spikes. I can either put metal spikes or make a wooden platform with spikes or just make wooden feet from mdf. Any suggestion on this. The floor is marble.


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## Mike P.

I think spikes would be the simplest and easiest. Just curious about your port, it appears to be 6" diameter. What is the length of it? Also what is the band name of the amp?


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## doors

Mike P. said:


> I think spikes would be the simplest and easiest. Just curious about your port, it appears to be 6" diameter. What is the length of it? Also what is the band name of the amp?


the port is about 5.25" internal diameter. its about 24" long. the amp is dayton hpsa500.


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