# Breakfast Stout (RT2 II \ Aura NS6 2 way)



## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

Re-posted from http://techtalk.parts-express.com/s...Stouts-are-done-(HiVi-RT-2-II-Aura-NS6-2-way)

This started off as an idea almost a year ago when the HiVi RT2 tweeters were on sale for $35.00. The tweeter sim I was working with for the current speaker is the same as what I was using for the bookshelf version posted here. http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...ighlight=stout. For the NS6 woofer I'd recommend a 30 to 40 liter cabinet tuned to 38 Hz using the previous baffle baffle width and distances from the top of the speaker and extending either the bottom or the speaker's depth to add volume to the cabinet. Here's a link to the build thread for some additional information http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...eakfast-stouts.

For my cabinets I opted to re-purpose some $20.00-$30.00 Advent Laureate cabs. I bartered with R-Carpenter for help with the baffle project to get an insert made and the routing work done to receive the insert. I'll need to tweak the original grills a bit but they are still able to be installed and when they're in place the speakers look stock at first glance. Thanks for the awesome job on the inserts Roman.

While at Mike Z's today he confirmed what I was already suspecting this could be my best build to date. A large part of that can be attributed to the fact that this would normally have been the most expensive tweeter I've worked with which is a part of what I'm hearing. If you snagged a set of RT 2 II's when they were selling for $35.00 each for another $105.00 you could purchase the Aura NS6 woofers and crossover parts for the build. The crossover models as 4th order bessel @ 2300 Hz for the tweeter, Woofer is 2nd order Bessel @ 1800 Hz a and the two drivers cross at around 2,400 hz. 

Take it easy
Jay


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## Jstslamd (Nov 30, 2010)

Another very nice job. If I could only get xover building through my thick skull!! I'm envious.


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## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

Thanks for the compliments but I'm envious of the cabinet making experts.... I can do enough to be dangerous when it comes to the wood working side. That's why I sought out an other's help for the baffle inserts that I'd designed on paper. As for crossovers PCD is a great resource and well worth putting the time into learning for the purposes of speaker building.

Take it easy
Jay


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## Jstslamd (Nov 30, 2010)

How can I explain this. If I see the actual xover design I can duplicate it. Usually unless it's a simple design I look at schematics and my eyes go crossed lol. I think honestly it's a lack of being able to identifying symbols and why it's wired the way it is. Soldering isn't a problem at all


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

Jstslamd said:


> How can I explain this. If I see the actual xover design I can duplicate it. Usually unless it's a simple design I look at schematics and my eyes go crossed lol. I think honestly it's a lack of being able to identifying symbols and why it's wired the way it is. Soldering isn't a problem at all


The real trick is to identify the separate areas of the crossover. Ie The main crossover section, baffle step compensation circuit, woofer level matching, woofer impedance correction etc. 
Once you break it into seperate sections it is then just down to the maths.


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## Brewski (Jan 8, 2010)

Jstslamd said:


> How can I explain this. If I see the actual xover design I can duplicate it. Usually unless it's a simple design I look at schematics and my eyes go crossed lol. I think honestly it's a lack of being able to identifying symbols and why it's wired the way it is. Soldering isn't a problem at all


Doh Sorry I was thinking your were talking about crossover design. I typically label each of my crossover components with units of Measurement so if you see uF you know you're looking at a capacitor, and mH means your looking at and inductor and the DCR of the inductor will let you know gauge if it's air core etc, Ohms then would designate a resistor I'd typically opt for the cheapest 10 watt wire wound resistor I can find that is the right value.

As for the why it's wired the way it is that gets more into the crossover design for example the .47 cap in parallel with the 15 ohm resistor in the tweeter network is there to tilt the tweeter's FR to get it not to roll off as early as it normally would. The LCR on the woofer network (3.3uf, .27 mh, 3.3 Ohms) is there to squash the NS6 breakup at 4.5khz. and the extra line I just saw needs to get erased hmmm....

Take it easy
Jay


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## Jstslamd (Nov 30, 2010)

Only if I had someone to teach me first hand. I'm a hands on kind of guy. Once I do it and can wrap my head around it. It's a piece of cake lol. Take cars for instance. I can build them for motor to paint. It's easy for me cause I just palates until I understood. Ok I think I'm of on a tangent. Enough from me. Back to your thread.


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## fusseli (May 1, 2007)

Very nice work! I am in the same boat as yourself with building pristine cabinets myself, so I'm all for repurpose jobs


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