# New to Speaker construction



## fonjondrie (Dec 25, 2011)

Hey,

I've been doing some research on speaker construction such as types of design and tools needed. There is just so much information I don't know where to begin. I am currently purchasing the tools and have around 400$ to put into materials. I have never built a system and don't really know how to start. Any recommendations? I was thinking I should start with a proven design but I want to understand how to design a system and learn how to construct a crossover based on my design. 

Thanks in advance


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## Jstslamd (Nov 30, 2010)

What kind of design are you interested in building to get your feet wet ? I would stick with something simple like a 2 way designs or a 2way mtm design.


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## fonjondrie (Dec 25, 2011)

I like the idea of doing a 2 way mtm Got any suggestions?


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## GranteedEV (Aug 8, 2010)

fonjondrie said:


> Hey,
> 
> I've been doing some research on speaker construction such as types of design and tools needed. There is just so much information I don't know where to begin. I am currently purchasing the tools and have around 400$ to put into materials. I have never built a system and don't really know how to start. Any recommendations? I was thinking I should start with a proven design but I want to understand how to design a system and learn how to construct a crossover based on my design.
> 
> Thanks in advance


Hey. I agree with starting with a proven design. It's all a learning process and it's best not to overwhelm yourself right at the start! 

With $400 to spend on drivers/crossover/enclosure, it's not a huge budget but surely there's some fantastic results to be found. Perhaps the Zaph ZA5.3 tower. Or maybe its (more expensive) big brother the ZA5.5tt Tall tower.

A higher-end 2-way MTM Tower you might consider might be the ER18 MTM by Dennis Murphy. (the excellent Dayton Tweeter version would hopefully be close to your budget)


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## fonjondrie (Dec 25, 2011)

Thank you so much GranteedEV, I really like the ER18 MTM can you post a link for the Dayton Tweeter version


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## fonjondrie (Dec 25, 2011)

Nevermind I found it thank you again for the help


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## tshifrin (Nov 24, 2011)

Hey, Welcome! I new to speaker DIY too, and I've found an excellent resource is Ray Alden's book "Speaker Building 201." It starts really basic, but gets into the science and math in a very readable way. I highly recommend it. 
I'm starting with an even simpler first build, a subwoofer. But I agree with your approach and the recommendations here, that I re-design a proven design so I know why and how it works as a learning tool. I intend to make this my first speaker build: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-702 because it fits my budget and gets good reviews. I'll follow your build with interest...
Tom


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## Jstslamd (Nov 30, 2010)

The tritrix is great and fun build. I'm personally finishing up one myself let me know if you have any questions.


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## fonjondrie (Dec 25, 2011)

Just looked at the tritrix and I think I'm going to try that one seems simple and fairly inexpensive. did you just get the plans from Parts express?


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## fonjondrie (Dec 25, 2011)

I'm going to build my own enclosure what type of wood should I use, I've been reading and is mdf the right material.


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## GranteedEV (Aug 8, 2010)

fonjondrie said:


> I'm going to build my own enclosure what type of wood should I use, I've been reading and is mdf the right material.


3/4" MDF is the best bang for buck and will work fine for an inexpensive build. It has high mass. Like any material you will want adequate bracing every 6-8 inches of surface to mass load and minimize flex.

You may want 1.5" thickness on the front baffle (where the drivers will mount) so glue two layers togethet. I use construction grade adhesive.

For a more expensive build you may want to consider 1" plywood constrained via 1/4" roofing felt and adhered to concrete board, with bracing every 4". Such a build will have minimal cabinet coloration in the upper bass / lower midrange. 

Really depends on what you're willing to invest in both money and time. 

I do recommend lining the inside of any speaker build with rigid absorption material IE 2" Rockwool as this will minimize internal reflections.


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## tshifrin (Nov 24, 2011)

I'd agree with the last post about 3/4" MDF, although I've been warned that MDF dust (and it makes plenty) is pretty toxic, and that the gases created during cutting should also be avoided. I think the more advanced builders use 3/4" baltic birch plywood because it looks nicer, is almost as dense, and works well.
Where I don't agree with the previous post is lining the inside of the tritrix: since it's a transmission line design, the stuffing has to be applied as designed. The plans are there on the Parts Express site, including the lining and stuffing guide. There are several build threads which you can find by searching the taglines on the PE tech talk forum. (I do agree in general that enclosures should be lined and stuffed.)
I plan to use the full kit, including pre-cut cabs, since my woodworking skills are very basic, and my first goal is to learn the speaker design stuff; the wood working can wait. I'll start with theory and modeling, then move on to the building stuff.
G'luck,
Tom


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

There is a lot of misinformation about MDF out there and you will find that todays product is safe to work with as long as you use a dust mask. If you want to check then search for the MDF "materials safety data sheet". 
MDF is easy to work with and uniform density. You can also get veneers to finish it to make it look a bit better.


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## GranteedEV (Aug 8, 2010)

> Where I don't agree with the previous post is lining the inside of the tritrix: since it's a transmission line design, the stuffing has to be applied as designed.


Lining and stuffing are different things. The goal of lining is to prevent higher frequency reflections from re-radiating through through the driver cone. The goal of stuffing is to reduce excitation of quarter wave resonances of the transmission line, so that the bass is lifted without "honk" in the lower midrange created by the line. They really do serve different purposes.


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## tshifrin (Nov 24, 2011)

"Lining and stuffing are different things."
Thank you, I'm better educated by your comment... and that's exactly why I read this stuff.
And it's good to know that MDF has gotten safer, because it really is easy to use, and I'm glad to know that I'm not killing myself with it. But I'll definitely wear a mask, 'cause it tastes terrible!
Thank you both for your comments.

Tom


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