# Sony SXRD Owners Thread



## Jungle Jack

Hello,
I have noticed that there does not seem to be an Owners Thread for Sony's SXRD RPTV's.
These Models include: From earliest to latest
Sony Qualia 006
Sony KDS-R50/60 XBR1
Sony KDS-50/55/60 A2000
Sony KDS-R50/60 XBR2
Sony KDS-50/55/60 A2020
Sony KDS-50/55/60 A3000

I own the KDS-55A3000 that today had the Optical Board replaced. While covered under Sony's Extended Warranty for OB's, it was still a huge disappointment as the OB for the A3000 Series was supposed to be redesigned and was supposed to fix the OB problems that caused Class Action Lawsuits with earlier models over OB Failures.

I will say that failures on the A3000 Series have been far fewer than on the older Models, but there have been a handful that have failed.

Beyond the OB issues, I absolutely love my A3000 and truly think it is the best Display I have ever owned. At one point, the KDS-55A3000 had the highest rating of any set tested on Cnet. (was lowered from 8.5 to 7.7 to account for Samsung Set tested later on) The A3000 offered close to perfect Color Decoding (6500 Kelvin) out of the box which is an exceedingly rare thing. The earlier Models could be made to have
textbook Color Decoding, but required an ISF Technician to do so. The A3000 still needed a little tweaking, but was very close to 6500 Kelvin out of the box. These Displays also featured excellent Black Levels and many other great attributes.

Here are some Professional Reviews of SXRD Displays:
http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/article.asp?article_id=810&page_number=1
http://www.avrev.com/home-theater-r...-hdtvs/sony-qualia-006-70-inch-sxrd-hdtv.html
http://www.ultimateavmag.com/directviewandptvtelevisions/705sony/
http://www.avrev.com/home-theater-r...ony-kds-55a3000-55-inch-bravia-sxrd-hdtv.html
http://www.ultimateavmag.com/rearprojectiontvs/407sonyr70xbr2/
http://www.ultimateavmag.com/rearprojectiontvs/407sonyr70xbr2/
http://www.ultimateavmag.com/rearprojectiontvs/1206sonykdsr60xbr2/
http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/hdtvs/1767/sony-kds-60a2000-60-inch-sxrd-hdtv.html
http://hcc.techradar.com/node/6691 
http://ecoustics-cnet.com.com/Sony_...Sony+KDS-55A3000&tag=feed&part=ecoustics-cnet
http://www.avrev.com/home-theater-r...hdtvs/sony-kds-r70xbr2-70-inch-sxrd-hdtv.html
http://www.avrev.com/home-theater-r...hdtvs/sony-kds-r70xbr2-70-inch-sxrd-hdtv.html
I realize many Owners of the earlier Models have had to contend with multiple failures, but it seems many are operating well after repair.

So, if there are any other SXRD Owners out there, I would love to hear from you and hear your experiences with these troubled, but exceptional Displays.
Sony still makes SXRD Front Projectors that are thought to be some of the best on the market. It really is a tragedy that this technology was beset with problems that ruined many Owners experience as this really was a promising technology at great prices for the screen size.
Cheers,
JJ


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## lcaillo

One of the dealers that I do service work for sold dozens of these sets. Luckilly they did not start selling them until after the xbr1. While I have done several light engine replacements for xbr1s, I have only seen one of the later sets that needed one, and it was not the same issue that the early sets had with discoloration, but a problem on the circuit board on the light engine. IME, the later sets have been very reliable and very different from the early ones.


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## Jungle Jack

Hello,
That is good to hear. From all I have read OB failures on the A-3000 Series is exceedingly rare. It really was a tragedy when Sony stopped producing SXRD RPTV's as they received some of the best reviews of any technology.

The A3000 Series was initially going to be priced at $3000, $3300 and $3500 for the 50, 55, and 60 A3000 models. However, by the time the reached retailers, Sony had abandoned SXRD RPTV's and dumped the A3000's for insane prices.

Sony had also made and displayed the KDS-Z70XBR5 that looked amazing. It was the Display I was going to buy and waited for it until they announced it was never going to see the light of day. Really is a shame as the last generation had almost perfect color decoding without Service Menu adjustment.

To this day, there is no other Display I would rather have than my KDS-55A3000. My next move will be an SXRD Projector. The current SXRD PJ's are considered some of the finest available. 
Cheers,
JJ


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## Be_Mo_Mods

I to own the kds-55a3000 and I to have had problems. About a year ago the FB1A VGA HDMI INPUT BOARD went out. My warranty was expired so I let it sit for a month until I finally called a certified sony tech who diagnose the problem, for a fee, the end bill to have him fix it was $1800. Well I couldnt see paying that even if I had it. So I got the part # from him, ordered it on line along with the tech manual, and fix it myself for $150. 
I build PC's, wich is easy comparred to this, but I was succesful. 
I loved this set and was so dissapointed when it went out, now that i did the DIY route I feel confident that I can fix SOME problems that may arrise.
I am assuming that the Optical board issues are a different issue then what I had. Seperate board all together. Is there anyone who can confirm this for me?


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## lcaillo

There is no "optical board." The light engine is known as the "optical block" and contains the optics, SXRD device, and related electronics to control it and interface with the rest of the electronics and the lamp supply.

Do you currently have a problem? I am not clear on what you are trying to discover.


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## Jungle Jack

Hello,
On the A3000 Series, HDMI Board failures have been really rare. In fact, this is the first time I have read of that issue. A small number of Optical Block/Light Engines have gone out. However, the numbers have been greatly reduced compared to earlier versions.

Nicely done repairing the HDMI Board DIY.
Cheers,
JJ


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## Be_Mo_Mods

No Im not having any current issues. I had found this thread and was wondering what "the OB" ,Or as some here had called it "optical board" was just so I may know what it is IF it ever fails. 
I believe you guys have answered that for me. Thank you guys

I Just took my time reading over the tech manual, wich was well written/illustrated by the way, and familiarizing myself with the insides. My biggest concern was the wiring harness. I took alot of pictures. I remember thinking "just my luck", when I saw where the FB1A board was located. at the absolute bottom of the pile of all the other boards.


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## lcaillo

Do you have some details on that $1800 estimate? This is the kind of thing that many servicers don't realize goes on as much as it does. It is a large reason that so many people end up DIYing and it really gives the service industry a black eye. I'd like to use it as an example...


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## Be_Mo_Mods

yeah I will see if I can dig up his estamate/bid. It was a little over a year ago. I think I paid $98 for his house call diagnosis. I didnt have a problem with paying it. I just couldnt see paying that much for a tv that I paid $2000 for.


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## Jungle Jack

Hello,
I am glad again that you were able to fix your A3000 for a reasonable amount. I honestly love my A3000 and want for nothing as far as my Display goes. It truly has one of the best pictures of any TV ever made. 

SXRD really is a fantastic technology. It really is a disaster that the OB's, especially on the XBR1's have been so problematic. SXRD is still going strong in Front Projectors where they truly are considered some of the finest made. However the OB issues turned many people off the Technology.

As far as SXRD RPTV's, the A3000's truly had it all. HDMI 1.3, almost textbook Color Decoding out of the box when Warm 2 is selected, 120 Hz Processing, and so much more. Several reviews found it to be one of the best Displays out there regardless of Technology. (Plasma, LCD, etc) Cnet initially gave it an 8.5 which is one of their highest Ratings ever. It was reduced to a 7.7 for reasons which make no sense to me and many. The KDS-60A3000 also placed 3rd in the 2008 Home Theater Magazine HDTV Shootout. When the Test was conducted, the Picture Mode they Calibrated to was not even capable for full resolution. A Firmware Update has since rectified this and HT Magazine made note of the issue in their Review, but said it would not have changed their findings. A Panasonic Plasma finished 2nd and a Pioneer Kuro finished 1st.

While OB failures have been greatly reduced with the A3000's, unfortunately my OB recently failed and the right side of my Screen was turning Green. It was replaced promptly and covered by Sony. I also have an Extended Warranty for another 3 Years.
Cheers,
JJ


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## Be_Mo_Mods

Jungle Jack said:


> Hello,
> I am glad again that you were able to fix your A3000 for a reasonable amount. I honestly love my A3000 and want for nothing as far as my Display goes. It truly has one of the best pictures of any TV ever made.
> 
> SXRD really is a fantastic technology. It really is a disaster that the OB's, especially on the XBR1's have been so problematic. SXRD is still going strong in Front Projectors where they truly are considered some of the finest made. However the OB issues turned many people off the Technology.
> 
> As far as SXRD RPTV's, the A3000's truly had it all. HDMI 1.3, almost textbook Color Decoding out of the box when Warm 2 is selected, 120 Hz Processing, and so much more. Several reviews found it to be one of the best Displays out there regardless of Technology. (Plasma, LCD, etc) Cnet initially gave it an 8.5 which is one of their highest Ratings ever. It was reduced to a 7.7 for reasons which make no sense to me and many. The KDS-60A3000 also placed 3rd in the 2008 Home Theater Magazine HDTV Shootout. When the Test was conducted, the Picture Mode they Calibrated to was not even capable for full resolution. A Firmware Update has since rectified this and HT Magazine made note of the issue in their Review, but said it would not have changed their findings. A Panasonic Plasma finished 2nd and a Pioneer Kuro finished 1st.
> 
> While OB failures have been greatly reduced with the A3000's, unfortunately my OB recently failed and the right side of my Screen was turning Green. It was replaced promptly and covered by Sony. I also have an Extended Warranty for another 3 Years.
> Cheers,
> JJ



All the reviews and what I saw for my own eyes in the showroom where exactly why I bought it. I hope I havnt offended any one with my tale of wo. I hope I dont have to by another set for some time to come. I love my Sony. and as you I dont want for anything else ( well maybe an OPPO BDP-83SE)!!! How do you like your BDP-83 by the way? I have the OPPO 980H as well and cant see getting rid of it EVER. 

I owe all who have read my previous posts an apology. I was mistaken on the amount that I was quoted by the service tech who bid on my repair work. The amount was NOT $1800. It was a total of $784.02. I believe what happened was I got the amount confused with some repair work we had estimated on my work truck at about the same time. I ended up fixing that myself as well. 
So all apology's to any one I may have worried with my miss information. 
Thank you guys and I will frequent this thread in the future for some calibration advice. Or just to talk about what we have in common, The Sony KDS-55A3000!


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## lcaillo

What was the estimate for, precisely? Just state the facts. If you stick to facts the forum has more credibility. If you post generalities and exaggerations, no one benefits.


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## Be_Mo_Mods

lcaillo said:


> What was the estimate for, precisely? Just state the facts. If you stick to facts the forum has more credibility. If you post generalities and exaggerations, no one benefits.


Yes I agree. I should have dug up the paper work I had filed away and confirmed the price before posting anything. That was irresponsible of me. But I hope that you believe me when I say it was not intentional.

The work order for the in home diagnosis, witch is all I have, states "mid assembly FB1A board failure". The in home diagnosis cost $103.46....At the time of his visit he could not tell me the total cost. As I recall, and my wife, He didn't know the part # and didn't have access to that information. 
He called back, witch is why I don't have a hand written "estimate" only a quote over the Phone, that evening and quoted the price of $784.08 for the PART, and the LABOR to install it. 
He said that he would apply the amount we paid for the in home diagnosis as a deduction towards the total of $784.08...reducing the balance ( if we contracted him to do the repair) to $680.62...I wrote all this down on the original Work Order from his in home Diagnosis.
He was very professional and was help full in giving us a complete description of the part as well as the part number when we asked for it. By that time we had already decided to TRY and fix it ourselves.

I hope this helps, and I apologize for any confusion I may have caused.


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## lcaillo

So even with a nice markup on the board, you were going to be charged about $400 for a couple of service trips and labor? How long did it take him to diagnose it and how long did it take you to change the board?


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## Be_Mo_Mods

He was at my house on the first and only trip for no more than 1 1/2 hours. he had another person with for training purposes. But he did not give me the diagnosis at that time he needed to refer to additional
information at his shop to complete an estimate on the total cost. How much time He spent doing that I can not speculate.
It took me the better part of 6 hours to do the job.


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## Be_Mo_Mods

lcaillo said:


> So even with a nice markup on the board, you were going to be charged about $400 for a couple of service trips and labor? How long did it take him to diagnose it and how long did it take you to change the board?


That would be a very nice markup on the board. $384.08 by my calculations.


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## lcaillo

I am being very generous. What I am getting at is that estimates like these are what drive people away from professionals and to DIY repairs. Many servicers are very arrogant about this, but as I see it, you have a repair that should have been about $150 labor, plus two service trips, plus a modest profit on the part, and the whole thing should have been a lot less than the nearly $800 you were given as an estimate. If I was doing the job, the whole thing would have been under $500. That may have still been too much for you, but many people would likely have it done, where at $800 no one with any sense would spend that much on a set like this.

Sevicers complain all the time about DIYers, while at the same time pricing their services beyond the value that the market will sustain. It is simple business really. You have to understand what your services are worth and price accordingly if you want the business.


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## Be_Mo_Mods

I would have preferred to have it done by a pro. There is piece of mind in that. I think that this type of DIY can, and may very often, be dangerous. Electricity, as I'm sure you know is nothing to take lightly. In many respects I feel I got lucky.
I agree with you, I was a general contractor for many years. I still work in the field from time time. I always felt you should build on your reputation first and foremost. The quick buck attitude I saw in my profession never proved to be a long lasting business model. If I was fair, I had a customer who would return as well as recommend me to others. Just common sense. Quality, volume, And a long term business plan.
Thank you, Bobby


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## lcaillo

The truth is that in most cases with reasonable care, these kinds of repairs are pretty easy to do safely. One should never attempt a DIY repair, however if not confident in what needs to be done and how to be safe about it.

Sorry you had a bad experience with a "professional" but happy you got it fixed.


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## Melon Ranger

I own the KDS-50A2000 and am still very happy with it. My wife and I picked it up soon after they came out. We were moving from a small duplex to our house and the smaller lcd wasn't going to cut it anymore. It has seen alot of use between satellite, blu-ray movies, and gaming. The only thing I have had to do is change the bulb once.

I have had the upgrade itch but the boss lady refuses to scratch that one right now.....lol


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## drj9797

*Re: Sony SXRD Owners Thread- VPL-VW100 noise*

i own, and have installed many of the VPL-VW100 SXRD front projectors. i am wondering if anyone has heard about, or received any complaints regarding the high pitched noise that emanates from the projector after it has been on for a while. it sounds like a fan noise, but it is not the fan. it could be related to the lamp assembly (very expensive replacement) but i cannot find any info about this weird but annoying feature. it can be heard when the audio soundtrack material is low, and is enough to make you think "what is that noise" ? any it sounds like a "ringing" noise, but what could make a ringing sound ? comments ? thanks.


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## lcaillo

Lamp or lamp supply? Reseat the lamp first. If that does not affect it, listen closely for the source. I vaguely recall something about an upgrade to the lamp supply on one of the sony projectors for noise. It could be that.


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## drj9797

thanks leonard, i will do that and check it out.


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## Osage_Winter

Hello All!

New member here, eager to begin with some questions regarding my SXRD, model KDS-50A2020...

Since owning this rear pro set for a good few years now (and still on my same original bulb!) I have been running the set in a calibrated "Standard" picture mode, as I simply preferred that over the popular "Custom" (for these sets). However, we just moved into a new house and I decided to recalibrate the set using Custom, to see what all the fuss was about, and to see if I could squeeze some more "artifact-crushing" ability out of my OPPO BDP-83 Blu-ray player that's connected to the set.

I calibrated the set in Custom using three different setup discs, including a THX Optimizer test and the Spears & Munsil Blu-ray, and defeated all "Advanced Settings" controls except for DETAIL ENHANCER, which I left on HIGH for what I have been told will give "3-D-ish type snap" to HD material like Blu-ray. 

After calibration, I popped in the original non-anamorphic DVD of _Armageddon_ in anticipation of its upcoming Blu-ray release, and while the image looked very good for an upscaled DVD, there was still a cool/blue push to the image which is something that always bothered me about using Standard mode on this TV. And that was WITH using "Warm2" as the Color Temp. Also, the overall image didn't look all that much "dramatically better" than it did when I was in Standard mode -- it MAY have looked a bit smoother and exhibited less "noise" as I defeated the Edge Enhancement and such, but it didn't look tremendously more improved, as folks assured me it would by switching from Standard to Custom.

Now, I am thinking some White Balance adjustment may help this cool push to the image, as I left the White Balance all to factory defaults of "0", but can anyone suggest to me which Gains and Biases need to be adjusted to dial back the blue hue in the image I am experiencing?

Further, does it make a big deal if I use "Standard" over "Custom"? Should I just continue using Custom with a Warm2 color temp? Would it be "okay" to use Standard mode, even for watching DVDs and Blu-rays?

Thank you in advance, fellow Shacksters!


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## Jungle Jack

Hello,
With the A2020 Series, Color Decoding was not spot on out of the box even with using Calibration Discs.
With the A3000 Series, Color Decoding was close to perfect with the Warm 2 Setting out of the box. I would still use Warm 2 with the A2020.

In truth, the best way to get textbook decoding will be to get an ISF Calibration. These Calibrators have the Tools and ability to go into your TV's Service Menu to really make a huge impact. If going this route, I would highly recommend getting a new Lamp prior to them coming out there. Also, if on your original Lamp, this might have an impact on how your PQ looks. Otherwise, I would just use the Calibration Discs you have and tinker until happy. 
Cheers,
JJ


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## Osage_Winter

Jungle Jack said:


> Hello,
> With the A2020 Series, Color Decoding was not spot on out of the box even with using Calibration Discs.
> With the A3000 Series, Color Decoding was close to perfect with the Warm 2 Setting out of the box. I would still use Warm 2 with the A2020.
> 
> In truth, the best way to get textbook decoding will be to get an ISF Calibration. These Calibrators have the Tools and ability to go into your TV's Service Menu to really make a huge impact. If going this route, I would highly recommend getting a new Lamp prior to them coming out there. Also, if on your original Lamp, this might have an impact on how your PQ looks. Otherwise, I would just use the Calibration Discs you have and tinker until happy.
> Cheers,
> JJ


Thank you very much for the reply, Jack.

I am indeed on my original lamp. I realize the "ultimate" way to get the best picture would be via an ISF calibration, but I was hoping to continue using my setup discs. At any rate, I always seem to gravitate back to "Standard" mode, as I am uncertain as to what to set all the "Advanced" settings to in the Custom mode...I leave Color Temp on Neutral in Standard...

Do you think this is OK, over, say, Vivid?


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## glaufman

General advice is not to adjust the white balance settings without a meter or some other reference to show you exactly what needs to be done, and how much.


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## Osage_Winter

glaufman said:


> General advice is not to adjust the white balance settings without a meter or some other reference to show you exactly what needs to be done, and how much.


I understand that, Glaufman; but I have experimented with the white balance settings before, and was able to "dial out" the blue push from this set, via adjusting the Bias and Gains for the Blue parameters. It wasn't scientifically accurate, but I eliminated the cool hue that had infected the image.


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## glaufman

Well, then I guess I'm a bit confused why you asked:


Osage_Winter said:


> can anyone suggest to me which Gains and Biases need to be adjusted to dial back the blue hue in the image I am experiencing?


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## Osage_Winter

glaufman said:


> Well, then I guess I'm a bit confused why you asked:


Oh, yes, my apologies for the miscommunication; upon re-reading my statement, I can see where that was kind of contradictory rhetoric.

I suppose what I am trying to say is that, I HAD played with the Blue Gain/Bias controls before under the White Balance menu, and that dialed out some of the cool push even in Warm 2 color temp, but I wanted additional advice/guidance for whether there were specific values I should be playing with that would definitely eliminate this blue hue -- values that are documented by calibrators, or experienced SXRD owners, which "tame" these cool overtones, so I don't have to guess again in terms of doing it myself.

For the less-technically-inclined like me, should I just leave the set in Standard mode and calibrate with the discs?


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## lcaillo

Warm2 is the closest to D65 usually, but sets vary. You can't just transfer settings for white balance. The sets I recall actually had too little blue in warm2. If you still have too much blue you may have a problem with the light engine.


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## Osage_Winter

lcaillo said:


> Warm2 is the closest to D65 usually, but sets vary. You can't just transfer settings for white balance. The sets I recall actually had too little blue in warm2. If you still have too much blue you may have a problem with the light engine.


Thanks, Caillo. 

It's not that I wish to "transfer" white balance settings; I am saying that previously, I had tinkered with the Gain and Bias for the Blue region in this menu, and was able to "dial out" a bit of the blue push.

It's interesting that you say that you recall these sets having not enough blue in Warm 2; I have read almost every online review of the SXRDs, and the reviewers, most of the time, came to the conclusion that Warm 2 was still too cool, thus needed adjusting in White Balance. :huh:


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## Osage_Winter

Here's another question I have regarding SXRD implementation; perhaps someone could assist with this, as well...

When I switch my KDS-50A2020 to, say, Standard picture mode BEFORE my Blu-ray player is turned on, I can scroll down the picture adjustments and notice that after "Noise Reduction" there is an adjustment for the DRC (seemingly "locked" on "High Density") and something else -- ONCE I switch my Blu-ray player ON, these options disappear in the Standard mode's menu...

Now, when I use Custom picture mode, those two adjustment selections which I mentioned, DRC and something else, are present in the picture adjustment menu constantly, BUT, they are GREYED OUT and locked when I switch my Blu-ray player on...

Is this because the Blu-ray player is sending the screen a 1080p signal, so DRC and the other control is locked out? If so, why do these options disappear in Standard mode when I switch the BD player on? 

Can someone explain this please?


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## lcaillo

DRC is only for dealing with the low resolution and noise from 480 sources. It does nothing on 1080 signals entering your set. 

I am almost certain that I calibrated several of these sets. When I get back to Florida I will try to remember to look up the data. Remind me if you don't hear back from me by about Wednesday.

Also, check the settings recommended at TweakTV.com for your set.


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## Osage_Winter

lcaillo said:


> DRC is only for dealing with the low resolution and noise from 480 sources. It does nothing on 1080 signals entering your set.


But why does the indication behave the way it does? Meaning, why, when I enter "Standard," does the option for DRC, etc. only come up when my connected source player is off? Once I turn the Blu-ray player ON, those options are completely not available in Standard -- they're not even greyed out, just non existent.

Conversely, in "Custom" mode, the DRC etc. comes up on the settings screen, but their options are locked and greyed out...

Is this still because the incoming signal from the BD player is 1080p? 



> I am almost certain that I calibrated several of these sets. When I get back to Florida I will try to remember to look up the data. Remind me if you don't hear back from me by about Wednesday.
> 
> Also, check the settings recommended at TweakTV.com for your set.


Thank you.

I have indeed checked Tweak TV; they, like almost everyone else, suggest Custom with Warm 2 settings -- I'm just SO torn between this set's Standard mode and Custom...:gulp: :unbelievable: addle: :coocoo: :sweat:


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## Jungle Jack

Hello,
Since you are on the original Lamp, you might want to consider getting a Replacement Lamp. The worst feeling in the World is getting ready to watch your favorite TV Show of BD and your Lamp dies.

If you get one soon while your current still has some life left on it, you will have an able backup Lamp.
Cheers,
JJ


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## Osage_Winter

Jungle Jack said:


> Hello,
> Since you are on the original Lamp, you might want to consider getting a Replacement Lamp. The worst feeling in the World is getting ready to watch your favorite TV Show of BD and your Lamp dies.
> 
> If you get one soon while your current still has some life left on it, you will have an able backup Lamp.
> Cheers,
> JJ


But wouldn't I get some kind of indicator on the set -- perhaps the light that indicates power (green) would turn (red) at the bottom of the bezel -- before the lamp just goes?


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## Jungle Jack

Hello,
After 8000 hours with the A3000 Series and I think 6000 Hours with others, there is a reminder that tells you a replacement is needed. However, sometimes the Lamp will die early.

Sets that have always had the Brightness cranked and many turn on/off cycles are more prone to failure.
Also, there are some Lamps that just die early.
Cheers,
JJ


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## lcaillo

Brightness is a video parameter, not a lamp drive parameter, and has nothing to do with lamp life. Start cycles are the most significant variable in lamp life, aside from luck.


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## Jungle Jack

Hello,
Everything I have read is that if you have Picture and Brightness cranked, Lamp life does go down.
I certainly defer to your experience on the matter. Definitely knew constant power on cycles had an impact.
Cheers,
JJ


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## lcaillo

If you have read that, someone needs to be corrected. It is completely wrong information. Some sets have a lamp power option that affects output, and that will affect lamp life, but brightness and contrast controls do not affect the lamp at all.


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## Jungle Jack

Hello,
Definitely have always used the Power Saving option. Again, I defer to your expertise with UHP Lamps and Displays in general as I said prior.

I have had my past 3 Displays ISF Calibrated. I realize that since I have recently needed an OB replacement, I need another. For now, just using Avia and another Calibration Disc for setting Black Level and Color. Again, I have found my A3000 to be the best TV I have ever owned. In spite of the fact it is one of the cheapest.
Cheers,
JJ


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## glaufman

lcaillo said:


> It's interesting that you say that you recall these sets having not enough blue in Warm 2; I have read almost every online review of the SXRDs, and the reviewers, most of the time, came to the conclusion that Warm 2 was still too cool, thus needed adjusting in White Balance. :huh:


It's likely that when you "dialed out the blue shift" originally, that since you wre doing so without a reference, you went too far in the warm region, and now you're so used to it that the warm2 setting looks blue by comparison even though it's as Leonard says.



Osage_Winter said:


> But why does the indication behave the way it does? Meaning, why, when I enter "Standard," does the option for DRC, etc. only come up when my connected source player is off? Once I turn the Blu-ray player ON, those options are completely not available in Standard -- they're not even greyed out, just non existent.


They take it away when it can't be used, as in, the BD sends 1080 to the TV...


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## tomspoon

I own a Sony KDS-55A3000 which I purchased new in January 2008. It was manufactured in November 2007. This has been one of the best televisions I have ever owned, with no need for any servicing. In January 2012 the lamp went out without any message displayed on the screen, nor any warning. Several days before the lamp went out I noticed a slight flickering on occasion. The lamp was still bright after 4 years of use. When I removed it to examine, it was clear that one of the filaments had burned through. I ordered a bare replacement Philips lamp and installed it in the original cage. Once reinstalled in the television, it was instantly restored to its former glory. I reset the lamp replacement in the menu. I did not know of any way to check for total lamp hours. Is there a way to do so?

Recently, I had been checking the local Craigslist ads and someone offered this same set for sale for $250. I checked with the owner and he had replaced it with an LCD set after his lamp went out. It was also the first time he had had his lamp go out, but didn't want to deal with the replacement. After checking out the television, it appeared in excellent condition and powered up, with the lamp indicator LED lit. I negotiated a price of $200.00 and brought it home. Closer inspection revealed this set had been made in January 2008, which had to be very close to the time manufacturing of these sets stopped. When I swapped in the lamp from my other set, the picture looked good so I ordered another Philips bare lamp and replaced it. When comparing the set I just purchased to my prior one, I noticed that the black level is not the same, even when set up identically. To see if it was the lamp, I swapped the lamps on the sets, but the black level didn't change on either set - perfect on my original set; lighter on the recently purchased set. My original set seems to have the superior picture, and appears slightly sharper with more contrast. When compared to each other, I would say that the black level on the set I recently purchased seems slightly brighter. If I lower the brightness level it seems better but is not the same as my original set. Power saving is set on both televisions as both sets seem too bright unless this is turned on. Perhaps this will change after some use as I understand these lamps are extremely bright for the first couple of hundred hours.

By the way, I did order the firmware software update USB stick for my original KDS-55A3000, which does not have the latest firmware available for the set. When I inserted the USB stick into the set, the update failed to start. I wonder if there is a reason this failed to update? The set I recently purchased does have the latest firmware on it.

I guess it just may be the differences in individual samples that the picture would not be quite as good from one KDS-55A3000 to another, and they are 4 years old after all. I would still say that the picture on the set I just purchased is still excellent, just not in the same league as my original set.

Best Regards


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## Jungle Jack

Hello,
I love my 55A3000 as well. Your Lamp must have gone out before 8000 Hours as once it reaches that mark, there is a banner on the TV telling you to replace the Lamp.

Here is how to check Lamp Hours: Service Menu: 
Be VERY CAREFUL in the Service Menu. Enter at your own Risk!

[DISPLAY] + [5] + [VOL+] + [POWER]

check hours on lamp:

Starting with TV turned on - press Power, Display, 5, Vol+, Power.
That will get you into the SM.
Press Jump three times to get you to the 3rd menu area ("PANEL NVM OK").
Press 2 or 5 a bunch of times to get to category 20 TIMER. You should see
something like 0 LMP 100, which I think means you have used 100 hours on the
lamp.
1 and 4 change sub-categories in the menu. Moves up and down options.
2 and 5 change sections
jump key switches between different menu systems

Mute then Enter commits any changed values. Be careful with this.
Press Power to exit the SM and turn the TV off.

0 then enter reverts to previous settings (couple seconds, screen may go
black)

I got really lucky and got a free KDL-55EX500 2 Months after having the Optical Block Replaced and Lamp on my A3000. Since I got the LCD, my A3000 has been in the Guest Bedroom barely being used. Amazing PQ.
Cheers,
JJ


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## tomspoon

Thanks very much for the info, Jungle Jack! I did try this procedure several times, but no matter how many times I went through the various menus, I never found "Panel NVM OK". I did see NVM, but did not find category "20 TIMER", nor see anything like "0 LMP #HRS". Being a greenie, I sure didn't want to affect anything by changing an important setting, so after several attempts I figured it was safer to err on the side of caution and exit out. By the way, the Craigslist set's picture has improved with use, it may be that the lamp is getting through its extremely bright phase after replacement.

That doesn't mean I'm not a risk taker! I have a JVC HD-55G466 that I bought off a man on Craigslist for $75 bucks, figuring the lamp was out. I ordered a replacement lamp (foolishly unaware that there are many inferior lamps out there, and I got an Osram instead of a Philips lamp) and got it working. My only complaint had been that it was not as bright as it should be, and that the HDMI input was not working. Triumph today, because I found a procedure on a fix-it web page for the reset of the HDMI port, and it worked! I hooked up the Blu-ray and HD-DVD and was surprised that the 720p set could display a surprisingly good image through HDMI. Based upon that I did order a Philips-sourced lamp assembly for this set to see if the brightness and occasional slight flickering improves. Otherwise the picture looked amazingly well and small details like clothing texture was readily apparent where it had not been on the 1080i component level input.

I am AMAZED that Sony supplied you with a free set following the replacement of their repaired Optical block! I believe my extended warranty expired last June (2011) but my set is still performing well, and the Craigslist set seems to have nearly the same quality. Hope you enjoy that KDL-55EX500 to pieces, sounds like you deserve it.

Best Regards, Tom


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## Jungle Jack

tomspoon said:


> Thanks very much for the info, Jungle Jack! I did try this procedure several times, but no matter how many times I went through the various menus, I never found "Panel NVM OK". I did see NVM, but did not find category "20 TIMER", nor see anything like "0 LMP #HRS". Being a greenie, I sure didn't want to affect anything by changing an important setting, so after several attempts I figured it was safer to err on the side of caution and exit out. By the way, the Craigslist set's picture has improved with use, it may be that the lamp is getting through its extremely bright phase after replacement.
> 
> That doesn't mean I'm not a risk taker! I have a JVC HD-55G466 that I bought off a man on Craigslist for $75 bucks, figuring the lamp was out. I ordered a replacement lamp (foolishly unaware that there are many inferior lamps out there, and I got an Osram instead of a Philips lamp) and got it working. My only complaint had been that it was not as bright as it should be, and that the HDMI input was not working. Triumph today, because I found a procedure on a fix-it web page for the reset of the HDMI port, and it worked! I hooked up the Blu-ray and HD-DVD and was surprised that the 720p set could display a surprisingly good image through HDMI. Based upon that I did order a Philips-sourced lamp assembly for this set to see if the brightness and occasional slight flickering improves. Otherwise the picture looked amazingly well and small details like clothing texture was readily apparent where it had not been on the 1080i component level input.
> 
> I am AMAZED that Sony supplied you with a free set following the replacement of their repaired Optical block! I believe my extended warranty expired last June (2011) but my set is still performing well, and the Craigslist set seems to have nearly the same quality. Hope you enjoy that KDL-55EX500 to pieces, sounds like you deserve it.
> 
> Best Regards, Tom


Tom,
It took countless calls to Sony and good luck. I won a $50 bet too with my friend who I Carpool with who was privy to the conversations I had with Sony as to whether or not I could score a free Panel while having a working SXRD. Having 2 Optical Blocks needing replacement within 10 Months certainly helped my cause, but both times, it was only a tiny green line roughly dead center running vertically both times.

I think if memory serves there is a Self Test Menu that is engaged when you press (Vol -) instead of Vol + in the Service Menu Sequence. Nice work on the JVC as well. I think SXRD/DILA still provides the best PQ I have experienced at home.
Cheers,
J


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