# I'm about to order a BFD, but look at this...



## TJHUB (Apr 7, 2008)

I've been on the edge of ordering a BFD for some time now. I've read a lot of the BFD guide and many threads over the past couple of weeks. I don't want to spend a bunch of unecessary money and I have way too many toys as it is now. As such, I've decided that I just want an 1124P and I'll do everything manually. 

I downloaded 1/6 octive test tones from this site and basically took some readings from 10Hz to 100Hz and used the excel sheet to plot my readings:










I basically set the 80Hz tone to 80Hz on my old style RS meter (10+ years old now) and took the readings.

I'm VERY surprised at the plot. It's almost ridiculous! It certainly doesn't sound like this to me. Overall I'd say the midbass is on the weak side and lower bass is definately hot, but this is not what I expected at all. 

I want to order the 1124P tomorrow and I plan to just figure it all out and get the sub balanced and play with some "house curves". 

Any comments?


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## brucek (Apr 11, 2006)

> I'm VERY surprised at the plot.


Why?

I would set a target level of about 75dB at 50Hz. 

Then take readings from about 16Hz to 200Hz at 1/6th octave points.

You have a couple peaks at 22Hz and 36Hz.....

brucek


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

> It certainly doesn't sound like this to me. *Overall I'd say the midbass is on the weak side and lower bass is definately hot...*


 What crossover setting are you using? Perhaps it doesn’t sound like that because normally your mains are supplying the midbass? 

Regards,
Wayne


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## TJHUB (Apr 7, 2008)

Sorry about this, but please try to follow me... 

I seem to have some sort of issue blending my sub with my B&W 805S main speakers. I took some readings (with the RS calibrations) and plotted the results with excel:










For reference, I plugged in the "All Speakers" data into the BFD excel sheet:










Here is a shot of my room:










(so you can see the sub's location better):










For the record, I'm feeling out of control here. Should I just stop and set my x-over point to 80Hz, take readings, and use the BFD from there? I've been trying everything I can to get a smoother FR by making adjustments with what I have (no BFD). I still only get poor midbass and bloated bottom end. Music is VERY important to me. I use my setup for 70% music and 30% home theater. 

Any advice?

(Please note that my room pics are from a few weeks ago. I own the black 805S's and I've modified my speaker stands for cable management. I just didn't want you to think I'm some sloppy moron.)


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## brucek (Apr 11, 2006)

> Should I just stop and set my x-over point to 80Hz, take readings, and use the BFD from there?


As I previously pointed out, it appears you have a couple peaks around 22Hz and 36Hz. If you reduce those with a BFD and then raise the overall level of the sub so it meets the mains at the crossover area, it will be fine.

Any reason you don't use REW (which is much better than the manual method )

brucek


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## TJHUB (Apr 7, 2008)

brucek said:


> As I previously pointed out, it appears you have a couple peaks around 22Hz and 36Hz. If you reduce those with a BFD and then raise the overall level of the sub so it meets the mains at the crossover area, it will be fine.
> 
> Any reason you don't use REW (which is much better than the manual method )
> 
> brucek


From that last graph, I think I see more of a problem than you do. However, I've read a lot of your posts and I will have to trust your opinion. 

I've spent over $6k on my setup over the last couple of months. I've also come to realize that I buy things that I *need* only to have more junk laying around my home. I *need* to simplify (as much as I can). I'm not using REQ because I don't want to purchase a USB sound card for $50.00 so that I have more stuff laying around. Trust me, I have a problem. I'm to the point now that I just won't buy something unless I really do need it. I'm thinking I'll just invest the time and do this whole BFD thing manually...


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## lalakersfan34 (Oct 31, 2007)

Hey TJHUB,

First off, I wanted to say I truly enjoyed your AVS thread regarding your journey with the Ascend Sierras, B&W's, and other speakers you considered. I found your posts to be uncommonly honest, sincere, and down to earth. It was so refreshing to see a "real" person giving "real" opinions, and outwardly expressing his desires and needs from his speakers. It's unfortunate that thread was marred by immaturity toward the end, but I thoroughly appreciated your comments .

Ok, enough about that. About using PEQ, I'm certainly no pro, as I'm actually just learning it and using it for the first time as well. While you certainly _can_ do things manually, REW is incredibly useful. I made a manual bass response plot with an SPL meter and test tones in 1hz increments, and I'm not convinced it came out near as accurately as REW's sweeps. In addition, REW can allow you to easily visualize the approximate effect certain filters will have on your FR. You have no idea how helpful this is until you use it (and try EQing without it!). Again, if you're really convinced that doing it manually is the way to go, more power to you. I already respect your resolve and honest dedication to your audio setup immensely, and I'm sure you will end up achieving great results. REW can just do so much to help, as well as make measurements you can't do with just an SPL meter and a piece of paper, that I strongly urge you to try it, if possible. At any rate, best of luck in your endeavor. Hope to see you around this forum - it's an extremely friendly, positive environment, and in my experience, completely devoid of the "baggage" that is unfortunately many times encountered elsewhere. Good luck!

Stephen


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## TJHUB (Apr 7, 2008)

lalakersfan34 said:


> Hey TJHUB,
> 
> First off, I wanted to say I truly enjoyed your AVS thread regarding your journey with the Ascend Sierras, B&W's, and other speakers you considered. I found your posts to be uncommonly honest, sincere, and down to earth. It was so refreshing to see a "real" person giving "real" opinions, and outwardly expressing his desires and needs from his speakers. It's unfortunate that thread was marred by immaturity toward the end, but I thoroughly appreciated your comments .
> 
> ...


Thanks for the nice comments. That speaker search and thread was quite the experience for me. Luckily it was for the most part very positive, but most of the positive was via private messages and emails. There are certainly a lot of great people behind the scenes on AVS. 

I really do love my B&W 805S's and I even after about a month or so, I still have a hard time faulting them for almost anything. But to honest, this subwoofer tuning thing is really kicking my butt. Most days I think I only make things worse...

The truth of my issue is that I just spend too much money. I've lost sight of what's really important in life. I love audio and it's one thing that truly makes me happy, but when do you stop spending? I obviously need some EQ'ing for my sub, but I'd rather spend the time than spend extra money if I can. Maybe I'm drawing a line in the sand in the wrong place? I was thinking just last night that maybe my readings aren't accurate. I've asked a coworker to bring in his new style analog RS meter for me to use this weekend to compare it's readings to mine. 

I suppose I could take my desktop into the living room and run REW with my RS meter... I still think manual is the way to go for me.


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## lalakersfan34 (Oct 31, 2007)

TJHUB,

Considering the fact that you have a desktop that has a compatible sound card, I'd strongly recommend taking it into the living room to run REW. Doing things manually is a good learning experience, but using REW is as well, and I can pretty much guarantee you'll end up with better results. And while it might take a few minutes to lug the desktop in from the other room, it'll still end up taking much less time than doing everything manually. As I said earlier, being able to actually visually see the effects certain filters will have on your frequency response is so incredibly helpful - not just in making things work faster, but it in helping you to learn more about the nature of EQ itself. Here's a link to a couple of my graphs from REW - I'm a total novice with this stuff and I think my response improved a ton .

http://s245.photobucket.com/albums/gg64/lalakersfan34/?special_track=nav_tab_album

Best of luck with your setup! Keep at it - the results are well worth it .


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## TJHUB (Apr 7, 2008)

lalakersfan34 said:


> TJHUB,
> 
> Considering the fact that you have a desktop that has a compatible sound card, I'd strongly recommend taking it into the living room to run REW. Doing things manually is a good learning experience, but using REW is as well, and I can pretty much guarantee you'll end up with better results. And while it might take a few minutes to lug the desktop in from the other room, it'll still end up taking much less time than doing everything manually. As I said earlier, being able to actually visually see the effects certain filters will have on your frequency response is so incredibly helpful - not just in making things work faster, but it in helping you to learn more about the nature of EQ itself. Here's a link to a couple of my graphs from REW - I'm a total novice with this stuff and I think my response improved a ton .
> 
> ...


Ok...you win. I'm not doing anything productive this Saturday and I really want to clean up my computer desk area, so I'll give in and try REW running on my main PC. If for nothing else, I'll do it for the experience. 

I still haven't purchased a BFD as of yet. Could someone please just kick me down the path of the 1124P or FBQ... I just can't decide and the threads I've read on this forum aren't helping either!

Thanks.


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## brucek (Apr 11, 2006)

> so I'll give in and try REW running on my main PC.


Here's a thread on the cabling and interconnections you'll require to use REW.

Here's a link to the REW HELP FILES.

You won't be sorry you put in that last bit of time and effort in getting REW up and running. There's really no other way to equalize your system than using REW and a BFD. 

If you want to save a few bucks, simply enter the filters that REW recommends by hand into the BFD instead of buying the Midi interface.

If the 1124 is available, get it and save even more money.........

brucek


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## TJHUB (Apr 7, 2008)

brucek said:


> Here's a thread on the cabling and interconnections you'll require to use REW.
> 
> Here's a link to the REW HELP FILES.
> 
> ...


Thank you sir. I really do appreciate the help.


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## lalakersfan34 (Oct 31, 2007)

I agree with brucek (good idea on my part, since he's a genius ). Don't bother with the midi. It'll save a couple of minutes, but you can just figure out the filters on REW and manually put them into the Behringer - it'll take all of 5 minutes. I think you'll be very pleased with the results you obtain with REW. Here's the ugly part - do a sweep that goes to 20,000 hz, and you'll be depressed with how uneven the rest of the FR is :foottap:.


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

> From that last graph, I think I see more of a problem than you do. However, I've read a lot of your posts and I will have to trust your opinion.


What do you see? I’m seeing the same thing brucek is…



> I'm not using REQ because I don't want to purchase a USB sound card for $50.00 so that I have more stuff laying around.


I fully understand – I’m a cheapskate, too. EBay is your friend! 

By the way, I had to edit the “c” word out of your post – not allowed here...

Regards,
Wayne


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

> (Please note that my room pics are from a few weeks ago. I own the black 805S's and I've modified my speaker stands for cable management. I just didn't want you to think I'm some sloppy moron.)


 This guy isn’t the least bit embarrassed – don’t know why you should be. :laugh:

Regards,
Wayne


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## Guest (Apr 19, 2008)

where in this site can I download the 1/6th octave test tones.
I went to the download page but didnt find any test tones.
Any help is appreciated.
I also bought the Rives CD2 but I dont think it gives 1/6th octave
test tones. If I can get them here I could return that CD
Thanks


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

BFD Guide Quick Links | FAQ | Tips

Regards,
Wayne


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## TJHUB (Apr 7, 2008)

Wayne A. Pflughaupt said:


> What do you see? I’m seeing the same thing brucek is…
> 
> I fully understand – I’m a cheapskate, too. EBay is your friend!
> 
> ...


Hey Wayne. I guess I don't see just the two peaks you guys see. To me, it looks more complicated. I'm concerned about the 63Hz dip I have. However, I have little to no experience with this sub EQ'ing stuff, so maybe I'm thinking too much and once I go through the process I too will say I just had "two peaks".

I'm sorry, but I don't know what "c" word I used. I scanned back through my posts quickly, but I missed it. If I did a no-no, I'm very sorry and it will not happen again (well, if I can figure out what it was that is). 

I'm about to throw in the towel here and just order the stuff I need to do this right (or easier). I'm going to just purchase the USB sound card for my laptop and I'm wondering if I should get the FBQ. My Saturday is now busy and I have plans for Sunday, so since I'll be waiting to run REW, I think I'll just order the sound card Monday along with a BFD. I have a friend that'll benefit from the setup as well because he too now *needs* a BFD for his sub. (Wonder where he go that idea?) :bigsmile:


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## TJHUB (Apr 7, 2008)

Wayne A. Pflughaupt said:


> This guy isn’t the least bit embarrassed – don’t know why you should be. :laugh:
> 
> Regards,
> Wayne


YIKES!! :unbelievable:


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## TJHUB (Apr 7, 2008)

Mupi said:


> where in this site can I download the 1/6th octave test tones.
> I went to the download page but didnt find any test tones.
> Any help is appreciated.
> I also bought the Rives CD2 but I dont think it gives 1/6th octave
> ...


Right HERE. Look for the word: "sinewaves"


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

> I've been trying everything I can to get a smoother FR by making adjustments with what I have (no BFD). I still only get poor midbass and bloated bottom end. Music is VERY important to me.
> 
> Hey Wayne. I guess I don't see just the two peaks you guys see. To me, it looks more complicated. I'm concerned about the 63Hz dip I have.


Okay, let me help you out here. 

You say everything sounds bloated with poor mid-bass. I can see that. Let’s take another look at your combined graph and I’ll show you why that is:










The reason things sound bloated is because that broad 22 Hz situation is swamping the 63 Hz area. You have about a 15 dB differential between the two.

Now imagine if you will, if that 22 Hz area was brought down and flattened at that straight pink line. With the low-end “boom” not nearly so loud, you’d be able to hear the mid bass better, would you not?

As it is now, you’ve probably set your sub/mains levels based on that 22 Hz area. The reason is, if you used your receiver’s test tones for level setting, it’s playing a broadband bass signal (e.g., everything from ~100 Hz on down). Well, the SPL meter is “dumb.” The reading it gives you is going to be the _hottest frequency_ from that broadband signal – i.e., 22 Hz in your case. And that’s what you adjust your sub level with.

Okay, back to our “new” plot with the 22 Hz area pulled down to the pink line. As you can imagine, once you do that, your sub level is going to be way too low. So, you turn it up 7-8 dB to get the volume back (actually, probably more – now that the “boom” is gone you can get the sub up higher than the mains, as it typically should be). Well, that deficient 63 Hz area will be lifted with it. So there, you’ve solved both your bloat _and_ your weak mid-bass problem by dealing with the 22 Hz problem. Make sense?

I see another issue as well:










Note your two 805 plots, particularly the pink one that’s showing 70-Hz, high-passed response. You stopped the plot a bit above 40 Hz, but at that point it is only 10 dB down compared to the dark-blue, full-range plot. What slope is your high-pass? The standard these days is 24 dB/octave, so your mains’ response should be attenuated about that far at 36 Hz, which is one octave below 70 Hz. As such, the pink plot should be showing _much_ more attenuation at 40 Hz than the 10 dB that it is. It should be more like 20 dB at that point. Again, assuming you have 24 dB slopes.

Regards,
Wayne


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## brucek (Apr 11, 2006)

> The standard these days is 24 dB/octave


I believe it's 2nd order HPF as a standard, since they rely on the speakers bottom end to add the extra slope.
Either way, Waynes point is that the 63Hz null you are worried about wouldn't be as bad if you could turn up the sub level. You can't because you have a couple large resonant peaks at 22Hz and 36Hz. Remove them and turn up the sub and your midrange will be nice and the low end will have settled down..

burcek


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## TJHUB (Apr 7, 2008)

Wayne:

Thank you for that excellent explanation. I can see your point. I am making more out of this than I should. 

I was a little shocked when I played that 40Hz test tone with no sub and just my 805's playing full range! The tone started and instead of looking at my meter, I looked at the speakers thinking: "WOW!" I certainly never expected to hear a 40Hz tone that loud from my 805's. Then when I high-passed them at 70Hz and they were only attenuated by 10db I was a little disappointed. I run an Emotiva MMC-1 pre/pro F.Y.I.

The FR of my 805S's is +/- 3db 42Hz to 22kHz and they are supposed to be -6db at 42Hz. I'll most likely install my port plugs to allow them to roll-off better. 

Bruce:

Yes this is all making perfect sense. 

I'm going to take a few readings this afternoon since I'll have a little time. I'm going to read through the BFD guide a little more and I'm going to order a USB sound card and BFD tomorrow. I'll also plan out and purchase all the cables I'll need for the entire setup. 

My Emotiva pre/pro has an XLR sub output. Should I purchase an XLR cable to feed into the BFD? Might as well, right?

I have to tell you that I'm pretty excited about this whole deal. Getting my sub tuned is going to be fantastic. I can't wait to hear the final results!


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## lalakersfan34 (Oct 31, 2007)

Keep us posted, TJHUB. And yes, I think you'll be pleasantly shocked by how good the results can be. I've settled on a 4dB house curve starting at 65hz and ending at 32hz. My results are pretty good, IMO.

http://s245.photobucket.com/albums/gg64/lalakersfan34/?action=view&current=4dbhousecurvefr.jpg

Can't wait to know your impressions when you get things up and running .


BTW, I think the "c" word Wayne was talking about is C-R-....just a heads up. HTS is very strict on language, and while it might be hard to break old habits, the Shack is a clean, 100% positive environment because of it.


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## brucek (Apr 11, 2006)

> My Emotiva pre/pro has an XLR sub output. Should I purchase an XLR cable to feed into the BFD? Might as well, right?


Yes.........................


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

On the side while we’re waiting for TJ to get back to us – Stephen, that graph of yours looks a little too pretty. You didn’t use every last one of those BFD filters, did you? addle:

Regards,
Wayne


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

TJHUB said:


> My Emotiva pre/pro has an XLR sub output. Should I purchase an XLR cable to feed into the BFD? Might as well, right?


Just make sure the cable you get has either Neutrik or Switchcraft connectors. There are a lot of cheap mic cables with cheesy XLRs on the market...

Regards,
Wayne


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## lalakersfan34 (Oct 31, 2007)

Wayne A. Pflughaupt said:


> On the side while we’re waiting for TJ to get back to us – Stephen, that graph of yours looks a little too pretty. You didn’t use every last one of those BFD filters, did you? addle:
> 
> Regards,
> Wayne


Nope, I didn't use them all - but I'm curious, is it bad to use more than 3-4 filters? I figured if I'm not boosting frequencies it's not too big a deal, but let me know and I'll redo things...


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## TJHUB (Apr 7, 2008)

Wayne A. Pflughaupt said:


> Just make sure the cable you get has either Neutrik or Switchcraft connectors. There are a lot of cheap mic cables with cheesy XLRs on the market...
> 
> Regards,
> Wayne


I was planning to just order a Dayton XLR (3ft.) from PE when I order my 1124P. It has a 5-year warranty.


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

lalakersfan34 said:


> Nope, I didn't use them all - but I'm curious, is it bad to use more than 3-4 filters? I figured if I'm not boosting frequencies it's not too big a deal, but let me know and I'll redo things...


Hee hee – just ribbin’ ya, Stephen. Sure, it’s fine to use more than 3-4 filters if you need them. Often people come into this and see they can pile on filter after filter to get response as perfect-looking as possible, not knowing any better – i.e., using way more than they really need, 11 or 12 of them and occasionally asking of they can hook the two channels together to get another 12, no kidding! If you were able to get that curve of yours with only a few filters, then you’re really fortunate! Mine doesn’t look nearly as good, although it does sound good. :T

Regards,
Wayne


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

TJHUB said:


> I was planning to just order a Dayton XLR (3ft.) from PE when I order my 1124P. It has a 5-year warranty.


Those are Neutrik connectors – you’re good to go. :T

Regards,
Wayne


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## TJHUB (Apr 7, 2008)

Wayne A. Pflughaupt said:


> Those are Neutrik connectors – you’re good to go. :T
> 
> Regards,
> Wayne


That's good to know because I had no idea what you were talking about and I was wondering if it was the right cable.

Also, everything is ordered. I'll be back Wednesday with results from REW. :bigsmile: I'm not sure when I'll get the BFD for sure.

This is going to be fun. I LOVE this stuff.


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## TJHUB (Apr 7, 2008)

Just a small update:

My USB sound card and BFD (1124P) will be in my hands tomorrow. I'm all set to get everything running. I hope I won't need to post anything in the REW forum (as problems).

I can't wait, but I plan to be patient and get everything just right. :bigsmile:


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## lalakersfan34 (Oct 31, 2007)

Sounds good, TJ. Keep us posted - I'm interested to know how things end up. Hopefully you won't have any fiascos like I did .


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## TJHUB (Apr 7, 2008)

Ok guys... I barely got through this and I'm not certain everything is good. I'll redo everything tomorrow to see if the results are similar or not. 

Anyway, here are my results:

REW before:










REW after:










The "after" is with 7 filters. :bigsmile: The first 4 just wasn't good enough for me, so I re-ran REW and added 3 more filters. I don't know if this is good or not, but you saw the graphs. :T

I really can't do any real listening because the kids are in bed, but I am sitting here listening at low volume and I hear very balanced, very clean bass. I'm playing Fourplay which has caused the most issues for me because their music has some very deep bass that was sounding a little bloated. Midbass sounds solid at low volume. This is one thing I thought was weak. I can't wait until tomorrow to really give this a listen.

Additional good news: the 1124P has NO HUM! I was worried, but it seems I got lucky. 

That's all I have for now...


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## lalakersfan34 (Oct 31, 2007)

Looking good, TJ! Those 15dB peaks were huge. Looking at the before and after, everything below 60hz was far too bloated prior to your use of EQ. Your bass looks like it's much more accurate and articulate now. If you find the bass is a bit too "lean" down low, you can always run a house curve. I decided to try a modest house curve after running my EQ flat, and I like it very much. It's not nearly enough to be bloated, but the bottom octave is "fuller" now. Anyway, looking forward to finding out how things turn out and what you think of your bass response when you're done. But just from looking at your two charts, things look far better already. Great job .


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## TJHUB (Apr 7, 2008)

I got about 15 minutes to listen to some music this morning before work. The change in sound is not in your face obvious, but it is definitely better. For me, the bass is finally punchy like it should be. The overall bass response is very smooth and balanced sounding. The sub seems to blend better with my B&W 805S's now. It wasn't bad before, but you can really be fooled into thinking the bass is coming from my small bookshelf speakers and not that 40" tall black tube on the side. 

I can't believe I've been wanting to do this for about the past 5 years and never did until now. What was I thinking? 

My only problem right now is I'm just not sure how I got through everything last night with REW. I had a few problems here and there, but between the guide and my application of my general computer genius, I got through it and everything seems to work. I had a hard time understanding exactly what was or needed to happen in some of the steps. I'm going to run through the guide and start over again tonight. If I get similar or exactly the same results, good. If things get better, great! I'd really like to understand REW better to better use the great tool it seems to be.

I will also be experimenting with a house curve of some kind over the next couple of days or even the weekend. That should prove interesting for the home theater side of my setup. 

Thanks again for your help guys. REW was definitely the way to go. I can't believe I was thinking I'd do this manually. :coocoo: :bigsmile:


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

TJHUB said:


> Thanks again for your help guys. REW was definitely the way to go. I can't believe I was thinking I'd do this manually. :coocoo: :bigsmile:


We used to do it all the time! Take sine wave readings across the sub band, try to figure out from the _manual_ graph you plotted what filters needed to be set up (that’s what totally befuddled most people), apply a filter, take new sine wave readings and plot a new graph and see what the change was. And on and on. It could take _days_ to accomplish. Late-comers to sub equalizing have no clue how much they owe John for giving back to them a huge chunk of their lives. 



TJHUB said:


> Anyway, here are my results:
> 
> REW before:
> 
> ...


I take it you can see now that eliminating that big 22 Hz area was what was needed. :T

Seven filters between ~20-50 Hz – that’s an awful lot. I’m guessing you were going for the “picture-perfect” line? That seems to be a natural tendency for first-timers (no dig there, I did it too!).

The 4 filters were probably plenty, given that the area of adjustment has rather broad and smooth deviations, rather than sharp, ragged ones like you see at your upper bass frequencies. If the 4 filters were ones that REW recommended, you can probably get the effect of the other 3 by manually modifying the former – i.e., tweaking their bandwidth, frequency center and gain.

Normally I don’t like to see such drastic cutting taking place (15 dB between the peaks and the Target) and prefer to move the Target between the peaks and lows before equalizing. But in your case it was probably the right thing to do, since the area from 60-90 Hz was pretty well where it needed to be going in. It would have required 2-3 filters minimal to do a wholesale “raise” of that area, in addition to whatever was needed below 60 Hz.

Regards,
Wayne


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## TJHUB (Apr 7, 2008)

Wayne: 

I know you're correct, but you have to let me go through my noob stage. :bigsmile: I can assure you that two of the 3 additional filters were very minor and most likely not even needed or effective.

As I've already stated, I really need to go back through the process and understand things better. Once I do, I'll start playing with the recommended filters a little. It certainly is nice that it takes about 15 seconds to run REW to see what your changes affected. Just awesome!


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## TJHUB (Apr 7, 2008)

I just completed starting all over with REW and my results are extremely similar. The resultant sound sounds VERY similar, so I'll just say that I did good the first time and the second run through I'm only using 4 filters instead of 7. :bigsmile:

My sub never sounded this sweet before! The 1124P is great! 

I'm planning to explore house curves this weekend. For now I'll just enjoy my new tuning with music and a couple of movies Friday and Saturday night. :bigsmile::bigsmile::T


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## TJHUB (Apr 7, 2008)

Just a quick comment:

I ran my REW setup at a friends house this past Monday and showed him that he *needed* a BFD (he knew his sub wasn't sounding "right"). He immediately ordered an 1124P and we tuned it yesterday. Needless to say, he's a very happy guy now. 

Again, I'll just say that it's amazing how blended the sub gets with the main speakers after EQ'ing.


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## lalakersfan34 (Oct 31, 2007)

Awesome, TJHUB! It really does make a huge difference.

BTW I'll give Wayne some peace of mind as well. I originally had a lot of filters on my REW, but I've run it again (after adding a couple of bass traps to my room ) and I'm down to five filters.

And I realize I haven't taken the time to personally thank John for REW. The program is incredible, and though it's a little intimidating at first, once you get the hang of it, like TJHUB said, "I can't believe I was thinking I'd do it manually!" I measured my bass response the manual way before, and it took MUCH longer and, in my opinion, the measurements didn't come out as accurately as with REW either. THANK YOU JOHN!!!


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## JohnM (Apr 11, 2006)

You are very welcome


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## TJHUB (Apr 7, 2008)

JohnM said:


> You are very welcome


You know, honestly I am extremely thankful for your software. I can't imagine doing it the manual way over REW. I wanted to do it manually, but I'm VERY happy that I was convinced to use REW. 

So...thank you very much sir!


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## 95RCode (Jan 27, 2008)

Wayne A. Pflughaupt said:


> Normally I don’t like to see such drastic cutting taking place (15 dB between the peaks and the Target) and prefer to move the Target between the peaks and lows before equalizing. But in your case it was probably the right thing to do, since the area from 60-90 Hz was pretty well where it needed to be going in. *It would have required 2-3 filters minimal to do a wholesale “raise” of that area*, in addition to whatever was needed below 60 Hz.
> 
> Regards,
> Wayne


Wayne,

Could you explain the process of doing a wholesale raise.

Take care,
James


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## brucek (Apr 11, 2006)

> Could you explain the process of doing a wholesale raise


The use of wide bandwidth filters to act as a level control, rather than narrow filters to remove a peak (or dip).

brucek


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