# DEQX - converting passive Speakers to Active - any tips?



## Gior (Mar 21, 2009)

Hi guys,

Just thought I'd seek some advice from any of you guys that have converted your passive speakers to active speakers with a DEQX HDP-3.

Am a little bit worried about blowing the drivers, especially the tweeters and mids with if I do this. Will be running Emotiva XPA-1's for the bass drivers (2x Seas W21EX-001 wired parallel - 4 ohm load) and an Emotiva XPA-5 for the Mids (2x Seas Excel W11CY-002 wired in parallel - 4 ohm load) and Tweeter (Seas Excel T25-001).

Any advice at all would be most appreciated!

Have a good Easter guys!


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## Lucky7! (Jan 7, 2008)

Gior said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> Just thought I'd seek some advice from any of you guys that have converted your passive speakers to active speakers with a DEQX HDP-3.
> 
> ...


Why would you be concerned about blowing drivers? 

If you play the speakers at the same SPL active as you did with passive, they will be getting about the same amount of power and they weren't damaged then were they?. If you then crank it wildly louder than you did before with the DEQX in place, then there is a risk, but no more so than if you brought a very high power amp home and used that with the passive version, and were foolish with the volume control. Remember, you are in control of the system.

The steeper slopes possible on the xover section of the DEQX will be beneficial in this regard as well if you use them as they will lower further the excursion at the bottom of each driver's range. Do however be cautious with the EQ as the DEQX will allow a lot.

I ran a pair of 15W rated vintage Celestions on a 400W/ch amp recently for a few months. No damage as I didn't turn it up past where they sounded strained - they probably never got more than a few W continuous.

Relax and enjoy the DEQX. It's a brilliant unit. I have a friend who has one in hi system and it is one of the two best sounding systems I have ever heard, bar none. It's a very, very capable and powerful piece of kit.


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## Gior (Mar 21, 2009)

Just worried in case the crossover settings don't get applied for whatever reason. Don't really want to supply the tweeter with a 20hz signal and hear a pop lol


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## Lucky7! (Jan 7, 2008)

I think the likelihood of that _actually_ happening is remote. If you are that concerned, check everything is working correctly before you connect the tweets or mids to the amps. Use a cheap bookshelf speaker connected to the MF and HF outputs in turn, and test at low level to make sure everything is working as expected.
Plus make sure you read and understand the manual before using it.


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## Gior (Mar 21, 2009)

Cool...I'm gonna give DEQX a call tomorrow about it as I do want to get these VAF I-93's sounding right.


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## Lucky7! (Jan 7, 2008)

Gior said:


> Cool...I'm gonna give DEQX a call tomorrow about it as I do want to get these VAF I-93's sounding right.


If you decide to go agead with the DEQX, please either in this thread or a new one, detail the conversion process with pics and DEQX screens as I'm sure others will be interested, both for the DEQX but also for general passive-active conversion using other xovers. Cheers.


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## Gior (Mar 21, 2009)

Will do!


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## terry j (Jul 31, 2006)

Gior said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> Just thought I'd seek some advice from any of you guys that have converted your passive speakers to active speakers with a DEQX HDP-3.
> 
> ...


\

the deqx _itself_ won't blow drivers, but of course if you set it up wrong (and tell it what to do incorrectly) then it is possible to blow drivers.

A9X very correctly pointed out a solution, hook up any old speaker to each output (bass, mid and treble) and run a sweep, you should hear each register being reproduced only.

A very good alternative is to use rew and simply do a sweep of each driver (mute each output on the deqx to do that) and measure to check you have set it up right. I am assuming you can use rew, given you asked here.

A9X also pointed out that get to know the unit (ie moo baby moo)(...took me a while to work out what I had originally typed..R-T-F-M without the spaces...can I not use that abbreviation???). The deqx is only as good as you use it. As much as it can work wonders, it only is as good as the operator.

Cut your teeth on stages if you wish. Leave the existing x-over of the vafs in place and use a single amp as you normally would. In this limited role it acts as a very sophisticated equalizer. Then you can see the different effects of how you measuer etc etc.

DON'T 'bite the bullet' and get all gung ho and lug the speakers out to measure them etc. Someone I know did that (after I specifically urged him not too)..I got a phone call 'I have no mic input, what's wrong?' (how the hell would I know?), then later 'oh, I had the mic plugged into the wrong place'. In other words, he was trying to run before he could even work the software.

So when he did not get good results, no wonder he was not inclined to lug his speakers and amps etc outside to try again, _and blamed the unit_.

Play with it, get to know the interface etc, and get to know how to work the thing.

Then depending on your level of comfort go further.

I just jumped into the deep end, but if as your first post suggests you are a bit gun shy, then those are the sort of baby steps you can take.



Gior said:


> Cool...I'm gonna give DEQX a call tomorrow about it as I do want to get these VAF I-93's sounding right.


Thought you already had it from your first post. AFAIK you are able to download the manual from the website (???), but that could be a little overwhelming.

I don't check in that often, but send me an e-mail if you feel like gasbagging about it a bit, happy to help if I can.

Just don't talk to me about amps or cables yeah!! haha.:coocoo: Someone very recently got in touch with me and listed his equipment list...I answered in my usual fashion and I have not heard from him since.

pretty sure I scared him off. ""who is this bloody idiot??""


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## lsiberian (Mar 24, 2009)

I'm not a fan of this idea at all. If you want to make your own active speakers than go ahead, but changing out the crossover seems like a lot wasted energy. You can fix issues with a parametric EQ device. No need to go Active. Unless you plan on modding the cabinet. :bigsmile:


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## Gior (Mar 21, 2009)

Hi Terry,

I've read a lot of your posts over on Stereo.net before the ban  I'm not sure why they actually banned you as I thought your points regarding SGR were all quite well thought out and valid. I must've missed your more 'colourful' posts lol.

Anyway I'll probably do the first run of the DEQX with just the existing Xovers in the I-93's. I'm thinking up of making a new back panel for the I-93's for the active setup which will take me a bit of time (not the best at woodwork lol). I haven't actually pulled off the back panel yet.

Have been speaking with Kim at DEQX. Luckily being local, he's can provide some hands on support. I told him about the Emotiva amps that I'm intending to use and that's piqued his curiousity as he was astounded at their price. I think he just wants to have a good listen to these amps lol 

I'm not the biggest believer in audible differences between well designed class A and AB SS amps at most reasonable listening levels. Class D however does seem to sound a bit different though which is why I went with the Emotiva's rather than one of the D types. Cables wise I just go for the bling value  Mostly use Mogami interconnects where possible and big gauge speaker cables as I really don't want to worry about possible resistance issues over any domestic length lol.


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## Gior (Mar 21, 2009)

Hi isiberian,

I've got it on good advice to reseal and redampen the cabinet if I get started on this project. The DEQX I think is probably gonna do a bit more than just change the crossover  I need more EQ and room correction with these speakers than what Audyssey Pro can give  Have a look







at the native response of the left speaker and







for the right speaker.


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## terry j (Jul 31, 2006)

lsiberian said:


> I'm not a fan of this idea at all. If you want to make your own active speakers than go ahead, but changing out the crossover seems like a lot wasted energy. You can fix issues with a parametric EQ device. No need to go Active. Unless you plan on modding the cabinet. :bigsmile:


don't get hung up on simply the '''eq''' side of it, (ie if all you were gonna do is eq then yeah, agree with you completely, plenty of cheaper units around that will get you there) as that is only about ten percent of it's capabilities. From the discussion I have had with alan it seems that 'there was a bit of capability left over after finalising it's intended functions, why don;t we throw eq capability in too??' type of stuff.

Once you get into the whole box of dice (which can be done in stages as your confidence grows, which is all I really wanted to get across before) that is when it starts to shine. linear phase crossover slopes etc etc, but the magic (I think) occurs in what it does to the time domain.

Anyway, not a sales post but it needs to be understood that eq alone is trivial. If that is all you want to do, forget the deqx and get a different unit.



Gior said:


> Hi Terry,
> 
> I've read a lot of your posts over on Stereo.net before the ban  I'm not sure why they actually banned you as I thought your points regarding SGR were all quite well thought out and valid. I must've missed your more 'colourful' posts lol.


Ahh, did not recognise your logon name, anyway 'nice to meet you'. If you have read my posts then you naturally would not make the mistake of engaging me about cables haha, (simply don't care, rather than anti etc)

The ban more related to a certain moderator, nuff said.



> Anyway I'll probably do the first run of the DEQX with just the existing Xovers in the I-93's. I'm thinking up of making a new back panel for the I-93's for the active setup which will take me a bit of time (not the best at woodwork lol). I haven't actually pulled off the back panel yet.


Good. smart way to go. Run thru the procedure a few times, find out what works and does not work, experiment (on axis, off axis, from the lp etc etc). Each time you do that you will gain familiarity with the software and the procedure.



> Have been speaking with Kim at DEQX. Luckily being local, he's can provide some hands on support. I told him about the Emotiva amps that I'm intending to use and that's piqued his curiousity as he was astounded at their price. I think he just wants to have a good listen to these amps lol


That mean you a syd guy?? feel free to pop out if you are, we can go thru the entiore procedure on my system as long as required for you to 'learn the ropes'. I mean YOU do it, I drink beer and break your ears by complaining about audiophiles haha. (you gotta supply the beer tho) By doing it rather than watching it you learn that much quicker.

anyway, as I said if you feel like dropping an email do so (presume it is in my profile)


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## Gior (Mar 21, 2009)

So you are just spitting distance away in Bathurst?  My cousin went to Uni over there.

Yup, I'm in Sydney (about 40mins out or so just past Liverpool). If I popped out I'd bring a carton of beer lol. Don't blame me if I run a 20hz signal and your tweeter goes pop after I've had one too many though ok? 

I never did read your posts about cables lol. I've made a few choice comments myself on some forums about cables lol. I am however a strong believer in BLING VALUE. It's to help aid some of the Audiophools in their transition to audio nirvana . I even went and got some custom POWER cables made up with 'audiophile' grade connectors (Furutech if you've ever heard of that Jap brand) for kicks and giggles. Only just recently got round to hooking em up lol. So far I've noticed that they pass power to my equip just like my previous oem power cables which I guess is a good thing. I would've been upset if they didn't work or caught alight lol.


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## terry j (Jul 31, 2006)

Gior said:


> Yup, I'm in Sydney (about 40mins out or so just past Liverpool). If I popped out I'd bring a carton of beer lol.


 XXXX Bitter.



> Don't blame me if I run a 20hz signal and your tweeter goes pop after I've had one too many though ok?


This seems to be at the bottom of your fears. Let's see if I can allay them slightly.

For sure, you could be a complete idiot when it comes to speakers (you being general rather than you personally) and cross the tweeter to the mid at 800 hz say.

Well, assuming it is your first go you'd at least play it quietly for a little rather than straight to FULL volume. I reckon the tweeter would probably survive, but the sound would be awful rough. So straight away you'd have signs that something was up.

If you were a complete newb, then the smart thing to do (either by measurement, article or even an e-mail to the manufacturer) is find out the pre-existing crossover points and simply use them. That way that side of things is sorted.

If you went straight to fully active, and you were worried about the tweeter, then you can be a little bit clever and plug the tweeter input (the one you're worried about) into the mid or bass driver. If you somehow made a mistake and sent a 20hz signal to the tweeter then the bass or mid driver would show that, and survive.

Another easy alternative, use rew (say) and send a bandlimited sweep (or pink noise) to the entire speaker, check that a sweep starting at 3000 only goes to the tweeter, a sweep from 300-3000 to the mid and 20-300 to the bass driver.

Not too hard to do a double check by means like that. Hope it made sense.

Re your cable desires haha, I must admit to getting perverse pleasure in seeing peoples reactions when they first look at mine, with the myriad of different stuff spliced into others (whenever I need to move the speakers-hence extend the cables- I simply add whatever is laying around using BP connectors, or failing that a bit of electrical tape works fine)

From memory, the internal wiring in the franks are different from left to right, what part of the house was being renovated at the time determined what sort of wiring went in, light wiring or power wiring. Or even what was in the original boxes that still fit, so a real hodge podge.

Sounds fine.


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## Gior (Mar 21, 2009)

terry j said:


> XXXX Bitter.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


XXXX Bitter - DONE!

I think I should be fine on it as I do know the specs of each of the drivers in use and will just set the xover points based around those 

I've heard that you also have a penchant for the most beat up digital sources you've found lying around too? That true as well?


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## terry j (Jul 31, 2006)

Gior said:


> XXXX Bitter - DONE!
> 
> I think I should be fine on it as I do know the specs of each of the drivers in use and will just set the xover points based around those
> 
> I've heard that you also have a penchant for the most beat up digital sources you've found lying around too? That true as well?


whatever gets the job done.

we all vary, but my 'mantra' is and always have been 'fix the speakers, fix the room'. The deqx is at the heart of my system, and one bored weekend I cracked open a few bales of f/glass laying around (house renos remember?? same source as my cables haha) and just started hanging them from string (temporarily of course...that they have been in for over a year does not change that!!) just to have a looksee what happened.

I was stunned.










just for larfs.

Anyway, the long and short of that is that there most definitely IS a heirarchy of relative importances in audio, and (for me) cables and source...digital at least....are way down the bottom.

using the deqx can throw a curve ball in what audiophiles would have as a natural arrangement, assuming digital then all you need the cdp for _is a transport_. Ie take straight digital feed into the deqx. No longer do we need to pay for expensive cdps and dacs etc etc.

Haha, it pays for itself! I mean there are plenty who have cdps or dacs that cost twice as much as the deqx unit itself, so it is good to have that in perspective.

Anyway, yeah I love stirring audiophiles who hear the system for the first time (and are blown away) by pointing to the back of the dvd player remote, from memory it says '$58, cash converters' nyuck nyuck.

So, did my earlier explanation soothe your troubled soul any regarding blowing up tweeters??


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## Gior (Mar 21, 2009)

You know, I think what my problem may be is that deep down I may WANT to blow up that tweeter...

I know with an almost certainty that I probably won't but part of me might just want to 

I'm certainly a believer in hierachy in audio! I think it starts with POWER CABLES for me - no power = dead equipment  (this is an in joke for me - there's a funny thread over on AVS forums that I was having GREAT fun with). It started with just one choice comment and then I expanded on it from there  If you ever get bored take a look. It got pretty funny especially when I started talking about PASSIVE INDUCTANCE.


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## terry j (Jul 31, 2006)

Gior said:


> You know, I think what my problem may be is that deep down I may WANT to blow up that tweeter...


Ahh, well that is easy to do if you really want!!

you won't be doing it on mine tho...I'll teach you how so you can do it when you get back home.

M7, then M4, pick up A9X along the way. simple.

ask alan @deqx if he reckons it is worth your while coming out for a listen.

anyway, if you have any questions re the doingness etc of the procedure, ask away. It may be of use to others browsing in the future.

If I don't see you out here, please keep us informed on how you went.:T


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## Gior (Mar 21, 2009)

terry j said:


> Ahh, well that is easy to do if you really want!!
> 
> you won't be doing it on mine tho...I'll teach you how so you can do it when you get back home.
> 
> ...


What amps are you using for the things Terry? Are they SS ones with cash converter stickers on em too? 

I'll bug Alan once he gets back from holidays. Have been dealing with the big boss hehe. The big bosss is all curious about these Emotiva amps that I'm getting shipped in as he's astounded at their price. Hopefully he comes out for a bit of a sticky once when I get it up and running


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## Lucky7! (Jan 7, 2008)

Gior, you really should make the drive out and hear TJ's system. It's _most_ excellent. Seriously, you need to hear it to get a reference.

I'll come along too if you decide to go.



terry j said:


> Ahh, well that is easy to do if you really want!!
> 
> you won't be doing it on mine tho...I'll teach you how so you can do it when you get back home.
> 
> ...


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## Gior (Mar 21, 2009)

A9X said:


> Gior, you really should make the drive out and hear TJ's system. It's _most_ excellent. Seriously, you need to hear it to get a reference.
> 
> I'll come along too if you decide to go.


Is one case of XXXX bitter gonna be enough?

I'm very tempted to drive out there probably will do so after my ankle heals up. Still busted after snowboarding a couple months ago


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## maxserg (Dec 11, 2008)

The main question remains.

That is a question about protecting midrange and tweeters when they are in an active xover configuration.

I would be cautious on the fact that mids and tweet directly connected to the power amp is something dangerous when a power failure happens. When the power returns after a short or long interruption(never happened to anybody?), when all the power amps return to ON it may happens some dc surge from the power amps or the el. x-over themselves. So some caps would be favorable whitout disturbing their freq. range or make some colouration(interfere) in the sound. We need some transparent protection here.(outside of the x-over range of the components)

Question: Is it possible to have some capacitors to protect those precious drivers in a power failure or mistweak from the active x-over?


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## Lucky7! (Jan 7, 2008)

Gior said:


> Is one case of XXXX bitter gonna be enough?


It's a start. A pallet might be better.



Gior said:


> I'm very tempted to drive out there probably will do so after my ankle heals up. Still busted after snowboarding a couple months ago


A sore ankle is stopping you? Wuss.
Let me know when you're going as I'm also due a visit. I'm near Parra.

In case you haven't seen it, here's the hairy git's system. Pics of completed around post 68.


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## Lucky7! (Jan 7, 2008)

maxserg said:


> The main question remains.
> 
> That is a question about protecting midrange and tweeters when they are in an active xover configuration.
> 
> ...


Every decent amp I know has enough onboard protection and start up delays to make this a non issue, especially for cone mids. If you are that worried about the tweets add a series cap > 1 octave below xover. The DEQX software is very robust and idiot proof (Terry uses it - sorry mate, couldn't resist) so the likelihood of a software error is extremely low.

I never used series caps in PA xovers either and they took a lot more abuse than any home system I know, with the possible exception of TJ. I've been running active systems on and off for 20 years and never had a failure because of this.


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## maxserg (Dec 11, 2008)

A9X said:


> Every decent amp I know has enough onboard protection and start up delays to make this a non issue, especially for cone mids. If you are that worried about the tweets add a series cap > 1 octave below xover. The DEQX software is very robust and idiot proof (Terry uses it - sorry mate, couldn't resist) so the likelihood of a software error is extremely low.
> 
> I never used series caps in PA xovers either and they took a lot more abuse than any home system I know, with the possible exception of TJ. I've been running active systems on and off for 20 years and never had a failure because of this.


I've not read the entire post so maybe my post doesn't have any issue here. But all amps I suppose aren't created equal when a power failure happens.

My 2 cents:blink:


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## Lucky7! (Jan 7, 2008)

maxserg said:


> But all amps I suppose aren't created equal when a power failure happens.


Moral: use good amps.


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## maxserg (Dec 11, 2008)

A9X said:


> Moral: use good amps.


:innocent::rofl2:


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## terry j (Jul 31, 2006)

Gior said:


> What amps are you using for the things Terry? Are they SS ones with cash converter stickers on em too?


whatever is laying around. hmm, that sounds familiar. I am sorry, but when it comes to amps (as well as cables, leads, source, interconnects haha) I___just___don't___care.

as long as they don't clip, are not noisy (fans etc etc) then they'll do. Cheap is _always _better than expensive I might add.



maxserg said:


> The main question remains.
> 
> Question: Is it possible to have some capacitors to protect those precious drivers in a power failure or mistweak from the active x-over?


Actually maxserg, very good point. Dunno, but I kinda just interpreted the question as a ""DEQX"" question. Putting a cap on the tweeter is just a general thing one does, so well done, thanks for bringing it up.



A9X said:


> The DEQX software is very robust and idiot proof (Terry uses it - sorry mate, couldn't resist) so the likelihood of a software error is extremely low.


Hmmph..trouble is I can't argue the point. In fact, I use the same thing myself..."what do you mean it is hard to understand?? _*I*_ use it!"



> I never used series caps in PA xovers either and they took a lot more abuse than any home system I know, with the possible exception of TJ. I've been running active systems on and off for 20 years and never had a failure because of this.


Ah yes, but where does my system fall...is it PA or hi fi:huh:

Anyway, being as amoral as I am, I don't use good (or bad) amps, just anyold.

(Seein as how Brett showed the diy build thread, may as well use this link. less of me just yabbaring away and more of a summary...less boring http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...my-speaker-build-about-time-i-showed-you.html)


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## Gior (Mar 21, 2009)

So a series cap on the tweeters ARE a good idea? That's what I was kinda wondering about. So if I want to 'protect' my tweeters with pretty much zippo audible effect I should stick a 26.5 microfarad cap in series with it? Am using a 6 ohm tweeter good for 2000hz and up - so we are wanting the cap to kick it at 1000hz which is about an octave below which should have zippo effect on the sound but offer some measure of protection? Or is this a waste of effort doing that? Or should I go 2 octaves below with a 53 microfarad cap?


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## terry j (Jul 31, 2006)

sorry for the bum steer, but if that was where you were going all this time then for sure, go for it. Don't ask me to do the calcs for you, should be plenty of formulas around.

Don't forget, at that low level of 'effect'-purely for protection-the audible effects will be minimal, and in any case form part of the measurement chain and so are accounted for.

It all then comes down to how much of an audiophile you are when deciding cap quality!!:devil:


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## Gior (Mar 21, 2009)

Well I found these guys on Stereo net! With the strong dollar 5000 or so euro's a bargain right? 

_______________________________
new kids on the block or not so new http://www.duelundaudio.com/index.htm .

Cheers.[/b]
They approached us to handle the parts here, so far we haven't done anything about it as I am not sure how well they'd sell. I particularly liked the retail price on their 20uF Silver Foil capacitors... €5230-. each. Ex tax.... Hmmmm. Malcolm, how many should I order for you?? :wink:
Leon Gross
Soundlabs Group
Mundorf, Visaton, Monacor, Auricap, DACT, Raysonic, Eichmann, JohnBlue, Leben and much more...
Ph. (02) 4627-8766
__________________

Maybe I should give Leon a call to see if he did end up taking on those caps. If he did, he's only like 10-15 mins drive from my place!


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## Gior (Mar 21, 2009)

Well yeah, that's kind of what I was after lol.

Did YOU use protection with Cinderella? Or did you just go in straight?


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## Lucky7! (Jan 7, 2008)

Gior said:


> Maybe I should give Leon a call to see if he did end up taking on those caps. If he did, he's only like 10-15 mins drive from my place!


Leon is a great guy, with somewhat eccentric taste in music. Visiting him may not get you any caps as the last I ordered shipped from Melb where the warehouse is.

I use the white Mundorfs when I need them as they're inexpensive, well made and available locally.


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## aechmea (Dec 22, 2009)

Hi all,

I have had a DEQX HD3P for a couple of years. At the time it was set-up by the DEQX installer, and the profiles have been fine.
Recently though I have bought some new amps and repositioned my speakers so it is time to do a full re-calibration rather than just tinker with the odd equalisation curve.

The question that I would like your help on is ....
"why did the original installer choose "single amp with stereo subs" as the configuration type?"

I really can't see why he didn't choose a standard "bi-amped" config. I thought that it was an unusual choice at the time. 

My speakers are Magneplanar 3.6R panel speakers which are 3-way but able to be easily bi-amped with the ribbon and mid-panel considered as a single driver with the bass panel as the other driver. The standard cross-over between bass panel and highs is 200Hz.

What I have thought of so far is ...
:huh:
Habit - he always does it that way.
Repetition - he had someone-elses config files to copy, saving time.
Technical - he prefers to measure bass driver response in the listening position? Why? Preference or technical reason?

Can anyone think of a good reason?

Thanks


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## terry j (Jul 31, 2006)

aechmea said:


> Technical - *he prefers to measure bass driver response in the listening position*? Why? Preference or technical reason?


bingo.

why..because it sounds far better. Nothing at all from stopping yourself trying it the other way and compare of course. what matters is what YOU prefer, and if you find you prefer not correcting from the chair then go for it.

I do stuff that alan 'refuses' to accept as the right way to do it, but time and time again I much prefer my way. No rules here.

it will be interesting when you remeasure with the new amps. BTW, when you swapped did you hear a difference with new amps and old settings?

The reason I am curious is I once corrected a pair of speakers with a DEQ 2496. Later on I brought my amp (ie different amp) and just put it in.

we could not work out why it sounded quite bad. In exasperation I remeasured and corrected with MY amp in and guess what!!

By now most of you would know I am not an 'amp' (or cable, or dac, or yada yada) person in audio, so that was a real surprise for me.

My working theory is NOT that amps make this difference that the audiophiles rave on about, but when we measure and correct the speaker and amp as a combo, then swapping the amp seems top make more of a difference. As I say, just 'figuring', not saying it is true.

So I would no longer be surprised that re-measuring and calibrating with the new amps in the chain could potentially make quite an improvement.

Where will you ultimately end up do you think, fully tri amped or just bi amped?


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## aechmea (Dec 22, 2009)

terry j said:


> it will be interesting when you remeasure with the new amps. BTW, when you swapped did you hear a difference with new amps and old settings?


Yes. I reckon that the highs are softer/silkier now (good) and the lows are more prominent (bad). BUT the problem is that I moved the speaker position and swapped them L to R at the same time as I installed the new amps, so I can't be sure as to what exactly caused the change.

This is why I really need to do the whole DEQX setup again from square one as nothing is the same any more.



terry j said:


> So I would no longer be surprised that re-measuring and calibrating with the new amps in the chain could potentially make quite an improvement.
> 
> Where will you ultimately end up do you think, fully tri amped or just bi amped?


Gee. I hope so. The system is 'good' now; I'm shooting for 'excellent'; then the world :T

Not sure about the triamping yet. I do have a spare power amp that would be very suitable. The sticking point is that to get to the XO between the ribbon and the mid panel of the Maggies will require a bit of surgery as that XO is hidden inside the framework somewhere.

At the moment I'm focussing on getting metal frames made (by my father in law - so the price is right! He's 84 and I reckon that he forgets that he is building them sometimes) to add rigidity to the big panels and coupling them to the concrete slab through the carpet. After that I want to do work with the room. Then maybe after that, triamping.

Cheers and thanks
Peter


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## maxserg (Dec 11, 2008)

terry j said:


> bingo.
> 
> it will be interesting when you remeasure with the new amps. BTW, when you swapped did you hear a difference with new amps and old settings?
> 
> ...


I guess that when you change the amp you should have the same gain structure if not, you will have surprizes:blink:


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## terry j (Jul 31, 2006)

nah, the problem was not with different gain on the amp. In any case, that time I uised the deq it still had the internal crtossover, so different gain does not matter (ie drivers stay the same relative to each other)

That it sounded different shocked me (I not an amp guy, if anything I lean to the richard clark school of thought), I guess the use of the equalizer meant it was some sort of acoustic 'lever'.


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