# HT Theater Design/Layout Question



## CroweDaddy (Oct 7, 2013)

Hopefully this is the right area to post these questions...

I'm struggling with whether I should enclose the HT room completely or leave it open ended. I've added some photos to show where the HT will be located. My main question is audio/quality of audio, what will I sacrifice if it's not enclosed?

 

Here's a shot looking toward the planned HT Room. The far wall will be where the screen will be placed. My plan was to build a wall (and entry door) right where the back of the sectional couch is located. I was asked the question by some friends "What if we want to shoot pool and watch the game"...I said, your not a true football fan then...but I can see instances where you may want to view something while other activities are going on in the basement. I've thought about putting a heavy curtain up so it can be rolled out when watching movies privately or opened when other's want to view. 

There is a room to the left of where the screen will be located which will house the equipment and an office...question, will the sound of the equipment be loud enough that I'll need to enclose it? If so I have a walled off section in the back that can be used.

  

Here are some other general shots of the basement which will include a bar, poker area/table, open workout area and a spare bedroom. The bar area will go where the existing office is framed out (first picture below).
 
  

Your thoughts/opinions are greatly appreciated by this newb:huh:


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## Mike Edwards (Mar 10, 2011)

honestly, I'd close it off. your subs will have a lot of work to try and pressurize that size room since not closing it off encapsulates ALL the open area in the calcs and your speakers will have some funky reverb issues on that side... if you're working on it like the pics It's easy peasy to just build a wall there to close it off


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

From and audio / video standpoint, you would want to close it off. As Mike said, you would not be able to pressurize that space well for the subs. Also, it will be harder to control ambient light which will dilute your picture quality.


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## dguarnaccia (Jul 17, 2008)

Ditto on closing it off. In addition to the comments about pressurization and such, how important it is to contain your sound? If you are anything like me, you like it loud and don't want to disturb the rest of your family. I went to great lengths to isolate the sound in my room, including stagger stud walls, double layer sheetrock with green glue and sound isolation clips. I means I can crank it up any time of the day or night and not get in trouble. I suspect you'll want the same ability down the road.


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## Tonto (Jun 30, 2007)

Fully agree with closing it off, wire in an outlet for a flat panal to hang on a wall for the pool players. I would also build in a false wall up front for your speakers to go behind. Will allow for more screen placement options. As far an the entry door being on the side, just don't put it where the surround speakers need to be. Can never plan too much! Looks like it will be a great room. And I would plan to keep that sectional about 4 ft off the back wall for optimum sound.


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## dougc (Dec 19, 2009)

I agree with the other guys, but to be the devil's advocate, leaving it open-ended would make the whole space more of an entertaining area rather than two small rooms. If you don't have people over for get togethers very often, I would seal it off. It is a very nice space suited to a great HT though, and bass could really pressurize the area well.


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## CroweDaddy (Oct 7, 2013)

Thanks for the input folks, it all falls into my current direction of thought...but thought I'd check with those who have been through this before. Closed off it is.

I have some more planning to do, but will probably start a build thread soon. 

Agreed Tonto, I plan on building a stage/false wall upfront to house speakers/sub, etc. The sectional leaves the HT room, wife had to buy new furniture when we moved in and this is the leftover from the old. Small price to pay for what I plan on doing . I plan on making that door into a concealed/hidden door. There is another entry into that room, but since the equipment will be housed there or in the back of that room, I don't want to have to walk around the entire space to get in that area...probably make it match the wall treatment/design and put a pneumatic lock trigger by pulling on a wall sconce or something like that...bring back a little ole Scooby Doo magic.


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## CroweDaddy (Oct 7, 2013)

Agreed dougc, we have people over but not routinely...mainly during during football season and during winter when we can't get outside. The basement is 2,300 sq. ft. The bathroom is already finished, but even with the media room (25 x 15 x 8) and the office (20 x 11 x 8), I should still have about 1,500 to 1,600 sq.ft. to play with. As Tonto suggested, I'll probably install a flat panel near the pool table.


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## CroweDaddy (Oct 7, 2013)

For those of you who have remodeled your basement...drop ceilings or drywall ceilings? I have 9ft ceilings in my basement, and would prefer not to lose the height of the room....but then there's the plumbing...drywall makes it much more difficult to get to for repairs. I plan on installing drywall on the ceilings in the HT room, but not sure about the rest of the basement. 

I know this is not directly related to HT, but I'll be placing an order for drywall soon and this kind of impacts the buy


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Personally, I would lean toward the drop ceiling. As you said, it is easier to remove one to get to pipes, cables, etc.

Also, should you have a leak, the drop ceiling will probably show it sooner than drywall. With drywall, water tends to take the path of least resistance - it could trickle down 10 feet before you start to see a drip.


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## bamabum (Dec 7, 2012)

I think the ceiling issue and the room close off comes down to form vs function.

A drop ceiling might add a dated look in many cases depending on materials. If you are in Northern Ohio I could see the pipe freezing issue. I would definitively insulate them regardless of how you choose to close off the ceiling.

I have an open room concept and my audio REW charts are not pretty like others. However, none of my friends ask to see the charts and everyone loves the sound in the room. I have not put true bass in the room yet so I can not speak to the pressurized area issue.

If I had a long room like that I would try to do some type of double closing doors in the rear that would allow the space to open and close.

I think in general you have to plan for 80% use. Is that movies and TV with the family or is entertaining the 80% use?


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## dguarnaccia (Jul 17, 2008)

If you want sound isolation, I wouldn't do drop ceilings. I'd do double sheet rock with green glue and sound isolation clips. That cuts down around 51db of signal getting through the wall, and bothering folks above you.


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## dougc (Dec 19, 2009)

dguarnaccia said:


> If you want sound isolation, I wouldn't do drop ceilings. I'd do double sheet rock with green glue and sound isolation clips. That cuts down around 51db of signal getting through the wall, and bothering folks above you.


2nd ^^^ There is an explanation with illustrations of proper sound isolation for rooms at http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/

It doubles your cost of drywall, and then about another $1000 for the clips and Green Glue, but it's the way to go to keep the sound in the room.


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## dguarnaccia (Jul 17, 2008)

It does cost more for sure, but worth every penny if you can swing it. It's one of the things often cited as things they wish they wouldn't have done if they could do it all over again.


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## dguarnaccia (Jul 17, 2008)

Here is my HT thread where I did the sound clips and the green gluehttp://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/home-theater-design-construction/56670-guarnaccia-mancave-3-0-a-3.html


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Apologies if I missed it earlier - completely agree with the guys above. If sound isolation is important, you have to go the drywall route. If you want to go one step beyond what Dan suggested, look at doing clips and channel as well.


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## CroweDaddy (Oct 7, 2013)

Thanks for the feedback. I plan on sheet rocking the entire media room (2nd layer with green glue) and will most likely use isolation clips...I was more interested in the remainder of the basement...the form vs. function issue. Sorry if I wasn't clear in my early post. I don't care for dropped ceilings...probably because I've grown accustomed to staring up at them all day in my office when I'm on the phone. I know they have a lot more styles in terms of patterns, color, etc...so I don't want to sell them short.

bamabum,
I've actually discussed this with a buddy of mine recently. He remodels for a living and we talked about building 'double' pocketing doors, which would allow the entire area to open up. My concern is sealing them tight at the top and bottom when the doors are closed. We were thinking of a weather stripping similar to the style that's used for garage doors...but something a little more industrial...we'd probably have to fabricate it. My question here would be...do you think I'd get a lot of vibration of the door from the bass?


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## bamabum (Dec 7, 2012)

Crowe,

I think sound isolation needs would be really difficult to accomplish with an open room concept. I am not sure on the bass rattles but others who do know will probably chime in. Weather stripping would be tricky with pocket doors. I would think the best sound isolation would be 2 outward swinging doors on the same frame that closed together with a common base strip. The closest thing I can think of would be exterior doors. http://www.brownmaterials.com/yardproduct.php?pid=29

If sound Isolation is not the issue, something like this would be awesome for a focal transition and light isolation.
Barn Doors


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