# My Hideaway construction Begins



## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

So my dedicated HT will be started next week as well as a separate play room for my kids (In basement) :bigsmile: The HT is going to be 30x11x8’6”, so it’s pretty long. The back 8’ will have a 10 person poker table for Monday night football/poker night. I have attached a sketch. The projector (Epson 8500UB) will be ceiling mounted at 14’ from the screen about 8” down, the screen will be the wall itself and anywhere from 90”- 112”. Audio is comprised of ONKYO HTIB 9400THX 7.1, front speakers will be front wall mounted at 40” high. The side surrounds will be wall mounted 6’ high at 1’ behind seating position. The rear surrounds will also be wall mounted 6’ high and 9’ behind seating position. The angles will be exactly as recommended, 22° for front, 100° for side and 150° for rear. The sub is TBD. 

I have a few questions regarding HVAC and sound proofing. The room will be in the basement of a 2 story house, all bedrooms are on the 2nd floor. I want to sound proof as much as I can and even though I would love to use whisper clips as well as DD/GG my budget does not allow it. I’m limited to R13 for walls and R19 for ceiling with 5/8 drywall on walls and ceiling. The reason DD/GG is out of the question is that the GG alone is $900 for coverage of 33 panels, cost prohibitive at this point. I could however just use two layers of drywall with no GG. Would this be a good idea or will it cause more harm than good? If so do I go with two layers of ½ , 3/8, 5/8 , or a combination of the three? They also sell this joint gasket tape (link below) that is supposed to decouple and dampen sounds, not as good as whisper clips but better than nothing I guess. Would this tape be beneficial? I also read that I can use GG on studs and joist in place of the tape, since this won't req. to much this option is also doable. So which is better on studs prior to hanging drywall GG or Joist tape? I could also use acoustical caulk for all the edges since I won’t require too much. Would this also be a good Idea? Oh and I will also be using putty pads on gang boxes. 

Now on to HVAC, the basement is naturally cool all year round, the original plant was to run a dedicated send and return to both halves of the basement. I know fear that by doing so the noise in the HT may travel through the ducts to the rest of house especially bedrooms. I think I have two options, the first is to not put a return or send in that room and just keep door open when not in use to avoid air getting stale and bringing in some cool/warm air. The second is to somehow recirculate the air from the other half of the room into the theater room. Similar to the door being opened but more efficient I guess. Any ideas:scratch:


http://www.tmsoundproofing.com/gasket-tape.html

View attachment Sketch.pdf


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

I would just build dead vents between the 2 spaces. Make them from duct board with a couple of bends in them and a fan to help circulate the air out in the other space. Put it in the return end to pull air out rather than trying to force are in. 

Double drywall will still certainly help by increasing the mass and lowering the resonance of the structure/cavity. Using 2 different thicknesses is a myth. Use as heavy as you can. 2x1/2 or 2x 5/8"

If you want a way to help a little bit, you can use DC-04 clips around the perimeter walls so they're somewhat decoupled from the rest of the structure. 

Bryan


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## BD55 (Oct 18, 2011)

This sounds like it's going to be a good build! Looking forward to seeing some progress next week!


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

bpape said:


> I would just build dead vents between the 2 spaces. Make them from duct board with a couple of bends in them and a fan to help circulate the air out in the other space. Put it in the return end to pull air out rather than trying to force are in.


Totaly lost me on this, looked up dead vents and I'm still not sure how to build it. So will there be 2 dead vents or just 1? 



bpape said:


> Double drywall will still certainly help by increasing the mass and lowering the resonance of the structure/cavity. Using 2 different thicknesses is a myth. Use as heavy as you can. 2x1/2 or 2x 5/8"


OK, I'll do 5/8. its only an additional $200. 



bpape said:


> If you want a way to help a little bit, you can use DC-04 clips around the perimeter walls so they're somewhat decoupled from the rest of the structure.


So if I understand this correctly, these DC-04 clips are used to attach the wall studs to the top and bottom plates essentially separating the drywall that will be attached to them from the rest of the framing? With my room size that means about 80 clips, so about $400. Wife will axe that in a heartbeat. Is the tape or using GG on the studs themselves not beneficial. That would run about $100 which the wife will OK. So, if the DD and tape/GG on studs will work I may just go that route. 

never thought there would be so much involved with building a HT.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

BD55 said:


> This sounds like it's going to be a good build! Looking forward to seeing some progress next week!


It won’t be fancy though, no pillars, stage or curtains. At the most maybe some HT Sconces but the cost may be too much for those as well. Can lights are cheaper. But it will still be a sweet hideaway.


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## BD55 (Oct 18, 2011)

devildog1679 said:


> It won’t be fancy though, no pillars, stage or curtains. At the most maybe some HT Sconces but the cost may be too much for those as well. Can lights are cheaper. But it will still be a sweet hideaway.


I've really enjoyed seeing the all-out crazy HTs shacksters put together here, but honestly, what it sounds like you are going to do is more in the realm of reality, and more of what I would like to do in the future in my basement, so it will be good to follow along with you. 

A simple and clean layout to me is what I like. Not to bag on people that do the all out, but having pillars and star lighting, a popcorn machine, etc. doesn't really entice me. Maybe if I had the funds :bigsmile:


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

BD55 said:


> I've really enjoyed seeing the all-out crazy HTs shacksters put together here, but honestly, what it sounds like you are going to do is more in the realm of reality, and more of what I would like to do in the future in my basement, so it will be good to follow along with you.
> 
> A simple and clean layout to me is what I like. Not to bag on people that do the all out, but having pillars and star lighting, a popcorn machine, etc. doesn't really entice me. Maybe if I had the funds :bigsmile:


This room will also double as a bedroom when we have guests so even though it will be primarily a HT it does have to stay functional as a BR.


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## Owen Bartley (Oct 18, 2006)

Alex, I can't give you a pro opinion on the gasket tape or GG/caulk on studs, but I think I remember reading somewhere that it wasn't the best idea... I just don't remember why. I know it won't isolate because you'll have the screws going right into the studs, but I would think it might help a little bit with panels possibly vibrating? Maybe with enough screws that won't be an issue anyway.

I think double drywall will be a big help if you can swing it, and also consider putting "strips" of drywall up between the joists before you do the rest of the ceiling/insulation. I know I've seen that on here before, and it should add a little bit more mass for the sound to travel through.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

Owen Bartley said:


> Alex, I can't give you a pro opinion on the gasket tape or GG/caulk on studs, but I think I remember reading somewhere that it wasn't the best idea... I just don't remember why. I know it won't isolate because you'll have the screws going right into the studs, but I would think it might help a little bit with panels possibly vibrating? Maybe with enough screws that won't be an issue anyway.
> 
> I think double drywall will be a big help if you can swing it, and also consider putting "strips" of drywall up between the joists before you do the rest of the ceiling/insulation. I know I've seen that on here before, and it should add a little bit more mass for the sound to travel through.


Thanks for your input. I'm probably going to forgo the GG or Gasket tape. Probably not worth the limited improvement. DD will be enough for me, who am I kidding I'm no HT aficionado. I got caught up in all these great rooms forgetting that there is a budget and that the main reason to finish the basement was to add a play room for my kids. So I decided that if I go over budget it will be in the kids room. Adding a swing, mini tree house and zip line for them.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Sorry - lost track of this thread. My apologies.

GG on the studs won't do much except spend money. If you want better isolation, you can use 1x3 slats perpendicular to the studs and screw the drywall into those. Not quite as effective as clips and channel but definitely an improvement in isolation and you only lose 3/4" on each wall in doing so.

2 dead vents. Gotta have a way to get air in and a way to get air out.

Bryan


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

bpape said:


> Sorry - lost track of this thread. My apologies.
> 
> GG on the studs won't do much except spend money. If you want better isolation, you can use 1x3 slats perpendicular to the studs and screw the drywall into those. Not quite as effective as clips and channel but definitely an improvement in isolation and you only lose 3/4" on each wall in doing so.
> 
> ...


I decided to just tap into existing HVAC and add a silencer to each as well as using a long run of 6" FLEX hose. DD and insulation will be all I do and going with Sconces vs. can lights to minimize noise seepage. Also sealant on all edges and electrical boxes.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

Started on the walls today as well as the bathroom. Also decided to add a zipline, tree house and climbing wall on the kids side of the basement. This is the reason I had to scale back on the soundproofing. So no GG for me


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## Owen Bartley (Oct 18, 2006)

devildog1679 said:


> Also decided to add a zipline, tree house and climbing wall on the kids side of the basement.


You have got some lucky kids! Can't blame you at all for that re-allocation of funds, keep the kids playing outside and active as long as you can. I'm sure they'll love those additions. I know I would have!


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

Owen Bartley said:


> You have got some lucky kids! Can't blame you at all for that re-allocation of funds, keep the kids playing outside and active as long as you can. I'm sure they'll love those additions. I know I would have!


Yea, the WI winters are long and cold. Going to be a mini playground down there. Plus the zip line will be rated up to 250


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

*WTF WTF WTF*

WTF, so we've lived in this house since it was built in 2008. Never so much as a hint of basement water leaking. Today after 2 days of rain I find water in one corner of the basement. Lucky that only the framing has been done. Guess its good this reared its head now rather than once everything was done. Possible causes are two, the first is that when nailing the PT floor plate it caused a crack that aided the water seepage. Unlikely though, the other is that the gutter on that corner of the basement was not far enough. This could be compounded by the fact that the empty lot next to us is finally being built on so they excavated the area and possibly disturbed something.

Solutions are to fix the gutter and then remove the framing and add drylock and other leak stopping materials. I'll also make sure this corner of the room is raisable so I can check periodically.

Any other thoughts?


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## Owen Bartley (Oct 18, 2006)

Water is a big concern for any basement construction I'd guess. On one hand, it's a shame that you have had that problem, but on the other, at least you noticed it now before going too far! 

I'd try to find the source of the leak if possible, and treat it there. If you can figure out where the water is coming in, maybe you can stop it. If you're not able to find and eliminate it, what about putting down something like a dricore subfloor? The only other thing I can think of is to build a removable section like you mentioned, and use something like the LeakFrog to tell you when you have a problem... http://www.leakfrog.com/leakfrog.html


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## BD55 (Oct 18, 2011)

I've had four floods (relatively minor) since we moved into our 2000-built home a year ago. Two from sprinklers breaking and essentially filling the window wells, one from a busted water heater, and another from a lot of rain and a detached rain gutter extension off the downspout. I fixed that downspout extension, which is only 3 feet long, and the next downpour didn't cause any flooding. They handle a surprising amount of water...so I would say keep an eye on them. I've gotten to the point where when it rains, I obsessively run outside and check them all to make sure they're attached!


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

Owen Bartley said:


> Water is a big concern for any basement construction I'd guess. On one hand, it's a shame that you have had that problem, but on the other, at least you noticed it now before going too far!
> 
> I'd try to find the source of the leak if possible, and treat it there. If you can figure out where the water is coming in, maybe you can stop it. If you're not able to find and eliminate it, what about putting down something like a dricore subfloor? The only other thing I can think of is to build a removable section like you mentioned, and use something like the LeakFrog to tell you when you have a problem... http://www.leakfrog.com/leakfrog.html


More than likely the source is twofold, first being the downspout that was only about 2’ from foundation and the other is the excavation of the lot right next to us for a new construction. I doubt the issue was caused when the floor plate was nailed into the concrete. That leak frog looks interesting. Thanks



BD55 said:


> I've had four floods (relatively minor) since we moved into our 2000-built home a year ago. Two from sprinklers breaking and essentially filling the window wells, one from a busted water heater, and another from a lot of rain and a detached rain gutter extension off the downspout. I fixed that downspout extension, which is only 3 feet long, and the next downpour didn't cause any flooding. They handle a surprising amount of water...so I would say keep an eye on them. I've gotten to the point where when it rains, I obsessively run outside and check them all to make sure they're attached!


Yep, I'll be checking that same spot more often.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

Some progress pics

Entrance into Basement








HT Room








Full bath in kids play area


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## Owen Bartley (Oct 18, 2006)

BD55 said:


> I've gotten to the point where when it rains, I obsessively run outside and check them all to make sure they're attached!


Lol... that reminds me of the time in university when we had a hard rainstorm after a very recent basement flood. 3 of us ran outside in the pouring rain to try to fix the grading around the house so water wouldn't pour into the window wells, but we had no shovels. We used hands, a baking sheet, and some sticks we found nearby to do all of our excavation. The shocking thing is it actually worked. If 3 half-educated (and probably half in the bag) students could fix it, I'm sure you can.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

Going to speak to builder next door to ensure they grade that are properly so it doesn't push all the water to my lot. May even see if he might want to grade my area while he's at it.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

I would also check to make sure your sump pump is operational.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

ALMFamily said:


> I would also check to make sure your sump pump is operational.


It is, it's dry. No water made to it.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

Framing and electrical is just about done. Deciding on speaker wire route as well as projector wires route. Other than a HDMI cable to connect the projector to the receiver what other cable should I run to the projector. I was told a DVI for the laptop but my receiver has a DVI connection so I can just connect the laptop to the receiver. The receiver also has a Ethernet connection so I think just the HDMI connecting the receiver to projector is needed.


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## BD55 (Oct 18, 2011)

May as well run CAT6 or whatever other wires you could use in the future for crazy stuff like a projector lift or some other automation or lighting controls.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

BD55 said:


> May as well run CAT6 or whatever other wires you could use in the future for crazy stuff like a projector lift or some other automation or lighting controls.


Running 1.5" PVC instaed, cheaper than running wires I may never need. If needed, I can just fish them through.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

In deciding ear level for the fronts do I use the tweeter center point or the midpoint b/w tweeter and woofer?


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Tweeter centerpoint.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

ALMFamily said:


> Tweeter centerpoint.


Ok, Thanks setting up the blocking for speaker mounts tomorrow. Just got back from FL


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

How are the feet?! :bigsmile:


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

ALMFamily said:


> How are the feet?! :bigsmile:


Swollen LOL. Good time though. You'll be around this weekend?


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

I prefer to use the acoustic center of the speaker. Or at least the pseudo - center if more than a 2 way. To find that point, go 1/2 between the center of the tweeter and center of the woofer. That usually leaves you up on the edge of the woofer cone or on the surround - pending the diameter and spacing of the woofer.

I just personally don't like to be right on axis with most tweeters out there. I prefer to be just a little bit off (but I've been told that before.... :huh: )

Bryan


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

devildog1679 said:


> Swollen LOL. Good time though. You'll be around this weekend?


Won't be on Saturday - son has basketball and then we have their b-day get together. Think I will be on Sunday - hopefully working on the HT! 



bpape said:


> I prefer to use the acoustic center of the speaker. Or at least the pseudo - center if more than a 2 way. To find that point, go 1/2 between the center of the tweeter and center of the woofer. That usually leaves you up on the edge of the woofer cone or on the surround - pending the diameter and spacing of the woofer.
> 
> I just personally don't like to be right on axis with most tweeters out there. I prefer to be just a little bit off (but I've been told that before.... :huh: )
> 
> Bryan


Bryan,

Please correct me if I am wrong - low frequencies are non-directional whereas higher frequencies tend to be more directional - is that right? I was thinking this was the reason most people tend to place speakers such that the tweeter was more on plane with the listener's ears.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Bass frequencies are omni-directional - that is, they radiate spherically in 3 dimensions. Very high frequencies propagate in a straight line like a ray, which is why we use domes, phase guides, etc. to help spread them out. There is no hard cutoff between one and the other. It is a gradual change to ray like behavior and spherical behavior. 

That said, if you look at the xover point between a typical woofer/midrange to a tweeter, it will be in the low kHz range which can still be pretty directional. Then add in that in order to achieve decent off axis power response, many tweeters are a bit 'hot' when sitting right on axis both vertical and horizontal. Lastly, add in that we are trying to couple the sound to the picture to lock it well both horizontally and vertically.

All of those things tend to lead me to have the speakers in a home theater type environment generally a bit higher than normal and to use the acoustic center rather than the tweeter axis. Some will disagree - that's my experience and my personal preference. Others may vary and the speaker does definitely play a part in the decision.

Bryan


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Thanks for the explanation Bryan - I did not take into account that the woofers on a speaker would be outputting mids in the kHz range.

Alex - I would go with Bryan's suggestion. I will likely do the same in my own space.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Like I said, it depends on the speaker. What I described above was for a typical 2 way monitor or 2 way floor stander. If it's a 3 or 3.5 way, then I would just use the acoustic center between the mid and tweeter. The woofer will likely cross to the midrange in the low hundreds plus the spacing between the drivers in most cases would put you quite a bit off axis of the tweeter vertically. 

Bryan


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

ALMFamily said:


> Thanks for the explanation Bryan - I did not take into account that the woofers on a speaker would be outputting mids in the kHz range.
> 
> Alex - I would go with Bryan's suggestion. I will likely do the same in my own space.


Maybe Sunday then.



bpape said:


> Like I said, it depends on the speaker. What I described above was for a typical 2 way monitor or 2 way floor stander. If it's a 3 or 3.5 way, then I would just use the acoustic center between the mid and tweeter. The woofer will likely cross to the midrange in the low hundreds plus the spacing between the drivers in most cases would put you quite a bit off axis of the tweeter vertically.
> 
> Bryan


Attached is a picture of both the center and the L&R fronts as well as their specs. So for the center I was thinking of having the tweeter centered on the viewing position at 38” high (ear level). The L&R fronts I am a bit confused now because I have two woofers not just one?


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Ah. That's an MTM design. The acoustic center is the center of the tweeter. Personally, I would still have the center up a few inches above ear level more between 1/3 and 1/2 up the screen height.

Bryan


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

bpape said:


> Ah. That's an MTM design. The acoustic center is the center of the tweeter. Personally, I would still have the center up a few inches above ear level more between 1/3 and 1/2 up the screen height.
> 
> Bryan


So that would mean having the tweeters at let’s say 46” vs. 38”(ear level). Problem with this is that the center speaker can’t go any higher than 40” because it will cut into my screen size. Ideally I would want all three at same height correct?


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

That few inches difference won't matter much.

Bryan


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

bpape said:


> That few inches difference won't matter much.
> 
> Bryan


OK, Thanks


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

Placed putty pads on the electrical gangs and installed the gangs for the wires. Running 700’ of wire tonight :unbelievable:


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

So I ran the wires for one side of the room. Took about 1 hour. Luckily i made the pass through hole big enough to accomodate up 8 wires. Also finished the kids TV wall and the installed shower.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Nice progress Alex!! :T


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

ALMFamily said:


> Nice progress Alex!! :T


Thanks, I’m finishing the cabling tonight then its insulation and drywall install time. You did say you might be around on Sunday right?


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

I will until about 4PM. My step-dad is coming up about noon to start looking at the AV closet - but the morning is pretty wide open.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

ALMFamily said:


> I will until about 4PM. My step-dad is coming up about noon to start looking at the AV closet - but the morning is pretty wide open.


Would you mind if my father and mom come as well. He's the one doing most of the work.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

It is going to be a party!! :bigsmile:

What time were you thinking?


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

ALMFamily said:


> It is going to be a party!! :bigsmile:
> 
> What time were you thinking?


Somewhere between 10 and 12. I will give you a call in the morning. Sorry about the crew but they all want to see it, they don't believe me that what I'm doing pares in comparison to soem  

I finished all the wire runs. Used up about 600' of speaker wire and 210' of sub wire. Still need to run the pvc conduit and HDMI for Projector. The kids play area is done, just tapeing and mudding is left.


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## Ile (Nov 23, 2010)

devildog1679 said:


> The reason DD/GG is out of the question is that the GG alone is $900 for coverage of 33 panels, cost prohibitive at this point. I could however just use two layers of drywall with no GG.


Also tile mortar can be used to bond two drywall together. Maybe not as effective that GG because it's not as flexible, but still better than nothing and cost will be fraction.

It have been used in some HT and studio projects around here.


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## Zeitgeist (Apr 4, 2009)

Ile said:


> Also tile mortar can be used to bond two drywall together. Maybe not as effective that GG because it's not as flexible, but still better than nothing and cost will be fraction.
> 
> It have been used in some HT and studio projects around here.


Interesting, never heard of tile mortar being used for that. Curious how well it works.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

Ile said:


> Also tile mortar can be used to bond two drywall together. Maybe not as effective that GG because it's not as flexible, but still better than nothing and cost will be fraction.
> 
> It have been used in some HT and studio projects around here.


Does it add any sound benefit as does the GG?


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

My biggest concern with using the tile mortar would be it drying so solid - when GG dries, it is like gum. I would be concerned that vibrations would transfer easily. I would be curious to know how well it performs too.....


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

ALMFamily said:


> My biggest concern with using the tile mortar would be it drying so solid - when GG dries, it is like gum. I would be concerned that vibrations would transfer easily. I would be curious to know how well it performs too.....


Yea, I'm drywalling that area starting today with the second layer going on Monday. Not sure about the mortar?


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

So going paint shopping tomorrow. The walls will be a dark grey and the ceiling a dark maroon or vice versa. The viewing wall will be Behr #1850 tinted to Glidden 'Universal Gray' as Harpmaker suggested. I know a short nap roller is preferred but what about the nap material? Which is best wool, foam, polyester etc…


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## phillihp23 (Mar 14, 2012)

Project moving along nicely. Way to keep it rolling, with all those other project going on at the same time (kids play room, shower, etc.) Glad that water issue got resolved for ya. Looks like before long you will have things up and runnning. :T


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Personally, I like the foam. The others always seem to start shedding when I am about done and leaving material in my paint job.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

Double post


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

phillihp23 said:


> Project moving along nicely. Way to keep it rolling, with all those other project going on at the same time (kids play room, shower, etc.) Glad that water issue got resolved for ya. Looks like before long you will have things up and runnning. :T


I hope to be done by Tuesday. The kids area is going to rock.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

ALMFamily said:


> Personally, I like the foam. The others always seem to start shedding when I am about done and leaving material in my paint job.


Good point.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

So we got all the drywall done. Tomorrow we mud, tape, and sand. Also need to add blocking in the kids room for the zip line.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

Zip Line is operational.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

devildog1679 said:


> Zip Line is operational.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8XEWyBwPQ0


Now that is awesome! My wife is sitting here with me and immediately said "Oh - can we get one?!"

Thanks - thanks a lot!


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

ALMFamily said:


> Now that is awesome! My wife is sitting here with me and immediately said "Oh - can we get one?!"
> 
> Thanks - thanks a lot!


That's what you get for making me want a star light ceiling  To be honest it's a simple kit, less than $100. 100lb max so I'm out


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## Owen Bartley (Oct 18, 2006)

That looks awesome. What a great feature to have for the kids!


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

Owen Bartley said:


> That looks awesome. What a great feature to have for the kids!


The way i look at it, the more appealing their room is the less likly hood of them entering mine


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

The mudding and taping guy is hard at work. Hope to have all the painting done by Sunday so that Monday is used to install doors and trim. Them Tuesday will be final touchups and mounting of Projector and Speakers 

Some progress pics

Wire run for speakers








Insulation








Drywalled








Kids Room


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Looking good Alex! :T


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

ALMFamily said:


> Looking good Alex! :T


Thanks, hope to start painting on Monday. SHould be done painting by Tuesday, then doors and molding Wed. Finally projector and speaker mounting on Thursday.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

Will have some pics tomorrow. All is painted, projector is mounted, doors and moldings are going in today as well as speakers. I do think we fell short on lighting in HT. We added 3 sconces on each side in a 11x30 room. I got 65W bulbs in now maybe 100W would be better.


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## Owen Bartley (Oct 18, 2006)

Alex, you're getting close to the finish! That must be a great feeling. 

For the lighting, if the sconces aren't on dimmers you can try CFL bulbs. We replaced 60w incandescents in our house with the "= 100w" CFLs, which I think are 26w or so, and it made a nice improvement.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

Owen Bartley said:


> Alex, you're getting close to the finish! That must be a great feeling.
> 
> For the lighting, if the sconces aren't on dimmers you can try CFL bulbs. We replaced 60w incandescents in our house with the "= 100w" CFLs, which I think are 26w or so, and it made a nice improvement.


Yea, just cleaning up now. Will post pics this weekend. The sconces are on dimmers. I got 23W dimmable CFLs but they don't work nicely with the dimmers  So I put in 100W incandescent. Vp


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## Owen Bartley (Oct 18, 2006)

I think you need special dimmers to work with "dimmable" CFLs. I found that out the hard way too, in our dark living room. Great for movie time, but not ideal the rest of the day. I wonder how risky it is putting 100's in a 60w fixture? I know our fixture is rated for 60 and I haven't tried bumping them up yet, hopefully your fixtures can handle the extra wattage.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

Owen Bartley said:


> I think you need special dimmers to work with "dimmable" CFLs. I found that out the hard way too, in our dark living room. Great for movie time, but not ideal the rest of the day. I wonder how risky it is putting 100's in a 60w fixture? I know our fixture is rated for 60 and I haven't tried bumping them up yet, hopefully your fixtures can handle the extra wattage.


My sconces are 100w max. I'll be upgrading from 60 tomorrow.


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## doublejroc (Feb 5, 2011)

Special dimmers are required for CFLs. Should be clearly labeled on the package if you were to pick one up.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

doublejroc said:


> Special dimmers are required for CFLs. Should be clearly labeled on the package if you were to pick one up.


Guess I'll have to check my Luton Dimmers on their site. Thanks


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

Pics, still waiting on carpet and chairs.


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## Owen Bartley (Oct 18, 2006)

What a great room for the kids... a swing set INSIDE the house, with rings and a zipline. And is that a climbing wall? You must have scored some huge dad points there.  Oh, I hope the carpet is going to be thick in that room!

The theatre looks really nice too, and I can see how the dark walls suck up the light. Looks very cozy, well done on both rooms.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

Owen Bartley said:


> What a great room for the kids... a swing set INSIDE the house, with rings and a zipline. And is that a climbing wall? You must have scored some huge dad points there.  Oh, I hope the carpet is going to be thick in that room!
> 
> The theatre looks really nice too, and I can see how the dark walls suck up the light. Looks very cozy, well done on both rooms.


Yes, that is a climbing wall, just need to add the holds to the other half. Carpet won't be thick since its Berber, but we are adding mats be with the wall and at end of zip line. The HT came out great except tat I'm not happy with the picture. I painted the wall but you can still tell. Thinking a actual screen or Sintra board is needed.


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## Owen Bartley (Oct 18, 2006)

Yeah, you can always add a screen later though, at least you're just about up and running. Once you're itching for another project you can start researching all of the DIY screens from paint mixes and laminate to spandex. You can make a nice fancy velvet blackout border, and maybe even a set of masking panels for different formats.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

Owen Bartley said:


> Yeah, you can always add a screen later though, at least you're just about up and running. Once you're itching for another project you can start researching all of the DIY screens from paint mixes and laminate to spandex. You can make a nice fancy velvet blackout border, and maybe even a set of masking panels for different formats.


It looks good for now but my HD movies look like regular movies  Good for now I guess. I can see that HT are a work in progress. I do love my Harmony 900, controls everything via RF 


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## phillihp23 (Mar 14, 2012)

Looking Great. Nice work, wish i had a basement like that when i was growing up :dumbcrazy:


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## Todd Anderson (Jul 24, 2009)

Nice Work!!! Good choice of colors... Room is looking fantastic! I'm sure you're going to enjoy it for years to come.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

27dnast said:


> Nice Work!!! Good choice of colors... Room is looking fantastic! I'm sure you're going to enjoy it for years to come.


Thanks, the kids better enjoy it. It cost a small fortune.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Looks great Alex!! :T

Like Owen said, you can always put up a screen later - maybe give it a bit to sink and and see what you think after viewing it for a month or two.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

ALMFamily said:


> Looks great Alex!! :T
> 
> Like Owen said, you can always put up a screen later - maybe give it a bit to sink and and see what you think after viewing it for a month or two.


Thanks, deffinitly glad to be done. The picture is not bad but just notm HD quality. Fine for now but a screen is deffinitly needed. Just have a little ods and ends to clean up.


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