# HDMI vs TOSLINK for audio



## geopango (Jun 24, 2012)

Hi There
My system is an all digital line input setup with a common DA for all sources.
For audio I'm taking the toslink output for each source and assigning it to a switchbox and then on to the DA.
For audio/video I'm employing HDMI out, into the Sony Bravia TV which also outputs digital audio via the toslink output, into the switchbox and then to the DA.
There is the temptation to do away with the parallel toslink audio feed and simply rely on using the TV as a giant source switcher and therefore rely only on HDMI cables with a single toslink cable feeding the DA.
The main motivation for this is doing away with cable clutter.
I'm not that keen on using the TV as the main audio source for , Apple TV's, DVD players, XBOX's and what not, and besides I would have to switch on the TV just to listen to a song.
Any body else experiencing a similar dilemma with digital cable clutter?
George


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## Peter Loeser (Aug 11, 2012)

As tidy as it would be, I would also avoid using the TV for audio selection, as you may not have as much control over what processing it will do, and what will be coming out of the TOSLINK output. Tell us a little more about the rest of your system. What is your DA connected to - receiver, pre-amp, power amp?


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## hjones4841 (Jan 21, 2009)

Welcome to Home Theater Shack! Please visit us often.

If you wish to have HD audio, such as DTS-MA, on blu rays you will need HDMI connections. Neither optical or coax digital connections have sufficient bandwidth for HD audio.


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## geopango (Jun 24, 2012)

Hi Pete
The core of my system is a Pilgham Audio modified Behringer DXC2496 loudspeaker management system, which acts as the D/A, DSP crossover and also boasts a built in six channel analogue volume control.
Six preamp outputs interface with a six channel DIY Hypex power amplifier which then feeds my 12" 3way speakers. No analogue inputs here. All sources which include an IMAC, Apple TV,WDTV, HDTV, XBOX360 and Panasonic DVD player output to a toslink switcher. The signal is then converted from light pipe to AES/EBU for interfacing with the DA. My favorite way of controlling this system is via the Apple Remote app for IOS controlling Itunes on the IMAC and Apple TV.
Would be great if I could build in a HDMI input on the D/A.


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## Peter Loeser (Aug 11, 2012)

So for each source you have an HDMI cable running to your display for video, and an optical audio cable running to your switcher>DAC/mixer>amp. It sounds like you're looking for a way to eliminate duplicate cables and be able to switch between source audio/video together, rather than switch video on the display and audio on your TOSLINK switch. You need something with HDMI source inputs, at least one HDMI output, and an optical audio output. There's got to be an AVR out there that does that. Looks like some Denon models do this. Then you could run a single HDMI cable from there to your display, and a single TOSLINK cable from there to your DAC/mixer. All of your switching would be done by the AVR and your DAC/DSP/amp setup would remain the same. All with less cables. Am I making sense, or missing your objective?


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## geopango (Jun 24, 2012)

Hi Pete
you're right about my connection arrangement.
I have just discovered one of these- http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AC1625
Which is exactly what I was thinking of and would input of all of my HDMI sources used for music, and output via a common HDMI and coaxial and toslink spdif.
Suspiciously cheap however!!


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## Peter Loeser (Aug 11, 2012)

Yep, that would indeed meet your requirements without the need to purchase a receiver. I'm a little curious about this statement in the description though:


> HDMI conveniently integrates both audio and video signals, however it results in less than optimal audio output.


I suppose for what it does it wouldn't need to be terribly expensive.


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## geopango (Jun 24, 2012)

This looks like a much better product, simply installed on the end of a 3 or 4 way HDMI switcher.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AC1637


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## Peter Loeser (Aug 11, 2012)

Interesting, that would do the trick too. Do you already have an HDMI switch?


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