# Epson PowerLite® Home Cinema 3010/3010e Official Thread



## mechman

The PowerLite®Home Cinema 3010 and 3010e are designed to offer home entertainment AV enthusiasts and videophiles outstanding 3D and 2D big screen image quality for an affordable price. These native resolution 1080p 3LCD™ projectors feature a contrast ratio of up to 40,000:1, brightness of up to 2,200 lumens for the highest in their class* and built-in speakers for an excellent home cinema experience. And, with the new spilt screen mode, users can watch two sources at once, or take advantage of SmartTV technologies – watch TV and surf the Internet at the same time!

*Estimated Street Price*
Home Cinema 3010 – $1,599 (wired)
Home Cinema 3010e – $1,799 (wireless)

*Target Market*


Home entertainment AV enthusiasts/videophiles looking for a great 3D solution at an affordable price

*High Quality, Affordable 3D Home Cinema*


1080p resolution with bright 3D Drive Technology that brightens the image by doubling the image refresh rate from 240Hz to 480Hz
Bright 480Hz drive technology for improving light output to achieve extremely high brightness of up to 2,200 color and white light output** for viewing with ambient light conditions
Superb contrast ratio of up to 40,000:1 for outstanding black levels
Split screen feature for watching two pictures at once, or watching TV and using the Internet at the same time
Great home cinema sound with two built-in 10W speakers
Epson 3LCD technology for amazing color and detail
Wireless option available for ultimate installation flexibility without wires, using the wirelessHD standard (included with Home Cinema 3010e)
Two pairs of 3D glasses included with Home Cinema 3010 only; 3rd party glasses compatible

*Flexible Home Entertainment Features* 


Five colors modes in 2D and two color modes in 3D to easily adapt to different viewing environments
HDMI (two), component video, composite video, VGA, RCA audio, and USB connections for flexibility
230W E-TORL lamp delivers high brightness and up to 6,000 hours of lamp life****
Dimensions – 14.4” x 16.5” x 5.4” (W x D x H)
Weight – 13.2 lbs.

*Epson Warranty and Support*


Two-year parts and labor limited warranty, 90-day lamp warranty, Epson Home Service Program and Epson PrivateLine® dedicated toll-free support

###​
_*When compared to current 1080p 3D products priced under $2,000
**Light output varies depending on modes (color and white light output). White light output measured using ISO 21118 standard.
***Split screen not available in 3D mode.
****Lamp life will vary depending upon mode selected, environmental conditions and usage. Lamp brightness decreases over time._

*3D Glasses that are compatible with the 3010*


Epson Active 3D Glasses
Panasonic 3rd Generation Active Glasses (TY-EW3D3SU/TY-EW3D3MU/TY-EW3D3LU)
PS3 3D Glasses
Blick


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## r2lorme

I've bought this projector (TW6000 in France). I'm really enjoy with it. It's my first projector and I have a 4m 2.35 screen...


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## augratin

I was looking at the specs of this projector and I noticed something that raised an eyebrow. In the spec sheet it seems to state pretty clearly that it will only accept an input signal from a DVD player that can play DVD region code 1 discs:










If true, this is pretty alarming. Am I reading that right? I was unaware that the DVD region code information persisted in the HDMI video data stream. 

But I've just read through the entire user manual and nothing there talks about the projector's ability to play only certain DVD region-coded signals. If the projector can only accept an HDMI signal from a region coded 1 DVD player, that is pretty important information and you'd think they would talk about it in the user manual.

_edit - for some reason my inline image isn't showing up when I post, even though I can see it on preview. Here's the link to the image (a small snapshot of the spec sheet where it mentions the region code thing):_ http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1473/5747827/15966180/403053406.jpg


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## lcaillo

I have never heard of such a limitation nor am I aware of any way for it to be communicated from the player. Where did you read this in the specs?


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## augratin

In the attachment that is included with the OP, the spec sheet for the 3010e, it's listed right there under "OTHER" where it lists the types of input signals the device can handle. Here's what it says in that section:



> *Other*
> 
> *Display Performance*
> 1920 x 1080 native 1080p; HD, 2D, 3D
> 
> *Color Modes*
> 2D: Dynamic, Living room, Natural, Cinema, Auto
> 3D: 3D Dynamic, 3D Cinema
> 
> *Input Signal*
> DVD region code 1
> Composite: NTSC / NTSC4.43 / PAL / M-PAL /
> N-PAL / PAL60 / SECAM
> Component: 480i / 576i / 480p / 576p / 720p /
> 1080i / 1080p
> HDMI: TMDS
> HD-DVD and Blu-ray® (external source only)


I also included a link to a screen shot of this in my post above.


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## lcaillo

I suspect it is just a mistake.


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## augratin

If it's an error, it's a very unnerving one.

I just noticed that the 3010 and 3010e have no lens shift. Wow. As far as I can tell, that means the bottom of the projected image will be even with the center line of the lens. I mount this on my ceiling, I suppose will need to lower the unit so that the lens is even with the top of the screen (about 15 cm in my case). I haven't started looking at ceiling mounts yet; perhaps some of them provide this much of a drop natively, without having to buy an extension pole.

Still, that places the unit that much closer to the traffic path (right over the door) and therefore more prone to being hit or struck by accident.


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## mechman

I may be able to answer some of your questions soon enough. And yes, there is no lens shift so placement must be considered before purchasing. In my case, it would fit nicely in my setup. :T


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## mechman

My initial thoughts after about 10 hours of use.

This is a very bright projector! I may be in need of a darker BW™ screen sooner than I thought.  The 3D works well but I won't be using that as my receiver (Onkyo TXNR607) doesn't support the HDMI 1.4a spec. 3D viewing was very bright.

I did adjust Brightness and Contrast last night using the WoW disc. I believe I ended up with Brightness at 1 and Contrast at -7. 

I should get a meter on it later this week and get some grayscale/gamut performance measures then.


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## cr136124

mechman said:


> My initial thoughts after about 10 hours of use.
> 
> This is a very bright projector! I may be in need of a darker BW™ screen sooner than I thought.  The 3D works well but I won't be using that as my receiver (Onkyo TXNR607) doesn't support the HDMI 1.4a spec. 3D viewing was very bright.
> 
> I did adjust Brightness and Contrast last night using the WoW disc. I believe I ended up with Brightness at 1 and Contrast at -7.
> 
> I should get a meter on it later this week and get some grayscale/gamut performance measures then.


Did you try the 2.35:1 video format? I am gathering information not only for a projector, but for a fixed screen as well. 

Your input will be highly appreciated.


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## mechman

cr136124 said:


> Did you try the 2.35:1 video format? I am gathering information not only for a projector, but for a fixed screen as well.
> 
> Your input will be highly appreciated.


My screen is a 16:9 screen. Are you wondering what 2.35:1 content would look like?


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## cr136124

Correct!


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## mechman

I'll try to get in a movie later tonight or later this week.


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## cr136124

mechman said:


> I'll try to get in a movie later tonight or later this week.


Sorry to put you in the really difficult position to have to watch a movie at your amazing HT.....all because of me...:rofl:

Looking forward to hear back from you and thanks in advance for the input.


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## D Unit

Hi mechman,

I recall reading that you liked the benq w6000 a lot but how would you compare the two since they are relatively in a similar price range?


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## mechman

cr136124 said:


> Sorry to put you in the really difficult position to have to watch a movie at your amazing HT.....all because of me...:rofl:
> 
> Looking forward to hear back from you and thanks in advance for the input.


It is a very difficult position since my three kids seem to be busier now that they are out of school than when they were in school.  I didn't get around to it last night. But I will by the end of the week. :T



D Unit said:


> Hi mechman,
> 
> I recall reading that you liked the benq w6000 a lot but how would you compare the two since they are relatively in a similar price range?


I liked my W5000 a lot. Right up until it died in what I would consider, a premature death. I don't think I would recommend a BenQ again because of this and because I've had a message in with the Service Center since last Friday and I still have not heard back from them. 

The 3010 is a lot brighter, I'd guess somewhere around 50% brighter. Blacks were better on the DLP though. Color-wise, it's a wash. If I were thinking DLP again I would be thinking Mitsubishi. Take a look at the HC4000.


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## cr136124

mechman said:


> It is a very difficult position since my three kids seem to be busier now that they are out of school than when they were in school.  I didn't get around to it last night. But I will by the end of the week. :T


No worries, please take your time.


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## bear creek

Yesterday I found a 3010 at Frys for $1299. But I don't like their return policy (14 days and 15% restock fee) so I called the local BestBuy. They price matched Fry's so I picked one up. btw the Fry's sale price ends today (Thursday, June 21) if anyone else is interested in a 3010.

It's much brighter than an 8350. It seemed sharper too (but since I'm not side by side comparing that might be a delusion). The blacks are nothing to write home about. They're OK as long as I'm watching 16:9 material, but the black bars at the top and bottom of a cinema scope movie aren't -- they're just dull gray. Ugh. It's also louder than I'd like (Epson claims 24db in ECO mode) but is quieter than the 8350 I had (or at least there's just a steady low pitched sound of air moving -- no hrrmmm, hrrmmm, hrrmmm so it's more bearable than the 8350).

Looks like I'll need a ceiling mount with a 2' extension for this projector. Coffee table mounting is out. Ugh, seems like all the ceiling mounts with decent extensions are $150 or more. Maybe I should try making my own...

Fry's was showing IMAX Under the Sea in 3D as a demo but their glasses had dead batteries (way to go Fry's!) so I haven't tried 3D yet. I'm not expecting much.

Sigh. I really wanted a Panny ae7000u or Epson 5010 but those would have been more than a kilo-buck more dinero. 

I fished in for the BestBuy 4 year extended warantee. It was $270 but includes a free lamp replacement. Guess how much lamps are at bhphoto? Yup, $270 making the extended policy sort of a no brainer.

Charlie


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## cr136124

I have a Fry's like 5 minutes from work, so I'll stop by this afternoon before heading home.

Thanks for the tip.


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## mechman

The black bars on 2.35:1 content aren't as black as I'd like them. I have had the iris set to off though. I may experiment with it some as it is supposed to be relatively quiet. 

I have about 34 hours on it now and I think it's time to get out my meter and get some readings from it as well.


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## bear creek

When I painted my walls a dark brown and the ceiling black my 3010's black bars got darker (greatly reduced reflected light on the screen) but they're definitely not black. I'm also using a grey screen instead of a white one (because the 3010 is so bright).

I think an Epson 5010/6010 would be a lot closer to black as would a JVC X30 but then you need to ask yourself if blacker bars are worth and extra thousand or two dollars...

The 8350 and 3010 are not black level champs.

Charlie


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## mechman

If I set the Auto Iris to 'Normal' it helps quite a bit with the dark bars on the top and bottom for 2.35 content. I have set it to high for a short while as well and noticed no difference. I need to do some testing with this with some different content. The Auto Iris was not noticeable at all while watching content either. I could, however, hear it when skipping commercials and the content on the screen changed. I could not hear it at all otherwise.


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## mechman

*Pre-Calibration Readings of the Various Color Modes*

Pre-Calibration readings using my i1Pro spectroradiometer.

*Cinema *










*Natural*










*Living Room*










*Dynamic*










Cinema and Natural Color Modes look best OOTB. For these readings I did reset Contrast and Brightness back to their default settings.


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## EGuru

augratin said:


> In the attachment that is included with the OP, the spec sheet for the 3010e, it's listed right there under "OTHER" where it lists the types of input signals the device can handle. Here's what it says in that section:
> 
> 
> 
> I also included a link to a screen shot of this in my post above.


Interesting phrasings in this spec. 
Actually, what is the meaning or implication of the "external source" beside HD-DVD and Blu-Ray.

Seems somewhat redundant in a projector spec.


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## mechman

EGuru said:


> Interesting phrasings in this spec.
> Actually, what is the meaning or implication of the "external source" beside HD-DVD and Blu-Ray.
> 
> Seems somewhat redundant in a projector spec.


I'd have to agree. Where's our technical writers when we need them?!?!


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## Keks22

Hello Mechman

I have an Epson TW6000W (3010e) and try to calibrate them. I found this contribution and your results for Pre-Calibration readings.

My measurements were made with a Spyder3/HCFR (in cinema mode and Natural) and were identical with yours. Could you have successfully completed your calibration? I have tried everything to move the measuring point for green but I came to no conclusions. Green stays outside the gamut of Rec 709. In the moment green is more green/yellow than green.

Do you have any idea how I can move the green to reach the color space of Rec 709?

Regards
Keks22


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## mechman

Welcome to HTS. :wave:

I have tried to get green closer in Cinema mode with no luck. I have to admit that I didn't try all that hard though as I have less than 100 hours on the bulb. I was going to mess with it again tonight. I'll let you know how it turns out.


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## Keks22

Greetings

Ok thanks! This would be nice. 

Regards


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## mechman

mechman said:


> I was going to mess with it again tonight.


I didn't get to it. :yikes: Hopefully I will much later tonight. If not it will have to happen later this week.

Don't look for anything until tomorrow night sometime.


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## mechman

Keks22,

I've worked on both Cinema and Natural color modes and green cannot be moved where it needs to be. I think this may be one of those things where you have to step back and say that 'it is what it is'. It would be nice if manufacturers could get the cheaper models to perform to spec. But I think that is just a pipe dream.

The controls for adjusting gamut seem to be limited for green and red. Red gets close but I couldn't get green near where it should be. Adjusting the hue (H) setting would move it within the triangle. But then adjusting saturation (moving it into the triangle under-saturated it) just pushed it back out where it was.

Here's what my chart looked like, post calibration in Natural mode:










I don't have a screen grab of Cinema mode as I was using a beta version of CalMAN 5 and I cannot post pics of it. 

On another note, have you aligned the LCD panels at all? It doesn't help. Mine were off slightly but it didn't change anything calibration wise. Plus, with where I sit, I doubt I could see any of the slight panel misalignments.

I may be calling Epson this week as well since my iris is fairly noisy lately. I've heard that they had a batch of noisy irises sent out and that they will replace them. Mine is pretty noisy.


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## Keks22

Hi mechman

Thank you for your feedback.



> On another note, have you aligned the LCD panels at all?


I have my LCD panels not aligned. Is it a service menu setting?

I find something interesting in the AVS-Forum.



> Thanks for your feedback...I thought no one will respond ! I tried all modes including NATURAL and the green is off in all cases by almost the same amount.
> 
> Anyway, today I spent all my time trying to find out what controls will move that dran GREEN primary back to its ideal value....I tried every possible control you can find on 3010 and that green didn't budge to the left...it would only move down when i lower the saturation but it would not move left or right....
> 
> Then i saw that there is a 10% red component in GREEN that didnt change even when I reduced RED controls...this makes me wonder if Epson has put in a permanent red bias even in 2D mode to compensate for green tint of the Epson glasses....
> 
> To test my theory, I placed the 3D glasses (which are obviously OFF in 2D mode) infront of the PJ lens......lo-and-behold the red component vanished and I am able to get all the colors lined up correctly now as you can see below...
> 
> also notice that the RED and GREEN SATURATION points are off and may be "75% Calibration" is needed only for these two (BLUE is perfect)


I think we need a special lens to correct the green. I do not understand why the Epson 5010 does not have the problem. In the preview you can always see a perfect gamut without this error. :scratch:

Regards


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## mechman

*Epson 3010 LCD Panel Alignment procedure*

*Enabling Panel Alignment*

1. Turn on the PJ

2. Press and hold the Menu-Button on the pj for 8 sec.

3. Press the ESC-Button on the pj twice

A window will appear with menu items. With the
"Arrow-right" and "Arrow-left"-Button you can see several other Information-Windows.

4. Press the Menu-Button on the pj again for 8 sec.
5. Press the ESC-Button on the pj again twice.

Now a new Window will appear. On the left side you see 6 lines named
"DIP-SW1" to "DIP-SW 6". Move with the "Arrow-down-Button" to "DIP-SW 6" and press "Enter".

On the right side there are 8 lines named "Bit 0" to "Bit 7" and then "0" and "1" with a white (=deactivated) or green (=activated) Rectangle before the 0 or 1.

Move now with the "Arrow-down"-Button to the line named "Bit 5" and then activate with the "Arrow-right"-Button.

Don't change other bits or DIP-Switches!

Now press Enter and then leave the menu by pressing ESC twice.

Now switch off the PJ and then on again.

Now you can find a new submenu named "LCD Alignment" in the "Extended"-Submenu. Here you can adjust the pixel alignment, you can activate or deactivate the adjustments or reset them.

The "LCD Alignment"-submenu will appear now permanently in the "Extended"-Submenu until you deactivate "Bit 5" in DIP-SW 6.

Only Red and Blue are adjustable. Green stays the same. If you shut off LCD Adjustment in the menu, then all of your changes will be lost and you will have to do this over again.


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## mechman

Keks22 said:


> I think we need a special lens to correct the green. I do not understand why the Epson 5010 does not have the problem. In the preview you can always see a perfect gamut without this error. :scratch:
> 
> Regards


I won't be getting any special lens. It is what it is. :huh: If I were to buy something I would buy a Lumagen or a DVDO processor. When you spend as little as we have on a pj, you cannot expect it to perform as a more expensive model. :huh:


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## mechman

Sony PS3 glasses are compatible with the 3010 and exhibit less crosstalk than the Epson glasses.


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## ced81

someone will notice it a problem on the gray scale, about 10% of a blue black on the TW6000(EUR)? A problem that disappears by activating the iris! Should be able to adjust iris manual to settle this problem. Maybe the service menu there is a setting in the manual iris?


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## mechman

ced81 said:


> someone will notice it a problem on the gray scale, about 10% of a blue black on the TW6000(EUR)? A problem that disappears by activating the iris! Should be able to adjust iris manual to settle this problem. Maybe the service menu there is a setting in the manual iris?


I intend to take a look at calibrating mine next week. I'll look into this then if you can wait until then. :T


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## nickm

mechman said:


> *Epson 3010 LCD Panel Alignment procedure*
> 
> *Enabling Panel Alignment*
> 
> 1. Turn on the PJ
> 
> 2. Press and hold the Menu-Button on the pj for 8 sec.
> 
> 3. Press the ESC-Button on the pj twice
> 
> A window will appear with menu items. With the
> "Arrow-right" and "Arrow-left"-Button you can see several other Information-Windows.
> 
> 4. Press the Menu-Button on the pj again for 8 sec.
> 5. Press the ESC-Button on the pj again twice.
> 
> Now a new Window will appear. On the left side you see 6 lines named
> "DIP-SW1" to "DIP-SW 6". Move with the "Arrow-down-Button" to "DIP-SW 6" and press "Enter".
> 
> On the right side there are 8 lines named "Bit 0" to "Bit 7" and then "0" and "1" with a white (=deactivated) or green (=activated) Rectangle before the 0 or 1.
> 
> Move now with the "Arrow-down"-Button to the line named "Bit 5" and then activate with the "Arrow-right"-Button.
> 
> Don't change other bits or DIP-Switches!
> 
> Now press Enter and then leave the menu by pressing ESC twice.
> 
> Now switch off the PJ and then on again.
> 
> Now you can find a new submenu named "LCD Alignment" in the "Extended"-Submenu. Here you can adjust the pixel alignment, you can activate or deactivate the adjustments or reset them.
> 
> The "LCD Alignment"-submenu will appear now permanently in the "Extended"-Submenu until you deactivate "Bit 5" in DIP-SW 6.
> 
> Only Red and Blue are adjustable. Green stays the same. If you shut off LCD Adjustment in the menu, then all of your changes will be lost and you will have to do this over again.


Is this for the actual picture with the back screen not aligned? Reason I'm asking is my picture is squared up but the back screen is at an angle, I would like to square it up with my actual screen.


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## nickm

I have the 3020 though.


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## mechman

nickm said:


> Is this for the actual picture with the back screen not aligned? Reason I'm asking is my picture is squared up but the back screen is at an angle, I would like to square it up with my actual screen.


No it's for LCD alignment. I think what you are looking for is called Keystone.


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## nickm

Mine has auto correct for the keystone. Ill try to get a picture up.


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## nickm

In the corners you can see the angle of the display. But when the movies comes on it is perfectly square.


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## mechman

I wouldn't worry about what it looks like with no signal. :T


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