# mounting acoustic cotton



## PoorSignal (Jul 23, 2009)

I have some 2" thick acoutic cotton I would like to mount on the wall. 
What do you recommend that I use (nail, adhesive?) I do not want to do too much damage to the wall. I was thinking something like a finishing nail but havn't found any longer than 2"..

Thanks!


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## SAC (Dec 3, 2009)

Frame it.
From there there are multiple options by which to hang it.


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## PoorSignal (Jul 23, 2009)

SAC said:


> Frame it.
> From there there are multiple options by which to hang it.


I am not too bad at woodworking but after I frame it what is used to make sure it doesn't rattle against the wall like a regular picture frame does?


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

The weight should be enough to hold it steady. Or you could use the keyhole brackets that slide over the head of a screw to hold it firmly to the wall.

Cheers,
Bill.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

http://www.simplexnails.com/InsulationCapDataSheet.html


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## SAC (Dec 3, 2009)

There are many variable to consider especially as you_ specifically cited minimizing surface damage as a concern.
_
Whether the material will be covered or left uncovered (depending upon the nature of the product - and not to contribute to the all_ too _common undue hysteria, be aware that many organics such as cotton fiber are more noxious than either glass or basaltic fiber which dissolves after inhalation - but no, if using best practices, I am NOT suggesting that it is unsafe!). It is mentioned only as many move to the organics erroneously thinking they are avoiding health issues. Thus one might might want to focus more on unit costs and using a material with less VOCs (volatile organic compound off-gassing) and following best practices to allow ANY material to be exposed to sunlight and the dry air in order to allow it to off-gas its residual VOCs before hanging any such material in a confined space.

A little common sense and following best practices is always prudent for all materials.

OK, now that _that_ topic is hopefully put to rest...

If it is to be covered, some form of framing, be it an external frame (that also contributes to energy loss through diffraction), or resin hardened sides/corners or applied plastic L channels, in order to contribute to a defined corner and a neater appearance id often desirable in order to avoid the 'lumpy pillow' syndrome. 

The orientation of the material is also important, as over time the material will tend to sag and distend - especially if it is used as a cloud. Plastic orchard netting is easily obtained cheaply and works well when attached to a frame to support and prevent such distension.

Various flanged screw and nail fasteners are available, but they require the use of a greater number of units to distribute the mass and to support the material than do framed units.

But as you specifically mentioned minimizing damage to the surface, a framed approach does exactly that; as a panels can be hung potentially from a single point, whereas flanged screws or nails will impose a much greater degree of surface damage. But both are valid methods of suspension depending upon the larger concerns of aesthetics and functionality.

Also, if you anticipate handling or moving the units, this will also be a factor in your mounting choice as well, and frames are a much more resilient method if this is a factor. 

Any porous absorption benefits from a gap between boundary and material equal to the panel thickness. Thus some form of offset is needed to achieve this, be it an L bracket or some form of stand off such as rigid post door stops. As such, if following best practices, vibration is seldom a problem. If it would occur (and I have never had that problem), it could be easily resolved by applying small resilient equipment feet to the back of the frame such as are commonly available for kitchen appliances or from electronics stores.


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## PoorSignal (Jul 23, 2009)

I don't understand what you are saying that it is noxious?

The cotton are like a stack of jeans, and they can be left uncovered, no one is going to repeatedly disturb the material.


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## SAC (Dec 3, 2009)

The point was that all material best practices should be followed.

There is persistent myth that Fiberglass and Rockwool are carcinogenic - they are not, they are irritants that when inhaled dissolve rather quickly.

But many think that natural fibers are safer - which is NOT true. The inhalation of dusts from wool, cotton, hemp, and flax all persist indefinitely in the lungs and are linked to byssinosis and cancer. 

The assumptions of many with regards to the assumed relative safety of inhaling the dust of organic fibers compared to the perception that Fiberglass and Rockwool are dangerous. is incorrect.

The fact is that if handled according to best practices, all can be used safely.

Also here and here and here


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

While I agree that none of the materials are really good for you to inhale, many times it's the chemicals used in the manufacturing and in the bonding agents that people tend to react to. In general (not always) the organic products tend to use less (or not at all) of the types of chemicals that people react to. Formaldehyde comes to mind. They MUST do this in order to achieve the LEED (green) certification that they're after.

That said, there are also fiberglass based materials that also use fewer or none of those types of chemicals. Once example is the Ecosse that we use.

Bryan


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