# Greyscale Woes



## audibleBLiNK (May 22, 2012)

Hi all. 

I'm attempting to calibrate a Sharp Aquos LC-60LE632U with an i1Display 2 and HCFR.

After setting brightness, contrast per the stickied guides, i delve into the temperature controls.
The default LOW (or warm) setting has a redness to it and the RGB Levels graph shows I'm right but it's the closest to D65.

After using IRE20/30 and 70/80, I'm unable to match RGB Levels @ 100% (0 on CalMan)
I can actually get fairly close to 6500 on the graph by just evening out R and B. However this leaves me with an average of about R-116%, G-89%, B-116%. I can get them all closer together (105, 96, 107, by lowering R,B ALL the way and raising G all the way in both HI and LO RGB temp controls) but then there's this hideous green tint.

Here the stupid(er) part. If I use the close-to-6500 temperature setting, tv actually looks better than it did, despite the software stating that my greens are well below reds and blues.

Can I continue with the hideous green tint and correct it later with CMS? Or did I do something wrong/out of order?


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## mechman (Feb 8, 2007)

How old is the i1Display2?


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## audibleBLiNK (May 22, 2012)

Well, I work at a print/design shop and I found it stored neatly in a drawer.
The only guy left here that knew what it was informed me it's pre-xrite acquisition.

gretagmacbeth i1display2

After a quick google search, looks like it's at LEAST 6 years. 
Just found something that looks like what currently sells as an i1Pro too. But also gretagmacbeth.

And quite possibly a stupid question: Does the i1Display2 have moving/loose parts? The rattling is "hefty" enough to be deliberate. This is my first crack at this so I have no idea. I'm honestly surprised I got this far.


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## Joel Barsotti (Nov 26, 2011)

audibleBLiNK said:


> Just found something that looks like what currently sells as an i1Pro too. But also gretagmacbeth.
> 
> And quite possibly a stupid question: Does the i1Display2 have moving/loose parts? The rattling is "hefty" enough to be deliberate.


The i1 Display2 uses plastic filters for measuring the light, those get old over time and discolor with age (oxidation and humidity). So that is likely why you're getting a greenish tint.

That i1 Pro (i1 beamer?) on the other hand is a great piece of kit. That should also be compatible with HCFR and should give you much more accurate results. 


The i1 Display2 is better for taking dark readings than an i1 Pro, but if it's off by too much you'd need to create a correction matrix for it. I know you can use an offset matrix for the display 2 in HCFR, but I don't know how complicated it is. You'd use the i1 Pro as a reference source and effectively teach the i1 Display 2 what the correct colors are. That way you can use the better dynamic range of the i1 Display2 with the accuracy of the i1 Pro.


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## audibleBLiNK (May 22, 2012)

Alright! Thanks for filling me in. 

Having issues at the moment getting the i1 Beamer working. I suspect it may have something to do with using the older, original ColorHCFR on a 64-bit machine. 
Newer HCFR branch seems to have a bug recognizing the i1.


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## audibleBLiNK (May 22, 2012)

I managed to get all deltaE's under 20 with the Aquos set using the i1Pro. It's as close as I could get without using service menus (not that I'd know how to access them) 

Is that about normal for a cheap set? At $1k for a 60", I was surprised it had a CMS at all.


There doesn't seem to be much easy-to-find info on using the i1Pro with HCFR so here's what happened:

The original ColorHCFR hasn't been updated in quite a bit of time as of this post.
It has been forked and seems to be getting more attention from it's developers. Seek it out on SF.net
Only the original release (3.0.0) seems to work with minimal issues with the i1Pro (aka Beamer, eye-one)
Newer versions result in the error message "Incorrect Driver..."
Forum postings indicate that the developer has fixed this issue in the latest release, who's source code is available to compile for yourself. He has not yet release a binary.

Most of this info came from scattered AVS posts and here - http://sourceforge.net/p/hcfr/wiki/Home/


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## mechman (Feb 8, 2007)

You should be shooting for getting the deltaE's below 3. :scratch: I think that I could get them all below 10 on my old cheapo Hannspree LCD.


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## audibleBLiNK (May 22, 2012)

I ran through the while process two more times and managed to get them all under 10 except for blue. It stopped moving on the x-axis altogether. That deltaE is 14. 

I took the following into account when running through everything for the second and third time. Did I understand it right?

Y>x>y and R>G>B


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## Joel Barsotti (Nov 26, 2011)

audibleBLiNK said:


> I took the following into account when running through everything for the second and third time. Did I understand it right?
> 
> Y>x>y and R>G>B



No that doesn't sound right at all.

For white you want to get x,y correct for sure, Yn second. 

R,G,B are all equally important, they all effect x,y and Yn.


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