# problem with door placement



## santosh (Sep 29, 2013)

hi 
Wanted to run by everybody a problem with door placement for theater room. There is a 2X6 bolted to the concrete floor which cannot be removed or cut. Unfortunately this is the area where the door placement is ideal.
the door can swing either way. The contractor says that we would have to put an exterior door there because of the 2x6 but this will create 6 inch wide by 3 inch high threshold at the entry. is this going to be a problem with people tripping over this. is there any way this can be avoided.
thanks


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## goyop (May 4, 2010)

Post a photo and we can help you.


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## santosh (Sep 29, 2013)

goyop said:


> Post a photo and we can help you.


Thanks
The 2x6 cannot be cut but the studs can be removed and a door placed there.


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## Greenster (Mar 2, 2013)

It looks to me that you have a great set up. If you decouple the sheetrock from the studs, your rooms sound will be very controlled. Having an outside door would be a great idea in that it would seal the sound much tighter than an interior door would. You will need to address the ventilation to the room if you seal it tight. Having the threshold at the bottom is a plus in this area, but a downer for having to step over it. I am not an engineer, so I really do not know the answer to why the 2X6 can not be cut on the floor. But if you do not like it, then I would do a bit more exploring as to why it can not be removed.


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## Horrorfan33 (Jun 11, 2013)

Hmmm.. I don't understand why that can't be pulled up...Are you saying the studs can be removed and a door put in their place, because it's a load bearing wall??..If not, you just unscrew the nuts, pull up the 2x6 and then cut/grind the bolts off..


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## tonyvdb (Sep 5, 2007)

Agreed, it seems odd that you can't cut the 2x6 right where the support beams are. As long as you don't move or cut the actual structural 2x6s there should be no issue. 
If the contractor is worried about the structural beams shifting once the extra peace is removed have him strap or lag bolt all 8 of the beams together and attach a large L bracket to the right side, it's not going to move.


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## santosh (Sep 29, 2013)

Horrorfan33 said:


> Hmmm.. I don't understand why that can't be pulled up...Are you saying the studs can be removed and a door put in their place, because it's a load bearing wall??..If not, you just unscrew the nuts, pull up the 2x6 and then cut/grind the bolts off..


thanks for the input. there was a load bearing post about three feet into the theater room space. it was moved 3 feet and a new footing poured and the wall built. the structural engineer explained that it was the way the load is being distributed for which the 2x6 cannot be moved or cut but a door can be placed on top of the 2x6. hence the door will have a threshold. I cannot move the door further left as i will run into the riser. my question is will there be a problem with people tripping on it. is there a way i can taper it in the room.


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## santosh (Sep 29, 2013)

Greenster said:


> It looks to me that you have a great set up. If you decouple the sheetrock from the studs, your rooms sound will be very controlled. Having an outside door would be a great idea in that it would seal the sound much tighter than an interior door would. You will need to address the ventilation to the room if you seal it tight. Having the threshold at the bottom is a plus in this area, but a downer for having to step over it. I am not an engineer, so I really do not know the answer to why the 2X6 can not be cut on the floor. But if you do not like it, then I would do a bit more exploring as to why it can not be removed.


The structural engineer says the 2x6 cannot be removed. he gave me an explanation about weight distribution and load distribution. i guess i may have to live with the threshold which may not be bad for the reasons you mentioned. thanks about the tip about ventilation. will have the HVAC guy address that


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## moparz10 (Sep 21, 2010)

Would it be possible to install a pocket door 3 ft over? Granted you woul enter on to the riser,not sure if that would be an option for you?


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## Horrorfan33 (Jun 11, 2013)

If it must stay, maybe you can just make it a little "ramp" with a small slope, so nobody trips over it, but rather walks up it.


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## dougc (Dec 19, 2009)

I would move the door over a little because the bump on the floor would drive me bonkers


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

I was going to suggest the ramp also.


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## bamabum (Dec 7, 2012)

Maybe you can make entry difference intentional feeling. I am not sure your clearance of either side but you could make a landing on both sides similar to the below picture but styled to the room.










It would decrease tripping because it would be obvious in your peripheral.

And if done right it would make the entry grander.


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## goyop (May 4, 2010)

Can you point out exactly which section you would like to remove. I believe that there is a simple fix to this in spite of what the "engineer" said. I am also an engineer and builder.

If you are talking about the piece on the floor that extends to the left this piece can be removed if you put another anchor into the floor. FYI, this is one of the worst engineered solutions I have seen in quite a while. I have NEVER seen a structural piece that extended beyond the wall space. Also if he is using the 2x6 bottom plate for lateral support that is pretty lame. If you need lateral support you use an anchor into that new concrete pad. How can he be sure that another home owner won't entirely remove those adjacent walls? Not impressed.

If you want to cut out the 2x6 piece, find a friendly contractor who might give you free advice. Usually structural contractors have a good relationship with an engineer. They will maybe give you an unofficial opinion on what they would do.

Question - is the person who designed this licensed by your state? Do they work for a structural engineering firm? Did the plans get reviewed by the county? I am asking because it is a really bad design. It probably meets the load requirements but anybody with a calculator and text book could figure out what is needed to hold up your house.

My two cents.


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