# The RanchHT



## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

I've been working on my theater for the past six months, and thought I might start a thread here to chronicle the build to date. I have had a thread for some time over at the other forum but I wouldn't mind seeing how things are over here, also.

*** I decided to a a "current progress" picture to my first post ***










So, here we go. I'm not sure the wife knows what I've gotten her into, but she will soon.

I'd absolutely welcome any comments and unsolicited advice for this project as I've never come close to anything of the scope. I've done plenty of reading here for a number of years but I think until you get your hands dirty it's hard to really visualize the process.

Notes:

1. I plan on doing as much soundproofing as possible: GG, DD, RSIC on the ceiling.

2. Component so far:

- Paradigm Studio 60, Studio CC, Studio ADPs, Studio 40's (rears).
- Onkyo 805
- EasyButton IXL 18", Behringer EP2500, Behringer EQ
- PS3, XBOX360, HTPC
- No Projector selected yet
- Screen will be an AT one in the false wall. Originally I had planned a laminate DIY screen, but I think I am switching this.










I'll add some pictures soon, but I'm hoping that the experts here can help me with some questions before I go to HD tomorrow to take advntage of a sale:

1. Is it easy to frame a double drywall style wall under a beam and amongst the beam support posts?

2. If I am doing DD/GG and weaving the insulation in between the studs, how do I decide what width of insulation I use? My understanding is that Roxul Safe n Sound is the best way to go here?

3. I will framing over the storage area, so do I need a DD/GG wall all along that length? (The North Wall).

4. Should I just get a standard 6'8" door? I have a full eight feet under the joists and 7'3" under the beam in which I might integrate the on the south side of the theater area.

5. Any reason to not use Dri Core? I'm willing to give up the 7/8" for a comfortable floor.

I'm sure I'll have a ton more questions!


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

Screen Wall:









From entrance area looking NW to the storage area.










The HVAC and water lines I will have to figure a way to frame around:










Possible area for an external equipment rack. I like hte location because heat will not build up in an enclosed space.










Some ceiling hot air supplies I will need to switch to flexduct:


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

Well, framing is done. It was relatively easy since the room is a giant box with almost nothing in it.

The 8" supply manifold that was in front of the stairs was moved without complication in order to get the main partition wall framed. That's my father-in-law up in the joist space. He built custom homes for 30 years, so this is all child's play for him. He's convinced I'm crazy with all of the soundproofing and wacky things I am doing...but I think he gets it now.











We had to put blocking on top of the top plate in order to get the DC-04 clips to make contact with the joist. The vertical orientation of the DC-04 did not work becacuse the clip's screw holes were above the joist flange. On the opposite wall we put the blocking in the joist webbing to provide screw holes for the DC-04, but found it to be more work.








Here's a view from below:









My buddy and my father-in-law installing DC-04 clips. I was taking a break from doing the insulation.










And here's the one end of the finished framing. We have decided on a final plan for the window, but it will likely get a plug of some kind to ensure it is sealed. I don't need access to it, except for emergency and/or re-sale.











Here's the view from outside of the theater looking in. You can see the framing for the storage area in the opposite corner. When I finish the rest of the basement, I will be framing in a wall between the teleposts. It will create an air gap between the theater and the rest of the basement that is ~10" between walls. I suspect that will aid in increased noise reduction.


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

I've decided to modify my HVAC to make things simpler. 

Instead of running duct everywhere, I've decided to move the take-off locations of one supply and the return.

This will get me two 5" supplies at the front of the theater...and an 8" return at the back.


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

I thought I'd throw an update up here, as we've made some good progress. I had collected materials over the last couple of weeks and my father in law is in tow for an extended trip to help me contrsuct the theater. He's a real pro...building custom homes for 30 years, so he knows what he is doing.

Which also allows him to know that I am crazy.

anyhoo...


Obligatory Green Glue shot:










And normal materials. This is 5/8 drywall. And this is actually what's left after we did two walls. I had a drywall pizza party and some friends chipped in.












The plumbing problem was solved by using slightly longer (Pliteq Genie) isolation clips that allowed for the top of the drywall to be UNDER the gas and water lines. Not ideal, as I would have liked to have had the clips into the joists to maintain ceiling height...but the difference would have been about 1.5" in the end, and for me, it wasn't worth the cost/effort, etc to gain 1.5" of height.





















We built some silencers out of standard 8" square ducting, and ML board. I built two for the two supplies into the room.










Ultimately they will likely be redundant as I will be attaching flex duct to them for the final entry into the theater. But I like building projects. And if I ever get a sniper rifle with an 8" barrel, I will know how to silence them. Here is one _in situ_.





















I ran piles of conduit, but rarely used it for signal. Instead I just zip tied my cables to the conduit, and I will cut the drywall to access in the future, if needed.











Then we got on to drywalling. 










Here we are nearly finished the ceiling drywall. I was doing the insulating as FIL and my buddy Pierre were putting up the panels. 










And more. You can see the flex duct coming out of holes cut to size. There will be a matching duct on the other side of the room. This is the screen wall.










Shot of the end of the drywall, without insulation. You can see the drywall is hanging from the isolated hat track. We had to end there because I needed to run the two 12 gauge wires through this joist to the equipment room for my dual 20 amp circuits.


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

My obligatory GG pics from our marathon drywalling sessions last weekend. We put up all the drywall in three days.



















The carnage:











The leftovers:


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

I used 8" end-caps, cut out a 5" hole from them and used a 5" take-off to create the transitions.

The square sections use standard 8" square ducting with 1" of duct board on each side, to reduce the the inside diamter to 5" per side.

Here's a close-up and crop of the ends, note the one on the left, you can see how I lined the ends of the duct board with foil tape to prevent floaties.










Here's one unassembled:


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

Since 48 is not divisible by 19.25 you have to add more than the recommended number of clips, or find a way to get a clip between the joists.

For my room, I managed to get clips on a lot of the joists (I was a little loose with the 48" spec..), but for about 3 clips per track, I needed to use blocking in the joist.

Since my joists are manufactured I-beams, they have a lower flange/stringer that has a lip on top of it. That provides a great way to span with a 2x4. I then laminated another 2x4 to that with 4 framing nails toed in and some construction adhesive. This ensure that the clip was going into a piece of wood that was even with the lower edge of the joists where the other clips were. I then used a long screw on the clips that went through both 2x4's providing even more strength.

You can see it in this pic. The top 2x4 is resting across the tops of the flanges, and the bottom 2x4 is laminated to it. The shot of my conduit is just a bonus


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

Not as much progress as I would like, lately. In fact, after our drywall session, I dropped the tools and left everything sitting right there. I was beat. So spent today picking up the carnage that six cases of Green Glue getting dispensed in 24 hours causes.

Then I moved on to building a min-wall that will be the window plug.

I decided to go with 2x6's, since the wall is framed 2x4 and the addition of 2 x 5/8" drywall makes the depth of a 2x6 almost perfect. It doest hang over the back edge of the framing but does not contact and decouple the wall. I was originally going to build the plug, drywall it, and then move it into place. I've since decided to put it into place and then drywall it. I'll put some handles on after so if I need to move it or there is an emergency, I can yank it out. Otherwise, I want to leave it there semi-permanent. 

To do it again, I would have left the window framed as is, put additional2x4's into the window opening and drywalled over the whole thing. Oh well, I'm not about to change it now!









Anybody have any ideas about how to get it in there (other than a friction fit...which is the current choice).

And this arrived today:










Fun!

It's an Emotiva MPS-1. It's a 7 channel amp, with separate "monoblock" blades for each channel.

Now I just need a theater to let loose with the 200wpc ClassH.


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

Well, it's time for some updates. I've only had time to sneak into the basement to do small projects in the past couple of months. It turns out work actually wants me to...you know..._work_.

I constructed some "baffle boxes" out of 1" mdf to minimize the sound transmission straight out of the hole int he ceiling through which my flex duct comes. It both extends the distance that the flex duct travels without creating a long box. I hope it also barricades some sound from exiting straight out of the room up into the room upstairs.










My round commercial-grade diffusers from EH Price. Directional ones were $200 and special order. I grabbed these out of the bin for $20 each. They are solid and big, and quiet when installed. Unfortunately, they also throw air in 360 degrees. The EH Price guy was great and told me how the HVAC contractors cheat to prevent air from being thrown against a wall. It probably increases noise and reduces flow...but I'm good with the compromise.










Spent all last week working on soffits, and finishing the HVAC ducting/ baffle boxes.










There are two baffle boxes on either side of the room with 5" supplies through each.

Pics of the boxes integrated into the soffits:









I also built a simpler one for the cold air return. I will be installing a dead vent on the outside of the room to further reduce sound transmission.


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

I had to notch out the soffit at the back of the room, as I wanted to retain the window as an easy retrofit in the future. I put a substantial window plug into it...which is framed exactly like the rest of the basement.











I built a mini-soffit above where the false wall will be for my screen. It has three can lights to provide screen washing. Overall, I have six 50w four inch can lights running down each side and back of the theater. With the addition of the three screen lights, that totals 15 50w can lights. I think that should be enough.










Dri-core pile halfway down. It's sitting in what will be the home office eventually.










Finishing the install in the theater:



















Stairs are always fun to drywall! At least I didn't do the taping on any of it:




















Equipment closet/ storage room. You can see the HDMI coming from in the ceiling behind the beam. I've also got a hole drilled for the speaker wire and various conduit running in behind the beam. The yellow is the 12awg Romex. I will have 2x 20amp circuits, ad 15 amp for general use into the storage room, and jsut below the main 20 amp outlets is the back-end of the projectors power extender for for the UPS to plug into.










I just finished painting the ceiling, so I'll get some pics up of that. I went with Behr "Dark Cavern" which is like a very dark walnut. It's de-saturated, so almost looks like a charcoal, with some brown in it. It's exactly what I was looking for in the ceiling color.


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

I spent some time looking at carpets today, and I think I settled on a Kraus Nylon model called Geologic.

It looks like this:










but instead of green, I will be going with a brown tone, called Tobacco.










My stage top cut and getting the mini-joists properly angled.










This pallet of sand taunted me for 2 days. Most of it is down now (1870 lbs of the 2640lbs total). Pics of that to follow. Not fun.


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

I am nearly finished "sanding" the stage. What a PITA. > 2000lbs of sand.











I didn't carry it into the basement, I built a ramp out of one of the stage-top sections. I carried the sand to the window, then jumped in the window well and fired the bags down the ramp.










My acoustically transparent screen arrived from SeymourAV today!

It's big, at 98" wide, but it will allow me to do a slight tilt to the fabric to avoid moire, on my screen (127" , 16:9).


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

All the sand in....what a mess. I tried to keep the sand contained, but it was an hour with the shop vac over the entire room this evening.











After cleanup!



















My ready-to-install stage tops (there are four sheets of 4x8 for two layers of 3/4"):


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

The riser was completed last night:

Just before getting sealed up! I always like to see insulation disappear. 











It's been a couple of months since I messed around with GG. I forget how sticky and goppy it is, and it gets everywhere. It's great stuff, but no fun to work with.










Second layer on and an old chair to test out the height. I rigged up a 42" head-height visual barrier to simulate a front row.










Different angle, with my now-completed stage in the background.










Lot's of progress lately. The baby is coming and I'm getting freaked out. It makes me work in the basement.

Carpet went in last week. I've spent the last week doing electrical (the two 20 amp circuits are in the equipment room, as is the power extender for the projector.

Hanging doors has been a real PITA, but that's done now too. Tomorrow will be the crown and rope light...which will be fantastic...moving along!

(My "helper" made it into some of these pics." In fact he's a retired customer home builder and I've been far more of his helper, than anything. Although he think 90% of the ideas that come from this forum are bananas.)


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

I spent most of the day doing baseboards in the rest of the basement.

On thing I did get almost finished, is the backer box for the the power to the projector and the hdmi conduit.










And the prop to put pressure on the adhesive.










I am finishing up with the wiring of the equipment rack location. Speaker wire is almost in, projector wiring is complete. I have to run a CAT5e and coax to the equipment room through conduit.

The two 20amp circuits are wired up...now I just need to find a 4 gang cover plate...which are rare it seems.


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

I'm absolutely out of breath!

Surely one of the nicer jobs around.


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

Thanks Ted!

I didn't know you hand bpape were mods over here. I think I maybe should have joined over here sooner.

bpape is doing my acoustic design, and has been awesome. 

Looking at all the old pictures from way-back-when makes me shudder!


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Yeah- it's always fun to do the look back and remember when you wondered if you'd ever get to this point. Hang in there. You're doing a great job. You'll be in there before you know it.

Bryan


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

Thanks Bryan!

While you're here.... 

I just finished one side of my corner bass traps behind the false wall. I realized after I finished the one corner that I cut my bass traps to 24"x24x34, rather than the more common 17"x17x24.

Should I leave the bigger ones or cut them all in half for the smaller size?


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

Here's some pics if the corner traps. 



















I want to finalize the size before I start on the other corner, obviously!


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## ScruffyHT (Sep 23, 2008)

And after all that he is coming over to help me finish mine


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

If you leave them bigger, you'll obviously need to buy more material. They'll reach deeper into the bass this way. If you can swing the budget, I'd leave them bigger.

Just also make sure there is no interference with speaker locations.

Bryan


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

I think you've got my Studio 60's around 43" in from the wall (on center), so that should leave plenty of rooms for the fronts.

I think I'll just go pick up a couple more bundles of 2" OFI-48.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Should be fine.

Bryan


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

Any thoughts on what to do with the wall/ceiling corner? I've got a fair amount of space between the front soffit/valence and the wall. Put covered safe-n-sound up there? I was thinking about running a horizontal bass trap along there in addition to the side ones. (I will be removing the drywall facing you see behind there that is unpainted and covering the corner bass trap.)


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

You can bulk it up a bit by squaring it off up there if you want. It's not a big deal either way as long as you remove that drywall.

Bryan


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

It looks like a great theatre in the making MacBuster..:T
Looking forward to seeing the end result..
Have you decided on a projector yet?


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## Anthony (Oct 5, 2006)

All I can say is Wow! Great work so far. Keep us posted.


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

Prof. said:


> It looks like a great theatre in the making MacBuster..:T
> Looking forward to seeing the end result..
> Have you decided on a projector yet?


My conversation with the wife went something like this:

"I'm nearly at the point where I have to buy a projector..."

"Ok, how much will it cost?"

"Well, I was thinking of a JVC RS-20. It's very nice, but a bit more than I wanted to spend..."

"How much is it?"

"...less than some others?..."

"_how much is it?_"

"Did I mention how much I love you?"

:: stern look::

"um....$6500"

"you're dreaming."

Conversation over.

In other words, the projector choice is "currently in committee."


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

ScruffyHT said:


> And after all that he is coming over to help me finish mine


Let me know what I can do....

Although I might be returning to school next month. The baby is due in less than a week.

And work is...nuts.


Hope that broken wing of yours is feeling better.


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

MacBuster said:


> My conversation with the wife went something like this:
> 
> "I'm nearly at the point where I have to buy a projector..."
> 
> ...


Hahaha!!..I know how it goes..:rofl2:
I had a similar problem with a $3000 projector!!..:hissyfit:


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## ScruffyHT (Sep 23, 2008)

MacBuster said:


> "um....$6500"
> 
> "you're dreaming."
> 
> Conversation over.


Dont worry bro ... that would be a non starter here too if I went for it all at once ... my plan though is to convince her that the LCD in the master bedroom should go in the newly constructed gym ... the HD70 in the games room would actually work quite well in the master bedroom ( low profile and the wall wont have a tv hanging off it ) then we move the HD80 into the games room ... which means it's upgrade time for the theater - a RS20 with a Isco iiiL would be awesome - thats the master plan  

I need to get that theater built first to make it all happen LOL


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

ScruffyHT said:


> Dont worry bro ... that would be a non starter here too if I went for it all at once ... my plan though is to convince her that the LCD in the master bedroom should go in the newly constructed gym ... the HD70 in the games room would actually work quite well in the master bedroom ( low profile and the wall wont have a tv hanging off it ) then we move the HD80 into the games room ... which means it's upgrade time for the theater - a RS20 with a Isco iiiL would be awesome - thats the master plan
> 
> I need to get that theater built first to make it all happen LOL



I actually didn't look closely enough at your plans before...I didn't realize that you were going to have TWO projector rooms.

I was wondering why you kept calling it your "games rooms." I kept thinking most people were calling them "theaters" and you were just trying to be different.

Have we seen pics of your actual THEATER room?


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## ScruffyHT (Sep 23, 2008)

LOL ... yea ... the games room is for the kids to watch tv/movies/xbox360/ps3 etc etc 

Theater is still just at framing/roughin stage but I will post some pics up tomorrow ... some cat5e runs and a last minute decision to add speaker roughins for future 10.2 surround ... I have not decided 100% on lighting and that may make a difference in some of the wiring that I have already done ... may go with UPB lighting control and LED lights


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

I'm running two extra channels to my stage in case I want to go with extra speakers up front in the future. Maybe I'll run three extra for an extra LFE channel, but I doubt that.


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## ScruffyHT (Sep 23, 2008)

I ran 2 X 12G speaker wire + 2 X RCA for subs ... the way I figured it is the RCA would work if it is a powered sub and the speaker wire if I add a sub ( or 2 ) that have a seperate amp in the rack


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## Bruce Fisher (Nov 24, 2007)

Looks awesome - nice work! Your Emotiva Amp caught my eye - I have their XPA-5... 350w x 5 into 4 ohms (my speakers are 4 ohm Emotiva 6.3s). It is a remarkable amp. You won't be disappointed with your purchase! 

Also, I noticed you purchased the Seymour screens but going DIY. I opted for their new fixed frame (didn't want another DIY project!) - it ships today! 

I'll be watching your thread to see how it finishes up for you - looks great so far


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

When Emotiva had the XPS-1 on sale last month, I was very close to pulling the trigger and getting an XPA-5 for the surrounds.

The MPS-1 is a sensational piece of equipment, and I could see myself never buying another AMP.


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

bpape said:


> You can bulk it up a bit by squaring it off up there if you want. It's not a big deal either way as long as you remove that drywall.
> 
> Bryan


Bryan,

I was more thinking about what to do along the wall/ceiling corner, all along it.

This is what I had in mind...a horizontal bass trap along the full width of the front wall. I would probably use the smaller version of the corner trap, with 17x17x24 pieces. Is this going to provide enough of a benefit over simply running the 2" OC703 up to the ceiling?


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

If it were me, I'd probably just do something like a 6"x6" rectangle so it doesn't take up as much space and blends with the shape of the soffiting. Your call though.

Bryan


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## ScruffyHT (Sep 23, 2008)

You wont see it behind the AT screen


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

Well, progress has been slow lately, due to an addition to the theater:

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.


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

Some delays are acceptable. Such a sweet shot. Dad should be proud!


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

That's certainly understandable. She's a cutie.

Take care of both her and Mom.

Bryan


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

Thanks guys.

Literally, all of the soundproofing (GG+DD, etc etc etc) was done to accommodate those little ears.

(or to avoid the screams...thank god soundproofing works both ways!


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

Ok...after a delay watching my daughter go from the above to this:


I am back in the theater.

I spent a couple of hours working on furring strips and I'm not that far away from installing the sound treatments around the room.

Since I will only have OC703 up to 5.5 ft on the side walls, what do people use up to the ceiling? Do you just leave an airgap behind the fabric?


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

Well there ya go!


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## dradius (Sep 10, 2008)

Looks great so far. I'll definitely be watching your progress. Kid is adorable too


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Correct. You can just leave air behind the cloth up high. Some people also like to alternate slats to make a pseudo-diffuser. It's a lot of work and can actually cause problems if not done right though.

Bryan


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

bpape said:


> Correct. You can just leave air behind the cloth up high. Some people also like to alternate slats to make a pseudo-diffuser. It's a lot of work and can actually cause problems if not done right though.
> 
> Bryan


Would this diffuser just look like, say, furring strips oriented vertically with even spacing, or some such?


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Sorry for the late reply. Been in Denver for RMAF all weekend. Pulled in at midnight last night.

Yes - vertically oriented strips following a specific sequence. Try using the QRDude page that's listed in a thread in this section. There's a calculator there. Just use 1" for the depth and probably a 5 root sequence.

Bryan


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

More developments.

Putting up the furring strips and OC703 takes WAY longer than I thought it would. 











The back wall is still going. I'm doing 3" deep OC703 over the whole back wall, so those furring strips are a lot deeper than they look.











More shots of the front wall:




















Bryan: if you get a chance to read this before I email you.... what should I do with the door(s). In particular the one that probably sits in a FRP on the right of the theater.

1" thick OC703 panels?


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Wow!!..That's a well trapped front wall!! ..and that's some sub.!! What sub is that.?


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Do what you can on the door. Do the same thing that's on the wall in that area. Most likely 1" but as high as the opposite side.

Bryan


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

Prof. said:


> Wow!!..That's a well trapped front wall!! ..and that's some sub.!! What sub is that.?


It's a DIY sub.

The driver is an IXL-18 from Mach5.

http://www.mach5audio.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=181


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

bpape said:


> Do what you can on the door. Do the same thing that's on the wall in that area. Most likely 1" but as high as the opposite side.
> 
> Bryan


Yup. I'm not sure if you have my stuff handy or not, but I want to confirm how far back I should do floor to ceiling 1".

If you can, shoot me an email or a PM.....thanks.


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

MacBuster said:


> It's a DIY sub.
> 
> The driver is an IXL-18 from Mach5.
> 
> http://www.mach5audio.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=181


Do you have a build thread for that sub???? ....What size is the box???


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

salvasol said:


> Do you have a build thread for that sub???? ....What size is the box???


The whole stage is a bit bigger than it looks in the pictures.

The Sub is 4 feet tall, with a footprint that is 2 feet by 2 feet. Lot's of internal bracing.

I'm not sure if I'm supposed to post links over to the other forum, but if you google "IXL 18 meets the Easy Button" you will find the build thread.

It's a pretty beginner sub, actually, and you may be able to do better with the driver if you have more advanced woodworking skills. On the other hand, it destroys almost any retail sub that you can buy.


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

MacBuster said:


> The Sub is 4 feet tall, with a footprint that is 2 feet by 2 feet. Lot's of internal bracing.


Thank you. I have a SonoSub already, but I'm planning for the future :daydream:.... I'm dreaming to have a room with 2 SonoSubs 15" (front) and maybe 2 boxes like yours with 18" (back) :drool:


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

salvasol said:


> Thank you. I have a SonoSub already, but I'm planning for the future :daydream:.... I'm dreaming to have a room with 2 SonoSubs 15" (front) and maybe 2 boxes like yours with 18" (back) :drool:


That might be a huge pain to tune.

But I'm no expert.


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

More progress:

I finished much of the treatments this weekend but ran out of OC703. I need two more bundles to complete the bare sections.

I started putting up the fabric on the walls. Cutting takes a LONG time. Longer than actually stapling (that Porter Cable stapler is awesome).

The fabric is black Dazien Celtic. The pictures make the whole room look a lot brighter than it actually is. The Dazien definitely soaks up the light, without looking totally flat. I'm really happy with it.





























A pic with the flash on indicates more the batcave feel to the room:


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## MatrixDweller (Jul 24, 2007)

I think I want to bust down all of my walls and start over again. Wow great job MacBuster! I can't wait to see the finished product.


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

MatrixDweller said:


> I think I want to bust down all of my walls and start over again. Wow great job MacBuster! I can't wait to see the finished product.


That makes two of us.

(Actually three....I think my wife wants me back, too).


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Nice. Hang in there, almost done.

Bryan


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

To do list:

1. pull off doors and paint hem
2. Install treatments on doors.
3. Shop for trim: chair rail, crown, quarter round, baseboards
4. build screen wall
5. build screen and surrounding GOM frames, with velcro
6. Build and install columns
7. etc. etc. etc.

every step closer seems to create 10 more things to do!


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

Bryan, 

would you put treatments on my subwoofer? That's a lot of reflective MDF up there.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Well, never done that before but looking at the size of the sub, it might not be a bad idea - at least on the front and sides.

Bryan


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

I started building columns this week. Pretty annoying project, actually.

I decided to go with a relatively simple design. All fabric wrapped frames.

I have two problems:

1. The box frame I made really obscures the drivers for the speakers. I think I may create a design that mimics the angles of the speaker, and make the column deeper. Then the front vertical supports can be in front of the speaker, rather than behind. I don't like the idea of a deeper column, but it will have to do.

2. An all fabric columns would be susceptible to someone putting their hand through the fabric. Not ideal. Perhaps I could include more structural members into the framing to protect it.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Outstanding. Great way to impement it. Fill the columns with insulation of some sort and you're good to go.

Bryan


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

Bryan,

Do you agree that I have an issue with one of the 2x2s blocking the tweeter?


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

And if the columns are just fabric wrapped, with nothing inside, do I need insulation in them?


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Well, I'd like to see them a bit more open if possible (tweeters). Honestly, they're pretty directional so not a huge deal - just general principle. 

You can just leave the columns empty since there's nothing to resonate if you want. Just a good place to get some additional thicker absorption in the room.

Bryan


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

MacBuster said:


> 2. An all fabric columns would be susceptible to someone putting their hand through the fabric. Not ideal. Perhaps I could include more structural members into the framing to protect it.


What about using those perforated panels from floor to 5'??? ....then fill the column with fiberglass (as Bryan mentioned) :dontknow:


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Another way of doing it so your speakers are completely free of any framing, is to use your existing framing from the floor up to the bottom of the speaker..There you cut the framing off and fit a top to that part of the frame..
Then make a separate frame, coming down from the soffit to the top of the speaker, with a bottom timber panel fitted to that..
Basically your speaker is suspended between the top and bottom frames in free air..
Then the whole framework is covered with your acoustic cloth..
To all intents a purposes, it just looks like a solid column..

I hope I've explained that clearly enough for you..


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

I've had guys do that. Do what you did but just have a top and bottom and the middle where the speakers are is nothing. Just hang a grille covering the whole thing but no obstructions.

Bryan


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

I think I could make that work.

I do have some electrical running into the bottom of the column (an unfortunate necessity for me). I suppose there would be no harm in running the romex across the "open" part of the column.


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

Columns! (There are eight total columns, so this is only half. The upside is they are quite easy to whip out.)










My solution to the "obscured speaker" problem isn't exactly elegant. But it is simple:




















I'm in the process of stuffing soffits full of insulation. Can't wait to finally seal them up and get the columns in place.


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Well yes!..that's another way of doing it..neat job.:T


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## Owen Bartley (Oct 18, 2006)

Mac, your theatre is looking great! I really love that carpet for some reason, I keep going back to look at pictures with it installed. I'll be following your progress to see how it all turns out.

PS, adorable little girl, congrats.


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

Owen Bartley said:


> Mac, your theatre is looking great! I really love that carpet for some reason, I keep going back to look at pictures with it installed. I'll be following your progress to see how it all turns out.
> 
> PS, adorable little girl, congrats.


Owen, thanks for the kind comments. It's been a long process!

More importantly, thanks for compliments about my daughter. This whole theater thing is for her. (At least, that's what I've told my wife....).


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## Anthony (Oct 5, 2006)

Let us know if she buys that


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

Anthony said:


> Let us know if she buys that


My story is this:

If I can move all of my HT junk into the theater, then we can permanently turn the bonus roomo into a kids play room!

I think it was a stroke of genius. 

My wife is not entirely convinced that I am not the ultimate beneficiary. I had to also give her exclusive use of our walk-in closet and a couple of second round draft picks, and she made the trade.


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

New toy for Daddy!
A local retailer gave me a killer deal on it (about $400 off Canadian MSRP). I couldn't resist.


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Which one's the new toy!!? :rofl2:


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Nice score on both points!

Bryan


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

bpape said:


> Nice score on both points!
> 
> Bryan


I think I remember you telling me you were a Sony guy.

I didn't want to do another Panny or Epson.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Yup. Love my Black Pearl. It was down to that and the JVC RS-1. Just love the smooth pic the LCOS PJ's give.

Bryan


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## MacBuster (Jul 26, 2009)

I took a break from doing columns and started testing my PJ for distance.

I think my throw will be just under 14 feet.

This is not a Sony approved PJ mount:



















This is not a Stewart screen:










I was too lazy to pause MAster and Commander


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## the colors (Mar 28, 2008)

The idea's from this build seem never ending!:sn:. Way to go and hats off on a spectacular job, and also your helper.


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