# Kit Finishes



## hjones4841 (Jan 21, 2009)

Danny: I always like to build things, but my problem is that when I complete something, the finish looks like I built it Do you have some links to wood finishing tips that would help me and others who are "finish" challenged?


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## stevenkelby (Mar 4, 2008)

hjones4841 said:


> Danny: I always like to build things, but my problem is that when I complete something, the finish looks like I built it Do you have some links to wood finishing tips that would help me and others who are "finish" challenged?


I've played with about 20 different options for finishing my Super Vs.

The only parts that really need to be "finished" are the side panels and the bow tie. For all the other parts I'm just using this truck bed liner.

I have no other experience finishing wood and was worried about getting it right so have practicing on a bunch of scrap pieces. 4" square for all the options, then 14" square for the final 4 options.

In the end I've decided on using a Minwax stain plus Minwax wipe on poly, gloss. Enough coats gives a high gloss, smooth and hard finish, plus it's very easy to apply. The main thing for me was that it be difficult to get it wrong and easy to fix if I do 

The Minwax stains and wipe on poly are almost fool proof, I've had fantastic results on all the sample pieces I've done. Still have a couple more big ones to do so we can decide on final color of the stain. There are some good guides on line to using it but light sanding with about 300 grit between lots of thin coats is really all you need to know. With enough coats you can end up by polishing it to a mirror smooth finish if you want. Or satin.

My panels are baltic birch ply though, so it already has a nice grain which makes a stain/clear finish logical.

If I was using MDF, I loved the veneer I played with but it's a little tricky for a 1st timer.

Another choice was a painted finish applied by a pro car shop. Any color you can paint a car, you can get your speakers painted the same, some great options.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

I can second the Miniwax stains and poly - I am using them to do all the wood work in my HT and really like the results.


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## Danny Richie (Jul 12, 2009)

I'll alert some of my best cabinet building customers to this thread as soon as I can.


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## dmark1 (Feb 25, 2010)

I learned a lot by reading the Woodweb Professional Finishing Forum:


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## RAW (Feb 25, 2007)

Big tip for ya.
If finishing is not your thing.
Look around town most finishing shops will do a finish for you.Well worth the look if you do not have the means to do the finishing yourself.


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## Danny Richie (Jul 12, 2009)

And there are quite a few guys out there that build cabinets for our customers all the time. They can finish them out anyway that you want.


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## ron (Sep 19, 2012)

I have built quite a few GR Research speakers systems over the past few years. The cabinets for most of them I have built myself which were veneered. The process that I use to finish them that has worked well for me is as follows:

1. After the cabinet has been veneered, lightly sand with 400 grit sandpaper and then wipe the surface with a tack cloth to remove the dust.

2. Apply Minwax PreStain to the veneered surface. I normally use a foam brush to apply the prestain and 
wipe off the excess with a clean, lint free cloth.

3. After the Prestain has dried, apply the stain with a foam brush or clean lint free cloth. Be sure to wipe 
off any excess stain with a clean, lint free cloth.

4. Allow the stain to dry for approximately 24 hours and then appl;y a coat of Minwax Wipe On Polyurethane using a clean, lint free cloth. 

5. After the polyurethane has dried, lightly sand with 400 or 600 grit sandpaper and then wipe the surface throughly with a tack cloth. 

6. Apply another coat of polyurethane as described in steps 4. and 5. above. Repeat this process as many times as required to achieve the desired finish. ( I normally appl;y six to seven coats of polyurethane).


There are other methods that can be used to finish veneered surfaces, but this one has worked best for me. Hope this information is helpful to others.


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## hjones4841 (Jan 21, 2009)

Thanks, Ron. I have never tried the rub on polyurethane - always the brush on. I will have to give it a try.


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## ron (Sep 19, 2012)

The wipe on poly works very well but it can be time consuming to use since you have to apply a number of coats.. The more coats you apply the deeper the finish looks. Yon can also use regular polyurethane and apply it with a high quality paint brush or foam brush. I prefer the foam brush.

Noticed that you live in Alabama. I use to live in northeastern Alabama some years ago. Beautiful state.


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