# Sticky  CRT based RPTV Convergence Repairs



## lcaillo

Lots of DIY'ers are attempting these repairs these days. This thread will provide some tips based on my experience doing hundreds of these repairs over many years. This is general information on the basics of these types of repairs. Even so, it would be useful for many repair techs as well as DIYers to review. Many techs who do not have a great deal of experience with these repairs would likely save a great deal of time using this as a reference. 

*Of course, many DIYers get themselves into a considerable jam by attempting repairs that are beyond their skill level. I strongly suggest that if you do not have repair skills, or some experience working with electronics, consider having the service done by a professional. Many people can complete these repairs successfully, but others will make matters worse. Many techs will not be interested in sorting out a botched job, or may charge significantly more for having to figure out what you did to create more problems.*

I will periodically add posts that cover one area of interest regarding these repairs. Comments should be posted as a new thread. This one will be a sticky and closed to keep the info easy to access.

By far the most common repair required by all makes of CRT RPTV is the replacement of the convergence output ICs and possibly some related parts. Most manufacturers for many years have used ICs for output devices that are sourced from Sanyo to drive the convergence correction yokes. The chips are identified by the STK-xxx-xxx labels. 

If you are going to attempt such a repair, I strongly suggest that you get the information needed to access the convergence adjustments at the service level for your set. I also suggest that you use original Sanyo parts. Sanyo is the OEM for all STK series chips. There are cheap copies on the market as well as batches of bad parts that are suspected of being rejects that have been redistributed on the black market. Stick with vendors that have a reputation for supplying original Sanyo parts.

*Added note:

The information in the first 10 posts of this thread has been compiled from my experience with many years of these repairs and represents basic information that has proven to be useful to many users. Please read it carefully before posting questions. Understand that I have devoted a great deal of time to compiling the information here and to moderating the forums. I cannot do research for each person's repair and parts information, nor talk you through each step in troubleshooting your set. The assumption is that you have basic troubleshooting and problem solving skills and are attentive to detail. If you have more questions, please post them, but do not be offended if I draw the line at giving general information. If you need help at a higher level that includes doing parts research or step by step instructions for completing a repair, you are welcome to contact me by PM or email and we can work out some consulting arrangement by phone or email.

I sincerely appreciate the thanks that the many users have expressed for my help. I love helping people and most of you get that. If you feel offended that I set limits on the kind of help that is provided and that the time that I devote to this is finite, so be it. You get what you pay for. Sometimes, like the information that you get here for free, you get a lot more. The number of ingrates is very small and again, I am sincerely happy to help where I can.*

Another thread which may be of use that discusses reliability in these circuits and may correct some misconceptions that are common can be found here:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...ty-crt-rp-convergence-circuits.html#post71988

*Most of the text of the first ten posts comes from a procedure manual that I wrote for some of the techs that worked for me. I have added some text and simplified some of it to be more useful to the general public. If it still seems too technical and you do not understand it, this is a good indication that you are not a good candidate for a DIY repair. When in doubt, seek out a professional. Be safe rather than sorry.*


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## lcaillo

*How convergence circuits work*

Convergence circuits correct the size, shape, and position of the scanned image (raster) by applying voltages and waveforms to the secondary (sub) deflection yokes on the neck of each CRT. These are windings in which a change in current results in a magnetic field that affects the behavior of the electron beam that scans the image on the phosphor. These yokes have horizontal and vertical windings similar to deflection yokes, but carry much less current and much lower voltages. Still, controlling the beam with the precision needed to match the images in all three tubes requires a reasonable amount of power. The amplifiers that drive these yokes are similar to those used in less expensive audio applications such as lower end receivers and portable (boom box) devices. 

There are six channels that need to be amplified, horizontal and vertical for red, green, and blue. Most systems use integrated circuit designs with 2, 3, or 6 channels per chip. They are almost always STK series chips made by Sanyo. Some sets have used discrete transistors for these amps, but they are relatively rare. Most of the chips range in power rating from 20 watts to 70 watts. The run constantly when the set is on so they do tend to get hot. Temperatures in the range of 130 to 160 degrees F are not uncommon. Imagine an audio receiver running with the volume at a fairly loud level constantly. This is what these units do. Consequently, there are failures.

The correction starts with a series of waveforms applied to the amplifiers, along with a small dc offset. The waveforms are typically combinations of parabolas (for correction such as pincushion), sawtooths or ramp functions (for keystone and skew), and more complex patterns for point convergence. Vertical correction is applied at horizontal scan rates or factors and multiples of it, and horizontal correction is applied at vertical rates or factors and multiples of it. The chips must, therefore operate over frequencies that are typical of audio amps for conventional NTSC systems, and much higher rates for HD systems. The bandwidth of the ICs ranges from just adequate for NTSC as roughly 15kHz to over 100kHz, far beyond what is needed for HD applications. Most of the current chips have adequate bandwidth, some from a few years ago are marginal and should be upgraded to later versions. I will cover that in another post.

The dc offset is typically no more than a few hundred millivolts. Too much dc, or too much correction at the limits of the capability of the chips can cause them to run very hot. Heat is not a good thing for most semiconductors, so proper set-up is important. The dc offset is typically going to effect position changes (called static convergence) with little or no effect on the size and shape of the picture (called dynamic convergence).

The waveforms are generally generated in a circuit area called the convergence generator, which may be a separate module or combined with another set of circuits on a larger board. The correction signals are then applied to the input to the output ICs as a combination of the waveforms needed to correct the image. At that point the signals are in the hundreds of millivolts to perhaps a couple of volts. The output ICs amplify them and provide the power to drive the convergence yokes. They are usually powered by + and - supplies ranging from about 16 volts to 40 volts, depending on the design of the set and the chips chosen for that application.


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## lcaillo

*The chips*

This is a list of most of the commonly used STK devices and some that Sanyo made that are rarely, if ever, used. I will add links to the data sheets that I have, but some of them are not available. Some of the chips are versions made for a particular TV manufacturer, and Sanyo does not provide data on those, typically. It is generally best to use the same chip that is found in the set. However, there have been newer versions of some of these produced that are identical in performance and superior in certain applications. I will note my recommendations and the logic behind them, but I in no way, nor does HTS, take any responsibility for the accuracy of the information with regard to substitution of parts. Any substitution is your responsibility. I can only relate what I have found to work with parts that I know to be original Sanyo parts.


STK4273 replace with STK4274 if heat sink allows
STK4274 
STK4275
STK4278

STK391-110
STK391-120 
STK391-220

STK392-010 replace with STK392-040
STK392-020 replace with STK392-040
***The -040 has wider bandwidth and has higher current rating than the -010 and -020. I use in ALL cases to replace the older versions. 

STK392-040 
STK392-560 
STK392-570

STK392-110 Hitachi replaces these with STK394-160, for other sets it may not be a good sub. The STK392-150 is a good sub in any set, IME.
STK392-120 Hitachi replaces these with STK394-160, for other sets it may not be a good sub. 
STK392-150 Hitachi replaces these with STK394-160, for other sets it may not be a good sub.
STK392-180
STK392-210
STK392-220

STK393-110

STK394-160 (This is my choice to replace the STK392-110, -120, & -150 in most Hitachi sets and are available in the kits in the next post) 
STK394-210
STK394-250
STK392-260
STK394-510

Suffixes
-L means bent pins for horizontal mounting
-E means lead free
-HIC in Mitsubishi parts simply means that it is an IC on a heat sink and is irrelevant to buying parts.


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## lcaillo

*Buying the parts*

*Added note:

I keep getting lots of the same questions, so let me clarify a few points. First, if you do not buy the parts from one of the known reliable distributors, you may be getting counterfeits or seconds. Just because someone claims to be selling original Sanyo parts does not mean that they are good quality OEM parts. MANY techs and consumers have been burned. If you are DIYing, you are already saving lots of money. DO NOT take chances with cheap suppliers. You may get lucky and you may not. The problem is that you will not be sure and without the skills of an experienced tech (and even with them) you may not be able to figure out whether you have a problem with parts or botched the repair.

The STK394-160 has become a good replacement for the parts as listed in the post above. It was originally only available in the Hitachi kits. I still only buy them that way because I know that the parts I get through Hitachi have been reliable. Who knows whether the ones available through other channels are first quality parts, counterfeits, or seconds. I won't take the chance. The question of whether the Hitachi kits have the STK392-150 or the STK394-160 keeps coming up. They originally supplied the -150 in the kits. Some of the distributors keep telling people the kits have them because they may still have old stock with those parts. I have not seen a Hitachi kit with the -150 in many months. If you get them, they are still a far superior part to the original STK392-110, so don't sweat it.*

There are many distributors that sell replacement parts for these repairs. Unfortunately, as many techs and shops have learned the hard way, not all of them are selling premium quality parts. There appear to be some cheap copies that have given results that range from OK to virtually 100% failure. It is highly recommended to buy parts that are known to be original Sanyo chips. The vendors that I have listed below have been found to be very careful sell only original Sanyo chips. 

Most of these can be found in the Parts Distributors thread at

http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...ence-information/4396-parts-distributors.html

I personally ONLY use these vendors for STK ICs. There may be others with good parts but don't ask me about them. These are the only ones that I trust enough to recommend without qualification. If you use parts from other vendors and you have a problem you are only adding variables to a process that already has many pitfalls. You can read through the various repair threads and see dozens of people who have had problems completing these kinds of repairs. Many are due to using cheap parts, many are due to service mistakes or not being thorough. In my experience it is not worth the risk to add variables to a repair, even with my experience. For a novice to do so is simply asking for complications.

ACME
B&D
Electronica (in Denver, NOT Electronix, DO NOT BUY convergence ICs from Electronix)
or authorized distributors selling the parts as supplied from the TV manufacturer.


Hitachi has put together kits for some of their models which contain two chips (usually an upgrade of the originals) and more resistors than most repairs require. It is often cheaper to buy the parts this way. The chassis number is on the label with the model number and/or on a sticker inside the set. However, these kits have become very hard to find recently.

These are the part numbers that I know of for the Hitachi kits:

*Kit Part Number	
Chassis*
Models

*X480293* 
*DP14G* 
43UWX10B
53UWX10B
53UWX10B
61UWX10B
61UWX10BA
61UWX10BB

*X480295* 
*DP15* 
53UDX10B
53UDX10BA
61UDX10B

*X480296* 
*DP15E*
43FDX10B
43FDX11B

*X480297* 
*DP15H* 
53FDX20B

*X480300* 
*DP07* 
53SWX01W
61SWX01W

*X480301* 
*DP05* 
53FDX01B
53FDX01BA
*DP05F*
43FDX01
*DP06* 
53SDX01B
61SDX01B

*X480302* 
*DP17*
53SWX10B
53SWX12B
61SWX10B
61SWX12B

*X480306* 
*DP25H* 
53F300
*DP25K* 
43F300
*DP26* 
57XWX20B
65XWX20B


You have to get these from a Hitachi authorized distributor. I buy a lot of parts for other brands in these kits because they come with either the STK392-150 or the STK394-160E. I use the latter to replace other versions as noted in this thread. It is cheaper than buying the chips individually and I get the resistors. Also, you can be pretty sure that Hitachi is getting Sanyo original ICs for their parts and not some cheap copies from another manufacturer. *This information was originally only available to servicers via the Hitachi web site. I would not have posted it, however, if I had not found it elsewhere on the internet on sites that also post much mis-information regarding these repairs. It is my policy to repect the agreements with vendors like Hitachi regarding the distribution of their documents. Thus far, we have not received a response from requests to Hitachi regarding whether it is acceptable to post it, and since other sites have provided the information and it is supplied in each kit sold, we assume that the company is not concerned with its presence here.*


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## lcaillo

*Diagnosing the problem*

Not all problems with convergence are the output ICs. Most certainly are, but before changing parts, or even buying them, you want to be sure. There are some symptoms that are pretty good indicators, but some problems are not so obvious. I will try to describe some of the ways that, as a technician, I would determine whether or not the output ICs are defective.

Symptoms can vary. The most common and obvious would be when the convergence cannot be corrected in one color in one direction. This indicates that one channel of one of the chips is likely bad. It could also mean that you simply have a bad solder connection at the IC, the connection to the yokes, a resistor, or a connection coming from the convergence generator. The first thing to do in diagnosis is to observe the symptoms carefully. Try adjusting the red and blue horizontally and vertically if you have manual controls or in the service menu. Try running any auto convergence mode if you have it and watch each color. If one does not move in one direction you have a good indication that one channel is bad or where to look for a bad connection.

Intermittent problems with convergence may indicate simply bad connections at the ICs. Some problems that are not intermittent can be the same. Check the solder joints for ring cracks. Many times the factory does not deposit enough solder on the pins and repeated heating and cooling cycles can cause the solder to crack.

Some sets may not even power up. It is not uncommon for shorted convergence outputs to cause a shutdown of the set and/or to blow fuses. It is always a good idea to look for the obvious, such as blown fuses, burned resistors, bad solder connections, etc. A lot of the process of troubleshooting is observing things that simply don't fit with a normally operating system. Checking power supplies is always a good start. There are usually a number of different power supply lines at different voltages supplying various circuits. The convergence supplies are almost always a pair of + and - supplies. If one of them is not coming up or goes down faster than the other, you have an important clue. When one of the supplies is down, if the set does run, convergence will usually be bad on all three colors, and in both directions.

If you suspect that convergence outputs are bad and causing a shutdown condition, one way to be sure is to disconnect the supply lines to the chips. It is sometimes easier just to remove the chips altogether. Nearly all sets will run with no convergence outputs. You won't get any convergence correction and the pix will be curved in on all sides and offset, but you should be able to measure the + and - supplies at that point to be sure that they are present. While the chips are out, you can also measure the output resistors that sometimes open when a chip fails. I'll deal more with those in another post.

While the chips are out, it is a good idea to check the dc offset at the six inputs to the ICs from the convergence generator circuit. If it is more than a few hundred millivolts, you need to deal with that. It could be that the position control has been adjusted to its limit trying to correct convergence, but it could also mean a problem in the circuits that generate the correction voltages. Some auto convergence systems will try to correct for a bad chip and end up with severe conditions driving the inputs. This can be difficult to deal with, but usually is correctable by running the convergence process as soon as the circuit is repaired.

*Added note:
Many have posted with questions about fuses. Different sets have different types of fuses. Some use traditional glass fuses, some use pico fuses. Pico fuses are small resistor shaped devices that are soldered into the board. Many have labels on the board identifying them as fuses with the rating, some do not. They can be black, green, blue/green, yellow/orange or other colors, depending on the set. Refer to the service manual for each model for more info. As stated above, you should have positive and negative supply voltages at the output ICs and you can verify this with the chips removed with no damage to the set if everything else is OK. These supplies are usually in the 18-35 volt range, d.c.*

*Be Thorough!*
Don't just assume that you have a convergence problem because colors don't line up. Verify that you cannot adjust it. If all of the adjustments for R,G,& B, both horizontal and vertical have an effect, your problem is somewhere other than the output ICs. You may have to go into the service mode to check this on some sets, but it is better to make a good diagnosis than to assume something and chase your tail. I have gone behind many other techs and consumers who jumped to a conclusion and wasted a lot of time changing parts only to have me later diagnose the problem as something else, like a pincushion problem or bad video processor IC causing a problem that affected the convergence.

Some sets allow you to reset the convergence and not store to memory, so that you can recover the convergencde memory if you find that you need to. Keep this in mind. A complete convergence reset can cause hours of work rebuilding the geometry and convergence, particularly if multiple modes are used for various formats and resolutions.

It is always a good idea to verify that there is no excessive offset from the convergence generator and that data is not corrupt before assuming you only have an output problem.


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## lcaillo

*The Resistors*

*Added note:

If you have ANY DOUBT at all, CHANGE the resistors. Many techs and DIYers have blown ICs or confused themselves by missing an open resistor. Be sure that you check them after you remove the chips and after the convergence yoke connectors are disconnected. Some sets have resistors in parallel, so if you get a lower reading than you expect for a single resistor you need to take this into account. A bad resistor will read HIGHER resistance. If you have any doubt about the effect of the circuit on your reading, lift one leg and read the value out of the circuit.*


If one has a problem with convergence circuits and simply assumes that changing the ICs will solve the problem, probably better than half of the time one would be correct. However, some sets have a tendency to damage related resistors when a chip fails. Sometimes, the resistors themselves will be the only problem. This is rare, and when it is the case, it is often because of an intermittent connection at the IC or an intermittent failure in the IC.

There are usually very low value resistors in series or parallel with the output and load. These are present to keep the chip from dumping more current than necessary and to equalize the impedance of the load resulting in more efficient operation and better linearity. The values are often somewhat critical. There are often more than one resistor in parallel to increase the power handling while using smaller and less costly parts. There are also usually resistors in parallel with the yoke. These are typically much higher values and lower power handling. Again, these are present to tune the circuit to operate more efficiently and with greater linearity. The better the design and choices of load resistors, for a given yoke/IC combination, the more predictable the convergence and likely greater adjustability.

*WARNING: If you are not sure about the values of the reisistors or how to test them properly STOP. You can do more damage or damage new ICs if you don't get this right or miss an open resistor. Improper values can lead to alignment problems and overheating.*

Some useful links for figuring out what values you have:
http://www.lalena.com/audio/electronics/color/
http://www.ealnet.com/m-eal/resistor/resistor.htm

It is very important to check the resistors when servicing these circuits. It is easiest to check them with a DMM with the chips removed and the yokes disconnected. Verify that they are the values marked on them, but remember, the circuit may affect the readings. In particular, the low value resistor s that are in parallel will not read their marked value. Look at the circuit to see how they are connected. If they are in parallel, two resistors will read half of the rated value. It is when you get a reading that is a higher ohm value that you have to be concerned. This means something is open or partially open. Resistors almost never fail by going lower in resistance. The go higher or to near infinity.

Even if they all measure properly, they need to be inspected carefully. If they are discolored differently from others in the circuit or have cracks or chips, they should be replaced. An open resistor can damage a new chip or just frustrate the out of you trying to adjust the set. Use flameproof or metal resistors in the same values as the originals unless the manufacturer suggests a change. They can normally be sourced from the same distributors that carry the chips.


*When using the Hitachi kits, be sure to use the correct kit for your set and verify the values of the resistors in your set if you are not replacing them. Some sets require a change in the values to avoid a shutdown condition!*


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## lcaillo

*Heat*

Dissipating heat is important for the reliability of output ICs in all sets that use them. Regardless of the set and the specifics of the circuit design, improper heat sinking can shorten the life of the outputs. It is important to clean off the old heat sink compound if it is dried. When applying new heat sink compound it is important to use only enough to fill the spaces where there is not metal to metal contact, but no more. More is NOT better. 

I smear a thin layer on both surfaces, then slide the chips back and forth a bit until I feel metal scraping metal. This assures the best contact. To much heat sink compound actually inhibits the heat transfer to the heat sink. Heat sink compound is not a particularly good thermal conductor, but it is much better than air. You still want the metal to touch as much as possible. The Heat sink compound should just fill the spaces that don't touch.

Some sets are notorious for running very hot. Samsung sets that use the small board mounted on the CRT bulkhead are a good example. They may run hotter than most because the chips are higher in the set and subject to less cooling by convection. Some techs put fans on them. I have never done so and never had recalls of these repairs, so I do not think it is necessary. Extra cooling certainly can't hurt, but one should be very careful about installing any extra components in a set.

Another suggestion that may improve thermal transfer is milling the heat sink and back of the IC. I would be very careful with this procedure, with care not to remove significant metal from the IC. One way to do it is simply to place two layers of fine sandpaper back to back and slide it between the chip and the heat sink. This takes a bit off of the high points and can work well if a chip or the heat sink is not flat. I have rarely found it necessary, except on some smaller ICs and stamped heat sinks. These chips are usually mounted on larger heat sinks that are less likely to be warped.

Heat sink compound:

http://www.arcticsilver.com/#
http://www.gcelectronics.com/order/SubCatPDF/specialty chemicals 44 54 57-58.pdf 
http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...productId=2102858&support=support&tab=support
http://www.alliedelec.com/catalog/catalogpages/200607/1898.pdf?Catalog=&PageNum=1898


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## lcaillo

*Soldering and Desoldering*

If you have any soldering skill at all, most of these repairs are not difficult. The mistakes that I would expect most people to make are bridges between pins and damaging traces on the board. To minimize damage to the board, it is best to use an iron that is hot enough. A common misconception with regard to soldering is that to hot an iron will do more damage. This is only true in the extreme, as with butane powered irons or large soldering guns. Even these will not do damage unless they are applied too much. A hotter iron will get the job done faster, causing less heating of the component and the board. However, an iron that is too hot will cause oxidation which will make it harder to transfer heat. When this happens you can do damage by holding the iron on the joint too long. A good rule of thumb is if the tip stays shiny it is ready to use, if it gets dull or discolored the iron is too hot. A too hot iron will need frequent cleaning and tining.

For desoldering, a good choice is the radio shack desoldering iron with the red bulb. I works fine if you can get to the joints. Some chips will be mounted where they are hard to get to with such a large device. It is also fine to use de-soldering braid. Use a medium size and get a good quality braid. It should be shiny and not dull. Cut short pieces and hold them with a pair of pliers, and use a lot. Don't be stingy. Do not keep heating if it does not melt the solder rather quickly as you will likely damage the traces on the circuit board. When braid does not quickly pick up the solder, you either have too cool an iron or the braid is oxidized too much. Add some fresh solder to the joint or some liquid flux to the braid.

When soldering, I recommend using eutectic 63/37 lead solder. I use it on all boards, even those with lead free solder. It has a lower melting point and will lower the melting point of lead free solder when you add it to a joint. It is handy for desoldering on lead free boards, as they can be difficult to work with. You wont run into many lead free boards when working with convergence outputs but some have reduced lead contents and can be hard to desolder. Just add some fresh solder to a difficult joint and it will likely be easier to work with.

When reinstalling the chips, always secure the heat sink first, then solder the pins. This assures that there is no mechanical stress on the joint. Heat the pin and trace simultaneously and the solder should melt on the pin, not the iron. The rule of thumb for soldering is heat the work, not the solder. You should get a good flow and a smooth shiny joint. If not, the temperature is not right. Ideally, use a temperature controlled solder station. Otherwise, use a 40W-45W iron.


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## lcaillo

*Adjusting Convergence*

Once the repair is complete, the set will need some adjustment. There are so many different systems for adjusting convergence that it is not practical to describe them all here. This will be a very brief look at general issues. Specific information may be found in the vendor threads, or if you post a question in a new thread it is likely that we can give you some specific pointers. 

Most sets never come from the factory converged as well as they could be. After changing convergence outputs, additional variance is likely to be introduced, from the new ICs themselves, which vary some, as well as any movement of wire placement or heat sink effectiveness changes. Resistor values may have changed, or resistance in the circuit may have been affected by soldering. Regardless, if you wan the most out of your set, tweak the convergence.

Some sets use some form of auto-convergence, with trade names such as flash focus, self focus, magic focus, or whatever. These may get you in the ballpark, but a close examination of the result will reveal that convergence errors still likely exist. This is because all of these systems use as a reference the last stored settings from the factory or the last time the set was manually converged. The "auto-convergence" is really just a reset to those values, using data from between four and eight sensors around the edge of the screen. You have to do the convergence manually then store it if you are going to get the best performance.

Generally, you will have to enter the service mode to get to the most effective level of convergence control. The method for doing so varies, so it is important to get the documentation for your set, if possible. Training and service manuals will usually have the details of negotiating the service menus. It is very important to only change things that you know you should be changing. Record your original data and your changes. Be certain about what you are doing because is is possible to do permanent, expensive, and in some cases, irreparable damage by altering service menu values on certain parameters.

It is not a good idea on most sets to try to reduce overscan by very much. You may just have to do a lot of re-convergence and geometry or you may miss the sensors on any auto-convergence systems. Check with someone familiar with the changes you want to make BEFORE making them.

Any focusing should be done before convergence adjustments.

Some terms that you may run into and the general order of adjustment on sytems that have these controls:

*Static Convergence* refers to the position of the whole image, vertically and horizontally.
*Height* and *Width*, aka size are pretty obvious.
*Linearity* refers to the relative size of different parts of the image, usually one side or the other or top to bottom.
*Skew*, aka *Tilt* refers to the angle of the lines relative to the edges of the screen, usually skew is on the vertical lines and tilt is on the horizontal lines.
*Keystone*, aka *Trap* refers to the relative size of each side or top and bottom. Incorrect keystone results in a trapezoid rather than a rectangle.
*Pincushion* refers to a bulging outward or barrel shaped distortion or the reverse, an hourglass shaped distortion where the sides bow inward.

The above controls may not be used on later sets with point convergence. Many systems use them as preliminary adjustments before point convergence, while some only have the individual point controls.

Be sure to understand how to save your settings and remember to do so before you quit. Also, be sure that you understand how to initialize the data for any auto-convergence functions. Some sets will not behave properly if this is not done.


*What if the ICs and resistors do not fix the problem?*
First, look for the obvious. A connector may not be plugged in or may be loose, you may have bridged a solder joint of have a solder drip or splash somewhere it shouldn't be, or you may have missed an open resistor or fuse. Check for bad solder connections on related regulators and other circuits. Moving a board around can upset connections that you may not have noticed. Check the controls...what works and what does not. Do you have + and - supplies to the output ICs? Do you have correction signals coming from the convergence generator (this takes a scope to see) and do they change when adjusting? What is the DC offset at the inputs to the convergence amps? As a last resort, try a full convergence reset if your set has it, but understand that you may have to start from scratch and need a reference grid to get it corrected. If the problem is not a botched repair or misplaced connector (which most are), you could have a problem with a bad EEPROM, convergence yoke, or convergence generator. These problems will often require a professional to troubleshoot.

One thing to do if you are continuing to blow fuses or have shutdown problems is remove the ICs and replace the fuses. You can safely run nearly any set with no convergence amp ICs installed. If the set runs, you know it probably has to do with the converence amps or related circuits. You may have missed a resistor or had a bad connection, or blew a chip with a solder bridge or with residual voltage in the circuit. You may also have a problem somewhere else or a problem with the power supply. Sometimes with bad caps in the supplies you can get some unusual problems, so the filter caps on the convergence supplies should be checked.


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## lcaillo

*Repair Cost*

These repairs are so common that they deserve some breakout treatment and discussion of what one should expect from a servicer. There are lots of folks who can DIY these repairs, and lots who should not or would not attempt it themselves. For those who choose to have a technician perform the repair, it may be useful to get the perpective of a servicer. A lot of techs might not like some of the opinion here, but that's life.

Rates will vary greatly for most repairs. Shops in different areas have very different costs of doing business. I will give my general rates below, but keep in mind that they are likely quite low compared to other areas with higher costs of doing business. That said, a lot of shops really put the screws to customers on these repairs. High rates, sub-par replacement parts, not doing research, and lack of careful alignment have been seen in the work of many shops. I will describe what we do to give an idea of what a consumer should be looking for. I have little patience for shops that do not perform work with professionalism and who are not thorough.

Most convergence repairs can be done in the home if the tech is prepared. One should know the model number of the set, research the common repairs, have the likely output ICs, fuses, and resistors, and be prepared to complete most repairs in one trip. Some may turn out to be more complex and require a return trip or shop repair, but changing convergence outputs and related repairs should be rather routine. That said, one should understand that not every problem that involves convergence is going to be a simple matter of replacing output ICs. I generally allocate 2-3 hours including local travel to give plenty of time to do most jobs right. A less experienced tech should probably allocate 3-4 hours.

My charges are broken down into the categories of service call charge, labor, and parts. The service call charge is a flat rate for the trip out, diagnosis and providing an estimate. The labor is for the on site reapair, and the parts charge includes the chips, resistors, fuses, and a standard materials charge to cover things like solder, wick, heat sink compound, cleaners, freeze spray, etc.

A service call is priced by zip code, starting at $75 for the most local areas. Labor for most convergence output replacements is $150-225, depending on the set and specifics of the problem. We charge $37.50 each for most output ICs, $2.00 for most fuses, and $3.00 for most resistors, and $4.00 for materials. A typical repair would, therefore, cost from $300 to $375, plus tax *IF I WAS DOING IT LOCALLY*. Rates much higher than this would be reasonable in some markets, but with sloppy or less thorough service would, IMO, be a poor value.

All repairs should include the following and my techs are expected to (provide):
Prepare for the job BEFORE leaving the shop by doing necessary research to perform the job efficiently.
Arrive on time per scheduled appointments.
Diagnosis.
Parts replacement with the most updated part appropriate for the set using only original OEM parts.
Thorough cleaning of the heat sink and proper application of new heat sink compound.
Solder left looking as good or better than original factory work.
Cleaning of excess flux residue.
Resoldering other areas in the set known to create problems such as regulators or vertical ICs.
Carefully re-dressing wires in original manner.
Cleaning screens, lenses and mirrors with safe and effective products.
Optical, mechanical, electrostatic, and/or magnetic focusing as possible and necessary.
Visual gray scale adjustment.
Better than factory convergence adjustment in almost all cases.
A.C. leakage test for safety.
Grounding check.
Basic user level adjustment of the picture.
System evealuation and recommendations for improved wiring, wire management, system design, surge suppression, etc.
90 day warranty on repairs.

This is just the view of one service manager, though it is based on experience going back to 1979 and hundreds of these kinds of repairs, along with communication with dozens of other dealers, techs and shops on a regular basis.


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## gewiz44

*Re: Repair Cost*

Hi,

First of all, thank you for your very informative narritave on convergence problems with RPTV's as well as source material and options for repair.

I am experiencing the red & blue convergence problems (green is perfect) you described with my Mitsubishi WT-42311. In looking for replacement IC's STK392-110, I have serched this site's suppliers for your recommended replacement, STK394-160, but have not been able to find a source to buy them. Do you know where I can find a good quality STK394-160? I have found STK392-110, 150, AND 180 but not much luck with the STK394-160. They all should be a good match for my Mits CRT RPTV set right?

Thanks for your help,

gewiz44


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## lcaillo

You can get the STK394-160 in the Hitachi kits mentioned above, available through the Hitachi distributors such as Tritronics and Andrews.


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## Guest

Terrific Article Thanks


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## tonyvdb

lcaillo,

Thank you so much for your hard work on this as this information will prove to be very helpful to many of us who have CRT RPTVs
So far my Sony has worked flawlessly but I suspect it wont be forever.

:T


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## gewiz44

*Re: The chips*

Hi,

I fixed my Mitsubishi WT-42311 using the information supplied in this thread, thanks. I tried to get the STK394-160's but because of problems with ordering and time, I settled for the STK392-150 IC's. I bought the solder sucker from radio shack ($11.00) and it worked like a charm. It's the one that is heated and has a squeeze bulb attached. After removing the old IC's I used a small screw driver to scribe around the old IC's onto the heat sink. That gave me a close placement guide for the new IC's to line up with the solder points on the circuit board. Then I spread a thin layer of new thermal compound on the back of each new IC and positioned them on the heat sink. It still took 4 - 5 tries to thread the 36 leads through the appropriate holes in the circuit board. My heat sink has holes to anchor through the circuit board into the TV chasis. I used small bolts to hold the heat sink to the circuit board for soldering. I applied flux to the leads and terimals and carefully soldered with a 45watt iron. Afterwards, I used a tooth brush to carefully clean flux and residue from between the terminals and checked with a magnifing glass to be sure nothing was bridging between any of the termanals. I then removed the bolts and carefully reinstalled the circuit board double and triple checking connections. I held my breath and turned on the power and it came on close to converged. After warming up I converged the set for both cable and component imputs and I noticed how hot the IC's were so I got a computer chip fan and attached it where it would blow on the chips and heat sink just to be safe. I used a cheap plug in transformer for it's power supply (12VDC) but I am thinking I could tap off of a transformer in the power supply of the TV for the fan (with a fuse in line) since it only draws .07 amps. It has a great picture and I am a happy camper.

Thanks again


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## lcaillo

While the 12 volt supply might be able to handle the extra load, for safety reasons I would recommend not trying it. You also may get some noise feeding back into the video or audio circuits from the fan. Just keep using the wall wart.


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## Guest

I also wanted to thank you for taking the time to write this lengthy post. I have been doing research on fixing a Hitachi 43UWX10B with a suspected convergence problem. I have quickly examined the board and don't see any obvious cooked resistors, but i will test them when the new chips come hopefully at the end of this week. I did extensive reading and found that Hitachi replaced the STK392-110's with the aforementioned 394-160's, which i have ordered. I bought them here if it's any help to people, http://bestbuy.partsearch.com/Part/Hitachi+Ltd/Hitachi/CZ01341/New.aspx, i also bought tools from www.electronix.com. i don't know much about either site, but Bestbuy seems reputable, and the only reason i went with Electronix is because it came up first with Google and had everything in a pretty good layout. Hopefully they were good decisions, i'll keep you posted on my progress and thank the Home Theater Shack and it's mods for excellent, informational, forums.


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## lcaillo

Thank you for the kind words. The parts from Best Buy appear to be originals, but the price is kind of high. I buy them in the Hitachi kit for a lower price. Electronix is a no go for semiconductors. For tools, etc, they are ok. The semiconductors that they sell are often cheap copies and not original Sanyo parts.


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## Guest

OK, all my parts and tools will be here tomorrow in time for the weekend. My last question is if anyone knows the resistors that typically go bad when the IC's cook. I see they're all marked on the board, but didn't know if someone could narrow down the possibilities for me, as I will probably test some of them to see if any may be bad. Again, thanks for all the help.


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## lcaillo

Look in the Resistors post above. More spcific tips would require some extra research or studying the schematic of your particular circuit.


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## gewiz44

Thanks for the input. I will continue to use the "wall wart" it is easier that way too. The TV has been working flawlessly. I'm as happy as a bug in warm poop.


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## Guest

OK. took the board out and seem to have a blown resistor. can i run the tv for a short and not cook the new ic's till i get a new resistor, or not good idea?


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## lcaillo

Never run any product with a known bad part, especially a convergence circuit with even one bad resistor. They are there for a reason and it is very possible to cause more problems.


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## Guest

Thanks to all the great info I was able to swap out the original convergence chips for aPT53W53G with 2 new -150's and everything works like new. All of your advice and comments were spot on.


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## Guest

OK folks, here's the scoop. I changed out the convergence chips on my 43UWX10B from STK392-110's to the new Hitachi STK394-160's. I also ended up swapping out the RK50 resistor, a 2.2ohm 1W, metal oxide resistor. The first run was a tough one. The screen was completely FUBAR'd and I thought all hope was lost. The blue was so far out I thought it would never come back. On top of things, my son and I began to smell something burning, and upon inspection behind the TV noticed the RK50 was glowing cherry red. I immediately unplugged the TV and was gonna give up. I had an extinguisher nearby, and said "screw it, i'm going for it". 20 minutes later in the DCAM and it actually looked really good. I was definately impressed with the picture, it seemed to be just fine. I unplugged the TV and metered the resistor, it was now cool and metered to 3ohms, outside the 5% tolerance of the 2.2. I attributed the bad resistor to the new convergence chips and the TV being so far out of whack. Luckily, I bought two, replaced it again, now with no glowing sensation, ran DCAM again, ran magic focus a couple times, and all seems to be extremely well. I am very happy with the picture, and the high-def kicks [email protected]#! I want to thank all of you again for your help, and I hope I don't need it, but if I do, I'll know where to look. :whew:


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## Guest

lcaillo, you rock!
Thanks for your time and sharing your knowledge. As a newbie I learned 2 tings. First, I'm probably going to pay someone with experience to do the repair (don't want to burn down the house). Second, the tech I had originally called for a quote is a bum! He quoted $600 and wasn't a fraction the professional you are. Thanks for your help!


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## lcaillo

You are welcome, but please post some details about the repair when you get it done. I would be curious what it ends up costing and where you are located. While $600 for a convergence repair is twice or more what I charge, some parts of NY have a cost of doing business that is proportionally that high. If you do get it done significantly cheaper by a legitimate business, I would be very curious to know the names of the shops so that we can quiz them on how they price repairs. Consumers need to understand how servicers come to charge what they do. Some are a rip-off, but many just are trying to make a living.


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## Guest

Hello, My Pioneer sd-533hd5 broke agin. I had the convergence chips repaired last year for $600. Now when I try to turn on TV it turns right off. I checked all fuses and they are fine. There is a red led light on , on one of the boards. Is there a way I can fix this myself, is it related to convergence repair? To pay another $600 for a 6 yr old tv seems rediculous. At that point I could have bought another brand new one. Any help would be very appreciated,

Thanks, Joe


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## lcaillo

I don't do a lot of Pioneer anymore, but over the years I have learned that most pioneer sets need to have hundreds of solder connections re-done, as they never seemed to master the process of getting parts soldered in a manner that would last very many years. There are lots of possibilities and one would need some troubleshooting experience and service literature to do any real evaluation of the set, but I rarely service a Pioneer that does not start with resoldering lots of connections.


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## Guest

Hi, great info!! I should be able to put it to good use. But first, I must be sure the problem I see is due to a convergence failure. It seems the only issue is with the blue. There are arcing blue lines through the bottom 1/3 of the picture and the upper corners are blue. I attached a couple pictures to illistrate. Please take a look and advise.
Thanks!


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## lcaillo

Looks like a convergence issue to me.


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## drdoan

Either a pincushion amp or the convergence board is defective. Probably will require a service call. Dennis


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## lcaillo

All pincushion correction in these sets is done via the convergence generator and convergence output amps. One channel (blue vertical) of one of the ICs is likely bad, with perhaps a resistor or two. Read the posts ar the top of the thread for more info.


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## Guest

Thanks for your reply! Another question, if I order the Hitachi kit, will the resistor values be the same as what is in the board?....this is a Panasonic model PT51HX41E, chassis #AP820.....which kit should I order?
Thanks


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## lcaillo

No, they will not be the same. Each set has a unique circuit even if the chips are the same. If you just want the chips get the one that you can find cheapest.


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## Guest

lcaillo said:


> While the 12 volt supply might be able to handle the extra load, for safety reasons I would recommend not trying it. You also may get some noise feeding back into the video or audio circuits from the fan. Just keep using the wall wart.


Just wanted to say thanks lcaillo, for all your time to put this thread together , I was very nearly caught up in the extorsion that my local repair guy (Gold Coast, Australia) was about to inflict on me.

He would not even look at the set unless I let him pick it up, and that was $110 ,whilst the repair would start at $300 on top of that. He had no phone credit to return my calls , and I dont think I would have put my dog in his van , let alone my 134cm.:wits-end:

So feeling helpless, and after sneakily finding out what and where the convergence board was, I came up with the STK392-120 chip number , entered it in the google search , and well here we are.

Cut a long story short, In australia I cant buy these IC's any cheaper than $130 each+ freight, so after buying them online from "Electronic Repair Kits" in Canada (Got 2 Pairs ,1 Pair For later) They arrived in 4 days and cost $5 air freight, which was cheaper than the freight in my own country. Also the IC's cost me $15 each as opposed to $130 each over here.:T

So after following clear instuctions, that I found on the net.

http://home.earthlink.net/~oleg.filippov/ConvergenceFix.htm

And then proudly turning the TV on, in front of the "astonished" Wife and Kids , Im glad to say if I wasent a legend in their eyes before ,I certainly am Now ! (thanks to you):hail:

So one question before I wind it up?

I have noticed the 2 big heat sinks on my IC board, Getting very hot.

( by the way my TV is an LG PT53A83T ), ,

So much so that I can only hold my hand on them for a matter of seconds before getting to hot to touch.
This cant be good , and after reading the thread and any other thread I can find on this , Was wondering is this normal ?

I noticed one Gentleman in this thread putting a PC chip fan , on his heatsinks which seems like a great idea , however wouldn't he have to keep turning the tranformer on and off with the TV, Or can you get them that only turn on with the sencing of heat ??????

Any advise is appreciated, and once again thankyou for your great thread.

Kind Regards Marty. :bigsmile:


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## lcaillo

These ICs run hot, but some sets hotter than others. Excessive dc ofset or excessive correction at the edges of the range of the chips can make them run hotter. I don't have a problem with fans, as long as they are mounted externally and do not use any of the internal power supplies in the set. I would start by verifying the setup is consistent with that in the service literature for your set and that there is no more than a couple hundred millivolts of dc on the inputs to each channel of the output ICs.


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## Guest

lcaillo said:


> These ICs run hot, but some sets hotter than others. Excessive dc ofset or excessive correction at the edges of the range of the chips can make them run hotter. I don't have a problem with fans, as long as they are mounted externally and do not use any of the internal power supplies in the set. I would start by verifying the setup is consistent with that in the service literature for your set and that there is no more than a couple hundred millivolts of dc on the inputs to each channel of the output ICs.


HHmmmmm, thanks lcaillo, soldering in the New IC's may have elevated me to Legend status with the family, but Im out of my depth well and truely now.
Any Ideas on how I would start to verifying what you speak of.
:dontknow::dontknow:

Regards Marty


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## Guest

Icaillo,
Thanks, I'll order individual STKs. Where is a good source to order a schematic? I'd like to know what resistor locations to check and have an idea what resistance to expect. Is it a good idea to relace the caps as well?
Thanks again!

Brad


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## lcaillo

martaroony said:


> HHmmmmm, thanks lcaillo, soldering in the New IC's may have elevated me to Legend status with the family, but Im out of my depth well and truely now.
> Any Ideas on how I would start to verifying what you speak of.
> :dontknow::dontknow:
> 
> Regards Marty


I am happy to provide general advice or obvious symptom repair info, but cannot provide step by step troubleshooting on specific sets, nor start a tutorial on service torubleshooting. If the info that I have provided is not sufficient, I strongly suggest that you get a professional involved.


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## lcaillo

bdrew said:


> Icaillo,
> Thanks, I'll order individual STKs. Where is a good source to order a schematic? I'd like to know what resistor locations to check and have an idea what resistance to expect. Is it a good idea to relace the caps as well?
> Thanks again!
> 
> Brad


The resistors that usually get damaged are the ones on the output of the ICs. It is not common to need to replace capacitors in most convergence repairs. The sure way to get a service manual is to go through the manufacturer or its authorized parts distributors. You might also find places to download it online. I will caution you that navigation the electronic versions of the Panasonic manuals is the most astoundingly obtuse of any electronic documents I have ever seen. The paper versions are more easy to figure out for most people. You also may not get everything in versions provided online outside of Panasonic's distribution.


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## Guest

lcaillo said:


> The resistors that usually get damaged are the ones on the output of the ICs. It is not common to need to replace capacitors in most convergence repairs. The sure way to get a service manual is to go through the manufacturer or its authorized parts distributors. You might also find places to download it online. I will caution you that navigation the electronic versions of the Panasonic manuals is the most astoundingly obtuse of any electronic documents I have ever seen. The paper versions are more easy to figure out for most people. You also may not get everything in versions provided online outside of Panasonic's distribution.


Thanks again sir! I was able to find the STK394-250A (to replace STK392-110) at ACME for $13.49 each!! They are around $25 elsewhere. They claim they are original Sanyo parts...but the price is quite low. I guess I'm the suspicious type:foottap: I value your opinion:huh:
It sounds like I can do without the schematics...maybe just follow the traces from the output pins. But I may need the service manual for alignments??
It appears I nearly have all the info I need....then I can quit bugging you. It's been very enlightening!

Brad


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## lcaillo

Acme is one of the few suppliers that goes to great lengths to assure that they provide only first quality original parts. They also have some of the best prices. I would verify with them that the stk394-250 is a good sub for the stk392-110. I think that it may have a different muting circuit and may not work in some sets. I use the STK394-160 to replace the STK392-110 and have never had a problem. I have only used the -250 in sets that were designed around it. Glen at Acme should be able to give you the scoop. Just email him. I don't buy the -160 from him because I get them in the Hitachi kits for the lowest price, and he is not a Hitachi distributor. For products that they do have, you can count on them to be a great supplier.

You definitely need the documentation to align the Panasonic. The service menu and convergence adjustments are as poorly designed as their electronic service manuals.


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## Guest

I just replaced my convergence chips in my Hitachi 43fdx01b. Things are looking SOO much better now. I spent a bit of time aligning the convergence last night (and it looked smooth!). I ran the set for about an hour with the fixed convergence and I didn't see any changes occur during that time. I turned it on this morning to find the convergence slightly off (equal to 'post new stk's without adjustment. Didn't get as bad as pre stk replacement).

What would cause the convergence to go out of whack after sitting for 5 hours? I replaced both convergence chips, and tested all the resistors. Everything checks out, and I can achieve a great picture. It just won't ******* hold!! Should I go for the blue button?? Also, anyone have any idea about how to access the controls to dim the grey bars in widescreen mode?

Thanks a ton! This forum is awesome.



Chris

*UPDATE!* It seems the adjustments go away after I turn the TV off!? Wha? How do I get around this? Seems like the settings aren't saving. Hopefully an easy fix (probably and operator error...:dontknow: ha!)


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## Guest

I have a mitsubishi ws65909. I believe I have a convergence problem because when I try to adjust the convergence for the red... it does not converge. any advice?


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## lcaillo

Read the posts at the top of this thread.


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## Guest

I've read the threads and I've googled mitsubish ws-65909 convergence problem and found that it may be STK392-570 IC's. I am electrically inclined and wanted to know if there are diagrams that show where these IC's are located at.


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## lcaillo

You could get a service manual but if you just look for the largest heat sink you can't miss the location of the IC. IIRC, your set uses a single STK393-110 rather than two ICs. Be careful to buy only from the recommended distributors.


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## Guest

Hello! My Mitsubishi WS55511 had red shadows on both sides of the screen. The convergence could not be corrected. I followed the directions here and ordered myself a convergence IC from MCM Electronics. An Excellent supplier might I add. My front buttons and remote didn't work either, so I had some other parts I ordered from there. All in all, my set is alive and kicking, in HD! Many thanks lcaillo for your detailed posting. I will be sure to add my problems and solutions to this forum for all.


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## sasquachh

Icaillo, 
I've got to say "thank you" for taking the time to post all this information. I've been scouring the Net trying to get detailed information and it looks like I found it here. Thank you!!

Regarding Mitsubishi WS-55511
In addition to complimenting your posts I'd like to ask a question (of course)  On another site I was told my Convergence IC and possibly a couple resistors next to it are bad. This is because I can no longer adjust the horizontal red convergence, vertical is fine. While I will be removing the board / panel from the TV I'd like to know the details of the resistors that might need to be replaced. Would you know what type of resistors these are (ohms, size, etc.), and the directions in replacing them as well as replacing the IC? 
Guess I'm looking to find a (free?) service manual, or just an overview on the procedure which includes the specs on the resistors and such. 
Any help on this will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Larry


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## lcaillo

I rarely see resistors fail along with the convergence ICs in this model. While the chip is out, look for heat stressed resistors and verify that the large ones near the output IC are not open.


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## sasquachh

I'll check them out when I replace the IC.
Thank you for the Info., I do appreciate it. Soon as I get the work completed I'll let you know the results. I'll take pictures along the way.
Thank you,
Larry
PS: Is there a guide or anything which details the procedure in replacing the IC? It doesn't look like it's going to be brain surgery but I appreciate all the help I can get


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## Guest

Hey there Sasquachh. I have the same model tv, and i just did my repair about a month ago. One advice, as you remove the harnesses one-by-one, its a good idea to number them, and then draw an approximate location on a piece of paper. I used masking tape and a sharpie. Basically, a rough layout of the location of the harnesses on the board. The harnesses are numbered, but the numbers on the board are not easily visible, and a layout on paper will help guide you when you're putting them back. Pretty much all wire-ties will have to be undone. Do not force the wires out, and always hold the connector, not the wires. When you have removed the assembly completely, be sure to carefully dust it off with some compressed air for electronics. Do this away from the tv set and preferably not inside your house. You can get a can from radio shack or a similar store. And while you're there, pick up a little tube of thermal paste. You'll need it for the new chip.

The center board will have to be removed from the frame. Be careful when you handle the board after you've unscrewed it. I used a piece of cardboard on the table, then flipped the board over and de-soldered the chip. After you have removed the chip, the resistors can be tested. 

I am giving you some hints as I assume you have not done anything similar before. Pardon my ignorance if I offend you. Sorry, I did not take pictures, my camera's memory card has been acting up. 

So, take your time, and good luck!


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## sasquachh

Kaindia,
thank you so much for taking the time to explain this. You're right, I've never done anything like this before so I do appreciate any help I can get. Being out here in snow-covered Southern Utah help is further than just down the street. If only this TV broke 6 months ago when I still lived in Irvine California, there were more than enough electricians around there, but going through this was my destiny I suppose 
In any case I'll follow your advice. Thank you again and "Happy New Year".
Larry


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## Typhus

lcaillo said:


> You could get a service manual but if you just look for the largest heat sink you can't miss the location of the IC. IIRC, your set uses a single STK393-110 rather than two ICs. Be careful to buy only from the recommended distributors.



Hi lcaillo, and thank you for the very detailed steps you have provided in attempting an IC repair.
I will be attempting to fix a convergence issue on my Mits WS65807 and was just curious if I have (2)
STK392-570 chips, or just (1), as in the above post.
Thanks, Typhus


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## Guest

Great forum!

I have a Hitachi 53UWX10B. I was going to order the 150 IC's, but apparently the 160's run cooler? Do I need to change out any resistors from what I have now (110's that are bad), assuming they're still good if I switch to the 160's (or 150's for that matter)?

How do I find out which kit to order? I had found x480293, but I'm not sure if that comes with 160's or not. This site has a x480293 kit and it says it comes with 160's, but I don't know how to tell if they're original or not (audiolabga):

http://www.audiolabga.com/mal_cart/data_html/X480293.html

Thanks!


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## lcaillo

The kit under the part number X480293 should be a Hitachi supplied kit and if so is the correct one for your set. Just make sure that the supplier is an authorized Hitachi distributor. I don't know if Audiolab of GA is or not, but I know Tritronics, Vance Baldwin, and Andrews are.


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## Guest

Ok, thanks. I'll find out if they are.

What about the first question in my post about the resistors?


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## lcaillo

If you have the right kit from Hitachi, I would recommend just changing all of the resistors that they have supplied for your set.


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## Guest

I have hitachi ultravision 61UDX10B. Based on informantion provided by Icaillo, I think I have a convergence problem for blue in vedrical channel because when I try to adjust the convergence for the blue for vertical channel... it does not converge. See attached picture. Will changing IC fix this problem?

Thanks,


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## lcaillo

Changing the ICs AND any open resistors AND adjusting the convergence should solve the problem.


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## Guest

Thank you very much Icaillo for an informative thread about RPTV Convergence. I have a Samsung HLC473WBX/XAC and its on its second convergence episode. The first time I paid cash to the tech where I placed the sevice call to, $375. After reading about this problem I think the manufacturers should have sent all of us to a course before purchasing a RPTV.lol.
I would like to ask you about a Diod/Resistor on the back of the board. It looks like its encased in clear material. I tried to check it with DMM, infinite on Ohms and no effect on Diod setting.
Thanks again,
nik


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## lcaillo

What do you want to ask? Do you have a location number? Why is this part of interest? I am not sure I know the answer but I would have to have more info before I can respond.


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## Guest

Good Evening;

I have a Sony KP-53XBR45 set that has the following issue: The top left and bottom right corners are distorted, whereas the blue and red look wavey. For example, if I turn off my source equipment, and the set displays "VIDEO 1" in the top left corner, the letters appear nice and straight in green, but a red and blue copy of the letters start out about 4-5" lower at the "V", but by the time you get to the "1", the three colors are almost aligned. 

Am I correct to assume this is a convergence issue? When I select the convergence aligmnent in the user menus, I can adjust red or blue down and left / right, but not above the center mark. 

I do component level repairs for a living on two way and RF infrastructure, but never really played with TVs. I can troubleshoot to componenet level, and can read schematics and understand circuit designs, but its always nice to know of common issues to speed the process. I have a fully equipped shop (tools, soldering/desoldering stations, scopes, etc), so hopefully I can get the "D" board out and down to my workshop to perform a neat job replacing the two STK392-010s. I wish I read your posts earlier about upgrading to newer (better rated) parts, but at least I think I got original Sanyo parts. Speaking of which, is there any way to tell an original from a knockoff? The ones I have here have the STK # in white, with a date code in the upper left. My experience with most parts is that originals have the mfg's logo or similar on it. Not the case with STKs?

While I'm on a roll with the keyboard - has anyone repaired a Sony KP-53XBR45 or similar for the same symptoms?

Thanks
Botcher.


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## lcaillo

Replace the ICs, check the fuses and resistors, and make sure the heat sinking is done properly and you should be fine. The best way to be sure that you have original parts is to buy them from one of the suppliers that I listed.


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## Guest

I removed the D board and replaced the STK392-010s this afternoon. I had some difficulty with the heat sink grease compound, as the original compound turned into a glue-like substance. I had to carefully pry off the old STKs with a fine blade, then carefully use a razor blade to remove the old material. I then carefully cleaned the heat sink, and installed the new STKs with new compound. More time messing with the compound then anything else! 

I guess 12 years of heat and dryness did in the plastic clips that held the D board in place, because the minute I touched them, they all cracked off. Fortunately the screws hold it in place securely enough.

I then noticed how much dust settled on the three color gun lenses. I cleaned them off and could see clear glass again. I then fired up the set, and the convergence is fine :yay: The picure looks brighter and better than it has in years :teeth:

Now I have another few minor issues I'd like to tackle while I'm at it. 

First, the focus looks like it has been a little out for some time. From what I read in the 53XBR45 service manual, the only thing I see for focus is 3 adjustments on the SCREEN/FOCUS block. My only past experience has been the single adjusment focus on older single CRT tv sets. How do I go about re-focusing this RPTV?

Another is that the upper left corner of the screen has always slanted down a little. For example, when the Directv channel info banner, or a sports score banner is displayed, it looks un-level. The right hand side looks fine, but the left side slants down a few degrees. However, the bottom edge of the screen looks perfectly level, so it is ok as far as I can tell. Just the top edge. The left/right sides also look straight when I display an HD channel (the set is only SD, but as a test, when I tune a DTV HD channel, the box is showing the side bars, and they look straight as can be). I'd like to try and adjust it back. Any idea what adjustment(s) would do that?

Finally, the built in NTSC tuner. When the set is turned on, the tuner will not tune any channels, and it looks like it is trying to AFC a channel, but never quite gets to a point of actually displaying anything other than black noise, and no detection of audio, just a buzzing like static noise. Sometimes, but not always, after a few hours of being on, the set will tune channels just fine. I would equate it to a VCO unlock condition on a PLL circuit (from my two-way radio experience). I mostly use Video in sources, so its not the end of the world. Any ideas where to start? 

Thanks
Botcher


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## lcaillo

Adjust the R,G&B focus controls for the best focus overall. Clean the mirror as well as the lenses. The geometry on these sets was not perfect and can be a challenge to get right in one corner without trading off something else. If you are not skilled in this area I would not mess with it. The tuning problem is likely bad solder connections in the IF block or the Tuner, probably the former.


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## inn8pwr

I have an SD-643HD5 Pioneer 64" rear projection TV that has lost the green grid geometry a bit in all modes. I've ordered the IC's and will install them assuming there are the likely fix. I feel I'm running a bit on ignorance tho. Once they are installed, will the green geometry go back to normal? If not, where does one suggest I get a service manual from? I'd like one that's not a scanned version with unreadable tables. Thanks,


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## lcaillo

The only place to be sure that you are getting the original manual is Pioneer. Their manuals are typically ridiculously expensive, however. That unit likely had an .pdf version of the manual and you can probably find an adequate copy on the web somewhere for considerably less.

If you are replacing a defective IC, you should be in the ballpark but need some convergence adjustment in all modes.


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## inn8pwr

I found the Manual on Manualparadise.com in PDF format and was provided this link on another forum: http://home.earthlink.net/~oleg.filippov/ConvergenceFix.htm

I also received the IC's and will attempt the repair myself. I'll let you know how it goes.


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## inn8pwr

I was looking at the "multiconvergence" photo on the link above and note that the green grid looks perfect while only the red and blue look wavy. On my set the green is the wavy one. Is this an IC problem with the green or is there a seperate more likely cause? I'd hate to do all the work for nothing. Thanks.


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## Guest

Thanks for this great forum. Yesterday I replaced the two STK392-120 ICs in my Phillips 60PP9202. Green was out of convergence when I would first turn on the TV. After it was allowed to warm up and I turned it off & on a few times, it would clear up. However, I knew one or both of the ICs were going bad. While I was replaceing the ICs, in error, I did not check the resisters. Know when I turn it on, the colors are in convergence, but the entire picture is bowed like an hour-glass layed on its side.

Might this be one or more of the resisters?

I have also read that it may be a "Convergence Amp", is this different that the ICs?

Thanks for any direction you can give me.


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## lcaillo

inn8pwr said:


> I was looking at the "multiconvergence" photo on the link above and note that the green grid looks perfect while only the red and blue look wavy. On my set the green is the wavy one. Is this an IC problem with the green or is there a seperate more likely cause? I'd hate to do all the work for nothing. Thanks.


The green can have the same problems as red and blue. Read the info in the thread about how the circuits work.


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## lcaillo

Fast Hound said:


> Thanks for this great forum. Yesterday I replaced the two STK392-120 ICs in my Phillips 60PP9202. Green was out of convergence when I would first turn on the TV. After it was allowed to warm up and I turned it off & on a few times, it would clear up. However, I knew one or both of the ICs were going bad. While I was replaceing the ICs, in error, I did not check the resisters. Know when I turn it on, the colors are in convergence, but the entire picture is bowed like an hour-glass layed on its side.
> 
> Might this be one or more of the resisters?
> 
> I have also read that it may be a "Convergence Amp", is this different that the ICs?
> 
> Thanks for any direction you can give me.



If all of the colors are bowed in you likely have no power to the convergence amps. Check the fuses in the power supply to the chips as well as the resistors. Failure to replace the resistors can damage the new chips, also.


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## inn8pwr

Reading the last few links it appears clear that one should check and/or replace the fuses, resistors and possibly convergence amp. I need help identifying these components. I assume a 60w iron will work well on the board and while I'm replacing the IC's perhaps it's best to do the others as well. Any info on the the part numbers and location for online ordering are also very helpful. I'm starting to think that my local shop should get involved, but honestly, the guy that showed up seemed to have "no clue" when it came to pioneer models. They just recently became a pioneer shop, but, well,... you know. Thanks for any advise.


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## lcaillo

At the top of this thread are some posts that I made that pretty much cover most of the generic information about convergence repairs that you need to know. If you have specific questions after reading that, regarding your situation and your set, please start a new thread. Include the complete model number and specifics about what you have found, done, and need. I will be glad to try to help if I can.


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## Guest

Would you be able to give me some idea on where I can locate the fuses in the power supply to the chips? It is a Philips 60PP9202.


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## Guest

Hello lcaillo:jiggy:
I had reading this thread for quiet some time, I have a Sony KP 65 WS 510 and have a huge convergence problem with my set, Yesterday I replaced my STKs(392-560)and checked all my resistors and Ic outputs,but still have problems adjusting my Tv, What else I can do? Did I miss something?Thanks :bigsmile:


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## lcaillo

Fast Hound said:


> Would you be able to give me some idea on where I can locate the fuses in the power supply to the chips? It is a Philips 60PP9202.


Philips sets usually have pico fuses soldered into the board on the secondary of the main switching transformer in the power supply. They are often labelled on the board.


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## lcaillo

technoguy said:


> Hello lcaillo:jiggy:
> I had reading this thread for quiet some time, I have a Sony KP 65 WS 510 and have a huge convergence problem with my set, Yesterday I replaced my STKs(392-560)and checked all my resistors and Ic outputs,but still have problems adjusting my Tv, What else I can do? Did I miss something?Thanks :bigsmile:


What kind of problem are you having adjusting the set? Do you have the documentation on the service menu? Do you understand how to align the convergence or are you just using the auto-convergence? The more information you include, the more likely you are to get a meaningful answer.

Please start a new thread with your individual problems.


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## Guest

Again, thanks. Upon checking the resistors I immediately found two of the six appear bad, #3155 & 3156. They are located right next to each other. They are discolored (brownish) and swollen in the middle. They would not even read on my ohm meter when the others were consistently the same.

What are the chances of this being the cause of the hour-glass picture?

Your explanation of the fuse location was greek to me, but I will do some research and find the location. Is there a recommended way of testing the fuse when I locate it?


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## Guest

lcaillo said:


> What kind of problem are you having adjusting the set? Do you have the documentation on the service menu? Do you understand how to align the convergence or are you just using the auto-convergence? The more information you include, the more likely you are to get a meaningful answer.
> 
> Please start a new thread with your individual problems.


Wow you're fast!
After the Stks got replaced I still have problems with the convergence and geometry on the set. A friend of mine told me that probably I have a blown fuse on G board(I'll check that tomorrow) but I still think I have something going on with voltage reg since I notice the red gun is upscale intermittent and wasn't doing that before.I can't do a auto convergence because it appear to have an empty memory,I did all factory reset on the svc menu (Thank God I bought the Svc manual and schematics) but still I don't know what else I can do.


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## lcaillo

Fast Hound said:


> Again, thanks. Upon checking the resistors I immediately found two of the six appear bad, #3155 & 3156. They are located right next to each other. They are discolored (brownish) and swollen in the middle. They would not even read on my ohm meter when the others were consistently the same.
> 
> What are the chances of this being the cause of the hour-glass picture?
> 
> Your explanation of the fuse location was greek to me, but I will do some research and find the location. Is there a recommended way of testing the fuse when I locate it?


A fuse should read a short or very close to it. Really, if you need to be told this, your learning curve for this kind of repair is pretty steep and a Philips product is not one to be learning on. Be very careful! It may be time to get a professional to do this job.


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## lcaillo

technoguy said:


> Wow you're fast!
> After the Stks got replaced I still have problems with the convergence and geometry on the set. A friend of mine told me that probably I have a blown fuse on G board(I'll check that tomorrow) but I still think I have something going on with voltage reg since I notice the red gun is upscale intermittent and wasn't doing that before.I can't do a auto convergence because it appear to have an empty memory,I did all factory reset on the svc menu (Thank God I bought the Svc manual and schematics) but still I don't know what else I can do.



I do not understand "upscale intermittent."

One should NEVER do a convergence reset without a very good reason. You will find it very difficult to get it right again, and you are likely to overcorrect in some areas and drive the ICs very hard. Hopefully you did not save the reset condition and you may recover the data.

Please guys, start a new thread for your individual problems. It will be veryconfusing to ever go back and sort out what set is being discussed here if someone else wants to research something. You MUST read the posts at the top of the thread and you MUST be specific in your requests for help. A single thread for each problem keeps the forum much more clear.


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## Guest

Hello again lcaillo. I used the information in this thread to repair my Mitsubishi with success. I attempted the repair on my friend's Samsung with no luck. I replaced both the STKs and 4 resistors. Two resistors had burnt out the trace on the PCB. When I replaced the resistors, the trace tested good to the pin on the STK. Put everything together, and the convergence still could not be adjusted. The tv is a Samsung HCM5525W.

The convergence on this set is adjustable for all three colors. The green horizontal is the only one that responds. Verticle is a no go. The Blue and Red does not respond at all in either direction, up or down. I don't know what to do. Could you advise?

I have attached a picture as a reference.

Thank you.


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## lcaillo

Further repair would take some troubleshooting...at this point I would be verifying the info that you gave above and likely getting out my scope if it is correct. My guess is that you missed something in the repair, or perhaps you do not have complete info on how to adjust the convergence.


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## Guest

I will re-examine the board this weekend. Thank you.


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## Guest

I bought the repair kit from Tritronics for my Hitachi 53FDX01B. Originally my Blue was not a straight line in the convergence menu and the replacement parts removed the curve however the Blue Horizontal is now a diaginol line moving at a downward angle from left to right. The covergence screen does not allow me to straiten the line just move it up or down. Are there addtional options I can try to fix my problem.

I can't even find a certified Hitachi tech with in 25 miles of my house that makes house calls. I'm not dragging this thing to a shop.

Peter


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## lcaillo

What do you mean that the convergence screen does not allow you to stratighten it? What procedure are you using?


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## Guest

*Re: The chips*

I have an RCA R52WH74 where the convergence has gone bad when then set was powered on.
I went to the menu setup page and the "convergence" option is no longer there. I have read that the problem could be a bad fuse(little brown block looking thing) somewhere. Or the problem could be the convergence IC STK392-040. On my model, I am not sure where these components (the fuse or ICs) actually are located...Can someone help me with the location?
Thanks
Rick


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## lcaillo

If a fuse has blown, it is unlikely that changing it will solve the problem. I am not very familiar with that convergence circuit, but if you look for the largest heat sinks, you will likely find the ICs if it has them. Some of the RCA sets have discrete transistors rather than IC outputs.


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## Guest

lcaillo said:


> Further repair would take some troubleshooting...at this point I would be verifying the info that you gave above and likely getting out my scope if it is correct. My guess is that you missed something in the repair, or perhaps you do not have complete info on how to adjust the convergence.


The set I'm working on is a 55" Samsung HCM5525W. After taking it apart a second time, I closely examined the board around the STKs. I found two pico fuses that I hadn't noticed before. I found them by the marking on the underside of the board. They were both green and looked like resistors without the indentifying bands. I ohmed both of them, and one was open. It was labeled FD101S on my board. So I replaced it, and finally I was able to correct the convergence. The fuse probably blew when the STKs went out, and burnt the resistors. 

For those who are having trouble correcting convergence after replacing the convergence ICs, look for a sine wave symbol on the underside of the board. That indicates a fuse, and is usually soldered on the board like a resistor. 

Thanks again lcaillo!


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## Guest

nice write up!!


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## Guest

The line is not perfectly horizontal, it angles downward. I am in the customer convergence menu with the cross hairs using the remote to move the lines. Access by the convergence button on the TV's control panel.

If I move the line up or down it is still angled. Since the other lines are perfectly horizontal they can not lie on each other to create the white. Does the service menu offer addtional options.


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## lcaillo

Sounds like you moved the blue yoke. You need to get the service and training info to go through the convergence alignment. I don't recall on that unit specifically whether there is a tilt adjustment or not, but again, my guess is that you just twisted the yoke.


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## Guest

Brief story: got lazy, and got convinced to call repair shop (did not have schematics at time), after $400 and only one visit had the Magnavox 51MP392H/17 fixed with replacing the STK392-120s due to convergence issue. About 1 month went by and then (while watching) set would power down and after a few seconds power up, CRTs would start to illuminate then power off again. could only stop this by unplugging set. Now it became my challenge to fix. If this would have happened after I did the initial fix certain person with significant influence in household would have NEVER let me live it down. :foottap: Got schematics (SAMS) started checking, replaced the power MOSFET, power control IC for the MOSFET and a few diodes etc.... no luck. Did not consider infant mortality initially but it was the problem, the STK392-120s needed replacement, the supply voltage as measured on the ICs never recovered as the set was trying to power up. As a result of checking for bad resistors, caps or open circuits I discovered the two STKs were not connected to the supplies as the schematic indicated. One had +35VDC, -35VDC and a -22VDC supply connection the other only a +35 and -35 supply connection. :scratchhead: All supply voltages come from same winding (different taps) on transformer per the schematic. The discrepancy bothered me, decided to change board (removed existing jumper, installed "custom jumper" on pwb) so both STKs have 3 supply voltages. The two application notes on the data sheet (for the STKs) did not closely match the configuration in the set. Been working now for two months no problems. Bought the STKs from a site that promised genuine Sanyo parts I also recommend this. Now why post this.. 1) to share the experience. 2) possibly someone can answer the question was this modification I made good, bad or indifferent, and why. Do I recommend others do similar??, no not without further understanding of the longer term effects of the modifications I made.


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## lcaillo

My suspicion is that you did not modify the circuit at all. A problem on these sets that I have on these sets is that techs will crack a trace on the board. It was likely not easily visible or even just partly cracked when he serviced it, then with thermal cycling eventually cracked, trashing the chip. Could also be that he just used a cheap copy for the replacement parts. What you did should be fine if it conforms to the design intent for the IC.

The lesson that I would take from this is that there are lots of pitfalls with any repair. Be very careful not to damage boards and use known OEM parts unless there is a very good reason to do otherwise. Finally, never assume that mistakes are not waiting to happen with every action you take. One must be very careful working on these boards. Some of them can be very fragile. Some are well made and easy. Assume nothing.


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## Guest

Hello all
I am working on a friend's pioneer tv (don't have the model number) and the red convergence would not properly align. I have replaced the two STK392-110's with STK394-250A's (from ACME) and none of the color's will adjust now (previously, all were adjustable). All resistors are unburned and within spec, capacitors appear fine as well. The mute circuitry seems different, according to this thread as well as the datasheets. As I've read here, all colors bowed (as they now are) was attributed to no power to the STK's, but I would assume that the chip's output being muted would also cause the same problem? The 250A's datasheet states 'high' input on pin 2 for unmute, whereas the pcb has pin 2 grounded...Just want to make sure that cutting the trace and tying the pin to 5V may solve the problem, driving out to his house takes a while.


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## lcaillo

I do not recommend making modifications to the circuit. The STK392-110 should be replaced with STK392-150 or STK394-160, not the chip that you used. It is always best to use exact replacement parts. Pioneer replaced the -110 chips with the -150 and -180 versions. We know that the best solution is to use the STK394-160 from Hitachi and from using it in many other sets to replace the STK392-110. While the STK-394-250 appears to be the same except for the mute circuit, there is simply no good reason to take chances with circuit redesign in the field. Save yourself some headaches and get the right parts.


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## Guest

O.K. I've got the dreaded convergence problem on a Hitachi 53UWX10BA. Had it fixed (?) about 14 months ago and now it's back. Gonna give it a shot at fixin it myself this time and save myself 400 bucks ! I've ordered the parts already from Andrews and downloaded a schematic. My problem is that I'm not the most experianced person in the world when it comes to electronics. Fixin a car I can do but I'm a stranger to circuit boards and such. I know where the two STK 392-110's are but how do I know which resistors are the ones that are associated with them to replace ?


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## lcaillo

Read the posts at the start of the thread.


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## Guest

I've read the thread but I really don't know how to read the schematic to determine which resistors go with the STK's or at least how many there are . One of your post says the kit has more resistors than I'll need so that kinda of eliminates me just changing out what comes with the kit....


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## lcaillo

On your set the resistors are the large ones standing up off the board between the ICs and the red, green, and blue convergence connectors, to the left of the ICs looking from the back. If you go the right kit for your set, just change them all.


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## Guest

Thanks guy.Your posts have been very informative. They are basically what convinced me to try this myself. I don't mind a tech earning a living but when I get charged 400 bucks to do a job that only requires less than 40 bucks or so for parts and doesn't last longer than 14 months, not to mention that I had to deliver and pickup the TV , that kinda rubs me wrong the wrong way.This ain't brain surgery.It's fixin a TV for cryin out loud !


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## lcaillo

This happens to be a very routine repair. Most repairs are not so simple and service shops lose money on those, so they make it up on routine repairs. $400 is still more than I charge, even with a service call to the home to repair the set. This is not a repair that should require the set to go to the shop. It is also not a repair that should have to be repeated in 14 months. It is likely that the tech either used inferior parts or missed something. If it is the latter, it is likely that you will miss it as well.


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## Guest

Miss it I might , but I'll feel a lot better about it knowing that I tried . I'm out $37 for the parts ,$9.95 shipping and $15 for the schematic. Not to mention the satisfaction of knowing that I tackled something new. Thanks for sharing your information on the web like this. Knowledge is wealth and a dumb ol' Okie like me needs all the help I can get ! The parts should be here in 3-6 days , I'll let you know how it turns out.


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## Guest

Icaillo,

First off thank you so much for all the detailed information on repairing convergence problems with replacing IC's and resistors. I have a Hitachi 57F500A, rear projection TV with the infamous convergence problem. Bought the SANYO IC # STK-394-160’s kit with the resistors. I removed the old STK392-150 and replaced with the new 160’s. Checked and metered the resistors on the board and all seemed fine. Installed everything back together and I get no video and no sound.

The original problem was a convergence issue but I had video and audio. After replacing the IC’s, the TV turns on but no audio and no video. What did I do wrong? Do I need to replace all the resistors? The soldering on all of them looked fine. I recently did this same repair on a 55” Toshiba and it worked like a charm.

Please help.


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## lcaillo

You likely pulled a connector loose. Check the boards carefully.


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## Guest

Please excuse my ignorance...connector?

Thanks for the quick response.


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## lcaillo

Connectors - those things on the end of a wire or bundle of wires that plug in to the sockets on the circuit board.


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## Guest

I took pictures of all the connector locations prior to pullingn them. Double checked all those connectors (three from the firing guns RBG, board jumper connectors, etc) and they are all in. Also tried pulling large red, blk, white wires from large round black "box" next to IC Chip and heat sink but could never remove them completely. Do these control audio/video? Is there an easy way to pull these? My next step is to pull the board out again and confirm that there are no cold solders on the IC chip pins. I doubt it, but it's worth a try. The weird thing is that I get no Video and no Audio.

Really stomping me! Any other thoughts, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks


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## lcaillo

Obviously something changed between the time it worked and it didn't. The most likely culprit is something that you did. It is certainly possible that some other fault coincidentally occurred, but this is pretty unlikely. You need to figure out what you did. This is part of the skill of repairs that I cannot communicate online. I cannot find it for you.


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## Guest

Icaillo,
As far as the convergence problem goes with the STK's and resistors, heat seems to be the culprit. I read in one of you earlier threads that you don't recommend connecting a fan to the TV's board. I agree that it could be a cause of some type of audio or visual frequency interference with the set or a power issue. Have you ever done a fan and/or do you have any suggestions on hooking up a cooling fan that would turn on and off with turning on or off the TV. Sure seems it would be a benefit to the components.


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## lcaillo

I do not do fans in any sets. My issue is less with interference than with drawing too much current and with the possibility of problems with the connections and wiring. There are external fans that you can find that run based on the temp. I have never had recalls on convergence repairs. Cooling cannot hurt, but there is no reason to wire a fan to the internal circuits of the set.


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## Guest

For lcaillo:

I have replaced some stk392-110 with the formentioned stk394-160 series. I am still having an issue with the convergence drifting a little bit here and there, both red and blue. It is usually a small drift easily corrected in the service menu but thats getting old. Do you know what could be causing this? BTW - The set is a Panasonic PT-53WX42F.


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## lcaillo

Drifting how in terms of what part of the screen, which color, which direction, over what period of time? Is it stable after a period of warm up?


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## Guest

There is no real definate area but it does seem to be the red more often than blue. Once adjusted, its fine for a few days, maybe a week. My wife thinks I being way to picky and wanting an excuse to get a new one but... :dontknow:


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## lcaillo

When are you evaluating it? After how much warm-up? Which direction does it drift? Horizontally, vertically? Always the same, how much? Without more information it is hard to be of help.


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## Guest

Hi, I have a very simple and quite possibly the most dumbest question but I wasn't sure.

The STK394-160E resistors, if I ordered them from TRITRONICS or Vance BALDWIN ELECTRONICS does the Hitachi Kit come with 2? or just 1? Cause I see the price going for $37.65.

I have the same problem as everyone else. (See Pictures Below) My model is Hitachi 53SWX01W and the original resistors are STK392-110.


























Thanks in advance.


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## lcaillo

The kit comes with two STKs, which are the ICs, not resistors. It also comes with a number of resistors. Make sure that you get the right kit for your model television or the resistors may not be the right values.


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## Guest

lcaillo said:


> The kit comes with two STKs, which are the ICs, not resistors. It also comes with a number of resistors. Make sure that you get the right kit for your model television or the resistors may not be the right values.


Ah, thanks for the clarification. And that's what I mean. lol, I'm just not familiar with the terminology. I'm glad I asked the question or else I'll be paying twice as much for 4 when I only need 2.


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## Guest

Hi I have a Hitachi 43FDX01B My picture went out and it was after some convergence issues started. It had been fixed once before by a tv guy for the ususal price. He replaced the 110's with 110's. Well after reading this post I bought the upgrade 160 package that hitachi puts out. It came with some resistors and a nice explanation page (with a good picture) of where the replacements go. bought it here. https://www.ued.net/ued/addItems.do?itemCode=HIPX480301

I put these in and the resistors. I'm not a tv repair man,,, but I think I did ok.
My picture came back on.
The BlUE is way off and I can't move it. 
The picture is bowed down on the top and up on the bottom.
I can't get the convergence to align.
I tried going in the grid. I have the service manual. And my remote.
It's too vague on how to adjust.
Is this an adjustment? I can align? I'd really appreciate any help don't hesitate to e-mail me if you can help. thanks Joe


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## lcaillo

Check your work. If the pix is bowed and you cannot adjust the blue, you likely have a bad connection, missed a resistor, or bridged a solder connection. Sometimes you can have a bad convergence generator module, but this would require some troubleshooting with a scope to isolate.


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## Scuba Steve

Wow, this is really a great and informative thread. The best on the internet, and that is quite a claim!
I have a Toshiba 55h70 that I am in the process of changing out the STK's and I am a little confused about the resistors. I have identified the resistors related to the IC's, R7711, R7721, 
R7116, R7726, R7736, and R7731. The service manual descibes them as "MF, 1.2 ohm, 2W", but I have been told from Techs on other sites that I need 1.8 ohm 1W resistors. The 1.2 ohm 2W resistors are a bugger to find on the internet.
I have already ordered the 1.8 ohm 1watt resistors, will they not work?


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## lcaillo

The service manual shows 1.2ohm. Generally these values are pretty critical. Who told you to use 1.8 and where did the information come from? If it was not from Toshiba it would be very suspect. The difference between the two could cause some pretty drastic linearity changes.

You should be able to get the resistors from several of the suppliers that I have listed in the parts distributor thread like Tritronics or B&D. IIRC the Hitachi kits that have the STK394-160 that I use as an upgrade in these sets mostly come with 1.2 or 1.8 ohm. I will look to see which one does.

edit: It looks like all of the Hitachi kits come with 1.5 or 1.8 ohm resistors. You should still be able to get the 1.2 ohm from most Toshiba or Hitachi authorized distributors.


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## Scuba Steve

OK, I was afraid of that. I am pretty sure I was on Allexperts.com when I read that I needed the 1.8ohm resistor. I have been doing so much research that I can't remember for sure....
I guess I will order from here https://www.vancebaldwin.com/
They are higher than some of the others that I have seen, but at least I know I'm getting the right part this time.
Thanks for all your help!


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## Guest

Update:

So basically, I was fixing my TV today and everything went well except for the soldering part. Some pins when I were to solder it, it wouldn't stick to the board and it would just connect itself to another pin that was already soldered. So I desoldered, soldered and repeated the steps until I was able to get a decent solder. During the process, I heard a few "clicks" and I saw during some of my soldering the board started to bubble a little on the green area.

When I was complete, I placed every cable in the original spot and double checked the connection and when I turned on my TV, there's a green LED light that just clicks and blinks. I think I blew out the board.. Or maybe the IC's that I ordered were bad? or maybe resistors need to be changed? Ugh, this was my first time soldering but I saw/read some tutorials online on how to do it.

Could anyone confirm?


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## lcaillo

You have to go back and check your work. Verify the continuity from the pins to the first connection on each trace. Verify that you have not bridged two pins together. You may have damaged a trace on the board.


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## Guest

Thanks for clarifying Icaillo. I believe I damaged the board somehow. I went to check my work again, tried to solder the ones that were having difficulty trying to stick to the board. All it did was form a solder blob and rolled down to the next solder joining that one. Is there any way to fix the damage board?

I'm thinking I'm going to throw in the towel and stop wasting more hours and money into this DIY project. Does anyone know who takes old TV's ? haha


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## Guest

I have a Mits WS-65857. This problem sometimes happens at startup but will sometimes popup here and there at random times. It does seem that it happens infrequently when the tv has been on awhile. 

Is this a convergence issue (possibly soldering job fix it?)? Roughly, is this an expensive fix or should I look for a replacement if this issue gets worse? Any opinions would be appreciated. Thanks

I have attached two pics of the issue


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## lcaillo

Please start a new thread for each new problem.

If you repair it soon you may just have a bad solder connection. If so, continuing to use the set will eventually often result in damage to the IC or related parts. In some rare situations you can even damage a tube by continued use without repair.


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## Guest

lcaillo, sorry for not starting a new thread but thanks for the information.


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## Krankshaft

Panda said:


> Is there any way to fix the damage board?


Yes take a razor knife and scrape away the solder mask on the trace in question then bend it the lead in question over and solder it directly to the trace if the pin won't reach hook it up with insulated wire.


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## Guest

I'd like to give an update on the dreaded convergence problem on my Hitachi 53UWX10BA.I ordered my parts kit from Andrews Electronics. The Kit came with the amps and resistors AND instructions on which resistors to change out with a layout of the circuit board they were on. Sweet ! De-soldered the old parts,re-soldered the new ones and the TV works like a champ ! I had never tried anything like this before and I'd like to thank Icaillo for all his input into this forum.ALL the comments on this thread were informative and helpful enough to allow a novice like me to attemp this repair. Again, everything went just like these threads led me to believe they would.Thanks again Icaillo,knowledge is wealth and you are a bank my friend !


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## Guest

Thanks for the intersting information. I have A Pioneer SD-643HD5 Rear projection TV and it has a convergence problem. I can not move the red all the way to the right to create the white line. Im guessing based on your information that this is the ic's . Is there a service manual available or a parts breakdown to identify the location of the ic's and resistors? Also I was unable to locate a part number for the Ic's . Could someone please help with the necessary information. 

As a side note. I had a problem about a year ago with the set blowing a fuse when turned on and off quikley. I had it diagnosed as the fuse and the service people replaced it. It blew a couple of hours later. I soldered a piece of wire to either side of the fuse and connected an in line fuse holder with the same size fuse and ran it to the outside of the set. It has not blown in a year. You just have to be carefull not to turn off and on quickley. Im not sure if this could be related. Thanks


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## lcaillo

Please start a new thread for your problem. 

I don't have any service info on that model, so I don't know which chips it uses. I'll see what I can find. Pioneer manuals are ridiculously priced from them, but you can likely find it online for a reasonable price, if not for free. Look in the service manual sticky for some links.


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## Krankshaft

Next time be sure to start your own thread rather then posting in someone elses it makes it alot easier for us to find it.

Your fuse issue could be that the original fuse was a slow blow fuse and the service people installed a fast blow fuse.

As for the inline fuse holder why was that necessary?

Was there a fuse socket there or was it in a leaded (axial) package?

Regardless replacing a fuse without troubleshooting why it blew in the first place is a bad practice.

Anyhow since the TV is functioning and electronics aren't smoking lets leave it at that.

As for your convergence amps this failure is completely normal and has nothing to do with your fuse issue.

The resistors are metal film with a ceramic core and usually are in close proximity to the outputs.


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## lcaillo

Actually, the reason that the fuse blows is usually bad solder connections on the convergence outputs or a failing output IC. Very common in the Pioneers. Actually, bad solder connections are pervasive in most circuits on the pioneer RPTVs.


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## Guest

Thanks for the replys. The reason I did thefuse holder was it kept blowing. Somebody would turn it on and then off. (Grand Daughter and that would caue it to blow. It made it so I didnt have to remove the back panel. It was a slow blow fuse before and I replaced it like for like. 

Where would be the best place to start looking for the bad solder joint? 

Any luck with the parts?


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## lcaillo

Fuses blow for a reason. You should never repeatedly replace fuses without finding the reason that they open. 

Chances are that you have damaged the ICs by continuing to run it in this condition and they need to be replaced. The entire board needs to be inspected for ring cracks in a Pioneer.


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## Guest

Im about to replace the Convergence IC on my Mitsubishi ws-55511 is it better to completely remove the board or is it possible to replace the IC while installed in the projection unit.


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## lcaillo

It depends on the set and how the wires are dressed. IIRC, I usually just pull the chassis out and stand it up on these, removing a few wires to get the slack needed.


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## Guest

Hello,
I have a Samsung HCM5525W, I replaced both Ic's, and when I fired it up I cannot adjust red, and it is bowed along the top and sides. I check and found that I had two burnt resistors, the rz144 and rz145. I replaced those with 2 3.9 ohm 2 watt resistor. When I turned the set back on the red is still not adjustable. When I was removing the IC's i did knick the board a bit, but I bridged the gap I created with a bit of solder. Any advice on what could be causing this problem? Thanks in advance for your help!!

-Warren


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## lcaillo

Open connection, damaged IC, inferior parts quality, bridged solder connection, DCU problem... lots of possibilities, check your work.

Please start a new thread when discussing a new problem.


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## Guest

This may have been asked elsewhere, and I read everything from the first page the third post. I have a Pioneer SD-643HD5 with convergence issues. I am going to replace the ICs on the convergence board. I pulled the board out and found they are the STK392-110's, but I have two STK392-180's. I got them after reading this post:

http://home.earthlink.net/~oleg.filippov/ConvergenceFix.htm

Are these the wrong IC's for this board? Should I reorder and get the 394-160's or will the 392-180's work well enough? Thanks for any help you can provide on this matter.
-Robert

EDIT: Is this the wrong area for this question? Do I need to start a new post for this question? Apologies if I have posted incorrectly.


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## lcaillo

The STK392-180 is perfectly OK as a sub for the STK392-110 IF the manufacturer was actually Sanyo. The important question here is where did you get them and how sure are you that they are not a counterfeit or second quality part?

Yes, you should always start a new thread for a new question. This is the right forum in which to post the question.


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## Guest

wwk3 said:


> Hello,
> I have a Samsung HCM5525W, I replaced both Ic's, and when I fired it up I cannot adjust red, and it is bowed along the top and sides. I check and found that I had two burnt resistors, the rz144 and rz145. I replaced those with 2 3.9 ohm 2 watt resistor. When I turned the set back on the red is still not adjustable. When I was removing the IC's i did knick the board a bit, but I bridged the gap I created with a bit of solder. Any advice on what could be causing this problem? Thanks in advance for your help!!
> 
> -Warren


Hello Warren. I just fixed the convergence on an HCM5525W a few months ago. You need to find the two fuses near the convergence chips. They are solid green in color, and look exactly like resistors, but without the color bands on them. They're both soldered on the board, so you'll have to remove the board from the set. One, or both have failed. These are identified on the under-side of the board as a sine-wave. You can use your ohm meter directly across, and see if you have continuity or not. Their values are printed on them in really fine print. I forget the value myself. They cost a little over a buck each.

Also, I had to replace 6 resistors. If there is any discoloration on the PCB underneath the resistors, you should replace them. Its good practice.

Let me know if you need any more guidance. Good luck!


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## house of payne

I have a Mits 46809 and I was seeing the red ghosting to the right. I read and reread this site and decided to open up the TV and take a look-see. After unplugging the TV and verifying that it wouldn't power on, I took the back off the set and surveyed the layout. I then removed the speaker cover from the front of the set (pulling on the bottom of the cover, gently pop the corners loose and then middle to release the cover) and found the access panel. I opened it and surveyed some more. The number of tiny wires was very intimidating. But after rereading the entire thread, I decided to give the repair a shot.

Starting from the back of the set I was able to immediately find the largest heatsink located in the middle of the TV. I removed the 3 screws along the back side of the black frame. I wasn't able to get the assembly to move until I went around front and found the two black tabs on the front of the frame. Once the tabs were released the entire assembly was able to slide out the back. Wires prevented me from getting it far enough out to look underneath. I was able to tip it up and look but there was no way I was going to be able to solder upside down. I then decided to unplug each of the wires on the left side of the assembly. This allowed me to slide the frame out and flip it over. I was able to position the TV so that I could rest the right side of the assembly (the side with wires still connected) on the back of the TV and the left side of the assembly on my fireplace hearth. This gave me a perfectly level place to solder.

Early Saturday morning I went to Radio Shack to buy the necessary tools and solder. I bought the 25W pencil soldering iron, the recommended desoldering iron with the red bulb, the thinnest 62/36 solder, desolder braid (just in case I made a mess) and the helping hands w/magnifier. The total bill was $48.50.

To start the repair I used the magnifier to look closely at the existing solder points and determined that an end pin was discolored. I decided to start with that one. Two others looked like they were starting to form rings but they looked ok. I plugged in the desoldering iron and after it heated cleaned the solder from the pin. This tool made it a breeze. Now time to solder. After the iron warmed up I touched the solder to the tip to "tin" it. I then touched the iron to the pin and board, waited a couple of seconds, and touched the solder to the base of the pin. There was a bunch of smoke. I got scared and pulled the solder away too quickly. I only covered half of the pin. So, I warmed the pin and solder again, added more solder and got the rest of the pin. I briefly contemplated doing the rest of the pins while I had the TV apart but decided not to attempt it. I'll probably regret not doing this later.

I wanted to test to see if the problem was fixed so I put the board back into the TV, reconnected all the wires, put all wires back into their tie downs, and plugged it in. I waited for smoke and didn't find any. I then reluctantly powered on the TV and again, no smoke. The ultimate test, I went to the convergence menu and found a perfect white plus sign. UNBELIEVABLE, IT WORKS!!! Just for good measure, I decided to reset the convergence to factory settings. I then reconnected all the TV inputs and watched my Tivo'ed World Poker Tour episode. The picture was perfect.

If I can do this repair anyone can. I am a bit of a do-it-yourselfer but by no means a professional handyman. I have replaced a motherboard in a computer but I have never soldered before. The instructions here on this site were enough to get me through the entire repair. If you take your time, you can do it too. If you need tools I have a soldering iron and desoldering iron that were only plugged in once. I also have a spool of solder that is only missing about a quarter inch. I'll sell all three for $20 plus shipping.

Thank you lcaillo! I can't thank you enough for this thread. You saved me $400!!! (that I promptly deposited in Atlantic City)

Sincerely,
Mike


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## lcaillo

Next time, give a little to a more deserving charity. :bigsmile:


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## inn8pwr

Hi All,

A while back I posted to this thread asking for help fixing my projection TV. A pioneer that I don't have the number in front of me right now.

A BIG THANKS to all!

My 13 year old son and I replaced the IC chips with Sanyo parts and the puppy looks great!

The original problem was the base green grid was wavy on the left. The local shop thought that the IC fix wouldn't do it. After much time with you all, the set is now back.

MANY THANKS,

Richard


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## difner

I have a question on my Pioneer elite pro 118 RPTV 

From looking at the forums and other info I believe that my convergence chip is most likey bad
the question i have is i can onlt find one stk chip in the front panel of the tv the chip number is stk4274 is that the convergence chip for this tv and is it the only one.

Here is a link to what the picture looks like http://sheltonfamilyonline.net/tv.jpg
Thanks
Alan


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## lcaillo

This set uses the STK4277L for convergence, which is a 5 channel IC. It uses a single STK4274 which, IIRC, drives the vertical deflection. The convergence IC is under the heat sink.

Be careful to buy the part from one of the distributors in the parts distributor thread, and look for bad solder joints and damaged resistors.


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## difner

Thanks I found the other IC its a big one. All the solder joints look good around the chip but i did find a capacitor I think that had a bad solder joint and i fixed it so hopefully its just a bad chip and not a whole board. Also should I replace both ICs or just the STK4277L one. Do you know if I could buy a whole convergence board or would it cost to much thanks again for the help.
Also Is there a place i can get a service manual online for this tv

Alan


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## lcaillo

I do not replace boards. I doubt that the board is even still available, and might be several hundred dollars if it is. I would change the parts that are bad and any that are suspect. I doubt that the small chip is a problem but I am not there with a scope to test the set.

There are links to places to find service manuals in the useful links thread:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...ps-service-manuals-assorted-useful-links.html


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## Guest

I have a Panasonic PT-65WX50 65" Widescreen RPTV 01-05-2001
The symptoms look and sound the same for requiring replacement of the convergence chips.

The slight difference is that I had the TV recalibrated 5 months ago. The TV was starting to look darker and it had lost some of it focus and clarity over 7 years. I happen to own the service manual.

The first technician sharpened up the picture and convergence, but messed up the pincushion in the process, and refused to come back and fix it.

The second technician managed to make everything perfect. This was not a simple convergence. In both cases various resolution grids were on screen and each point adjusted for RGB.
I also printed alignment grids for the task.

So now I am wondering if I was seeing early signs of chip failure 5 months ago.
I am also wondering if the adjustments we made back then are going to create a need for another lengthy recalibration to adjust for the new chips.
It's that concern that has me calling for the professional, rather than firing up the iron.


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## lcaillo

Generally, when replacing output ICs, you end up needing to do minor convergence adjustment. Major geometry would be rare. If, however, the set was ajdusted with a failing component, it may be that more correction is needed once the parts are replaced. There is no way to tell other than to repair the set and observe.


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## Guest

What a wonderful thread!

I have a Magnavox 51MP392H/17, and the red convergence has died. I checked inside, there are a couple of resistors that are discolored, (along with associated discoloration on the PCB. I was unable to find out if the STK394-160 IC's are drop in replacements for my model, so I ordered the 394-120's, and a bag of resistors, (from one of the recommended suppliers). Now to find a service manual....


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## difner

I installed the new IC on Friday I didnt have any of the thermal grease to put between the chip and heatsink i will get that today but i did hook it all back up and turned the tv on for a few minutes just to test it and it did fix the problem but it was not on for long. after i get the grease for the heatsink i will test it more by watching tv again


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## Guest

DngrMse said:


> What a wonderful thread!
> 
> I have a Magnavox 51MP392H/17, and the red convergence has died. I checked inside, there are a couple of resistors that are discolored, (along with associated discoloration on the PCB. I was unable to find out if the STK394-160 IC's are drop in replacements for my model, so I ordered the 394-120's, and a bag of resistors, (from one of the recommended suppliers). Now to find a service manual....


I found the service manual online, (very inexpensive). While taking things apart, and removing the dead ic's I discovered that one of them had a single 'glob' of heat sink compound...that covered approx 20% of the metal back....and that was the only contact the ic had with the heatsink. It was very thick....and dried out. Replaced both IC's, (I used arctic silver thermal compound), and four 6.8 ohm resistors. Fired it up, worked great, and convergence was dead on.

Question for anyone with a similar set: How long do the crt's last? I read somewhere that 10,000 hours was about all you could expect, and another site simply said years and years. I'm trying to decide if it might be worth looking for some spares, while I don't need them...in anticipation of when I will.


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## Guest

I am new to this Forum and am also a novice in the TV/Electronics area.

I have a Sony KP-65WV700 Rear Projection 65" TV that started to show Convergence problems.
I had a technician take a look at the set and he basically said that it is going to cost at least $550 to replace the IC chips.
He also said that the problem looks like it is probably more than the IC chips, but he cannot confirm until he fixes them first.
He suspects the DCU (Digital Convergent Unit) may also have gone bad because he sees a lot of distortion on the top and bottom of the screen.
That would cost me another $500, if it happens to be the case.
All in all, it is going to be at least $550 and at worst $1100.

There is no reason to suspect him because he also said that it is in my best interest to start looking for a new TV instead of spending on repairs.

Having said all that, I thought that I should probably try to repair it myself (after reading this forum) before I throw the TV out.
I have got nothing to lose - correct?

I understand most of the things said here in this forum, but would like to know where to start exactly.
Where would I find what IC chips I need exactly and if I need any other resistors or fuses and what kind?
What other tools do I need in order to do this?

Can somone please be kind enough to guide me through?


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## lcaillo

Start by reading the first 10 posts in this thread.


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## nouseforaname

Hello there. Thanks for your advice about the convergence. It's impressing how someone is detailed about the information they speak of so I appreciate it. I do have a question though. I recently purchased a Mitsubishi WS-55909 and I have no idea if the convergence is bad or not. I have to get it working first by the DM Module. But if the convergence is bad, what IC should I be getting for this set? I tried looking at what the IC looks like in the back of the tv but a mirror and light didn't really help. I'm just being cautious for the future or if the tv convergence is bad when I get it working.


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## lcaillo

You usually have to take the heat sink clip off of the Mitsubishi convergence ICs to see what they are. What makes you think that the DM is bad? 

Please start a new thread for each set, and give details about the methods and findings of any diagnosis.


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## nouseforaname

You're right but since I'm new, I don't think I ca yet. The DM module is bad as the seller who sold me the tv set said this. They had it checked out by a service person and said it's the DM module. So I'm just going to repair it myself from the steps at HDTVoice. I don't really know if the convergence is messed up because it hasn't powered on yet. But if it is, I will follow your steps and repair it myself. I just see this talk about resistors and fuses and have no clue which resistors or fuses to replace if I replace the IC's. Sorry if this is off subject though. I'd just like to know because I followed a link to another site and it was selling two STK IC's, STK392-180 and STK392-180/O. The one with the "/O" is more expensive. I don't understand any of these terms so if possible, correct me, help me out if you can. Once again, sorry if this is the wrong place to post this. I'm just curious about the convergence issue if my set has one.


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## lcaillo

Look in the parts supplier thread for reliable distributors. There are lots of bad parts out there. If you want real information you have to be specific by giving details like the name of the distributor and the details of what the set is doing. Are you getting the flashing LED or is the set dead? 

I suspect the "/O" means original, as in original Sanyo part, but this is likely specific to the vendor, and you did not give that information.

There is no way to know if you have a convergence issue until you determine what the other problems are. Regardless please start a new thread.


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## nouseforaname

Alright. I installed the capacitors and my tv actually went on. I'm so glad. The convergence was off a tiny bit. Blue and red are perfect. I'm just concerned about the green. It looks off a little. What could that be?


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## lcaillo

Capacitors? After repair, it is typical to have to do some alignment. The green must be adjusted in the service menu. The red and blue can be touched up in the consumer menu.


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## nouseforaname

Yeah, I had to get it working, remember? My tv's working now and like I said the blue and red are perfect. The green could be fixed but I don't know how to get to it. How do I fix it myself? How do I get to the service menu? I should look this up. Thanks.


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## lcaillo

Ah, the DM caps. If you are going to do service level convergence, I suggest getting a copy of the manual so that you at least know where the adjustments are.


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## nouseforaname

I have the manual that came with the tv, I'm not sure if that's considered the service manual or not. Maybe it's just my eyes acting up on me but I'm not really sure. Where it shows the channel and if it's 480i or not, it's yellow originally but the green is coming off from the left of the words. I'd take a picture but I know it won't come out correctly. Maybe it's fine and I'm making a bigger deal of things.


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## lcaillo

What you have is the user manual and it will help you find the user level convergence which may be adequate. You will have to adjust the red and blue to match the green, however, as the green is fix at the consumer level adjustment.


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## nouseforaname

So what I have to find is the service manual, the one with all the codes as to if the led light starts blinking by code. I'd have to buy this manual? That's kind of odd how they never gave that away with the tv. I guess that's how the sellers would make money so when the tv does fail, the consumer wouldn't know how to repair it themselves.


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## lcaillo

It is not odd at all these days. A couple of decades ago manufacturers often included schematics with the set, but even then they never provided service training info. If you look you may find the manual online for free, or you may have to pay for it. Regardless, you can still complete a repair like this for under $100 even if you have to buy the manual and some tools. You are getting a lot of help for free. Never before has so much information been so readily available for novices to attempt such repairs.


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## cwilliamrose

lcaillo,

First, thanks for this forum and your effort to help people. I'm sure many would junk their old sets and buy a new one faced with an expensive repair. We are looking to replace ours with an LCD when the prices come down, in the mean time our old set should be good for a few more years.

We have a Mits WS65819 bought new about seven years ago. We had it professionally calibrated four years ago. About two months ago it started going out of convergence calibration after the set was on for a few minutes. It didn’t creep out of adjustment, it was digital – perfect or way off. At first a simple power off and on would bring it back. As time went on it took less time to develop the problem and more time before it could be "corrected". Sometimes it would correct itself.

These symptoms told me there were probably bad solder joints, but where? A search on the internet led me to several forums where my exact problem was being discussed. So I knew it was the convergence IC's. I also read that it's not wise to just repair damaged solder joints -- if the chips finally do fail they could take other components with them. I decided to replace the IC's. I felt I would find no bad resistors or fuses since the TV could operate normally for long periods of time once everything was up to temperature.

This is where I made a mistake. I hadn't found this forum yet, but the common wisdom was to buy Sanyo chips from a reliable vendor. Instead, I saved a few bucks and bought from Bluestar International. I also bought some 5A pico fuses just in case. Good thing I did.

I removed the main board and found ring cracks around most of the IC's pins. I was sure they were the cause of the in and out convergence problem. Since I had the new parts and I was reluctant to just re-flow the joints, I removed the old chips, cleaned everything up and inspected the board. Everything else looked good, no coolant leaks, burned resistors, etc. I carefully soldered in the new IC's and other than having a little trouble wetting the pins, it went pretty well. I reinstalled everything and fired it up. Rats!

The set powered up for two seconds, then shut off. I tried it again -- same result. Out comes the board and I inspect my work with a magnifier, not just reading glasses. I found no bridged joints, only a few joints that looked less than perfect. I carefully re-flowed those and checked the fuses. One was blown and I replaced it. Back in with the board, everything connected and checked. Fire it up -- same result, on for two seconds, then shut down. I stop working on it. I put the covers on to keep the cats out and I thought about what it could be that caused a problem beyond what I had to begin with. I figured I either trashed the board by working too long trying to wet those pins or I had bad parts. Trusting my soldering more than my cheap IC's, I ordered new IC's from MCM and waited. I got the parts and pulled the board. I went through the same removal and inspection process as I had done the week before. The board looked fine but that same fuse was blown again (no surprise since I didn't really "fix" anything since the first time it blew).

I did tin the pins on the new IC's before installation and that was a wise move. I believe they were tinned with lead-free solder and having them out and wiped with flux made it very easy to get a good base of solder on the pins. I did the installation as before, replaced the fuse and re-installed the board. This was going to be the last time I did this, I was going to call for help if this didn't work. Turn on the TV and wait two seconds, three seconds, four five six,,, It works! Bad Parts!! I knew it!!!

I got good advice and didn't heed it. My bad. Buy from a known good source. It's not the money, it's the lost time and the potential to damage what wasn't damaged to begin with. To their credit, Bluestar was glad I contacted them about my experience and apologized for the problems. They told me they had not had any reports of problems and mine was likely an isolated case. They told me to expect a full refund by tomorrow.

So, my masterfully calibrated TV is working but it's obviously out of calibration, it looked out of focus but I hadn’t looked at the convergence yet. I never attempted to adjust out my original problem but I wasn't surprised it had changed with the new parts. I did about 10 minutes worth of adjustments with the user level convergence menu and got it much better. I know the TV wasn't warmed up fully (maybe 30 minutes) and the parts were brand new. It's been used about 20 hours now and I will do another round of adjustments after a two hour warm up. I think it will be fine after that.

Would you expect anything else to be off with the new parts? I noticed some distortion in the very lower left corner but I need to do a full look with the calibration disk to see if anything else is visible. Could it be that that corner was sacrificed for the rest of the adjustments during calibration?

Thanks again lcaillo for this great service. .........Bill


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## lcaillo

The biggest source of variance when changing parts is actually wire dress. You need to verify that all of the wires are tied down as they were before, or at least secured and not near high voltage, deflection wires, nor heat sinks. Then you can do convergence and focus. You will need to start from scratch and do it from the service menu if you want to do it correctly. Make sure no controls are adjusted to extremes.

Your experience is exactly why I created the thread. Even lots of professionals have benefited from the info here and avoided the wasted time that comes with bad parts. I have seen too many people go this route, both in the DIY world and among professionals. Thanks for your comments and glad to help.

The sad truth is that you got bad advice when you were told not to just resolder the chips. Virtually all of the convergence repairs I do on these sets have been just resoldering them. If you catch them early enough there is not a problem. Also, the most common parts to go in addition to the chips are just the pico fuses. These sets almost never eat resistors nor power supply regulators like some might. The sets are pretty well protected so that when a supply drops (or increases) it will go into shutdown to protect from such damage.


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## cwilliamrose

I was afraid I hadn't caught it early enough since we had suffered with the problem for a couple of months. If I had visited here first, I may not have been so quick to swap them out. I was getting a perfect picture when it wasn't in it's failed mode. 

I still have the original chips and have marked to cheapo's as suspect. I should probably just throw the cheapo's away, why would I want to see them installed again -- ever?

I did more than the required disassembly the first time I removed the board. I slid the tray out a few inches to improve access to the fasteners. That wasn't necessary on my TV and the last two times I removed the board I just used different tools instead of moving the tray. I did carefully replace any wires I had removed from their ties. 

As for service menu adjustments, is focus and convergence the extent of what I'll need to do? I'll need a service manual as well. Not knowing all the pitfalls makes me wonder if I should go there. I don't know anyone locally (Ft. Myers, FL) that does calibrations, Craig at MG Home Theater brought his RV to town in 2004. It took him 7 hours and he had screen templates for geometry adjustments, etc. I don't mind spending some time doing it if I can really improve it beyond where the customer menus go. I don't expect to get it back to where Craig had it. 

...........Bill


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## lcaillo

If you have not messed with the focus you probably don't need to do it. If you are not confident in what you are doing you should stay out of the service menu. I don't have any trips that way scheduled now, but I may in the near future and I could calibrate it for you. Stay in touch.


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## cwilliamrose

I worked on the convergence last night and got it pretty good except the extreme edges where things seem to get a little difficult. Also, looking at the Avia DVD's overscan screen and grids, I notice the images are shifted left -- or maybe stretched left. I didn't measure to center to see if the whole thing is off or just the left side. I also noticed some areas that look like they have focus issues, kind of like what you'd see if a camera lens had some smudges here and there. Maybe I could post some photos if it would help, or maybe this belongs in a different (new?) thread.

I may take you up on the calibration offer. Craig Miller was to do a touch up after two years but I think he had stopped traveling by then. I'm sure it's due.

Thanks again, 

Bill


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## AAjax

Hi,
Quick question, I have a JVC av 48wp30 that Im going to do a IC swap on, however my main question is about the rear panel sensor. I did remove the rear panel to inspect the unit, however it was unpluged durring this inspection. My question is, did I hose my TV by doing this? I would never open up a unit while powered but I have read conflicting information as to this "feature" on my unit with some saying it should be OK with the power being unplugged while others outloooks are not so bright. 
Secondly would you recomend the 160 unit as a replacement for the 110 stk's in this unit?

In any case, thank you for your post as this is a great resource.

Jax


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## lcaillo

You should be fine, but considering how flaky JVC is, no gaurantees. They may have the thing designed to electrocute you if you remove the screws in the wrong order.:coocoo:


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## AAjax

lcaillo said:


> You should be fine, but considering how flaky JVC is, no gaurantees. They may have the thing designed to electrocute you if you remove the screws in the wrong order.:coocoo:


Yeah, no doubt JVC was rather devious on this "feature" Thanks for your reply.


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## Guest

*Re: Diagnosing the problem*

Thanks for providing such a great resource.
My TV woke up with a headache. Convergence is suddenly way off, all colors, with curved picture. So I think it's not a problem with the 6 individual ICs, but whatever "master controller" drives or powers them. Any ideas on what to look for? It's a 2002 SONY KP65WV700 CRT RPTV. 

Newbies like me can't post URLs, so I can't show the picture. But the picture is curved, with exaggerated convergence at the edges. Blue and Red are about 8" apart at the screen edges. Picture is perfect in the center of the screen.

Adjusting the convergence crosses (manual convergence) has no effect - they don't move, and the built-in auto-focus starts and then aborts in a few seconds. 
Thanks!
Chris


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## lcaillo

Bad convergence IC, bad solder connection, open fuse, or some combination of these. Read the first 10 posts carefully.


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## Guest

I have a panasonic HD RPTV: model #PT-51HX42F

Due to convergence problems, i have taken your suggestion to replace the convergence ICs. The original chips were STK392-110. For this model tv, would you recommend replacing with the same chip, or upgrading to the STK394-160?

Also, if I use the same model chip, does the manufacturer matter? I checked the tritronics site and they have a Panasonic brand STK392-110 for ~$51 and a Sanyo brand STK392-110 for ~$16. Is there a difference and what would you recommend?

Thanks in advance


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## lcaillo

Read the first 10 posts at the top of this thread.


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## Guest

Thanks, I did read all those posts. I wasn't sure if you recommended the STK394-160 as a replacement for the STK392-110 for all TVs (I know you said most) and/or whether the Sanyo brand was equal/superior to TV manufacturer brand in all cases (and specifically in the Panasonic case). Is there a chance in my case that the STK394-160 would NOT work as a replacement or the SanyoSTK392-110 would not work?


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## lcaillo

There is always a chance, but I have not run into a situation where the STK394-160 would not replace the STK392-110. The -110 chip should always be upgraded to at least the STK392-150, but I never bother with those. I have used the -160 in the Panasonics and had no problems. You shold be aware, however, that there are other issues with the Panasonics that can be a challenge to service. Be careful.

It is very important to use a good supplier for the parts! ALL of the manufacturers use Sanyo chips. The danger is some cheap copies or seconds that get into the market. When you buy through the TV makers you are more likely to get first quality parts. In the case of the -160, they have only been available in the Hitachi kits for a long time, though some form of them are starting to show up elsewhere. I do not know if they are first qualtiy original Sanyo chips or not, so I just buy them in the Hitachi kits. It is a little more expensive, but I know I am getting good parts.


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## Guest

Thanks for the info:

How do you feel about the STK394-160's from this link at tritronics:

http://www.tritronicsinc.com/storef...ion=prepare_detail&itm_id=3650462&itm_index=0

And can you elaborate on what the other issues are with servicing Panasonics - do they relate to the convergence?

Thanks.


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## lcaillo

I do not use the TT version of the STKs from Tritronics. The source is uncertain. Just buy one of the Hitachi kits. They have two ICs and a bunch of resistors that you will not likely need, but you know you are getting first quality parts.


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## Guest

I'm confused: the link I posted to Tritronics lists the parts as: SANYO ORIGINAL IC STK394-160

Is that not OK?

They also have a TT version, but that is a different, cheaper component.

I'm having trouble finding Hitachi kits on any of the websites of the parts distributors that you have listed. If you think this is the best option, can you give me a link to one I can buy?

Thanks again.


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## lcaillo

I was just warning that I do not trust the TT parts. The part numbers for the kits that I list in the parts post are the numbers that we use to buy them all the time. Just got a couple in from TriTronics a couple of days ago. Just check stock by those part numbers at any of the Hitachi distributors. Vance Baldwin is another good one, as is Andrews.


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## Guest

I checked those Hitachi Kits at the sites like Titronics, Andrews and Vance. Titronics is the only site that lists the contents of the kits, and none of them have the STK394-160, they seem to use the STK392-150. The other sites don't list the kit contents. Any suggestions as to which kit from which distributor will have the 394-160?


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## lcaillo

Like I said, we buy them all the time from TriTronics, and all of the kits they have now have the -160. Hithachi originally upgraded the STK392-110 to the STK392-150, then later to the STK394-160. TriTronics sold through the old kits long ago as far as I know. If you are in doubt, call them and ask.


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## Guest

I just called them and they said all their kits come with the 392-150's. They sell the 394-160s separately (that was the link I posted originally), but supposedly not in any kits...little confused here. Does it matter, or should I just get the kit and use whatever comes in it?


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## lcaillo

Called who? Tritronics? Like I said, we order them all the time. Haven't received a -150 in over a year.


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## Guest

Thank you for so much information. I have followed your advice and bought a Sony replacement "kit" STK394-160 to upgrade the original STK392-110's I have in my Toshiba HD TV. I have the set pulled apart and find the IC's sandwiched between the heat sink and a soldered in vertical card. There is no room to remove the screws from the IC's. Only approximately 1/2 inch clearance in front of the screws. I would hate to unsolder that entire vertical card. Do you have any advice for me??

Thanks!


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## lcaillo

Remove the heat sinks. Be sure to resolder all of the joints on that board with ring cracks.


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## Guest

Thanks for all of your help!


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## Dave610

Icaillo,

I've just joined the forum, and I must say this thread has been the most informative I've found so far - thank you for all the info you've provided at the start.

The vertical convergence of the blue on my Pioneer Elite Pro610HD just went, resulting in a large, sweeping "wave" of blue along the bottom of the screen. After researching many forums, I've come to the conclusion the one of the STK's has gone bad, or a bad solder joint (well aware of Pioneer problems, I fixed the power supply a long time ago)

What would you recommend for STK392-110 replacement on this particular model? Some sites say STK 392-150, yours recommends STK394-160, which seems to be hard to find on the companies listed on the distributors thread.

I'm pulling the conv. block tomorrow to check for obvious problems, may have to get resistors and pIco fuses as well as the STK's ( I'm hoping just bad solder), do you recommend a place that has it all, perhaps a kit? Thank you for your help.


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## lcaillo

Please start a new thread to discuss each new problem.

I use the STK394-160 in that set.


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## Dave610

Thanks lcaillo, I'll order these and let you know how it works out. Wish these were available locally. Guess I'll have to watch the set as-is for now, even if I went the in-house repair route, there's a 2-week wait to even have it looked at. Sigh...


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## Guest

It appears that I now have an IC problem as my Pioneer 52"RPTV has the arch at bottom of screen and ghost image. The red & blue lines move on the convergence setup but the center line appears short on the bottom so I assuming it's the green that has the problem. One question though - for several months before this happened, occasionally (once every couple hours or so, if left on continuously) the TV would "pop" and the screen would go blank (audio also) and within 1-2 seconds it would come back on. Would this be a resistor problem?


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## lcaillo

Not sure, but I would check them when you have the set apart to change the ICs. You could also have the common problem with bad solder joints on the power supply board.


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## Dave610

Winger58 said:


> One question though - for several months before this happened, occasionally (once every couple hours or so, if left on continuously) the TV would "pop" and the screen would go blank (audio also) and within 1-2 seconds it would come back on. Would this be a resistor problem?


I would most definitely check the power supply board for bad solder, and re-solder if necessary, along with what lcaillo suggests about the IC's & resistors on the convergence board.

There is an extremely long, but informative thread about blue flash/shutdown problems on Pioneers, titled "Pioneer Elite Pro-510 problem" in the 'Rear projection Units' forum at www.avsforum.com. My Pro 610 started exhibiting these blue flashes/bright screen problems (although it never shut down) about 3 years ago, I immediately re-soldered the power supply, and haven't had a problem since. (except for recent convergence chip replacement) Note that you will have to dig deep into that thread to get specific info about the DIY repairs.

Do not run the set any longer in this condition! Turn it off and make the repairs now, before further damage can occur.


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## Guest

My first post here and let me begin it by thanking lcaillo! 

I had a workmate who just got given a Hitachi 61UDX10B for FREE, but only because it had issues that turned out to be the bad IC chips/resistors. I did some research for him and wound up here, and was amazed to find out what a common issue this was, and the fact that I would be able to _possibly_pull this off for my friend really had me excited... 

Anyways, his set had the 110's in it, and the set was exhibiting a terrible bow in the blue color, and when doing magic focus, blue wouldn't even appear... So, I pulled out the board and got to work... I was building up speed by the time I got to desoldering the second chip, and all said and done I consider the repair somewhat easy. Got the 160 chip kit with resistors from Andrews, and replaced both chips and all included resistors. We put it all back together, closed it up, and turned on the set with bated breath and EUREKA!!! A perfectly functioning TV!!! 

So, to conclude, thank you lcaillo! :hail:


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## Guest

- moved to pioneer


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## lcaillo

Please post your question in the Pioneer forum as a new thread. Note that someone posted a very similar question about Pioneer earlier today and I responded to it. I will review your post once it is in the proper location.


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## kcsmilak

I just want to say thank you to lcaillo for this extremely informative thread. I have a Hitachi 53FDX20B and was able to do this repair on my own using Kit 9 from B&D. I actually replaced the two ICs 9 months ago and then recently the convergence went out again. I replaced the ICs again last week but it didn't work initially. After rereading this thread, I double checked all the solder points and replaced a few resistors. I would not have known what resistors to check if it weren't for the diagram in this thread. At this point, everything in HD works great but some of the lower resolutions still are out of alignment. However, I think that's my fault for manually adjusting the convergence and getting the factory settings out of whack. When I try to adjust the individual scan lines, it seems impossible to get it straight and so a section of it is wavy. Regardless, since I watch HD most of the time and that seems OK, it's not a big issue. In particular since I'll probably upgrade to a flat panel sometime next year. For now it can definitely get me by.

Thanks again. It's a life saver and was fun at the same time.


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## Guest

First off, great thread, lcaillo! I've been doing research to fix a friend's TV, and I found this. Very informative!

Anyways, I had a question about using STK394-160 in place of STK392-110. My friend did a lot of research on this problem after he got a quote from a technician dollarsign::dollarsign::dollarsign and found many people suggesting the switch to the newer chip. When he gave me the details of the job, he said he found info that said the new chip uses _different_ resistor values. I was skeptical, and since you didn't mention that in here, I'm pretty doubtful. All the resistors are metered as good, and I can't find _anything_ about changing the values. I think he misinterpreted something about changing bad ones.

So, my question is: does the STK394-160 require different resistance, generally speaking, or does it have the same impedance values as the STK392-110? Thanks!


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## lcaillo

Please provide specific information when asking a question or posting information. Without the exact model number of the set, it is impossible to answer your question. I have heard of some techs claiming that resistors needed to be changed in some models. I have not found that on the ones that I have done. I can tell you what I know about your model if I have that info.

Also, please start a new thread in the proper manufacturer's forum, if it exists, or here if not. Include the model number and as much about your problem and what you have done to diagnose it as possible. Things like the dollar signs are not very useful to others. It would be helpful to know who did the estimate, whether they were factory authorized or not, exactly what they diagnosed, and how much they estimated for parts and labor. Did the servicer specify the original part or a replacement?


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## Guest

Ok. It's a JVC AV56WP74. I'll post details on the JVC forum. I just thought that you might be able to answer based solely on the chips and your experiences with them, since I would have thought if they work in one set, they'll work in another.


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## Guest

Hello...I originally posted this in an audio forum and was refered here.

I'm buying a 50" projection TV off craigs list for next to nothing - guy says it has a slight color issue (I will find out how slight later when I see it - could be nothing, or nothing I cant live with - I dont know yet) but other then that its in tip-top shape as I understand it.

Now, I've opened up a few analog/standard TV's and if memory serves me correctly there is usually some kind of fine tuning screws/knobs for color adjustment (besides the color adjustment knobs outside the TV) that are inside the TV that can be played with. I dont know anything about projection TV's this will be my first, can someone tell me if there are any sort of fine tuning (tuners - screws) that can adjust the color from withinside the projection TV itself? I beleive the guy told me its a magnavox brand TV.










[edit to add] If I cant fix it, ballpark what or how much would repair cost be?


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## lcaillo

Without knowing the model of the set and some evaluation of the problem, it is impossible to say. Post the details in a new thread in the proper manufacturer's forum when you get it and maybe we can help. You will have to be specific, and you will need to read any threads related to your problem carefully if you expect to be ale to get any useful information.


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## Guest

Alright, I replaced a couple bad Pico fuses and the IC chips in my Sony 46" tv. When replacing one of the chips we were unable to make a solder connection on one of the pins. The area around the hole was brown while the board is green. I currently do not have control of the Red convergence horizontally. Did we ruin the board or do we need to try harder on getting the solder to stick?


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## lcaillo

There is no way to know with this little information.

You will need to bridge the connection from the trace that remains to the pin. If you use it with a pin not connected, you may or may have damaged the IC. 

Please start a new thread in the Sony forum and include the details such as the model of the set, the chips used, the vendor, and how much you paid, everything you checked in the circuit, the pin number and which chip, etc. Others may find the information useful and you may get some specific help.


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## fordman1

Hi I have a Hitachi 46F500 with chassis model DP23F that need a convergence repair and looking for the best kit for my model ?


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## lcaillo

Hitachi does not have a kit specifically for this chassis. Just use any of the Hitachi kits but don't assume that the resistors are the same. Use the chips and check the resistors, especially RK42, RK46, RK50, RK54, RK58, & RK62. Replace them with the same value that is in the set if open or thermally damaged.


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## 82280zx

I just wanted to stop in and say thank you for all this wonderful guide and all the help you have provided me with Icaillo, your a life saver. I replaced my convergence chips and 2 fuses and my tv came back to life. I guess I do have a few last questions, any idea how long (generaly) that life span of the tubes are (It's just more or less curiosity not a big deal on this question)? I'm worried where the tv is a little old that it might leak coolant on my board someday (no signs of leakage yet) and I have noticed very slightly burns in my picture from when my parents used to watch the news all week (not very noticable but I can see em). Another question I have is that I noticed my horizontal seems a bit to the left (cutting off the video a little) or seems to be stretched a little to big so my picture isn't fitting into the screen correctly, Is this a correction I can do myself? Or does a tech need to put a scope on it? And where it looks like you do this kinda work Icaillo do you guys bring scopes to peoples homes to adjust there sets or is the equipment to big to carry around? And if you guys do what do you generaly charge to adjust sets (Just so I have an idea of what I might be looking at if I call a tech)? Once again thanks for all the help I was stoked to see the tv come back to life and so far I haven't had any problems with it, it's staying on =) . Thanks again I couldn't of done it without your guide or these forums.


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## Guest

Just wanted to thank you for this thread and your help. I finally got my Sony back up and running. Had to pull the boards back out several times but got it fixed finally. Had to replace both IC, 2 fuses on the power supply board got my blue and green working with that. Then found one more bad fuse on the Red high on the convergence board. Thanks for answering all my question you saved me alot of money and frustration.


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## lcaillo

82280zx said:


> I just wanted to stop in and say thank you for all this wonderful guide and all the help you have provided me with Icaillo, your a life saver. I replaced my convergence chips and 2 fuses and my tv came back to life. I guess I do have a few last questions, any idea how long (generaly) that life span of the tubes are (It's just more or less curiosity not a big deal on this question)? I'm worried where the tv is a little old that it might leak coolant on my board someday (no signs of leakage yet) and I have noticed very slightly burns in my picture from when my parents used to watch the news all week (not very noticable but I can see em). Another question I have is that I noticed my horizontal seems a bit to the left (cutting off the video a little) or seems to be stretched a little to big so my picture isn't fitting into the screen correctly, Is this a correction I can do myself? Or does a tech need to put a scope on it? And where it looks like you do this kinda work Icaillo do you guys bring scopes to peoples homes to adjust there sets or is the equipment to big to carry around? And if you guys do what do you generaly charge to adjust sets (Just so I have an idea of what I might be looking at if I call a tech)? Once again thanks for all the help I was stoked to see the tv come back to life and so far I haven't had any problems with it, it's staying on =) . Thanks again I couldn't of done it without your guide or these forums.


Coolant leaks are more or less likely to occur depending on the brand and model. Geometry and position can be corrected but you will need to go into the service mode and I suggest getting the manuals before trying it. They at least provide some reference to what controls do, but they do not provide step by step directions. A scope is usually not needed unless doing more detailed troubleshooting. I have a USB scope that I can use with my computer that I carry to look for some signals, but my larger, wide bandwidth scope stays at the shop. 

Charges for adjustment vary greatly, as do the skills of techs. If you want geometry, convergence, gray scale, and other performance related adjustments, I suggest you find a calibration specialist, not a service tech. Likely cost is around $300, but will vary.

Thanks for the thanks.


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## duner

just a note to thank Icaillo for providing the forum with a resourse of immeasurable value. also a note on troublshooting that hasn't been addressed during this post. i first happened on this site when researching hitachi 53uwx10b convergence issues and proceeded to make the needed IC repairs. all went well and the set returned to normal for a short while then failed again, same issues. before replacing the IC's a second time i discovered the wiring to the wall recepticle had loosened over the years and had been arcing unnoticeably causing who knows what kinds of spikes on the line. after repairing wiring to the recepticle and replacing the IC's and resistors a second time the set has worked well ever since. again, thanks. 
P.S. does anyone have a favorite supplier for the tech manual for this set?


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## zymurgy7625

lcaillo, thanks so much for offering up all of your expertise. By reading your postings now I know what my so called service tech did wrong, and am confident that I can fix it myself. I have a Panasonic 51hx43 that had the stk392-110's in it. I am replacing both with the stk394-160e's that you recommend. I have ordered the service manual for my set but have not received it yet, which brings me to my question. In a posting here I read that you recommend replacing the six 2.2 ohm resistors. Is that six resistors per IC, or six total? Like I said, I don't have my service manual yet, but when looking at the board it appears that there are six per IC for a total of twelve. Thanks again for the great information and your support of Scouting.


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## lcaillo

Some techs have reported problems using the -160 in the panasonics, so I have gone back to using the original parts in those sets.

I do not recommend replacing resistors unless they are damaged or open. I do not recall which resistors are in each model, so check the manual or look at the board.


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## zymurgy7625

lcaillo, when you say some techs have reported problems putting -160's in panasonics what does that mean? They never work,sometimes work,etc? I've received my manual and have figured out the resistor question, there are six. Thanks again for all your help and patience.


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## lcaillo

I mean exactly what I said. Some have reported problems using the -160. I do not know the details beyond that, but when otherwise qualified techs tell me that they have found that in some models they did not work as expected, I don't take chances and I use the original parts. Apparently there may be something different in how the muting circuit operates between the two chips in some applications. I have not experienced the problem myself, but I don't take chances with substitute parts. When there is any doubt, use the same part that came out of the set. In the case of Panasonics that is what I recommend.


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## zymurgy7625

lcaillo, I followed your directions on replacing the ic's on my panasonic with the original stk392-110's instead of the 394-160's. Powered up the set and ran through the converge process in the standard "consumer" menu, and presto, it's perfect! I seem to remember a post in this thread that if you don't go into the service menus you could end up running the chips too close to thier tolerances by over adjusting. Should I leave well enough alone, or get into service mode? Thanks again for all that you do.


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## lcaillo

If you don't feel you need to adjust it, don't go into the service mode. If you do make sure you have the service manual handy and review it before you start.


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## mrgcav

Even if you got the parts, unless you have the experience & equipment setting and up a TV, it will do you no good. IT is not "plug and play.
Do you have a test pattern generator ???
Do you know how to set: Raster, tracking levels, Focus, Centering rings, Fine tune convergence, White balance, Dioptics ?
Also what proper order to do them in ???
Even a service manual will not tell you all you need.

Oh and lets not forget their is over 30,000 volts stored in a TV for up to a year. Do you know what not to touch ???
You get ONE attempt to it correct.


Note: What you read on the Internet is only a guess. You guess at you own expense and risk.
A dealer assumes that risk for you and provides a warranty.


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## mrgcav

Leonard Caillouet,
Sir, encouraging amateurs to do the work of trained professionals is unethical in any profession.
YOU DO NOT EXPLAIN the risks they undertake.
Electricity is dangerous.
Also, Times are tough enough for professionals to stay in business. You do them a great disservice and since you seem to be a professional you acts are counter productive, verging on traitorous, to your own profession.
Despite your terms of service... Sooner or later someone following the "advice" you provide will get injured. Especially in the Case of CRT TV's which are potentially lethal.
* I only hope you are held responsible when someone gets injured.*

IF you wish to work for free, then do so. Professionals take years to train and learn trade "secrets". 
These honorable men & Women have a right to be paid for their valuable skills. You give away their secrets that allow this.
DIY's who are inexperienced are a danger to themselves in effort to save a few dollars. Then usually it is a professional who has to clean up the mess and then fix the original problem.

You sir have no honor and are a sellout. If you had a conscience, you would stop this practice and remove this website.

PEOPLE, Do not be cheap. BE safe. Support your local electronic professional.

Unions built this country.

Professionals Union of America


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## lcaillo

If you would like to discuss the matter I am happy to do so. I know very well what the risks are, and being cautious is certainly important. The point is that many people ARE attempting these repairs themselves, with or without your or my advice. I simply give people accurate information and they can decide for themselves whether they feel confident to proceed. If you read through the forums, you will see that I am very specific in providing limited assistance for simple symptom-repair relationships that are well known. I recommend all the time that readers get professional help.

The part that many who criticize this help fail to understand is that many "professionals" know less about some of these matters than many of the DIYers here and on other forums. The notion of a "professional" is a rather sketchy one, and in many areas there is not a single tech that I would let touch anything of mine.

There is value in your advice, but do not come here expecting to preach without being challenged to discuss the matter in the context which it belongs. You are welcome to your opinion and to state it. You will, however, do so without being disrespectful and condescending.


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## mrgcav

I expected such a response. A response that soothes your "conscience".
DIY's have always existed. But providing them trade Secrets & information only encourages more of them and makes the fool hearty ones brave.
I have read your posts. You do not mention the hazards or how to work safe. You also rarely tell a viewer to call a professional when it is obvious they are in over their head.

*YOU encouraged on viewer to repair a TV when the viewer did not know enough (had to ask you) not to power up a TV with missing parts !*

Common sense says...You do not tell someone how to build a bomb either. (but your type might). Just as dangerous and just as lethal. IE: Information in the wrong hands is not a good thing.
Even though I can read about how to do it. Personally I would never attempt to remove my own appendix. Thats why we have doctors.. But then...Maybe you would.

I do not "preach" I said what you do not.
I was not being disrespectful. I was being honest.
I respect established ethics and people who abide by them.

SAD but only after someone gets hurt and sues you. MAYBE then you will wake up.
Good day.


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## lcaillo

Obviously, you have not read many posts where I have suggested that the user get professional help.

I do accept the criticism that I could emphasize the dangers of servicing electronics and could offer more suggestions on safety. My guess is that rather than offering suggestions on how to integrate this information into the forum, you will continue to hold the opinion that the information whould not exist. This is simply not an option, so if you do have some constructive suggestions on how to make it clearer what the dangers are, please contribute.

There have always been DIYers. In fact, they have existed in cooperation with servicers for decades. The fact is that many "pros" got their start as DIYers or hobbyists, and that much of the innovation in the consumer electronics industy, much of the demand for higher performance products, and much of the sales of new technologies is driven by these DIYers that many servicers so despise. 

I recognize that many shops are struggling these days and many servicers are finding it harder and harder to be profitable. The rest of the story is that it is rare to find quality servicers who are very customer friendly or reasonably priced in many markets. There are lots of what I consider to be unethical servicers in our profession and the rather poor reputation that he field has at this point is, in many cases, well deserved.

The notion that I am providing trade secrets is simply a faulty one. Nothing that I provide is not clearly and easily found in many other places and I do not pass on proprietary information such as service manuals, service bulletins, service tips from subscription sites, nor copyrighted information that is not appropriate for public use. What I have done is provide a context and organization where people can find information on how to do correctly what is often discussed on other sites in ways than can be dangerous, sloppy, or ineffective. I dispell many misconceptions and give advice based on my knowledge and experience that helps those who are unlikely to go to a professional for many valid reasons.

You are not the first to call me a traitor to the profession. I have been called much worse. Those of you who do are of limited perspective and limited understanding of the degree to which many DIYers understand electronics and their abilities.


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## lcaillo

mrgcav said:


> SAD but only after someone gets hurt and sues you. MAYBE then you will wake up.
> Good day.



This matter of the dangers of electronics service deserves more discussion. Please make your comments as post in the thread linked below so we can discuss in detail some of the dangers and so they will be easy to find as a sticky.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...ance/17403-dangers-safety-considerations.html


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt

mrgcav said:


> IF you wish to work for free, then do so. Professionals take years to train and learn trade "secrets".
> You do them a great disservice and since you seem to be a professional you acts are counter productive, verging on traitorous, to your own profession.


Interesting. I'd have to say that I've had more bad experiences at the hands of "professional" service technicians than positive. I've had them return stuff several times exhibiting the very same problems I sent it to them to fix, had them not be able to diagnose or repair a simple intermittent remote control problem, and even had them incapable of following simple instructions like, "replace burned-out LED."

Overall, I typically dread having to turn something of mine over to a repair shop...

Regards,
Wayne


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## lcaillo

mrgcav said:


> Leonard Caillouet,
> IF you wish to work for free, then do so. Professionals take years to train and learn trade "secrets".
> These honorable men & Women have a right to be paid for their valuable skills. You give away their secrets that allow this.
> DIY's who are inexperienced are a danger to themselves in effort to save a few dollars. Then usually it is a professional who has to clean up the mess and then fix the original problem.




I do not work for free. I give advice and share my experience on this forum for free, yes. That experience is also offered for free to many service techs that do not have that experience and know less than many of the DIYers that I help. I am found on many internet discussion groups, listserves, and forums and am well aware of the degree to which experience that I have is found in the many who rate themselves as electronics technicians. Many do not understand much of the basics about what they do and many have thanked me for the discussions found here. Your comments presume that there is much greater knowledge among "professionals" than is actually found in the field. Many techs really do not have a clue, yet are happy to charge hundreds of dollars for a few minutes work, only to leave a set looking worse than the DIYer would leave it.

I have been doing convergence, repairs, and calibration of displays for nearly three decades. In that time I have found the vast majority of technicians to be sloppy, lacking experience, and unwilling to learn. I have also seen hundreds of DIYers who were very detailed in their work and could do far better than the average yahoo technician. Your presumption of professionalism is inaccurate, in my experience.


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## Festivus

lcaillo,

I appreciate your advice. Don't let this guy scare you.

Once I took my car into a shop for an oil change and they added too much oil. I now do all oil changes myself. And no, I'm not a professional mechanic. And yes, I could touch a hot wire and shock myself. I could cross thread a drain plug and lose all oil. But I don't.

All DIYers who want save hundreds of dollars in this horrible economy appreciate all of the advice that we can get. I got no raise this year but my expenses keep rising. So I need all of the help that I can get. Keep it up.

mrgcav, you may know how to use all of the equipment that you mentioned but how many other pro techs out there do? My bet is that if I called a tech I would be adjusting the convergence myself like I was draining that extra quart of oil out of my car. I might pay hundreds of dollars for a repair if I could be confident in the work. I'm not.

Have a nice day.


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## lcaillo

Thanks, but guys like mrgcav don't scare me, nor do I find offense in his comments. There is some value in his points. He just does not understand as much about the wider market as he thinks he does. Many techs feel as he does, and he may be a very reputable, ethical, and qualified professional. As others have said many times here and elsewhere, however, it is not so easy to find gems among the rest.

Most techs simply have no idea how many knowledgeable DIYers there actually are, nor how many hobbyists there are that understand more about their products than many techs. I am the same way you are with respect to my autos and appliances. I have had so many bad experiences that unless I know a really good tech and it is something that I cannot do myself, I DIY. 

Fixing a convergence problem is not quite like removing an appendix. More like cutting your own or your kids hair. Not something that everyone should try, but with care and if you have the skill, it is unlikely that you will be dangerous with the scissors. But then, maybe some barber out there would argue that scissors and razors can be very dangerous...just like those wrenches and hot exhausts. I have to admit, I have busted a knuckle or two, burned an arm, and been hit by a charged cap before. I guess I should not be fixing my car nor servicing electronics.


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## Sonnie

I see he has also broken our Forum Rules in several various ways... :nono:


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## lcaillo

I think his posts could be used as a good example of what is allowed and what is not and why. I gave him some latitude and sent him email discussing the matter. I encouraged him to come in and discuss the matter and voice his opinions but without name calling and disrespect. His posts were what I call "drive by posting," where someone pops in, voices their opinion with some rather sharp jabs, then never returns to back them up with reason or facts. I suspect he will not be back, as in his email response to me he said that there is no more for him to contribute. I think that puts his comments in a pretty clear context. He claims to represent some unnamed organization of professionals involved in the service business. IMO, he has served his issue poorly by making such immature posts. It is a shame, because he could be contributing by helping to educate on the matter of safety, and engaging discussion on just when and why it makes sense to deal with a professional. He might also come to learn why so many have such a low level of respect for those that he sees as "professionals." Wayne's response was a classic example of what I hear and see all of the time.


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## zymurgy7625

lcaillo,I completly agree with what you said about some "tech's" not knowing, or not caring, about the fix themselves. Your rules prevent me from naming names, but I was a victim of an unscrupulous "professional". After reading your forum I was able to identify the multiple things this man did wrong. Very simple things like not bothering to bolt the ic's to the heat sinks or use heat sink compound. This so called "trained professional" even intentionally broke my platic chassis for easier access to solder the ic's. Not only that but he refused to honor his 90 day warranty after 93 days. by reading your posts and a few questions that you promptly answered for me I was able to order the parts and get the set up and running again. Rest assured that most of us greatly appreciate what you do and are smart enough to know which end of a cathode tube not to touch.


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## lcaillo

The rules do not prevent you from naming names. They require that you remain clear about what is fact and what is your opinion and state those in a respectful manner. As long as you state the facts and are fair in reporting your experience and do not rant and bash the individual nor his company, facts are facts. State them as such. If you were to post a report of your experience with a particular servicer, the first thing that I would do is try to contact him to get his side of the story and try to sort out what happened. Others deserve to know the truth. From both perspectives.


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## drdoan

I fixed over 6,000 VCR's in the OKC area. Many of the repairs were "clean up" from other "professional" service centers, who didn't do a good job. This discussion is getting a little out of hand. I have watched my supervisor (in the '70's) sit on concrete while pulling a live chassis out of a Magnavox TV. He got shocked, but, kept right on working. Even professionals can be a bit loony! Any self-repair should be done "at your own risk". Dennis


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## lcaillo

How exactly is the discussion getting out of hand? A bit off the original topic, yes, and I may spin it off into a new thread, but I think the discussion is a valuable one.


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## ljryjj

lcaillo, don't be scared by bad apple. 

Trained professional? through classes and powerpoint slides? :joke:
Trade secret? when we have google and electronic type of files?:jump:
mrgcav, lcaillo's trade secret is here for you for free, why do you want to complain? Even a professional like you can benefit a lot from this forum isn't it. Is it more intuitive and informational than classes/books? Do you want to save a copy of everything here and request someone to hit the delete all button?

DIYers like me can actually avoid many pitfalls if they follow the information in this forum and when they are lucky and find this place. I'm one of the lucky ones. I even saw a person in Australia wrote a post here. Yes this forum benefits WORLDWIDE. This is the one and only forum that I registered and posted.

I guess you don't get enough service calls recently because so many DIYers like me exist.:huh: I was laughing out loud when you said something about 30,000v. Again the current is small it's not enough to kill. You should get a better safety training yourself.

Pls stop bashing and posting off topic things. You are more welcome to share your technical experience here for the benefit of DIYers.


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## jacka

lcaillo - this site is the greatest - I am an "tech" that got out of the business years ago. I know the basics, but need a little assistance now and then. Had a convergence problem, and read up on the issues on a lot of other sites, and was still confused on the correct parts, and what and where to get them. Then I found your site and it was like coming into daylight, ordered the parts per the chassis in my unit, installed them with the resistors included, and the set works perfect. Haven't got to the convergence setup yet, but is pretty good even without those adjustments. Thanks. And anybody con do the parts replacements, I'd just suggest find and old board and do some unsoldering and re soldering as practice, and use common sense about safety.


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## lcaillo

Thank you for the kind words.


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## Festivus

lcaillo,

I have a general question about a symptom with my TV. It's a Philips and there is another thread going for it but this is more of a general question about circuitry.

My TV has been working great for the last 2 weeks.:bigsmile: Before that, I couldn't get the green to adjust for a month.:crying: Before that it worked fine for a month.:yay: Before that I couldn't get the green to adjust for 2 weeks.addle: Before that it was fine.:jump:

In your opinion, does it sound like I have a solder point with a bad/intermittent connection? If a component on the board failed, wouldn't the problem be permanent?

Thanks again for all of the advice.


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## lcaillo

It could be a bad solder connection. You can try resoldering the chips and related parts. It could also be a solder joint in one of the chips that cannot be repaired. Some components fail in an intermittent manner.


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## plruzza

I have trouble with convergence Samsung SP-43T7HC with ICs STK392-040.

I found burned these ICs, I changed it and after replacement ICs burned again after few seconds even I checked or other important details:

- supply voltage + - 24 V .....OK
- all resistors, fuses.............OK

I don't have service manual for these TV so I don't know how need to be oscilograms on input of convergence board.
I took the photos of these diagrams and attached.
Can somebody confirm are these diagrams OK or not?

Thanks in advance.


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## lcaillo

The first looks abnormal to me, but not knowing what they are and not being there it is hard to tell. What do you mean that it burned the chips? How do you know they are bad? Have you tried a convergence reset? This is often needed on Samsungs, but will require a complete geometry and convergence alignment, which can take many hours.


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## plruzza

Thanks for fast response and reply.

Unfortunately when I changed these IC I didn't know about convergence reset.
I found that solution on Net later.
I rush and I was sure how replacing of these IC will solve problem like many times what I already done on different model of rear projection TV sets.
Now I need two ICs more to try again.
In my country it is not easy to find these ICs so it will take time to find that again.
ICs are burned 100 %, they are in short circuit on power supply line - over loaded 24 V power supply - TV set don't want switch on with these voltage connected on convergence board but switching on with disconnected these power supply.
Also I connected this board separately, at dask on external power supply (+-24V) and it consumption over current and overheating.
Thank you very much for your help.
I will be back when I find new ICs.

Best regards


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## lcaillo

Check ALL of the related resistors on the outputs of the ICs with the ICs out of circuit.


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## larrybud

I want to thank the OP for such detail. Unfortunately, I bought some ICs off of eBay (the 6 dollar variety) before I found this thread, and they didn't work at ALL. But I figured since I had them I'd give 'em a shot.

So once I bought the real deal, and replaced one of fuses, it worked like a champ (in a Sony KP57WV700). The geometry seems to be better as well.

Note that I had a of a time disconnecting the high power lines. One I actually broke off the connector (you're supposed to be able to "push in, twist 90 degrees), but no dice. I worked on it for an hour until it finally broke. I was able to then get the connector out, and resolder it to the wire.

Any advice here would be appreciated for future reference!


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## lcaillo

You should not have to remove the HV connectors to replace the ICs. Be very careful with high voltage connections, soldering thm, or any condition that could alter the original design. 30kV can leak to ground or static charges can build up and migrate, doing a lot of damage to person and equipment on its way to ground.

I will post a warning somewhere obvious regarding these connections. Any suggestions on where it should be is appreciated.

Please post the source that you used for the problem ICs so that others may avoid the same mistake. We do not allow bashing of vendors, but facts are facts, and if you can help someone else avoid a problem, please do so.


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## larrybud

How was I supposed to get the board out when there's a high voltage cable attached to it? At best I might be able to pull the board out 6" from the cabinet.


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## ljryjj

The answer is, don't take the board out. Flip the board about 90 degree and let it stands so that you have access to the bottom of the board to do the desoldering/soldering work.


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## lcaillo

Ditto that. I have done dozens of these and similar sets and rarely have to remove the anode leads. The risk with damaging a connector is too great. A loose fit and it will arc out, damaging the anode lead and the flyback or distribution block.

On many sets I do not even remove the board because you can flip the whole chassis on its side. This is not possible on many sony sets because of the plastic cover on the bottom.


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## varocketry

*SONY KP-61XBR38 Convergence Repairs & thermal paste ques*

Lcaillo:

I wonder if you have advice on these questions as I begin the repair of my SONY KP-61XBR38 set.

I removed the D Board on my SONY KP-61XBR38 last night to attempt the convergence repair by replacing the ICS. I noticed immediately that the lower right STK4278-L had loose, cold soldered pins #23 & #24 - WHICH CERTAINLY CONTRIBUTED TO my convergence issues.

1) SInce I have it open and have two new ICs, should I replace both, or just this one and try it.?

2) Do you know if thermal paste HAS to be electrically conductive in addition to thermally conductive? I ask as I just purchased Artic SIlver Ceramique thermal paste - so it wouldn't accidentally electrically short anything. then I've started wondering whether it's also intended to ground the IC to the tray. 

3) what other components (PICO FUSE?) need to be checked for repair?

4) ON Techlore, a user mentions having a heat sink applied to the STK4278-L IC. 
This seems to mirror comment on heat dissipation in your discussion at the fornt of this thread.
I notice the ICs have a plastic shell. Did you cut through this shell to affix the heat sink to the underlying IC metal case? Is this a recommended mod?


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## ljryjj

1) you can resolder the two pins and see if it works. If you want to replace the chips then always do all of them

2) use non-conductive thermal paste

3) as to pico fuses you need to look at the schematic to see if there are any for the +/- power supply to the convergence amps, and/or fuses to the sub-yokes

4) I don't under stand your question. Thermal paste should be applied between the heatsink and the metal surface of the chip


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## dmikou

Icaillo,

First thank you very much for this post.
I need a small clarification. Am I right that repair kit are only for the Hitachi tv's?

I have Toshiba TV 43AX60A, chassis N0NSP
I checked the canvergence chips. They are STK392-110.
Service manual shows IC, MN102L35GFC, Part number 23000443.
The Tritronics web site (ecompassparts.com) does not show any picture or Part number variations for this part number.
Should I buy this part number or buy CZ01341 which is (STK394-160 or Hybrid IC STK394-160E)

Thank you.


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## varocketry

4) Heat dissipation on the STK ICs.

Is there any value to affixing a copper heatsink to the plastic case of the STK using thermal adhesive.?
Would that draw extra heat away. There is plenty of clearance to do this.


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## lcaillo

dmikou said:


> Icaillo,
> 
> First thank you very much for this post.
> I need a small clarification. Am I right that repair kit are only for the Hitachi tv's?
> 
> I have Toshiba TV 43AX60A, chassis N0NSP
> I checked the canvergence chips. They are STK392-110.
> Service manual shows IC, MN102L35GFC, Part number 23000443.
> The Tritronics web site (ecompassparts.com) does not show any picture or Part number variations for this part number.
> Should I buy this part number or buy CZ01341 which is (STK394-160 or Hybrid IC STK394-160E)
> 
> Thank you.


Hitachi repair kits are specific to the chassis for which they are specified. The STK394-160 ICs are able to work in some other sets, but I would be wary of substitutions unless someone has specifically reported that they work in YOUR model. Some differences in the muting circuits have been speculated and reportedly there are problems in some sets. Don't count on the resistors being the right values for anything other than the sets that they are specified for.

Other vendors assemble kits. The degree to which they apply to your set is a question for each specific case. I do not generally use kits other than those from Hitachi.

I have not used that IC in your set. I would recommend replacing it with the same part, or if you want to upgrade, use the -150 to be sure to avoid problems. I do not generally buy generic parts from Tritronics, only manufacturer supplied parts. If you want to be sure to get first quality Sanyo chips go to Acme or B&D or use the manufacturer part number when buying from Tritronics (now Encompass).


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## lcaillo

varocketry said:


> 4) Heat dissipation on the STK ICs.
> 
> Is there any value to affixing a copper heatsink to the plastic case of the STK using thermal adhesive.?
> Would that draw extra heat away. There is plenty of clearance to do this.


I am not familiar with any thermal adhesives that are effective in transferring heat. Heat sinks are usually screwed to ICs. That is why they have holes. Heat sink compound is actually very poor at conducting heat. The reason that it is used is that it is somewhat better than air and it should only fill the gaps. If you want to get the best conduction, you need to manage the surfaces to make them flatter. On some semiconductors that do not sit flat on a heat sink I have sanded the heat sink in areas to get better contact.

If you are aware of some adhesive that has good thermal conduction please let us know what it is. 

As I pointed out in other threads, I have never found the need for additional cooling, even in the most notoriously hot-running sets. If you are careful about heat sink compound application and carefully align the set for the minimum d.c. offset and minimum correction at the edges, it is unlikely to ever have a problem again.


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## varocketry

http://www.arcticsilver.com/products.htm#epoxy

Lcaillo:
I recommend you check out the ARCTIC SILVER company who makes the HIGH PERFORMANCE thermal grease for computer CPU applications. They also make thermal adnesives (two part epoxies) with comparable performance.


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## lcaillo

Good info. I was not aware that they made adhesives. 

I guess the reall question then, is whether you want your ICs permanently bonded to the heat sinks. I would just use a better heat sink paste if you are that concerned about it. The silver based pastes are claimed to have much higher thermal conductivity.


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## Ox1de

Hi there lcaillo first off I'd like to thank you a bunch for your terrific write up it made my understand a lot about the issue i'm currently experiencing I wouldn't have known without your write up.

Secondly I'd also like to thank you for still being active.. I've found many helpful threads in many forums but most people have disappeared 

Now to explain my issue a little . Here's a picture of the current state of my TV. It's a Sony KP-46wt510









From research it seems like a definite convergence issue.

I followed instructions online pressing display,5,volume up, then power while the tv is turned off to enter service mode. Went to the convergence setting then it got it to show the convergence grid. Tried selecting Red, green, and blue and moving them. The numbers in the upper middle and right change indicating what I'm guessing horizontal and vertical but nothing else shows anything including the lines of convergence don't move. Am I doing something wrong here ? 

From what I've read in your write up it originally seemed like I needed to replace the STK's. Now from what i've tried none of the convergence options change like I explained above it seems to me like a supply issue. If this is the case how does one go about changing the supply or testing it out ? Also would it be wise to purchase the Sony KP-46wt510 service manual to do this procedure ? Sorry if my questions have already been answered in this thread somewhere I'm very new to troubleshooting TV's i'm more of a computer person and any help would be greatly appreciated


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## lcaillo

Yes, you need to change the ICs and likely a couple of pico fuses in the power supply.

Your post will be moved to a new thread in the Sony forum to maintain organization and to make information easier to find.


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## mfd4509

Thanks to all the mods and others, I have convergence issues with a Mit WS-55809, at this time I cannot afford a new set. I will be ordering IC's and am researching the out put resistors locations and values.

Thanks for the effort and this forum has been a great help.


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## jeffescortlx

lcaillo, want to thank you for sharing the great info... even though some poeple are angry your taking away there opportunity to make a easy $400+.

Question: I notice the STK's are allway's replaced in pairs. But what are the chances both are defective?
I'm currenty doing a KP-46WT510, I allready pulled both chips, but I'm thinking to my self one of these $40 STK's I'm throwing in the trash is still good. The TV only blew one fuse on the power supply board, PS5001. Do you ever trouble shoot it down to a single bad chip?


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## lcaillo

One chip is almost always good. The reason to change both is to prevent having to go back and do the other later. The chips and the heat sink compound are the same age and the cost of doing two is only incrementally greater than one. The labor cost of going back and doing it again is the biggest reason to replace both. It is also beyond the ability of many to properly diagnose which is bad, particularly if the set is shutting down.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## woodduckmn

I believe this is my issue again. I replaced the 110 chips about a month ago with 110 chips and today the green image is hour glass shaped across the screen. I can move the red and blue for the center cross hair. Do you think there is another problem or did I get a cheap IC's that burned out in a month? I'm having a hard time finding a supplier that has the X480300 repair kit in stock. I think there might be a blown resistor. 

Any thoughts. My TV is a Hitachi 53swx01w.

Input would be appreciated.

9/18/08- I ordered all the parts using the 160e chips this time and replaced the 6 transistors and so far so good. Went quicker this time.

Thanks


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## sgtbecktar

Hi Icaillo:

I’m trying to fix my Sony KP 46WT510. I’ve replace the two convergence chips. I also needed to replace two 3.5 amp picofuses, one for each chip. These fuses are labeled as P58001 and P58002. They are the “same” picofuse for each of the two chips (meaning they are located in the same relative position on each of the two different IC chips).

One of the pico fuses keeps blowing out. It is the one that is traced to the GH_OUT output. As I understand it, one IC chip controls the RED convergence and half of the GREEN convergence, while the other IC chip controls the BLUE convergence and the other half of the GREEN. It is the BLUE chip I’m having problems with.

After replacing and blowing this same picofuse three times (P58002), I finally noticed that a whole row of resistors next to it were burnt out. I do not know when this occurred, but I’m assuming that this is why the picofuse keeps blowing. There are 5 resistors that are burnt, all next to each other and (I assume) are chained together. They are designated as R8046, R8053, R8060, R8064, R8067.

A have a few questions:

1) Am I right in assuming that the burnt-out resistors were the reason my picofuse kept blowing out, or is it the other way around - that the resistors finally burnt out because I kept trying new picofuses and they finally had enough? If I am wrong about the resistors, what is causing that picofuse to blow? A short? I know from reading about this that resistors blowing is pretty rare for this type of fix, so I’m worried why so many of mine blew out.

2) I’m operating under the assumption that my RED IC Convergence replacement chip is functioning since 1) none of the fuses have blown since replacement and 2) I am able to move the RED cross-hair in the Convergence Setup Screen in all directions. Is this a correct assumption? Curiously enough, I am also able to move the BLUE cross-hair in the Convergence Setup Screen in all directions as well, which confuses me since that chip’s picofuse has blown out every time. What is the best way to know if my RED IC Convergence chip is good? What is the best way for me to know that my RED chip is doing it’s half in controlling the GREEN like it should?

3) My plan of action: Replace all of the resistors listed: R8046, R8053, R8060, R8064, R8067, with 4.7 ohm, 0.5 watt resistors. The only difference is that the resistors I got have a 5% tolerance band while the resistors I’m replacing have a 2% tolerance band. Is this OK? Then I plan to replace the 3.5 amp picofuse (P58002) for the fourth time. I have already de-soldered my replacement BLUE IC Convergence chip so I can resolder it and make sure it is clean. I plan to do that part last. Is there anything I should look out for or know, or do you think this is the right plan of action?

Thanks so much for any and all help, I can’t tell you how much I’ve learned reading about this Convergence problem in Sony TVs and from people like you. Very much appreciated.


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## AAjax

Just wanted to stop in and say thanks again, after almost a year my JVC is still workin like a champ.


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## lcaillo

I appreciate hearing from those who have been helped. It goes a long way to making the effort seem worth it, in spite of the flak that I get from other servicers for helping DIYers.


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## thecyanaura

well, I wasn't going to create a new account until I saw your last post, but here I am. 

I would just like to extend a HUGE thanks to you for the help that you so selflessly give out in this forum. I was given a 53uwx10BA by a friend of mine and it, of course, had a convergence issue that he didn't want to deal with. 

I did some research that included stumbling across this thread and it gave me the confidence to go ahead with the repair. I bought a couple of chips from one of your recommended dealers and it was off to the races. 

the day of receiving my chips, i was reading through this thread more thoroughly and got nervous about opening up the back of my tv due to the few posts that were damning you and claiming how dangerous this repair was. I decided not to listen to those people who were really just upset that you were helping DIY's. I was careful in everything I did and I had the tV fixed right up in an hour and a half! ! :yay:

I was very proud of myself (i'm just a novice solder guy) and I've been enjoying my new found $80 (parts + tools) HDTV for the past three weeks now. I can't thank you enough. 

It's a pretty easy project to complete if you have any knowledge of electronics and any skill at soldering at all. I understand why TV Repair shops would charge so much for certain things, but I'm glad that I was able to fix this on my own. I threw a little external powered computer fan onto the back panel of my TV (just in case - I didn't upgrade, stayed with the 110s :dunno and all is good. 

Thanks again for the inspiration. I'm actually going to start doing some more small electronics repair if I can find the time. I enjoyed this project that much.


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## lcaillo

To me this is very American, whether you are American or not. It is the willingness to take a chance to make something happen, to do what we have never done before, or to just make things work better that has made this country great and unique. As I have said before, DIYers and the desire to do things better or more efficiently have been at the heart of much of the innovation that has occurred in our industry. Many of the great designers, and many of the best techs started out as DIY tinkerers.


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## drdoan

Welcome, and glad the Shack could be of help. Have fun. Dennis


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## bt10

Hello,
Does anyone know if Hitachi has a kit for their 51F500? If not specifically for that model is there an existing one that would be a close fit? I have been searching high and low and haven't had much luck. I even called Hitachi's technical / customer support number and after looking a few kits up for me based on the part numbers I gave them they indicated that they were not for the 51F500 model. Without being much help they recommended I don't attempt the repair myself and simply call a qualified repair person. Worst case I am thinking about using the website which provides tv repair kits but they list using STK392-110 & STK392-150 IC's and the price is about double what some of the kits with STK394-160 IC's are listed at.

Any help / insight is appreciated.

Thanks in advance.


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## lcaillo

There is no Hitachi kit for this set. I just use the STK394-160 from one of the other kits and the same value resistors that are in the set and have never had a recall. Whatever you do, don't use the -110. You can at least update to the -150.


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## Watcher

I have a 2002 Mitsubishi WT-42311 with failed convergence. After reading this thread, I tried to find the Hitachi repair kit from a number of the suggested sources. This was tough. It seems no one had any in stock, it was back-ordered, and ETA kept creeping further into the future. I finally found it at Sears online parts and got it, $39 after a 10% discount, plus shipping. It has the STK394-160 ICs and resistors. I might need to replace fuses, but don't know yet until I get into it, and those aren't included in the kit. I plan to buy Arctic Alumina thermal compound at Frys for a couple bucks, and I should be ready to get at it.


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## lcaillo

You bought a Hitachi kit. It will not have the parts you need to fix a Mitsubishi. You can try the -160 ICs, and they may work fine, but the resistors are for a particular model Hitachi. Understand that there have been reported issues with subbing in some brands and models. I do not recall specifically on this set, as very few of them have had convergence IC issues. They usually just need to be resoldered if anything. I have also seen bad caps in the convergence power supply in these. If you want a kit for a particular set there are vendors that put them together like TVRepairkits.com.


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## bt10

Thank you lcaillo for all of the information you have posted in this thread and for your quick response! Is there a Hitachi kit that might closely match what I will need for the 51F500? If not is there one kit that is better than the others (higher availability, cheaper, always has the stk394-160's, etc...)? Also, is there a list of resistors (and resistance values) related to the convergence circuit for this model?
Thanks in advance!


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## lcaillo

Specific information about the parts in a particular model may be found in the service manual for that model. Info about the Hitachi kits is in PDF file linked in post nuber 4 above.


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## bt10

I have looked at the pdf's of each repair kit in post number 4 (thank you for all of that information) but where can I find / buy a service manual?
Thanks


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## lcaillo

http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...ps-service-manuals-assorted-useful-links.html

Has some ideas, some free sites some for a fee.


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## Randallray

*Newbie Question*

Hello,

I am brand new to the Shack and I have really enjoyed the info on this site.
I have repaired my phillips 60in (9 years old) set from the info you have given here and it worked but I have a few questions.

First the blue convergence seems to have a glow about it. I notice it most with something white against a black background. I hope that makes sense. Can that be adjusted?



Second it seems like I have to keep adjusting the red convergence. I am storing it in memory so I am not sure what's going on there.


Once again thank you for all the great info.


RandallRay


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## lcaillo

Look for info on coolant contamination in the Philips forum for the blue haze. 

With respect to the red convergence shifting, are you letting the unit warm up? How often and how far out is it?

Please start a new thread in the Philips forum with more info.


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## Steve757

Thanks for building such a complete thread. I have a nine yr old Hitachi 43" projection TV that threw out the green image after a power brown out. I was resigned to have to spend 1000 on a new TV when I found this forum. Most of the Sanyo chips are discontinued, but the 392-150 series is readily available. I ordered a couple and some resistors and had the job done in about two hours. It appears that the heat simk compound dries out over a long time and isolates the IC's from the heat sink, then they burn up. The TV is like new now , and in the TV I found a pair of heavy duty lines that are "switched" AC going to the main power board. I cut a six inch hole in the fiberboard backing plate and mounted a small ac desk fan spiced into the switched ac line, so that it blows right over the heatsink and forces hot air out of the cabinet. It only runs when the TV is turned on. So far the image is back to factory specs.

Note--when you put the chips in remember they do not have straight leads, but curved springy leads that have to be compressed slightly to get the mounting holes to line up on the heat sink. Don't acccidentally bend the leads when putting them in. 

Steve


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## mbrown224

Do you call this a Convergence Problem that might be solved by replacing the Convergence ICs? I have a WS 55809 Mitsubishi where the green gun seems to cause curved lines in the Convergence adjust pattern displayed which normally looks like a series of straight horizontal and vertical lines. You can then select either the Red or Blue gun to line up with the green gun to ultimately change all the lines to white when the Convergence is correct. When my TV suddenly had what appeared to be a Convergence issue, I went to that adjustment screen and saw three of the vertical lines in the left hand part of the screen with a pretty good size "bow" in them toward the middle of the screen. There is no way to adjust the green gun Convergence so the TV is now unwatchable. Do you think this is an IC problem where only a few (3) vertical lines have a bow in them - so much so that the blue and red cannot be "adjusted" (mis-adjusted) to line up with them. Your opinion would be greatly appreciated.


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## lcaillo

Please read the first ten posts of this thread very carefully. It sounds like you do have a convergence problem.


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## drdoan

Welcome Mike. Yes, does sound like a convergence problem. Have fun. Dennis


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## Steve757

My initial symptom was that the green part of the TV image shrank slightly and the lower left corner warped inward. I could not set the green comvergenge lines left or down...just up and in. The red and blue were still fine. After I replaced the two chips (convergence amplifiers) and the resistors, I cleared out the memory for the digital convergence and then did the coarse through fine adjustments. A lens cleaning is also in order....it really helps. The TV is like new and contrast is darker, due to the lens cleaning. Good luck!


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## Krankshaft

Don't forget to clean the mirror too!

I remember when I did my convergence in April of 08 I removed the lenses (4 screws) from the CRTs and cleaned both sides and also cleaned the glass heads of the CRTs (the top of the coolant chambers) because dead flies were down there yuck!! Just make sure the lenses go back on the right tubes or you'll be loosening the wingnuts and adjusting focus.

A microfiber cloth and 90% rubbing alcohol is the best for lenses. Distilled water is good too but it won't evaporate as quickly. The focusing lenses are plastic so you have to be gentle with them.


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## clefhanger

my SINCERE apologies if i missed any of this in a previous post and am requesting anything that was previously addressed

I searched for STK394-160 at four sites and was unable to find it.

they only had the following suffixes:

Andrews
250

B&D
210, 250, 250a, 260e, 510

Acme
210, 510, 710, 250a

Electronic Repair Kits
250

does the STK394-160 refer to the kit number or an individual chip that comes with the kit?

does the kit contain two identical chips, or are they different?

Am I a total noob or what?  I have a Toshiba 50H82 and the red is out of alignment and won't adjust. It's been a long while since i've had it out and looked at it, so I can't remember if both H and V were stuck or if it was just one of them. I only remember it was the red one.

Thanks in advance for any help!!!

Les


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## lcaillo

They are found in the Hitachi kits for which the part numbers are listed in the Parts post. The part was specifically made for hitachi, but they work in other sets as well. The kits are geting harder to find and more expensive. You can use the STK392-150 instead and get good results.


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## clefhanger

I think it finally soaked through the metal plate in my head.

So.. I search for / purchase any of the X480### kits listed in post number 4, use the chips and disregard the resistors (unless they just so happen to match one that I might need)?


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## lcaillo

That is what I do ( have lots of extra resistors). Remember, however, that this sub has been reported to not work in all sets. I haven't run into a problem yet, but sub at your own risk. I can assure you that the 392-150 is always a better choice than the 392-110.


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## Seaver1970

Hi I am new to this site my brother-in-law has had nothing but great things to say about you and refered me to this sight. I have a Philips projection tv 55PP9701 and the red bulb will go out after the tv has been played for awhile you can unplug the set and turn back on later and the picture is great. I work as an electrical electronics tech but do not have experience with projection tv's. Is there any help you can give me.


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## Krankshaft

What do you mean by go out? Does the red tube cut off completely or go out of convergence?


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## IDynamic

Where to start.....the set I'm working with is a Philips 51PP9100D Chassis DPTV585.
A couple months ago I had something go wrong with the TV. The analog input (coax), video 1 2 and 3 are all missing a color. Sometimes the picture is all red and sometimes it's all green. Switching between video inputs on the TV (via remote) it will change back a forth. It didn't bother me to much since the majority of viewing was done thru the HDMI input and that was working perfect (along with the digital OTA channels). Well about a week ago the red color started to bow at the top and bottom of the screen on the left side. I would be very thankful of any help the great HTS can provide.


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## Seaver1970

Krankshaft said:


> What do you mean by go out? Does the red tube cut off completely or go out of convergence?


Thanks for getting back to me. The Red tube will go out completly and will come on if you turn the red adjustment in the back of the set wich will cause too much red in the picture or you can unplug the set from the the outlet and let it set for a few hours and it will work like normal.


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## Krankshaft

Red adjustment? Do you mean the screen voltage adjustment for the red tube on the High Voltage Block?

Is there a red cable coming out of it?


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## lcaillo

This discussion should not be in this thread. Please start a new thread in the manufacturer's forum and I will move the posts there.


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## Seaver1970

It is the block that has two adjustment each for red blue and green with corresponding colored wires coming out


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## lcaillo

Anyone coming to this thread should be sure to read the first ten posts very carefully. If you are not confident that you understand all of the possible problems that you may encounter or are not confident in your troubleshooting and repair skills, I strongly suggest you consult a professional. You can find many of the best techs at the link in my signature.


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