# My Shed Home Theatre



## kwalikum (Oct 31, 2011)

I've been inspired by the builds of RaZorTT, Sandman, and others, to start a build thread, and given the helpful responses I've read so far this seems to be the right forum to do it. 

I don't have enough posts for images yet, but the basic idea is I have a 10m x 6m shed/workshop next to the house and I'm planning to put an isolated HT room of 3.4m x 5.2m inside. I haven't done anything yet but clear the space so the dimensions are flexible at this point but I'm pretty happy with that size. It will be in a corner so the two edge walls will be double stud, insulated, with plaster. The two "inner" walls will be staggered stud, insulated, with plaster. I'll have two rows of seating with the second row raised.

The caveat: I don't have a big budget for this build, something in the order of $5000 to start and I'll worry about upgrades later. That means I'm using existing, pretty average speakers (5.1), existing amp, existing furniture, etc. The bigger purchases beyond the room itself will most likely be carpets and a projector+screen. My goal is simply a mostly-sound-proofed room that family and friends can watch movies in reasonable style without annoying the neighbours. Secondary use will most likely be playstation rather than music.

So, rather than starting with nothing, I'll start with a couple questions that I've been mulling over.

1. Can anyone recommend the ideal place for an equipment cabinet, or whether I need one at all? I don't mind having some standard furniture at the front with a few components in it if that makes the most sense, but I have the opportunity to build in anything at this point.

2. I was originally thinking of fabric walls, like what you would see in a standard theatre. Further reading tho has brought to my attention the need to absorb a range of frequencies which your average velvet curtain does not. Given I'm not exactly an audiophile with 1000s of watts to absorb, how much should I worry about that at this point if I'm planning a room with 4 plaster walls and ceiling, and a carpeted concrete slab floor?

Let the building begin


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Regardless of the amount of power or quality of equipment, the acoustic problems (and solutions) are still the same. That said, if budget is limited, you may need to address a portion of the acoustics now and a portion later as budget allows.

The equipment rack ideally would be somewhere other than the front of the room so the lights aren't visible and don't cause the setup to be asymmetric.

Bryan


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## Ted White (May 4, 2009)

I agree with Bryan. Also, you might consider exchanging the staggered stud walls for double stud walls. Better isolation and roughly the same raw materials.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

As I have seen Bryan say many times- Welcome to the madness! 

I found this forum just over a month ago, and I must say I have been very impressed with the responses and the knowledge in those responses. Make sure to ask any questions you have - there are many people here that are more than willing to help.

If you can manage it within your budget, my opinion would be to put the equipment as much out of sight as you can and use IR emitters to control everything. It really makes for a "that is so cool" feel when you can control everything with a simple push of a button and no one can see the equipment you are controlling. For example, Dale framed up a closet in the back of his HT and moved his equipment there- you can check his build thread for pics.

And - pics!! :rofl:


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## kwalikum (Oct 31, 2011)

Thanks for the tips guys. Thinking about equipment placement has me also thinking about subwoofer placement. I understand it is non-directional and have read about the subwoofer crawl, but how do people get the in-wall wiring done right before the walls are up and you can listen to the room - chicken and egg, right?

I don't particularly want to run cables along the floor nor do I want to try to push cables thru walls (conduit, perhaps, but then how do you know where to put that in the first place, plus you're going to need power somewhere close). Cheers!


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

Cable is relatively cheap.
Simply run the cable in the wall to where all the possible placements are. After the room is built do the sub crawl, cut a hole in the wall, pull the excess cable and trim it.


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## kwalikum (Oct 31, 2011)

Hit 5 posts so here is my proposed floor plan (had I known about the dummy posts thread I would have done this earlier)


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## megageek (Oct 27, 2011)

Do you have a projector at the moment? If its a dlp you may be restricted as to where it can go so mabey design the room around that?? I personally dont like lcd projectors so im happy to shift a room around to accomodate a dlp!


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Yes - wire is cheap. Install several wall plates in the room. That gives you more flexibility.

Also, current research tends to suggest that 2 subwoofers, 1 centered on the front wall and 1 centered on the rear wall is one of the most optimum setups as is 1 centered on each side wall.

Bryan


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

bpape said:


> Yes - wire is cheap. Install several wall plates in the room. That gives you more flexibility.
> 
> Also, current research tends to suggest that 2 subwoofers, 1 centered on the front wall and 1 centered on the rear wall is one of the most optimum setups as is 1 centered on each side wall.
> 
> Bryan


Bryan - how much better performance is it than having both subs on the front wall? I am sure it is subjective to the room configuration, but is there an average?


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Both on the front depends on the flexibility you have in positioning and how well the available space works in terms of frequency response. 

The front and rear help better fill the space more evenly as well as helping with some modal problems.

Bryan


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## Wayne A. Pflughaupt (Apr 13, 2006)

bpape said:


> Also, current research tends to suggest that 2 subwoofers, 1 centered on the front wall and 1 centered on the rear wall is one of the most optimum setups as is 1 centered on each side wall.


 Doesn’t appear that his space constraints will permit a rear-center sub...










Regards,
Wayne


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

What kind of clearance would he need in front of a sub if he decided to go on the back wall? Or, could it be installed in the wall (provided the space was available)?


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## kwalikum (Oct 31, 2011)

biach said:


> Do you have a projector at the moment? If its a dlp you may be restricted as to where it can go so mabey design the room around that?? I personally dont like lcd projectors so im happy to shift a room around to accomodate a dlp!


No, I don't have a projector yet. Since my budget is limited I'm having a look on ebay and the panasonic AE range from a few years ago look pretty good to me. I don't have a screen either and I have read the sticky about choosing a projector so I gather I'm doing this in the wrong order, but I would really like to have a basic system I can play with as the build progresses so I'm looking at getting one sooner rather than later.

I like the idea of shelf mounting on the back wall, but I'm fine to ceiling mount as well if that works out better for the projector I end up with.


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## kwalikum (Oct 31, 2011)

ALMFamily said:


> What kind of clearance would he need in front of a sub if he decided to go on the back wall? Or, could it be installed in the wall (provided the space was available)?


Thanks, I'm wondering this too. Based on previous advice I'm allowing 1-2' behind the back wall seating to make sure the listeners are 2-3' from the wall. I only have a single, relatively small sub (front firing 10" - I don't have the enclosure measurements handy).

I don't have the option of installing in the back or side (top of plan) wall, but I suppose I could build it into the front wall. I like the idea of tucking it in behind the seating.

Should the speaker face the audience, or can it face any direction?

Cheers!


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## lcaillo (May 2, 2006)

Looks like the prototypical Home Theater Shack is being built!


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## megageek (Oct 27, 2011)

kwalikum said:


> No, I don't have a projector yet. Since my budget is limited I'm having a look on ebay and the panasonic AE range from a few years ago look pretty good to me. I don't have a screen either and I have read the sticky about choosing a projector so I gather I'm doing this in the wrong order, but I would really like to have a basic system I can play with as the build progresses so I'm looking at getting one sooner rather than later.
> 
> I like the idea of shelf mounting on the back wall, but I'm fine to ceiling mount as well if that works out better for the projector I end up with.


Try looking for a mitsubishi HC1100 on ebay. They pop up regularly and are a mighty pj for the money. I have one and a friend has one too and they are low maintenance, reliable and provide an excelent image. I picked one up for 500 and my friends was 500 too but he scored a spare lamp and bracket with his. If you PM me your email, id happily send you sum screen shots.


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## kwalikum (Oct 31, 2011)

Got a few supplies during the week and made a start of it. The rest of the shed is packed with, well, junk, so I'll have to clean more of that out as I go. Not terribly interesting pics, but pics none the less. Plaster is mostly done so on to the 4 new stud walls to make the room now.


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## robbo266317 (Sep 22, 2008)

kwalikum said:


> Got a few supplies during the week and made a start of it. The rest of the shed is packed with, well, junk, so I'll have to clean more of that out as I go. Not terribly interesting pics, but pics none the less. Plaster is mostly done so on to the 4 new stud walls to make the room now.


You will find the time goes very quickly. Then you say "I wish I had run a cable there......"

Cheers,
Bill.


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## kwalikum (Oct 31, 2011)

Picked up a projector from ebay which should arrive this week 

My components now consist of:

Yamaha DPX-530 (DLP)
Sony STR-DE475 (5.1)
random 10" powered sub
random tower fronts
random bookshelf surrounds

I'm still missing (at least) two things.

1) Center speaker. I'd like to get something decent here - I know everything is mis-matched, but I figure a reasonable center will be much better than either another cast-off speaker or running without one.

2) Digital source. For now I'll be running off an old laptop with VGA and 2 channel audio. I might pickup a mini-TOSLINK cable and use my macbook to get DVI-D/5.1, but using a laptop with VLC is still a temporary solution. The shed has ethernet cables to the rest of the house so once that is connected up I reckon a WDTV and maybe a bluray player is all I'm going need.


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## megageek (Oct 27, 2011)

I would suggest a ps3. For $300 you get alot! I have 2 both with 500gb hdd installed and they stream everything from my computer down stairs. For the money, they do alot!! Ive got hundreds of hours of music on there and thousands of photo's and home videos as well. Probably the best all in one sytem out there for the price!


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## kwalikum (Oct 31, 2011)

Got my Yamaha DPX-530 on Saturday and set it up for fun last night. At this point I don't really have a room at all, but it was good to get a feel for screen size and such given the chance (and by "screen", I mean the classic hanging white sheet  ). Initial areas of concern:

1. Heaps of light reflections on the wall from the screen. Unpainted plaster wall at the moment so I'll make sure to paint a reasonably flat, dark colour. I haven't read much about other ways to combat this but I'll have a poke around.

2. Lack of sound from the surrounds was a bit disappointing. Not being used to 5.1 after setting everything up and checking with the individual speaker test tone I listened to the surrounds and generally got nothing but a bit of static. Perhaps I'm just listening at the wrong time or expecting too much. Movie sounded good, don't get me wrong, I just didn't notice anything popping out at me from the sides when on screen I thought it might have (a torpedo whooshing past, perhaps).

3. Screen size was great. It measured 91" wide and we were seated at about 12'. The pixels are obvious when the credits roll, but during the movie I was happy. I don't know if the clarity of a real screen will make things better or worse in this respect. With two rows of seating the front will be closer so this is probably about the widest a person would want, so I think I'll mount the projector with this size as the closest zoom so zooming the other way will make it about 75" wide. I don't know enough about screens or masking or surrounds yet (for example, what do people do when your screen is 2.35:1 and you decide to watch something 1.78?) so far so good.

4. Projector is noisier than I thought it would be. Not enough to be annoying, but noticeable at times.

I'm still happy with the room dimensions so some real walls is the next step but probably not for a couple weeks.


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

To get a balanced sound from fronts to surrounds you'll need to use an SPL meter to set all speakers at 75dB.
The Receivers internal EQ does not always set the right levels..


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Hey - hope everything is going well! Just wanted to check and see how the build was coming along! :bigsmile:


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## kwalikum (Oct 31, 2011)

Wow! It's been a while, sorry ALMFamily. I got some work done over a couple part weekends and then holidays hit and I haven't done anything for a while.

At this point I have plastered the outer two walls, built the four stud walls (two standard walls for the outer and two staggered stud for the inner), and built the riser at the back. I didn't really want to put the riser in at this point but I needed to square up the room and that meant the outer wall ran off the bricks (and on to the riser) so this seemed like the easiest option. - Your room is that much out of square!? Yes, unfortunately, the outer shed walls are, but now the HT walls aren't.  

My next task is getting the ceiling rafters in as I will be laying some flooring up top and filling it with the usual array of shed to clear up some floor space. That probably won't be until March some time but I'll be doing bits here and there.

I'm not sure if I should plaster the outside of the two inner walls now to tighten everything up, or whether I should leave them bare until everything else is done. I'm leaning towards doing them now as this will allow me to get the rest of the shed back to normal earlier with shelving and such, but that comes with restricted access to the walls should I stuff up the wiring or something.


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## kwalikum (Oct 31, 2011)

Oh, and I've used the projector a couple more times in a spare room in the house. Happy with the screen quality but still concerned about the noise and the heat! When I was testing in the shed the heat wasn't trapped in but running it in a small inside room it gets cooking hot. I'm hoping the noise will not be such a factor with ceiling mounting and decent movie sound - I'm not sure what else you can do about that beyond getting a quieter projector?

Regarding the heat, I'm thinking of a simple split system on the back wall where I have a good spot for the compressor unit outside will do the trick. I've read a bit about DIY for this installation and it seems like the smart money is on getting a professional in to do it, but it all comes out of the budget so time will tell. With a starting budget of around 5k, just cooling the room might eat up 20%.


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## megageek (Oct 27, 2011)

Good to see ur still going strong!! I think everyone want to upgrade their pj's for all sorts of reasons so ur not alone there!! Just turn the stereo up, takes care of crying kids as well!!


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

kwalikum said:


> Wow! It's been a while, sorry ALMFamily. I got some work done over a couple part weekends and then holidays hit and I haven't done anything for a while.
> 
> At this point I have plastered the outer two walls, built the four stud walls (two standard walls for the outer and two staggered stud for the inner), and built the riser at the back. I didn't really want to put the riser in at this point but I needed to square up the room and that meant the outer wall ran off the bricks (and on to the riser) so this seemed like the easiest option. - Your room is that much out of square!? Yes, unfortunately, the outer shed walls are, but now the HT walls aren't.
> 
> ...


Nice to hear from you! Looks like you passed me by - I am going to have to get to it.....

IMO, I would wait to finish those walls. I have the same thing with the walls in the laundry room. I decided it would be good to leave them open just in case I needed to bury anything in the wall after I finished off the HT room itself. But, I can understand wanting to get the rest of the shed back too! :bigsmile:



kwalikum said:


> Oh, and I've used the projector a couple more times in a spare room in the house. Happy with the screen quality but still concerned about the noise and the heat! When I was testing in the shed the heat wasn't trapped in but running it in a small inside room it gets cooking hot. I'm hoping the noise will not be such a factor with ceiling mounting and decent movie sound - I'm not sure what else you can do about that beyond getting a quieter projector?


I can think of a couple options here. One - depending on where you mount of course - the eco mode on my ae7000 is whisper quiet - I barely notice it even with no movie running. If yours has eco mode, I would see if that could work.

The second is a hush box. I saw one build in a thread on the other forum by Moggie - it looked like a bit of work went into it - but in the end, no projector noise.



kwalikum said:


> Regarding the heat, I'm thinking of a simple split system on the back wall where I have a good spot for the compressor unit outside will do the trick. I've read a bit about DIY for this installation and it seems like the smart money is on getting a professional in to do it, but it all comes out of the budget so time will tell. With a starting budget of around 5k, just cooling the room might eat up 20%.


This is what bogged me down for a month or so. Initially, it was suggested to run an ERV unit and that would be sufficient to keep the room at a comfortable temp. But, as you are seeing with yours, I was also worried about the room getting too warm. 

In the end, I also decided on a ductless mini splt system. I am not sure what the rules are down by you, but since there are refrigerant lines, I have to have mine professionally installed which probably is not a bad thing as I would be incredibly uncomfortable doing that myself.


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## kwalikum (Oct 31, 2011)

Thanks ALM. I can't believe I missed that post a month ago - I should really pay more attention to my own thread (but that would mean paying less to others...). I did read up on yours today and I notice you've passed me now. Looking good so far!

I haven't spent much time with mine except to square up the walls and bolt them down. I had to move a couple lights that were no longer in the right place and put a temporary power point inside the room to save on extension cords. Next item is the ceiling. Long weekend here so with luck I'll get some rafters up and I can finish the electrical wiring. I'll take your advice on the walls and leave them un-plastered as much as possible.

I had a thought about a hush box but didn't know that's what they were called. Read up on them a bit - might be a nice project a bit later. For now I've got a ceiling mount and it does have an eco mode altho I can't remember if it was on when I was getting annoyed at it. Having it right next to my head probably didn't help either.

I had to look up ERV also - never heard of them before. Wouldn't help my situation (unless I'm misunderstanding) because the shed/outside air temperature is unlikely to be what I'm wanting inside the HT. I read all about split system installs and what-not. Apparently the rules in AU say your average guy can do everything *except* release the charged gas the unit comes with. There is considerable debate about that and there seems to be a bit of a divide between the DIY'ers on this one given the risk of losing the gas and polluting the skies with it in turn.


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## kwalikum (Oct 31, 2011)

Few new questions have cropped up if anyone can shed some light:

1) Will an unfinished, none sound-proof, no door version of my HT give me enough info on speaker placement so I can run cable to exactly the right place, or do I merely use that as a guide and will have to run thru it all again once the room is finished (and furnished), and potentially re-locate cables? I'm aiming for wall-mounted speakers so if the cable is not in the right place it's gonna look ugly...

2) Sub placement is probably my biggest worry. I was told to run lots of cable, which is no problem, I have a part roll of coax that will do the trick. Do I just run a couple rings around the room so no matter where I end up placing the sub I can poke into the wall, cut the cable, and terminate the appropriate end, or is there another trick I'm missing?

3) I was looking at wall plates again today and I can't help but notice most of them have female connectors on the *inside* as well as the outside (or binding posts, for example). Is it considered old-school now to have different terminals (say, for RCAs where I would have expected a solder or screw-type terminal)? Does everyone just buy those slide-on-crimp-type RCA plugs for the end of bare coax?

Thanks!


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

kwalikum said:


> Thanks ALM. I can't believe I missed that post a month ago - I should really pay more attention to my own thread (but that would mean paying less to others...). I did read up on yours today and I notice you've passed me now. Looking good so far!
> 
> I haven't spent much time with mine except to square up the walls and bolt them down. I had to move a couple lights that were no longer in the right place and put a temporary power point inside the room to save on extension cords. Next item is the ceiling. Long weekend here so with luck I'll get some rafters up and I can finish the electrical wiring. I'll take your advice on the walls and leave them un-plastered as much as possible.
> 
> ...


The main thing about the hush box is that you will need to provide some way to vent it. So, I would suggest making sure you try eco-mode while you still have access to be able to construct a way to vent that box.

You are right - the ERV won't help much if the outside temp is warmer - it is mainly designed to supply "fresh" air. It was only suggested to me since I could pull air from the other areas of the basement which would always be cooler.



kwalikum said:


> Few new questions have cropped up if anyone can shed some light:
> 
> 1) Will an unfinished, none sound-proof, no door version of my HT give me enough info on speaker placement so I can run cable to exactly the right place, or do I merely use that as a guide and will have to run thru it all again once the room is finished (and furnished), and potentially re-locate cables? I'm aiming for wall-mounted speakers so if the cable is not in the right place it's gonna look ugly...


IMO - probably not. Enclosing the space will create a significantly different sound field. Are you planning to wall mount all your speakers or just the surrounds?



kwalikum said:


> 2) Sub placement is probably my biggest worry. I was told to run lots of cable, which is no problem, I have a part roll of coax that will do the trick. Do I just run a couple rings around the room so no matter where I end up placing the sub I can poke into the wall, cut the cable, and terminate the appropriate end, or is there another trick I'm missing?


What I did in my room was to install 4 different sub connection points pretty much as close to the 4 corners as I could. I made sure to allow for passive (standard speaker jack) as well as powered connections (electrical outlet / RCA connection). This way, I can perform a true sub crawl and still have a place to connect the sub no matter where I locate it while being able to cut down the amount of "visible" cabling. As a plus, should you ever choose to go to 4 subs...... :devil:



kwalikum said:


> 3) I was looking at wall plates again today and I can't help but notice most of them have female connectors on the *inside* as well as the outside (or binding posts, for example). Is it considered old-school now to have different terminals (say, for RCAs where I would have expected a solder or screw-type terminal)? Does everyone just buy those slide-on-crimp-type RCA plugs for the end of bare coax?
> 
> Thanks!


That is what I have been using - I do plan to use the wall plates with the female connectors on both sides for RCA / banana plug connections.


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## kwalikum (Oct 31, 2011)

ALMFamily said:


> IMO - probably not. Enclosing the space will create a significantly different sound field. Are you planning to wall mount all your speakers or just the surrounds?


Ok, so the space will be mostly enclosed by the four walls. The two exterior walls will be un-plastered but they will have solid walls behind the new stud walls. Ceiling un-plastered but with flooring above it (storage space above the HT), and the two interior walls (interior to the shed, not the HT) will be plastered on the inside leaving the outside un-plastered to run cables and what-not. Door probably won't be on but I suppose I could put something temporary there.

Does that bring close enough to finished to run some reasonable tests?

I'm looking at the smaller klipsch speakers which are all wall mountable (5.0). My current sub appears to be broken so I'll need to get something there, and my theory is as money permits I can look to a 7.1 amp and replace the L/C/R wall mounted with something more substantial, re-using two of them for rears.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

Well, I am by no means an expert (I assume by readings we are talking about REW), but I think that your results would be different since the reflection points would change. I am not sure how much though - hopefully someone with a lot more knowledge with either REW or room acoustics will chime in here.....


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## kwalikum (Oct 31, 2011)

Some good progress this weekend. Put flooring on the existing rafters to make attic storage above the HT room, and a new set of rafters to hang the ceiling on. I took a couple photos of the staggered wall and ceiling but probably not terribly interesting to most. Put about half the noggins in and ran some more cable - power, lighting, network, coax. When the shed was built I ran some cat5 cable underground, and I have a bunch of cat5 in the house as well, so the plan is to add the shed to the wired network and a wireless access point for the HT. I'll also have a wired point in the HT for any devices that might need it.

  

I bought a 7.1 binding post + rca + hdmi wall plate from monoprice. I'll leave most of the cables in the wall and fish them out as/when I need them instead of having unused wall plates everywhere. I picked up enough plaster to do the two bare inside walls so the next chance I get I'll put that up and the room will be enclosed! Looking forward to that step, I must say!


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## kwalikum (Oct 31, 2011)

Don't know if I mentioned at any point but I'm looking at a basic X10 unit for lighting controls. I plan on having a central-ish room light for brighter lighting, and making some step shaped cornice about a foot below the ceiling with enough space behind for a hidden rope light all around the room. I'll put the rope light on a dimmer and I think that will just about cover it. The ceiling will be plaster but trimmed to make square highlights. I'm not sure exactly what that style is called. Hopefully it will be a nice, classic, look and give me enough lighting options. I can always add some downlights or whatever if it doesn't work out well enough - plenty of access to the ceiling space.


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## kwalikum (Oct 31, 2011)

Oh, one more thing - I've used some straps to square up the bare walls but the long side sways under pressure way too much for my liking. I'm not sure if the plaster will be enough to stiffen the walls but I'm thinking I should connect the inside wall(s) to the existing rafter. I was hoping to avoid this due to sound transmission, but better to have everything nice and solid. Part of my problem may be that I didn't use a single 5.4m length for the top plate because it's too hard to get home, so I joined two pieces instead.

My previous post has a photo of the top plate and rafters I'm talking about.

So... I'm looking for some solid rubber blocks to jam in between the top of my inside wall (room within a room) and the existing rafters. Does anyone have experience with this sort of thing? Will the friction between the two be enough to stop the swaying or would they require some sort of fixing? Any recommendations on what sort of rubber to use and where to get it from? Or any other suggestions?


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## kwalikum (Oct 31, 2011)

Wow! Been the better part of a year since my last post and more than a year since I started. Just to keep a bit of flow from my last post I ended up adding some bracing to the ceiling and everything tightened up nicely. I guess the rest of the build just slowly chugged along with nothing particularly difficult or interesting. Here's the result:





Colour scheme was selected using the original 3D view from floorplanner.com put in pixlr.com and flood filled with various options using some of the completed builds that I liked. We picked some second hand carpet tiles and then some low-sheen paint samples based on that (per the forum sticky on picking colours). I love the finished colours (below) other than how the black shows my lack of plastering skills .

 

For lighting I wanted something fairly bright so I can use the room for activities other than movies - a standard fluro does the job at least for now. I also wanted some dim strip lighting so I made some cornice with a few strips of timber with a gap against the wall. Nail that up and drop some lights behind. Easy done. It has a very warm glow about it.

 

 

 

The ceiling was done partly because I like the old fashioned look, and partly because I was doing it by myself and too lazy to hire a lift or joint on the ceiling. Instead I cut and installed plaster squares individually and then covered the joins with a strip of timber.

 

 

 

 

And that's where I'm at. I'm hoping to sort out a screen this weekend. My projector does surprisingly well on the black front wall! The projector is a bit noisy tho. I don't have a proper sub yet either - I'm using a cobbled together passive sub and single channel off a spare receiver/amp.

I've been keeping a budget if that interests anyone starting out. Any other questions I'm happy to answer also if I can.


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## kwalikum (Oct 31, 2011)

Just realised one of the finished photos was supposed to have the cornice lights on but none did.



So far I've just been hooking up my WDTV Live networked back to the house as a media player. Wii is going in too for the kids once the screen is on. Oh, and furniture. It's a mish-mash of leftovers at the moment but we'll get there. I haven't done anything with A/C yet as it remains remarkably cool inside. It's 40 degrees in Melbourne right now (105F) and was almost the same yesterday but it's not bad in the theatre.


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## ALMFamily (Oct 19, 2011)

That is looking fantastic mate! :T

I really like how you did the ceiling - it adds a bit of depth to it.


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Looking very nice! :T Interesting choice of colours..
I think I would have painted the ceiling black, rather than introducing another colour..


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## kwalikum (Oct 31, 2011)

Thanks guys. I picked up some melamine for a screen and have to mount it to test before any matte sealer. I have a DLP projector so from what I've read I should expect it to be a bit bright.


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