# Mitsubishi DLP XX731, XX732, XX831



## Cap'n Preshoot

Looked around and didn't see a thread for the new Mits DLPs so maybe we need to start one. AVS Forum is certainly all abuzz about them.

I've recently been to the daddy's toy store  and seen both the Mits 57731 and 65731 models and by Labor Day the '732' models of the same sets are expected to be in the stores. Well, in some stores anyway. The 732 is the Medallion series which means they probably won't be in places like Circuit City (CC) and Best Buy (BB) etc. However, stores like Tweeter, HH Gregg, Home Theater Store, Bjorn's etc. should have them.

If the 57731 and 65731 are any indication, the upscale 732 series of these sets should be magnificent. So magnificent that I signed an order for a 65732, sight unseen. If that isn't faith I don't know what is.

I can hardly wait. According to my dealer the 732 series Mits should begin showing up late this month (Aug) just in time for the Labor Day weekend.

Anxiously waiting.....
Bill


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## MrPorterhouse

Sounds good. Here's a link to the 65732. http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/j/i/18326/TelevisionDetails.html?cid=386

The new Sony SXRD's will run head to head as well. These are some amazing displays here. Quite a leap from where we were a few years ago. Here'a link to the Sony 60" XBR2 http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/SY_DisplayProductInformation-Start?ProductSKU=KDSR60XBR2&Dept=tvvideo&CategoryName=tv_ProjectionTVs_RearProjection_55to80TVs


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## Cap'n Preshoot

I saw the XBR2 running alongside the Mits 65731. The Sony had slightly better blacks but there were some trace fast-motion artifacts in the Sony (a ball being pitched) that were not there in the Mits. I'm told the 732 and 831 Mitsus have a feature called "Dark Detailer" which allegedly boosts their contrast ratio 4X what it is without it. Also the 732 series Mits comes in gloss black stead of the dark silver.

Circuit City (CC) has a "similar" model Mits in a satin black finish but does not have the dark detailer feature. I think it's just a black 731 with a proprietary stock number.

The Mits 831 series has 20% higher wattage lamp (180w) and a new high contrast screen. Those who report seeing the new 65831 at the Line shows claim the silk screen effect (SSE) is completely gone in the 831.

The WD-65831 Mits is $4199 MSRP less whatever deals you can make. The WD-65732 that I have ordered is $3699 again less whatever deals you can make. Looks like right now everyone is offering a flat 10% off across the board.

Unfortunately the 57732 and 65732 and comparable 831 models are not in stock yet, tho the 732's are expected to be in sometime this week. Some stores have the 73732 buy I've been told it still uses the same 3 color wheel as last year's models. If you want the new 6-color system it's only in the 57 and 65 inch models.


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## lcaillo

I see the Sony SXRDs next to the Mits sets every day and there are things that both do well. Overall, I have to rate them as more similar than different. If I were buying one or the other I would have to go witht he DLP for the simplicity of the light path and the fact that the mits uses osram lamps.


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## Cap'n Preshoot

What can you tell us about the cost of the 150w and 180w lamps for the Mits 731, 732, 831? Is there any way to "get it wholesale"?

I've also heard it (the lamp) can be a consumer-replaceable item for those so inclined. What's you're opinion?


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## lcaillo

The lamp for the WD-65731 (150W) part # 915P049010 is $249 retail from Mitsubishi. Dealer cost is $200 so there is little margin in it. Typically the Mits prices have been the best for the lamps. For instance, Optoma used the same lamp as found in earlier model Mits DLPs and are much more expensive than the same lamp from Mitsubishi. The 180W lamp for the 831 is the same price, part #915P049020.

Mitsubishi does not sell parts through distributors but does sell at retail to consumers. Their prices have been very reasonable.

The lamps have been user replaceable and very easy to change. I have not looked at the new sets yet in this respect but I am sure they will remain so. We do service training on them next month.


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## Cap'n Preshoot

Thanks Leonard!!


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## Cap'n Preshoot

Another question for you Leonard.

Feature and cosmetic differences between the 65731, 65732 and 65831 notwithstanding, the 65831 (per Mits' preliminary feature list) is touted as having the 180w lamp. Knowing that a lot of Mfr's use the same basic chassis with only software feature and cosmetic differences, the question is can I replace the 150w lamp in the 65732 with a 180w lamp and if so what might be the difference(s) or possible perils of doing so?


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## lcaillo

A fool's errand...need to know whether there is sufficient cooling, if the color temp will be the same, drive levels, etc. Besides, compared to the CRT set that you are used to you will need to wear sunglasses to watch the 150W lamp at full output.


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## Cap'n Preshoot

I figured that, but had to ask, albeit possibly premature, since I'm assuming you haven't had your hands inside one yet. I would agree on your statement re singlasses & the 150. In "brilliant" mode it is already too much for the average viewing room. The "bright" setting looks to be the best.


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## Cap'n Preshoot

Tweeter's delivered my new WD-65732 today.

Hooked up the H20 sat receiver via one of the HDMI inputs using a $16.95 HDMI cable from svideo dot com (yes, $16.95 remember that web site!). Absolutely magnificent PQ.

Of course it came already pre-set in torch mode, but after taming it down it is truly a great unit.


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## lcaillo

I would consider contacting Jeff Meier at
http://www.accucal.org/
and discuss calibration to get the most out of your set, or at least get to know the adjustments using the available test discs.


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## Cap'n Preshoot

Way ahead of you. 

I have already made a tentative appointment through Jeff for a pro calibration once we get some hours on the lamp. Jeff suggested 40 hrs burn-in time should be sufficient.

Which brings up something else.
Is routine/periodic cleaning needed? We have several fur-bearing pets that do a fair job of clogging the furnace filter long before it would ordinarily need to be replaced. Any special consideration needed for the Mits? - and if so, is this anything that might be in the scope of things an owner could do? Also, any suggestions on thwarting ingress of pet fur, dust, etc?


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## Cap'n Preshoot

Does anyone happen to have the SM codes for the new Mits sets? - The ones posted over on AVS do not work on the new sets.

Thanks


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## lcaillo

Option Menu - MENU 2,4,7,0

Service Menu - MENU 2,4,5,7


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## Cap'n Preshoot

Many thanks Leonard!


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## Guest

I know this thread has been quiet for some time but I would to revisit it. I have just recently purchased the Mits WD 65732. While the picture is generally very good the silk screen effect is quite bad at times.

I have followed the calibration tips posted in the Mits tips thread over on AVS but the SSE is still there and seems worse on occasion. Is this a problem that can be solved with a complete ISF calibration or are certain people doomed to always see some SSE (ala rainbow effect on early DLP's). It doesn't really bother my wife or kids but it's one of things that just bugs me.

Any help or information would be appreciated.

Thanks, 
Explorerman


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## lcaillo

Calibration will do little to affect your perception of SSE.


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## Cap'n Preshoot

explorerman said:


> I know this thread has been quiet for some time but I would to revisit it. I have just recently purchased the Mits WD 65732. While the picture is generally very good the silk screen effect is quite bad at times.


If you see it, you see it. It's an optical illusion. Per the several discussion threads on AVSforum regarding the new Mits DLP sets, SSE and RBE are virtually non-existent unless your brain tricks your eyes into seeing it. For those who see it the only solution is a different technology, i.e. Sony's triple chip rear projection (Grand WEGA) or plasma. Professional calibration may or may not help, by which time you're another $3~400 deep into it. I've never seen RBE or SSE in my 65732. It has been pro-calibrated, but I never saw the aberration before calibration either.


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## Guest

Thanks for the info.
I kind of guessed it was along the lines of RBE. If I don't think about it I don't really notice it, but when I do notice it I REALLY notice it. Problem is that now I have seen SSE I am actively looking for it when watching the TV :rubeyes: 
Ah well, I'll just have to deal with it.

Thanks again,

Explorerman


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## Guest

Well after a little over 4 months I am now getting the "air flow" message.
I called the service number for the dealer I bought the set from. They can't come out for 4 days 
I'm going to try some of the quick fixes (reset, unplug for 20 mins etc) I have read about to atleast get the TV running over the weekend.

I'll post what the service tech tells me.

Explorerman


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## lcaillo

It is not uncommon for these sets to need the connector inline with the thermal sensor cleaned and reconnected or the sensor replaced. I also suggest moving the connector as far from the lamp assembly as possible.


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## Guest

lcaillo said:


> It is not uncommon for these sets to need the connector inline with the thermal sensor cleaned and reconnected or the sensor replaced. I also suggest moving the connector as far from the lamp assembly as possible.


Leonard,
Thanks for the reply.
Is it possible to do this myself without removing the whole back of the set? I don't mind pulling out the lamp assembly but any further than that is a no go for me.

Explorerman


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## lcaillo

Not without taking the back off. If it is under warranty let Mits pay to have it done.


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## Guest

10-4.
Thanks Leonard. The problem is sporadic right now and the service tech is scheduled for Tuesday.

Thanks again,

Explorerman


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## LNG7

lcaillo said:


> Not without taking the back off. If it is under warranty let Mits pay to have it done.


Do you need to take the back off from the 73732 to move the connector away from the lamp assembly?


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## lcaillo

I am not sure if it can be moved much on that model, but yes, you have to take the back of on all the sets to get to any of the connectors.


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## LNG7

My new 73732 was working fine for one day. Now, when I turn it on after it's been off for a day, the picture initially comes on as a blurry split screen and only becomes correct after I change a channel. Then the picture is fine. Any ideas what the problem 
is?


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## lcaillo

What source are you using? What is the resolution setting on the source? What input?


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## LNG7

I am using cable box W/ HDMI output to TV. I did a ssystem reset yesterday and that seemed to correct the problem. This set is great. I just need to tweak the colors a bit. as per your advice on these forums.


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## lcaillo

What cable box and what resolution settings? The more info you post, the more likely you will find someone who has experience with your problem.

Have you found my suggestions for settings that I posted on AVS?


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## LNG7

It is a Motorola HD Cable box and my resolution is 1080i.
I am still looking for your settings thru the service menu on AVS. Can you link me to a specific thread?


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## lcaillo

This is the link

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9504265&highlight=magenta+cyan+blue#post9504265

and this is most of the text of the post:

Sharing settings is something that everyone wants to do, but just transferring settings is quite pointless. The probablility is that others settings will be worse than if you make your own visual judgements regarding the settings. 

That said, there are some trends that can get you going in the right direction from OOB conditions. Since people keep asking and keep trading numbers (and likely going in circles) here are some recommdations based on lots of sets. First, understand that adjusting PT and PC is pointless if gray scale is not correct and it is very difficult without a meter. The OOB gray scale on these sets is over 10000K for high and under 6000K for low color temp settings. The first thing you want to do is to get the gray scale as close as possible. Here is what you should do if you don't have a meter.

First, turn SharpEdge OFF, picture mode to Natural, leave contrast at max, sharpness to 0, NR OFF or LOW, DFI OFF, and set the black level so that blacks are just black and you maintain detail in dark areas. Start with color at 0 and increase until flesh tones look most normal but no further. This will usually be no higher than about 25 on the range of the control.

Set CT to LOW. Go to the service menu and set the blue gain (GBL) up 40-60 points from wherever it started. This will get your gray scale closer to 6500K. DO NOT transfer other peoples settings here. They are more likely to be wrong than an improvement. Now look at the gray scale and it should look more gray compared to more yellow before, but not looking blue. I chose an increase of 40 because this should get most people closer to 6500K without overshooting. Nearly all of the sets come in with too little blue on the low temp.

Set CT to HIGH. Got to the service menu and set the blue (GBH) down by 80 points from wherever it is. This will put the high CT somewhere around 7500K. This is a good compromise for those who don't like the lower CT and are accustomed to the cooler look of stock TVs.

These are not going to give precise results, but on average, it should improve the gray scale for most people. Check it visually with a gray scale pattern. If it is not an improvement then go back and decide where you need to be based on the impressions from the above exercse. Interpolate as needed.

Now, once gray scale is closer, you can use the following trends as a starting point for PT adjustments to get the secondaries closer. This is where the big errors are. Again, none of this is going to substitute for an instrumented calibration, but it will get you closer, as opposed to randomly transferring numbers from another set. I use PT and not PC here because the larger and more predictable effects will be found there, and they are harder for most people to get right. These ASSUME gray scale is pretty close. If it is off, you could be going in the wrong direction.

For the LOW CT:

Increase Magenta PT to 40.
Decrease Red PT to 26.
Decrease Yellow PT to 26.
Increase Cyan to 40.

Now, go back and look at the pix and if you make adjustments do so one at a time to get used to what they do to the pix or test patterns. Start with the stock settings and verify that the above get you an improvement rather than a decrement in performance. Use the halfway rule (go half as far as you think you need to go) for adjustments and use successive approximation to get closer.

Understand that your set has not been predisely calibrated, but it should be closer to standard than it came out of the box. This is based on observations of trends over many sets. The trends are pretty consistent and often sufficient to get you moving in the right direction. Copying someone else's settings may cause you to overshoot or make your problem worse. The adjustments suggested deal with the biggest and most consistent errors compared to industry standards. There are more and more detailed adjustments to be done if you want to get it right, but they require experience, or at least a lot of time, diligence, organization, and patience, and the right instrumentation.


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## LNG7

After having my 73732 up and running with the suggested settings, everything looks great except I am receiving my HD signels thru a cable box and the TV is showing 
1080i and not 1080p. Is this the cable signel or the TV?


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## lcaillo

The image you are watching is 1080P. The display that you see indicates that the signal reaching the set is 1080i. If your cable box has the capability it should be set to pass through the native resolution of the source, allowing the Mits to upconvert it without conversion in the box.


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## Guest

Hi folks, I just wanted to pass along some info from a satisfied Mits customer.

I know you folks are dealing with the newest generation of these displays but I thought you would like to hear this. I bought my WD52525 52' DLP when it was the new technology coming up on three years ago. I have used it *everyday* mostly as my computer monitor but it does double duty as a home movie theater. It has had zero problems and continues to look great. The kicker is that around the 2 year mark I started getting the warning that the lamp had exceeded its expected life span and I should get a replacement bulb. I did and it has been sitting in the closet unopened in the box for about 6 months. I can't help but wonder just how long this original bulb will last but for as expensive as they are I will just wait till it goes. So until then I will watch the orange light on the front and think, this is such a great set. I know your new sets will probably be as great as mine only better.:bigsmile:


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## lcaillo

We have a client that leaves his set on 24/7 and has a similar model. He has averaged around 7000 hours on the lamps. Cycling power on/off with normal use will reduce the life somewhat. We have been seeing most of these lamps exceed the original 4000 hour rating, and most die somewhere between 4000 and 7000 hours. A few have had a shorter life.

Your post is interesting and confirms my experience as a dealer and servicer. While we probably sold dozens of that series of sets we have changed a handfull of lamps and had very few problems at all. I file a warranty claim with Mitsubishi every couple of months and we sell more of their sets than any other. I don't recall servicing any OOW failures on that series of sets yet.


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## Guest

I have Mitsubishi WD65732.

Can someone please tell me how to activate Closed Caption on the component inputs?

The manual said "no" on this, but maybe there's some other way. I know my cheap RCA TV can do this without any problem.

I certainly don't want to use S-Video or Composite inputs, since the image does look better on component input.

Thanks a million.

Dustin


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## doubeleive

I have a mits 73831 that I purchased in june of this year 2007, the TV has maybe 150 hours? not much more than that, it has spent 90% of its life turned off, I usually only watch dvd's and very little TV programs, my problem is last night I went to watch a little boob tube and it now runs for approx 1 minute "perfectly", then abrubtly shuts off and the red lamp light comes on solid. I can repeat the same process over and over with same result did a system reset, did a bulb reset, same problem, same result. i ordered a new warranty bulb from mits and it should be here friday, my question is: could this really be a bad bulb? or is it possible something else is causing the problem ie other devices connected to the tv? for instance a input panel problem? or power supply issue? Is there any service bulletins out that cover anything about a 1 minute shutoff? I am just ****** that a bulb would go out in less than 4 months and only after very little use. aarrgghhh


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## lcaillo

Lamps fail sometimes. There is no way to know for sure until you replace it, but it is by far the most likely source of your problem. Most Mits lamps have lasted 6000-7000 hours, but as with any lamp, some fail early.


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## doubeleive

ok, well I spoke with a technician and he said if I press the menu and input buttons together after it quits it will give me the error "66" if it is for sure the lamp, but instead it gave me the error "34" anyone know what that error code means?


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## lcaillo

6-6 means the lamp did not start, 3-4 means the lamp shut down after it started. Just change the lamp and don't worry about it unless you continue to have problems.


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## doubeleive

well the bulb came in friday and appears that was the problem, dissapointed that the bulb only lasted 4 months hope it's not a re-occuring problem. thanks for the input & repsonse's.


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## lcaillo

The Mitsubishi lamps have been very good. With any brand you can get a bad one. Don't worry about it if you do not see any other symptoms.


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## Guest

Just got a recall notice on my Mits WD-57831. It is about the "air flow" message and a sensor that has a loose connection. I have not had the problem but in case you are getting this message, know that Mits will fix it.


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## lcaillo

Mitsubishi has extended the warranty on this problem to a total of 3 years. They have a new sensor that they feel has more reliable connections. It is a simple repair but will need to be done by a Mitsubishi ASC.


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## Guest

I have just experienced the dreaded lamp failure. There was no warning, the set just went black and then the red "lamp" light came on. I tried the usual resets but to no avail. I pulled the bulb out and inspected it, the small mesh screen was totally blocked with dry wall dust (we had some remodelling done about 6 months ago) but the large mesh screen was totally clear.
The only other thing that may have contributed to the bulb failure was that we had just bought a new stand for the TV earlier that day and the TV wasn't totally cooled down when we moved it.
It's kind of difficult to tell if the lamp has blown since the only marks I can see on the bulb is a little gray splotch on the main face.

Of course this had to happen at 5pm on Saturday :gah: So now it appears I won't be watching TV until Tuesday at the earliest. I did order a new bulb ordered from dlplampsource, so hopefully they have it in stock and we can be back in action soon raying:

The bulb was only 13 months old but I have 2 young kids and good bulb maintenance is not high on their list of priorities :dontknow:

Roy


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## lcaillo

Let us know how it works out. How many hours do you have on it?


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## Guest

I'm not sure about the hours, I'll check using the MENU +2+4+7+0 when I get the new lamp in.
The only thing that concerns me is that I'm only getting the lamp not the enclosure. I took a look at the enclosure when I had it out the other day and there doesn't appear to be an easy way to take the enclosure apart.

If I remember I'll take pictures of the whole procedure and post them up.

Explorerman


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## Guest

The lamp came today. 

It was surprisingly easy to install, taking about 30 mins. It would have been quicker but the replacement lamp is thicker than the original and the lamp clamps had to be worked to fit right.

Total lamp hours on the initial lamp were 3800+. A lot more than I expected.

Here are some pics of the installation.














































Roy


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## Guest

Continued...








































Roy


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## Cap'n Preshoot

Excellent pics. 

I've done this replacement on our WD-65732 a total of 3 times now & thanks to a Phillips tech note (that I can no longer lay my hands on) I have discovered that it is possible to achieve substantially extended lamp life (7100 hours + and still going) by removing the little lint filter screen on the lamp module.

During previous lamp replacements I always found this little lint filter completely plugged with lint and the lamp mantel was always melted (presumably from heat as a result of restricted ventilation caused by the lint build-up) Operation without this lint filter in place has had no apparent adverse impact while (so far) almost doubling what I had more or less become used to as "normal" failure rate at +/- 4000 hours. We are currently at 15,446 hours with the last failure/replacement (failure #2) at 8305 hours.

I'm using OSHRAM lamps obtained from DLP Lamp Source. I've also never had to clean the optics in the LE in spite of having 3 cats & 2 dogs (but no children)

I still keep a spare lamp and module on hand, all assembled and ready to go in case of disaster some day "during the big game" lddude:


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## LEWISCLAN

Great info as I have the 838 model, but I am having a big problem in trying to get my plastic screen from vibrating when the sub woofers are turned up. ant ideas?


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## allargon

LEWISCLAN said:


> Great info as I have the 838 model, but I am having a big problem in trying to get my plastic screen from vibrating when the sub woofers are turned up. ant ideas?


Have you tried a sub dude under your subwoofers?


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