# A/V Rack



## Tacksman (Oct 14, 2009)

I am looking to recess all my A/V equipment into a wall so it is not sitting out in the opening. I have acess to the back opening of the wall. Does anyone have any pictures of their A/V setup in regards to where it is stored. In particular if you have it recessed into the wall!! I want my recessed in the wall with maybe some glass shelves! I need to get some ideas before I tear into the wall! Dimensions would be great also! Thanks in Advance and to all the Mods...THIS IS A GREAT SITE! :T


----------



## tonyvdb (Sep 5, 2007)

I dont recommend glass shelves, its best to use wire or some sort of open shelving system to allow for better airflow as it will restrict air moment when you put equipment in a recessed location.


----------



## ironglen (Mar 4, 2009)

Hey, I just finished mine- it is SWEET (if I say so myself:sn Sure, it's not equipment wide, but close enough for access to knobs, and all my remotes work:T It is completely custom and is in my closet, behind a wall in the living room, it has six shelves made from plastic-coated wire shelving from lowes/hd and is secured to the 2x4's in front and suspended, yes! suspended from the ceiling by 3/8" x 6' threaded bolts that are bolted to a cross beam across the attic trusses. I've taken pics, I just need to post'em. pm me later this weekend if I haven't posted yet.


----------



## eugovector (Sep 4, 2006)

Can you link the shelving that you used? I'd like to find some shelving about 20"x24" (WxD, I don't think 18" will be wide enough for all equipment) but haven't found anything yet. Can other folks chime in if they are using an inexpensive wire or homemade shelf? Mine will likely be going in a closet so it only has to be functional, not pretty.


----------



## tonyvdb (Sep 5, 2007)

Rubbermaid has wire shelving that is designed for closet organization. They can be cut to any length and mount from the side and back so nice and sturdy. You can find them at Home depot and other stores like them, I think even walmart sells them.


----------



## eugovector (Sep 4, 2006)

Yeah, I was hoping for the easy to assemble free standing wire shelving, but I think I may have to get crafty with some 2x4s.


----------



## ironglen (Mar 4, 2009)

eugovector said:


> Can you link the shelving that you used? I'd like to find some shelving about 20"x24" (WxD, I don't think 18" will be wide enough for all equipment) but haven't found anything yet. Can other folks chime in if they are using an inexpensive wire or homemade shelf? Mine will likely be going in a closet so it only has to be functional, not pretty.


I hope my post didn't imply that it was pretty :rolleyesno: It's not. :neener::rofl: But it's functional in that it holds ~120lbs of equipment, maintains circulation, allows easy rear panel access, and isn't an eyesore from the living room view. Plus it was pretty cheap to boot. Only problem I had was a shorter (less deep) than usual amp that sagged on its shelf, so I slid a stiff panel underneath that one-problem solved. I just made sure the hot stuff with under/over vents had room while the fan cooled amp/cooler components didn't matter.


----------



## ironglen (Mar 4, 2009)

Ok, got the pics, although some are not as clear as I'd like, but you can get the idea. As I said, I used a 1 1/8" plywood piece across the trusses that are above the ceiling with the threaded bolts going through them with a washer and nut on each. Otherwise, I used the plastic shelf holders from the store along with metal pipe strapping that I cut to length and wrapped around the wire rack. I used washers and nuts both above and below the metal strapping to 'clamp' it when tightened on the long threaded bolt. I hope you improve on this or do better, and post pics/explanation, because it's kind of tedious putting it together (consider that a forewarning:heehee So far, it is has worked as advertised. I'll have to take pics of the finished in opening and custom door I built for cheap-cheap (though alot of time and:sweat I'm pretty happy with it!


----------



## eugovector (Sep 4, 2006)

Okay, very cool. That's what I was thinking except I was planning on using 2x4s instead of the threaded posts. I'll have to consider if the posts will work better.

Thanks,
Marshall


----------



## ironglen (Mar 4, 2009)

Completed photos::bigsmile:

Note: make absolutely sure there are NO pipes, conduit, ANYTHING in the space you're planning to use. Also, the adjacent studs in mine were crooked, imagine that! But I got the exterior flashing square and hung the door alright, so it isn't noticeable:bigsmile:


----------



## Jon Liu (May 21, 2007)

Nice, I like the idea of having an inlet for equipment only! Nice Outlaw gear, as well!


----------



## eugovector (Sep 4, 2006)

What do you mean by "inlet"?


----------



## Jon Liu (May 21, 2007)

Well, I'd rather have the face of my equipment flush to the wall to save on room space. I don't really like having a furniture cabinet standing out like I do right now.


----------



## eugovector (Sep 4, 2006)

Got it, so you just mean in a closet or cutout. I agree and am anxious to do the same (one we actually get out of our tiny temp apartment) not only for aesthetic reasons, but also for ease of access to the rear of the components, ventilation improvements, and ease of switching in/out new components.


----------



## ironglen (Mar 4, 2009)

Thanks for the compliment- I just got the outlaws as they seemed to be a good deal, add power while allowing for future upgrades, simplify the remote (waf), and satisfy my desires for 2nd zone a bit better (output adjustability). I've been extremely pleased with every piece of equipment I've bought secondhand from here and recently audiogon, but so with ebay sellersaddle:

If we were staying permanently, I'd consider taking one of the 2x4's out and widening the space so the equipment could be flush mounted. As is, the equipment faces are covered a bit more than I'd prefer, but all the switches/knobs are accessible, so I guess not a bit deal.

This picture is of my worst, I mean first attempt at an equipment 'rack'; when I was super-cheap, and lazy, I guess. I couldn't do anything with connections and it was an all-around pita, so now I have to repair the drywall:foottap:

If I learned anything, it was don't skimp too much as I've had to buy and re-run cables that were too short-another major pita:rolleyesno: Now I just have to figure out how to tidy-up the cables (any helpful advice?)


----------



## eugovector (Sep 4, 2006)

So it this a rental, or just a house that you won't be living in for more than a year or two?

For tidying up cables, get yourself lots of plastic cables ties and some sidecutters, or velcro. You have the perfect setup, just bundle your AV/Speaker cables on one side and your power on another. I wish I wasn't living out of suitcases and typing on my old laptop, or I'd try to draw you a picture.

Let's say you have a rack, starting from the top component 1 on shelf 1, next down, component 2 on shelf 2, 3, 4 and so on. Let's say you want to run all your AV to the right and your power to the left. Take the power cables from component 1 and route them down to shelf 1, take power from comp 2 and route it up to shelf 1. Tie both of those power cables to shelf 1 and run them to the left. Shelf 1 is a power cable shelf.

Take the AV cables from comp 2 and run the down to shelf to, AV cables from comp 3 up to shelf 2, tie and run to the right. Shelf 2 is an AV shelf, shelf 3 is power, shelf 4 is AVR and so on.

The whole goal is to avoid running your av and power together/near each other.

Seriously, somebody help me out and draw a picture. Thanks in advance.


----------



## ironglen (Mar 4, 2009)

I think I got you on the routing.

This is a home my wife and I are in; but I'll -eventually- finish my phd and have to move for a professor job (I hope). I've got to finish as jobs here stink for me otherwise. Tough since I've worked hard at getting this home the way I like it with ht, tiling floors, etc. oh well, I keeping telling myself the improvements will increase selling value...good luck to you in getting into a home- you really need one to set things up the way you like (and make mistakes along the way:bigsmile


----------



## eugovector (Sep 4, 2006)

I'm planning on making mistakes and video/photo/podcasting them along the way for everyone to learn from/shake their heads at. I think I'm only a couple weeks away from getting a job, and hopefully we are less than 2 months away from getting out of this tiny apartment and into something more permanent (hopefully a house).


----------



## Tacksman (Oct 14, 2009)

I ended up going down to a damaged freight place and picked up a base cabinet 125 bucks! I esseentially cut a hole in the wall and slid the cabinet back! I am going with glass shelves when i have a little cash! Cost is about 25 bucks per shelf. I dont buy into not putting glass shevles in b/c of restricted air flow! With the front of the cabinet open there will be plenty of air flow! 

Here is a picture prior to me staining it or painting it. TYhe one advantage of this cabinet is that it offers me storage below. I am waiting on my 50 ft. HDMI cable then I can put the rest of the componesrts in the shelve.

Well i have to figure out how to post pics first!!!:huh:








lets see if this works!


----------



## Tacksman (Oct 14, 2009)

Second Pic.....


----------



## Tacksman (Oct 14, 2009)




----------



## Bent (May 24, 2006)

I did a "under the stairwell" version of Larry Fine's "Finerack" from AVScience, slotted shelf rails screwed to the studs from the rear and shelf bracket installed in them, and pine shelving.
I cut a hole and re-framed a door frame-stock as the edge, then molding applied on the outside.


----------



## the_diyr (Sep 16, 2009)

I have about the same idea , I am using 2 inch metal conduit with slots cut in it and the metal shelves slid into the slota and tack welded.. Then I am painting the whole thing black since it will be mounted by th tv and speakers.. I sort of want it to match.. I also may use 2x2's if I dont feel like welding I have a really neat design for a 2x2 lumber shelf system with metal shelves


----------



## cbarrett (Sep 10, 2009)

here is what I used. I have it in a closet that is on the side wall of the theater. 

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053


----------



## cbarrett (Sep 10, 2009)

with the logitech 900 i just got everything works great and is out of sight.


----------



## cbarrett (Sep 10, 2009)

Greg,
the cabinet looks great. I would suggest trimming the edge of the shelves on the left or right sides, about 1/2 " so air can flow and possibly put a small hole 2"x2" in the top rear corner of the cabinet and use an exhaust fan to vent it, that way it won't overheat your componants.


----------



## Tacksman (Oct 14, 2009)

Good Idea Chad! i still plan on going Glass shelves but I do understand about getting a little more airflow to it! I can put a fan in it in the top of the unit also! Thanks everyone for your input on this! Didnt know i would start such a long thread! I like your set up Ben! Also what do you think about me painting the inside of the cabinet Black? I also want to cover up the shelve holes in the back, but not make them unusable! Cant wait for my HDMI cable!


----------



## the_diyr (Sep 16, 2009)

Chad I like that shelf from Home Depot I may go check it out tommorrow .. I would need to mod it a little. But it may work


----------



## cbarrett (Sep 10, 2009)

The nice thing about it is when you put it together, which is very easy and no tools needed, you can set the shelves at what ever heigths you want.


----------



## eugovector (Sep 4, 2006)

This is the kind that I was looking at, but at 14" deep, it's not deep enough for many AVRs and other components. A20"x20" would be about ideal, but the closest I came was 24"x24" and that was from an online retailer who wanted nearly $100 for a 3 shelf.


----------

