# Optoma HD20



## custard

i have made the jump from 720p to 1080p and bought the hd20 to replace my the optoma hd65 i have. 

delivery was received this morning so i hastily set it up to my 1080i source.
i took some pics with the projector set to the default reference and some ambient light present.




























the reference setting is supposed to be as close to D65 as posssible. i'll test that as a starting point with a colorimeter when night falls.


----------



## custard

i was asked by a member in the uk to try and compare performance of my old and new projector

the pics are not the best...

*HD20 on the left, HD65 on the right.*

the HD65 has less than 50hrs on its current bulb.




*firstly a comparison of the hd20 on reference default and the hd65 at my own calibrated setting. 

note that the contrast/brilliant color on the hd65 had to be reduced to achieve a calibration i was happy with, and to remove the artifacts i use to see in bright scenes.*







































*in the next set the HD20 was left at reference but the hd65 setting was changed to bright default.*


----------



## Prof.

The HD20 screenshots look very good and very natural, particularly for the factory default settings..
Optoma has obviously stabilised the colour balance now in that model..

The HD65 on the other hand has a very exaggerated colour scale out of the box, and it's well known that it takes some 200 hours for it to stabilise..
From my own experience with the HD65, I wasn't able to get anywhere near the correct colour balance until 150 hrs of running.
Now it's at nearly 200 hrs,.and the colour balance looks excellent..:T

Whilst screenshots comparisons are interesting, they don't really give a true picture unless both projectors have been professionally calibrated..

I would be interested to hear of your opinion about the difference in the definition between the two..bearing in mind that the HD65 is 720p. and the HD20 is 1080p..


----------



## custard

The biggest difference are whiter whites and image clarity. blacks are about the same.

i am able to sit much closer now without noticing SDE. the other point of note is that the grey ramp is smooth out the box unlike the hd65.

IMO the move up to 1080p was definitely worth the outlay.


----------



## Prof.

custard said:


> i am able to sit much closer now without noticing SDE. the other point of note is that the grey ramp is smooth out the box unlike the hd65.
> 
> IMO the move up to 1080p was definitely worth the outlay.


Yeah..that was one thing I don't like about the HD65..You can't get an even grey ramp pattern..no matter what you set the contrast and brightness to..
It doesn't seem to affect the image though..

The HD20 sounds like a nice entry level 1080p projector..


----------



## custard

using PS3 media server i projected some 1920x1080 stills. camera was set on custom white balance (still not exact though to what i see in person).
the white side wall reflections are a problem for me which is why the projection wall is grey. i have partially calibrated the PJ. 

hope the pics are better! photobucket downsizing of images is a bit of a problem.


----------



## Prof.

Very nice custard...
Are these still out of the box settings?

I would strongly recommend that you blackout as much as possible..around the screen perimeter, and along the sidewalls and ceiling, out from the front of the screen..similar to what Al Briscoe did..
This makes a huge difference to the perceived contrast..


----------



## custard

Prof. said:


> Very nice custard...
> Are these still out of the box settings?
> 
> I would strongly recommend that you blackout as much as possible..around the screen perimeter, and along the sidewalls and ceiling, out from the front of the screen..similar to what Al Briscoe did..
> This makes a huge difference to the perceived contrast..


i have partially calibrated as the reference setting was abit on the cold side.

you'll have to tell the missus that i need to paint/add a black border to her lounge wall and add curtains or darken the side walls.:heehee:


----------



## Prof.

custard said:


> you'll have to tell the missus that i need to paint/add a black border to her lounge wall and add curtains or darken the side walls.:heehee:


Oh..I see! That's a pity..:sad:
Maybe some of this!! :kiss: :heehee:


----------



## custard

Prof. said:


> Oh..I see! That's a pity..:sad:
> Maybe some of this!! :kiss: :heehee:


well :kiss: has not helped me so maybe :spend: will work instead.

heres the calibration i have acheived so far. the color gamut is the one that is proving difficult.

































































the settings i have with 37 hours on the lamp.
mode: user
contrast: 47
brightness: 38
color: 53
tint: 46
sharpness: 8
noise reduction: 0
gamma: standard
curve type: 1
offset: -2
color temp: warm
red gain: 5
green gain: 0
blue gain: -5
red bias: -1
green bias: 0
blue bias: 0
lamp bright mode: off


----------



## Prof.

Custard..I wouldn't worry too much about colour balance at this stage..
If the HD20 is anything like the HD65..you'll need to have at least 150hrs. on the lamp before it stabilises..

I found my original calibrations were way off after I had reached 170hrs.and after re-calibrating, I now have an excellent well balanced image..


----------



## custard

thanks for the advice Prof.

i expect the calibration setting to change afair bit upto 150hrs as i have already noticed a change in readings between now and when i first had the projector.


i'll stick with what i have for now.


----------



## rannalf

Just curious....since the price is close to equal (I think), what would be your take (either of you) on a comparison of the HD20 and the Epson HC720. I know some have had problems with bulb life in the Optomas in the past, but if I could go 1080p vs. 720p, would there be any downside?


----------



## Prof.

Well firstly you're looking at two totally different projectors..

The HD20 is a DLP..and the HC720 is an LCD..
That's your first consideration, as to what type of system you prefer..

I've heard very good reports about both units, particularly for entry level projectors..
The HC720 is the brighter of the two, so if you have any ambient light considerations, or planning on using a grey screen, then that's something to take into account..

Optoma's certainly don't have a good reputation for lamp life..

The difference between 1080p and 720p. is debatable..
Some say that you can see the difference quite clearly, others say that they can't see any difference..particularly at this level of projector..with both types having low contrast ratio's..

If you're not able to see both units in operation (and then they would have to be viewed in the same environment) all you can do is go on other peoples experience with each type..


----------



## rannalf

Thanks for the reply, Prof. I agree with having to go on reviews/advice, since I don't have any place to demo them. Do you know if I buy the 720 in the Shack store (Amazon), if they include the extra bulb?


----------



## Prof.

The Shack store doesn't seem to have that model listed yet..


----------



## kiwi_guy

Hello all,
Was contemplating purchasing the HD70 for a long time... mainly as a companion for my xbox360 because of rave reviews, pricing and well they look like a match made in heaven; then I stumble across this forum and to my delight Optoma have again brought true HD to the masses.
My problem is I live in New Zealand. We here are blessed with great people, great scenery but completely ridiculous pricing for technology (if they ever get here). For example the HD70 still retails for $NZ2699 (US$1850 ***).
Now by chance my girlfriend travels frequently through Alaska and Florida for her job on a cruise liner so my question is:
Would you recommend I get one of these from the States for the low low price of $US999 (or better) or do you foresee problems in my plan to save money?
Here in New Zealand we have PAL-B TV system (dunno if that matters) and run on 220V. I suppose I can get an inverter for power or possibly a replacement cord if the projector is able to be switched between operating voltages.
Warranty is not an issue as I will treat this like my baby.
Thank you all for your time and look forward to comments and advice.


----------



## Prof.

Hi kiwi guy and welcome to the Shack..

It won't be a problem purchasing a projector from the US..
The projector will automatically select the correct voltage and the TV system is not determined by the projector..There is no selection for PAL or NTSC..
This will be set by your TV or set top box..

I recently bought an HD65 from Canada, and all I had to change was the 3 pin plug!

I thought Australian prices were bad, but that's just plain ridiculous!!


----------



## kiwi_guy

Thank you thank you thank you for the prompt reply 
Looks llike xmas is gona come a early this year
Didn't notice you were in Oz... so just to confirm all i will need is a 3pin plug to suit NZ and I am away happy?
if so HD baby in all its glory coming to a home near me soon


----------



## Prof.

All I had to do was to unplug the power cord from my old projector (which had the Oz. 3 pin plug on it) and switch her on!.


----------



## kiwi_guy

Firstly, props for prompt reply
Secondly, at the risk of sounding like a complete noob, do these cords have a "brick" on them like laptop power cords or are they just plain cords. Just wondering how difficult it will be to track one of these down if they do have a brick
Thirdly, any experience/comments on using an Ikea Tupplar roller blind as a makeshift screen?
Thanks again


----------



## Prof.

kiwi_guy said:


> Firstly, props for prompt reply
> Secondly, at the risk of sounding like a complete noob, do these cords have a "brick" on them like laptop power cords


Yes..They are just like your everyday plug in electric jug cords...generally readily available..


> Thirdly, any experience/comments on using an Ikea Tupplar roller blind as a makeshift screen?
> Thanks again


I haven't used one personally, but they are very popular in the UK..
I looked into them once but couldn't find one big enough for my application..and that's their main limitation..otherwise they make quite a good screen by all accounts..


----------



## kiwi_guy

thank u
:jump:


----------



## custard

211 hours on the HD20 now. i have recalibrated and as Prof predicted the color gamut has settled down much better.

these settings are using a PS3 via hdmi. rgb was set to FULL with superwhite ON.

with my large grey wall been used for projecting onto i have tried to retain brightness as much as possible for myself but have also carried out another calibration where brightness is not an issue. 

both of the calibrations were taken reflectively off a matte white panel.

*REGULAR CALIBRATION*
































































mode: user
contrast: 47
brightness: 40
color: 47
tint: 49
sharpness: 7
noise reduction: 0
gamma: standard
curve type: 1
offset: -2
color temp: warm
red gain: 4
green gain: 0
blue gain: -5
red bias: -2
green bias: -2
blue bias: -2
lamp bright mode: off



*MY CALIBRATION SETTINGS*
































































mode: user
contrast: 47
brightness: 37
color: 47
tint: 49
sharpness: 7
noise reduction: 0
gamma: standard
curve type: 1
offset: -2
color temp: warm
red gain: 7
green gain: 2
blue gain: -3
red bias: 1
green bias: 2
blue bias: 2
lamp bright mode: off


----------



## Blaser

Good job Custard!

I have read somewhere else that calibrating the 100% color saturation points is good but not the best you can do. Actually this is because projectors do not tend to be linear in behavior and are generally less saturated than necessary below 100% color input signal.

What I mean is if you have a 100% saturated red input signal with the projector outputting 100% red color, if you try a 50% saturated red signal input, you'll most probably obtain 20 or 30% saturated red output. To overcome this, I calibrate my projector at 75% saturation points (approx.). This leads to a more linear response up to 75% saturation input signal (where most of the colors practically are), then you'll find that with a 100% input signal, you'll have an oversaturated output from the projector (but linear colors up to 75% input signal). And anyway oversaturated output is not that noticeable by the eye but a good 0-75% input range will make the picture more lively with more pop. From the other side, the power supply of the projector won't be able to deal with a lot of oversaturation, which is a good thing to limit the oversaturation error above 75% saturation input signal...

I don't know if I'm clear :scratch: but I'll be happy to elaborate a little bit more if you want me to!

Enjoy...


----------



## rmerlano

Custard, I would like to know the size of your screen. Could you help me? 

Regards...


----------



## Blaser

Welcome to the shack Rmerlano!

What kind of help would be his screen size?? The size is a function of the distance to the seating postion or room dimensions if you want + personal preferences.

So if you want help, pls start with a description of your theater.


----------



## rmerlano

I want to know his experience with large screen using the optoma HD20.

I let you know my config:

I have my dedicated Home Theater, its 29.5´x19.6´and 9´ceiling, the four walls has fiberglass as acoustic treatment with some kind of wood over it and the floor is covered by a carpet. I have a total control of light, we can reach total darkness... I seat at 18ft from screen. I watch movies in my 150" screen size.
(Please excuse my english, i´ll try to be clear).

My equipment consist of:

Receiver: Onkyo SR-TX706 7.1
BluRay player: Sony PS3 80GB
HD DVD Player: Toshiba HD A2
Projector: Optoma HD65
Screen: Elite Screen Matte White 150" gain 1.1
Audio: Left/Right Frontal Infinity Primus P252
Central Fronatl Infinity Primus PC250
Surround and surround back Infinity Primus P152
subwoofers 2 JBL L8400PCH 12"


For me, the config is pretty good, but I would like jump to 1080p.
My first option is the Optoma Hd20, now my question...
Do you think it´s a good option? I want to watch a real 1080p on my 150" screen.

That´s why I ask for the size, but if somebody can help me to decide if buy the HD20 or not, will be great!!!

Thank you!!


----------



## Blaser

Hey! That's a pretty big screen that no projector will power easily. Not sure about the HD20 though, but I am really cynical since you obviously need a light cannon and a high gain screen.
I have seen Epson models that are light Canons but not sure about the resolution though. Keep looking while waiting for the reply of Custard.


----------



## rmerlano

Thank you Blaser... 
I´ll wait for Custard,

If somebody has some answer to my question, will be welcome!!

Cheers!


----------



## custard

rmerlano said:


> Custard, I would like to know the size of your screen. Could you help me?
> 
> Regards...


my screen (or should i say wall) measures 122" diagonally for 16:9.
it is painted matte gray with a gain in the region of 0.85. 
the measurements i have shown are taken using a white panel though.

coming from a former owner of the hd65 who moved up to the hd20 i would definitely recommend the upgrade. 
If you are happy with the brightness of the hd65 on your large screen then i cant see you having an issue with the hd20 as i have found it to be brighter. there are some images i put up ealier in the thread comparing both.


----------



## custard

Blaser said:


> Good job Custard!
> 
> I have read somewhere else that calibrating the 100% color saturation points is good but not the best you can do. Actually this is because projectors do not tend to be linear in behavior and are generally less saturated than necessary below 100% color input signal.
> 
> What I mean is if you have a 100% saturated red input signal with the projector outputting 100% red color, if you try a 50% saturated red signal input, you'll most probably obtain 20 or 30% saturated red output. To overcome this, I calibrate my projector at 75% saturation points (approx.). This leads to a more linear response up to 75% saturation input signal (where most of the colors practically are), then you'll find that with a 100% input signal, you'll have an oversaturated output from the projector (but linear colors up to 75% input signal). And anyway oversaturated output is not that noticeable by the eye but a good 0-75% input range will make the picture more lively with more pop. From the other side, the power supply of the projector won't be able to deal with a lot of oversaturation, which is a good thing to limit the oversaturation error above 75% saturation input signal...
> 
> I don't know if I'm clear :scratch: but I'll be happy to elaborate a little bit more if you want me to!
> 
> Enjoy...


thanks for the info Blaser.:T

i have read this aswell.

i know Calman allows this but my free HCFR software version does not unless the figures are edited manually. it seems that previous versions had this facility but i cant seem to find this in the current version.
the problem with replacing the 100% saturation with 75% is that it messes up the gray scale calculations in HCFR. 
i suppose the workaround for this would be to carry out two separate measurements for the color gamut and the gray scale.

i'll have a go with the 75% saturation this weekend...


----------



## rmerlano

custard said:


> my screen (or should i say wall) measures 122" diagonally for 16:9.
> it is painted matte gray with a gain in the region of 0.85.
> the measurements i have shown are taken using a white panel though.
> 
> coming from a former owner of the hd65 who moved up to the hd20 i would definitely recommend the upgrade.
> If you are happy with the brightness of the hd65 on your large screen then i cant see you having an issue with the hd20 as i have found it to be brighter. there are some images i put up ealier in the thread comparing both.


Thank you very much Custard!
I appreciate your comments, i´m very interested in buy the HD20. Hope in december have it under my ceiling!!
Have you completely setting the HD20 now?
Could you post more images?

:R


----------



## custard

there are still some things i need working on....

its a fairly basic setup in my lounge with the hd20 on a wall mount that i made myself.



















quite ugly looking but it works!


i'll get some pics of the hd20 in action over the weekend for you. do you need to see any in particular?


----------



## rmerlano

Thanks for the pics of the optoma, I like the idea :T
Any pic of any movie Full HD will be welcome. but if you have King Kong, Dark Knigh or Casino royale I´ll apreciate it..

:R :clap:


----------



## Blaser

custard said:


> thanks for the info Blaser.:T
> 
> i have read this aswell.
> 
> i know Calman allows this but my free HCFR software version does not unless the figures are edited manually. it seems that previous versions had this facility but i cant seem to find this in the current version.
> the problem with replacing the 100% saturation with 75% is that it messes up the gray scale calculations in HCFR.
> i suppose the workaround for this would be to carry out two separate measurements for the color gamut and the gray scale.
> 
> i'll have a go with the 75% saturation this weekend...


Hi Custard,

I have tried both calibration methods and really prefer the 75% for its pop and life like quality. Keep us posted!:T


----------



## rmerlano

Thank you for the Optoma´s pics :T It´s a great idea.

About the next pics, any screenshot of any movie Full HD will be OK, but if i cana choose...

King Kong, Dark Knight, Casino royale, Transformers... would be excellent!!

Cheers and thank´s again.

RM


----------



## custard

Rmerlano and Blaser - looks like you guys have set my homework for the weekend!:bigsmile:


----------



## rmerlano

custard said:


> Rmerlano and Blaser - looks like you guys have set my homework for the weekend!:bigsmile:


I don´t see any dissapoint about it!!

I´m happy to help you hehe


----------



## Blaser

It's a pleasant homework though, I'll be working during the weekend in a tender bid preparation :hissyfit:


----------



## Prof.

custard said:


> quite ugly looking but it works!


Simple but effective custard..:T
I use the same idea with my HD65, only I have compression springs between the projector and the top plate..


----------



## rmerlano

Prof. said:


> Simple but effective custard..:T


I agree!
What about of PICS the movies in FullHD of King Kong, Dark Knight, Casino royale, Transformers... :R


----------



## rmerlano

Custard, more homework!!! :devil:
Do you have the posibility/choice of project an image of 150"?? :innocent:


----------



## custard

rmerlano said:


> Custard, more homework!!! :devil:
> Do you have the posibility/choice of project an image of 150"?? :innocent:


i'm sorry but i can't - i am limited by the width and and depth of my room to the size mentioned before.

here is an album from a uk user of the hd200x which is pretty much the hd20 in a black casing.
i dont think i will be able to take pics to this standard...

http://www.apah20.dsl.pipex.com/hd200/


----------



## custard

Prof. said:


> Simple but effective custard..:T
> I use the same idea with my HD65, only I have compression springs between the projector and the top plate..


the compression springs is a great idea. 
i had considered using some more wingnuts underneath the plate aswell to provide similar stabilty to the springs you mention. the unit works fine without so i have left as is.

just though that i would mention that the lower plate of the two has holes about 5cm wide to allow for minor movement of the top plate and PJ horizontally and forwards/backwards.


----------



## rmerlano

custard said:


> i'm sorry but i can't - i am limited by the width and and depth of my room to the size mentioned before.
> 
> here is an album from a uk user of the hd200x which is pretty much the hd20 in a black casing.
> i dont think i will be able to take pics to this standard...
> 
> http://www.apah20.dsl.pipex.com/hd200/


Ok, no problem, I understand the limitations. :T

About the pics of UK user, them look great!!!!!
Do you know the screen size of him? or do you know how to contact him?

Thank you for your help?


----------



## custard

rmerlano said:


> Ok, no problem, I understand the limitations. :T
> 
> About the pics of UK user, them look great!!!!!
> Do you know the screen size of him? or do you know how to contact him?
> 
> Thank you for your help?


i cant remember the exact size but its smaller than mine so i think that does not help you.

as i said before the hd20 will work for you if you are happy with the brightness of the hd65.


----------



## Prof.

custard said:


> just though that i would mention that the lower plate of the two has holes about 5cm wide to allow for minor movement of the top plate and PJ horizontally and forwards/backwards.


That idea might just solve my problem!.:T
With an anamorphic set up, it's very difficult to fill the scope screen without using any zoom, if the projector is not quite exactly the right distance from the screen..
It only needs that small amount backwards or forwards to get the exact position..

At the moment I only have a single plate above the projector, so adding a second plate with large holes, will give me that fine adjustment!
Thanks for the idea custard..:T


----------



## rmerlano

rmerlano said:


> I don´t see any dissapoint about it!!
> 
> I´m happy to help you hehe


Custard, did you do your homework?? :devil:


----------



## custard

rmerlano said:


> Custard, did you do your homework?? :devil:


:hide:

not yet.....opssign:

do you still need some images or are the photos from the earlier link enough for you?


----------



## rmerlano

No problem Custard, it´s enough. I just wanted to know more of you setup.

Cheers!


----------



## geforce1999

Nice. I also have this HD20 replacing my HD73 recently but it is yet to be mouted on the ceilling bracket after the painting of my new HT room is ready :T Can't wait to enjoy it!! :R


----------



## tcarcio

How is this Pj to set up without lens shift???


----------



## Blaser

Congrats! Pls make us a review once it's working


----------



## custard

tcarcio said:


> How is this Pj to set up without lens shift???


it does have limited placement options. the pj lens has to centred for the horizontal plane to keep the image square.

the digital keystone correction allows some height adjustment at the expense of losing 1:1 pixel mapping for 1080p.

my diy mount has some minor adjustable parts to help me acheive the optimal placement.


----------



## custard

Blaser said:


> Hi Custard,
> 
> I have tried both calibration methods and really prefer the 75% for its pop and life like quality. Keep us posted!:T


i did end up testing the 75% levels but found i could not improve on my settings.

i probably should have spent longer with it - i hope to have another bash at 75% once i reach 500hrs.


----------



## yourgrandma

If they offer a rebate like they did on the HD70 when I bought it, I'm going to have to upgrade. 

4000:1 CR sure ought to blow my 1000:1 out of the water.


----------



## akan101

Prof. said:


> Well firstly you're looking at two totally different projectors..
> 
> The HD20 is a DLP..and the HC720 is an LCD..
> That's your first consideration, as to what type of system you prefer..
> 
> I've heard very good reports about both units, particularly for entry level projectors..
> The HC720 is the brighter of the two, so if you have any ambient light considerations, or planning on using a grey screen, then that's something to take into account..
> 
> Optoma's certainly don't have a good reputation for lamp life..
> 
> The difference between 1080p and 720p. is debatable..
> Some say that you can see the difference quite clearly, others say that they can't see any difference..particularly at this level of projector..with both types having low contrast ratio's..
> 
> If you're not able to see both units in operation (and then they would have to be viewed in the same environment) all you can do is go on other peoples experience with each type..


Well for better lamp life.First of all do not allow your projector to become overheated. The most frequently cause of lamp failure is excessive heat. Please follow the instructions in your user manual for powering down the projector and make sure that the projector has an adequate cool-down period. Operate your projector in a clean, relatively dust-free environment.Please make sure that you clean the air filters regularly. Utilize the "economy mode" if it is available with your projector model.


----------



## KrazyBassKevin

Looks great 1080 is beautiful but i cant wait for 2560 x 1600 like the high end computer LCD's thats going to be the day nice set-up i like i think projectors are especially great for underground theaters where the light is not a factor that contributes to the pain received in watching movie.:nerd:


----------



## jbmccaslin

I am considering purchasing an Optoma HD20 but I am curious as to which screen I should get. The projector will be going in my bonus room and screen will be placed about 11'6" - 12' away from viewing area. I am probably looking to get a 100" - 106" motorized screen (a LCD will be mounted to the wall behind it for everyday TV watching). This projector will only be used for sporting events, occasional video games, and movies of course. 

Not counting the lights (which can all be turned off) there is 1 window in the room which can be covered fairly easily. I've been looking at Elite screens. Any suggestions would be great on what screen or screen material (matte white, maxwhite, gray, etc.)would be suitable to my situation. Thanks in advance.


----------



## shadyJ

jbmccaslin said:


> I am considering purchasing an Optoma HD20 but I am curious as to which screen I should get. The projector will be going in my bonus room and screen will be placed about 11'6" - 12' away from viewing area. I am probably looking to get a 100" - 106" motorized screen (a LCD will be mounted to the wall behind it for everyday TV watching). This projector will only be used for sporting events, occasional video games, and movies of course.
> 
> Not counting the lights (which can all be turned off) there is 1 window in the room which can be covered fairly easily. I've been looking at Elite screens. Any suggestions would be great on what screen or screen material (matte white, maxwhite, gray, etc.)would be suitable to my situation. Thanks in advance.


Hi, I don't know if this reply is too late, but I'll answer anyway. The HD20's weak spot is its black levels, this can be partially remedied by going with darker screens such as gray. I would go with a gray screen with the HD20.


----------



## tonydp

Following theses settings over the last year and everything is great. Thanks


----------



## yourgrandma

I love that this thing is still available and still stacks up against the new stuff. Interest renewed.


----------



## ja3hawk

shadyJ said:


> Hi, I don't know if this reply is too late, but I'll answer anyway. The HD20's weak spot is its black levels, this can be partially remedied by going with darker screens such as gray. I would go with a gray screen with the HD20.



This is exactly my thought. I'm currently using a cinewhite screen with my HD20. Don't get me wrong the image looks really good, especially in low ambient light situations, but I wish I'd gone with a grey screen to improve the blacks.


----------



## Picture_Shooter

I just recently sold my 703HD, and once we're moved into our new place I am looking @ getting this HD20


----------



## Picture_Shooter

Great mod!! I did something like this, but with pexiglass on my old Z1. 

What is your throw distance and screen image? 



custard said:


> there are still some things i need working on....
> 
> its a fairly basic setup in my lounge with the hd20 on a wall mount that i made myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quite ugly looking but it works!
> 
> 
> i'll get some pics of the hd20 in action over the weekend for you. do you need to see any in particular?


----------

