# Projector Set-up



## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

New to this site and the HT community. I’m having my basement finished next month and as such need to tell the contractor where to run the wires and place the outlet for a ceiling mounted Projector. I’m not sure if I want a projector or a regular LED TV. As such I am having him run wires for both and when I’m ready to buy the wires will already be there. The HT room will be 29x11, I want to be able to view from either end. This means the projector would be placed smack in the middle at 15’ from either end. I have done some searching and it appears most projectors will work at this distance from the screen. Are there any watch outs I should take into account?


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## tonyvdb (Sep 5, 2007)

Yes 15' will give you a decent size screen for most projectors. How high is the ceiling? your going to want to keep it high enough so that people wont bump their head on it. make sure you run a Cat6 cable to it as well and use a decent quality HDMI cable from Monoprice.com


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

tonyvdb said:


> Yes 15' will give you a decent size screen for most projectors. How high is the ceiling? your going to want to keep it high enough so that people wont bump their head on it. make sure you run a Cat6 cable to it as well and use a decent quality HDMI cable from Monoprice.com


Thanks for the quick response. The Ceiling is about 8' so it's plenty high. I was also thinking of 92’’ or 106’’ screen, upon more reading it seems one should first pick the screen size best for the room than a projector to match that screen size. I’m thinking a 106” would be best because I’ll have the option to go as high as 106” or go lower if desired. Are my assumptions flawed? The Cat6 will be for cable or for something else? I am totally new to HT’s. I am also getting a Surround sound system, nothing huge probably a Sony 5.1 for now. I would also be using a DVR and DVD player. Does this change the wires I should have run to the projector area? This will be in the basement with no ambiant lighting, I'll be using CAN lights with dimmer swithes.


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## 86eldel68-deactivated (Nov 30, 2010)

If your budget allows it, try to get a PJ with lens shift. It's a very useful feature that allows for greater placement flexibility. To see if a particular PJ has, among other things, lens shift or sufficient zoom range to meet your needs, see ProjectorCentral.com's helpful Projection Calculator.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

So am I right to picks screen size first?


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## tonyvdb (Sep 5, 2007)

Honestly, at 15' I cant think of a projector that wont do at least a 110" screen so I would not worry about that. Concentrate on a good projector with good light output, good black level and make sure your room can be made dark as thats where a projector is in its glory.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

tonyvdb said:


> Honestly, at 15' I cant think of a projector that wont do at least a 110" screen so I would not worry about that. Concentrate on a good projector with good light output, good black level and make sure your room can be made dark as thats where a projector is in its glory.


With the door closed it will be pitch dark. The projector is another issue. Wife gave me 1.5K budget for projector and surround sound.


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## tonyvdb (Sep 5, 2007)

1.5K for both projector screen and sound, does that include the receiver and speakers?


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

devildog1679 said:


> With the door closed it will be pitch dark. The projector is another issue. Wife gave me 1.5K budget for projector and surround sound.


For surround I was thinking of a Sony 5.1 which is around $600. Nothing crazy for now since my budget is limited. As for the Projector, I was thinking about the Viewsonic Pro8200 for $800. I know there are better ones in the mid 1.5k range but like I said I have a tight budget. It wob't be the best but it would get me by for a while. Thoughts?


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## rab-byte (Feb 1, 2011)

devildog1679 said:


> For surround I was thinking of a Sony 5.1 which is around $600. Nothing crazy for now since my budget is limited. As for the Projector, I was thinking about the Viewsonic Pro8200 for $800. I know there are better ones in the mid 1.5k range but like I said I have a tight budget. It wob't be the best but it would get me by for a while. Thoughts?


Are you pre wiring your 5.1 also? Physically where is your equipment going to be located? I'd look into getting an AVR and two speakers to start vs an HTIB.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

rab-byte said:


> Are you pre wiring your 5.1 also? Physically where is your equipment going to be located? I'd look into getting an AVR and two speakers to start vs an HTIB.


Yes, I'm having the contractor run wires to all four ceiling corners and also two more dead center of room. What's AVR & HTIB?


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## tonyvdb (Sep 5, 2007)

Check out Newegg, they usually have great deals on speakers on the weekends.
Accessories4less is a great place to look for receivers.


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## rab-byte (Feb 1, 2011)

devildog1679 said:


> Yes, I'm having the contractor run wires to all four ceiling corners and also two more dead center of room. What's AVR & HTIB?


Audio Video Receiver and Home Theater in a Box.

An AVR or Surround Sound Reciever, or simply "receiver", some people inproperly call it an "amp", is typically made of three parts. A pre-amp/processor (or pre/pro), a tuner (am/fm), and an amplifier. Most also have some form of EQ, source up conversion, and picture scaling. They have binding posts to connect your speakers to and an RCA type jack for a powered subwoofer (or "LFE", low frequency effects, out). 


A HTIB cme with speakers and subwoofer but tend to have less sound quality, lack inputs, and tend to be proprietary (shouldn't/can't use other speakers with it). Not all HTiBs have all these issues... Bose lifestyle systems are technically HTiBs, also some companies like Denon and Onkyo sell their AVRs with speakers/sub. Typically these are their entry level AVRs or special made for these packages.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

My issue is the budget, I may have to settle for a Basic 5.1 system since most of the $$ will go to the projector.


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## tonyvdb (Sep 5, 2007)

This Onkyo 5500 HTIB system is a great deal.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

tonyvdb said:


> This Onkyo 5500 HTIB system is a great deal.


Yea, but its a refurbished piece.


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## rab-byte (Feb 1, 2011)

Refurb isn't too big a deal with audio. It means it has been hand tested 


Where are you locating your equipment? Will it be in on stand, under a counter, in an audio tower, or in a closet... I'm wondering because of remote controls options and wire runs.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

rab-byte said:


> Refurb isn't too big a deal with audio. It means it has been hand tested
> 
> 
> Where are you locating your equipment? Will it be in on stand, under a counter, in an audio tower, or in a closet... I'm wondering because of remote controls options and wire runs.


In a closet, all wire will be run behind the wall planning on having the contarctor add audio wall plates on all four top corners for speakers, they will be able to accept banana plugs or bare wires. Should I also add wall plates at the bottom of the corners? If I do I'll have the flexibility of using floor speakers as well. I'll be mounting a projector to the ceiling deadcenter of room at 15' from either wall that way I'll have flexibility of using either wall for the screen. Are center channel speakers a necesity? If so I'll add wall plates on the center of each 11' wall. Question here, can center channel be placed uptop by ceiling or do they have to go down low? Can they rest on the floor? I was also thinking of adding wall plates deadcenter of 30' up top and bottom in case I wanted to locate speakers on the side. Will the side speakers be overkill for a room of this size?

Are floor or ceiling mount speakers better for sound? Are there specific wires I should have the contractor run to the wall plates for the speakers?

Yep lots of questions, never new HT was so complicated.


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## rab-byte (Feb 1, 2011)

Saw you started another thread about this I answered your pre-wire questions there. 

Floor standing and bookshelf are historically better speakers all around but that may be pushing your budget too far or may not gel with your design esthetic. In-wall/ceiling speakers range widely in price and performance. If you are dedicating the room to theater and like the idea of growing the system then I would say avoid in-ceilings in favor of satellites or other exposed speakers. 

If you build the system in phases you can get better stuff but you have to wait for the system to come together. 




















Ive been building my system for a few years now. The big costs were my towers and TV. 

I started with a new TV
Then knew I wanted to get speakers
I had the opportunity about a year after I got my TV to get the AVR at a steal so I did. Had to wait another 6months till I could afford my towers. Almost a year later got my sub. Over the last few years I've gotten my 5-disc, ps3, power amps, remote... You get the idea. 

But I'm still not in surround sound yet. 2.1 as far. I'll be adding to it but most likely it'll be around Xmas or later till I get my centre and surrounds.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

rab-byte said:


> Saw you started another thread about this I answered your pre-wire questions there.
> 
> Floor standing and bookshelf are historically better speakers all around but that may be pushing your budget too far or may not gel with your design esthetic. In-wall/ceiling speakers range widely in price and performance. If you are dedicating the room to theater and like the idea of growing the system then I would say avoid in-ceilings in favor of satellites or other exposed speakers.
> 
> ...


Looks good, I wasn't planning on in wall speakers just satellites. I take a look at that refurbished site. I just need it to last 2 years. Thanks for all your help. I'm sure I'll have more questions.


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## HT nut (Aug 31, 2011)

u will need a projector with lens shift and the viewsonic pro8200 does not have it.
i would go with a used epson 8350


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

HT nut said:


> u will need a projector with lens shift and the viewsonic pro8200 does not have it.
> i would go with a used epson 8350


Exactly what does lens shift do?


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## HT nut (Aug 31, 2011)

devildog1679 said:


> Exactly what does lens shift do?


it makes setting up your projector A LOT easier if you have placement issues like low ceilings etc etc
example: if you go with the Viewsonic Pro8200 the biggest screen you can go with is 100 " diagonal and that is pushing it.
so in your case u migh be ok with this projector 
if you want a bigger screen the viewsonic will not work


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

I think I found a good deal on a lightly used projector. It’s a Acer H5350, from what I can gather its 3D capable and also comes with 4 3D DLP Link Active Shutter glasses. It has about 60 hours of use and is in good condition, the seller wants $550. What do you think? Is this a good deal? The others I’ve been looking at are the Viewsonic 8200 or the Epson 8350, though I think the Epson is out of my budget.


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## tonyvdb (Sep 5, 2007)

the Acer H5350 is only 720p are you sure its 3D capable? I see no mention of it on the websites I have looked at?


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

tonyvdb said:


> the Acer H5350 is only 720p are you sure its 3D capable? I see no mention of it on the websites I have looked at?


Yes it is, Prejector Central states so. Only 720p wonder why it says compatible with 1080?


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## rab-byte (Feb 1, 2011)

devildog1679 said:


> Yes it is, Prejector Central states so. Only 720p wonder why it says compatible with 1080?


Because it accepts a 1080p signals but outputs 720p


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

rab-byte said:


> Because it accepts a 1080p signals but outputs 720p


Ah well that sucks. Guess I'll keep looking. 

Just thought of something else, should I put all the gear in a closet that will be built or on a shelf? I ask because not sure how I would control the AVR, DVD, Cable box if they are in a closet. Is there a special control for this?


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## rab-byte (Feb 1, 2011)

devildog1679 said:


> Ah well that sucks. Guess I'll keep looking.
> 
> Just thought of something else, should I put all the gear in a closet that will be built or on a shelf? I ask because not sure how I would control the AVR, DVD, Cable box if they are in a closet. Is there a special control for this?


Yes there are a few options:

Cheapest is an IR repeater, this is a system of little IR flashers and an IR receiver. This system is hard wired and carries any remote control signal from the one room to another. 

Next is a learning style RF remote, the Harmony900 from Logitech is probably the most popular. These consumer remotes can easily be programmed from home and can control multiple devices with out line of sight. This is the solution I recommend to you. 

Lastly are automation suites like control4, and the upper end of URC. This option can be expanded to work thermostat, lighting, cameras, and everything else in your home. Higher cost of entry but very cool.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

rab-byte said:


> Yes there are a few options:
> 
> Cheapest is an IR repeater, this is a system of little IR flashers and an IR receiver. This system is hard wired and carries any remote control signal from the one room to another.
> 
> ...


Thanks, I found a few last night. The 900 seems to come with the IR extenders included but at $349 that is way to much. Have you heard anything about the Harmony IR extender or the Wireless ones on Monoprice? I like the wireless one so that the transmitter won't have wires running to the receiver.

http://www.logitech.com/en-us/remotes/accessories/6347

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011009&p_id=9194&seq=1&format=4#feedback


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## rab-byte (Feb 1, 2011)

You can find the harmony cheaper if you catch it on sale or go with a referb one. Trust me you'll want a single remote anyway.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

rab-byte said:


> You can find the harmony cheaper if you catch it on sale or go with a referb one. Trust me you'll want a single remote anyway.


After doing some more research a wireless system is a hit or miss so a wired one is better for reliability. A good wired one is about $125 so for an extra $200 i can get a control that will not require running wires. Might be a better option. So the 900 will work with all my componants (cable box, avr, dvd, projector)


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## rab-byte (Feb 1, 2011)

devildog1679 said:


> After doing some more research a wireless system is a hit or miss so a wired one is better for reliability. A good wired one is about $125 so for an extra $200 i can get a control that will not require running wires. Might be a better option. So the 900 will work with all my componants (cable box, avr, dvd, projector)


Yes it will work everything


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

rab-byte said:


> Yes it will work everything


SO i think I know the answer to my next question but I'll ask anyway. If the componants will all be located in a closet in the back of the room, I am guessing that there is no need to point the remote behind me. The RF signals should travel to the back if I'm pointing forward right?


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## rab-byte (Feb 1, 2011)

devildog1679 said:


> SO i think I know the answer to my next question but I'll ask anyway. If the componants will all be located in a closet in the back of the room, I am guessing that there is no need to point the remote behind me. The RF signals should travel to the back if I'm pointing forward right?


Yep

Also the reason I'm telling you to run an Ethernet cable as well as an HDMI to the projector. That way we can make it a flasher or convert it into a 12v trigger for your projector.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

rab-byte said:


> Yep
> 
> make it a flasher or convert it into a 12v trigger for your projector.


Not following


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## DougMac (Jan 24, 2008)

Late to the party, but here are my thoughts based on building a dedicated home theater.

You need to start with seating. How many rows of seats and how far from the screen to you plan them to be? Using that information, you can find online charts (google THX) that will give you optimum screen size. From your description, I'm thinking you can easily go 120" diagonal. We're 10' from a 106" screen, which was maximum size for 720p, which we had first. Now that we're 1080p and I wish the screen was at least 120".

Once you have that calculated, you need to determine your projector, because its throw will determine how far from the screen it needs to be mounted. Most projectors have a zoom, place the projector so that it's close to the widest zoom setting. When you set the projector further back and zoom, you lose brightness. 

Projector type will determine how to handle offset. Your goal is to mount the projector level. With LCD, you can more easily adjust. DLP projectors, like I use, have a fixed offset. You'll need to determine how far from the ceiling you want the screen. That will establish the top of the screen height and how far from the ceiling you need to mount the projector. You're right, 8' should be plenty high. My ceiling is about 8 1/2 feet and I have to suspend the projector. Speaking of projectors, we started with an Optoma 720p DLP projector was was nice, but upgraded to a Mitsubishi HC4000, which runs ~$1,100.00. This is a great projector with stunning image quality. 

I know that doesn't leave much for audio, but maybe you can stretch your budget a little. To start, you could get an Onkyo lower end 5.1 receiver, such as a TX-NR415 or TX-NR515. If you could spend a little more, get the one with Audyssey EQ, it will make a big difference. Add an Energy Take Classic 5.1 speaker system and you're good to go. That's what my son is running.

Personally, I'm running an Onkyo TX-NR808 receiver with Ascend Acoustic speakers in a 7.1 configuration. My sub is a SVS PB-12 NSD. This is an amazing sounding system.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

DougMac said:


> Late to the party, but here are my thoughts based on building a dedicated home theater.
> 
> You need to start with seating. How many rows of seats and how far from the screen to you plan them to be? Using that information, you can find online charts (google THX) that will give you optimum screen size. From your description, I'm thinking you can easily go 120" diagonal. We're 10' from a 106" screen, which was maximum size for 720p, which we had first. Now that we're 1080p and I wish the screen was at least 120".
> 
> ...


All great info. The seating will be very flexible even with two rows the room is 30' feet long. As for screen size the wall I'll be using is 11x8 so guess it comes down to the projector as the determing factor. I'm fabricating a sliding mount that will allow me 3' feet of movement. Thinking of 14' to 16'. Thoughts? I was looking at a refurbished Onkyo 7.1 HTB. Being that all my speakers will be wall mounted by the ceiling ( not the sub) I think I may need to go the single Receiver route and get some smaller speakers. Hot any recommendation on small speakers?


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## DougMac (Jan 24, 2008)

devildog1679 said:


> All great info. The seating will be very flexible even with two rows the room is 30' feet long. As for screen size the wall I'll be using is 11x8 so guess it comes down to the projector as the determing factor. I'm fabricating a sliding mount that will allow me 3' feet of movement. Thinking of 14' to 16'. Thoughts? I was looking at a refurbished Onkyo 7.1 HTB. Being that all my speakers will be wall mounted by the ceiling ( not the sub) I think I may need to go the single Receiver route and get some smaller speakers. Hot any recommendation on small speakers?


There's info to help determine throw based on screen size. Here's the instruction manual to my Mitsubishi HC 4000. You can see on the chart that for a 120" diagonal screen, the projector can be placed anywhere from 12 to 18 feet. I placed my projector at ~14 feet from the screen, so it's almost, but not quite zoomed all the way out. 

Speaking of screens, I have had great success with a DIY screen. I investigated using an acoustically transparent screen so I could place my speakers behind it, but in construction we determined that we would have to place it too far into the room based on where we needed to place seating. I then checked into specialized screen paint, but it is pretty expensive. Reading led me to Sherwin William's Gray Screen. In our light controlled environment, it has just the right gain for our projector. Since I was building the theater, I carefully framed the screen area to make sure the drywall would be flat. I then hired an excellent drywall installer and ran the sheets horizontally so there would be only one joint in the screen area. I primed the area with Killz, then painted the screen, making sure to overpaint. Once the paint was dry, I projected an image and marked the corners. I then very carefully masked the screen area with tape and plastic sheeting. Then I painted the surround Blackwatch Green, that shows just a hint of color with the lights up, but looks black at viewing levels. It was scary painting the surround, I was afraid I'd ruin the screen with runs or that the paint would lift when I removed the tape. Luckily, the screen was fine.

If you plan to fly your speakers from the ceiling, be aware that this placement is a compromise. It is best to have the mains (L/C/R) at ear level with the viewer. That's why I wanted to use an acoustically transparent screen. 

For small speakers, check into the Energy system I recommended. A big step up would by the the Ascend HTM-200 SE's. I use these as back surround in my home theater, using larger Ascends for L/C/R and side surrounds. These small speakers sound great and can handle the volume level of home theater. The problem is they run $700.00 for L/C/R and two surrounds. That's before adding a subwoofer, which you would need to use with any small speakers.


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## rab-byte (Feb 1, 2011)

Just got back from a vender show I have to say I was very impressed by the epson 5010! It was shown with the SI black diamond screen. Most impressive picture I've seen in a while. 100% vertical and 50% horizontal lenses shift. Very bright projo. The screen blacked out the room amazingly well compared to a white screen. Not as budget friendly but PQ was amazing!


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

DougMac said:


> There's info to help determine throw based on screen size. Here's the instruction manual to my Mitsubishi HC 4000. You can see on the chart that for a 120" diagonal screen, the projector can be placed anywhere from 12 to 18 feet. I placed my projector at ~14 feet from the screen, so it's almost, but not quite zoomed all the way out.
> 
> Speaking of screens, I have had great success with a DIY screen. I investigated using an acoustically transparent screen so I could place my speakers behind it, but in construction we determined that we would have to place it too far into the room based on where we needed to place seating. I then checked into specialized screen paint, but it is pretty expensive. Reading led me to Sherwin William's Gray Screen. In our light controlled environment, it has just the right gain for our projector. Since I was building the theater, I carefully framed the screen area to make sure the drywall would be flat. I then hired an excellent drywall installer and ran the sheets horizontally so there would be only one joint in the screen area. I primed the area with Killz, then painted the screen, making sure to overpaint. Once the paint was dry, I projected an image and marked the corners. I then very carefully masked the screen area with tape and plastic sheeting. Then I painted the surround Blackwatch Green, that shows just a hint of color with the lights up, but looks black at viewing levels. It was scary painting the surround, I was afraid I'd ruin the screen with runs or that the paint would lift when I removed the tape. Luckily, the screen was fine.
> 
> ...


I'm running wires to all 8 corners both top and bottom, as well as top and bottom in center of room then top and bottom on the wall the screen is going on. This will give me tons of flexibility for speaker placement. Starting the job in 3 weeks


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## DougMac (Jan 24, 2008)

devildog1679 said:


> I'm running wires to all 8 corners both top and bottom, as well as top and bottom in center of room then top and bottom on the wall the screen is going on. This will give me tons of flexibility for speaker placement. Starting the job in 3 weeks


I like someone who plans ahead!

I wired for multiple subs, although I only have one now. I bi-wired the front, although I'm not using it. This may come in handy, though if I ever go 9.x or 11.x. I'm ready for high, wide or both!

Keep us posted on your progress. I used 12awg speaker wire from Monoprice. It's made for in-wall installation. I also mounted wall plates with banana plug recepticles. 12 gauge is fine for runs of 50 feet or so. When you calculate your needs, you might be surprised. I ended up running more than 300 feet of speaker wire!

Also, Monoprice sells a great HDMI cable for long runs. You'll need one from your projector to your receiver. I think mine is 25 feet and I have had no problems.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

DougMac said:


> I like someone who plans ahead!
> 
> I wired for multiple subs, although I only have one now. I bi-wired the front, although I'm not using it. This may come in handy, though if I ever go 9.x or 11.x. I'm ready for high, wide or both!
> 
> ...


I’m thinking I’m going to need about 300’ of wire and I am planning on running 12AWG from monoprice. Question on the subs, do those also use 12AWG or is there a different type of wire for subs. I’m planning on just running all the wires and leaving about 1 foot rolled up behind a blank wall plate. Once I know exactly where the speakers are going I’ll replace the blank wall plate with one that has an opening to push the wire through then add the desired end to the wire to mate to speaker. I just need to make sure and mark the other end according to where the wire leads to without that plugging into AV will be a challenge  For the projector I’m running a HDMI and CAT5 cable. Thinking it might have to be 30’.


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## rab-byte (Feb 1, 2011)

Search for a "fox and hound" it's a tone tool you can use to identify wires after they have been run (saved my "life") more then once. Poor mans solution is a simple 9v after the speakers are mounted but that isn't recommended. 

As for your sub drops coax cable rg-6 is fine. You can get a compression kit and turn it into an RCA cable later for your sub.

For your projector run go with cat-6 it's the same wire but better shielding.


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## DougMac (Jan 24, 2008)

devildog1679 said:


> Question on the subs, do those also use 12AWG or is there a different type of wire for subs.


Sub is from the sub out (line level) of the receiver using a Monoprice cable built with cat6. It works great, with no hum or other interference.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

DougMac said:


> Sub is from the sub out (line level) of the receiver using a Monoprice cable built with cat6. It works great, with no hum or other interference.


I was hoping I could use the same 12 AWG wire for subs. Now I have to run both 12 AWG and sub wire to each of the four lower corners since those will be locations for either speakers or subs.


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## rab-byte (Feb 1, 2011)

devildog1679 said:


> I was hoping I could use the same 12 AWG wire for subs. Now I have to run both 12 AWG and sub wire to each of the four lower corners since those will be locations for either speakers or subs.


Powered subwoofers use a pre-out signal, meaning they get the low frequency sent to them un-amplified. The type of wire used for this is an RCA tipped coax cable, like what you use with cable/satellite service. So yes you really should run coax RG-6 cable, not to be confused with ethernet (cat-6). It's a single sold copper line with good shielding. 

Passive subwoofers use normal speaker wire but you would need something called a "sub-amp" to power them in your configuration. They are typically used for in-wall subs only.


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

rab-byte said:


> Powered subwoofers use a pre-out signal, meaning they get the low frequency sent to them un-amplified. The type of wire used for this is an RCA tipped coax cable, like what you use with cable/satellite service. So yes you really should run coax RG-6 cable, not to be confused with ethernet (cat-6). It's a single sold copper line with good shielding.
> 
> Passive subwoofers use normal speaker wire but you would need something called a "sub-amp" to power them in your configuration. They are typically used for in-wall subs only.


OK, Thanks


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

So I decided on the Epson 8350. My thoughts are on ceiling mounting it. It would be placed smack in the middle of the room so that I could use either ends as the screen and this way I won’t have to change any setting on it since the throw distance will be the same. The room is 30’x11’x8’(LxWxH), so at 15’ throw the screen will be 112” Diagonal, 55” H, 98”L. Calculation attached. This gives me about 1.5’ at both the bottom, top, and side of screens. Any thoughts on this set-up? I’m a newbee at this but if I wanted to, would I be able to adjust the screen size without having to move the projector? Oh and due to kids I will be mounting all my speakers high up on the walls. I know for the fronts this is not optimal but I don’t want floor stands and my wife does not want a mid-wall shelf. 

On the screen, what are thoughts on a regular manual screen vs. a painted wall screen?


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## devildog1679 (Aug 3, 2012)

Getting the projector this weekend. I thought I had in narrowed down to the Epson 8350 for $999 but now I also see I can get the 6500UB also for $999 or the 8500UB for $100 more. Which is the better projector?


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