# PGA's The Mjolnir Theater Build



## phillihp23

I'm a newbie to all this. Planning to put together a home theater. Not as detailed and intensive as yours though......$$$$$. Looking to get started on it in the next week or so.

Questions:

Issues:

1: what effect do vaulted ceilings ( my rooom has ) have on picture quality, light throw from the screen reflecting? Paint Ceiling Black?? Velvet around screen or paint front wall black ?

2: I have windows in the room I am going to turn into a HT, whats the best way to block them out??
I would like it to be removeable what ever the fix is. I was thinking some sort of styrofoam block with a felt covering??? Any ideas??

3: Room paint and light reflection?? I read a few articles and they insist on dark flat neutral colors. You did a great job with yours, making it usable and liveable to be in when not viewing film. (not morbid)

Room info:
The room is 15' long, 15' wide and 8' tall walls - vaulted ceilings
Wood floors, light colored walls (a light yellow/green/white called pampis grass)
When house was built had the room pre-wired for a projector on ceiling and 7.1 sound

Limited Budget 1st Build (theres always future builds ) $3000 approx.

Denon AVR1912 875w (need to purchase) cost $550
Elite EzFrame Fixed Frame Screen Cinegrey 106" cost $400 or 126" $500(need to purchase)
Epson Powerlite 3010 (need to purchase) cost $1600
Projector mount (need to purchase) cost $300-500
Definitive Technology speakers (have)
Blue ray Player (have)
Cable Box (have)



Any input advice for room or needed equipment would be great.


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## phillihp23

Anyone have an opinion on which of these three projectors would be better?? Or other suggestion?

Mitsubishi HC4000
Panasonic PTAE4000
Epson Powerlite 3010


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## phillihp23

Well I found some reasonable prices:
Panasonic PTAE7000, 120" screen, Projector mount, 34' HDMI 1.4, two 3d movies and a calibration/setup disc for $3347 at Visualapex.com

They also have the
Epson 5010, 120" screen, Projector mount, 34" HDMI 1.4, two 3d movies and a calibration/setup disc for $3000

And here is a great link that compares the two
http://www.projectorreviews.com/projectors/pt-ae7000_vs_Epson_HC5010/index.php


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## Prof.

phillihp23 said:


> 1: what effect do vaulted ceilings ( my rooom has ) have on picture quality, light throw from the screen reflecting? Paint Ceiling Black?? Velvet around screen or paint front wall black ?
> 
> 
> 
> A vaulted ceiling won't have any affect on picture quality, providing it's not too low and is not light in colour..
> Ideally the ceiling should be painted dark grey..or black..The front wall likewise can be painted in the same colour..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2: I have windows in the room I am going to turn into a HT, whats the best way to block them out??
> I would like it to be removeable what ever the fix is. I was thinking some sort of styrofoam block with a felt covering??? Any ideas??
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I made a window plug..http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/home-audio-acoustics/9610-blocking-out-window.html
> It's a bit more substantial than just using foam (which incidentally you shouldn't use) and it completely covers past the glass area..No light leaks whatsoever..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3: Room paint and light reflection?? I read a few articles and they insist on dark flat neutral colors. You did a great job with yours, making it usable and liveable to be in when not viewing film. (not morbid)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Dark coloured walls are a must, if you're building a dedicated theatre room..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Room info:
> The room is 15' long, 15' wide and 8' tall walls - vaulted ceilings
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> A square room is the worst possible scenario for a theatre! It's very difficult to obtain a suitable acoustic environment, without a lot of treatment..
> 
> 
> 
> Wood floors, light colored walls
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wood floors are not good acoustically speaking, and you will need to put down a thick dark coloured throw rug in front of the screen area..
> 
> 
> 
> When house was built had the room pre-wired for a projector on ceiling and 7.1 sound
> 
> Limited Budget 1st Build (theres always future builds ) $3000 approx.
> 
> Denon AVR1912 875w (need to purchase) cost $550
> Elite EzFrame Fixed Frame Screen Cinegrey 106" cost $400 or 126" $500(need to purchase)
> Epson Powerlite 3010 (need to purchase) cost $1600
> Projector mount (need to purchase) cost $300-500
> Definitive Technology speakers (have)
> Blue ray Player (have)
> Cable Box (have)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That all looks good..:T
Click to expand...


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## Prof.

phillihp23 said:


> Anyone have an opinion on which of these three projectors would be better?? Or other suggestion?
> 
> Mitsubishi HC4000
> Panasonic PTAE4000
> Epson Powerlite 3010


My choice is the HC4000 (my next projector) but it depends on whether you prefer DLP or LCD..


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## phillihp23

Some photos of the room currently:

Screen wall







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Back of Room








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Projector Mount Area 








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Right Side Wall








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Left Side Wall








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Closet Area where audio equipment will be shelved







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Close up of tubed port from pojector mount in ceiling back to closet.








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## phillihp23

Luckly when the house was built as you can see in the pictures I had the speaker wiring installed.
Also had them install a power outlet on the ceiling for the projector, on its own breaker in the box.
And had a tube run from the pojector spot on the ceiling into the closet. 

Spent most of today debating how to black out the windows, and pondering room paint colors....

Going to order the projector and screen tommorrow....Decided on : $3347
PTAE7000
HDMI v1.4 - 35ft
IMAX Dinosaurs 2D / 3D
Nature's Journey Blu-ray DVD
Universal Projector Mount
WOW Calibration Disc
Visual Apex 120 in. Fixed Frame Screen


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## phillihp23

The Wall configurations for the Screen









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The Room layout








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Anyone see an issue with the seating positioning.... at 14 feet and 12 feet from the screen?


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## dsully444

looks good so far. I am watching this thread. One thing I see with your speaker heights is that you may have to angle them up a little bit to to ensure the tweaters are aimed at the listening position. I think you are good with your screen height also. I can't wait to see the finished product.


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## phillihp23

Tried to order Berkline 12003 Seating today. Was told they are no longer in business.
Ordered Lane 103 Matinee Recliner Black, row of three straight. (almost the same as the Berkline)
Ordered the projector Pani 7000 and Screen 100".
Still fretting about the colors to paint the room....Need to paint by this weekend. :yikes:


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## ALMFamily

phillihp23 said:


> Tried to order Berkline 12003 Seating today. Was told they are no longer in business.
> Ordered Lane 103 Matinee Recliner Black, row of three straight. (almost the same as the Berkline)
> Ordered the projector Pani 7000 and Screen 100".
> Still fretting about the colors to paint the room....Need to paint by this weekend. :yikes:


I would check in with Roman at RSH - one of the HTS sponsors. They used to have some Berklines available, and they also have several new offerings that look like extremely good chairs.


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## phillihp23

Painted the room today....pictures to be posted shortly.


Lowes Olympic Paint

Ceiling and front wall Flat Black
Other walls Sun Dried Tomatoe


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## HTip

Nice plans for your HT!

I looked at your designs and fed the parameters in this calculator, http://www.projectorcentral.com/Panasonic-PT-AE7000-projection-calculator-pro.htm

When you select screen size of 120", recommended seating position is between 12 and 19 feet. So that is just on the edge. I would recommend a little smaller screen though, but you already ordered, so maybe put the seats back a little.

The projector mounted at 12'5" uses all zoom capacity which I would not recommend. A better place would be 15'8" if possible. You can fiddle around with all parameters yourself I you would like.

Good luck with the build!


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## phillihp23

HTip said:


> Nice plans for your HT!
> 
> I looked at your designs and fed the parameters in this calculator, http://www.projectorcentral.com/Panasonic-PT-AE7000-projection-calculator-pro.htm
> 
> When you select screen size of 120", recommended seating position is between 12 and 19 feet. So that is just on the edge. I would recommend a little smaller screen though, but you already ordered, so maybe put the seats back a little.
> 
> The projector mounted at 12'5" uses all zoom capacity which I would not recommend. A better place would be 15'8" if possible. You can fiddle around with all parameters yourself I you would like.
> 
> Good luck with the build!


Keep up all the geat advice. I find it very helpfull. Before ordering the projector screen I did a little last minute research and talked to the company...ended up buying the 100" screen. For the facts as you stated, mount distance available and maxing out the zoom capacity.


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## phillihp23

Need some lighting input....

Looking to install low voltage lighting...

3 lights shooting down from above screen (100" screen diaginal) (straight down or back and angled at?) (watts?)

4 sconces (2 each side wall) (watts?)


2 lights shining down on dvd racks in back of room (install straight above shooting down or back angled shooting at?) (watts?)

4 lights in ceiling of room (recessed but anglable /want to shoot straight down but ceiling is recessed) (watts?)


Any ideas on watts for particular locations? lamp brands??

Looking to install a programmable wall switch that can be operated off a android application (wifi)? At least three settings. ON, fade out, OFF. Or any other ideas?


Also have a light fixture in the middle of the ceiling. Looking to remove it and replace with a fan possible. Was thinking install one fan in the closet above the AV equipment and one in the center of the room ceiling. One pull air and one push air....create a circulation in the room. Ideas???? Super quiet low rpm fan ideas????


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## phillihp23

Want to install wall panel molding around bottom of room....Is there some place I can buy these???
Anyone wanna make me some :R


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## phillihp23

Whats the closest distance you can sit and comfortably view a 100" screen (49" Tall x 87" Wide)?


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## HTip

phillihp23 said:


> Whats the closest distance you can sit and comfortably view a 100" screen (49" Tall x 87" Wide)?


When you look at the link I posted you can see that it's 10 feet. And ideally the distance to the projector lens (throw range) is 13 feet.


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## phillihp23

HTip said:


> When you look at the link I posted you can see that it's 10 feet. And ideally the distance to the projector lens (throw range) is 13 feet.


Correct you are. Thank you.


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## phillihp23

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Flat Black Wall and Ceiling








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Sun Dried Tomato Walls


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## ALMFamily

Nice color combo!


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## phillihp23

ALMFamily said:


> Nice color combo!


Thanks:sn:


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## phillihp23

Just looking for some opinions??

My walls are flat paint and my ceiling is flat paint. Would it look weird having a satin or gloss trim and panel ??

And i started painting my door...original high gloss white...with a flat black. Then realized the paint may not adhere and bubble peel. Now I am back to sanding...:coocoo:


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## Prof.

My walls and ceiling are flat paint..and my soffits and baseboards are satin finished..It looks fine to me..


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## phillihp23

Prof. said:


> My walls and ceiling are flat paint..and my soffits and baseboards are satin finished..It looks fine to me..


Yes, I think you are correct. I will do a low gloss/satin type finish for the trim. Otherwise the room overall might look really FLAT LOL! Trim is meant to add a little pop! to a room anyway. Opinions and advice always welcome.


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## phillihp23

After looking at many different AV Racks/Stands and not finding something I really like I have decided to build my own. I shall start this weekend with sanding down the cut boards and priming. Besides the end cost will be $120 compared to purchasing something for $300.


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## phillihp23

Painted Shelves







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Painted Shelve Trim







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Mounted Brackets







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Attached Shelves







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Found out after the first shelve...you have too leave about a inch between the shelve and the wall bracket or you cant adjust the shelves up and down.








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Will borrow my friends nailer gun to attach the trim quickly...later this week.


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## phillihp23

Also painted the closet Trim and the door to the room Black... Used Lowes Dark kettle Black in a Satin. This will be the color for the room crown, Trim and Panels.








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On anther note...I started looking at carpets. I was getting quotes for $1700 etc.. The issue i have is I don't want to ruin the hard wood floor in the room. They insist on spot gluing with strips around the edge or gluing the whole pad. So I looked into large throw carpets... I can get a 12' x 12" rug for $800. Seeing that the room is only approximately 15x15 I decided its a better solution. 

Will be tackling the panels this week......


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## phillihp23

Managed to get half the panel board up in the room (sheet rock). I did it 24" up the wall due to the windows Made sure it was level so the chair rail can be installed right on it.

It wouldn"t look right otherwise. It sure wasn't fun cutting out all the outlet recepticals. I still have to change the actual outlets to black...then put in extenders so the outlets will fit properly flush with the panels ( 1/2 " sheet rock). 








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## Prof.

Door and trim looks nice..:T
Why are you putting sheet rock on the lower section of the wall? You may have mentioned this before, but I can't recall any reason!


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## phillihp23

All the sheet rock hung, taped and mudded.








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Started priming the chair rail and basseboards.







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## phillihp23

And for the PROF! a look into the future.....








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## Prof.

I'm still confused! You already have sheet rock walls floor to ceiling..I take it..So why do you need another layer of sheet rock below the chair rail? I don't see any point to it!
Am I missing something?


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## phillihp23

Looking for IR controllable horizontal curtain retraction system. Any Ideas???


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## phillihp23

Prof. said:


> I'm still confused! You already have sheet rock walls floor to ceiling..I take it..So why do you need another layer of sheet rock below the chair rail? I don't see any point to it!
> Am I missing something?


Because I am making panels. It provides some sound dampening effect/some accustic help. I prefer the depth perception rather than affixing a chair rail directly to the main wall. 

"People take differant roads but in the end reach a similar destination".
"One is not always understood but acceptance is appreciated".


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## Prof.

"To each his own".. as the saying goes..


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## phillihp23

Trim is up and caulked......








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Next...I need to cut the frames to tack to the panels....

Paint all the panels...finish the shelves in the closet area...

Waiting on a contract electrician to do some wiring for lights to be added...I'm not comfortable with doing electrical work....:rolleyesno:


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## phillihp23

Cut and installed the Panel Frames today...








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## phillihp23

Primed all the frames...








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Need to paint the panels and frames now.


Then I have decided to install the panels and frames and trim throughout the closet...it will make it more part of the room than a closet as it was.








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## ALMFamily

Looking good mate! :T


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## Owen Bartley

Looking good, Phillip. I think the extra depth from the 2nd layer of drywall will add something to your panels as well. It likely won't do much for the sound proofing, where you are only as strong as your weakest link, but I do like that the panels stand out a little more.


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## phillihp23

ALMFamily said:


> Looking good mate! :T


Thanks :sn:


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## phillihp23

Owen Bartley said:


> Looking good, Phillip. I think the extra depth from the 2nd layer of drywall will add something to your panels as well. It likely won't do much for the sound proofing, where you are only as strong as your weakest link, but I do like that the panels stand out a little more.


Appreciate the good words.:bigsmile:


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## phillihp23

Painted the panels....Think they came out pretty sharp.
The Walls are in Flat Paint and textured. The Panels are in Satin and not textured.








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## phillihp23

Some update photos...

Left Shutters installed







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Right Shutter installed







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Game Image







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Movie Image








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Projector







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Next Project...lighting/electrical...as soon as I can save up some $$

Then Carpet and Theater Curtains


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## Infrasonic

Your room looks great! Good job with the panels and color choice. I like the BF3 screenshot


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## Prof.

Looking very nice..:T What lighting did you use behind the shutters?


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## phillihp23

Prof. I just cracked them slightly for the picture to show detail.


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## phillihp23

Infrasonic said:


> Your room looks great! Good job with the panels and color choice. I like the BF3 screenshot


Thanks :sn:


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## phillihp23

Question...Need advice. 
Does the Lutron Maestro IR Dimmer switch cause flicker, popping, or glow (not go all the way out ) when used with LED lights???

If so should I just go with the Lutron switch that is manual and pretested for LED lights??

Not really looking to invest in a home automation system but wanted it to be remote controlled.


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## phillihp23

Need some advice on length of theater curtains....should they be all the way to the floor or just to the top of the panels???? Picture below for reference. Advice welcomed!:dontknow:









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## ALMFamily

I vote for just below the screen.


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## Prof.

For side wall curtains, I'd be having mine to the floor!


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## phillihp23

Interesting...I was watching a movie the other day and I thought my subwoofer was making really wierd sounds...but brushed it off as a weird movie sound effect. When the movie was over I noticed my subwoofer 3'-4' feet out of place from where I had placed it. LOL!!! 

Once i get the carpet put in it should prevent my sub from skating around the room.


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## phillihp23

Finally have a date for the electrician to install the lighting in my HT....Monday 7/30. Looking forward to it being done......

Quick question.....I will be installing lights over the screen (4 x 4") and over the DVD Racks (2 x 4") and in the room 4 x 6".

The placement of the 4 x 6" in the room is the question. Room approximately 16' x 16'.

Three chairs across room with approximately 32" on each side of the room wall to chair.

Should I center the lights between the wall and chairs (A) ? or further into the room (B)??

A)
Wall light Chair Chair Chair light Wall
l x I___II___II___I x l



B)
Wall lightChair Chair Chairlight Wall
l XI___II___II___IX l


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## phillihp23

Finally got the electrician over...lighting installed. Need to paint the Can trim rings black now. Will try to post some pics by this weekend.
Now time to look for carpet...likely going to go with a dark red..to offset the black chairs and black wall paneling on the lower part of walls.


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## phillihp23

Started building a bar height table for the rear of the room. 44" H x 104 " L x 24" W. I will try to get some pictures up of the lighting and progress on table. I know...we have all been saying that on this forum...funny how we get so busy we cant find 10 minutes to take some pictures...:R


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## phillihp23

Media Rack in closet








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## phillihp23

Four 4" lights over screen







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Another room lights picture







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## phillihp23

The Back Bar Height Table framed up....







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## Prof.

Looking VERY nice!! :T


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## phillihp23

Prof. said:


> Looking VERY nice!! :T


Appreciate the good words :R


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## HTip

Looks great! :TT Watching the Olympics must have a been a joy... Movies are even better 

A bit late on your curtains, but mine reach the floor to keep the bass traps out of sight. And we thought it looked better.


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## phillihp23

Thanks HTip. Not too late on the curtain comment as I haven't gotten too it yet.


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## phillihp23

Some updated photos of the Bar Height Table for the back of the room in progress... 








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## ALMFamily

Very nice - looks great mate! :T


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## Prof.

Very nicely done..:T


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## phillihp23

Thanks ALM and PROF. :sn: I will try to get some better pictures of the Table once I finish touching it up and coating the top. A modest thank you to both of you. The first table I ever built, has a few cosmetic flaws but came out considerably well over all. :whew:


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## phillihp23

Some of those newer photos I was promising...







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## Prof.

It's all come up a treat! :T
My only suggestion would be to put a cover of some sort or doors over the back cabinet..Just to give it that finished look..


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## phillihp23

I'm thinking of putting some felt black out curtains over the closet/rack area. I have a bunch so it would be economical.


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## ALMFamily

Niiiiice!!:T

I was also wondering about finishing off the back rack - but, if you put doors on it, you would need to consider venting it somehow. Plus, curtains would be less intrusive into the room when you needed to get to the rack IMO.


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## phillihp23

I currently have a definitive technology Prosub 800 powered hooked LFE to my Denon 2112 Receiver. Is it possible split the LFE off the reciever and hook more than one subwoofer to the reciever?? I currently have a sub in the rear right corner and would like to put one in the rear left corner. I dont know alot about speaker hookups. I have pictures of the room above for reference. Below is the link for the sub specs.




http://www.definitivetech.com/products/prosub-800


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## HTip

Yes it is possible. You need a Y-splitter on the LFE output. That way the same signal is transmitted to both subs at the same time. Time and level alignment could be an issue. Does the Denon support 2 subs?


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## phillihp23

HTip said:


> Yes it is possible. You need a Y-splitter on the LFE output. That way the same signal is transmitted to both subs at the same time. Time and level alignment could be an issue. Does the Denon support 2 subs?


NO, the Denon only has one S Woofer Pre Out. What do you mean by Time? Level shouldnt be an issue as this model sub has a volume level adjustment. 

Also, does the length of the cable run from the reciever to the Subwoofer make a differance....delay in sound reaching the woofer on one side of the room??


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## HTip

phillihp23 said:


> NO, the Denon only has one S Woofer Pre Out. What do you mean by Time? Level shouldnt be an issue as this model sub has a volume level adjustment.
> 
> Also, does the length of the cable run from the reciever to the Subwoofer make a differance....delay in sound reaching the woofer on one side of the room??


Time alignment is the delay the signal is given before it is output to the sub. If you have only 1 setting for the sub, you can only set one distance. Only when the distance from each sub to the sweet spot is not equal this is a problem. Then it is almost impossible to correctly integrate the LFE signal into the surround bubble.

Length in cable has no effect...


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## phillihp23

HTip said:


> Time alignment is the delay the signal is given before it is output to the sub. If you have only 1 setting for the sub, you can only set one distance. Only when the distance from each sub to the sweet spot is not equal this is a problem. Then it is almost impossible to correctly integrate the LFE signal into the surround bubble.
> 
> Length in cable has no effect...


So basically, if my sweet spot is say in the middle of the room, and I place each sub respectively 5 feet back and 3 feet to the side (left and right) then the time alignment would be ok?


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## phillihp23

Ok...Looking for opinions....should I put black or red tone carpet in the theater room on the floor??


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## Prof.

I would go for a black carpet but with some grey tone or pattern in it..just to lighten it up a bit..


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## ALMFamily

Sorry, got the flu bug so I am trying to play catch-up now.

I agree with Prof - I would go with a black with grey or grey with black.


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## phillihp23

ALMFamily said:


> Sorry, got the flu bug so I am trying to play catch-up now.
> 
> I agree with Prof - I would go with a black with grey or grey with black.


Glad to here your beating the bug back. Hope you have been spending that time :hsd:


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## HTip

phillihp23 said:


> So basically, if my sweet spot is say in the middle of the room, and I place each sub respectively 5 feet back and 3 feet to the side (left and right) then the time alignment would be ok?


That's right, but... yeah there is again a but  your room should be symmetrical. You won't have any timing issues with this but integrating the subs in the sound field is another thing.

About the carpet, the darker the better in your viewing area, so I agree with Prof and Joe.


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## phillihp23

Added curtians to the media rack area








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Added curtains to the sides of the screen








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Next I will have to cut up a curtain of the same material and make a valance for across the top.......


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## Prof.

That looks better! :T


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## phillihp23

Anyone know of a carpet store in Seattle Washington Area? Looking for a black carpet with some sort of design, not too busy. Cant seem to find one around here that carry's anything other than a basic black carpet.:foottap:


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## HTip

Curtains look great. Personally I would not choose a curtain above your screen, but a cove which also can hide the rail.

From Mario's thread...



phillihp23 said:


> What do the two sub stands do? What's the purpose of them?


They isolate the sub from the surroundings and prevent the floor and walls from resonating. Only the force of the air provided by the sub can make things in the room vibrate 

It provides for tighter bass with less distortion. The commercial version is from Auralex and comes in 3 versions, SubDude, Gramma and Great Gramma. I have the normal Gramma in my living room and the Great Gramma underneath my Velodyne DD18.

http://www.auralex.com/c_sound_isolation/c_sound_isolation.asp



phillihp23 said:


> Whats the going rate for one of these $?
> And would it work effectively with this subwoofer (link below)
> 
> http://www.definitivetech.com/products/prosub-800


Bottom price for the SubDude/Gramma in Europe is €55/60 (app. $75). A Great Gramma is around €80 (app. $100).

Your sub could benefit, but a isolator works best when the sub makes maximum contact. In your case the DF sub prevents this. DF subs sometimes have bottom plates and they work more effectively. A FF sub placed without legs/feet benefits the most.



phillihp23 said:


> My issue is my DF sub tends to walk across the floor.:rubeyes: and cause some rattling in the room.
> 
> It also has A pressure-coupled Low Bass Radiator on the enclosure bottom works with the front-mounted bass driver to produce deep, soul-stirring bass.
> 
> Any ideas on how to mitigate the floor walking and vibrations?


The isolator will help you overcome the walking across the floor and maybe the rattling. It all depends how effective the platform is with your sub. I have no experience with FF-DF subs, so I'm not sure.


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## Prof.

I have a SubDude and the foam material that it's made from really grips the bottom of the sub, so I don't think you'll have any sub walking problems..
It also helped to reduce floor vibrations..


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## Picture_Shooter

phillihp23 - I enjoyed reading your whole thread and my room in cu ft is about the same. 

My paint setup will be basically like yours with the two-tone (but of course different colors) 
My bottom half will be flat black and about the same height (from ground to satin-white trim is 3') and the upper-wall to be dark flat grey. Front wall where the PJ will be is going to be all flat-black  

Instead of picture frame panels, I will be getting acoustic panels to give it the picture frame panel look on the bottom half. I too have all def-tech speakers, but will be running dual XS15s (on hold at the warehouse).

I am excited as we're waiting patiently trying to get our home completed so we can close on the thing!

Either way, I just wanted to drop in and say great work and looks sweet!!!!!!


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## phillihp23

Picture_Shooter said:


> phillihp23 - I enjoyed reading your whole thread and my room in cu ft is about the same.
> 
> My paint setup will be basically like yours with the two-tone (but of course different colors)
> My bottom half will be flat black and about the same height (from ground to satin-white trim is 3') and the upper-wall to be dark flat grey. Front wall where the PJ will be is going to be all flat-black
> 
> Instead of picture frame panels, I will be getting acoustic panels to give it the picture frame panel look on the bottom half. I too have all def-tech speakers, but will be running dual XS15s (on hold at the warehouse).
> 
> I am excited as we're waiting patiently trying to get our home completed so we can close on the thing!
> 
> Either way, I just wanted to drop in and say great work and looks sweet!!!!!!


Thanks for all the complements. I am eagerly watching your build come together. HTS is such a great site. By reading others builds I learned and got a lot of ideas for my room. I try to follow other builds, because its fun, and try to pass along things i learned from others builds or my own. You have some exciting times ahead. Nice to meet ya:wave:


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## phillihp23

Carpet was suppose to take 10 days to arrive, 14 days and not here. Called carpet store and told it won't ship until November 22nd. :foottap: 

Ordered some cables and wall plates, gonna wire up two sub-woofer runs for the back corners of the room. Currently just have one sub-woofer with a cable running across the floor into the rack area. Adding a second sub to provide even sub-woofer sound throughout room. :hsd:

Also ordered a Neon home theater sign for above the theater room door (My Custom Home Theater Name on it) :shh: Will reveal the final name of the theater when I feel like its done :neener:. Have next week off and hope everything arrives to install. 

Would like to run led strip lighting along baseboard on each side of room (approximate 14 feet x2). Want it to be wired on a IR switch (so as too use with my harmony remote). Keep looking around but so over whelmed by the variety and price of LED strip lighting. And not sure what all equipment I will need, or how I will wire it??? And help in this area would be great. :help:


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## phillihp23

Update on the last week. Installed the LED strip lighting along the baseboard on each side of the room, and recieved the carpet and layed it down. My second subwoofer arrived and I'm just waiting for the right angle drill i ordered to arrive, need it to get in a tight spot and drill the hole to run the sub cable. LED Theater sign should arrive by this weekend. Hopefully I will get this finished up sometime this weekend. Promise to post some pictures, and maybe even a short video walk through of the room. Almost forgot, I purchased a beverage fridge over the weekend and placed it in the theater room. Now there is always a cold beverage on hand. :yay: Next big future purchase...popcorn machine. :spend: Hope to have the room complete by Christmas (95% anyway....when are you ever done with something :rofl


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## ALMFamily

phillihp23 said:


> Update on the last week. Installed the LED strip lighting along the baseboard on each side of the room, and recieved the carpet and layed it down. My second subwoofer arrived and I'm just waiting for the right angle drill i ordered to arrive, need it to get in a tight spot and drill the hole to run the sub cable. LED Theater sign should arrive by this weekend. Hopefully I will get this finished up sometime this weekend. Promise to post some pictures, and maybe even a short video walk through of the room. Almost forgot, I purchased a beverage fridge over the weekend and placed it in the theater room. Now there is always a cold beverage on hand. :yay: Next big future purchase...popcorn machine. :spend: Hope to have the room complete by Christmas (95% anyway....when are you ever done with something :rofl


Sounds great - looking forward to pics!

One question - and I hope someone else can answer this because I am not sure. Doesn't having a refrigerator running in the room introduce noise at 60 Hz?


----------



## phillihp23

ALMFamily said:


> Doesn't having a refrigerator running in the room introduce noise at 60 Hz?


All i know is that when it does kick on, it introduces a low hum. But I have yet to notice it when listening to movies, at least for the most part. I guess if it kicked in, during a really quiet part of a movie i might hear it. Its located about 5 feet behind the front row of seats. Not an audiophile expert so as far as Hz go...:dontknow: Besides, just have a few more cold beverages if it bothers you. :dumbcrazy:


----------



## ALMFamily

phillihp23 said:


> All i know is that when it does kick on, it introduces a low hum. But I have yet to notice it when listening to movies, at least for the most part. I guess if it kicked in, during a really quiet part of a movie i might hear it. Its located about 5 feet behind the front row of seats. Not an audiophile expert so as far as Hz go...:dontknow: *Besides, just have a few more cold beverages if it bothers you. :dumbcrazy:*


Problem solved! :bigsmile:


----------



## HTip

Nice update :T The fridge *might* interfere with your HT equipment and *may* result in audible and visible imperfections. But it's fair to say that not everyone notices this


----------



## phillihp23

HTip said:


> Nice update :T The fridge *might* interfere with your HT equipment and *may* result in audible and visible imperfections. But it's fair to say that not everyone notices this


If my HT equipment (circuit 1) and PJ (circuit 2 ) are on separate circuits than the fridge (circuit 3) I would think that I wouldn't have any audible or visable imperfections, other than the actual sound emitted from the fridge. :dontknow:


----------



## HTip

phillihp23 said:


> If my HT equipment (circuit 1) and PJ (circuit 2 ) are on separate circuits than the fridge (circuit 3) I would think that I wouldn't have any audible or visable imperfections, other than the actual sound emitted from the fridge. :dontknow:


You're completely right. Good thinking to take that into account...


----------



## phillihp23

Last night i spent the whole evening, into the late night, drilling and running my sub woofer cables in the wall. It all worked out good, except when i went to put the speaker wire wall plug plate back on the wall.addle: Three screws in and the fourth one, the head of the screw stripped out halfway in. ARGGG!! tonight i will have to use pliers and twist it out....so close to closing up that project...it was 1130 PM an:snoring:d I said ...for another day...


----------



## phillihp23

So I finished wiring my two sub woofer cables in the wall, and while i was at it I did a little cable management on my AV Shelves and switched out some white cat 5 cables with black Cat 6.

Some photos of my recent fridge pickup...








[/IMG]








[/IMG]



Some photos of the carpet I put in the room...








[/IMG]








[/IMG]








[/IMG]








[/IMG]

Some pics of the led strip lights....








[/IMG]








[/IMG]








[/IMG]








[/IMG]


And lastly some screen shots of the movie Brave on my screen......








[/IMG]








[/IMG]








[/IMG]








[/IMG]








[/IMG]


Sorry for the long post...wanted to get some recent photos up...and i dug out my good camera and tripod to take them. 

Its been a long road, fun trip...now I'm ready to snuggle in for the winter.....:neener:


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## ALMFamily

I give it..... :TT

Great job mate - enjoy it as much as we have enjoyed following along!


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## HTip

Looks great! :TT

Have fun this winter :yay:


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## Prof.

Another happy home theatre owner! Well done..:T


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## phillihp23

I just want to say that if it wasn't for HTS I probably would have ended up building a theater room that was less appealing than the one I ended up with. I learned a lot of valuable information by reading through others builds. And especially grateful for those that came forward and assisted or gave opinion throughout my build. while there are things I may have been able to do different or would like to have done I am very pleased with the outcome. I think most people involved in projects like this (HTS members) can always see things they would do differently if they build again.

Now i have begun to tie together the little things in the room, or add the elements that would be more considered decorative.

I hung up the Theater sign today....see below.








[/IMG]









[/IMG]


I was wondering if one of the moderators is able to change my build thread title to " The Mjolnir Theater Build"
or advise how I am able to. Thanks in advance.

Mjolnir is the Nordic Legend Thor's hammer. It represents Thunder. How did i come up with that name you ask? Well my dogs name is Thor, and how appropriate it is that it represents thunder :hsd:. :bigsmile:


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## Prof.

Nice job on the theatre sign..and a clever name as well! :T
What did you use to backlight it?
Only Administration can change thread title names..Click on Report and request a name change..


----------



## Owen Bartley

phillihp23 said:


> The Mjolnir Theater


Sorry, the meow-meow theater?

LOL. I loved that part from the movie. Well done, and well-named.


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## phillihp23

Prof. said:


> What did you use to backlight it?


I purchased the sign from Stargate Cinema. They cut the name of your theater out of the top of the sign. It has a strip of LED Ribbon on the back that illuminates it.


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## phillihp23

Thanks Owen Bartley :sn:


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## phillihp23

Looking for a slim LED 40" TV that has connections for PC, HDMI, Ethernet (or wireless built in) and USB for under $300. Looking to use it for a digital poster. Let me know if you see anything out there.


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## ALMFamily

phillihp23 said:


> Looking for a slim LED 40" TV that has connections for PC, HDMI, Ethernet (or wireless built in) and USB for under $300. Looking to use it for a digital poster. Let me know if you see anything out there.


I would check your local Craigslist - that is where I found mine.


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## bamabum

Where is the carpet from? A local dealer or online?


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## phillihp23

bamabum said:


> Where is the carpet from? A local dealer or online?


Carpet Chain...."Great Floors"


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## phillihp23

Quick question.
Which do you think is a better option to purchase?

Denon AVR 2313 for $600
or
Denon AVR 3313 for $800


----------



## HTip

Depends on your requirements. The specs of the 3313 are of course heavier but the question is, do you need 11.2, 3 HDMI outputs, AL24 processing, etc.

Here you can compare the specs: http://audiovisualinfo.com/compare/Receivers/2982-vs-3034-vs-3041/


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## bamabum

I have the 3313ci.

I bought it for 7.2 and 3 zone multiroom. It does a great job with multiple tvs on the same source at different resolutions. It has been more than loud enough for a 25x15 space. 

I have had some problems with the iPhone app locking it up and others on the App Store share this problem even after firmware update. 

I placed in a rack with on 2" clearance on sides but 10 " clearance above and seams to run fine. It says 12" clearance on all sides in the manual.


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## phillihp23

bamabum said:


> I have the 3313ci.
> 
> I bought it for 7.2 and 3 zone multiroom. It does a great job with multiple tvs on the same source at different resolutions. It has been more than loud enough for a 25x15 space.
> 
> I have had some problems with the iPhone app locking it up and others on the App Store share this problem even after firmware update.
> 
> I placed in a rack with on 2" clearance on sides but 10 " clearance above and seams to run fine. It says 12" clearance on all sides in the manual.



So if its ok, I'll pick your brain about the 3313CI.:bigsmile:

Let me know if I am correct about this....
You can play say a movie from a DVD player on one display while using 7.2 audio in the home theater. At the same time you can be watching tv from you cable box on another display. You can also duplicate one of the video streams on a third display.

http://usa.denon.com/Assets/Images/Products/NewIncommandSeries/c26-AVR3313CI-2-l.jpg

Now for the extra 4 audio channels...how can you break them up. How are they dedicated??


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## bamabum

Its not as advanced and configurable as you would think.

Let me explain my setup. 

I have 2 adjoining rooms with wide opening between. 
Room one - 7.2 in one with split display (2 games showing) source 1 and 2 hdmi.
Room two - TV display with mirrored source 1 (game 1) audio is coming from either from whole home audio or the front wides that have been manually set in the eq.

A couple of the problems with their solution if you had 2 rooms not adjoining sound wise... 
hdmi 2 does not play on the assignable audio ports. And the big kicker is the assignable ports are only your back surrounds. 

Running the second screen through he receiver only really gives you fast toggle between existing sources plugged into the receiver.

You could do this other ways but I have loaded down my rack and my ports on my whole home audio and my video matrix boxes. Instead of adding new ones of each this was easier for me.

I you are truly trying to independently control 2 spaces you would be better off with another solution. a cheap example would be $150 monoprice 4x2 hdmi switch, and a sound bar or local amp for room 2 feeding from the audio on the hdmi out of the switch. 

A more comprehensive solution is to buy an hdmi matrix (4k for 8x8), whole home audio (2k for 8x8) and just use a simple amp for audio of the room and let the matrix determine video / audio sources.


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## wackychimp

Love the sign. Looks great!


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## phillihp23

wackychimp said:


> Love the sign. Looks great!


Thanks. Its a pretty simple and clean concept. If one had the tools and material they could probably make it for $25. All you would need is colored 1/4 in plexiglass. Then a proper saw to cut out the letters. Run a strip of LED ribbon lights down the middle and plug it in. 

I on the other hand paid about $170 and just hung it up :rofl:


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## phillihp23

Thought I would post some updated photos with the new Polk Speaker setup.

Front Speakers







[/IMG]

Rear Speakers








[/IMG]

Side Speakers







[/IMG]







[/IMG]


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## ALMFamily

Nice mate!! :T


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## phillihp23

ALMFamily said:


> Nice mate!! :T[/QUOTE
> 
> Thanks ALM
> 
> Your Theater is coming along great...been following it. On another note i decided to become a Gold Supporter this weekend. A small investment for all I have gotten out of this site and all the great people on here!


----------



## ALMFamily

phillihp23 said:


> ALMFamily said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nice mate!! :T[/QUOTE
> 
> Thanks ALM
> 
> Your Theater is coming along great...been following it. On another note i decided to become a Gold Supporter this weekend. A small investment for all I have gotten out of this site and all the great people on here!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - and thanks for your support!
Click to expand...


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## Prof.

Nice neat set up! :T


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## JQueen

:T the room looks Awesome.. the build thread was great!!!!! A++


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## phillihp23

JQueen said:


> :T the room looks Awesome.. the build thread was great!!!!! A++


Thanks for the complements :sn:


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## phillihp23

A quick simple image I created today. Currently have the JPEG on my PC and accessing it through my PS3 media network to post on the screen. Trying to find a way to store it on the PS3, on the Panasonic AE 7000U projector or on the Denon 4520.








[/IMG]


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## ALMFamily

Let me know if you find it on the AE-7000 - I glanced through and did not see a way to store it.


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## MrAngles

While you have the file selected on the XMB, the triangle button will give you the option to copy the image to the PS3's hard drive.


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## phillihp23

MrAngles said:


> While you have the file selected on the XMB, the triangle button will give you the option to copy the image to the PS3's hard drive.


Thanks,
Will that save it as the background image? I use the PS3 for movie watching so that would be nice so when the PS3 starts up for movies it displays.


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## MrAngles

No, that just copies the image to the PS3 so you don't need to access it through the mediaserver. To set a picture as wallpaper, while viewing the picture hit triangle and choose "Set as wallpaper" from the menu, then go to "Theme settings" in the Settings XMB column and change the Background setting to "Wallpaper."


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## phillihp23

ALMFamily said:


> Sounds great - looking forward to pics!
> 
> One question - and I hope someone else can answer this because I am not sure. Doesn't having a refrigerator running in the room introduce noise at 60 Hz?


Yes, ALMFamily...the fridge does introduce a low hum when it kicks in, and yes its probably around the 60 Hz. I usually dont notice it during movies but when i first walk into the room i always notice it if its running. Thinking about moving it just outside of the room, or maybe making a custom sound insulated cabinet to set the fridge in :bigsmile: Sounds like an idea to me. I just wonder what type of sound insulation i should use for the cabinet lining to mute it?


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## phillihp23

So I did a General run down of cost of my Theater Room Build.....:rubeyes:

Home Theater Build Break Down

*Equipment*
Panasonic PT- AE7000U/ 100” Cinewhite screen $3350
Denon AVR4520CI $1700
Polk RTi A5 (pair) $800
Polk RTi A1 (pair) $325
Polk RTi A3 (pair) $400
Polk CSi A6 $400
Polk F/Xi A6 (pair) $500
Polk RTi A7 (pair) $1100 
Dual SVS PB12-NSD $1500 (need to purchase)
Emotiva XPA-5 $1000

*Electrical*
Can lights/accent lights/etc. $2750
Theater sign $170

*Room*
Lane Cinema Chair (3) $1150
Carpet $900
Bar Height Table $300
Bar Height Chairs (3) $430
Shutters (3 sets) $1670
Audio Rack/Shelves $300
Crown $300
Sheet Rock / Trim/ etc. $400
Speaker mounts $200
Speaker wire / cables / etc. $250

Spent $18,395
Need $1,500
Total $19,895


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## Picture_Shooter

Hey Phillip - Excellent job man!!! You came a long way and it's looking AWESOME!!!

BTW... where did you get the bar height table at??


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## phillihp23

Picture_Shooter said:


> Hey Phillip - Excellent job man!!! You came a long way and it's looking AWESOME!!!
> 
> BTW... where did you get the bar height table at??


Actually I built it myself:R


----------



## phillihp23

Update...I have been running wire for an additional 4.2 which will bring my total up to 11.2.
will post pictures when done with the install. Also looking to upgrade too dual SVS PB12-NSD and add an emotiva XPR5. :whistling:


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## phillihp23

I have a Denon AVR4520CI Receiver in my rack...It runs nine 150 watt channels, total 1350 watts.
I run the following speakers:
RTI A5 x2 300w x2
RTI A7 x2 400w x2
RTI A3 x2 150w x2
RTI A1 x2 150w x2
CSIA6 x1 200w x1
F/XIA6 x2 150w x2 
Total 2500w

Do i need an amp to properly feed them power?
I need to buy a amp but do i need one this powerfull, in order to run all 11 speakers a amp is required. Denon only runs 9 powered.

Would it be advised to add an Emotiva XPR 5 (400w x 5, total 2000w).
Run the RTIA 5 x2 600 w
RTIA 7 x2 800 w
CSIA 6 x1 200 w total 
on the Emotiva.

Emotiva power 2000w run 1600w on it.

Denon AVr 4520CI run the
RTIA 1 x2 300w
RTIA 3 x2 300w
F/xiA6 x2 300w

Denon power 1350w run 900w on it.


Thoughts, opinions?? :help:


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## rpearson

phillihp23 said:


> Thought I would post some updated photos with the new Polk Speaker setup.
> 
> Front Speakers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/IMG]
> 
> Rear Speakers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/IMG]
> 
> Side Speakers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/IMG]


Very Nice!!


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## Peter Loeser

Just happened to be re-visiting your build thread and noticed your question about the external amp. I see from another post that you decided on an Emotiva to run your front mains, center, and wides, which IMO makes the most sense.

I'm in the process of doing almost exactly the same thing, and I'm curious to see your final execution. I can't tell from your photos where you have your heights and wides located. I think the speakers on the side walls in your photos are your surrounds, although they appear to be in front of the main listening position? Are your wides and heights mounted to the front wall?


----------



## Peter Loeser

p.s. great work on the build by the way. Nice transformation. I like your use of the existing closet for movie storage and AV gear. Overall a very clean and polished look.


----------



## phillihp23

Peter Loeser said:


> Just happened to be re-visiting your build thread and noticed your question about the external amp. I see from another post that you decided on an Emotiva to run your front mains, center, and wides, which IMO makes the most sense.
> 
> I'm in the process of doing almost exactly the same thing, and I'm curious to see your final execution. I can't tell from your photos where you have your heights and wides located. I think the speakers on the side walls in your photos are your surrounds, although they appear to be in front of the main listening position? Are your wides and heights mounted to the front wall?


Yes, I think I made a solid decision on the XPA-5 Gen 2 AMP, really like the results. Definitely notice the differance in sound, not as restrained. 
Yes, the speakers on the side walls in the photos are my surrounds, they are just forward of the seats (due to window placement) but the speakers in them angle back toward the seats. Have to work with the room as best I can. :bigsmile:

My Heights are mounted above the screen just above the left and right corner. The Font Wides are floor towers out to the side and slightly forward of the Front Mains. Basically ifyou draw an upside down smile for the front sound stage.

Will try and get photos up in the next day or so.

I need to update the photos to show my upgraded front mains RTi A7's, Front Wide RTi A5's and Front Height RTi A1's. Also some photos of my AMP in the rack.


----------



## Peter Loeser

I'm glad to hear you are happy with your new amp. I understand your speaker setup - pretty similar to what I have in mind. From the photos so far it looks like you've done a nice job of working around the existing room configuration. Looking forward to some photos of the new components.


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## phillihp23

[/URL][/IMG]


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## Peter Loeser

Thanks for the update. Looking good! :T

11.1 worth the effort and expense in your opinion?


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## phillihp23

Yes, well worth it. My last upgrade is two svs subs to replace the one def tech sub. The room is wired for four. Two front each side of center and two rear corners. Hopefully in the next month I will get them.


----------



## Peter Loeser

Sweet! One SVS sub will rock your socks off, but four should be tons of fun!


----------



## phillihp23

I have really found or re-found my joy in music since I built my Home Theater. I love to just sit back and listen to music in the room while playing on my laptop...


----------



## HTip

phillihp23 said:


> I have really found or re-found my joy in music since I built my Home Theater. I love to just sit back and listen to music in the room while playing on my laptop...


Good for you! :T I too like to unwind in my HT after a stressful day at work and just listen to music.


----------



## phillihp23

Complete :clap:



phillihp23 said:


> So I did a General run down of cost of my Theater Room Build.....:rubeyes:
> 
> Home Theater Build Break Down
> 
> *Equipment*
> Panasonic PT- AE7000U/ 100” Cinewhite screen $3350
> Denon AVR4520CI $1700
> Polk RTi A5 (pair) $800
> Polk RTi A1 (pair) $325
> Polk RTi A3 (pair) $400
> Polk CSi A6 $400
> Polk F/Xi A6 (pair) $500
> Polk RTi A7 (pair) $1100
> Dual SVS PB12-NSD $1300
> Emotiva XPA-5 $1000
> 
> *Electrical*
> Can lights/accent lights/etc. $2750
> Theater sign $170
> 
> *Room*
> Lane Cinema Chair (3) $1150
> Carpet $900
> Bar Height Table $300
> Bar Height Chairs (3) $430
> Shutters (3 sets) $1670
> Audio Rack/Shelves $300
> Crown $300
> Sheet Rock / Trim/ etc. $400
> Speaker mounts $200
> Speaker wire / cables / etc. $250
> 
> Spent $19,695
> Need $0
> Total $19,695


----------



## phillihp23

An Updated picture with my two new SVS PB12-NSD 







[/URL][/IMG]

And a screen shot of my favorite Playstation Series Battlefield on the PS4.







[/URL][/IMG]


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## Horrorfan33

Excellent job!!..Looks amazing, you should be very proud!!:T


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## bamabum

Looking pretty awesome.

Your first post said "Limited Budget 1st Build (theres always future builds ) $3000 approx."

You sound like me. This hobby is worse than gambling on the pocket book but has a better return.


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## phillihp23

bamabum said:


> Looking pretty awesome.
> 
> Your first post said "Limited Budget 1st Build (theres always future builds ) $3000 approx."
> 
> You sound like me. This hobby is worse than gambling on the pocket book but has a better return.


Right...how naive we all are when we start out our builds....:rofl: Learned a lot along the way from all the great people on HTS.....which resulted in a final project more grand than I ever expected....and most surely enjoyable.


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## phillihp23

Contemplating some additions/upgrades.

Thinking about purchasing a pair of Polk RTIA9's to use for the Front L/R channels and moving my RTIA7's to the Front Wide L/R. I would then move my RTIA5's to my living room setup.

Add an Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 2 to power my RTIA9's.

Add two SVS SB-2000 Subs to the rear corners of the room.


Any thoughts or comments? 

My current 11.2 setup is listed below in the signature line and in my Equipment list.


----------



## hyghwayman

Howdy Phillihp, thatnks for replying to my question in my *How much did your speaker system cost? *thread.
You have put together an awesome looking room and I bet it sounds just as nice.

I noticed in your last post here that you stated you add 2 x SVS SB-2000 Subs to the rear corners of the room :clap:. Does this now bring your system up to a 11.4 configuration :help:


----------



## phillihp23

hyghwayman said:


> Howdy Phillihp, thatnks for replying to my question in my *How much did your speaker system cost? *thread.
> You have put together an awesome looking room and I bet it sounds just as nice.
> 
> I noticed in your last post here that you stated you add 2 x SVS SB-2000 Subs to the rear corners of the room :clap:. Does this now bring your system up to a 11.4 configuration :help:


I am considering adding 2 x SVS SB-2000 to the rear corners of the room. Haven't decided yet. Not sure if adding two sealed subs to a room that already has two ported subs ( 2 x SVS PB12-NSD) will have a negative impact on the room or benefit the room enough to spend the money. They are the only ones that are small enough in dimensions to fit in the rear corners of the room.


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## phillihp23

Polk Audio has the Polk RTiA9's on sale for $569 each. Could't resist the upgrade, my Polk RTiA7's cost $550 each. Just purchased them off Amazon. I will move my RTiA7's to the front wide position and use the RTiA9's as front L/R. I will move my RTiA5's to my living room. Yipee :spend:


----------



## phillihp23

UPDATE
So I did a General run down of cost of my Theater Room Build.....

Home Theater Build Break Down

Equipment
Panasonic PT- AE7000U/ 100” Cinewhite screen $3350
Denon AVR4520CI $1700
Polk RTi A5 (pair) $800
Polk RTi A1 (pair) $325
Polk RTi A3 (pair) $400
Polk CSi A6 $400
Polk F/Xi A6 (pair) $500
Polk RTi A7 (pair) $1100 
Dual SVS PB12-NSD $1300 
Dual SVS PC12-NSD $1300
Emotiva XPA-5 $1000

Electrical
Can lights/accent lights/etc. $2750
Theater sign $170

Room
Lane Cinema Chair (3) $1150
Carpet $900
Bar Height Table $300
Bar Height Chairs (3) $430
Shutters (3 sets) $1670
Audio Rack/Shelves $300
Crown $300
Sheet Rock / Trim/ etc. $400
Speaker mounts $200
Speaker wire / cables / etc. $250

GIK Acoustics Room Treatment (HTS/GIK $750 Winner) Out of Pocket $430
4 x Tri-Trap Corner Bass Trap (Front corners floor to ceiling)
2 x FreeStand Acoustic Panel (Left and Right Side)
2 x 244 Bass Trap (Center of ceiling)

Spent $21,425
Need $0
Total $21,425


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## phillihp23

Left Front with GIK







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Right Front with GIK







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Ceiling with GIK


Front view with GIK







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## Owen Bartley

Phil, how would you say the sound has changed with the addition of your panels? Hopefully a noticeable improvement? Let us know your before and after impressions, when you have time!


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## phillihp23

First impression so far ....I may not be using the right words to describe my acoustical impression...but here goes..it instantly seemed like audio was "cleaner and defined" rather than what previously could now be called somewhat muddy sound. The audio feels more "controlled or less scattered". I can turn the sound louder (closer to reference level) and enjoy it without it being overbearing and noisy.


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## phillihp23

Received my two SVS PC12-NSD woofers and installed them.
Watched Godzilla and knocked my socks off!
Before I settle in and watch the new Captain America I thought I would post some pictures of them.

Right Rear Sub







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Left Rear Sub







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:hsd::hsd::hsd::hsd:


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## phillihp23

Lovin the room with the 4 SUBS now and GIK Acoustic panels!


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## phillihp23

So I did a General run down of cost of my Theater Room Build.....

Home Theater Build Break Down

Equipment
Panasonic PT- AE7000U/ 100” Cinewhite screen $3350
Denon AVR4520CI $1700
Polk RTi A9 (pair) $1200
Polk RTi A1 (pair) $325
Polk RTi A3 (pair) $400
Polk CSi A6 $400
Polk F/Xi A6 (pair) $500
Polk RTi A7 (pair) $1100 
Dual SVS PB12-NSD $1300 
Dual SVS PC12-NSD $1300
Emotiva XPA-5 $1000
Darbee Darblet DVP5000 $184

Electrical
Can lights/accent lights/etc. $2750
Theater sign $170

Room
Lane Cinema Chair (3) $1150
Carpet $900
Bar Height Table $300
Bar Height Chairs (3) $430
Shutters (3 sets) $1670
Audio Rack/Shelves $300
Crown $300
Sheet Rock / Trim/ etc. $400
Speaker mounts $200
Speaker wire / cables / etc. $250

GIK Acoustics Room Treatment (HTS/GIK $750 Winner) Out of Pocket $430
4 x Tri-Trap Corner Bass Trap (Front corners floor to ceiling)
2 x FreeStand Acoustic Panel (Left and Right Side)
2 x 244 Bass Trap (Center of ceiling)

Spent $22,009
Need $0
Total $22,009


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## Greenster

Just read your post. Very nice room. With that amount of subs in that room, I bet the bass is amazing.


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## phillihp23

Greenster said:


> Just read your post. Very nice room. With that amount of subs in that room, I bet the bass is amazing.


Thanks! Yes the bass is very nice. Equally distributed throughout the room. With good LFE scenes you really feel the room pressurize and hit you. :sn:
Thanks for taking the time to look through my build thread. I know I looked through a lot of threads and got different ideas from others builds along the way of mine.


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