# MitchOK Theater Construction Thread



## mitchok (Feb 5, 2008)

Thought I'd post the construction of my theater room. This site has been very helpful so far. I am lucky that I am working with a trim carpenter that specializes in theater rooms. 

So far, we are doing more destruction than construction. I am going to see if I can play with Sketchup and project a final design. I have attached a 2D floor plan, but that doesn't really give you the details of the floor height and ceiling height issues.

No specific equipment is determined yet, but basic game plan is:

TBD Projector (Epson Powerlite Pro Cinema 1080)
92" Diag Fixed Frame Screen (maybe Da Lite Cinema... screen material TBD)
A/V Receiver - TBD
Speakers - TBD (Klipsch RC-52 Center, RB-51 Left/Right, RS-42 Surrounds, and RPW-10 Sub are being considered)
Playstation 3 (already owned)... dang Blueray is expensive!
Direct TV HDTV Box
Addl DVD Player TBD

The most important component according to the Finance Minister (Mistress?) is the Contempo 4 oz Popcorn Machine with the 96 can bev cooler.

Anyway, I am sure I will be posting questions & thanks for the help so far... any suggestions are welcome.

Mitchok

Picture 1 is facing east.
Picture 2 is facing west towards future screen home.
Picture 3 is future home of equipment rack
Picture 4 is future home of snack bar


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Looks like a fun project.

I'd say you're home free if the tradeoff for doing this is a popcorn machine and a beer cooler 

Bryan


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Looks like it's going to be a major HT build..
Can you include in your drawing possible locations for screen, speakers, seating etc., so we can get a better idea of what you're proposing?


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## mitchok (Feb 5, 2008)

Ok... here is the basic layout for the screen wall (east wall). I have left off some construction/trim details. Doors (raised panel) will be built custom/stained to match existing house construction. Wood is oak and oak veneer. 

This is my first attempt using Sketchup... what a great tool. I readjusted the screen depth (currently 6") in the wall because my original plan (18") caused some issues with off angle viewing being blocked by wall edge. Didn't really see this until I did it in 3D. I will continue as I have time to build the rest of the room and show the remainder.

You can't tell in this, but the screen centerline is lined up with the ceiling vault which you can see in my earlier post.

THanks all!


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Just a heads up.... Putting speakers in cabinets like that is a bad idea. Putting subs in a cab like that is a worse idea. ANYTHING that is built in should be designed to be built in (ie in-wall designs). 

An open design will give much better performance from the same equipment.

Just something to consider.

Bryan


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## mitchok (Feb 5, 2008)

Thanks Bryan,

The sub will be behind the seating area. 

I guess I sorta understand what you are saying about the L/R/C speakers, but given the fact that this is a traffic flow issue, I am not really wanting to have the speakers in the way... moreover the Finance Mistress wouldn't like it.

Can you elaborate on "bad" and perhaps I can adjust design to minimize issue. What would you suggest? I am not really in favor of putting built-ins as I have those downstairs... and quite frankly they are pretty poor.

Thanks MitchOK


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

That was the first thing I picked up on also...
Definitely not a good idea to have those speaker alcoves..
If they have to be mounted in that way, then I would suggest just having open shelves and moving the L&R speakers further away from the sides of the screen..


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## mitchok (Feb 5, 2008)

Ok guys... try this one.

Center Channel
I bumped out the center channel shelf 9"... thats about as far out into traffic flow as I want to go. If I end up with the RC-62, its depth is 12.5"... so that means the back end is still in the alcove so to speak. However, I oversized the opening to give extra room in all directions. I will discuss with trim carpenter and maybe he can jazz it up or offer an alternative. Maybe we can open up the top too.

L/R
Open up the space significantly. The current depth of the alcove is 24"... Is shallower better? The speaker dimensions are 15.4H x 8.5W x 12.25D.

I sure appreciate the input.... its a lot easier to fix it now.

MitchOK


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## raw23062 (Feb 6, 2008)

Uh oh.....did I mention I had my guy build my speaker slots just like he had drawn up..... so what now? Do I cut the backs out? Too late to move them now....****.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Sorry. That's not going to help. What you need to do is get speakers that are designed to be used in-wall and have your cabinet guy build faces for those openings so they're sitting on a mini-wall. 

Bryan


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## mitchok (Feb 5, 2008)

Some birds eye views of the room. Seating rows are pretty close to where they will be. Unfornuately beacuse of the room shape and centerline, the first row (3 seats) has to be offset slightly to accomodate walking area.

One question I have is about the surrounds because of the odd room shape. Is it possible to do two sets of surrounds... one that targets the first row and another behind the third row? Any suggestions you might have would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again.... MitchOK :coocoo:


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Are you saying set it up as 5.1 but to sets of surrounds - so 7.1 set up for 5.1?

Bryan


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## mitchok (Feb 5, 2008)

Not sure. 

As you can see the angles I am dealing with and the space constraints... I wonder what to do that would sound the best. I am not after audiophile sound... but just a good/decent sound experience. Typically, with the family, we would only be occupying the first two rows anyway. I was thinking about a surround like the Klipsch RS-42, but no matter how I mount them on the angled wall, it seems the rear row gets blocked out and there are issues with cabinetry which I will most likely have to add some deading materials. To make matters worse, allergies force a wood floor. I will make liberal use of area rug(s).

So yes, I guess what I was thinking was a 5.1 setup with the Klipsch RS-42 mounted in the location shown, but also add a smaller pair of surrounds in the rear that would project primarily at the back row. I guess I can wire it that way and if it doesn't work well either switch to 7.1 or scrap the rear speakers. Do you think this is brain dead? Is there an alternative that doesn't require moving?

Thanks!
MitchOK


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

If it was me, I'd either:

- Just wire for 5.1 and put the rears in the back all the way so everyone gets some. You can compensate for timing in the processor.

- Do 7.1 and just let the rear row miss the side surround channels.

If you parallel 2 sets of rears in 5.1, you'll have timing issues I'm afraid.

Bryan


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

I think your first consideration should be for the normal family viewing situation..
With that in mind, I would place the side surrounds on the flat walls opposite the second row..
That way, everyone in the family viewing situation should get some reasonable surround effects..

When you have guests over, you can either leave it as it is, or make facilities for moving the surrounds further back to be opposite the back row..
To do this you would need to run an extra set of cables and connection points to the back row position, on the same walls..and of course providing that the surrounds are mounted in a manner that they can be moved..
This way you will still be using a 5.1 system..


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## whines (Oct 2, 2007)

It seems like dipole surround speakers along the sides of the second row of couches would be a good comprimise; that's my first thought!


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## kjgarrison (Nov 17, 2007)

mitchok said:


> Ok guys... try this one.
> 
> Center Channel
> I bumped out the center channel shelf 9"... thats about as far out into traffic flow as I want to go. If I end up with the RC-62, its depth is 12.5"... so that means the back end is still in the alcove so to speak. However, I oversized the opening to give extra room in all directions. I will discuss with trim carpenter and maybe he can jazz it up or offer an alternative. Maybe we can open up the top too.
> ...


Dipoles for sides? I am considering them as well. Are there any "in ceiling" dipoles?

BTW, what is the software you use for these excellent diagrams?


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## mitchok (Feb 5, 2008)

Software question is easier so I'll answer that first. It is Google Sketchup (Free version). Thanks to HomeTheaterShack Forums on that... I went through tutorial and was fairly operation in 2 hours... at least enough to get the ideas conveyed to to Chief of Finance (aka my better half) and my trim carpenter.

Di-Pole in-ceiling... I dunno... but I really like the Klipsch CDT-5650-C and the CDT-5800-C. I am considering as an option because of the ability to swivel/direct the horn and woofer towards the seating area. I heard these at the local box store and they are sweet. I just dunno how they would do as a surround in terms of sensitivity/response. 

For instance... the response Klipsch RS-42's are 52Hz-23kHz +/-3dB and the CDT-5650-C is 60Hz-20kHz ± 3dB. The sensitivity is 95dB versus 94dB @ 1w/1m. Hi Freq crossover is 1700 Hz versus 2440Hz. Not sure if I could hear the difference under most conditions. Of course, I am old and deaf...


Hope this helps.

Muddling my way through...

MitchOK


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

mitchok said:


> ... Is it possible to do two sets of surrounds... one that targets the first row and another behind the third row? Any suggestions you might have would be greatly appreciated ...


I notice that you haven't get your AV receiver ... are you planing to get a 5.1 or 7.1???:dontknow:

In a 7.1 you use two sets of surrounds, the back surround (can be used behind third row) and the surrounds (between first and second rows) ... but the problem is like you said "the angled wall" :duh:.

According to the experts there are some "No - No's" when installing speakers, but you can try and see if you like the results ... What I mean is, you can use a pair of speakers on the angled wall (per your diagram) and connect another set of speakers in parallel and place them between row two and three, those will be your surrounds .. then use a pair behing third row, those will be the back surround :yes:

You will use 9 speakers instead of seven for your system ... in this case all rows will have the surround experience. 

I'm crazy, and I'm using four sets of speakers on my front (see this picture) ... I know that what I'm doing is wrong, but there is a difference in the sound when I use just the pair of towers and when I use all of them :yay:


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## mitchok (Feb 5, 2008)

Ok... it has been a long week with a little progress on the newly renamed "Winchester House Home Theater" for the areas that seem to go nowhere and the endless construction. 

After much discussion with all stakeholders (please note... author has minority voting shares). It was decided to abandon a projector/fixed screen ONLY approach and redesign to accomodate an LCD on the wall and a recessed electric screen. Note... I sorta won this round.

The consequence of this has pros and cons. The pro's is I don't have to watch OU-Texas in the dark. Not a manly thing to do when other guys are over. The con's is that the screen comes out towards the audience about 14" and I will still have a smoking hole where my LCD TV should be since the budget only has one display option in it right now (note: I plan on hanging a picture of a LCD TV there to drive my wife to open the checkbook up). 

We also essentially abandoned the 3rd row of seating and revamped the second row. This works out nicely in that it will give more room for both first and second row, simplifies the speaker layout, and allows me to move the front row back about 10"... nearly recouping the screen to row distance I had originally.

The vaulted ceiling was roughed in... still blocking to do. The current vent will be relocated and that is approximately where the projector will hang (something around 13' from screen).

Equipment Decisions made this week....

Projector: Epson Powerlite Home Cinema 1080p UB (purchased at Visual Apex)
Screen: Elite TE106HW2 CineTension2 Series - 106" Diag. (52"x92") - Tensioned Electric Screen - 16:9 HDTV Format - Matte White (also a Visual Apex purchase)

A/V Recvr: Onkyo TX905NR... (not purchased yet)
Center: Klipsch RC-62 (not purchased yet)
Fronts: Klipsch RB-61 (not purchased yet)
Surrounds: TBD
Rears: TBD
Sub: SVS PB10-NSD (purchased from SVS)

Some wiring has been order from bluejeans and monoprice. I am finishing the wiring plan this weekend and may seek help/comments on that. Goal for next week is to finish all framing rough in.

Hope everyone had a good week.

MitchOK


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## mitchok (Feb 5, 2008)

Salvasol

7.1 is the choice. I think we solved some of the problem by sticking with 2 rows. 3rd row seating (aka fold up chairs ) can be brought in for football games and surround isn't an issue. This is less crowded and I think we are going to target the surround system for the front row. I am still considering ceiling versus wall for surrounds and may run some extra wires in case I don't like it in one position or the other. Same is true for rears. The back wall is windows and doors... not much room for speakers. I am considering a wall mount but have it extend away from wall as far as possible. Directional ceiling speakers are not ruled out either.

Since I am not an audio expert, I can say what you have done is pretty cool. At the end of the day it seems to me as long as you respect V=IR and understand timing/phasing you can do it. Even us aero/mech engineers had a class or two in electronics. Enough to be dangerous anyway. 110... 220... 440 whatever it takes. Juice it til it smokes. jk.

Have a good weekend.
MitchOK


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## bonehead848 (Jan 21, 2007)

whats up mitch! I just moved from Norman in December when I graduated. It sucks because I would have loved to stop by and help out. Anyways looks like you have a pretty good design going so far.


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## mitchok (Feb 5, 2008)

bonehead848 said:


> whats up mitch! I just moved from Norman in December when I graduated. It sucks because I would have loved to stop by and help out. Anyways looks like you have a pretty good design going so far.


Thanks Brian... I could use the help. I am cheating in that I have a trim carpenter helping me. I orginally did most of this build out about 12 years ago and now am semi-destroying it for the better I hope. This one has to last me a while.

Mitch


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## mitchok (Feb 5, 2008)

First Draft of Wiring Plan.

The guest plug is primarily for two purposes... 
HDMI/Composite for Guest Gamebox
I wonder if it would be better to run Component (~30') cable and put a composite plate on? Has anyone done this? 
Internet for Guest Laptop or Guest Gamebox to Internet

I don't know what LCD TV I will end up with otherwise I might not run component to it. Once sheetrocked, this is a bear to get to. Same thought on projector.

Note...I didn't complete speaker wire (16 AWG from Monoprice... no Monster ripoff for me thank you) run on diagram for clarity... they all go to the A/V recvr of course. Also the Mini D doesn't go to the A/V.. just to the cabinent for now.

Comments?

Thanks
Mitchok :coocoo:


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Looks pretty good. If you haven't purchased it yet, I'd recommend at least 14 ga for the speaker wire. If you want to completely future proof, run 12ga. 16ga will work but it's pretty skimpy for 4 ohm speakers over much of any distance.

Bryan


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## mitchok (Feb 5, 2008)

bpape said:


> Looks pretty good. If you haven't purchased it yet, I'd recommend at least 14 ga for the speaker wire. If you want to completely future proof, run 12ga. 16ga will work but it's pretty skimpy for 4 ohm speakers over much of any distance.
> 
> Bryan


My mistake... I had it in my head when I was doing the layout that 16 ga was minimum, but I actually bought 14 ga from monoprice. Longest run is about 35' to LF. However, I didn't buy enough for spare locations so I may purchase 12 ga and run that to fronts and centers. Also, I may run a couple of pairs to the sub location. Although this sub doesn't need it, my older one does and speaker wire is relatively cheap (as long as you steer clear of those monsterous prices).

Mitch :coocoo:


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## tritonman (Feb 2, 2008)

mitchok said:


> My mistake... I had it in my head when I was doing the layout that 16 ga was minimum, but I actually bought 14 ga from monoprice. Longest run is about 35' to LF. However, I didn't buy enough for spare locations so I may purchase 12 ga and run that to fronts and centers. Also, I may run a couple of pairs to the sub location. Although this sub doesn't need it, my older one does and speaker wire is relatively cheap (as long as you steer clear of those monsterous prices).
> 
> Mitch :coocoo:


Im not sure if you already bought your sub cable but to save cost in the cable i recommend using a standard RG6 coax cable with RCA connectors at each end. The rca connectors can be bought at any Radio Shack and of course you can get RG6 coax cable just about anywhere. I personally used Quad Shielded RG6 which is a bit overkill for a sub (at least my run) but RG6 is 75ohm rated and it can easily be used as your sub cable. Im using it with my SVS 20-39 PCi.

For my speaker cable I used 12ga solid strand electrical cable that is in-wall rated for runs (not the stuff you use to hook up your outlets and lights etc). It can be had pretty cheap at any hardware store. Its usually on their big wire roller and the stuff can be had for about .07 a foot or a little more. The only thing about the solid strand copper is its a pain to run because it is so stiff but it works very well and is cheaper than most speaker cable. It comes in a few diff colors..Black, Red and Blue. It can also take a beating on corners and being bent better than most speaker cable can and the jacket used on it seems to be better than some of the cheaper end speaker jackets. I used banana plugs at each end to simplify attaching to speakers and the back of the receiver as well.


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## bonehead848 (Jan 21, 2007)

mitchok said:


> My mistake... I had it in my head when I was doing the layout that 16 ga was minimum, but I actually bought 14 ga from monoprice. Longest run is about 35' to LF. However, I didn't buy enough for spare locations so I may purchase 12 ga and run that to fronts and centers. Also, I may run a couple of pairs to the sub location. Although this sub doesn't need it, my older one does and speaker wire is relatively cheap (as long as you steer clear of those monsterous prices).
> 
> Mitch :coocoo:


Just to make sure were on the right page, your svs will use an rca connection not speaker wire. Also, you can certainly follow tritons recommendation with the coax but I would very strongly recommend one of the cables from monoprice here

http://monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10236

By the time you bought a coax and the connectors from the evil that is radioshack you could save on the monoprice cables. You can use either the standard or high quality for a pb10(for an extra $2 the high quality is a better deal). I have used them on my huge diy sub and it sounded incredible. Also, dont sweat 12 gauge. Unless you are planning on amping your surrounds or buying monster surrounds 14 gauge is FINE. This is especially true if your longest run is under 30 feet.


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## mitchok (Feb 5, 2008)

bonehead848 said:


> Just to make sure were on the right page, your svs will use an rca connection not speaker wire. Also, you can certainly follow tritons recommendation with the coax but I would very strongly recommend one of the cables from monoprice here
> 
> http://monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10236
> 
> By the time you bought a coax and the connectors from the evil that is radioshack you could save on the monoprice cables. You can use either the standard or high quality for a pb10(for an extra $2 the high quality is a better deal). I have used them on my huge diy sub and it sounded incredible. Also, dont sweat 12 gauge. Unless you are planning on amping your surrounds or buying monster surrounds 14 gauge is FINE. This is especially true if your longest run is under 30 feet.


Yes I am running a 75 ohm sub cable. Actually went for bluejeans LC-1 cable because the length was in between. A bit more expensive than monoprice. As you said, this is all I need for the SVS.

I was just looking to a what if as far as running speaker wires to this space.

Not really shown on my plan...I am actually going to build a small door (12"w x 8"h) in the wall near floor to allow access to between wall area (about 10" wide) so I can put a UPS (or at least a surge protector) in line for the sub. This way the cables are out of site and all that is in the room is the sub with the power and sub cable exposed.

So much to think about before we can close up.

Mitch


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## mitchok (Feb 5, 2008)

*Happy Thanksgiving from the MitchOK Theater*

Hello Everybody and Happy Thanksgiving.

Its been a while since my last update & I apologize. I won't bore you with details but life has gotten in the way of the construction project. Job, surgeries, son's college, etc. etc. Suffice it to say, I am very thankful today that my family is healthy and we are going to enjoy the day. I certainly wish all of you a safe and happy Thanksgiving.

Anyway, attached a few pictures. Since the last update these items have been completed.

Rough electrical
Insulation and sheetrock/tape/texture.
Snack area cabinet bases
Equipment cabinet
Trim around back door

I am currently working on projector lift. The basics is that it needs to be a 24" straight drop. I am using a Firgelli Auto FA-150-S-12-24 linear actuator ($138 with brackets) as the beef with a pair of 24" ball bearing guides ($39). I also purchased seperately a 12v 15 amp power supply ($15). I still need to get a limit switches and a up-off-down manual switch.

I am trying to mostly finish each area before moving on. Next up is some additional trim work and trim around ceiling vault area to conceal rope lights.

Take care and God Bless.

MitchOK


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

Looking nice!!! :T


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Ah,yes..I remember this project..It's starting to come together nicely..
Keep the pics coming..


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Hey Mitch

Sounds like you've had quite a year - glad things are going well now for you and the family. Looking forward to seeing your progress.

Bryan


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## mitchok (Feb 5, 2008)

Thanks Bryan and I hope all is well with you and yours.

I am thinking about posting some details on the projector lift construction. I have searched the forum before and I have seen a few posts for DIY lifts, but maybe my experience with it can add to the information. Being a aero/mech engineer... I am bound by law to over-engineer it! 

Let me know if you think this is a needed topic or has already been well covered.


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Hey Mitch

Never too many DIY threads - especially for something like a PJ mount that's 'over-engineered'. 

Bryan


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

I agree with Bryan ....there's nothing more frustrating (at least to me) than looking for DIY ideas to build something and don't be able to find anything ...:sad:


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## mitchok (Feb 5, 2008)

Ok.. here is an update on the Projector Lift. I have done some learning on this and made a few course corrections. My objective was a 24" straight lift that could support a apprx 12 lb Epson Powerlite Home Cinema 1080 UB (apprx w20" x d18" x h7"). I have a vaulted celing and needed to make the PJ get by a planned ceiling fan. I started with a design that used two guides in the front and lifted from rear. I was worried this design would have to much play and I was right. I switched to the design you see here, but had to buy a new linear actuator because the roof inside the PJ enclosure was too shallow. I would have made the PJ enclosure taller to start with... but had attic structure issues. I ended up going with a Firgelli Auto 18" stroke/150 lb (FA-150-S-12-18). Now I have a spare 24" actuator!!!! The guides/drawer slides are heavy duty ball bearing 24" full extension, but in hindsight, I could have gone with shorter ones.

With this design, I ended up with a 17" lift. I tested the PJ and it looks like I will have plenty of adjustment. I can always tilt the PJ slightly too.

The power supply I bought off of Ebay. Mean Well SP-150-12 General Purpose Power Supply. Output Voltage 12 volts DC; Min current 0 amps; Max current 12.5 amps, Power 150 watts; Input voltage 85-264 vac; Universal AC Input; Built in active PFC Function; Built in constant current limiting circuit; Low profile 33mm thickness; LED indicator for power on; output voltage adjustment range 11.4 - 13.2v.

The aluminum angle (three sizes) I got at Home Depot. 

I wired the power the 12V Power supply to switched duplex plug (ceiling of PJ box). A switch along with a up/down toggle was installed in a cabinet. The up/down was DPDT toggle(mom-off-mom) rated for DC and wired for reversing. I used 14-4 SO to get to from the fuse block to the toggle. Other parts I bought at radio shack. I will be posting a final wiring diagram once I get done with the limit switch (for up postion) and tidy things up. For now I am posting pictures. It was functional and works real nice. Lessons learned. FOr instance... carefully measuring the location of the vertical sides relative to the side was important to get the slides to line up. I had to mess with this a bit. I also positioned the actuator at approximately the CG of the platform and the PJ. Also, if I could have built the enclosure separate and then just mounted into the ceiling... it wouldn't have been such a pain to get a nice square box.

If you look at the rough in pics, I have a small area off to the side. This is for the eventual UPS that the PJ will plug into. I routed the HDMIs and other signal cables to the forward wall and kept them away from any power. I will eventually frame for access doors to the rear.

Anyway... I feel like I am about 85%. Need to fill a few extra holes, finish mounting up limit switch, access doors, and paint.

I will post some more on this topic as I get finished up.

Mitchok

Note... the picture of the linear actuator is the 24" model...not the 18" one I ended up using.


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## raw23062 (Feb 6, 2008)

WOW!! That's extremely impressive, love the attention to detail. I can't wait to see the finished product.


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Very nicely done..:T
How long does it take to fully extended from the closed position ?


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

Prof. said:


> Very nicely done..:T
> How long does it take to fully extended from the closed position ?


I bet a couple of minutes :hide: ...


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## mitchok (Feb 5, 2008)

32 secs+/-... and I didn't put a turbocharger on it! :nerd:

Advertised spec is 0.5" per sec. so that is about right... it is lightly loaded (i.e. ~27 lbs w/PJ of 150 lb rating). didn't see any difference up or down.

32 secs seems ok to me to move a $$$$ piece of equipment. 

MitchOK


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## salvasol (Oct 31, 2006)

mitchok said:


> 32 secs+/-... and I didn't put a turbocharger on it! :nerd:


That's really fast, I thought it will take more than that :yes:


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## mitchok (Feb 5, 2008)

Not bad at all... its fairly quiet... nice hum. I am glad I went with four slides... that really took the play out. I have gone up and down about 3 dozen times now. No binding and the gap spacing doesn't seem to be an issue at all... phew! I did look at a stepper motor option and use cables/pulley, but the solid feel of the linear actuator made me feel better... it if stops working... it just stops working and I don't get an unspooling potential like you might have with a cable system... if that makes sense.


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

Mitch... this is going to be one snazzy looking and functional HT room. I can't wait to see the finished project.

That projector lift is excellent work :T


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## mitchok (Feb 5, 2008)

Hi all. First of all... Happy 4th to everyone. Its been a while since I've been on. My job has had me on the road most of the year. Despite that I have made some progress on the MitchOK "Neverending Project" Home Theater just haven't posted in a while. I have a day off Friday and plan on making more progress this weekend. I promise to post some updated photos on Sunday or Monday. Take care everyone and be safe this weekend.

MitchOK


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

You too Mitch. Looking forward to seeing the progress.

Bryan


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

I'll be interested to see your progress as well..


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## mitchok (Feb 5, 2008)

Ok... getting close to sanding and staining... just working on a few loose ends. Here's some pics to show progress. I ran 12V wire behind the crown molding and down the columns for some LED accent lights... I show you details in next post. I went ahead and installed the screen even though I will need to mask off when we start staining. Had a few issues with the dimensions and needed to install it to figure the trim out. Posted some lessons learned in the Screen forum.

Hope everyone is doing well.

MitchOK


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## Prof. (Oct 20, 2006)

Nice timber work..:T
Should look great when it's all stained..


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## Gregavi (Sep 22, 2009)

bpape said:


> Just a heads up.... Putting speakers in cabinets like that is a bad idea. Putting subs in a cab like that is a worse idea. ANYTHING that is built in should be designed to be built in (ie in-wall designs).
> 
> An open design will give much better performance from the same equipment.
> 
> ...


I was reading through this thread and it caught my eye that Mitch was building a cabinet in which to place his speakers. I was considering doing something similar with my front mains and center. The question was not answered: Why is it a bad idea? Is it that: just being confined in the cabinet will effect the sound substantually. Also, shouldn't the screen be at the same plane as the L/C/R speakers?
PS-Nice job Mitch


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## mitchok (Feb 5, 2008)

I am sure Bryan will give a much better answer, but yes...essentially by enclosing them (I have Klipsch bookshelf speakers) it changes the acoustics and doesn't allow the speaker to "breath"... as opposed to a speaker that was actually designed into a cabinent. I took Bryan's suggestion and significantly oversized the shelfs that the speakers will sit on and made sure the center speaker shelf was completely open. I am sure it isn't ideal, but I don't really want the speakers on the floor or on stands away from the wall where they would likely sound better. I have traffic flow issues in the room. If I end up with any issues, I guess I plan on dealing with it by use of baffles, sound deading material, or other solution depending on the issue encountered. My sub will be out in the room so that isn't an issue. The screen is only about 5-6 inches at most in front of the speaker plane... so I don't expect an issue there.

Going tomorrow to pick out granite countertops... woo hoo... getting closer.

MitchOK


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## bpape (Sep 14, 2006)

Any time you place a speaker that's not designed to be in wall or in a box, in one, you're going to substantially change bass response and impact the baffle step compensation that the speaker designer built into the crossover.

If you must put it in a cabinet, the balance of the cavity it sits in needs to be filled with insulation or absorbtion of some sort to prevent lots of nasty resonances and ringing. That won't help the baffle difference but will help with the bottom end.

As for the screen, optimally yes. But it also depends on the off axis vertical response of the speakers. Ear level is good. A proper screen though, will also be set up so seated ear/eye position is approx 1/3 up from the bottom of the screen.

Bryan


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## tonyvdb (Sep 5, 2007)

Great job! I love the retractable projector mount. Looks like its going to be a nice room.


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