# ZA5.5tt - MMTMM 2.5-way vertical array DIY BUILD



## fschris

Zaph Audio ZA5.5tt build. Can't say I have seen anyone build these?

And so it begins.

3/4" MDF all cut.

I am welcome to all advice.


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## GranteedEV

I am absolutely subscribing to this thread. This is gonna be a great build and I look forward to your subjective impressions. Make sure the tweeter is built at ear height.

John Krutke did say he's sold thousands of ZA14s already. I think the reality is a lot of people DIY but don't showcase.


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## Jstslamd

You've got my undivided attention!! Please go on with the build!


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## kadijk

I'm watching too. Totally jealous...these are on my build list. As soon as my Polk towers blow, or mysteriously disappear like a mafia hit target in concrete...looking forward to your impressions of the finished product. Enjoy


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## ovillegas

Awesome!!! I was interested in building the ZDT3.5, but I just realized there is this ZA5.5tt. I don't want to high jack the thread but does anyone know which one would have better bass extension? The 2 7" from the ZD3.5 or the 4 5" from the ZA5.5 ? Which one would be on the higher end overall?

I have been looking at some pics and the mmtmm look awesome!! I can't wait o see more pictures on this build! :jump:


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## fschris

IMO... if you had the space and money go for the zdt 3.5's!

Check out this build it is amazing

http://www.ohio.edu/people/schneidw/audio/zaph_zdt_35.html

I found this doing some google searches.


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## GranteedEV

ovillegas said:


> Awesome!!! I was interested in building the ZDT3.5, but I just realized there is this ZA5.5tt. I don't want to high jack the thread but does anyone know which one would have better bass extension? The 2 7" from the ZD3.5 or the 4 5" from the ZA5.5 ? Which one would be on the higher end overall?
> 
> I have been looking at some pics and the mmtmm look awesome!! I can't wait o see more pictures on this build! :jump:


IIRC you can tune the ZA5.5s to around 45hz or so, whereas the ZDT3.5 is tuned around 40hz. not a big difference.

What the ZA5.5 will likely do however, is play significantly louder.


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## Owen Bartley

Very interesting looking project. I'll be keeping an eye on this thread too. While I'm at it, fschris, those ZDT 3.5s you linked look beautiful. Now let's get yours started!


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## fschris

I will stary my build in a couple weeks ! sorry folks.

1) I am building my other MFW-15 clone sub that I can post pics of. It is a project that I copied from someone on another forum.

2) I need to source a router table. Trying to borrow one from someone or I may just get that Craftsman Prof. one.

3) I just purchased an Emotive XPA-3 to power these !!! Its on its way.


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## ovillegas

fschris said:


> 1) I am building my other MFW-15 clone sub that I can post pics of.


I'd love to see those pics too.


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## fschris

Can anyone suggest how to build a cheap router table that will work well.

I don't want to buy a POS craftmen router table. I know they have some at 50 bucks but they just seem like junk. I also dont have funds to spend 300 on a nice one right now. I need to build a work bench trying to think how I can incorporate a router table into it and have some sort of adjustable fence...


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## fschris

ovillegas said:


> I'd love to see those pics too.


Did you see the pics?


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## ovillegas

Sorry for the no-response. I did see the pics. It looks awesome! If you don't mind me asking, how much does a sub like that costs to build?


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## fschris

i sourced the drivers for 75 dollars. Sheet of MDF is about 30.

Of course you need an Amp, table saw, clamps, router, router circle jig etc.

that being said, they are great for the price sure you could spend a lot more but for a budget these rock my house.

after a while i plan to build some sealed 15's or something like that and see how they compare. I like HT stuff.

I am not building the subs for "music" or a 2.1 system.

I do hope I can play some good 2 channel music with the zaph 2.5MMTMM


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## The Prof

They certainly look very nice. If I were to make a modification, I would try to round off all corners to be curves. This really helps to reduce edge defraction, which hard sharp corners generate. You may notice how cabinets are becoming more 'aerodynamic'. It sounds better.


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## Jstslamd

Where are the pics of the subwoofer build ?


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## fschris

Jstslamd said:


> Where are the pics of the subwoofer build ?


on the 'other forum'


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## BuddahX

I cant wait till build pix and opinions. Im currently saving up for the full 7.1 build using the whole zaph audio build kit line. But kinda nervous about spending so much on a build that i haven't heard a lot of comments and opinions about. Looking forward to this build good job!!!!


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## Jstslamd

I've been a toss up on which way I want to go also. It's either going to be the NatP or the za5.5. Choices choices!!

Saw the pics of your mfw build. Looking good so far !!


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## Owen Bartley

I've been planning to build a NatP or Modula MTM front stage, but I'll have to look some more into these. Is it me, or have there not been very many new designs out lately? Maybe I just haven't been paying attention, but it seemed like 3 - 5 years ago there was a lot more happening in DIY speaker design.


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## Jstslamd

I personally haven't seen many new designs that were worth while. The stentorian is the only one off of the top of my head that I can think of.


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## fschris

Jstslamd said:


> I personally haven't seen many new designs that were worth while. The stentorian is the only one off of the top of my head that I can think of.


if I had the cash and the space i would have built those statements.


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## Owen Bartley

What about the Mini Statements, fschris? That would seem like a decent compromise, although I guess you'd always be wondering if you should have waited and just gone with the full size ones instead.


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## fschris

Owen... You are right.

One day maybe I will have a place to put those statements. Or something.

The ones I selected now will have WAF. Only 8 inches wide.


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## GranteedEV

Owen Bartley said:


> I've been planning to build a NatP or Modula MTM front stage, but I'll have to look some more into these. Is it me, or have there not been very many new designs out lately? Maybe I just haven't been paying attention, but it seemed like 3 - 5 years ago there was a lot more happening in DIY speaker design.


It's just you!

Jeff Babgy's Triton Kit for CSS
Redwoods (Crossover by Paul Carmody)
Dennis Murphy's ER18MTM (Enclosure by Paul Kittinger) (also available in a dome tweeter version)
Dan Nuebec's Echelons
John K's Nao Note

That is a lot of top-class stuff. And then there's everything to do with the SEOS waveguides, which are a big step up from econowave speakers.


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## Owen Bartley

fschris said:


> Owen... You are right.
> 
> One day maybe I will have a place to put those statements. Or something.
> 
> The ones I selected now will have WAF. Only 8 inches wide.


Yeah, sometimes it just doesn't make sense. I was on a big speaker kick for a while, and really wanted to build something physically imposing, then I realized that it just wouldn't really make sense in our house. But... maybe one day. Because I still want to scratch that itch.



GranteedEV said:


> It's just you!
> 
> Jeff Babgy's Triton Kit for CSS
> Redwoods (Crossover by Paul Carmody)
> Dennis Murphy's ER18MTM (Enclosure by Paul Kittinger)
> Dan Nuebec's Echelons
> John K's Nao Note
> 
> That is a lot of top-class stuff. And then there's everything to do with the SEOS waveguides, which are a big step up from econowave speakers.


Jackpot! Thank you!


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## Jstslamd

Any links to this builds ?


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## fschris

Good news here. 

3 Things.

First and Second. i was able to get a router table from Craigslist. It will do the job it is an old craftsmen at least it is all metal and not the MDF type. It was a bit small as well, however the jackpot was they also sold me a "Incra Jig." 

http://incra.com/product_rtf_ultralite.htm

and I secured both items for 80 Bucks :yes:

Last I am almost done with My MFW clone. Should be done by this weekend and will start the Zaph Build.


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## Owen Bartley

That's a great score! Those Incra accessories are really nice, and you should be able to get some use out of it. Hopefully you can make some dust with the new table on the weekend and everything will go smoothly.


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## GranteedEV

Jstslamd said:


> Any links to this builds ?


I updated my previous post with some links for you. The Tritons aren't yet up on CSS' website but i'm sure it won't be long - they got rave reviews at the inDIYana event last month.


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## kadijk

If you go to the CSS New Generation site, the Triton kit is listed. No pictures though, and very little info so far. Do any links exist to any reviews from that gtg? I'd love to read them...


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## fschris

can anyone tell me where to get very thin speaker gaskets or can I use a felt material or something like that?

i would relaly like to cut my own out as most will not be the exact size i need.

or can anyone tell me if it is really neeeded?

I use the 1/8" house door sealing stuff for my 15inch sub boxes but that will not work on the much smaller speakers.


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## Jstslamd

PE sells thin gasket tape. Basically like something that you would find in homedepot.


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## kadijk

I'm quite sure the ZA drivers come with a gasket attached. But I haven't actually laid eyes on them so I can't say for sure


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## fschris

Grrr... cant embed photos from my sky drive... I have some pics


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## Jstslamd

Fix it !! I want to see!!


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## fschris

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http://imageshack.us/g/29/wp001475z.jpg/


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## Jstslamd

Chris

I saw that you plan on using rustoleum paint for your project. I just wanted to give you and heads up on what I used and that is just the spray bomb can of the rustoleum professional enamel and they came out great. Here is a picture of the final product.

If you want high res pictures I can email them to you.


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## Jstslamd

Your mfw build came out great. Nice work!!


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## fschris

Well... been slammed with work... Plus I needed to build this before I could continue on my build. its 30x72! need a vice for it!


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## fschris

Made some progress this weekend.... 

got both the cabinets about 75% glued up.

Next weekend will work on the Baffles


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## fschris

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## fschris

Here are pics

http://img687.imageshack.us/slideshow/webplayer.php?id=wp001512.jpg


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## fschris




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## fschris




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## fschris




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## fschris

I learned a couple good tips using my new Jasper circle Jig. 

One is to have the pin go down into another piece of MDF so when you complete the cut the router is not running in a free state and makes unwanted cuts.....


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## kadijk

Nice job so far. I often forget how impressive the size of those mmtmms are. Are you using biscuits or only glue? Either is fine...just curious. And for the circle cutting, double sided tape on the piece with the pin works too. It'll hold it on your work surface just enough. You're definitely giving me the itch to build them. -must be self controlled-!


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## fschris

One thing I did wrong. I used a router bit that was too big and not calibrated with the Jasper circle jig. I ordered a correct size yesterday. I will need to fill a bit of a gap for the ports. It should not be hard to fix i can glue them in with some PL.. Then maybe squeezze some PL on the inside to fill the gap???


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## kadijk

Ya. Try PL Premium. It's expensive but really works. And fills gaps


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## fschris

A real pain in the rear end... 

I dont have a real plunge router so I was testing out my ability to use my router with jig. the holes I need ar right under the router base plate plus I have to adjust the depth and try to use my duct tape vacumm attachment. this will not be easy..... really wish i knew someone with a plunge router that I could borrow.


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## kadijk

I don't have a plunge router either. It might be handy, maybe. Usually for those cuts for the speaker flange, I would set the depth first. It's not very deep, and doable in one pass. Set the depth, place the jig on the pin but not quite all the way down, keep the bit up off the wood, start it up and slowly carefully plunge it in as you set the router down. It might take a trial run on scrap, but if you're carefully it'll work good.


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## fschris




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## kadijk

Nice progress. It's sure alot of work per baffle...5 recesses and 5 cutouts, plus port holes on the rear. Labour intensive...


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## fschris

it is a lot of work !! especially making do with the tools i have. i really need to get a drill guide for my drill i cant drill down straight enough and he level i duct taped to the drill only gives me one axis to level.


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## untuned

If your in a pinch.....gluing one of these to the back of your drill might work for you:dontknow:
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-25573-R...SSDY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1338332982&sr=8-2


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## fschris

I broke down and spent the 30 bucks on a Drill guide.

Tomorrow i am going to chamfer the back of the baffel so the drivers can breath and cut the holes for the tweeters.

I ordered some Binding post from ebay direct from China , haha. They look like the ones at parts express for about 1/4 the price and I needed a lot of them so i saved some money. lets see if I get them.

I plan to run the woofers to a set of binding post and the tweeter to its own binding post, then I will have the crossovers external.


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## fschris

got some work done



















Back side rounded over


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## Jstslamd

Keeping me on my toes. All I want to see is more. Keep it coming !!


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## kadijk

Nice work. It's looking great! Keep it coming. I'm excited for you...


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## PuckDaddy

fschris said:


> I broke down and spent the 30 bucks on a Drill guide.
> 
> Tomorrow i am going to chamfer the back of the baffel so the drivers can breath and cut the holes for the tweeters.
> 
> I ordered some Binding post from ebay direct from China , haha. They look like the ones at parts express for about 1/4 the price and I needed a lot of them so i saved some money. lets see if I get them.
> 
> I plan to run the woofers to a set of binding post and the tweeter to its own binding post, then I will have the crossovers external.


I'm really enjoying watching your build! I'm curious, what is the purpose for rounding the back side of the baffles?

Also, how do you intend to execute your external crossovers?


Thanks, Ken


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## fschris

Rounding the back side baffles allows the driver to breath. I think it is more common in sub woofers with 10-18 inch drivers but I figured it could not hurt but help.

Well I think i may mount the crossovers in a DIY Mini Amp case and just have them sit in the rack with all the other gear.

something like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HiFi-Audio-...884?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c651ccf2c


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## fschris

What size Speaker wire should I use to wire the drivers in Series connection?? 14-GA to small ? Should I be using 10GA? I will have to order some. All i have is 14GA from Monoprice laying around. I am not looking to spend stupid money on wire as I see some being sold for 3-10 bucks per foot!!


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## DeuceTrinal

14 should be fine, it's good to 30+ feet before it limits anything. Inside the enclosure, it's definitely plenty.


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## fschris

I think I will buy a roll of this. 15 bucks seems like a great deal.
http://www.accessories4less.com/mak...SW122-12-AWG-Frosted-Speaker-Wire-50ft/1.html


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## fschris

Trying to decide where to place the Binding post. 

If I want them near the floor I have to Drill through the dividing chamber and seal up with PL. However once I glue up the sides I will not have access to them. I did not want to use a plastic cup style binding post housing. I think they look cheap.

However if I put the binding post in the main cabinet the Baffle will be secured with hex screws therefore I could have access to them only now there would be wires running up the back of the cabinet from the floor.

Any ideas? Should I worry about the non access ? I guess if something broke in the future I could just go into the main cabinet area.


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## kadijk

I hadn't thought too much about what I would do. I think access is more important than avoiding wires up the back. Just in case something doesn't work, I wouldn't want to have to rip the box apart. And cable management isn't that hard to achieve. Sounds like you're getting close...? How are things progressing?


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## Jstslamd

How about a small removable panel in the rear. You could install your xovers in the lower compartment and still have access to everything you need. Finish it off with some sort of some t-nuts and hex head bolts so it looks like you meant to do it.

If you get binding posts for cheap. Install two sets on the inside in the partition panel so that you can wire them up that way instead of having to seal the holes you need to drill to get the wires through.


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## fschris

i am stalled out right now waiting on the binding post.... and I ordered that 50 foot roll of 12 Ga wire.

I need to paint up some scrap MDF with 50/50 tite bond and do some test painting.


If I want to cut open the back and make a panel.... that will be risky as the back is already glued up. I could do it though.


what do you all think about my 2 tone idea. I want to paint the cabinet black and the baffle a very dark red wine color


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## Jstslamd

I love two tone paint schemes. I did my tritrix cherrywood sides and gloss black baffles. I'm still up in the air on my ht system I plan on building next.


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## fschris

I guess I will be doing some more routing !


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## fschris

Got a fair amount of work done this weekend.

Routed out some access into the lower chamber.

Got the side glued onto one of the cabinets.


Its not bad so far for my first tower.


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## fschris

I have some more pics to add


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## kadijk

Looking real good. Nice job on the access panels. That seems like a good solution. Are you making the baffles remove able or fastening them permanently? I'm curious because I've tossed this option back and forth in my mind alot. Still not sure which way I'd go if I was to build these.


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## fschris

They will be removeable


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## Jstslamd

My only hang up about removeable baffled is how to seal them tight with no leaks or vibrations without having a huge piece of gasket material in bettween.


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## maxmercy

Recess the gasket.

JSS


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## kadijk

Agreed. It's tricky. At the same time though, you are dealing with a vented enclosure so a perfect seal isn't really necessary. It's not like a sealed sub woofer where pressure is paramount.


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## fschris

I was going to use probably 8 pretty stout hex bolts per baffle and 1/8" gasket tape. I figured that would be good enough. I am not sure i am can recess that gasket tape.

I mean I can always glue as well make it a lot eaiser.... 

Thoughts? Pro's and Cons. I just that that black hex screw wood look nice.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2001045/863/Bolts-Connector-2.aspx


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## GranteedEV

kadijk said:


> Agreed. It's tricky. At the same time though, you are dealing with a vented enclosure so a perfect seal isn't really necessary. It's not like a sealed sub woofer where pressure is paramount.


Why's that?

I thought helmholtz resonators needed the internal pressure from a perfect seal, in order to resonate correctly.


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## fschris

I know I can seal it....


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## kadijk

GranteedEV said:


> Why's that?
> 
> I thought helmholtz resonators needed the internal pressure from a perfect seal, in order to resonate correctly.


Actually I could be completely wrong and flippant in my thinking. I guess I've always thought that making the remove able baffle seal well was important, but since there are ports, the internal pressure of the box would exert less stress on that joint than if the box was sealed. Big assumption...wrong? If so can you link something I should read so as to be educated? ( not hijacking this thread, just trying to learn)


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## fschris

Added some bracing that will also serve as an anchor for the knock down hardware. They appear to be a bit rough but I will sand them up.


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## megame

How are these going - Haven't heard any updates lately...

But trust me - it will be worth it when it's done...

here's some motivation for you 

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p278/megameadel/ZA55-rs315.jpg


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## fschris

Yes, I live in South Carolina... Its been about 105 degrees. So working in the garage is off limits! I am going to try and do some sanding this weekend early in the morning if we get a PM rain it should cool things down... a tad. 

This is what I was afraid of ... the heat. wish I had an air conditioned shop to work in.


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## 707kevin

megame said:


> How are these going - Haven't heard any updates lately...
> 
> But trust me - it will be worth it when it's done...
> 
> here's some motivation for you
> 
> http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p278/megameadel/ZA55-rs315.jpg


Oh good god those are beautiful!

If I had access to better tools (ANY tools...) I'd redo my entire za5.2, 5.3c and 5.3mtm set. 

I LOVE the 5.3mtm. They have such a smooth natural sound, play loud, and for everyday TV use I don't use a sub anymore. (I'm no bass-head anyways)

I'd love to hear the 5.3tt someday.


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## 707kevin

fschris said:


> Yes, I live in South Carolina... Its been about 105 degrees. So working in the garage is off limits! I am going to try and do some sanding this weekend early in the morning if we get a PM rain it should cool things down... a tad.
> 
> This is what I was afraid of ... the heat. wish I had an air conditioned shop to work in.


If you live in such a humid area with wide temperature swings, make sure that you seal the _inside_ of the cabinets also. MDF is like a sponge.

You're really going to enjoy listening to these if they are anything at all like the MTM's.


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## fschris

i did plain to use some tightbond/water 50/50 to seal the inside as well!

yes it is about 130% humid....


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## fschris

i finally got into the garage this AM. It was overcast and it rained last night. It was humid but only in the 70's. Got a lot of the cabiets sanded.

What do you sugest to seal the ends and fill minor nicks? I see some people suggest Bondo...

I was thinking more like a Min wax or Elmers wood filler... I need something that spreads thin and i can sand ....


After I do that I will cover the inside and outside with a 50/50 tightbond water solutioin I will do a couple coats and then 600 grit sand paper. 

Then I will spray the cabints with that Black Satin Enamel professional spray paint.

I am going to paint the baffle a Wine Red.


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## 707kevin

I've used glazing putty, much softer, comes in a can or tube, spreads easy. Sands MUCH easier than bondo


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## Jstslamd

If you have an automotive paint supplier near you I recommend evercoat metal glaze. It's a very thin polyester body filler.


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## fschris

How easy does it sand?


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## fschris

I have a bunch of this but i guess no one suggest using this stuff...

http://www.elmers.com/product/detail/E849D8?filterPath=wood-filler


Glaze .... ? any links?


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## fschris

think i found it 


http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...hing-glaze/_/N-25u5?itemIdentifier=61774_0_0_

???


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## Jstslamd

http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=1


As far as sanding goes If you put it on thin it'll sand nice. Like anything if you put it in thick it'll be a pain to sand it off.


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## fschris

thanks.. i will get some!


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## Jstslamd

Let me know how you make out.


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## fschris

Okay, How should I plant these things to the floor.

1) I could get spikes.... ALthough not sure I want to spend 60 bucks on them at this point. Plus I would want to double up the bottom MDF if I used the spikes.

2) I could make a base with 45 chamfer and attach to bottom 

???

Any ideas... I kind of want to do something easy // How about rubber grommets with adhesive?


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## Jstslamd

I personally laminated two pieces of 3/4 " mdf together and installed small spikes on the bottom just to get them off of the floor. I love the way it turned out.


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## Jstslamd

Pics


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## fschris

do you think these are big enough?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=240-668

I cant tell in your pics where the spikes are mounted. are they on the cabinets or is the MDF attached to the base of the speaker and the spike is on he floor?


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## Jstslamd

Those are the size spikes I used. The spikes are mounted into the bases and I attached the bases to the actual speaker with a few counter sunk screws. They came out very solid. Just of you do try to laminate two pieces of mdf together don't try to glue two finished pieces. Make them larger and cut them to size when they are dry.


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## fschris

Thanks, I will move ahead!


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## fschris

finally made some good progress


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## fschris

I will need to take some hig res pics...camera phone is bad


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## DrDyna

I love the red, that looks a lot like the red that I used on my ZX Spectrums.

https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/zx-spectrum

Mine are at the bottom.


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## fschris

Wow those look nice DrDyna.


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## fschris

Higher quality Pic.


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## DrDyna

Very cool, red pops out nice. When people visit, they'll always notice.


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## fschris

It is odd how much the camera brightens it up. In person they are a bid subdued but it still pops. The reason I went with the color is my living room has some of the walls painted this color. It will have more WAF!


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## kadijk

Very nice. Exciting to see some progress.


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## fschris

here is a better pic without flash... and here are the bases I made. 2 X 3/4 inch MDF glued up together.


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## DrDyna

That's how I made the tops and bottoms of my stands, it's very strong.


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## Jstslamd

The bases turned out nice !!


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## fschris

I painted the first coat of Rustoleum Professional Enamel... I did the semi gloss and its a bit more glossy than I thought. 

I have some thoughts here to maybe roll on with foam roller the Rustoleum Flat that I used for my sub....

Thinking.... about it. Not sure and I have some obnoxious drip marks in my opinion from when I did the 50/50 tite bond coat. I thought I had sanded them down enough however any imperfection comes right out. 

Any thicker pants to suggest ... maybe switch the the Flat back rattle can spray...


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## Jstslamd

If you have some drips use something flat like a paint mixing stick and some 1000 grit sand paper. Block the drips out and put another nice coat of paint over them. Even I as a painter have to fix some errors mid job. Don't get discouraged.

Pics ?


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## NBPk402

Looks great. How many hours do you think it takes to complete a pair? What level of woodworking do you think would be required to build them?

tia,
Ron


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## kadijk

Drips can be frustrating. I agree. I use a chisel sometimes, and take them right down to the wood. It adds a bit more work but I find it's the only way to make them disappear. Good to hear you're still making headway, though. Keep up the good work. You'll get there, and then you'll be in sonic heaven.


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## fschris

please take a look at this sketch for my xover network. I also emailed Madisound. Just to make sure I do not blow anything up! The X-overs came over pre built in 2 parts. one xover for the tweeter and one for the mains per cabinet.


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## fschris

ellisr63 said:


> Looks great. How many hours do you think it takes to complete a pair? What level of woodworking do you think would be required to build them?
> 
> tia,
> Ron


it has taken a while, I did not keep track. I have very little experience. I have never built a pair of towers. I have little experience with using power tools, routers, tables saws etc. my tools are not great but I got it done the best I could. 

My only stab at this was building 2 subs that I documented on another forum. a set of clone MFW-15's.

2 things that would help... that I will buy for the next build is a plunge router with better dust collection and a I need a table saw with a better fence system.


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## DrDyna

The crossover sketch looks fine. A little strange that it's separated, but meh.


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## fschris

I just repainted the front Baffle. After I sprayed some satin clear coast (Valspar). I noticed some milky white areas. I sprayed them flat on the work bench and wonder if this has something to do with it. They did not look good enough to me.

I waited a week and sanded the clear coat off. Then repainted. Not sure I want to spray that stuff again. Maybe I need to hang them from a hook and spray.


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## fschris

also I sprayed both cabinets with one coat of the rustoleum enamel. I think I am going to sand them and paint them with a foam roller using the rustoleum enamel paint. My though is the orange peel effect from rolling will hide minor blemishes. The spray is just to exact at pointing out flaws.


Thoughts ??


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## Jstslamd

If you want that flatness without the defects you could block all sides that were painted with some 800 grit sandpaper to smooth them out. Ten shoot color and clear back on them. That should remove all defects. Also don't be too critical about small defect that you can see under fluorescent lighting as it magnifies blemishes. When you get them into natural light and things are low to the ground you won't see them unless your in licking distance. As far as the white spots go is it where you had smoothed out runs that you seen these spots ? Also if your using rustoleum gloss enamel it doesnt really require a clear coat.


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## fschris

just to be clear... no pun intended. I was trying to clear coat the baffle that I painted with Valspar interior latex. I don't even think I need to clear coast it. Paint like that is already pretty tough and I got it with a satin finish.

I just don't want to spray them again and get that rough milky white stuff showing up on them. you think it would be dummy proof!!


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## fschris

okay I did some research... I think when I sprayed them it was too humid. I am in SC!! Working in my garage.... and I probably over sprayed. I need to do a lot les each time I apply. I used about 1/2 the can in one shot. dumb.


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## DrDyna

How are these coming along? Did you manage to get the paint sorted out? I'm curious to see how these turn out when they're all finished.


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## fschris

I will tell you all here my thoughts. I would not spray a large cabinet again with rattle cans. I almost want to sand the things with 400 and roll the rustoleum enamel on like I did with my subs. 

The spray is awesome, however in a large application its not easy. It does set up with a 'hard' solid shell look that you would get from a factory but its not easy.

I have some minor issues with the last coats I did today and I am trying to decided if I will fix them by sanding out again and re doing. I will probably live with it. This won't be the last set I build!

I could always build some new cabinets for these in a year or sooner. I have some ideas. anyway I will get some more pics posted sunday.

I have all the wiring soldered with the connectors as needed. I had to set them up so the lower 2 drivers and upper 2 drivers are soldered in series. then they connect to 2 different points on the cross over network. then there is a network for the tweeter.

I used all 12 Ga wire from accessories 4 less. It looks really nice and the price was good. Not ultra expensive.

http://www.accessories4less.com/mak...SW122-12-AWG-Frosted-Speaker-Wire-50ft/1.html


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## fschris

Here are some pics from today


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## kadijk

Oh man! Looking good! I've finished my current project and you're making me want to get started on another. I can't wait for you to give some descriptions and impressions of those. They've been on my radar for a couple years now.


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## fschris

I will need to get a MIC and learn how to use REW...


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## DrDyna

fschris said:


> I will need to get a MIC and learn how to use REW...



I've got an EMM-6 with a Blue Icicle usb preamp and it seems to work well. REW is pretty easy to grasp once you tinker with it for a couple of hours.


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## fschris

Okay, So I wet sanded both again and did another coat and they are next to near perfect now! I am an expert on that Spray paint now after about 12 extra tall cans!!


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## Jstslamd

Glad to see you stuck with it. Remember prep before paint is everything!


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## fschris

That paint is pretty amazing finish. 

Well Tomorrow I need to glue the ports in and I need to get the base on the other speaker.

I should be buttoning these up soon.


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## NBPk402

Looks great!


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## Jstslamd

What sheen did you use semi gloss ?


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## ovillegas

Looking good!


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## domwilson

Good Job!


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## fschris

Yes, Semi gloss. I can not imagine how glossy " Gloss" would be.


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## fschris

How about a drum Roll...

I had a marathon day. Got everything together.

Even got to give them a test listen but it was getting really late when I hooked up.

but they DID WORK!!!!!!!!


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## fschris

Here are some pics....






































Hope you all liked my first major build... ever.

No real skills, had never really used a router on this scale.

Never used knock down hardware.

Never built something this big.

Made lots of mistakes. Fixed lots of mistake.

Now I hope I can break them in and use REW to do some testing.

I still have not even opened up the Emotiva XPA 3 that will power these. I just used my carver AV505 this evening. (which I will be selling) !


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## Jstslamd

Very nice! We all make mistakes this build was not one for them for you my friend.


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## DrDyna

Beautiful work for a first project especially. Looking forward to seeing some of your REW results.


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## nottaway

Nice work!:T


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## Todd Anderson

Wow, man. Those are HOT:jump::jump:


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## Cyberfloatie

Nicely done! I look forward to pics of them installed and your listening impressions soon after!


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## GranteedEV

They look awesome. How do they sound?


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## fschris

So far so good.... The music sounds Soooooooooo much better. I was using one of those little take Energy 5.1 systems... http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Classic-Theater-System-Black/dp/B001202C44

So... needless to say things are sounding pretty amazing to me. I still need to fit them into my living area. Move some stuff around.

I found my emotiva XPA3 hangs out of my media cabinet that my plasma is on. I need to do something about this. I had bought an extra deep one as well for my HTPC...


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## domwilson

Very Nicely done!


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## DrDyna

fschris said:


> So far so good.... The music sounds Soooooooooo much better. I was using one of those little take Energy 5.1 systems... http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Classic-Theater-System-Black/dp/B001202C44
> 
> So... needless to say things are sounding pretty amazing to me. I still need to fit them into my living area. Move some stuff around.
> 
> I found my emotiva XPA3 hangs out of my media cabinet that my plasma is on. I need to do something about this. I had bought an extra deep one as well for my HTPC...


Wow, that's quite an upgrade!

My old receiver didn't quite fit on my cabinet, I ended up pulling the cabinet out a little and letting it hang out the back


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## kadijk

Glad to hear they sound good! You've done a great job on a fairly complex project. They look great, and will be something you can show off for years. Beautiful job!


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## fschris

Going to order the KIT to build the center channel... Wife.. will not be happy....


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## Jstslamd

Haha. Buy her a new purse shell forget all about it.


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## fschris

Here are some setup pics.........


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## ovillegas

fschris said:


> Here are some setup pics.........


Awesome job!! It makes me want to start my project. Also makes me jealous


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## Jstslamd

So when are you starting the center channel build ?


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## fschris

soon... maybe I should let my wife give birth to the first child ( 7 weeks to go)

I would like to build this center channel so my Plasma can sit on it... does that sound crazy?

I need to save space here. you saw my set up.


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## Jstslamd

It doesn't seem too crazy. You could definetly find a way to integrate it. If not you could always hang the tv on the wall and leave the stand before the tv and sit the cc on there.


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