# Crossover Questions



## chappi4u (Mar 9, 2013)

Would like to pursue active biamping of RF and LF; however, am a newbie and not sure how to take internal crossover out of the equation and then connect external crossover. Am including an image of internal crossover connections. Would also appreciate suggestions for external crossover that doesn't cost an arm and leg as amp, processor and speakers have already exceeded budget. Any help with this will be very much appreciated.


----------



## prerich (Mar 26, 2008)

chappi4u said:


> Would like to pursue active biamping of RF and LF; however, am a newbie and not sure how to take internal crossover out of the equation and then connect external crossover. Am including an image of internal crossover connections. Would also appreciate suggestions for external crossover that doesn't cost an arm and leg as amp, processor and speakers have already exceeded budget. Any help with this will be very much appreciated.


What you are asking to do generally cost money :spend:!!! You will need 2 amps for each speaker. The amps will connect directly to each speaker at the terminal and the speaker will connect directly to their respective terminals (however - in your case ...looking at that crossover - you would need to keep the MID/TWEET crossover intact - some one correct me if I'm wrong - I'm not the expert, just giving an opinion based on what I'm seeing  ). Your active crossover would be a 2 way model between your amp and your processor. As you can tell - this is not a cheap thing to do.


----------



## chappi4u (Mar 9, 2013)

Thank you for your response. What I'm asking is where the internal crossover should be removed (disconnected) from this speaker and how the amps are then connected to the speaker crossover wiring depicted in attached pdf. I think I understand active biamping.

My thinking is: disconnect internal crossover at music posts and then connect amps to speaker music posts. I understand the external crossover is connected to the pre outs and to amps in, then amps out to speakers mid/twtr and woofer.

I will still need to figure out room correction, perhaps with REQ and miniDSP + plug-in. Having a fair amount of confusion with this also. But, I'm like a dog with a bone!

Thank you so much for helping me - I need it!


----------



## jtalden (Mar 12, 2009)

The labeling of the schematic is a little confusing. If the binding post are the 2 sets on the top left there should normally be a jumper strap connecting the 2 together for single amp usage. The strap would then be removed to allow passive biamping the MR/TW section and W section. If this is the scheme then the method to allow active biamping can be easily done a couple of ways. Of course, the jumper is removed for both methods! The easiest wiring change would appear to be one of the following ways. Both ways involve disabling the 333 turn coil from the circuit. 

> A jumper can be placed from the lower right terminal post to the upper right terminal post (The 2 posts the 333 turn coil is attached to. This effectively shorts out the coil.

or

> The "black" wire (Woofer -) from the lower right terminal post can be removed and reconnected to the upper right terminal post. This leaves the coil "open".

I put a red circle over the 2 terminal posts to identify them in the figure below.

In both cases the 333 turn coil will no longer be active. it can be left connected or disconnected from those same binding posts. It should not make a difference.

I strongly suggest you contact the speaker manufacturer for confirmation. This is provided to help your understanding of what may be involved, but the risk of any damage is entirely yours if you try it.


----------



## chappi4u (Mar 9, 2013)

Thanks!


----------

