# Modula M/T's under construction



## chasw98 (Apr 20, 2006)

I have built and posted some pictures of the other loudspeakers I have built. There is a method to my madness. They will all use the Seas H1212 tweeter. They will all have Oak veneer stained with sedona red minwax stain, and they will al have the front vertical edges rounded. Here is the beginning of my 4 Modula M/T surround loudspeakers.


















Chuck


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## chasw98 (Apr 20, 2006)

Here is some further progress I made today.


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## chasw98 (Apr 20, 2006)

And here is as far as I have gotten tonight. I actually got one speaker far enough along to test it with music and it sounds pretty **** good for a little old 2 way!


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## Exocer (Apr 19, 2006)

Lookin' good Chas. If you don't mind my asking, what kind of acoustic stuffing is that?

Eventually my goal is to build just a pair of Modula MT's (Rs28a version to match the Nat P's) and possibly Chris's MTM center, partial BSC for top of TV placement.


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## chasw98 (Apr 20, 2006)

Exocer said:


> If you don't mind my asking, what kind of acoustic stuffing is that?



It is 2" wedge foam from http://www.foamandupholstery.com/wedge_foam_tiles___sheets.htm#4. It's only $8.96 for a 24 X 48 sheet and has a pretty good NRC rating. Here is a shot of the M/T with the veneer on waiting to be stained and made pretty. Now I only have to make 3 more of these!


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## JCD (Apr 20, 2006)

Wow, that looks awesome. Seriously mad skillz on the enclosure! :hail: 

Also, I'm sorry if I missed it, but what design did you use? Or was this your own design?

JCD


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## chasw98 (Apr 20, 2006)

A very smart and talented man named Jon Marsh came up with the design. You can read about it here http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=13154.


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## Exocer (Apr 19, 2006)

The end result looks almost identical to Red Oak.


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

Wow Chuck... you guys continue to amaze me how you put together these speakers and make them look so good.


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## chasw98 (Apr 20, 2006)

Thanks Sonnie, but I know where every mistake is. My wife says it is beautiful and I tell her about the scratch on the bottom of the speaker that is a half inch long! Now, if I did it over, I would do it this wayyyyy............


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## chasw98 (Apr 20, 2006)

Here they are, 90% finished and in place.


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## F1 fan (Jul 6, 2006)

Impressive!Chuck those look great.In conjunction with your mains and centre channel that is one **** of a surround system you have put together.

BTW were did you score those ceiling mount brackets.


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## chasw98 (Apr 20, 2006)

Thanks, Fred. Those are Omni Mounts Pro Studio Mounts http://www.racksandstands.com/OmniMount-30.0-CA-Series-OM0015.html . They are little more expensive than the ordinary mounts but they are rated for 30 pounds and will hold a speaker in any position you get in and not move.


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## Sonnie (Apr 11, 2006)

Yep... those are super nice... very well done!


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## dynamowhum (Oct 3, 2006)

Great work as usual Chuck. I really like how you take care of the small details with such care.


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## chasw98 (Apr 20, 2006)

dynamowhum said:


> Great work as usual Chuck. I really like how you take care of the small details with such care.



Thank you. I appreciate it. I have just stained and painted the speakers for now, but I just acquired a HVLP sprayer. I am going to use that to apply the polyurethane or crystalac or whatever I come up with to apply the final finish to them shortly.


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## southworth (Oct 7, 2006)

Chuck,
Did you build your Modula's with a 1" or a 3/4" front baffle?


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## chasw98 (Apr 20, 2006)

southworth said:


> Chuck,
> Did you build your Modula's with a 1" or a 3/4" front baffle?


3/4" front baffle.


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## dynamowhum (Oct 3, 2006)

Hey Chas what do you use to cut out for the tweeters side posts?


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## chasw98 (Apr 20, 2006)

dynamowhum said:


> Hey Chas what do you use to cut out for the tweeters side posts?


VERY CAREFULLY! Freehand with a router. I will draw some guidelines after I have routed out the mounting surface and the hole for the tweeter to fit through. Then I just draw a center line across the tweeter cutout, from the centerline I allow 3/8" on either side of the line and mark it. Then I just freehand. The side post cutouts will never be seen so if it is not the prettiest, it won't show.


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## dynamowhum (Oct 3, 2006)

Chas I would not try and free hand with my router. It is a PC 7529 and I would be to clumsy with it. Last time before I routed anything I tried drilling 1/2" holes where I thought the through holes center line would be. I worked but not as nicely as I would have liked. I had to cope a little to get it right. Cheers.


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## chasw98 (Apr 20, 2006)

dynamowhum said:


> Chas I would not try and free hand with my router. It is a PC 7529 and I would be to clumsy with it. Last time before I routed anything I tried drilling 1/2" holes where I thought the through holes center line would be. I worked but not as nicely as I would have liked. I had to cope a little to get it right. Cheers.



I tried pre drilling the holes also and just never got good results. Practice on scrap wood with freehanding. I always go very, very slow so the router does not take over and slip away. I also only route off small bits at a time so it takes a little while.


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## dynamowhum (Oct 3, 2006)

Did you use the 1/4" upspiral bit for this? I might try this with a roto zip though.


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## chasw98 (Apr 20, 2006)

Yes, a 1/4" up spiral. Roto zip would probably work well. Just keep it straight up and down.


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## southworth (Oct 7, 2006)

Chuck,
Did you use a 3/4" roundover bit on your front baffle?


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## chasw98 (Apr 20, 2006)

Sure did. The one thing to watch out for when using a 3/4" roundover is to put a piece of "blocking" wood at the end of the speaker that will be the last part to run up against the router. I learned the hard way that MDF will "blow" out the end if it is left on its own. By putting a piece of wood over the end, the scrap piece at the end blows out and the actual project doesn't. HTH.

Chuck


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## kano32 (Sep 14, 2006)

Nice job.

I am building the Modula MT's for a friend's husband. He is going to use them in his recording studio. I have the crossovers built and tested but it's 9 degrees outside and my shop isn't heated so cutting mdf really stinks right now. I have the front baffle cut and I am shocked at how big the speaker is. It doen't look that big when you see pictures of them.


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## chasw98 (Apr 20, 2006)

Wait till you're finished and pick them up. They have some weight to them!


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## Guest (Nov 16, 2006)

Hey Chuck, is your roundover bit 3/4" radius or 3/4" cutting length? I get parts for the Modula MT tomorrow (RS28A-4 version) and want to get a roundover that I can use for rounding port holes *and* general stuff like baffles.

Part Number 
whiteside 2004

Radius 
1/2"

Large Diameter 
1 1/2"	

Cutting Length 
3/4"


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## chasw98 (Apr 20, 2006)

southworth said:


> Chuck,
> Did you use a 3/4" roundover bit on your front baffle?


Yes, I used a 3/4" roundover router bit with the bearing on it. One note of caution. If you are building the cabinets out of MDF, I have found that when you get to the end of the cabinet with the router just before you are finished with the roundover, the end will "blow out" because of the way MDF is made. I learned the hard way and had to patch a corner. I found that if you clamp a block of scrap wood to the end of the cabinet and then use the roundover, you will blow out the scrap wood and not the actual cabinet! Tough lesson for me, I was p!ssed.

Chuck

My latest effort:


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